Fragrance Reviews

Fragrance Reviews by Gerald

Showing all 68 reviews

Calypso Marine by Calypso Christiane Celle

One of the more unusual yet easy to wear "ocean" fragrances with an ozonic, almost aldehydic top and a heady floral heart. Although perfect for hot summer days, this is far from being watery. It evokes immediately pictures of a hot, sunny day near the sea, but not at the beach (no reminders suntanning lotion like 'Fire Island'), but on the terrace of a nice resort, sipping cocktails. It shares some similarities with Profumum's 'Acqua di Sale'. Great.
09 September 2008

Chembur by Byredo

A very pale, somewhat watery incense scent for everyone who finds Bois d'Encens or any of the CdG incenses too strong and offensive. Almost zero sillage and very modest longevity. A big disappointment compared to the other partly beautiful fragrances in this line.
07 August 2008

Violette Madame by Guerlain

It's called 'Voilette (= veil) de Madame' actually, and Guerlain offers it as a limited vintage edition in their Champs Elysées flagship store for a hefty price. It comes in its original beautiful snail-shaped crystal flacon (also Mouchoir de Monsieur is available in the snail bottle, but the juice is the same as the 'regular', widely available Mouchoir) and was originally created for J. Guerlain's marriage. Voilette for the bride, Mouchoir for the fiancé.

With this romantic story in mind, one should assume Voilette de Madame was an utterly feminine, soft and cosy fragrance. Well, it is not.

VdM starts with an aldehydic, powdery burst of green leaves. Sharp, grassy and only with only a hint of flowers: iris, ylang-ylang, narcissus, violet. The drydown is very animalic (civet?) on a sandalwood base. It is a dry, musty, dirty fragrance and despite its name you also Monsieur can get by with it. There are some similarities to Miller Harris' L'Air de Rien, but VdM is more complex and much more fascinating.
Stunning, but not everybody's cup of tea.
06 June 2007

Rose Barbare by Guerlain

One of the most beautiful rose scents I know. The aldehydes and the chypre base create a sparkling green, fresh, almost cool aura, while the mentioned honey accord stays in the background (at least on my skin). In its development, it gains a certain warmth, but never loses that refined, dewy touch. It's only moderately sweet and never gets cloying. Rose Barbare could be Rose de Nuit's bright and sunny counterpart.
21 May 2007

No. 68 by Guerlain

Cologne N°68 was created in 2006 on the occasion of the reopening of Guerlain's flagship store on Champs-Elysees 68 (I don't know if it's identical with the 2000 version in the directory). It's a unique take on the classic Eau de Cologene theme: it starts fresh and fruity (tangerine, lemon, bergamot), then turns quickly into a spicy compound with star anise, loads of cardamom, coriandre and pepper and finally dries down to a soft, woody base with a slightly musty touch. N°68's spectrum is remarkable: while it starts like a dressed-up Cologne Impérial, it ends like a distantly relative to Dior's Bois d'Argent. Truly exceptional, if you don't judge it from the first few minutes but wait until it has fully developed. Definitely unisex, comes in a huge (and very classy) 490 ml bottle and is only available in selected selling points (e.g. the Paris flagship store).
21 May 2007

Voleur de Ciels by Stéphanie de Saint-Aignan

Voleur de Ciels (sky thief) is one of the masculine-labeled fragrances in Stephanie de Saint-Aignan's line (but I find it absolutely suitable for a woman as well). It's a quite unusual chypre that starts fresh and spicy with notes of mint and jasmine, followed by anise and a leather note. Finally, a Patchouli accord unfolds. The fragrance is refreshing and cool with a metallic tone at first; later, when the spices and the patchouli come out, it gets increasingly glowing and warm. A unique composition that combines traditional ingredients of classic men's colognes with innovative elements. Long-lasting, with powerful sillage. A winner.
21 May 2007

