Fragrance Reviews by Asha

Tom Ford Amber Absolute

Notes: Frankincense, Amber, Woody Notes, Vanilla, Labdanum (from osmoz.com)

I love amber. I love amber. Did I mention I love amber? Amber Absolute is an amber lover's amber. Its primary ingredient is the woody, smoky, peppery, leathery, balsamic note labdanum. It is sweetened by vanilla which also lends its wood, hay and tobacco nature to the composition. It is made resinous with frankincense and benzoin, the frankincense adding a gorgeous smoky incense note that never smells metallic or funky. Amber Absolute is not overly complicated, but it is extremely rich, with a good balance of dry, tannic and sweet. It is amber in its most classic form. The quality of ingredients here is excellent, along the lines of Profumo Ambra Aurea, and equally satisfying. I love amber.

Parfum d'Empire Aziyade

Notes: pomegranate, crystallized date, almond, orange and prune, cardamom, cinnamon, ginger, Egyptian cumin, carob, frankincense, vanilla, Madagascar vanilla absolute, patchouli, musk, cistus (from luckyscent,com)

To my nose, Aziyade has a rough start--piercing leather and tea notes along with an almost sickening spiced and stewed fruit accord. The spice blend is actually quite nice, and contains cinnamon, clove and cardamom. The less appetizing part is a thinly sweet, waxy, inedible cherry and plum combination. Thankfully the fruit simmers down considerably within ten minutes, and this is when Aziyade takes a good turn. Think about the perfumer who created Ambre Russe in all its boozy, smoky, spicy, leathery, ambery glory, and what he might do if he wanted to make his own version of L'Artisan's Tea for Two. Here you'll find Aziyade. In fact, the middle and late drydown stages of Aziyade are far better than T42 because it does not turn to potpourri as T42 has a tendency to do. In contrast, Aziyade's drydown is a warm and pleasant light amber, lightly spiced and balsamic with labdanum and vanilla. Add to this some decent sillage, and you have a rich, spicy, smoky leather oriental which gives and gives.

Lancome Hypnose Senses EDP

Notes: Mandarin Orange, Pink Pepper, Osmanthus Blossom, Rose, Honey, Patchouli,, Rockrose, Benzoin, Tonka Bean (from osmoz.com)

Hypnose Senses bears only one familiar mark from its namesake Hypnose--VANILLA. Lots and lots of vanilla with roses, powder, generic woody notes and musk. At first, there is a nice balance between flower, fruit and the ever-present vanilla. The fragrance starts very soft and boneless, not trending in any particular direction. Soon, almost all of the distinctive notes have faded to imperceptible levels as Hypnose Senses becomes yet another powder-vanilla-amber-musk. The nod to Shalimar is quite evident. For that alone, HS is not terrible, however, with so many powdery vanilla fragrances to choose from, why settle? Try some Guerlain instead.

Lancome Hypnose EDP

Notes: Passion Flower, Sambac Jasmine, Solar Notes, Vetiver, Vanilla (from osmoz.com)

Hypnose starts with a quick blast of bergamot and tropical fruit notes, and quickly transitions into a powdery vanilla and white floral middle. There is a sweet and tart juxtaposition that is often found in feminine floral orientals of the same era--it is usually somewhat candy-like, although in Hypnose, this combination does not come across as particularly edible. Vetiver is listed in the notes, however, I do not smell anything that resembles the vetiver essential oils I have experienced. I'm pretty sure there is actually a cleaned-up vetiver and patchouli combination in Hypnose, because the fragrance has a kind of masculine "bite" in the base that is similar to other post-Angel floral orientals.. In fact, as I was catching whiffs of sillage today, I noticed that Hypnose has a kind of barbershop quality that I never noticed before. In contrast, up close, the overall impression is billowy sweet vanilla, as feminine as it could possibly be. The base continues with sweet, soft vanilla, a nondescript amber accord and the vetiver-patchouli. I know that Hypnose is not universally liked, but I have always found it very enjoyable. It is not quite as "girly" as some floral orientals, and pulls the Angel-like feminine-over-masculine structure down to an palatable level. Perhaps this makes Hypnose more bland, but it also makes it more wearable.

Serge Lutens Musc Kublai Khan

Notes: civet, castoreum, costus roots, cumin, labdanum, Moroccan rose, ambergris, ambrette seeds, beeswax, vanilla and patchouli (from nstperfume.com)

Musc Kublai Khan starts as an animalic one-two-three punch, rife with large doses of civet, castoreum and indolic floral notes. The opening is incredibly intoxicating: the civet lends a fecal edge verging on sweet; the leathery castoreum smells of rootbeer and bitter plant tonics; and the indolic notes balance the first two with a vanillic "wet cardboard" quality which adds some dimension and uniformity to the opening accord. I suspect there is also some honey or blackcurrant bud, as there is a slight urinous edge as well. Sadly, this amazing animalic orchestra begins to fade very quickly, allowing the honey/blackcurrant bud note take on a piercing quality. I presume this is the "dirty underwear" accord many people seem to find in MKK. The much maligned cumin comes out a bit later in the middle development as MKK rounds out and starts to smell slightly more leathery and skin-like. I must say, so far MKK ALMOST holds up to the skankiest vintage fragrances I have tried such as Jean Desprez Bal a Versailles extrait or Dana Tabu. Actually, I find MKK to be considerably cleaner smelling than those great classics. This is reinforced by the fact that, to my nose, the base is a soapy white musk blended with a vanilla-prominent amber. Generally speaking, the older formulae I have tried seem to have warmth and character which MKK lacks. Still, MKK is an extremely well-composed, smooth oriental which carries forth an established tradition using modern ingredients--one could do a whole lot worse. Highly recommended.

Serge Lutens Daim Blond

Notes: Iris Pallida, apricot kernel, cardamom from Ceylon, musk, heliotrope, hawthorn (from luckyscent.com)

Daim Blond is an oriental leather scent--very modern, soft, almost edible and really unlike many leathers which tend to be a dry green-gray chypre type of fragrance. Accompanying the leather accord, DB starts with balanced boozy sweetness from apricot fruit, soft, buttery florals and an almond note. The apricot-leather combination is evocative of other leathery fragrances which use osmanthus flower (Parfums d'Empire Osmanthus Interdite, The Different Company Osmanthus), but the accord in DB is deeper and more mellow while maintaining delicacy and weightlessness. In the mid notes, DB becomes more woody and nutty, with a saltiness that gives an impression of popcorn and salted cashews. As this salty accord develops, it becomes increasingly like the sensual salty skin scent which occurs after fresh sweat dries. The salty, buttery and nutty notes persist into the base, which is composed of sweet musk and Iso E Super. Overall, DB has moderate sillage and longevity, and is somewhat linear in development--as such I suggest sampling for a while before buying, in case DB's linear nature becomes boring. Its softness makes it suitable for men or women. Generally, though, Daim Blond is a very enjoyable fragrance that charms with subtleness and grace.

DSquared^2 She Wood

Notes: lemon, jasmine, neroli, violet, heliotrope and musk, cedar, vetiver and vegetable amber (from www.nstperfume.com)

She Wood has to be one of the least pleasant fruity-floral-woody-oriental fragrances I have ever experienced. It has wet, aquatic notes up front that are like a combination of watermelon juice and ozone, made sour by something that reminds me of Jolly Rancher Green Apple candy. Next is a headache-inducing accord of dryer-sheet white florals blended with bitter wood notes and some spicy clove. Overall, She Wood is an absolutely nauseating fragrance that is full of jarring juxtapositions that all work against each other. This is a scrubber.

Gucci Envy

Notes: Hyacinth, Magnolia, Lily of the Valley, Jasmine, Violet, Iris (from sephora.com)

I have to be very honest. I do not smell anything like what is listed in the notes for Gucci Envy. When I first spray it, I smell something like waxed Granny Smith apples and plastic screechy florals. In the drydown I smell vestiges of the plastic top notes along with an extremely "perfumey" synthetic powder note and nondescript sweet musk. I can't say it is completely unpleasant, but here's what's really interesting about Envy...Envy smells like the fragrance counter at Macy's. In other words, it smells like a cloud of fragrance which is composed of countless spray-testing all the more recent fragrances available at a mid-level department store. This is the PURE ESSENCE OF MALL smell. I have to give some kudos for being able to bottle such a nebulous thing. It's definitely not for me, but I can understand the appeal.

