Fragrance Reviews by Asha

Serge Lutens Douce Amere

Notes: Absinthe (Artemisia absinthum) , cinnamon, anise, lily, jasmine, tiare, tagette, marigold, musk, cedar (from luckyscent)

When I first tried Douce Amere months ago, I was expecting more of a spicy anise scent--even the notes would lead me to this expectation. So, when I didn't smell anise, I asked, "Where's the licorice they are talking about?" Finally, after several wearings, I realized that Douce Amere has a candy-like licorice top note that reminds me very much of black jelly beans. I happen to love black jelly beans as well as real black licorice, so the appeal of this fragrance is not lost on me. Underneath the licorice I smell vanilla and mixed soft woods.

In the middle part of the development, the licorice becomes more attenuated, less candy-like and more herbal. I understand the absinthe association more now--living wormwood foliage smells dusty, dry, herbal, medicinal, bitter, and only vaguely licorice-like. This is what I smell in Douce Amere, except that the absinthe is offset by sweet vanilla-like and coconut-like notes and some vague, unidentifiable florals. The woody note has become a bit more sharp at this stage. Although cedar is listed, it doesn't have the "cedar closet" or "hamster cage" type of cedar note. It is much more creamy, and mimics softer wood such as sandalwood.

In the drydown, vanilla, a tiny bit of licorice and mixed woods remain, continuing to give a sandalwood effect, which is sweet and only a tiny bit woody smelling to my nose. DA has a dusty and sweet powdery quality throughout the development, and overall is rather diffuse, especially toward the end. Other fragrances I would compare to DA are: Kenzo Amour, Kenzo Vintage Edition Peace (which is like Bulgari Black without the rubber), and most closely resembled by Keiko Mecheri Paname. All of these fragrances have a vanilla-powder sweetness with contextual variations, although Paname has a rather straightforward licorice note. DA is sweet, but the sweetness is offset by herbal pungency, resulting in an interesting twist on the oriental theme. I find Douce Amere to be more sophisticated than the comparison fragrances, but, in the grand scheme, it is not as sophisticated as other grand orientals such as Shalimar. I find the woody base notes to be very satisfying in Douce Amere, and for me, this is where many sweet/powder/vanilla/woody orientals fall short.

Serge Lutens Bois Oriental vs. Shiseido Feminite du Bois

It is rather difficult to wear Bois Oriental and not compare it to its "mother" scent, Feminite du Bois. I am wearing both today, with an eye toward teasing out the differences that Bois Oriental has to offer.

Upon initial application, FdB is immediately violet-woody. In contrast, the violet in Bois Oriental seems to be dramatically attenuated in favor of a fresh soda-like top note. The effect is sort of like lemon-lime soda or tonic water blended with the same waxy, woody cedar base that is used in FdB. Interestingly, the seeming lack of violet makes Bois Oriental seem much softer, less penetrating, less bright. It has a lovely muted quality that allows the woods to take a more central role. As far as the top notes go, this would be an excellent way to enjoy the wonderful FdB base for people who are not crazy about violet. On the down side, the top notes fade much more quickly than in FdB, so the middle stage is very faint and seems to lack the complexity of FdB.

Further into the middle stage, Bois Oriental and Feminite du Bois are closer in character. FdB still seems to have more violet than Bois Oriental, and this violet note gives FdB a feminine, powdery floral quality. Bois Oriental has much less of this powdery note, and seems to have more of a sweet, clean musk or amber note. Drydown comes rapidly with all the Bois fragrances (less than 2 hours and probably closer to 1 hour). In the drydown, Bois Oriental has most of the same notes as FdB--beeswax, cedar, spices--but it is softer and sweeter, probably due to the added musk/amber. The overall effect is much lighter, and at this stage, Bois Oriental is more of a skin scent than FdB. Feminite du Bois eventually catches up, though, and in the deep drydown, the two are nearly indistinguishable. It is the beeswax, wood and light spice that remain at the very end.

Overall, Bois Oriental is more muted, less complex and develops more rapidly than Feminite du Bois. I loved the soda opening and wished it lasted a bit longer--the fizzy quality combined with sweet amber and wood was very refreshing and fun. It makes Bois Oriental seem less serious and heavy than FdB, and probably much better for general daytime, office or warm weather wear. Longevity is extremely poor, and the fragrance wears very close to the skin. FdB is still my preferred fragrance of the Bois series. However, I can see that Bois Oriental has its place, and some may prefer it if the heavy violet from FdB is off-putting.

Profumum Fiore d'Ambra

Notes: amber gris, opium (from luckyscent)

On first spray, I smell a golden resinous amber, carmelized sugar, powder, citrus, and a spice blend, probably cinnamon and clove. After the fragrance dries, the spices come out more, and it is clear that Fiore d'Ambra is primarily an oriental. The spice mixture reminds me a little bit of Estee Lauder Youth Dew--a dark spice concoction in which no one ingredient dominates, and the combination blends synergistically to form a new, not-found-in-nature spice. The spices are dry and dusty, and catch in my throat a bit. The dryness is offset by the sweet amber base, and persistent but light powder.

Further into the development, the spices stay strong and dry, and the rest of the fragrance mellows. The powder softens and becomes a bit more floral. The amber base sweetens more, and seems more vanillic and less resinous, forming a cushy pillow for the spices. The amber was actually much more prominent when first applied, but in the middle stage seems to take more of a supporting role. This is opposite to most orientals I have tried which typically have an amber analogue in the base which comes out more toward the end of the fragrance development. Having said that, Fd'A still reminds me of Youth Dew, and perhaps even more of Youth Dew Amber Nude, especially at this point.

I keep catching whiffs of Fd'A during the drydown. In this stage, the fragrance has sweetened considerably, and has lost the harsh spice edge. In fact, the spices faded to the point that they smell almost creamy, or, perhaps there is a creamy sandalwood in the base. A touch of powder and a hint of non-descript floral also remain. At any rate, it has become what I expect from an oriental...a soft vanilla and light resinous amber base. At this late stage, it recalls Givenchy Organza Indecence, although I think OI has a more creamy and delicious drydown. Overall, I find Fd'A to be very wearable, and slightly nostalgic due to the obvious nod in Youth Dew's direction. It is also very warm and comforting, and is composed of excellent, high quality ingredients.

Fiore d'Ambra seems to be relatively short lived. It developed in about 2-3 hours and is now wearing close to the body. Sillage was not as strong as I would have expected, given its oriental heritage. Profumum is extremely expensive, so before purchase, I would recommend a comparison to YDAN, if possible. (YDAN is discontinued, but is available at some online retailers.)

Bond No.9 Chinatown

Notes: Peach blossoms, gardenia, tuberose, patchouli, cardamom (from Bond No.9)

On first application (from a dabber sample), I smell cherries, sugar, almond and powder. A sharp but clean patchouli lurks below the surface, and the composition as a whole is incredibly sweet. Very quickly, the juicyness of the cherry note fades as does the sugar, leaving behind faint tart cherry and sharp almond with sweet powder. The powder is extremely strong and at times smells like baby products. The patchouli is either synthetic or processed--it doesn't have any of the typical head shop "funk" that natural patchouli essential oil has. However, it does add a bit of grunge to the super-sweet top notes, so I think overall it helps balance the composition. This is clearly an oriental, but as to whether it is gourmand, it is difficult to say at this point. Certainly the cherry almond opening is slightly edible, but right now, Chinatown seems more like a floral oriental with a dose of cherry Lifesaver candy.

I was hoping that Chinatown would morph a little as the top notes burn off, but so far the middle part of the development is linearly following what was present earlier. However, it is far more subdued. The powder has reduced in strength, but is still the most prominent note, and the sweetness is tempered by the astringent patchouli base note. The cherry and almond seem to be hanging in somewhat. I think that the supporting notes are the only things that make the powder seem more grown-up.

The drydown is still rather powdery, and has no traces of cherry or almond. An artificial floral has emerged...the notes say tuberose, but to me it smells more like Ylang Ylang as it has qualities of rubbery bubblegum and a vague furniture polish vibe. The patchouli is soft and fuzzy in the background, and is really not bad at this point. Although development has been fairly linear, it has also gone rather quickly--to complete drydown in only a couple hours. The fragrance is very faint now, much more subdued but not quite a skin scent.

I am disappointed in the ultra-linear development and the lack of complexity in this Chinatown. It seems to have very high quality ingredients, however, nothing so far has made me feel the urge to wear it more, let alone buy a bottle for an exorbitant amount of money.

Givenchy Organza EDP

Notes: Honeysuckle, Rosewood, Gardenia, Ylang-Ylang, Peony, Cedar, Vanilla (from Sephora)

I have read that some people find Organza to be "gourmand", even though my memory of it is more as an oriental, and somewhat reminiscent of Chanel Coco. I used to wear Organza daily when it first came out. In a way, it was my replacement for Coco, which was my signature scent. I love Organza, but never really went head over heels for it. These days, compared to the other woody orientals on offer (Armani Mania, for example), I feel that Organza outdoes most of the newer fragrances in the same genre. It is interesting that I seem to appreciate it more today than I did when I wore it more frequently!

On first spray, Organza is floral and powdery, with a hint of peppery spice. There is no particular flower that comes forward for me, but the bouquet tends more toward the "white" side of floral, and has some kind of synergistic effect that recalls spicy carnation. As the top notes settle, I smell creamy wood and sweet vanilla, although the floral notes are really much louder than the base at this point. Regardless, the base seems to deepen the brightness of the floral notes--heady flower nectar meets soothing woody amber. This is one of those fragrances that smells different depending on what distance I take. If I sniff very close to my arm, the florals become intoxicating. If I sniff a bit further away, I smell more of the powder, vanilla and spice. Either way the fragrance is STRONG...not quite the powerhouse that Coco is, but very close.