No. 22 by Chanel

I never cared much about N°22, but now, after having tried the classic version and the slightly reformulated 'Les Exclusifs' version, I see what I've missed. An effervescent, intriguing, powdery-green fragrance with a wonderful incensey drydown. The only aldehyde powerhouse that I find totally wearable for a man.
The topnotes are very fresh and green, almost a bit pungent. Shortly after, the floral accents strengthen and dominate the heart phase. By and by, the incense enters the stage and begins to play the lead.
The old and the new versions of N°22 are twins, of course, but indeed there are differences, mainly the higher dose of incense in the new version (which I like better). Besides, the new N°22 is a bit less sweet.
A must-try, also for the guys.
16 May 2007

Gendarme Green by Gendarme

Green is an exquisite combination of citrus, herbs and the Gendarme-characteristic white musk base. Like all gendarme fragrances, it stays relatively close to your skin (though it has a significantly stronger sillage factor than the classic Gendarme or Gendarme V), and lasts for many hours.
The topnote is a somehow flashy citric mixture (lemon, verbena, bergamot) with a saccharine undertone. It quickly melts down to a soft and cool heart (cucumber, basil, some thymes) that justifies the juice's name: indeed, it smells green. The crisp, clean basenote rounds the whole composition off. All in all, just perfect for spring and summer.
I don't like the cheap-looking aluminium bottle, but after all, it's the fragrance that counts.
After Grabazzi, this is my secondary favourite in the Gendarme line.
16 May 2007

Story by Paul Smith

A very agreeable green musk / vetiver scent. Soft, round and fresh; suitable for any opportunity. Akin to KenzoAir, but without the latter's anise note, and with better longevity. Paul Smith's best fragrance so far.
15 May 2007

Sous Le Vent by Guerlain

This fragrance starts ultra-green and crisp, almost harsh and slightly bitter. You get the smell of leaves crushed in your hand and there's not the slightest touch of sweetness in it. After some time, flowery accords enter the stage, above all green jasmine, accompanied by some spices - mainly clove - that prepare the ground for a warm and spicy drydown.
Sous le Vent lasts quite long though it stays close to your skin. The 2006 version comes in EdT concentration, and though I'd wish they'd launch an EdP, it's perfect for hot summer days.
It's marketed as a female fragrance, but I find it decidedly more on the masculine side.
11 May 2007

parfums*PARFUMS Series 1 Leaves: Lily by Comme des Garçons

Excellent. The calmness and cleanness of white lilies is projected into a pure and almost minimalistic fragrance. Floral, green, no sweetness at all. The ultimate lily fragrance for all floral aficionados, and suitable for women and men.
22 February 2007

Wedding Bouquet by Anglia Perfumery

An almost photorealistic olfactory copy of an opulent bunch of flowers. Freshly cut white flowers and fresh green notes, with only a touch of sweet honey. Very linear, which isn't necessarily a bad thing for a fragrance that wants to reproduce reality.
22 February 2007

Jour de Fête by L'Artisan Parfumeur

A nice, light, fresh almond scent with a hint of vanilla, not too sweet and not cloying. Quite linear. Unisex, leaning a bit more on the feminine side, but can be weared easily by a man. More a skin-scent type of fragrance with zero longevity - doesn't last longer than an hour on my skin.
20 February 2007

Vetiver by Etro

Wet, earthy, strong and linear. Ultra-dry and merciless with not the slightest lucency (by citrus or - like Route du Vetiver - fruity notes). This one is for real hardcore vetiver enthusiasts. Unfortunately, not for me.
20 February 2007

Parfums des Beaux Arts Cimabue by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

Cimabue is a saffron-centered fragrance and contains a plethora of ingredients, such as bergamot, orange, cardamom, neroli, lemon, carnation, honey, cinnamon, cloves, jasmine, sandalwood, saffron, tuberose, ciste, labdanum, opoponax, vanilla and much more. The result is a surprisingly harmonic scent that reminds me of gingerbread and christmas pastry (well, cinnamon, cloves and honey say it all). Sweet, but not cloying, this is a nice mood-lifter for cold winter evenings.
20 February 2007