Lolita Lempicka

Notes: Ivy Leaves, Aniseed, Amarena Heart, Violets, Iris Roots, Vetiver, Tonka Bean, Vanilla, Musk (from sephora.com)

Lolita Lempicka is absolutely delicious upon first application--it is difficult to resist an accord of chocolate, caramelized sugar and licorice which is actually dry and a bit crisp, miles away from the typical heavy, sweet and edible vanilla gourmand. The foody notes are supported by green fruit and herbal notes which amazingly seem to evoke the sense of garden freshness and bitter roots with what are obviously synthetic ingredients. The base buzzes along on a big cloud of Iso E Super, but this is one composition where the Iso E works as a team member rather than a cheap one-dimensional filler. In the drydown, LL bears some similarities to Bulgari Black...makes sense given LL is composed by the same perfumer. LL has the same edgy vanilla-musk accord which makes BB stand out from the vanilla oriental crowd. Despite being marketed to women, I find Lolita Lempicka to be solidly unisex. LL is one of those stand-out fragrances that everybody should experience, even if you never consider adding it to your wardrobe.

Jo Malone White Jasmine & Mint EDC

Notes: jasmine, lily, orange flower, rose, mint (from jomalone.com)

Yes, White Jasmine & Mint contains MINT--creamy, slightly cooling, on the verge of being edible, but thankfully not like any toothpaste I've ever encountered. The jasmine note is rather abstract. In fact, Jo Malone's own Orange Blossom smells more of jasmine than WJM does. Later in the development, some of the same orange blossom note used in Orange Blossom EDC comes forth, and is substantially more subtle here than in OB. Overall the fragrance is pleasant--light, rather clean for a jasmine fragrance, and a tad soapy. WJM is incredibly short lived with very little sillage. It is a great alternative to the scads of "clean" scents on the market, but is still a bit of a wallflower fragrance. Its ability to stay in the background and not make much of a statement could work for some who are tired of fragrances like Bulgari Eau Parfumee au The Vert.

Jo Malone Pomegranate Noir EDC

Notes: raspberry, plum, pink pepper, pomegranate, patchouli, frankincense, spicy woods (from jomalone.com)

I have smelled pomegranates before--fruit, seed, juice and also oil pressed from the seeds. None of what I have smelled from real pomegranate smells like Pomegranate Noir. What I do smell is a very heavy spicy accord of cinnamon, clove, cardamom and cedar wood. If there is any fruit here, it is completely overwhelmed. The fragrance is not really dark as in "noir", but it is rather heavy compared to many other Jo Malone fragrances, and it is a bit sickening due to its poorly judged proportion of spice. In other words, PN lacks complexity, deftness and balance. Despite the heavy spice accord and woody notes, there is no real substance to speak of. If hamster cages were lined with cinnamon along with the typical cedar shavings, this is what it would smell like. It is a scrubber.

Jo Malone Orange Blossom EDC

Notes: clementine leaves, orange blossom, water lily (from jomalone.com)

Orange Blossom starts with juicy sweet orange, bergamot and orange blossom. The combination is classic and a tad soapy, however, there is an unexpectedly tenacious indolic edge to the orange blossom which keeps the fragrance from being too clean. The indoles are rather fecal in this composition, and at first adds a welcome complexity to a fragrance that would otherwise be very dull. Unfortunately, after a bright beginning, all the tangy, sweet, creamy qualities fade away, the fragrance loses its balance, and turns into a screechy white floral with fecal notes that challenge the most die-hard civet lover. The indole in OB does not develop the way natural indoles would, so the accord never loses its rawness. That is to say, OB smells strongly of bleu cheese crumbles, mothballs and urine from start to finish. When there is nothing left to balance and blend with the indoles, OB is not enjoyable anymore. Longevity is too long, all things considered--the indoles are going strong after six hours. Sillage is surprisingly strong, perhaps not a good thing. I am convinced the only way to wear this fragrance is to layer it, probably with another Jo Malone offering.

Jo Malone Lime Basil & Mandarin EDC

Notes: lime, mandarin, basil, white thyme (from jomalone.com)

Upon first application of Lime Basil & Mandarine, surprise of surprises, I smell lime, basil and mandarin. The mandarin is very subtle, bowing to the more prominent lime citrus note, which is tangy and bitter, more like lime rind than the fruit. The herbal component is obviously more than just basil, although the basil note is very minty, leafy and somewhat juicy. Along with the basil is something I was not expecting--cilantro, a.k.a. coriander leaf. Once LBM develops past the initial opening accord, the mandarin fades to almost nothing, and I feel as if I am covered in Cuban Mojo marinade sauce. (For those who are interested, my Mojo recipe includes lime juice, orange juice, olive oil, fresh cilantro, salt, pepper and garlic.) I was wondering where the garlic might be in LBM. I never encountered any, but I did notice a curious fenugreek funk in the mid notes. I was wavering between loving and hating the fragrance because of its obvious foody connotations. In the end decided that LBM is a thoroughly enjoyable herbal cologne, with a lovely creamy, woody amber-musk drydown and some kind of mossy ingredient that keeps the base from being too sweet. For an EDC, the longevity has been very good, around five hours. Sillage is moderate. Lime Basil & Mandarin is wearable for both men and women, but edges more toward the masculine.

Lalique Flora Bella

Notes: vanilla, almond, amber and musk notes (from fragrancenet.com)

To my nose, Flora Bella smells like a cross between Dior's Poison and Lancome Hypnose. The light tuberose note in the top and mid notes reminds me of Poison, while a vanilla powder and clean vetiver combination is evocative of Hypnose. It is pleasant, although FB certainly does not have much to distinguish itself from the huge field of soft and sweet modern feminine floral-orientals. Since both Poison and Hypnose entered my consciousness long before Flora Bella, I must give them the proper due. Having said that, FB is a very well constructed fragrance--it is balanced, subdued and modern, and is certainly not the worst offering of its kind. Flora Bella is probably one of those fragrances that will appeal to individual tastes rather than have broad acceptance or widespread buzz. It is definitely worth a try for lovers of the milky vanilla over amber, clean floral-oriental genre, or anybody who wants a toned-down tuberose fragrance.

Lalique Tendre Kiss

Notes: nutmeg, pepper, musk and amber (from fragrancenet.com)

Tendre Kiss starts fresh with green herbal notes and citrus, but soon turns into "wet dog" on my skin. There is also an unappetizing ozone-aquatic note mixed with spearmint and peppermint. As the "wet dog" note settles down, turning a bit to the smell of wet sheep's wool, TK becomes more salty and nutty, with nondescript woody base notes (probably Iso E Super, because it is giving me a headache). TK is certainly not what I expected, considering the label reads "...a transparent and sparkling fragrance...." At any rate, the drydown is much drier with more prominent woods and leather. Still not transparent and sparkling, but a huge relief from the initial animalic weirdness. In fact, the salty leather, herbs and woods of the mid to late drydown are actually quite pleasing. Thumbs down for an inexcusably lop-sided composition that is half-way to Etat Libre d'Orange's Secretions Magnifique for the first part of the development and an overdose of unimaginative, banal woody aromachemicals for the latter part.

By Kilian Liaisons Dangereuses

Notes: Coconut flesh, prune absolute, plum, blackcurrant buds absolute, crystallized peach, cinnamon bark oil, ambrette seeds absolute, rose Damascus, geranium bourbon, Australian sandalwood oil, oakmoss extract, vetiver java oil, clear woods, vanilla extract, white musks (from luckyscent.com)

Liaisons Dangereuses is a feminine rose done with a twist. The fragrance starts sweet and powdery, with a floral vanilla vibe that recalls pretty dusting powders that ladies of yore always had at their dressing tables. And yet, LD seems completely modern and fresh, rather than being heavy or musty. Joining the vanilla powder accord is a delectable fruit and rose accord which is so juicy and jammy as to make ones mouth water with the anticipation of tasting it. Despite what sounds like it could provide a high-octane sugar rush, LD is actually quite mellow and controlled. There are no shrill notes screaming out of control. There is no heavy handed spice or wood. There are no "fad" accords or notes to speak of. The fragrance is in perfect balance--the sugar well tempered with the right amount of acidity, fruit and bitterness. In the later development, LD becomes more spicy, woody, tannic and dry--a lovely finish that is a great counterpoint to the top and mid notes. The drydown accord allows a different, more sombre side of the rose come forth, a welcome respite after all that came before. Overall, LD has a wonderful classic sensibility that is complex but not dated, and a modernity that avoids being trite, minimalist or simplistic.

Diptyque L'Ombre dans l'Eau

Notes: black currant leaves and Bulgarian rose (from luckyscent.com)

Despite the meagre listing of notes, to my nose L'Ombre dans l'Eau starts as a bright and uplifting blend of grapefruit, tart berries and rose. The rose is very classical, akin to an old-fashioned rosewater or French milled rose scented soaps, that is to say, "tea rose" or similar. The rose note is very evocative of the type of rose soliflore that make most people hate rose soliflores. Yet, here in L'Odl'E, the rose is brightened marvelously with sour and bitter grapefruit and berry notes. This is one of those synergistic blends where it is possible to recognize the component parts and still appreciate the whole composition which becomes more than the sum of its parts. Classic rose is modernized and made low calorie, in a sense, by the use of fresh fruits. The grapefruit does get a bit sulfurous in the drydown, and I was thinking at first that it was off-putting. Then I realized that paired with the liquor-like rose note, this edginess makes the rose seem even more luscious. It is as if the rose is on the verge of that extremely full-bodied stage of being fermented while still on the stem. The drydown is quite a bit more herbal and green, giving an impression of rose geranium. My only real complaint is that overall the fragrance is a bit linear and not terribly complex. Regardless, this is probably what Hermes Eau de Pamplemousse Rose should have been--it is clear that grapefruit and rose can be very good friends.

