 | 1872 for Men by Clive ChristianGeza Shoen's modern update on the traditional "cologne water," 1872 is somewhat similar to Tiffany For Men, only with a dash of pepper,a bit less powder and a much more "buttery" lemon note. The drydown is fairly linear and the sillage is moderate. Excellent for evening wear and to this nose, definitely not "feminine." Smells like one rich SOB! Worth the cost? Maybe, but as long as TFM is in production, it presents a better value for those concerned with price. Otherwise, by all means, spend away for a bottle of 1872, you rich SOB you! 14th December, 2011. |
| | Pi by GivenchyI remember when I purchased this back in 2000. Kooky bottle, amber juice. Sampled and liked it in the store. Later, I decided it wasn't my taste and I put it away. Over the years, I've taken it out now and then to try and though I haven't ever had a bad reaction, it never curled my toes so back it went and there it sat. 13rd April, 2010. |
 | Poison by Christian DiorThe olfactory equivalent of the audacious line backer shoulder pads, tourniquet-tight waistcoats, and towering hair of the Dynasty-inflected 1980's, Poison's tuberose-jasmine-overcooked-berry accord doesn't waft gently from the bottle or the skin; it rises and strikes like an angry cobra. There is nothing subtle or mysterious about Poison. It's all about power and total dominance. Poison invades and conquers every space it encounters. Even the tiniest dab on the nape of the neck can fill a good sized dining room like floral and grape juice stink bomb. And yes, it is fascinating at first sniff (much like a corpse is fascinating on first sight) but the fascination quickly turns to disgust, for me at least, and I suspect for most. (on first sniff, I am always reminded of the scene in the Raiders of the Lost Ark where the beautiful white smokey Ark ghost lady's face turns into a hideous skull, just before the Nazi's skin melts away. An apt metaphor.). 18th August, 2009. |
| | Kretek by Ava LuxeNat Sherman "Touch Of Cloves" cigarettes. We used to smoke them in the seventies when we were young and hip and slumming it in Boston. 24th December, 2007. |
 | Caron Impact Pour un Homme by CaronCaron has dropped the reference to Pour un Homme from the title. It's now just called "Impact." 24th December, 2007. |
| | Orphée by MaximsHard-to-find but worth the effort, Orphee is unlike anything else. A refined version of that irresistable smell of watermelon bubblegum you can occasionally detect at supermarket checkout counters. Wait. That sounds cheap. Orphee is much better than that. 24th December, 2007. |
| | Tokyo by KenzoInteresting. Kenzo Tokyo is, to this nose, a layered combination of Kenzo Jungle and Kenzoair. The initial notes are more Jungle. The later, basenotes are more like Kenzoair, so much so that the drydown is virtually indistinguishable from Kenzoair. I have always admired Kenzo for its unmistakable accord apparently across all its offerings. However, one expects that each new addition to a house's line will be somewhat original. Although Tokyo is pleasant (and definitely a Kenzo product) it is totally lacking in originality. 1st November, 2007. |
| | YSL pour Homme Haute Concentration by Yves Saint LaurentOne of the joys of collecting and savoring scent is the discovery of an old school fragrance that one somehow missed when they were new. YSL pour Homme Haute Concentration, for example. I just found this one. I had no idea. 31st July, 2007. |
| | Fougères Marines by MontaleA near dead ringer for Stardust (the mens cologne by Llewylln). FM is a tad more linear in the drydown. It doesn't change. Stardust is out of production and almost never shows up on line. Like Stardust? Fougeres Marines is a worthy substitute. 17th July, 2007. |
| | Monogram by Ralph LaurenI have to ask myself if the reason I am so insanely mad for this relic is because it's out-of-production and I have to admit, that is a big part of the appeal (who doesn't lust for that which one cannot have, at least not easily?) but, difficulty of attaining and maintaining an adequate supply aside, this is the single greatest carnation scent of all time. There. I said it. 18th May, 2006. |
| | Greyland by MontaleMontale scents all share a particular sharp, pungent accord whose intial, sudden burst in the nose is always a pleasant, if startling, experience. Greyland's top notes-an intoxicating blend of sharp, resinous cedar, smokey incense and almost ethereal, very light citrus and cumin notes-make it one powerhouse of a frangrance. Unlike other cedar/incense fragrances in my collection, Greyland lasts all day (at least on my fair, dry skin). And it isn't one-dimensional. After the bracing top notes slowly settle and quiet down, the sharp cedar steps aside a bit to reveal a soft, surprising semi-sweet aquatic note. Astonishing. 17th May, 2006. |
| | Eau de Patou by Jean PatouCalchic's review below on the complex composition is spot on. I would only add that this now out-of-production citrus and spice gem is is definitely suitable for men. It even out-classes Eau Sauvage in the fresh citrus category. Eau de Patou is like a smooth, silky citron cousin to Caron's L'Anarchiste. Shame it is no longer available. 28th April, 2006. |
| | Patou pour Homme by Jean PatouWhat's your favorite? The one you couldn't live without? Popular question among Basenoters. When it comes to absolute favorite, this fickle nose changes it mind ever few weeks, as it has done for years. How does one choose? 24th February, 2006. |
| | L'Eau du Navagateur by L'Artisan ParfumeurYes it is similar in some ways to Eau des Iles but they are discernable based on their familiar accords: L'Eau de Navagateur is unmistakably L'Artisan; lighter and brighter in composition-an oboe to EdI's bass bassoon--with sweet, smokey coffee beans, wood and spice. Also has a longer sillage trailer than EdI at least on my skin. Eau des Iles is unmistakably MPG, earthier, darker, moodier. I love them both for their differences and individual characters. 24th February, 2006. |