Eventually the floral notes mellow, and the powder retains a sort of astringent, biting quality that gives the composition some sharpness. The vanilla comes out more at this stage and is soft and sweet. I hesitate to say it is an edible vanilla, but it seems to walk the line--probably a little more vanilla and the fragrance would fall onto the spiced cookie side of the fence. The creamy wood I smelled earlier is not so apparent, although my experience with some orientals is that the woods become so much part of the amber base that they almost can't be distinguished. I actually like when this happens, as I really don't enjoy cedar fragrances that smell like pencil shavings or a hamster cage. In Organza, the wood is smooth and subtle, and probably has some sandalwood sweetening the cedar. I also wonder if there is patchouli in the fragrance, even though it is not listed as one of the notes. Sometimes patchouli has a peppery quality to it that is almost-but-not-quite spice. I keep smelling this peppery note, but it really does not smell like pepper spice.

As I move around, I catch whiffs from a distance, and the vanilla is so lovely--in the drydown it is the central attraction but does not become syrupy or go toward vanilla extract. Since my skin really dries things out, it is possible this could go very sweet on some. As for me, the sweetness is muted, and the vanilla has a fluffy cloud-like quality. The woods continue to be creamy and also a bit sweet. This is where the family resemblance to Organza Indecence comes out, and I love this part of the fragrance development.

In the late drydown, the floral notes are mostly faded, leaving behind a sweet vanilla amber that is soft and a touch powdery. The development went faster than I expected--about 2 hours to get to the base notes, and 6 hours later, the fragrance is mostly a skin scent. I think this is what Estee Lauder Amber Ylang Ylang really wants to be--a soft floral over sweet vanilla amber. To me, Organza does this far more successfully, although the top notes are rather penetrating at first. It is also at this late stage that I can say the vanilla becomes slightly more edible and custard-like, but still keeps arms length from being foody because of the light powder.

Malle Musc Ravageur and Renee Musk Comparison

Left hand: Frederick Malle Musc Ravageur (Oil)
Right hand: Renee Musk

Musc Ravageur--It has been a really long time since I have smelled MR, and only now have I had access to the fragrance again. For some reason, I thought MR was closer to MKK, but now it doesn't seem that way. At the start, I smell sweet musk and spices. The musk is like other sweet synthetic musks I have smelled, and I actually don't think it is super special. What is more special is what is with the musk, in this case, I smell cinnamon, clove, and maybe some nutmeg. It is the pumpkin-pie 1-2-3 punch, trio of spices. I suppose if MR had a little bit of fruityness, it really could be a pumpkin pie fragrance rather than a musk, but I digress. It is either fading fast, or I am getting nose fatigue. I don't detect much progression--it is pretty much staying in the synthetic musk with spices space, although the edgyness of the spices is wearing off a bit, making it a bit smoother and very warm.

Renee Musk--For some reason I remembered that this one started with a sort of pee note, and thought it might be civet. Even in Scent Bar last week, I smelled the pee note briefly when the fragrance was first sprayed on the strip. Wearing it today, what is more apparent is the poop note (aka manure), as this so-called musk is actually very leathery. It has a castoreum-like scent which includes manure, leather, bandaid/antiseptic, etc. The musk is actually very subtle, and seems to be more of a carrier for the leather. This one is also developing very quickly. The castoreum is having its typical progression away from the horse stable and more toward the leather horse saddle. The musk is nearly undetectable at this point.

I must be very honest--after trying some synthetic musk notes in the note identification project, it is clear to me that the quality and concentration of the particular musk aromachemical is of paramount importance. The synthetic musks are mostly ho-hum, with hardly any depth or breadth, so I think they 1) rely heavily on other ingredients to make them shine and/or 2) end up being used as a base because they aid in marrying notes rather than being the star attraction.

As a result, my impressions of FMMR and RM are really not so good, because I think the musks are not so good. They lack the complexity and longevity needed to be the central note in a fragrance. And the other notes which are supposedly supporting the musks are becoming insipid--it is as though they have no base notes. On final analysis, I also have to disagree with statements that FMMR and RM are the same. They do smell *similar* when first applied, but they diverge rapidly.

If I had to pick between the two, it would be Musc Ravageur, because Renee Musk is really more of a leather scent, and I think it is better compared with other leathers rather than other musks. As a former Coty Wild Musk girl, neither of these satisfy me.

Coty Wild Musk and Marc Jacobs Amber Splash Comparison

On the right arm: Coty Wild Musk Oil
On the left arm: Marc Jacobs Amber Splash EDT

On first application:

They both had very similar sweet ambery vanilla top notes, with the CWM being slightly more sweet but with a penetrating chemical or "hairspray" smell peeking through. I noticed this quality in excess when I sprayed the CWM EDT, and have been wondering if the oil was any different. Turns out--no, it is not, however, at the start, this note is greatly diminished as compared to the CWM spray.

The MJA was a tiny bit more dry, and for lack of a better way to say it, sort of baseless. It definitely didn't have the same chemical undertones as the CWM, but likewise did not seem to have anything anchoring it either.

Development:

Both scents developed very quickly, but the MJA lost its top notes a bit faster than the CWM oil. However, as the two developed, that chemical scent from the CWM became more apparent. By this time, I was wondering if this the the Musk part of the CWM. Further, I was wondering if perhaps the CWM I wore as a young adult had the dreaded NITRILE musks. If so, it would make sense that the newer one smells different to me. Also, since both the CWM spray and the oil have it, clearly it was an intentional part of the composition. The MJA started to literally disappear--it either burns through the entire composition very quickly, or the base notes are almost non-existant.

Complete dry down:

Now, almost 9 hours later, I can't really smell anything from the MJA arm. On the CWM arm, there is very little sweetness left, but the chemical musk smell is still present, though not very strong anymore. On the whole, the CWM oil also seemed to last longer than the CWM edt, based on a previous wearing of the spray.

Prices:

The MJA, is $65 retail for 10 ounces--which makes it $6.50 per ounce (could be less if found at a discounter). Due to its short longevity, it would need to be refreshed about every 4 hours, probably 1-2 sprays per wrist at least.

The CWM oil I saw for varying prices, but typically is around $15 ($11 plus shipping) for 0.5 ounce. So, $30 per ounce, but only a dab is needed and it lasts all day.

The CWM edt was around $10 at Target for 1.5 oz., so $6.67 per ounce (surprise--it is MORE than MJA). Longevity as I remember from my last wearing was more along the lines of MJA.

I think if you are a CWM lover, the MJA is actually not a bad deal, and has some of the same sweet character as CWM. However it does not have the oily chemical musk base, and fades to nearly nothing. The fading could be desirable for people who like to switch fragrances from morning to evening. Also, the low concentration of the MJA makes it a refreshing splash-type application.

Coty Wild Musk and Marc Jacobs Amber Splash Comparison

On the right arm: Coty Wild Musk Oil
On the left arm: Marc Jacobs Amber Splash EDT

On first application:

They both had very similar sweet ambery vanilla top notes, with the CWM being slightly more sweet but with a penetrating chemical or "hairspray" smell peeking through. I noticed this quality in excess when I sprayed the CWM EDT, and have been wondering if the oil was any different. Turns out--no, it is not, however, at the start, this note is greatly diminished as compared to the CWM spray.

The MJA was a tiny bit more dry, and for lack of a better way to say it, sort of baseless. It definitely didn't have the same chemical undertones as the CWM, but likewise did not seem to have anything anchoring it either.

Development:

Both scents developed very quickly, but the MJA lost its top notes a bit faster than the CWM oil. However, as the two developed, that chemical scent from the CWM became more apparent. By this time, I was wondering if this the the Musk part of the CWM. Further, I was wondering if perhaps the CWM I wore as a young adult had the dreaded NITRILE musks. If so, it would make sense that the newer one smells different to me. Also, since both the CWM spray and the oil have it, clearly it was an intentional part of the composition. The MJA started to literally disappear--it either burns through the entire composition very quickly, or the base notes are almost non-existant.

Complete dry down:

Now, almost 9 hours later, I can't really smell anything from the MJA arm. On the CWM arm, there is very little sweetness left, but the chemical musk smell is still present, though not very strong anymore. On the whole, the CWM oil also seemed to last longer than the CWM edt, based on a previous wearing of the spray.

Prices:

The MJA, is $65 retail for 10 ounces--which makes it $6.50 per ounce (could be less if found at a discounter). Due to its short longevity, it would need to be refreshed about every 4 hours, probably 1-2 sprays per wrist at least.

The CWM oil I saw for varying prices, but typically is around $15 ($11 plus shipping) for 0.5 ounce. So, $30 per ounce, but only a dab is needed and it lasts all day.

The CWM edt was around $10 at Target for 1.5 oz., so $6.67 per ounce (surprise--it is MORE than MJA). Longevity as I remember from my last wearing was more along the lines of MJA.

I think if you are a CWM lover, the MJA is actually not a bad deal, and has some of the same sweet character as CWM. However it does not have the oily chemical musk base, and fades to nearly nothing. The fading could be desirable for people who like to switch fragrances from morning to evening. Also, the low concentration of the MJA makes it a refreshing splash-type application.

I have been trying to understand Coromandel for a while now. I first tried it from a small 1ml dabber sample. At the time, my initial impressions were the same as much of the Chanel Exclusifs line--high quality ingredients, seems like a solid composition worthy of the Chanel name, etc., etc. Of the ones I tried, Coromandel was toward the top, but not quite good enough for me to want to explore it with any particular zeal. I shelved it for another time...a time when I would have a spray decant and a larger amount I could wear several times. Finally, I rekindled this back-burner fragrance.

Coromandel starts off very spicy and earthy. It supposedly contains patchouli, however, it is definitely not a "head shop" type of patchouli. In fact, it seems almost not patchouli at all except for the quirky aromatic plant root smell which is one of patchouli's strong characteristics. The spice is a blend, probably of pepper, cinnamon and clove. Like other fragrances that combine patchouli and spice, the mixture is very synergistic, making the patch seem less funky and the spices less edible. Below the surface is an overripe fruit and boozy floral accord, but in the beginning, it is not very apparent. It gives the dry patchouli and spice a bit of needed wetness and some sweetness. The fragrance develops much more slowly than the other Exclusifs I have tried (Eau de Cologne, 31 Rue Cambon, 28 La Pausa and Bel Respiro), and it is stronger, more like a cross between EDT and EDP.