Diesel Fuel for Life

Notes: Cassis, Pink Pepper, Jasmine, Indole, Patchouli, Ambry Notes (from osmoz.com)

Many people know that I am a complete patch-head. So, give me a patchouli-centered fragrance, especially a decent one, and I'll pay attention. I first tried Fuel for Life when it debuted, went through two spray samples, enjoyed it very much, but did not buy a full bottle. Fast forward to today, and I still really like the astringent, slightly camphoraceous patchouli which is melded with some kind of indolic tropical flower, fermented, half-rotted melon and sour fruit notes. Overall, the fragrance is quite linear, and is definitely not the most artistic scent out there. But, what can I say? Sometimes a fragrance does not have to be a masterpiece in order to be satisfying. Perhaps if Guerlain had bottled this, it would not have been relegated to the bottom shelf.

Positive Rating

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Diesel Fuel for Life Unlimited

Notes: Lemon, Mandarin, Pear, Guava, Violet, Aloe, Sambac Jasmine, Lily, Anise, Licorice, Sandalwood (from sephora.com)

After trying Fuel for Life, I half expected Fuel for Life Unlimited to be an ultra-special rendition of its namesake. In reality, I can't say it does much to enhance the aura of the original. However, it is rather pretty and feminine, perhaps a bit more rounded for times when the patchouli and funky fruit combination of Fuel for Life is a bit too weird. Indeed, FFLU pulls back from the edge, and falls smack into a land of plentiful and ordinary fruity floriental fragrances. Having said that, FFLU is definitely not the worst of the bunch, and thankfully has not taken a ride on the grapefruit, soap and air freshener bus as do many "clean and fresh" flankers to oriental bombshells. The sour citrus notes of FFLU are subdued, and the fluffy marshmallow cloud of vanilla woods is allowed to be mostly that--soft and creamy, sweet with a bit of an astringent edge. FFLU is nice but nothing outstanding, and definitely not as daring as the original.

Neutral Rating

Ed Hardy Women

Notes: bergamot, blood orange, red sake accord, black currant, pink peppercorn, nectarine, jasmine, forbidden plum, sensual musk, cedarwood, sandalwood and patchouli (from macys.com)

This has to be the fragrance that wins the prize for smelling the most like a Jolly Rancher candy. It is mouth puckeringly sour with a huge dose of a synthetic, nondescript "red" fruit flavor that seems part way between watermelon and strawberry. I suppose this is what might happen if you take Miss Dior Cherie and amplify the fruit without attempting to create any kind of balance or structure. The sour fruit is backed by a sugary and diaphanous vanilla-wood note, similar to many other woody orientals on the market, but not nearly as well done. Although I dislike Miss Dior Cherie on my skin, it is a much better composition--skip the Ed Hardy and go for the Dior.

Bulgari Omnia Green Jade

Notes: Spring Water, Green Mandarin, White Peony, Nasturtium, Pear Tree Flower, Jasmine Petals, Fresh Pistachio, White Woods, Musk (from sephora.com)

Omnia Green Jade is done in the typical restrained style that most other Bulgari fragrances (except Black) seem to have. To my nose, tea is the central accord, and is obvious from the start. There is also a doughy, powdery, almond-vanilla, rubbery note that I have smelled in various sweet oriental fragrances. The tea is what anchors the composition as its sharp leather-tobacco edge cuts through the shapeless dough note. Soft Iso E Super woods hum along in the base. OGJ is extremely light and fleeting. It makes me think of a toned-down Kenzo Amour with tea added. Perhaps it shares more kinship to Black that I am willing to admit, since I also find OGJ a bit like Black but without any of the character. I find that Black puts my teeth on edge every time I smell it, so I can't say that a de-fanged version is all bad.

Profumum Ambra Aurea

Notes: grey amber absolute (from luckyscent.com)

I'm pretty sure that grey amber is not the only ingredient in Ambra Aurea. I smell an absolutely huge balsamic and leathery labdanum note that follows the fragrance from beginning to end. In fact, AA is a deep amber color which could stain if sprayed on clothing, and I suspect the color comes mostly from its high labdanum content. Along with the labdanum, I smell vanilla, woods and incense, the latter being quite metallic and smoky. Ambra Aurea is extremely rich and warm, with excellent longevity and sillage. The incense and woods give the fragrance a bit of a head shop vibe, indeed, AA reminds me of a type of premium amber incense I used to burn long ago. Despite this association, Ambra Aurea seems so incredibly luxurious with what I can only assume are high quality ingredients. The balsamic notes are well balanced with some restrained sweetness from the vanilla, and the woody, smoky notes add a smidgeon of bitterness and piquancy. Perhaps the fact that the ingredients speak for themselves is the reason why any association with hippie ambers can be forgiven. Ambra Aurea satisfies in the way that feasting on a fine meal eases hunger--it feeds both the body and the soul.

Farmacia SS. Annunziata dal 1561 Ambra Nera

Notes: cypress, eucalyptus, amber, benzoin, vetiver, vanilla, patchouly (from luckyscent.com)

Ambra Nera starts with a combination of burnt sugar, smoke and vanilla. At first it seems as though AN will be a sweet, edible amber with lots of fluff and such. As it turns out, the caramel note is rather short lived, and what is revealed underneath is a delicate yet raunchy animalic, incensy amber. Indeed, I smell urinous notes, leather and the metallic tinge of smoky incense over a base of creamy, powdery vanilla, ample benzoin and a healthy, yet not overdone, dosage of labdanum. If there is patchouli in this fragrance, it is very well blended and barely recognizable as such. I was expecting AN to be close to some offering from Profumum, as the two houses seem to have parallel fragrance lines. In actuality, Ambra Nera smells more like Parfumerie Generale L'Ombre Fauve, especially in the middle and late stages. I happen to prefer L'Ombre Fauve by quite a bit, however, Ambra Nera is an interesting amber, especially for those who might like something funky. Its tendency is a bit toward the sweet side, which may make it seem a bit feminine, despite the raging animalics at the start of the development. Longevity is good--time to the deep drydown is approximately five hours. Sillage is moderate, especially toward the end.

Hermes Un Jarden Apres la Mousson

Notes: Sweet Lime, Ginger, Green Notes, Coriander, Pepper, Cardamom seed, Aquatic Notes, Vetiver, Longose (from osmoz.com)

Un Jardin Apres la Mousson begins with a surprising juxtaposition of watery vegetables reminiscent of cucumber and lettuce, along with cantaloupe melon, green herbs, tomato stem and peppercorn. UJAlM is pleasant at first, and is quite a good balance of sweet, watery and green notes. All too soon, however, the balance goes out of whack, and the melon note, which is really not that appetizing on its own, soon starts to take over. Combined with the tomato stem accord, the effect is sticky, ozonic and bitter. All the worst traits of a poorly done aquatic come to the fore, while the tomato stem becomes as awkward as a giant boil on the middle of one's forehead. The herbal component is an attempt at a sort of "herbs de provence" cooking mixture, which in itself is really not bad. However, the aromatic herb accord really doesn't do much to salvage the kindred tomato stem. The drydown is soapy and slightly woody, with a lingering herb and tomato stem blend which gives a bitter, powdery effect. Once the melon is gone in this late stage, UJAlM becomes more tolerable, but is also a bit boring. This is one case where I am thankful for short longevity.

Hermes Un Jardin sur le Nil

Notes: Green Mango, Grapefruit, Calamus, Lotus, Sycamore, Frankincense (from osmoz.com)

Un Jardin sur le Nil is a refreshing blast of fresh citrus--orange, mandarin and bergamot--along with some green herbal notes, sweet vanilla and a nondescript woody accord. I am guessing UJslN contains Iso E Super, judging from a newly forming headache that started after I sprayed. This is rather disappointing, as the fragrance is developing quite nicely at the start. In some ways, it reminds me of the lovely, juicy mandarine accord of Guerlain's Mandarin Basilic, but anchored a bit more with heavier herbs that border on being spicy. The drydown comes rather quickly, and is not nearly as enjoyable. It is composed of some bitter, sulfuric grapefruit components, traces of the original herbal melange, woods and a leathery masculine musk. Hermes' own Eau d'Orange Verte is a much better option for a green citrus scent--UJslN eventually smells more like a chemical cocktail than a citrus Cologne.