Sécrétions Magnifiques by Etat Libre d'Orange

I don't get any resemblance to body fluids. In its first stage, this fragrance reminds me of the milky, green, slightly pungent aroma you get when you cut dandelion stems. And there's a metallic, ozonic note. Not even bad in the beginning, if you like grassy scents. But after some time it turns to something rotten... a bit like foul flower water mixed with sour milk and dishwashing detergent. At this stage at the latest I had to wash it off, but due to its enourmous staying power I clearly detected it even many hours later. Which can be a good thing. But not with Secretions Magnifiques.
20 February 2007

Jasmin et Cigarette by Etat Libre d'Orange

This fragrance is unique without being weird. The combination of tobacco and jasmine is surprisingly harmonic and comforting; the two main accords are well-balanced and equally present from the top to the base. The tobacco doesn't remind me of smoke (as in Tea for Two), but more of unsmoked cigars (as in Tabarome). Not very complex, but well constructed and with decent staying power. Perfectly suitable for a man or a women.
20 February 2007

Rien by Etat Libre d'Orange

Rien isn't "rien" at all. It's a rich, dark, distinctive fragrance that starts with a soft, warm balsamic leather note (slightly resembling of Cuir Ottoman)and a hint of iris. The patchouli accord is sweet and light and never gets into the foreground. After some time, Rien gets harsher with a somehow mineral, graphite-like touch: incense, cumin and pepper notes gain dominance and remain noticeable during the whole drydown.
Rien may be an interesting choice for all leather & spice lovers and is (in opposite to some other fragrances of this house) definitely wearable. Striking sillage and longevity - use it sparingly!
20 February 2007

Dzongkha by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Dzongkha actually seems to be a relative to Passage d'Enfer at first; both imply a dry incense note and an almost spiritual character. But while PdE gets brighter due to the lily accord, Dzongkha becomes more and more mysterious and sublime. The iris note begins to come to the foreground and gives a certain coolness to the whole composition, but the spices keep it from getting too cold. Iris root still is the predominant note in Dzongkha. An awesome scent from L'Artisan, with good sillage (without ever being overpowering) and decent longevity. It develops very differently on different skin types, so test before you buy.
19 January 2007

Antico Caruso by Profumum

Antico Caruso is quite heavy, rich, sweet and powdery and not at all a shy or subtle fragrance. It starts with a sharp, loud citrus-sugary intro, then the sweet notes (almond, a touch of vanilla) unfold, giving the whole composition a soft and cuddly character. The drydown is the best stage of development: sandalwood and a powdery accord create an elegant, classy aroma. Antico Caruso actually reminds of old barbershops due to the mixture of soap, talc and citrus cologne. It bears a certain resemblance to Prada Amber, but seems more refined to me. Maximum sillage and staying power - beware of overapplying. I like it, but it's a tad too sweet to really love it.
19 January 2007

Acqua di Sale by Profumum

Like some other Profumum fragrances, this one starts with a heavy, blatant mess: cold, metallic, sharp and somehow perfumey. But within a few minutes the squaller calms down and unfolds a wonderful array of notes reminding of a sea breeze: salt, algaes, cedarwood, myrtle and a mellow fruity accord. Although the scent gets more subtle by and by, it has some decent longevity and sillage. An interesting olfactory interpretation of a sunny seaside scenery, avoiding tanning oil associations (CB - at the Beach, Bond No 9 - Fire Island) but more geared to the marine flora (salt, sand, seaside plants) with certain similarities to Calypso Marine. An enchanting, distinctive spring or summer fragrance.
19 January 2007

Après L'ondée by Guerlain

Another very versatile classic Guerlain suitable for women and men. The combination of aniseed in the top with hawthorne in the heart creates a cool, relaxed atmosphere; the warm iris basenote retains it from being too airy or fresh. Subtle, yet long-lasting. Pure class.
19 January 2007