As the top notes settle, the fruit and floral notes becomes more prominent. I think Coromandel is classified as an oriental, and so far it fits this category. The fruit and floral accord reminds me of a similar accord in Shiseido Feminite du Bois. The honey and woody notes of FdB are lacking in Corormandel, but the raisiny tart and sweet "desert wine" is there. Actually, this accord seems to be exactly the same as the overripe fruit and floral I smell in 31 Rue Cambon. It is as if the perfumer took this one central accord, "florified" it for 31RC and "spicified" it for Coromandel. Given that something in 31RC turned really sour on my skin in the drydown, I am very happy to have this yummy accord in a different composition that works much better on my skin.

In the middle part of the development, Coromandel still has the spice and patchouli. At this stage, the fragrance really smells a lot like dirt to me. The dirt is so strong, it eclipses most everything else. When I try to pick out the other notes, I still smell the spices pretty strongly, but the fermented fruit accord is quite a bit more subdued. Also at this stage, a powdery floral note comes out, and to my nose, this is the only truly feminine part of the development. The dirt is rather strong, though, and on me this stage lasts a pretty long time (at least an hour, probably more like two). It could be that a resin is responsible for this dirt scent, or perhaps a combination of resin with the patchouli. Some fragrances that have a lot of resins in the base tend to have a strange, almost BO scent to them. Combined with patchouli, I can certainly imagine a weird mix of salty, BO-ish resin and aromatic plant roots translating into the smell of dirt. I suppose this could be a turnoff for some, but I find it to be fascinating.

In the late stages, Coromandel takes a twist, and seems to turn from an oriental to a fougere (free of oakmoss, of course). I smell dry spices, some powder, light incense (probably also from the resin), some herbs, and a very nice amber musk. In fact, in the drydown, Coromandel smells incredibly close to the drydown of Divine l'Homme Sage, but a bit less dry and with some floral lingering from the middle notes. Well, I love Dl'HS, so I am really enamored of the Coromandel drydown also. And, I must say that the spices were extremely well behaved throughout--bright and sharp, but not taking over the whole composition. Longevity has been great--I can still smell it 12 hours later.

I believe Coromandel is classified as a women's fragrance, but I have no doubt that a man could wear this one. The middle stage with juicy fermented fruit and a bit of floral powder may be the only deterrents. I don't care much for gender labels, but if I compare this to other female fragrances from Chanel, it seems really different--much more mutable, dependent upon mood, time of day, and what stage of development the fragrance has reached. It certainly carries the legacy of Coco with the boozy floral note, but there is nothing else in Chanel's line that comes close to Coromandel. I certainly hope this is a sign of things to come.

This review is for Coco EDP

Coco has been a long time favorite of mine. It was released in the mid-80s, and I wore it in the early-to-mid 90s. At the time, my only other "signature" scent had been Coty's Wild Musk. I really wanted something more refined and mature with an oriental vibe--amber, musk and spice. I wasn't really looking for anything with strong floral notes, but Coco won me over with husky, boozy, spicy florals and an amazing amber drydown.

On first application, I smell aldehydes, rose, carnation and powder. The aldehydes are mild, and have the effect of brightening the composition. These are not the same soapy aldehydes that are in No. 5, rather, they are more fruity and citrus-like. The rose is dry and boozy at the same time. It is like a rose bouquet--some roses smell dusty, but sweet and powdery. Others smell like a fine rose liquor, complete with raisiny, spicy, sweet and tart qualities. The carnation is fresh and spicy, like a mixture of garden pinks which smell like cloves, and florists' carnations which have a sort of frosted rose petal effect.

As the aldehydes burn off, the rose and carnation come forward even more, and the sweet base of amber and vanilla start to deepen the impression of these two floral notes. The rose and carnation seem dark and mysterious. The boozy, preserved fruit quality of the rose is very penetrating, and taking deep inhalations, it feels like it goes straight into my heart. My experience with combining resins and rose is that the rose truly sings, and the combination of resinous base notes with the rose notes in Coco is no exception. The amber and resin base is a beautiful cushion which perfectly supports the rose. As the rose begins to fade, the sweet base seamlessly absorbs the rose and becomes more prominent. It is amazing that the spicy carnation keeps going strong through this phase, and is instrumental in the transition from top to middle to base.

The powder comes out again in the drydown, along with the spicy carnation, the dried fruit aspect of the rose, amber and resins. The vanilla and tonka are not dominant, but typically notes like this are very important in amber, and the amber accord is what I smell more than anything. I used to think that Coco had musk in the drydown, but I don't have that impression today. The overall effect in the drydown is floral spice with sweet, powder and delicately resinous amber. I find Coco to be gorgeous at every stage--even the drydown is amazing in its beauty. What a masterful use of natural and artificial rose notes by the perfumer--it gives such a vibrant "better than the real thing" quality from start to finish. It is as if the volume and saturation of a damask rose are turned up to the maximum. I love the intensity.

The EDP is a very long wearing, slowly developing fragrance. Sillage is enormous, and longevity is amazing--I have smelled Coco 10-12 hours after applying, and it is still more than a skin scent by that time. I have worn this fragrance in almost every form it takes: Parfum, EDP, EDT, powder, lotion and bath products. I think the EDP is one of the best, and it is also best on skin rather than paper or cloth. I didn't realize what a ground-breaking fragrance this was at the time I wore it regularly. It does seem a little bit dated (think big hair, big shoulder pads, big fragrance), and it shares some similarity with Estee Lauder Knowing (another big rose). However, it was Coco's spicy and boozy rose over a cloud of amber that stole my heart.

Notes: (from Bois de Jasmin) cedarwood, orange blossom, rose, violet, honey, plum, beeswax, clove, cardamom, cinnamon

I used to own Feminite du Bois EDP, the original release by Shiseido. It is actually a Serge Lutens/Christopher Sheldrake creation, and originally came in a gorgeous dusky purple bottle with a curvy smooth shape that reminds me of a Brancusi sculpture. I have read several conflicting reports that it has been discontinued, or has limited distribution in countries other than the US, or some such. I also read a Serge Lutens news story or interview in which SL explicitly stated FdB would be re-released through the SL export line (can't remember where I saw it, and now I can't find it). I hope this is the truth, and I hope they don't mess with the formula or strength!

I never knew about Lutens before I started exploring perfumes in depth here on BN and other sites. I bought FdB simply because I loved it, and nothing else I was testing at the time came close to the complexity, modernity and originality of FdB. I later found out that SL sketched out some other fragrances inspired by FdB, and these are currently in the non-export line. Of the ones I tried, the following come closest to FdB, especially in the drydown: Bois de Violette, Bois et Fruits, Bois et Musc. Bois Oriental and Un Bois Vanille are supposedly also based on the FdB structure, but to me, these did not seem as similar in tone. Another Sheldrake creation which has the FdB drydown is Christian Dior Dolce Vita.

Upon first application, FdB is immediately spicy, penetrating, sharp and woody. I can smell cinnamon and clove, cedar, and something that makes the wood seem sweet and creamy--could be the beeswax mentioned in the notes. I do smell something that seems a bit like the deeply resinous and vaguely honey-like beeswax I have smelled in pure beeswax candles. To my nose, the cedar is very well done, not like pencil shavings or hamster cage litter. I have read that FdB uses Iso E Super, so this could be the reason that the cedar note has the smooth quality it does. Also, in the past, I remember FdB going through a sweaty cumin stage between the top and middle notes, but I am not smelling that today.

As it dries, the violet and fruits come out. The violet is slightly floral, not overly sweet, and is definitely not the candied violet in Bois de Violette. The fruit seems dried, like prunes or raisins. I am sure listing "prune" in the notes is not very glamorous, but the scent of prune-plums is one of my all time favorites, and I always loved opening a can of prune-plums in syrup so I could get the first whiffs. So, plum it is, but definitely not like the plums you get from the produce section of the grocery store. The beeswax is also a bit more prominent now. It seems to be a wonderful alternative to using resins or vanilla to pull things together.

FdB develops fairly quickly, and the drydown stage is gorgeous--mild cedar and spice mixture, and the lingering sweetness of beeswax. I would say cinnamon is the dominant spice note, and it gives the drydown some bite. However, the cardamom and clove soften the edges a little bit, fade into the background, and seem to almost become part of the wood more than the spice mixture. I don't know why I never realized before that the beeswax was the resinous unifier in this fragrance. The FdB base is so different than the typical amber oriental base of labdanum, vanilla and benzoin (or other resins). Upon further reflection, if the amber base were broken into resinous, woody and balsamic parts, I think all of these roles are filled by the beeswax, cedar and cardamom. Perhaps this is what Luca Turin meant when he referred to this base as an alternative oriental.

One fragrance map I have seen places FdB in the fruity chypre family. I suppose if the definition of an oriental is something with an amber accord in the base, then this might not be the right category for FdB. However, it has the depth and complexity of an oriental, and in some ways also has the heavyness. I think it was ahead of its time, at least for US customers. And I can see why it might not do very well here--it is definitely not a superficial fragrance, and some may find it very challenging. Sillage and longevity are moderate, but since I love the creamy, woody, spicy drydown, I don't mind getting there quickly!

Notes: (from Givenchy)
Top: Cinnamon, Tangerine
Heart: Jacaranda Wood, Plum
Base: Amber, Patchouli

I bought Organza Indecence when it first came out, so my bottle is the feminine one with the open, flowing gown, and the fragrance is EDP strength. At the time, I was already a lover of the Original Organza, and OI was having a special on gift sets, so I also got a cute mini, some body lotion and shower gel. It appears they no longer make the body products, and I am not sure if the fragrance is the same juice, but I read on the Givenchy site that the re-release is also an EDP. The new bottle is blocky, a tall rectangle like the Serge Lutens export line.