L'Artisan Tea for Two

Notes: ginger, cinnamon, green anise, honey, vanilla (from luckyscent.com)

Tea for Two starts with a smoky, leathery and slightly fruity tea accord. The smoke note is a bit plastic smelling, similar to how synthetic birch tar sometimes smells. It is a bit petrochemical but not off-putting. As the smoky note attenuates in the first ten minutes, some faintly sweet, powdery vanilla and a spice blend of cinnamon and clove come forward. This is considerably more gourmand that I expected, and heavier than most other L'Artisan fragrances I have tried. In the middle to late development, it is quite delicious, a sort of Chai Tea made from tarry black Lapsang Souchong. I absolutely adore this stage which is blissfully long-lived on my skin (about two hours). The leather illusion is rather complete, and is not really hinted at in the published notes. The tea actually takes on more of a support role, which is quite good considering the tea accord on its own can become a bit boring at best and annoyingly irritating at worst. The only real complaint I have about T42 is that the cinnamon note eventually starts to resemble either potpourri or a scented candle, depending on your perspective. This happens in the late drydown when many of the other ingredients have faded. Still, I find T42 to be one of the better offerings from this house, and recommend it for male or female lovers of leather, tea or spicy fragrances.

Natori Natori

Notes: aldehydes, rose, plum, ylang-ylang, purple peony, night-blooming jasmine, patchouli, amber and satin musk accord (from Now Smell This)

Milky aldehydes, brandied cherries, rose and amber are the notes that I notice most in Natori. It is a beautifully composed, rich feminine floral with one foot in the classical genre and another in the modern day. Several different fragrances came to mind as I experienced the development. Natori's creamy, aldehydic rose is evocative of YSL Rive Gauche. The boozy aspect and rose-amber drydown reminds me of Chanel Coco's liquored floral heart and spicy sweet finish. The deep drydown is is incredibly enjoyable with something that seems a bit like tart rose-hip preserves and very subtle vanilla powder notes, not unlike By Kilian's Liaisons Dangereuses. The overall effect is reminiscent of Chanel 31 Rue Cambon but without the soured fruit.

There is nothing really innovative about Natori, and it most definitely hits all the right buttons for a modernized take on a traditional fragrance form. I was wondering if I should stop comparing it to other fragrances and simply enjoy it on its own merits. On the other hand, there are days when any of the comparison fragrances I mentioned are not quite right--Rive Gauche may be too dated, Coco too loud, Liaisons Dangereuses too expensive and 31 Rue Cambon a bit off-putting, depending on skin chemistry. In this sense, Natori finds a comfortable intersection of "just right" that makes it an incredibly wearable, delicate but substantial, lovely and feminine fragrance.

True Religion

Notes: Bergamot, Mandarin, Violet Leaves, Granny Smith Apple, Red Currant, Freesia, Pear Tree Blossom, Amaryllis, Purple Plum, Hinoki Wood, Ambrette Musk, Blond Cedar Wood (from Sephora.com)

True Religion starts very bright and cheerful, with a splash of blended citruses, juicy, fruity apple and peach or nectarine, and a watery aquatic note. The citrus (bergamot, orange) fades rather quickly, leaving a banal peach-water with aspirations for an inexpensive scented shower gel or hair care product. Something about TR seems familiar--perhaps it is the peachy note which seems to show up in quite a few "fresh floral" fragrances for women (the new Zen limited release in the white cube comes to mind). After the initial fizzy citrus blast, the development is monotonous and flat. The base is a clean soapy musk accord and a huge dollop of IsoESuper. Add this to the list of mediocre "fresh" smelling scents that could have been a shampoo.

Guerlain Attrape Coeur

Notes: rose, violet, iris, vanilla, woods, amber (from perfumeshrine.com)

Attrape Coeur starts as a dark and rich, slightly dirty floral with clove, liquored rose, powdery iris, vanilla and sweet amber as the main notes. Development is extremely slow and graceful on skin, and the indoles are the first things to soften as AC moves to a lush, creamy, boozy, spicy rose bouquet in the heart notes. In the late middle stage, there is some artificial bitterness that seems inappropriate to the composition--I have noticed this mostly in mainstream floral-orientals (Rochas Tocade is an example). In AC, it does not detract very much from my enjoyment, though I think this would have been an almost perfect fragrance if not for the bitter note. The drydown is absolutely gorgeous, and is a vaguely spicy, floral, vanilla feminine "guerlinade" of typically high calibre.

I agree with comments I have seen that compare AC with Chanel 31 Rue Cambon. However, AC is much dirtier, less iris-pronounced, and the sour fruit note present in 31RC is better tempered in AC. I find both fragrances beautiful, but Attrape Coeur behaves much better on my skin. AC falls squarely onto the line between floral and oriental, a genre that I love for its complexity. In that sense, AC does not disappoint, and yet, despite having a seemingly unfathomable depth bordering on melancholy, Attrape Coeur is as quiet, lighthearted and unassuming as the Mona Lisa's smile in DaVinci's famous painting.

Lalique White

Notes: lemon leaves, tamarind, bergamot, violet, white pepper, nutmeg, cardamom, amber, cedar, musk (from Now Smell This)

Lalique White starts with a strange woody-citrus-aquatic accord, a combination of grapefruit, metallic ozone, laundry soap and generic woods, all of which smells as disjointed as it sounds. In the hopes that it might improve, I let it ride. Eventually a nice vetiver shows itself, but by this time I have lost all interest. Unfortunately, White seems like it might have been in a round of Terre d'Hermes rejects. It smells artificial and slapped together, with hints of household air freshener aromachemicals. The late drydown is somewhat interesting with its subtle vetiver and creamy wood. However, I am not willing to wait six hours for a finish that is done a hundred times better in Tom Ford's Grey Vetiver.

Hermes Eau de Gentaine Blanche

Notes: gentian, white musk, iris and incense (from NowSmellThis.com)

I must admit--to my knowledge, I have never smelled gentian in a fragrance. As a green fragrance lover, though, I am completely enthralled by the opening bitter green and woody accord which I can only assume is the gentian. The gentian is joined by some abstract, creamy floral with a "wet paper" quality which may indicate it is a light indolic such as jasmine. Whatever the opening notes are, they are magnificent and cruelly short lived. Within twenty minutes, the glorious melange starts to turn peppery with powdery orris. This is the same peppercorn and hot-pepper accord found in Hermessence Paprika Brasil, and is quite warm in comparison to the refreshing top notes. The pepper and orris are long lived and ride along while the gentian and florals fade in a linear manner. The deep drydown is mostly pepper and a light, sweet musk. Of the two Hermes Eaux releases this year (the other being Eau de Pamplemousse Rose), I find EdGB more satisfying. However, I am frustrated that the green notes I enjoy so much in the beginning development are extremely fugitive. I'm not sure EdGB would benefit with lavish application, because I can imagine the pepper being quite overbearing. This is a must-try for green fragrance lovers, and is suitable for men or women.

Hermes Eau de Pamplemousse Rose

Notes: grapefruit, orange, rose, rhubofix, vetiver (from NowSmellThis.com)

Eau de Pamplemousse Rose is a modern take on traditional Eau de Cologne. It starts with bright and bitter citrus, dominated by grapefruit and balanced with lemon and lime. There is hardly any rose to be found, although there is a vague sense of fresh petals, even if the accord is not distinct enough to be recognized as rose. As with most cologne waters, EdPR is fleeting, refreshing, not terribly complex and short-lived. The grapefruit does stick around for longer than expected and does not turn into a sulfuric odor as many grapefruit oriented fragrances do. As the opening citrus accord mellows, EdPR turns a bit powdery, somewhat reminiscent of its sister scent, Eau d'Orange Verte. However, EdPR is not as "green" overall--the powdery notes are less mossy and more like subtle florals mixed with orris root. Light grapefruit and powder is the final drydown stage which arrives within twenty minutes. The remainder of the development is simply a linear fade-out of this accord. Anybody who loves the Eau de Cologne genre would find EdPR to be not only acceptable, but perhaps also a welcome alternative to the typical offering. Although the composition is relatively solid and the fragrance fulfills all its requirements as a cologne water, it does not sing in the same way that its inspiration, Eau d'Orange Verte, does. Certainly it is a must-try for grapefruit lovers, and is suitable for men or women.

Issey Miyake A Scent

A Scent starts very green and a bit watery. Galbanum and citrus notes are the main players at first, and there is a slight "acetone" quality as mentioned by others. Remarkably, it is really only a touch of acetone, and to my nose does not overpower the other notes. However, sensitive individuals should beware and test on paper before applying to skin. A Scent was relatively well behaved on me--it is a very decent, although thoroughly synthetic-smelling fragrance in which the galbanum is the only shining star. The rest of the notes are rather nondescript, and include blended springtime white florals and soapy white musk. A Scent reminds me very much of Estee Lauder's products--that is to say, yet another variation on a "laundry soap" floral that Estee Lauder revolutionized many years ago. For green floral scents, I'd rather spend my money on Diorella, Chanel Cristalle or Estee Lauder's Private Collection Jasmine White Moss. A Scent is simply not anywhere near the quality of these other fragrances, and it is not nearly as enjoyable.