Lux by Mona di Orio

This is one of the most surprising scents I've ever tried. It starts with a citrus overdose, fresh, bitter and sharp, reminding me of FM's Bigarade Concentree. But it doesn't vanish or get watery-airy like most citrus fragrances. It gets darker and deeper an develops to a full, rich ambery scent with some 'dirty' hints (musk and labdanum). The citrus accords stay perceivable all the time, also during the drydown, even if they retrench more and more into the background. A distinctive, extraordinary yet very versatile fragrance. Great!
21 October 2006

Tubérose Indiana by Creed

Tubereuse Indiana doesn't work at all with me. It's a thick, greasy, sweet fragrance that smells extremely synthetic on me. I don't find it fresh at all, but very cloying and quite linear. Maybe it's my chemistry, but this is simply unwearable for me.
29 August 2006

Préparation Parfumée by Andrée Putnam

A very versatile, well-made, uplifting fragrance with notes of pepper, water lily, coriander and a soft woody drydown. It's translucent, but clearly detectable. Whenever I smell it, I associate it with a scenery of ample trees around a mountain lake. It's cool, green and leafy - somehow similar to L'Artisan's Navegar. No big sillage, but lasting close to your skin for several hours.
29 August 2006

Alamut by Lorenzo Villoresi

Alamut is an opulent, rich, luscious fragrance. It's a bright oriental with flowers, spices and a soft animalic, voluptuous undertone. Notes: Osmanthus, rose, jasmine, rosewood, narcissus, tuberose, lang ylang, neroli, labdanum, amber, musk, sandalwood, patchouli, leather and aldehydic notes. In the topnotes, I find some similarities with Alexander McQueen's Kingdom - the lushness, the rose accord, the slightly acrid animalic notes. Then it starts to brighten up, the powdery accords melt into the flowery notes, the musk gets stronger and the whole scent gets cleaner during the drydown. All in all, one of the best Villoresis I've ever smelled. Not too sweet, not cloying, and the EdT can easily be weared by a man (there's also EdP and pure perfume which I haven't tried). It works best with evenings or with cooler temperatures.
02 August 2006

parfums*PARFUMS Guerrilla 1 by Comme des Garçons

This one starts slightly musty and dark and resembles of CdG's Odeur 71 sprayed on some old cardboard. Not bad, but very synthetic and sharp; I don't get much of the pear and the saffron in the topnote. It takes some time until this fragrance lightens up and reveals its fruity peach note, joined by a subtle floral accord (the Champaca?). The base is dominated by soft musk and some woods, I don't get much of the Vetiver. It has not too much sillage and stays quite close to your skin, but it lasts quite long. Maybe not one of the most unusual CdGs, but a nevertheless interesting and very wearable one.
01 August 2006

Une Fleur de Cassie by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Think of a walk through a park on an early morning in late september, when the air gets cooler and there's this fine mist on the last green leaves. That's my main impression of Une Fleur de Cassie, which is a unique combination of notes: it's powdery, green, soft, cool, melancholic and calming at the same time. It seems to be full of contradictions, and maybe that's the reason why it polarizes that much. Personally, I love it. I like its matt green vibrancy and its dim chlorophyllic character. The lack of sweetness makes it a bit easier to wear than its near relative Iris Poudre (which I also appreciate very much). Maybe its name is misleading: don't expect flowery freshness or cheerfulness - Une Fleur de Cassie is far from being a happy spring scent, but it's a grand, slightly aloof love-or-hate fragrance.
31 July 2006