I am not generally very keen on fragrances that emphasize spices (eg, Serge Lutens Russe or Arabie), but for some reason, I never really noticed the cinnamon in OI. Spraying it now, I do smell the cinnamon more (since I am paying attention, probably), but it is not an edible cinnamon or part of a spice melange. Rather, it blends initially with the other top and mid notes to give a sort of tart fruit and light wood effect. In some ways it reminds me of a holiday potpourri, but it definitely does not have a cheap candle quality. Still, the combination of citrus, spice and wood is very reminiscent of wintertime holidays. In fact, OI is a great cool weather scent either by association, or by the depth and relative heaviness of the composition.

As the top notes burn off, I notice the patchouli much more. Sandalwood is not mentioned in the notes, but I smell something that could pass for sandalwood--it is a dusty, sweet wood smell with no cedar notes that I can detect. It compliments the cinnamon and patchouli very nicely--the patchouli becomes more rounded and the cinnamon helps the fragrance retain just enough sharpness to keep it from becoming fuzzy. Another note which is not listed is Vanilla, but I am sure it is in there (it could be in the amber accord), pulling the whole composition together. One of the mid-notes that becomes more apparent is a sort of preserved fruit note--either dried fruits or fruits steeped in brandy.

Further into the development, the cinnamon is still present, the sandalwood becomes more strong and the fruits fade. The sandalwood is a bit more powdery at this stage. Sometimes it seems like the cinnamon comes out more, but then a later sniff smells more like sandalwood. The patchouli is also still there, but quiet and earthy. Smelling the fragrance close to my skin, I can smell distinct notes, Smelling it further away, it is a gorgeous blend. The combination is creamy, not what one would expect given the notes. At the same time it still has a pleasant "bite", like a kind of tree wood that does not exist in nature.

I think the deep drydown is what most people associate with this fragrance, and it is well worth the wait. The creamyness amplifies as the sharper top and mid notes soften. The result is a beautiful creamy vanilla sandalwood with light cinnamon spice. It is still not edible-smelling, but it is incredibly voluptuous without being pretentious, and gracefully soft without being girly. It is really a difficult scent to describe--I find my self resorting back to the individual notes, but again, their combination is what makes this one special.

Overall, the fragrance is complex and deep, but is not extreme in its development. In fact, I would say it is mostly linear except that different stages highlight different parts of the scent quite well. I always used to think it had very strong sillage, but now it seems more moderate. Compared to a fragrance like Mugler's Angel, OI is mild mannered and genteel. It is not light by any means, but not a shrinking violet, either. Longevity is excellent--after 10 hours I can still smell it. It is light at this point, but not so light to be a skin scent.

As I write this, I am struck by the similarity of OI to Shiseido Feminite du Bois. Both are orientals built primarily on a woody base with spices and dried fruits. Where FdB focuses on cedar and cumin, OI highlights sandalwood and cinnamon. In either case, there is a comforting quality that makes me want to be enveloped in the scent. With OI, the fragrance hints at being edible without turning into candy or cake. I love the contrast of sharp and soft, sweet and dry or dusty. I love how the all the ingredients work together so that the cinnamon becomes part of the fragrance composition rather than taking over (a very common problem with some spices). Mostly, though, I love the blend that is more than the sum of its parts.

l'Eau d'Hiver--hmmm...paint...a mixture of artists' paint and the kind I have used to paint interior walls. So let me break it down a little. Some kind of aromatic wood scent, vanilla, some kind of bitter nut, maybe almond, pecan or walnut. There must also be something like linseed oil and a touch of turpentine. Ed'H is fairly dry and nutty, but some very faint sweetness and powder is developing as it dries.

Turin claimed this fragrance has an "almond water" quality. I can understand this interpretation--the nuttyness is definitely prominent, and it is amazing what other notes may be evoked by a simple almond. I read somewhere that some nuts contain cyanide. It is definitely of the poisonous family of cyanide chemicals, but in a very small amount. I wonder if that is what gives some nuts their astringent, bitter quality. This is the sensation I get when I smell Ed'H. I have just shelled an almond or a walnut, and the natural oils are newly released onto my hands and the meat of the nut. Then, when I taste it, it is sweet, bitter, dry and woody. That is what I smell in Ed'H.

This is a fascinating fragrance. I wonder if people really wear this as it seems more like a scent experience rather than a perfume. About an hour after application, it is very light, verging on a skin scent. It still smells nutty and dry with a hint of linseed oil, but it also has taken on a bit more of the powder I noticed earlier. I definitely want to smell this again, although I am disappointed by its longevity.

Datura Noir--Cherry, almond, vanilla, sweet latex rubber, bubblegum, overall very sweet. The almonds are beautifully sharp with seemingly contradictory sweet and bitter components. In the early stage, it actually reminds me quite a bit of Dior Hypnotic Poison, except that the latex note is much less prominent in DN. I am having a hard time believing this is a SL scent as it seems so light and joyful, if you can categorize an oriental in that way. It is definitely sugary and playful, not heavy like most of the other scents I have tried from this house.

After the top notes have burned off a little bit, I smell what seems to be a synthetic tropical floral note. It is not unpleasant at all, but a bit unexpected. It might be ylang ylang--it is very heady and it has a rounded bubblegum quality to it. The whole composition is rather candy-like, as if the tropical floral is sugar-coated in some way. About an hour in, the frag has remained fairly linear, with a sort of "thinning" or fading of the once bold and colorful candied flower. The sweetness is also fading, leaving a tart and sour note (like Sweet-Tart candy) which I have smelled many times in mainstream fruity florals. Also the ylang ylang is taking on its typical powder edge which is dry and indolic. Overall, I think Hypnotic Poison is a better composed fragrance, if the latex note isn't too off putting. However, the Datura Noir is worth a try for anybody who is interested in the light gourmand oriental genre.

The middle part of the development was best, right after the tangy top notes burned away. On me it was a dry, dry woody scent with some light powder, some earthyness (vetiver-like) and probably the cumin making it seem a bit "off", in a good way. If the scent smelled like this the whole time, I would probably buy a bottle.

Unfortunately, the good part goes away after a couple of hours, and the remaining notes are not of interest. A good musk, but not enough of it. And that nasty cinnamon candle wax note. The drydown reminds me of Cuir de Lancome but with an inferior musk.

It is a bit powdery, but that is not the sole attraction. To my nose, it is a woody fougere, and the sweetness from the powder balances it a little. However, on my skin, things really dry out, so I can imagine that this powder can take over on some people. On me, the sweetness does not last long at all, so the powder turns very dry and green (ie chypre).

Maybe the twist in this frag is that it has both fougere and chypre things going on. It is vaguely ammoniac to my nose (maybe that is the bitterness mentioned above). Whatever it is that smells like ammonia to me is in quite a few fougeres. I think it is a lavender note, one of the more bitter herbal ones, and maybe synthetic. That part is not pleasant.

To sum up, it is dry on me, not cloying in the least. It is not feminine, either. It reminds me of Caron Pour un Homme with oakmoss. This is my second time sampling, and my second impression is definitely not as good as the first!

On first application, L'HS has a distinct licorice candy scent, backed up by an herbal blend and a sweet amber musk. The licorice is not cloying to me--it is a grownup scent which reminds me of those little italian licorice pastilles which have no sugar added. The only sweetness is what comes from the licorice root itself, and the flavor mostly comes from anise. This stage does not last long, but gradually gives way to the herbs and amber/musk. Also, a bit of fern (or what I would call the "fougere" note) peeks out, but is not very strong at this point.

The herbal stage lasts a bit longer. So far I do not smell any resemblance to Le Nez Let me Play the Lion (a comparison that was made by another BNer). However, I agree that there is a sort of cloud-like quality--individual herbs are difficult to identify in this blend. I don't smell sage at all, to be honest. Sage is bitter and medicinal, and L'HS never loses its gentle sweetness on me (which is very surprising). I am wondering if it is artemesia rather than salvia--we did have this discussion regarding Let Me Play the Lion. Artemesia is not really a sage, but one type of artemesia has a common name of sagebrush. Its aroma (while the leaves are still alive) can tend toward a licorice or sweet herbal, slightly woody smell. It still reminds me of a high quality version of Bulgari Eau Parfumee Au The Rouge.

The drydown is a sweet amber/musk with a touch of fern ("fougere"). This same base is used in other fragrances, so it is not all that unusual. However, it is very pleasant. I guess the question is--is it worth the money? Are the unique top and mid notes enough to justify a bottle? I think you could do worse. It is a very pleasant scent from top to bottom, no matter how you look at it. And, the ingredients seem to be of high quality, so you don't end up with a cheap, grating musk or other off notes.

Longevity seems good, at least for the base notes. The top was gone within the first hour, and the middle was gone within the first 2-3. I can still smell the base without putting my arm to my nose, and it has been around 7 hours since I applied it.

It is supposed to be a "contemporary fougere," but to be honest, I am not sure I get that from Covet. I do not smell any geranium nor anything herbal or fern-like. I do not even get the chocolate. What I smell is a bright green mixed citrus over a sweet musk base, all extremely synthetic. In fact, the middle part of the development is almost like sweet latex rubber to my nose. I have smelled the same notes in Burberry Brit and JPG Gaultier^2. I own a full bottle, so I liked it enough to take the plunge. However, I really don't understand the fourgere categorization on this one. On the plus side, the longevity is amazing (at least 12 hours).