Longevity was moderate, the galbanum goodness faded within a couple hours leaving bland florals and musk skin scent for the rest of the day. Sillage was moderate to low. At first AS seems like it could be a unisex fragrance, but the midnotes are decidedly floral, giving the fragrance a tendency toward the feminine. It is worth a try for anybody who likes light, fresh, green and clean fragrances. And to be honest, despite the uninspired composition, AS is better than most others in the "fresh and clean" category.

Eau d'Orange Verte begins with juicy orange, lemon peel and bergamot, a beautifully balanced Eau de Cologne. As with the EdC genre, Ed'OV is incredibly short lived and with very low sillage. The citrus blend is a refreshing burst that immediately begins to attenuate, revealing a slightly sweet leathery musk, a gentle herbal accord (rosemary, mint, oakmoss) and some faint woody notes. Nothing seems out of place here, and the ingredients are of a high calibre--no excessive soapyness or harshness to be found. There are some similarities to Miller Harris Tangerine Verte, however Ed'OV seems more classic and refined, even if it does not last nearly as long. Ed'OV is marketed as a unisex fragrance, although the leathery musk and herbal ingredients push this fragrance a bit to the masculine side. This is a great choice for warm weather, and an excellent example of the traditional Cologne style.

Badgley Mischka

Notes: red wild berries, peach, cinnamon, osmanthus, white peony, jasmine, suede musks, indian sandalwood, caramel amber, patchouli (from badgleymischka.com)

To my nose, Badgley Mischka is composed of super sweet florals with mixed berries, soft wood, vanilla and clean patchouli. It reminds me of a better version of Miss Dior Cherie--it is just as sweet and powdery as any of this type, and although it eventually acquires a bitter edge similar to MDC, it is better balanced overall. As Badgley Mischka develops, the fruit takes on a liquored quality, sweet and tart, slightly fermented yet clean and rich. The florals are thoroughly blended and without an indole in sight. The powdery, woody patchouli base is astringent almost to the point of being leathery. As far as fruity-floral-patchouli fragrances go, Badgley Mischka seems to be extremely wearable, not as overpowering as Angel and more carefully composed than most post-Angel wannabe's. It's not really my style, but so far, this is one of the only gourmand fragrances that has tempted me to give in to this modern feminine genre. It is hardly surprising, as it strikes me that if one were to take Chanel Coco (one of my favorites) and make it a modern feminine gourmand, this would be it. Badgley Mischka seems to share more DNA with Coco than any other Chanel creations, including Coco Mademoiselle. The sillage is strong, and longevity is very good.

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Laurier-Reglisse

Notes: Bay Leaf, Licorice, Amber, Violet, Bergamot, Orange Blossom (from Sephora.com)

The first ten minutes of Laurier-Reglisse are quite scrumptious--blended citrus, petitgrain, white florals, vanilla, and nondescript synthetic sandalwood with a vaguely watery quality that provides freshness without being one of the much maligned aquatic genre. Despite the name, I do not smell any laurel or bay, but there is an herbal tone to the fragrance. Unfortunately, as the appealing citrus notes start to fade, the "fresh" ingredient starts to smell a bit of ozone, and is rather poorly placed in relation to LR's green-herbal context. Soon after, the sandalwood takes on a plastic hairspray quality that I have noticed in some other fragrances, notably very cheap drugstore offerings. Thankfully the plastic and ozone settles eventually, and the base contains more pleasant levels of the "fresh" note along with the faint woods and an ubiquitous clean musk. LR is a better fragrance than Chanel Cristalle Eau Verte for green freshness that is on the synthetic side. However, there are much better green fragrances to be had, including some of the previously discontinued Aqua Allegorias. As with most of the AA's, LR is short lived, with minimal sillage, and is suitable for either men or women.

Miller Harris Tangerine Vert

Notes: sicilian green tangerines, grapefruit, lemon, marjoram, geranium, orange, cedar, moss, sweet musk (from millerharris.com)

Tangerine Vert starts with orange, tangerine, a mellow herbal accord, and soapy notes over a soft, sweet, but slightly leathery masculine musk. The structure of this fragrance is very much in keeping with traditional Eau de Colognes, except that TV is actually an EDP. As such, the top citrus notes are orchestrated to last a relatively long time. The scent is probably bolstered by synthetic citrus compounds, although the effect is a strikingly real tangerine fruit--juicy, sweet, acidic and vaguely bitter. TV is not a complicated or challenging fragrance. Despite its bright citrus quality, TV is actually quite calming, especially on days that are a bit hectic or anxiety-ridden. There is something about citrus that immediately catches one's attention, taking the focus off of nervous tension and putting the mind into the moment. TV successfully evokes "Tangerine" while being refined enough to wear as a personal fragrance. It is a great all-around, all occasion, warm weather scent, suitable for men or women.

O de Lancome

Notes: lemon, mandarin, jasmine, honeysuckle, sandalwood, wild rosemary (from lancome-usa.com)

O de Lancome is immediately refreshing, with a burst of lemon, lime, bergamot, and green notes which have grassy, slightly bitter overtones. The citrus phase of OdL is mercilessly short, and on skin, plays itself out within 20 minutes. During this time, oakmoss, galbanum and orris come to the front, giving a more earthy feel to the composition. The moss and orris are a bit grungy at first, and along with the galbanum, are probably are the main contributors to the bitterness detected earlier. In the heart, there are some faint florals, and to my nose smells a bit like dried rose petals mixed into orris root powder. The late development is dominated by the moss and orris which give a bit of a leathery impression. The deep drydown is mostly a slightly sweet amber musk. OdL is classically beautiful citrus-green chypre which is very light, but wonderfully orchestrated. The bright citrus start is not so long as to be irritating, and is perfect for a quick lift. The mellow heart and base are a soothing counterpoint to the citrus "punch", and brings the pitch down gently into a cloud of diaphanous green powder. Lovely.

Creed Original Vetiver

Notes: Vetiver from Haïti, Mysore sandalwood, iris from Florence, musk and ambergris, deep wood notes, mandarin, bergamot from Sicily, ginger (from creedfragrances.co.uk)

Lemon, bergamot, amber, musk, and rosewood are the most prominent notes when Original Vetiver is first sprayed. I am wondering where the vetiver is. Even after the fragrance has dried and is starting to settle, I do not smell any vetiver. What I do smell is basically a very woody-lemony cologne with soft amber-musk base. It's really not bad, but I would not classify it as a vetiver fragrance. The ingredients seem to be of reasonably good quality, however, I am having a very hard time getting excited about this fragrance. OV is Boring with a capital "B". It just SITS there, being lemony, woody and a tad spicy--in a nutshell, OV is mostly a soapy traditional scent and a bit thin on the base notes. This fragrance has none of the sparkle and beauty I would expect from a traditional scent made by a prestige house. I hesitate to suggest it as a good, all occasion, light and fresh fragrance because it is too expensive for what it is.

L'Artisan L'Eau d'Ambre Extreme

Notes: cinnamon, pepper, cardamom, nutmeg, amber, vanilla, rose, patchouli, sandalwood, benzoin, tonka bean (from luckyscent.com)

L'Eau d'Ambre Extreme is not a more concentrated version of L'Eau d'Ambre. L'Ed'AE starts immediately into sweet traditional amber, with vanilla, labdanum and benzoin. There is also a doughy note that is almost like uncooked chocolate chip cookie dough--sounds strange, but it works! The labdanum is woody and tabacco-like, and lightly applied spices such as cinnamon complement the composition beautifully. Now the bad news. Later in the development, a soapy musk emerges. Up to that point, I would have said that L'Ed'AE is a good substitute for Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Ambre Precieux. Sorry to be dramatic, but cheap white musk really destroys Amber Extreme for me. It is not in keeping with the richness of the resinous and balsamic core, and is quite jarring in its intrusion. Furthermore, when the same synthetic "play-do" note present in L'Eau d'Ambre starts to make its presence known here, L'Ed'AE no longer keeps my attention. Sillage and longevithy for L'Ed'AE are moderate. It is worth a sample, and maybe even a decant, but for traditional amber, MPG Ambre Precieux is a much better fragrance than Ambre Extreme.

L'Artisan L'Eau d'Ambre

Notes: geranium, patchouli, vanilla, amber (from luckyscent.com)

L'Eau d'Ambre is not a lighter concentration of L'Eau d'Ambre Extreme. L'Ed'A starts with sharp cherry and a dash of almondy "play do" rubberyness. Beneath is a light amber (vanilla, light labdanum and benzoin) that is slightly sweet but not cloying. The notes list geranium, but geranium is not prominent--rather, it supplies a dry, herbal edge to the fragrance which seems to have the effect of keeping it buoyant. Despite that, the sweet latex rubber note is extremely off-putting for me--it smells cheap and artificial. For lovers of traditional amber, I'd say this will probably not satisfy. For lovers of herbal ambers, Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan is far superior. Sillage for L'Eau d'Ambre is very light and longevity is short.