Tubéreuse Criminelle by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

I've heard much about this one, especially about its topnotes. Gasoline. Rubber. Menthol. Asphalt. Anyway, I ordered a bottle... and: everything is true. The weirdest topnotes I've ever smelled. Imagine you're filling the tank of your truck at a shabby petrol station... the smell of burnt rubber, hot asphalt and gasoline all around... in your truck you have one of those cheap air refresheners that smell of spearmint mouthwash. That's how Tubereuse Criminelle starts. Now I understand why it's called "criminelle" - it has a dark, strange character. Just shocking. But then the tuberose breaks through. It pushes the strange odor of gasoline away and you get the irradiance of an incredibly beautiful floral scent. The tuberose in here is powerful, but not creamy and damp - it's bright, juicy, uplifting and refreshing. Truly wonderful - and the only tuberose-centered fragrance beside Carnal Flower that's totally suitable for women and men.
For sure, a somehow eccentric scent, but totally addictive and at least worth a try. Normally, I wouldn't give "thumbs up" for a fragrance with these awful topnotes, but the heart and the base make good for the beginning. A masterpiece.
26 July 2006

Virgilio by Diptyque

The greenest scent I've ever smelled. Basil, herbs, cedar and not the slightest hint of sweetness. Not very complex and not much of a development, but long-lasting, fresh and very distinctive. One of the best fragrances Diptyque has ever made.
08 June 2006

Central Park by Bond No. 9

I like it. It's a very refreshing, green scent that starts a bit sharp due to a harsh, even synthetic verbena accord. I don't detect any basil in the top notes. But after some minutes it calms down and the floral accords begin to develop and the scent now gets really good. Clean and fresh with a herbal twist (basil?) that makes it somehow interesting . The drydown is dominated by cedar notes. I can't find any hint of patchouli or musk. All in all, a well-made, refreshing summer scent with some sillage and good longevity.
22 June 2006

Cyprès-Musc by Creed

One of the best Creeds IMO. Starts fresh and sparkling, then calms down to a soft, deep, relaxing fragrance. There's a perfect balance of the fresh, green notes and the musk: it's green, but not sharp; it's musky, but not sweet. A timeless masterpiece, suitable for any occasion and with surprisingly good longevity.
02 June 2006

Sel de Vetiver by Different Company

A stunning vetiver fragrance! It starts dark, cool, raw and a bit salty. You smell notes of pure vetiver and a hint of patchouli and cardamom. Later, it develops a soft, smooth character with geranium, iris and ylang-ylang. Very refined, very masculine. While MPG's awesome Route du Vetiver blends vetiver with fruits, TDC creates a wonderful composition of vetiver and flowers. Not as sweet as SL's Vetyver Oriental and not as harsh as Villoresi's Vetiver, this one settles somewhere in the middle. A perfect choice for vetiver lovers who want a distinctive, deep but mellow vetiver scent.
29 April 2006

Aubépine-Acacia by Creed

Aubépine Acacia was a real surprise for me, because I didn't expect more than some kind of sweet average citrus scent. In fact, this is a perfect fragrance for men and women, some female friends of mine even found it much too masculine to wear it themselves. It's not overly sweet and a very special, distinctive citrus fragrance with floral accords. The lemon notes are quite dominant, but in the background there's a calming note of hawthorne and the smooth, slightly balsamic acacia note. Staying power is surprisingly good for a citrus scent (especially for a Creed...). For me, this is one of the hidden stars within the Creed line and will be my signature scent for the next summer.
28 April 2006

Carnal Flower by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

A very clean and fresh interpretation of tuberose, and very wearable for men. Starts citrusy-spicy, then the tuberose appears and develops a smooth dominance; in the drydown a hint of musk. Quite linear, no surprising developments, just a very well-done, cool and sophisticated soliflore. Quite subtle, no big sillage, but it stays forever - detecteable even many hours after applying.
23 March 2006

Baraja by Acqua di Biella

Finally, I couldn't resist and purchased a bottle of Baraja even if I worried about its lasting power. Now, I got addicted to this scent. It really smells a bit like fabric softener (in a positive way), very clean, fresh, slightly fruity. And it lasts surprisingly long on me. It stays very close to my skin, compareable to the Gendarme fragrances, but I can detect it even after several hours. A feel-good scent suitable for any occasion.
11 March 2006