I wrote before that this is really not so special, and that EL Bronze Goddess covers this genre nicely for a fair price. However, after wearing SJP Covet and Realities Sweet Desire fairly recently (two very common frags, not noted for the quality of their ingredients), I must raise my opinion of Bahiana. I still think Bahiana is not a stellar fragrance, but it is a high quality as far as I can tell. It is a nice citrus/tropical floral with wood notes in the base. I could put it in the same family as all the light woody scents I have tried in the last couple of months (EL Sensuous, EL Bronze Goddess Kenzo Amour, Kenzo Peace, Lancome Magnifique, etc.). Bahiana is worthy of this category, but maybe not better. Still, if you do not want to smell like all the other Bronze Goddesses and have the budget, Bahiana could be a good choice.

Jean Despres Bal a Versailles and Miller Harris L'Air de Rien Comparison

Left arm: Jean Desprez Bal a Versailles EDC
Right arm: Miller Harris L'Air de Rien EDP

An article I read recently compared BaV concentrations in both parfum and EDT with L'AdR. L'AdR comes only in EDP, but I know from past experience that it is short lived, and not entirely incomparable to an EDT or EDC.

BaV starts with a blast of civet and very soapy aldehydes (much like the scent of Ivory soap). It has a slight sourness that I sometimes smell in these types of aldehydes, but it is not unpleasant on my skin. The civet doesn't last long, but the soapyness continues through the mid development. Now (about an hour later), I still smell the soap, but also powder, leather, and a bit of another animalic note which reminds me of the animal-cage smell in Dzing! (the note is castoreum). The article said "bar of soap in a horse stable". I would have to agree with this sentiment!

L'AdR starts much sweeter with a slightly dirty amber accord. No civet, but the "dirty" smell is a similar leather and horse barn smell (castoreum). There is no soapyness or sourness, but there is a bit of powder at this stage. It is also retaining its sweetness pretty well, something that is a challenge with my skin. Incidentally, the BaV is quite dry in comparison, at least for me.

I completely understand how a comparison can be made between these two, but I see it mostly in the middle and early part of the drydown. I have a slight preference for the Miller Harris since it forgoes the "dated" aldehydic notes and stays sweet on my skin. However, the BaV is also a very interesting fragrance, and I can imagine exploring its different concentrations.

Jean Despres Bal a Versailles and Miller Harris L'Air de Rien Comparison

Left arm: Jean Desprez Bal a Versailles EDC
Right arm: Miller Harris L'Air de Rien EDP

An article I read recently compared BaV concentrations in both parfum and EDT with L'AdR. L'AdR comes only in EDP, but I know from past experience that it is short lived, and not entirely incomparable to an EDT or EDC.

BaV starts with a blast of civet and very soapy aldehydes (much like the scent of Ivory soap). It has a slight sourness that I sometimes smell in these types of aldehydes, but it is not unpleasant on my skin. The civet doesn't last long, but the soapyness continues through the mid development. Now (about an hour later), I still smell the soap, but also powder, leather, and a bit of another animalic note which reminds me of the animal-cage smell in Dzing! (the note is castoreum). The article said "bar of soap in a horse stable". I would have to agree with this sentiment!

L'AdR starts much sweeter with a slightly dirty amber accord. No civet, but the "dirty" smell is a similar leather and horse barn smell (castoreum). There is no soapyness or sourness, but there is a bit of powder at this stage. It is also retaining its sweetness pretty well, something that is a challenge with my skin. Incidentally, the BaV is quite dry in comparison, at least for me.

I completely understand how a comparison can be made between these two, but I see it mostly in the middle and early part of the drydown. I have a slight preference for the Miller Harris since it forgoes the "dated" aldehydic notes and stays sweet on my skin. However, the BaV is also a very interesting fragrance, and I can imagine exploring its different concentrations.

Flower by Kenzo EDP and Parfum comparison

Left arm: Kenzo Flower EDP
Right arm: Kenzo Flower Parfum

Not sure if this was mentioned in previous reviews, but these seem to be 2 different fragrances, irrelevant of concentration.

On first spray, the EDP is a bit like play-do or latex rubber. It is not as "rubbery" as the latex note I get in Sarah Jessica Parker Covet or most of the Gaultiers, and it has quite a bit a fruit up front, sort of a peach-orange combination (nectarine?) along with a synthetic floral bouquet. Ok, ok, it is a fruity floral with some lactonic "milky" quality. Within 20-30 minutes, the sharpness of the fruit & flower softens to a bit of a soapy note, and is a little bit tart or sour. In fact, it is almost a plastic smell, or maybe a bit like old lipstick (sort of waxy). It reminds me of those dolls that have scented hair. Not bad, but if I had to base my decision to purchase on this one wearing, I would give it a pass.

The parfum initially has more emphasis on the latex note with less fruit, and is more powdery with what seems to be a light amber. I would not say it is significantly heavier or stronger than the EDP. Rather, it is more resinous and rich, maybe more of an evening scent. The florals are less bright in this one, probably tempered by the amber notes. Of the two scents, it has more of the same qualities of Kenzo Amour, which I love. Unlike Kenzo Amour, Kenzo Flower Parfum penetrates my senses gradually with softness. I find it more in the "Amour" family than the special edition Indian Holi (which basically smelled like Amour with red cinnamon candle wax). However, the amber notes are not stellar, and with the sourness of the fruit and floral wafting in an out, I am not sure this one is FBW either. Having said that, it is definitely the more enjoyable of the two!

Much later: Everything has dried down nicely...even the Kenzo Flower lost its dense waxyness to reveal a soft powdery floral underneath. Unfortunately I sensed hints of ammonia, darn it all, this aromachemical sensitivity!

On first spray, I smelled almost nothing, but within 10 minutes, the fragrance started developing--a pleasant soapy, clean, white musk skin scent with a tea note. From previous wearings, I couldn't remember if the tea stayed longer in this one (in The Rouge and The Vert, the tea seems to fade really quickly). I was happy that the tea note stuck around most of the day, and have been wondering now how much this might resemble some of the Osmanthus fragrances I have been trying recently. The Blanc does not have any of the peachyness I smell in osmanthus, but the tea note is reminiscent of leather (which I also smell in osmanthus). The "whiteness" of the rest of the composition has a bit of a floral feel to it (also similar to osmanthus). It had a faint cinnamon candle wax note in the late drydown which is a disappointment--that particular note is not friendly for me.

Up to now, I had never given 31 Rue Cambon a full wearing. Also, my first sample of this fragrance was a small dabber. Now I have a slightly larger atomizer sample/decant. I am starting to learn that the best way to sample is to start with an atomizer, even if it is a very small one. The dabber just did not give me a good idea of the development. Also at the time, I did not have any decanting supplies, so I was stuck with dabbing.

Anyway, I LOVED this scent when I sampled it with the dabber. But, it seemed really short lived (maybe an hour or two). So, with my spray sample, I did my usual trick of spraying at least 4 sprays on my forearms (so the scent will be trapped by my sleeves).

The first 2 out of 4 hours are magnificient--fermented fruit and dark florals. It is as if they took the boozy part of Coco, amped it up, and reduced the powder and aldehydes. I really don't get a chypre from this at all--it really seems like a fruit/floral to me, but not in the derogatory sense of the classification.

However, after those initial hours, the scent turned sour. My skin really sucks sweetness away, so it is possibly a skin chemistry issue. It had a sort of classic or old fashioned quality--not the modern drydown I was expecting. And nothing at all like the incredible drydown of Coco. It simply smelled sour, musty and "off". That was where it stayed for the rest of the drydown (and is still detectable now, after about 12 hours).

Needless to say, having a thorough test of a fragrance in several contexts is really important, especially if it is an expensive one! I am a bit disappointed--the opening is so amazing and enticing, and the drydown really detracts from the whole experience. Still, it is quite lovely, and I can see why so many people love it.

I do not understand why this got one star in the "Perfumes: The Guide". It reminds me of the soapyness I smell in Hermes Caleche and Eau d'Hermes. It is really in line with the traditional Hermes scents. It even starts with a fabulous blast of nutty, rooty orris. In fact, I wish this initial stage would last longer. After the rooty part faded, the fragrance was a bit more of a high-frequency white floral (freesia, maybe, I am not sure). Then, late in the drydown, it was light and soapy. This fragrance stayed light and refreshing all day, even though it has several seemingly different faces.

Notes from luckyscent are: vetiver, bergamot, neroli, white cedar

I sampled this briefly some time ago, so I knew it has longevity problems. To counteract, I applied 3 sprays on each forearm (to go under my sleeves). The Vetiver top note is very true to the source, and is exactly what I want to smell in a fragrance. Unfortunately, this stage lasts only about 10 minutes. I did not really smell any neroli, but I did smell a citrus accord, probably from the combination of bergamot and neroli. It blends quite well with the white cedar. Even though the Vetiver does not contribute much after the first 10 minutes, the later stages of development are also very pleasant. In fact, I think this is what I wanted Terre d'Hermes to be. But still, I want MORE Vetiver

Bottom line: This is such a refreshing, pleasing cologne-type scent, that I could see it might be FBW despite the longevity issues.

Wow, so earthy and dirty! I definitely smell vetiver right away in this one, but a very rooty vetiver, not the salty, nutty version from Comme des Garcons Vettiveru or the essential oils I tried. Basically, the first impression is the damp roots of grass when they still have dirt on them. As the scent develops (10-30 minutes), a more herbal note comes out and covers up the dirt note a bit. This stage lasts a fairly long time, and seems to switch between the herbal and rooty. The part that made this seem more like vetiver to me is fading, but a very faint saltyness remains. And now, a bit of the nuttyness I expected is coming out a bit, but only a whisper. About an hour in, I also am starting to smell some wood, probably cedar. More than an hour...drydown has lost the "wet-dirt" quality. It is dry, herbal, woody, and only a bit of dry dirt. Very nice! For me, this one is worn more for the drydown.

In other words, I found the first hour or so very challenging, but the drydown is absolutely amazing.