L'Artisan Poivre Piquant

Notes: white pepper, liquorice, milk and honey (from luckyscent.com)

I was expecting a hot pepper experience when I applied Poivre Piquant. What I got instead is a sweet, powdery, warm and light oriental. The most prominent notes are peppercorn, cedar, vanilla and sweet musk. It is interesting and compelling for about ten minutes while the nose-tickling pepper and vanilla do a dance in opposition. Soon, however, the cedar enters, and it is a woody "pencil shavings" type of note--not very appealing to my nose. Needless to say, the composition falls apart, leaving seemingly unrelated notes with no strong base to give PP more long-lasting substance. As a vanilla-musk fan, I can't say this fragrance is unlikeable, however, it is rather non-descript after the top notes are gone. Deep in the drydown, some licorice notes are apparent, but by then I have lost interest. Serge Lutens Douce Amere is a far superior fragrance for capturing this same idea. PP's Longevity is extremely short, and sillage is close to the body.

(PS, Iso E Super alert--this one gives me a headache!)

L'Artisan Mandarine Tout Simplement

Notes: green mandarin, ginger, yellow mandarin, frangipani, red mandarin, and white cedar (from luckyscent.com)

Mandarine Tout Simplement is...simply mandarine. Yes, the label and the contents do agree! MTS goes on light and juicy, with a slight bitter "baby aspirin" edge that mandarine fruit has naturally. Later, white florals kick in to give a little bit of substance as the top notes fade. MTS is fresh and refreshing, a very straightforward citrus that is neither challenging nor complex. At the same time, it is not necessarily outstanding in its composition, and is extremely short lived with low sillage. This would be a good fragrance for times when heavy or "perfumy" fragrances are too much. I must give some positive marks for the fact that MTS does not decay into laundry soap territory as many "fresh" fragrances do. MTS is nice and fruity, and sometimes that is what is needed on a warm day. However, a traditional cologne would be equally refreshing at a fraction of the cost.

L'Artisan Mure et Musc

Notes: wild blackberry, musk, citrus (from luckyscent.com)

Mure et Musc goes on as a juicy citrus with an herbal backbone, and some salty, soapy musk notes. I can't say I smell any blackberry to speak of, although there is a non-distinct "fruity" note which is mostly eclipsed by the soapy white musk. I must be honest, with apologies to lovers of this fragrance, this is worse than mediocre. The soapy musk takes over very quickly, and is not even as good as low-end fragrance oils I have tried. After only a few minutes, the citrus smells cheaper than household cleaning products which use natural orange oil. If it were a strong and long-lived scent, Mure et Musc would be a scrubber.

L'Artisan Iris Pallida (EDP, limited edition)

Notes: Iris, lily of the valley, violet leaf, orange blossom, rose, aniseed, patchouli, cedar, vetiver, ambrette seed, white musk, guaiac wood (from luckyscent.com)

In my first spray of Iris Pallida, immediately apparent are anise, pepper, iris root and violet leaf. The iris root is of the moist, carroty variety, although it does not have the typical cold and clammy quality that I sometimes smell in iris scents that are very rooty. The anise and violet are marvelous counterpoints as they seem to simultaneously warm and freshen the doughy aspects of the iris root. Later in the development, IP becomes much soapier. In fact, when combined with the iris and violet, the soapy note seems to launch IP into the space that lies between Prada Infusion d'Iris and Dior Homme EDT. If I could remove the lipstick note from Dior Homme, but keep the woody, herbal tones, and inject some lovely floral, soapy softness from Infusion d'Iris, I feel that I would arrive at Iris Pallida. Considering I enjoy Infusion d'Iris and Dior Homme a great deal, I find Iris Pallida quite lovely as well. Sillage and longevity are moderate, the arrival time to skin scent being around 5 to 6 hours. The deep drydown is comprised of creamy woods and light musk. Overall, an excellent choice for men or women, and worth testing by anybody who wants an alternative to mainstream designer iris fragrances.

Dolce and Gabbana The One

Notes: Bergamot, Mandarin, Lychee, Peach, Madonna Lily, Muguet, Plum, Jasmine, Vetiver, Vanilla, Amber, Musk. (from Sephora.com)

The One is a light composition of vanilla, mixed summer fruits, nondescript woods and pale amber. The vanilla is sugared and flavored with a bit of caramel. The effect is lightened with some lychee and other watery fruits such as peach or apricot. Overall the effect is extremely sweet, almost sickeningly so. I find it difficult to pick out many notes in this fragrance--the ingredients seem to blend together seamlessly. While this may be a desired trait, in the case of The One, it adds to the glossy one-dimensional quality that this fragrance evokes. I'd hesitate to call this a fruity floral, despite the heavy inclusion of fruits in the fragrance. In fact it is a pretty, albeit uncomplicated, feminine oriental fragrance that is not challenging in composition and not terribly loud or provocative. I like the way this one looks on paper, but on skin, it is formless and banal. Death by vanilla pudding. Neutral rating.

Dolce and Gabbana L'Eau The One

Notes: Bergamot, Mandarin, Lychee, Peach, Plum, Floral Muguet, Jasmine, Madonna Lily, Amber, Musk, Moss, Vanilla, Vetyver (from Sephora.com)

L'Eau The One opens a bit more tart and bitter than the original namesake, and as the original, features prominent sugared vanilla, light amber, woods and mixed fruits. The fruit blend, however, was reorchestrated with a heavier dose of citrus such as grapefruit or mandarin and a stronger, watery lychee. The published notes appear to be exactly the same as in the original The One, but perhaps are used in different proportions to achieve an overall more buoyant feel. The woods are more aggressive in L'Eau, and there is a touch of patchouli that was not apparent in The One. Considering the original is exceedingly polite, this little bit of edginess is quite welcome, and gives L'Eau some needed dryness to balance out the super sweet vanilla dessert notes. In the case of L'Eau The One, I definitely prefer the added personality that affords this fragrance some nice structure to keep the flabby pudding top notes from being suffocating. Positive rating.

Hermes Elixir des Merveilles

Notes: chocolate-covered candied orange peel, caramel, vanilla biscuit (vanilla sugar, tonka bean), creamy milk, sandalwood, incense, resins, ambergris, Peru balsam and balsam of Siam, oak, patchouli and cedar (from NowSmellThis.com)

What happens when you take a weird, top-heavy woody gourmand like Eau des Merveilles and amp up the sweetness with excessive amounts of vanilla-orange creamsicle and some chocolate? You get an orange-creme truffle of a fragrance that smells like cheap food flavorings rather than a fine fragrance. Ok, so it does smell a bit yummy, in the same way that I loved my grape flavored Bonne Bell lip gloss when I was young. I apologize to those who may love this fragrance, but to my nose it smells of inexpensive body care products. I enjoy the dissonance of dessicated cedar wood and tea contrasted with syrupy sweetness, but I can't ever see wearing this with any regularity. In other words, it is nice for an occasional diversion, but is ultimately boring, loud and unsophisticated.

Hermes Eau de Merveilles

Notes: elemi, bitter orange, Italian lemon, Indonesian pepper, pink pepper, ambergris accord, oak, cedar, vetiver, balsam of Peru and tears of Siam (from NowSmellThis.com)

I have read that Eau de Merveilles is supposed to have been inspired by ambergris, and with that in mind, thought it would probably be a little "beachy", as in salt and sun on skin. In the opening, I smell orange, cedar, patchouli, tea, and a strange antiseptic note that reminds me very much of Lysol spray, in the original "good for your health, germ killing" scent. To be more precise, the antiseptic note smells like a cross between sage and iodine, but in the context of the rest of the fragrance, is softened and bolstered by other notes that allow it to give a leathery impression. It is a real stretch to imagine EdM as anything close to what ambergris really is, and in fact, it smells nothing like the real thing. However, on a warm day like today, once the weird woody, medicinal, leathery strangeness subsides, the lingering base does smell a bit like ambergris--salty, a tiny bit sweet and with a bitter edge that is a tad like bile. Too bad there is also a sort of shampoo smell in the drydown. On the whole, EdM was far more gourmand than I expected--the cedar, patchouli and sage/iodine accord is quite masculine, with an effect very similar to Angel and its ilk. I give EdM some points for the unusual opening accord, but find that ultimate gourmand weirdness is better satisfied by Tom Ford's Black Orchid. Having said that, I am enjoying EdM today, and find it to be an acceptable warm weather scent, appropriate for both men and women.