| | Cedro / Cedar by Acca KappaHigh quality, refined woods composition but not long lasting, at least on my old skin. The top is is clean, smooth aquatic cedar accord. I would love to have told you about the middle and basenotes but the drydown for me was more like a die down. Gone in 15 minutes. Reapplications did not help at all. 20th November, 2005. |
| | Xeryus by GivenchyXeryus is the closest thing to my holy grail artemesia (wormwood) foliage scent. Although listed as a top note, to my nose the artemesia permeates the entire composition, lasting right into the dry down of amber and heady, dry, resinous woods. And I mean lasts! Six hours and counting. 20th November, 2005. |
| | JHL by AramisThe second-best men's chypre ever (Derby is the best) and the most refined of all the 80's colognes in my estimation. You would think, looking at the note pyramid, that JHL would be super strong. It's not. It does last all day and it has has an excellent earthy woody dry down but it is not an overbearing loudmouth like so many of that decade's introductions (Yes, I am talking to YOU Drakkar...) 20th November, 2005. |
| | Aramis 900 by AramisYea, I can see the florals up there on the note pyramid. Don't be fooled. Aramis 900 is the most aromatic herbal cologne this nose has ever enjoyed. Guaranteed to clear your sinuses! All that is missing is a strong hit of balsam (I wonder what that would smell like). It calms down after a few mintues on the skin but the sharp snap of freshly broken twigs remains for hours. 20th November, 2005. |
| | Kingdom by Alexander McQueenCumin-a controversial smell for most-has the be the most difficult note to use as a base for any scent. L'Autre by Diptyque is pure cumin. It is also probably the single most reviled odor in a bottle ever produced (I love it to death). 20th November, 2005. |
| | Piper Nigrum by Lorenzo VilloresiBuy it and then use it very sparingly. A little goes a long way and, as absolutely fabulous as this singular fragrance is, if you overdo it (wearing it for days at a time or too heavily), it will turn you off. 2nd November, 2005. |
| | Kouros by Yves Saint LaurentThink "pretty." Think "girly." Think "floral-y" 2nd November, 2005. |
| | Iquitos by Alain DelonThe ultimate 80's era rose scent for men. This is not a bright pink rose characteristic of so many, mainly women's fragrances; Iquitos is a dark blood-red rose whose petal tips have started to brown and wither. More "thorn" than "petal," the genius of this composition is the balance between patchouli, amber and green (vetiver?) with the humid rose not that lasts from top to bottom. Smells like...? Nothing else I know. 2nd November, 2005. |
| | Bois Noir by ChanelChanel's masterpiece, Bois Noir flopped and was removed from the Chanel boutique shelves within the year of it's introduction (1987). It was re-launched in 1990 as Egoiste. As good as Egoiste is (and it is good, no, it is great) Bois Noir is far and away, a superior mix of the same notes found in Egoiste. It is a dirty rotten shame Chanel found it necessary to alter the formula, however slightly for it's relaunch as Egoiste but they did and of course, Egoiste was a huge success. 2nd November, 2005. |
| | Cuir de Russie by PiverA proletarian take on the "Russian Leather" accord. Where Chanel's Cuir de Russie is sublime floral smoke and leather, and Creed's Cuir de Russie is a complex and kaliedescopic journey through a well-kept stable bursting with polished and oiled riding tack, Piver's offering is just a solid-if-flat concoction of a slightly harsh bergamot/carnation held aloft by a patently synthetic leather. The prominent note is not leather though; it's a metallic mandarin slightly evocative of L'Anarchiste but just barely. This isn't to say Piver's Cuir isn't good. It's actually not bad and in fact, it gets better during the drydown where the sillage improves with time as it slowly reveals cedarwoods and spice. Am I glad I bought it blind? Sure, but L'Anarchiste does this better. Will I actually use it? Maybe. Sometimes. Probably not often. It's certain to be a nearly full bottle at my eventual estate sale, pending my eventual demise of course. 23rd August, 2005. |
| | Molinard Homme II by MolinardIf only the mandarin or the cedar were a bit more prominent, this could be an interesting, perhaps even outstanding cologne. As it is, the sum of the notes though not unpleasant initially (the juniper is very prominent on the top then disappears), dries down into something like cheap baby powder. Great I suppose if you like baby powder. 7th August, 2005. |
| | Derby by GuerlainThe single best gentleman's chypre ever. Like the previous reviewers, this nose was struck with the potency of the leather and the bergamot but... don't discount that peppermint. It's shade permeates the entire drydown but not loudly. The only thing that comes (came?) close was Monogram but Derby is much more complex, more long lasting and more sophisticated. I cherish my only two bottles with my life. 13rd June, 2005. |
| | Griff's by GeparlysUnremarkable. A trifle gourmand, like a low contrast A*men. Sweet and cloying. Ugh. But with that name, HOW could I resist? 23rd March, 2005. |
| | L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme by GuerlainI was of two minds regarding L'Instant. The composition is exquisite. A column of notes, all perfectly balanced. Definitely the sweetest Guerlain for men. However, there's that staying power issue. Somedays, it lasted for the entire day. Other days, it seemed to disappear an "l'instant." Doesn't seem to be weather or humidity related. Just a mystery. Final vote? A thumbs up. Well, how can you NOT add it to your collection? 14th February, 2005. |
| | Philosykos by DiptyqueThe perfect fig leaf and fig scent. Only Jo Malone comes close (and JM is a bit more floral fig to my nose but I like both and I prefer this one). 14th February, 2005. |
| | L'Eau by DiptyqueReminds me of a less complex version of LV Piper Nigrum. Definitely a must have (well, for ME at least...) 14th February, 2005. |
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