Guerlain Eau de Shalimar versus Shalimar Light

Left Arm: Guerlain Eau de Shalimar EDT (the newest formulation)
Right Arm: Guerlain Shalimar Light EDT (also labeled Eau Legere Parfumee)

I have seen all kinds of confusing information about how earlier releases of a light version of Shalimar (variously called Shalimar Light and Shalimar Eau Legere) are different than the newest "light" release called Eau de Shalimar. I already had a manufacturer's sample of EdS, so in a recent order, was able to score a manufacturer's sample of SL/SEL. To clear up any packaging confusion, here is what I have...the paper folder that holds the sample of Shalimar Light has a picture of a curvy Shalimar-shaped bottle with a blue cap and blue colored glass. The juice in the vial is light honey colored, not blue. The paper folder also has BOTH names--Shalimar Light and below it, the words Eau Legere Parfumee. So, I think it is safe to assume that this Shalimar Light was the most recent release BEFORE Eau de Shalimar. Shalimar Light is available at the online discounters. Eau de Shalimar was only at department stores the last time I checked (a few months ago).

The reason for the long introduction--many people say the older version is better than the newer one. One Guerlain fan here on BN remarked that there were actually THREE releases--another Shalimar Light in a clear bottle that came before the blue bottle version, and that this juice may be different also (this would have been the very first release). At any rate, this comparison is for the 2nd and 3rd releases only. And to be very brief--after a full wearing of both, I can't tell the difference between the two. I think they are the same formula with different packaging. If there are any differences, they are so subtle as to be undetectable on my skin. The only thing I can say about it is that MAYBE the older juice was a bit more harsh, and this would probably be due to the age of the juice and its storage conditions rather than any real differences. Another BNer said it very well--buy the Shalimar Light and save a few bucks (paraphrased). I would agree with this as long as I trusted the retailer who is selling the older, discounted version.

The fragrance itself is very pleasant. It starts with a sweet and sour lemon blast that reminds me of lemonade or lemon sorbet. This sweetened lemon stage tones down very quickly and is joined by a light vanilla. I wouldn't say it is an edible lemon-vanilla combination, but it is very welcoming, refreshing, and not overly sweet. I actually wish this stage lasted for much longer--if it did, I would probably want a full bottle. Sadly, it fades within an hour, and the result is a very dusty, dry vanilla with a hint of tart lemon for the rest of the drydown. There are some florals also, but I can't distinguish any particular floral note. The effect is sort of "perfumy" (I wish I knew what actually caused the "perfumy" note in fragrances). There is also a dry, almost baby-powder note, so it is possible that the powder is what gives it that "perfumy" edge. I hesitate to say it might be orris, because most orris I have smelled is a bit sweeter and more "rooty" to me. However, orris is a good candidate for the powder note. Longevity is actually quite good. I applied the equivalent of 3 good sprays to each arm, and after 12 hours, the soft vanilla base is still apparent on my skin. Sillage is moderate--I was able to smell it when working at my desk typing or writing.

The nod to Shalimar is obvious in the drydown, especially with the light powder and vanilla. I never noticed citrus in Shalimar, but certainly Jicky has beautiful citrus in the top notes, so I see a family resemblance with the use of lemon also. On my skin, though, Eau de Shalimar is significantly drier than Shalimar or Jicky, and I am not sure I would classify EdS as an oriental. Eau de Shalimar is really more like a traditional cologne than a light oriental. I think it would be great for warm weather or day wear. It is a very solid offering by Guerlain, but I am not terribly bowled over by it. Of course, it could easily be one of those that grows on me until one day I realize I really love it.

Vetiver Tonka---ouch, near asphyxiation! I thought all the Hermessences were faint and short lived, so I poured this one on, too. The beginning is really more of a burnt caramel, probably from the Tonka. The vetiver comes out a bit later, and unfortunately, has a sort of "fennel" quality to it. That is a very unattractive scent for my skin which tends to amplify this in some scents. Then, the real bomb hit with very heavy sour (probably citrus) and woody notes along with the vetiver. Plus some smoke. It was really harsh and slightly nauseating (gave me a terrible headache). In the late drydown, the citrus lingers and smells of bug spray. I can't say I would recommend this one. It really lacks the refinement of other vetiver scents I have tried.

I am not sure I smell any vetiver! Bois 1920 as a house has a tendency to be very light, and so I really poured on the sample. However, I think all the Bois 1920 fragrances must be sprayed to get the full effect. I can't say I really know what is going on with VA, it is THAT subtle. On the plus side, the sweet amber is a light one, and could be a great day-time scent.

No.5 EDT and No.5 Eau Premiere Comparison (see No.5 Eau Premiere for an extended review which includes more about EP)

Left arm: Chanel No.5 Eau Premiere
Right arm: Chanel No.5 EDT

I own No.5, and received a healthy sized sample of Eau Premiere from the SA at Macy's. My No.5 is relatively new, so I am sure it is the latest formulation.

Upon initial application, the main distinction seems to be a vast difference in the amount of aldehydes. The Eau Premiere does have a bit of waxyness (which I am sure is also from aldehydes), but it is not the extreme level that No.5 has. Also, since the aldehydic blast is less severe in EP, some fruit and floral notes are a bit more apparent.

About 10 minutes in...the aldehydes have mostly burned off in the No.5 and are now down to a more approachable level, and ironically is less waxy than EP. The peach and white floral are coming through, along with a hint of spicyness. I cannot detect any peach in the EP. Right now it smells like a rather straight white floral with a hint of spice, and the waxy aldehyde still present. It definitely smells more "clean and modern", but so far is not as interesting as No.5. I am wondering if this really is just a No.5 without the aldehydes--any real differences are incredibly subtle.

About 30 minutes in...the No.5 has settled into its typical peach, floral, spicy skin scent (beautiful, as always). The EP still is a bit waxy, but the spicyness is coming through more. I still do not smell any peach, but rather a rubbery synthetic note (latex-like), and some light powder.

It will be interesting to see how these two wear on through the day. I can see that I might want a FB of the Eau Premiere, especially if it has decent longevity. It is definitely very "wearable". I am just not sure it has the same classic beauty of the original No.5. And owning a bottle of No.5 means I may have less of a sense of urgency about owning the EP.

No.5 EDT and No.5 Eau Premiere Comparison

Left arm: Chanel No.5 Eau Premiere
Right arm: Chanel No.5 EDT

I own No.5, and received a healthy sized sample of Eau Premiere from the SA at Macy's. My No.5 is relatively new, so I am sure it is the latest formulation.

Upon initial application, the main distinction seems to be a vast difference in the amount of aldehydes. The Eau Premiere does have a bit of waxyness (which I am sure is also from aldehydes), but it is not the extreme level that No.5 has. Also, since the aldehydic blast is less severe in EP, some fruit and floral notes are a bit more apparent.

About 10 minutes in...the aldehydes have mostly burned off in the No.5 and are now down to a more approachable level, and ironically is less waxy than EP. The peach and white floral are coming through, along with a hint of spicyness. I cannot detect any peach in the EP. Right now it smells like a rather straight white floral with a hint of spice, and the waxy aldehyde still present. It definitely smells more "clean and modern", but so far is not as interesting as No.5. I am wondering if this really is just a No.5 without the aldehydes--any real differences are incredibly subtle.

About 30 minutes in...the No.5 has settled into its typical peach, floral, spicy skin scent (beautiful, as always). The EP still is a bit waxy, but the spicyness is coming through more. I still do not smell any peach, but rather a rubbery synthetic note (latex-like), and some light powder.

It will be interesting to see how these two wear on through the day. I can see that I might want a FB of the Eau Premiere, especially if it has decent longevity. It is definitely very "wearable". I am just not sure it has the same classic beauty of the original No.5. And owning a bottle of No.5 means I may have less of a sense of urgency about owning the EP.

I asked the SA what the strength of the EP is, and she said it is "its own strength", whatever that means. I suspect it is an EDT or somewhere between and EDT and EDP--I put 2 sprays of each fragrance on each arm, and the strength, development and sillage are slightly better in the EP (but not by much). If EP is an EDP, then that may justify the price. However, performance-wise, if it behaves like an EDT...well, maybe they are asking a bit too much, then.

Update from a later wearing of Eau Premiere:

Today is the first time I have given a full wearing to No5EP. On another thread, somebody commented that this is an EDP. I do not think that is true. The SA told me it was not EDP nor EDT. My experience last week in comparing it to No.5 EDT is that they lasted and projected about the same, with No5EP having a slight edge. I really think the EP is partway between an EDP and an EDT. I had to spray 2 sprays on each arm because I could barely smell it at first. Then, with the frag under my sleeves, it lasted maybe 4 hours before it turned into mostly a skin scent.

I agree with other assessments that it is like a softer No.5. It still has some aldehydes (waxy, soapy notes), but it really does not have the sparkle or the peachyness of No5. And the spicyness which is in both frags is left a bit bare in the EP without the peach note. It is definitely more modern, but it retains its classic quality--a huge plus, I think.

If I didn't have No.5 already, I would probably get this one. But since I have No.5, I am not sure I feel any need to add EP to my wardrobe right now. Besides, a 5 oz. bottle is really outrageous.

Hermessence Ambre Narguile and Ava Luxe Ambra Tibet Comparison

Left arm: Hermes Hermessence Ambre Narguile
Notes: benzoin, labdanum, musk, vanilla, caramel, honey, sugared tonka bean, grilled sesame seeds, cinnamon, rum, coumarine and white orchids (from NowSmellThis)

Right arm: Ava Luxe Ambra Tibet (thanks to Pebbles!!!!)
Notes: Tibetan amber, cardamon, Madagascar vanilla, ambergris, civet (from Ava Luxe web site)

Both started similarly--light spice, vanilla, a touch of leather and powder. The opening of each was really enjoyable, and different from most things out there. Unfortunately, neither stayed in this sweet spot.