Bulgari Omnia

Notes: Mandarin, Saffron, Masala Tea, and White Chocolate (from Sephora.com)

On first spray, I smell a blended wood accord centered around cedar, pepper, and a note which I can only describe as "chewable baby aspirin orange". The baby aspirin note is quite off putting--it is bitter, artificial, and has a tendency to catch in my throat. Unfortunately, this unpleasantness lasts for a few hours. Omnia is rather linear, so when the aspirin note eventually fades, the blended woods and a soft, powdery and somewhat soapy musk are what remain. The overall effect in the drydown is akin to household items such as laundry detergent, dryer sheets or room spray. Even though tea is listed in the pyramid, I do not smell Bulgari's often-used note in Omnia. Some leathery, tabacco-like tea may have actually brightened this fragrance up a bit. As it stands, it is a rather soft, understated and formless fragrance from start to finish--it is almost as if it has no bone structure. With three sprays on each arm, Omnia stayed close to the skin the entire time. Now, about 12 hours later, there is a faint sweet musk skin scent. It is certainly not the worst fragrance I have experienced, and it will probably not offend anybody. There is simply nothing about Omnia that would entice me to wear it.

Prada by Prada

Notes: Bergamot Oil Italian, Orange Oil, Bitter Orange Oil, Mandarin Flower, Mimosa India, Rose Absolute ABS, Schinus Molle ABS LMR, Peru Balsam, Patchouli Oil LMR, Raspberry Flower, Labdanum Resinoide LMR, Tonka Bean ABS LMR, Vanilla Absolute, Musk, Sandalwood Oil (from Sephora.com)

Upon initial spray of Prada, I smell ozone, vanilla, patchouli, citrus blend, sweet floral notes, and a soft woody accord. The ozone note is strange--not metallic, necessarily, but cold in comparison to the warm wood base. The patchouli in Prada is fairly recognizable as such, but its character almost immediately starts to synergistically blend with the other notes. On the whole, though, Prada is a fairly straightforward and linear woody amber patchouli fragrance with some interestingly darkened floral and citrus notes. It is as if some dried orange peel, rose petals and mild spices (clove, perhaps) were mixed together and stored in an exotic wooden box such as ebony or teak. Take that warm, oriental base, and add some lighter florals similar to what one would find in a traditional Eau de Cologne (orange flower or neroli). The oriental base completely overpowers the light floral notes, but at the same time it is cooled and softened. Eventually, the florals mostly fade, and the fragrance goes out on a base of spices, vanilla, patchouli, labdanum, and some woody aromachemicals which mimic sandalwood. Other reviewers have complained about longevity with Prada. On my skin, it lasts for hours. However, it is not an oriental powerhouse--rather it is a subtle and wearable fragrance which has a pleasingly attractive sweet-dry composition, somewhat along the lines of Chanel Allure Sensuelle or Givenchy Organza Indecence. The drydown is reminiscent of Chanel Egoiste or Bois des Iles, but does not have nearly the complexity. Overall, Prada is a well made, pleasant, wearable fragrance. Even though there is nothing outstanding or ground-breaking about it, Prada has a quality that is understated and quiet. Sometimes that is exactly what I want.

Tom Ford Black Orchid EDP

Notes: Bergamot, Citrus, Mandarin, Black Gardenia, Jasmine, Ylang-Ylang, Lotus Wood, Orchid, Spicy Floral Accord, Orchid (Tom Ford Black Accord), Patchouli, Sandalwood, Incense, Vanilla (from Sephora.com)

Wow! All I can say is...wow, as in, this is really strange stuff! At first, I smell chocolate, mint, a green herbal blend, patchouli, coconut, vetiver, tar, woods, mixed floral notes, and ozone. Soon after, the mid notes reveal some fruit notes, the coconut becoming more dominant along with watery fruits such as watermelon, peach and strawberry. The thing that seems to make this fragrance so strange is that it is watery and fresh while also being bogged down in woody, camphoraceous notes which are quite dirty in comparison. It smells like all the subtle earthy, herbaceous, bitter and floral aromas which blend in a garden are selectively amplified so that each one becomes a caricature of itself. The dirt is more dirty, and smells of woody, dry roots. The herbs and leaves are especially bitter and pungent. The florals are neon in both color and scent quality, elevated to the point of almost being monstrous. And yet, I am sort of enjoying Black Orchid. It has the theatrical exaggeration that I would expect of a man eating plant in an alien's garden. I find it interesting and enjoyable and a tad shocking in a good way, but I am not sure I would be inclined to wear it on a regular basis.

Chanel Allure Sensuelle EDP

Notes: Bergamot, Mandarin Orange, Pink Pepper, Jasmine, Rose, Iris, Candied Fruit, Vetiver, French Vanilla, Amber Patchouli, Frankincense, Sensual Note (from OsMoz.com)

When I first apply Allure Sensuelle, I detect aldehydes, vanilla, labdanum, peach, melon, patchouli, rose and a fresh ozone-like note. The watery melon and ozone notes begin to change relatively quickly, and the mid notes reveal the woods to be cedar, or perhaps a cedar and sandalwood blend, along with an amber accord and mixed rich florals. The floral heart is quite classic, and has the refinement that is typical of Chanel. The rose gives a bit of a nod to Coco, however, the context within Allure Sensuelle is far more woody and substantially less loud. The middle development is lovely in a classic way -- woody oriental with luxurious floral notes, not terribly spicy, but nectar-like in the same sense as a rich dessert. The base is very nice, woody and resinous, with an interesting smoky note which could be from incense and vetiver. It sounds great on paper, so I am not sure why I never seem to find any sense of comfort when I first spray Allure Sensuelle. It is as if the perfumer took the head from one fragrance and the body from a different, completely incongruous one. I find the top and early middle to be quite confusing because the top notes simply don't fit with the base. If I am having an off day, this sweet, wet, ozonic top mixed with a rich oriental base can be positively sickening. On the plus side, AS is not terribly linear as its character changes throughout. This one is all about the drydown, in my opinion. AS is pleasant enough, but certainly not one of Chanel's best.

Nasomatto Absinth

Notes: absinthe, herbs, vetiver (from luckyscent.com)

Upon first application of Absinthe, the most apparent notes are artemesia, vanilla, leather, patchouli, dirt, spruce, tea and smoke. In fact, it could be a more herbal, less ambery cousin of Parfum d'Empire Ambre Russe. As the fragrance develops, the soft vanilla and smoky leather open out a bit, reducing the relative density. It is quite stunning in this phase as I perceive small doses of the artemesia, and it acts as an aromatic backdrop for the sweetened leather and tea notes. The smoke could be vetiver--there is a green vegetal quality that is incense-like without being resinous. As the fragrance slowly develops, it becomes sweeter and more balsamic, with a faint smoky sharpness to keep it from becoming too cloying. There is a dusty quality that also emerges, a puckery astringent edge that adds to the illusion of leather, tea and perhaps a bit of tobacco. Absinth more or less stays in this place for the remainder, the drydown becoming increasingly smoky, dry and woody with the persistent tea/leather tannins mixed in. Overall the balance is excellent--Absinth is deftly composed of sweet, dry, bitter, aromatic and astringent qualities in very pleasing proportions. The deep drydown loses most of the sweetness, tending toward the dry, tannic smoky leather and a desiccated wood blend that has been a constant undertone throughout.

Although I enjoy this fragrance very much, I find I have mixed feelings about it. It has many fine qualities, and there is nothing inherently lacking, but somehow it still does not take me to the heights of satisfaction that I get with some classic scents. Perhaps fragrances like Absinth should not be directly compared to classic scents. Perhaps it is in a league of new-style fragrance and must be judged with its contemporaries. What I am getting at is this--Absinth really does not live up to classic leather fragrances such as Chanel Cuir de Russie or Guerlain Djedi. However, it has other characteristics that those classics don't have--a newer template done in modern materials. The perfumer uses the materials for what they are, and the product is completely different in spirit. In a way, it is like comparing a Renaissance oil painting to a modern acrylic tableau. Each has its own unique craft and artistry that can be enjoyed without denigration of one or the other.

L'Artisan Fou d'Absinthe

Notes: absinthe, star anise, dry pine, cistus, angelica flower, blackcurrant buds, clove, ginger, nutmeg, patchouli, pepper, pine needles, fir balsam (from luckyscent.com)

When I first apply Fou d'Absinthe, I smell mint, menthol, spices such as clove, rosemary, artemisia, pine and aromatic woods. The opening is very compelling--refreshing and bracing, although the herbs are heavily aromatic and a bit gruff. The overall impression is a mixture of conifer forest green and a mediterranean herb garden. The edginess of the conifer and herbal notes ease as the fragrance develops, and this allows the absinthe note to come out more--the fragrance becomes less "prickly" and more soft, with billowy wormwood wafts sharpened slightly with some anise to enhance the licorice-like effect. Eventually, Fd'A starts to smell a bit like traditional barbershop fragrance and more as I would expect from a fougere. Mixed spices start to take over the greenery--ginger, pepper, nutmeg, and a touch of clove. In the late middle development, Fd'A becomes more woody, along the lines of aromatic conifers such as spruce or pine, mixed with needles and cones from the respective trees. The artemisia stays constant throughout, and compliments the conifer notes very well. The aromatic woods extend to the drydown which is mostly a slightly sweet musk base. The drydown is not terribly impressive nor particularly unique. The best parts of Fou d'Absinthe are in the top and mid development, but there is nothing about the drydown that is offputting. It simply becomes a bit boring at the end, although I find it to be a rather solid fragrance composition overall.