Voleur de Roses by L'Artisan Parfumeur

It took some time until I learned to love this fragrance. The top notes are dominated by a strong, almost cloying Patchouli note. But after a few minutes it develops to something wonderful. Deep, earthy, fruit accords and woods are masterly composed to an awesome, relaxing scent. I don't get much rose here. It's more woody / fruity than floral.
08 March 2006

Ambre Extrême by L'Artisan Parfumeur

A warm, soft, cozy fragrance, perfect for winter and cooler evenings. While L'Eau d'Ambre is sharp, medicinal and synthetic, Ambre Extreme is much better balanced and has a calming effect. Although it's very deep and long lasting, it isn't cloying at all.
08 March 2006

Safran Troublant by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Wow, that's a wonderful saffron fragrance! A very sophisticated, elegant fragrance suitable for any occasion and season. Slightly sweet but not at all cloying. Stays very close to your skin and I wish they would make an EdP version... like many L'Artisan scents, staying power could be a bit stronger. But nevertheless, it's a real must-have.
23 February 2006

Index Violet Moss by Fresh

A soft, green, pure and cool violet fragrance; more refined than Trumper's Ajacco Violets and less sweet than LA's Verte Violette. A perfect summer fragrance; unisex, but due to the woody, mossy drydown slightly more on the masculine side. Like most Fresh fragrances not very complex. Would be a winner if the longevity would be better - stays only 2 hours on my skin.
23 February 2006

Mukki by Fresh

This one is for sure not everybody's cup of tea. Its soft, subtle, milky composition reminds me of Diesel's Plus Plus fragrances, without the slightly sour undertone. A very relaxing, almost aromatherapeutical fragrance. I love it - but one should try it before purchasing.
23 February 2006

Grabazzi by Gendarme

Grabazzi is the best in the Gendarme range IMO. Very soapy, clean, crisp and someway innocent. Although it's not overpowering it stays all day long on my skin. The only Gendarme I will always have in stock - despite of its high price.
23 February 2006

Ambre Russe by Parfum d'Empire

Ambre Russe could be the shifty brother of Le Dandy. It has the same boozy quality, but even deeper: it starts with notes of champagne and vodka (!)and then changes to a heart of incense, ambergris and tea. The drydown is smooth, dark and leathery: cumin, cinnamon, coriander. An excellent, complex fragrance for evenings and cooler weather. Enourmous lasting power. It's distinctive and modern because of its unusual composition, and at the same time old-fashioned (in a positive way), as of its impression of leather chairs, open fire, cigars and whisky. It's catgorized as female fragrance (maybe because it's only available as EdP), but I find it to be more a unisex scent with a strong masculine accent.
23 February 2006

Navegar by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Navegar is one of the most surprising fragrances I own. It's like having several completely different colognes in one and the same bottle. One day it's a deep, green, cool and long-lasting scent with a dominant citrusy, leafy note. The other day it's a semi-gourmand, ginger-anise dominated scent, like a mysterious, darker brother of Bois Farine yet with a longevity near zero. I can't explain these changes of character and staying power - does it depend from weather, body chemistry, or whatever? But every facet Navegar has revealed so far was a very pleasant one - this is one of my favourite L'Artisan's.
17 February 2006

Bois Farine by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Bois Farine is incredible. At first sight, I was sceptical: a very comfortable, sweet, peanut cookie-like scent that reminded me of a candy store. Nice, but can this be suitable as a fragrance? Yes, it can: the sweet peanut top notes change quickly to a soft, warm sandalwood / cedar scent. Surprisingly subtle, yet it lasts on my skin for hours. Another Ellena masterpiece!
13 January 2006

Royal Court by Anglia Perfumery

Anglia Perfumery was founded to revitalise old traditional English fragrances that have been discontinued by their former manufacturers; mainly the Crown Perfumery scents after Clive Christian stopped producing them.
Royal Court is described as a "floral and eccentric cologne for gentlemen" and this is true: it's very floral and fairly eccentric. Citrusy top notes (orange, bergamot,lemon) are followed by a heart of lilac, jasmin, rose and a sweet, musky base. The predominant aroma is lilac, outstandingly combined with the other floral notes. It's sweet, warm and fresh at the same time and suitable for summer or winter. Perfect for clubbing, a bit too much for office use. There are few men's colognes that emphasize sweeter floral notes as explicitly as Royal Court. Really exceptional, but also a bit ambiguous, so you should sample this before you purchase it.
30 December 2005