As I have mentioned many times before, my skin dries scents out. Both of these are supposed to be very sweet, I am sure. Reviews of AN in the directory talk about its foody, sweet, sometimes cloying qualities. Well, on me, the sweet is gone, and all I have left now is tart, dry baby powder. The top notes were gone in a flash, and the middle was bypassed, going straight to the powder. This happened within 1 hour. I applied liberally since the Hermessences are known to have poor longevity, but it did not seem to matter. For most of the rest of the drydown, I have something that smells very similar to a baby's butt. I can see how this would work with the right skin chemistry--it reminds me of Bond Chinatown and Montale Sweet Oriental Dream. It may be worth looking into it if those other fragrances are appealing.

This is the first time I have tried the Ava Luxe, and I had no idea what to expect. I applied liberally with this one also, since it didn't seem very strong right out of the vial. The opening was beautiful, and I actually prefer it to the Hermes. It is a bit less "staunch" in its minimalism, and yet retains so much charm and perhaps some innocence (if a scent can have such a quality). AT has a bit of a modern leather note similar to the sharp leather found in Ambre Russe and some of the new Parfumerie General leather scents. That seems to be just the nudge needed in the top notes to give it a bit more balance than the Hermes. I sure wish this stage lasted longer, but given the affordable price of Ava Luxe frags, maybe needing to refresh a couple times a day is not all that bad. The dry down is very straightforward--mostly a simple vanilla skinscent. But I must say it is lovely, not pretentious, and not a caricature of vanilla (which is often the case with strong vanilla scents).

Neither of these really compare to my "go to" ambers for complexity or longevity. Of what I have tried in the Hermessence line, I must question the price, given the behavior of some of the compositions. I think it is normal to expect better performance out of a high end frag, and I just have not been getting it with Hermes. For the Ava Luxe, I am reminded of Comme des Garcons--very straightforward, affordable, modern, and most important--not FUSSY. This is a line I will enjoy exploring more!

Notes: patchouli, oak, vanilla, amber, white musk, cystus ladaniferus (from luckyscent)

On first application (from a dabber), the scent is strong, sharp and rooty--the typical "head shop" patchouli. Within a few minutes, the sharpness fades, and the sweet vanilla and amber peeks out a bit. This scent is developing very quickly, and is taking on a foody and slightly metallic quality. There must be some spices in this frag, even though they are not listed. However, I have never smelled oak as a note, but I can see the resemblance of this strange foody, chewy metallic scent to the smell of oak when it is being milled in the woodshop. Needless to say, the quick development means the "head shop" quality becomes much more subdued, and the woodyness of the oak (and probably the labdanum) blend with the patchouli to balance it. I smell what seems to be that sharp leather note from Ambre Russe and Bois 1920 Real Patchouli (and several Parfumery Generale scents), too, although it is not listed.

The development seems to have slowed a bit after the first few minutes, and PL is settling into what I hope will be an earthy patchouli amber--sweet, sour, bitter, woody and resinous. I am worried about the longevity given how quickly it has changed, but that remains to be determined in a longer wearing.

Bois des Iles EDC and Parfum Comparison

Left Arm: Chanel Bois des Iles Parfum
Right Arm: Chanel Bois des Iles EDT

I applied a good sized dab of the parfum, and two very wet sprays of the EDT in an effort to equalize the two somewhat. What I noticed immediately is that the EDT had much more prominent aldehydes in the top notes. The aldehydes also are in the parfum, but are either much less in concentration, or are eclipsed by the strength of the rest of the composition. In the EDT, the aldehydes are very similar to No.5, if not the same. I think I remember reading somewhere that somebody thought BdI EDT was like a combination of No.5 and Coco. I think I can understand this comparison--the No.5 aspect is form the aldehydes, and the Coco aspect is from the spicy undertones, barely perceptible at this stage. In comparison, the spices and woods are immediately present in the parfum, and the small amount of aldehydes gives it a touch of brightness.

I think I really doused myself on both arms. Either that, or the development is slow to unfold. It took quite a while for the aldehydes to burn off (about an hour). In the process, the EDT really blossomed. I smell very ripe peach, brandy, dark rose, clove, vanilla. When I don't try to discern the separate notes, I get the "gingerbread" effect that people talk about. To me it seems more like a rum spice cake, but I suppose that is what gingerbread is, in a way. The EDT is not as woody as the parfum, and it has a bit of that sourness that I noticed in 31 Rue Cambon. Some sweet powder is also starting to come out.

The parfum is almost knocking me out, and so I think future wearings may demand a smaller dab, lol. I actually can still smell some of the aldehydes after 1 hour. But, I also smell a luscious sandalwood, vanilla, clove, dark rose, and only the tiniest hint of brandy and fruit. It does not have the same kind of "fermented" smell that the EDT has, and it is not as sweet at this stage. I don't get the gingerbread association as much, either.

I would classify the parfum as a sultry chypre in the same vein as Shiseido Feminite du Bois. I suppose I would also classify the EDT in the chypre family--only it reminds me more of Dior Dolce Vita, which has family similarities to FdB, but is much lighter in every respect. I definitely also see the resemblance to Coco, now that both the EDT and parfum have dried a bit.

Now, about an hour and a half after application--the EDT is fading. It is wearing longevity-wise as 31 Rue Cambon does. And to be honest, the drydown also smells quite a bit like 31RC, only it is much less sour (a big plus for me). The parfum is still going strong, but is opening a bit more, and the dark floral aspect is more apparent. Still no gingerbread with the parfum, but it has a way to go. I think, though, the sandalwood and vanilla will play a larger part from start to finish in the parfum. In contrast, the EDT dries to fruit, floral and powder, with only a hint of wood.

I wonder which one Luca Turin reviewed in The Guide? I give the parfum 5 stars, but I am not sure I would give the same rating for the EDT. The EDT is almost a completely different fragrance from top to bottom--the aldehydes are challenging, and I am not sure they really "fit" the composition. I really love the soft drydown of the EDT, though....

I have been thinking for a long time that this is a very close scent to Estee Lauder Bronze Goddess / Azuree Soleil (which I wore yesterday). After several back to back wearings alternating the two, my conclusion today is that they indeed have a very similar basic quality--a light floral over soft woods in the base. They even both have coconut. The difference is in the small details of the development. Azuree Soleil is coconut in the top notes, and dries to the white floral over wood with a touch of vanilla coconut. Peace has the same indolic sweet rice as Kenzo Amour in the top, dries to white floral over wood with a touch of vanilla coconut. Of the two, I think BG/AS is drier, but not by much. MPG Balenciaga was also very similar to these two, but had citrus and coconut in the top notes. For the price, though, Estee Lauder is the one that can't be beat. Still, if I didn't already have Bronze Goddess, I might rather have Kenzo Peace.

I saw on the blog NowSmellThis that this frag has been revived. The description sounded really interesting, and notes from luckyscent are:

exotic woods, spice, raisin, vine flowers, pepper, candied orange, nut, hazelnut, prune, cocoa, coffee, leather, woods, white honey, vanilla

I must admit, the candy in the candied orange is definitely dominant upon first spray. My first thought was of those sweet and tangy "Lick 'm Aid" candy packets I used to buy as a kid. It had a white candy stick that you lick, then dip into the pouches of fruit flavored sugar (grape and cherry). It was a contrast of sweet and tart, and also had a strong fruity and vanilla combination. That is my initial impression of 1270, but it is barely dry on my wrist right now. Of the notes, I'm really only getting the candied orange, white honey and vanilla. Makes me want to lick myself, lol.

Top notes are fading a little, so the more muted sweet notes are starting to come out. I smell fermented fruit, sweet wine, and a bit of leather. I can barely smell the woods, but I do get the idea of the "aged in oak" quality that wine has. From this, the wood is present in a way, even if it is not a branch or a plank. The fermented quality is a bit sour, but I get the raisin or prune notes, although to my nose it still seems very "grape". The leather adds a bit of bitter and biting quality that stings my nose a little.

Well, it has been 45 minutes now, and although the initial "candy" blast is much subdued, 1270 still smells very tart and fruity. The sweetness is really not very present for me (which is often the case), and the spices are starting to come out a bit now. It is too bad that tart candy note persists, because I can smell something caramel-like below the surface, and it does not go very well with sour candy. The vanilla is getting nice and mellow, though, which is pleasant. Still, that "in your face" tartness is doing the fragrance no favors at this point.

At the 1 hour mark--I am sad to say that this fragrance seems really confused and/or confusing. It has this gorgeous caramel, wood and wine lurking below the surface, and a really dry, puckery, fruity candy on the top keeping it from coming out. It just seems wrong! It could be my skin knocks it out of balance--I am not getting a glass of fine cognac or wine. I guess I can understand why it received mixed reviews on luckyscent. Sort of disappointing

I do not understand why I do not get a similar experience as the other reviewers AT ALL when I wear 1270. Was there a reformulation at some point?

I am rather new to the Ava Luxe line. My sense that Ava Luxe as a house is rather non-fussy still holds with LTBL. It is a vanilla-amber-musk, with vanilla being the prominent note. However, when I compare LTBL to other vanilla fragrances (Lavanilla, Maison de Vanille), I must say that LTBL does not knock me over (in other words, asphyxiate me) with the vanilla. It is not a complicated fragrance, but it is warm and pleasant, and I think probably great for layering. I can see why it is a favorite. Now I am wondering if Ava Luxe has something like Coty Wild Musk :)

This house continues to charm me with pleasing, unpretentious scents. Of those I have tried, Madame X has thus far been the most complex. I smelled: rose, sandalwood, vanilla, amber, powder, incense, patchouli, and something else I couldn't quite put my finger on, but had a sort of astringent and dry quality to it. I did not necessarily smell the notes in the stated order

Madame X reminds me a bit of Givenchy Organza Indecence, but is more dry, less spicy, less woody, and much shorter lived (after about 4 hours it is an amber-vanilla skin scent). It is a beautifully composed oriental, right smack in the middle of what I am typically attracted to. I am going to enjoy this large sample!

This review is for Habit Rouge in EDC concentration.

This one starts with citrus and leather--in the citrus, I smell mostly lemon and bergamot, and the leather is the same castoreum-type leather note that I smell in Shalimar and L'Artisan Dzing!, i.e., leather, skin, bandaid, antiseptic, and manure. There is a hint of spice and vanilla, and the citrus has a sort of woody/grassy smell also, sort of like rosewood or citronella. Overall, it smells very clean (in spite of the manure!).

As the citrus burns off, the spice becomes more prominent. Not totally out front, yet, but I think it is cinnamon. The drying citrus also increases in woodyness, and the lemon smells really juicy, like fresh lemon fruit. At this stage, the leather also comes out more, and compliments the spice very well. As time passes, the juicy, fruity part of the citrus fades, but the citrusy-woody note (rosewood) stays (it has a bit of a furniture polish vibe), and the spices increase in strength. The leather has settled into a comfortable place--less like manure, more like newly tanned hide.

More time has passed...the rosewood is still present, the spices and leather are fading. I am relieved that the cinnamon did not turn into the dreaded cinnamon candle wax note that really turns me off. Sweet resins are starting to come out more--vanilla with (probably) benzoin and maybe some sweet myrrh. I suppose the lemony part could also be from frankincense resin. It is definitely getting an "unburned incense" smell which I associate with beads of resin. HR is quite amazing--I am not sure I get the "Shalimar for Men" association I have read elsewhere, but it surely has a family resemblance. I just wish it hadn't gone by so quickly!

At any rate, there have been very few scents that I found full bottle worthy after only one wearing. Usually I go through a small sample, at least 1-2 ml before I decide. But, Habit Rouge is love at first sniff, and it is not an expensive fragrance in the EDC concentration. (PS I bought a full bottle two days later).

Recently, I've been looking at various vetiver fragrances. Up to now, the two leaders have been CdG Vettiveru and Guerlain Vetiver. I am trying to find something of a Holy Grail, something that captures the woody, nutty quality of vetiver essential oil, but in a complete composition that has good longevity.

The Malle VE starts grassy, dry and earthy, with a bit of an herbal edge which is almost like a mint or menthol. In some ways, the start is similar to MPG Route du Vetiver, but is lighter, and with an almost airy quality. As the top notes burn off, I am starting to smell the resinous nutty quality that I associate with vetiver. The airy note (almost ozonic on my skin) is getting in the way at this point. I also smell a little bit of an ammonia smell--I often get this with fragrances that have lavender or an herbal component. I hope it stays subdued as it is right now.

More time has passed, and although the vetiver is apparent, VE has become very woody and smoky. These notes were also prominent in Route du Vetiver. I must say, the VE is quite a nice fragrance, and I think among the best vetivers. However, the faint sweet, nutty and resinous quality has not really come out in this one. 4-stars for the fragrance, but my search continues.

Jicky Comparison

Left arm: Jicky EDT
Right arm: Jicky EDP

I have only worn Jicky EDT once before, and it was my first exposure to Jicky. I remember the moment so well--at first I did not know what to think of it. But within minutes, I realized that Jicky has a sort of "technicolor" development that is such an eye opener after smelling dozens of flat, linear fragrances. I am reminded of the scene in The Wizard of Oz when Dorothy lands in Oz--transported from a drab black and white world to an amazing place full of wonders and adventure. Scary to be sure, but also exciting and full of potential. However, unlike Dorothy, who was very ready to return home, I wanted the story of Jicky to continue. That first light spritz I had was painfully short-lived, and I felt like I barely had time to understand what had just happened.

Later, I read reviews about Jicky on BN and learned that many people preferred the EDP. I got a sample from TPC, and based on that experience, bought the EDP strength. So, I was left still wondering what the EDT is all about and why people thought it was different from the EDP. Now I know.

I can't say that the EDT and EDP smell radically different from each other. Most people say the EDP is "dirtier", and if your definition of dirty is "more civet", then I'd agree with that assessment. When I first sprayed the EDT, it was instantly more sweet and citrusy, alot less civet and the lavender was barely noticeable. There still is plenty of civet to be had in the EDT, but since the fragrance develops very quickly, the stage where the civet smells the strangest to me (the "moth ball" stage) is quite short. Other than that, the development seems to go quickly from the citrus top notes to a creamy middle of vanilla, lemon and light woods, and dry down is sweet vanilla. The civet does stay throughout, but it is not nearly as prominent. Development went from first spray to drydown in about 2 hours. The next day, it was completely gone.

When I first spray the EDP, I also get the gorgeous citrus notes. But at the same time, everything else was much stronger--more lavender, more patchouli, more vanilla, and more civet. It is definitely deeper and darker. The moth-ball stage lasts quite a bit longer, and the civet is more prominent from top to bottom in the EDP. But I must say, after my first couple of wearings, I really got used to the civet, and now that it has clicked for me, I enjoy and welcome this note rather than being repelled by it. It is such an integral part to Jicky's base. Development of the EDP was much slower than the EDT. Most times when I wear it at bedtime, I can still smell it the next day, although it is very soft by that point. At any rate, longevity is better in the EDP.

I can see owing more than one concentration of Jicky to suit the occasion. The EDT is perfect for day wear, and is very much like a traditional cologne with the strong citrus components being the main attraction. The EDP evokes a more pensive and relaxing feeling due to its rich base notes, and is wonderful for evening or bed-time wear. I love both of them, and now I really want to try the parfum!

I have sampled this once before, and my impression of the scent was pretty much the same then and now. Soap, soap, and more soap, and did I mention soap? It smells like Crabree and Evelyn rose soap. At the start is a bit of interesting rose--and believe me, I am a rose snob, so the rose must be top notch to even get my attention. I did smell a high quality, probably natural rose that was cool, sweet, a tiny bit spicy and a tiny bit raisiny. It was not the kind of edible/drinkable rose I really like, but it was fine and also...refined. It is possible that it did not last long because a natural oil was used. Regardless, with a line like Creed, I expect something else in the fragrance to make up for the fleeting notes, and to be honest, this one so far has not delivered.

No.88...this is the first time I sampled it, and I have really been wanting to know more about this one. I didn't know what to expect, however, the men have been talking about how it is a "masculine rose", so that is the impression I had before today. Having been disappointed by many so-called "rose" fragrances, I am open to trying almost anything where rose is the main attraction.

No.88 is really pushing me out of my typical zone of knowledge--the combination of notes is very unusual. At the start, I smelled rose, soap, patchouli, and leather. It was not the castoreum type leather I wrote about yesterday, but rather a sharp, astringent leather similar to what I have smelled in some from Parfumerie Generale and a few other scents such as Ambre Russe. As the scent developed, the rose stayed strong, and the soap faded. The leather became stronger, and along with it, a smoky, incense smell which often comes with birch tar. The drydown is soapy again, and musky. the rose has pretty much faded, and a tiny bit of the leather and incense is also still present. The musk is soft and sweet, and reminds me of the musk in Chanel Eau de Toilette drydown. I don't smell any patchouli at all now.

This scent is quite interesting. The rose is very important, but works together with the other notes, so it is not really all about rose. Rose with leather and incense is a combination I have never smelled, but I have blended my own oils using rose, sandalwood and frankincense, so it makes sense to me that a combination like this would work. Longevity is pretty good so far, but the most interesting middle phase has already gone after a few hours. I am not sure why the guide gave it only 3 stars...I think it is better than that.

Afterthoughts on the late drydown...sweet fougere, not unlike Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta. No.88 is a strange, dark, incense rose with a wonderful top to bottom composition and excellent longevity. I know nothing of the house C&S and what they were aiming for with this scent, but I think what they got is sort of like a steam-punk victoriana scent (a la Wild Wild West). I will enjoy wearing this again!

Malle Musc Ravageur and Renee Musk Comparison

Left hand: Frederick Malle Musc Ravageur (Oil)
Right hand: Renee Musk

Musc Ravageur--It has been a really long time since I have smelled MR, and only now have I had access to the fragrance again. For some reason, I thought MR was closer to MKK, but now it doesn't seem that way. At the start, I smell sweet musk and spices. The musk is like other sweet synthetic musks I have smelled, and I actually don't think it is super special. What is more special is what is with the musk, in this case, I smell cinnamon, clove, and maybe some nutmeg. It is the pumpkin-pie 1-2-3 punch, trio of spices. I suppose if MR had a little bit of fruityness, it really could be a pumpkin pie fragrance rather than a musk, but I digress. It is either fading fast, or I am getting nose fatigue. I don't detect much progression--it is pretty much staying in the synthetic musk with spices space, although the edgyness of the spices is wearing off a bit, making it a bit smoother and very warm.

Renee Musk--For some reason I remembered that this one started with a sort of pee note, and thought it might be civet. Even in Scent Bar last week, I smelled the pee note briefly when the fragrance was first sprayed on the strip. Wearing it today, what is more apparent is the poop note (aka manure), as this so-called musk is actually very leathery. It has a castoreum-like scent which includes manure, leather, bandaid/antiseptic, etc. The musk is actually very subtle, and seems to be more of a carrier for the leather. This one is also developing very quickly. The castoreum is having its typical progression away from the horse stable and more toward the leather horse saddle. The musk is nearly undetectable at this point.

I must be very honest--after trying some synthetic musk notes in the note identification project, it is clear to me that the quality and concentration of the particular musk aromachemical is of paramount importance. The synthetic musks are mostly ho-hum, with hardly any depth or breadth, so I think they 1) rely heavily on other ingredients to make them shine and/or 2) end up being used as a base because they aid in marrying notes rather than being the star attraction.

As a result, my impressions of FMMR and RM are really not so good, because I think the musks are not so good. They lack the complexity and longevity needed to be the central note in a fragrance. And the other notes which are supposedly supporting the musks are becoming insipid--it is as though they have no base notes. On final analysis, I also have to disagree with statements that FMMR and RM are the same. They do smell *similar* when first applied, but they diverge rapidly.

If I had to pick be