Osmanthus by Different Company

Well, Osmanthus... without doubt a high quality fragrance with nothing else but the best natural ingredients. But this fruity, light floral is a bit too light for my taste. The Osmanthus aroma is hardly noticeable and after the topnotes of bergamote and tangerine have disappeared, all that remains are rose accords and castoreum; finally it turns to a Rose Poivrée - similar fragrance. Nice, but not too exciting. At least on my skin.
30 December 2005

Bois d'Iris by Different Company

Bois d'Iris is a wonderful blend of iris, vetiver, bergamote, tonka; with hints of cedarwood, narcissum, geranium and musk. The iris note is predominant. All in all, a woody, soft, elegant scent betwen Dior Homme (not as sweet) and Hermès Hiris (not as rough). Don't expect too much development from this, it's quite a linear fragrance; nevertheless very distinctive and its high quality is perceptible. Staying power is OK - could be a bit longer. Like all TDC scents, quite expensive - but in this case it's worth the money IMO.
30 December 2005

Piper Nigrum by Lorenzo Villoresi

Piper Negrum is one of those scents that need a little time to unfold their true brilliance. Cloying and somehow rotten during the first two or three minutes, it soon turns to a rich, warm, soft fragrance. It stays all days long and goes best with cold winter days. While it's one of my favourites in winter, I can barely imagine to wear it during summer.
30 December 2005

Frankincense & Myrrh by Czech & Speake

To me, F & M isn't that "churchy" as I expected. I the top note, the camomile is very dominant, then it develops to a deep, bright, balsamic fragrance with Vetiver, Lavender, Orris and a bitter Myrrh accord. Like all Czech & Speake scents, an excellent composition; very distinctive and long-lasting. Not everyone's cup of tea, for sure - but I love it. Thumbs up!
05 January 2006

Jicky by Guerlain

Jicky smells mediocre on those paper strips, but on your skin it develops to a wonderful, distinctive, sophisticated scent. The Eau de Parfum is much better than the EdT; to me it seems like the bolder brother of Mouchoir de Monsieur. Although it's labeled as a "feminine" fragrance, to me it is much more on the masculine side (but - who cares?) This is true elegance in a bottle.
05 January 2006

Gianfranco Ferré for Man by Gianfranco Ferré

Now this is really a hidden gem! Subtle, but it stays on your skin all day long. The citrus notes turn to a soft, smooth and silky leather note which is much more sophisticated than other ordinary leather accords. Great and - as other BNs said before - definitely underestimated.
05 January 2006

Honeysuckle & Jasmine by Jo Malone

Well, another case of being caught in the "boy's scent - girl's scent" trap. Although I love honeysuckle notes and take also to jasmine, I neglected this Jo Malone gem for a long time because it's indicated as a female fragrance and I presumed it had to be too sweet, too candy, too powdery (damn stereotypes...). Then I sampled it and found out this was one of the best summer scents I know. It's soft, warm, floral, clean and definitely suitable for women and men. Not too complex but nevertheless very well-crafted. The balance of honeysuckle, sandalwood and light jasmine is perfect. The only drawback is its longevity. But I own the (excellent) body lotion, and if you apply lotion and colgne it lasts all day.
08 September 2005

Melograno by Santa Maria Novella

This one starts fruity-fresh and bittersweet, the drydown is floral and a bit powdery. IMO Melograno is more on the masculine side. The pomegranate accords are quite unique and for sure not everybody's cup of tea - so try it befor you purchase. Good staying power. I personally love it, it's a good choice for summer evenings.
19 August 2005

Tilleul by D'Orsay

One of the best non-citrus scents for summer days. A soft, clean and subtle fragrance. It starts with honeysuckle, after some minutes the honey accord gets a bit stronger, but the fragrance's top notes stay very dominant all the time. A real feel-good scent , unfortunately with mediocre longevity.
19 August 2005

Milk of Flowers by Geo F Trumper

A total clove overdose... nice for cooking or baking, but not for wearing. After a heavy and cloying start, this juice begins to disappear rapidly. After twenty minutes it's gone.
18 August 2005

parfums*PARFUMS Series 3 Incense: Zagorsk by Comme des Garçons

I love CdG 2 and Kyoto and thought those two were the best incense fragrances I knew, but I changed my opinion after trying Zagorsk which is just great. A green, cool, deep incense, pine and fir needles and frozen wood planks. It does have some kind of old church atmosphere, but not as sweet cloying as Messe de Minuit and much more wearable. Due to its greenness suitable for warm summer evenings.
27 July 2005

Balle de Match by Parfums de Nicolaï

A complex, herbal citrus fragrance with hints of grapefruit, peaches and watermelon. Very pleasant drydown with grass and vetiver. A high-energy scent with long staying power.
21 July 2005

Bois de Cédrat by Creed

This is a wonderful citrus, very fresh but with very deep woody undertones. BUT after an hour or so it's gone. This is the most short-lasting Creed I have. Awesome juice, poor longevity - at least with me...
21 July 2005

Fleur du Matin by Miller Harris

A walk in the morning of a cloudless day in June, somewhere at the sea, through lush grassland, along bushes with blooms still closed. That's the impression you get when you smell Fleur du Matin. A mild-fresh, green, subtle fragrance with pine, jasmine, honeysuckle and hints of galbanum and grapefruit. Quite different from other green scents due to its softness. An easy-to-wear unisex fragrance for summer days. The longevity is so-so.
21 July 2005

Incensi by Lorenzo Villoresi

A really high-quality fragrance, complex and perfectly composed. The cinnamon note stays very present and the the basenote resembles more of hazelnuts than of incense. Very similar to L'Artisan's Mechant Loup IMO.
16 July 2005

Lys Méditerranée by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Well... as a great fan of Frerderic Malles Editions de Parfums and a lily fragrance junkie this one was a must-have, which I ordered blindly. My first impression was: what a mistake... This lily scent starts a bit too sweet and mellow and I really wa disappointed. But after ten minutes the heart notes starts and the mediocre impression changes to something just awesome: pure, green, cool, fresh lily; the fragrance turned from a somehow cheap female discounter drugstore juice to a real masterpiece. Finally, the musky basenote takes over and you get a wonderful balance of green floral freshness and dry soft notes. Perfectly wearable by a man and definitely a good choice for summer evenings.
16 July 2005

Mare by Beth Terry Creative Universe

Mare is a very unique marine scent, quite different from the many other aquatic fragrances out there. Its fruity saltiness is outstanding. It contains Sea Salt, Avocado, and Ginger Lily and really smells like a sunny afternoon at the beach. Good longevity, too.
14 July 2005

Rose Poivrée by Different Company

My favourite rose scent. Fresh, clean, natural and more on the masculine side because of its lack of sweetness. Great!
14 July 2005

Iris Poudre by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

This is amazing. One of the best fragrances I know. Powdery, aldehydic, yet definitely wearable by a man.
08 July 2005

Aqua di Roma Uomo by Laura Biagiotti

IMO Aqua di Roma is underestimated. A fruity-aquatic fragrance quite different from the many other melony scents, fresh, cool and very long-lasting.
27 June 2005

parfums*PARFUMS Series 2 Red: Palisander by Comme des Garçons

The best wood scent available, IMO! Pure, simple, clean wood aroma; and quite long-lasting. Worth a try!
21 June 2005

Anice by Etro

One of the more "masculine" Etro fragrances. I really like it - it's a very natural, pure and yet warm fragrance. You put it on and just feel good - it's perfect for spring and summer.
21 March 2005
 
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