Chanel Bel Respiro EDT

Notes: crushed leaves, rosemary, thyme, rose, lilac, hyacinth, green tea, aromatic grasses, myrrh, leather (from NowSmellThis)

Bel Respiro starts with bergamot, pepper, rosemary, lavender, galbanum, faint powdery vanilla or tonka and soap. I am impressed at the relative complexity right out of the gate--Bel Respiro's top notes have a lovely balance, green and refreshing. Any potential harshness the herbs might take on is kept in check and tempered with some mild sweetness from the vanilla, and the soapy note stays staunchly in the background (which in my opinion is where it belongs). As the herbal notes expand and thin out, the florals and vanilla become more apparent. Still, the herbs lend a lovely green background to the floral blend, giving the impression of a well tended garden. To be sure, Chanel's interpretation of a garden does not involve dirt, compost, vegetables or any other earthy garden delights. What comes across in BR is the refinement of the aromatic foliage and blossoms--fruits of the garden after all the gardeners have gone home. The florals are blended, so it is difficult to discern between varietals, although to my nose a soft and subtle rose is in the mix. The base is a very nice (read "not cheap") sweet ambery musk, vanilla and faint herbs. BR is a joy to experience, although it develops much too quickly on skin. Development can be slowed a bit when applied to paper or cloth. The sillage is not strong, as to be expected with an EDT. Despite a short development, this one is worth a try, and maybe also a full bottle.

Chanel Cristalle Eau Verte EDT

Notes: honeysuckle accord, magnolia, lemon, bergamot, neroli, jasmine, abstract white flowers (from NowSmellThis)

On first application, Cristalle Eau Verte has a blend of citrus notes, orange, grapefruit and bergamot, spiked with a bit of pepper. After the juice dries, it seems more watery without being ozonic or aquatic. There is some vague soapyness which lends a bitter tinge, and overall the impression is clean and bright, almost like a traditional Eau de Cologne. It is indeed "fresh" in the sense that the watery quality combines with the soapyness to give a just washed effect. Most of the citrus accord (except for what now seems to be lemon) fades rather quickly as the white florals develop. The fresh soapyness is still going strong, and unfortunately is a bit too reminiscent of household products. In fact, this accord gets a bit sickening in the middle development--lemon, soap and some kind of Fresh Breeze type room spray comes to mind. The florals are really overwhelmed by this "fresh" accord, so much so that I can barely even detect a faint bouquet, let alone individual floral notes. The drydown is great, though, and seems to be the base accord from Chanel's own Bel Respiro--a lovely musk and some lingering herbal notes. Longevity is short and projection is extremely mild--CEV becomes almost a skin scent within 30 minutes. If I were to choose, I'd skip this one all together and get Bel Respiro.

Sinfonia di Note Saveur d'Artichaut EDP

Notes: bergamot, aromatic notes, basil, moss, artemisia, wood notes (from luckyscent.com)

Saveur d'Artichaut starts very green and soapy, and more along the lines of a refreshing EDT or cologne splash rather than an EDP. The green notes are mostly herbal--basil, artemisia/wormwood and perhaps some lavender or rosemary. The licorice-like notes of the artemisia are dry and woody, more like the aromatic leaves and stems of the artemisia plant. The soapy note fades rather quickly, although remains as a low buzz behind the herbal melange. There is something warming this fragrance a little--perhaps some spices such as pepper or coriander. The herbal stage is really inviting, and unfortunately develops much too quickly, even on paper. In the mid development, Sd'A takes on some earthy tones such as moss, non-descript woods and a sweet ambery musk. The basil becomes much less bright, mellowing to be more juicy or resin-like, and the billowy artemisia helps to keep the whole composition soft and diaphanous. In the drydown, there are also some faint leather and nutty chypre-like notes. I find Sd'A to be a quiet, refreshing and pleasing scent. I am not swept away by fuss and thunder, rather I am enveloped in an ephemeral cloud of subtle garden aromas. It is a bit disappointing that the longevity is so short, and unfortunately, the drydown is not terribly original. Overall, I am left wanting much more.

Lubin L de Lubin (re-release)

Notes: Sicilian Lemon, Calabrian Bergamot, white Gardenia, black pepper, ylang ylang, Egyptian Jasmine, May rose, iris and lily, cloves, Tonka bean, Rosewood, Patchouli, Mysore Sandalwood, Heliotrope, Vanilla and Musk (from luckyscent.com)

The first time I tried L de Lubin, I thought I had stumbled across a cleaner, more modernized version of Dior Diorella. Immediately after spraying, LdL has a plastic and peppery hairspray note. Thankfully this fades fast, but there are times when I get the impression of plastic. Thankfully, LdL mostly goes on with juicy lemon, perfect in that it does not seem like an edible lemon dessert or any kind of furniture polish. In the top notes there are also some slightly sweet white florals, subtle peppery spice and a hint of vanilla. It is quite gorgeous when first applied (after the alcohol dries), and even has that Diorella meaty melon note. LdL also has some resemblance to the simultaneously dry-sweet lemon-vanilla accord from Guerlain Habit Rouge EDC. The spices add an interesting zing without being heavy--they complement the citrus notes and add some continuity as the fruity lemon fades.

The top and mid development lasts around 40-60 minutes, and then LdL becomes much less compelling. The drydown is nothing special--vanilla, non-descript musk, some tart synthetic fruit notes (must be the Heliotrope) and some lightly lingering mixed florals. At this point, it smells so much like a common designer fragrance that I completely lose interest. Where did all the good stuff go? Needless to say, while there is hardly anything offensive about the base notes of LdL, the best parts of this fragrance do not last nearly long enough.

Estee Lauder Private Collection Jasmine White Moss EDP

Notes: Black Currant Bud Absolute, Galbanum Absolute, Bergamot Absolute, Aerin's Jasmine Sambac Absolute, Estée's Ylang Ylang Absolute, Estée's Jasmine Absolute, Violet, Orange Flower Absolute, Orris, Patchouli Heart Absolute, Vetiver Absolute, White Moss Mist Absolute (an Estée Lauder exclusive) (From the Estee Lauder web site)

The notes list is a green floral chypre lover's dream, and this fragrance truly delivers. The top notes start with bright citrus and galbanum, a combination of stem and fruit. The citrus is not especially juicy, rather, it gives a fresh, sunny effect. The galbanum is not overly bitter or strong, and has somewhat of a grassy smell. There is a urinous edge to the top notes, probably from the black currant bud. It does not offend, though, and ends up being more of a support note to evoke the softly indolic florals to come. Soon after application, a Diorella-like overripe melon note emerges. The meaty quality of the melon note is quite a bit more subdued than in Diorella, and is also not nearly as deep. Along with the overripe melon, a beautiful star jasmine comes forth. I am not sure I have ever smelled a Jasmine fragrance that truly captures the scent of the blossoms from a living star jasmine plant, so I find this quality extremely enticing. Star jasmine has a heavenly odor, and to capture it in a fragrance that can be enjoyed even when the blossoms are out of season is impressive.

The mid notes carry the overripe fruit and jasmine, and are joined by some moss and powder. This is a lovely direction for the fragrance to take as the powder note brings a little bit of sweetness to the already ethereal greens and white florals. I imagine there must be some vanilla here, although it is not listed. The Jasmine stays heady but fresh, and never takes on a rotten tone as some jasmine absolutes do. The drydown is not overly herbal, in fact, I can't really discern any vetiver per se. To my nose, the base seems to be about orris, subtle moss, vanilla and maybe some light resins such as benzoin. Projection is moderate, and longevity is good--a liberal morning application lasted well into the afternoon, and the scent lasted 24 hours on paper. This fragrance is a must try for fans of Chanel Cristalle, Parfums de Nicolai Le Temps d'une Fete, L de Lubin, Dior Eau Sauvage and already mentioned, Diorella. While it does not capture my heart in the same way that Le Temps d'une Fete or Diorella does, I find that JWM outperforms Cristalle EDT/EDP and Eau Sauvage for longevity. Compositionally it develops with grace and ease, unlike the re-release of L de Lubin.

After the alcohol dries, I get a very strong smell of mothballs. I am very surprised because I also smell a similar mothball quality in civet. To my nose, civet is like a combination of mothballs, feces and florals. Ambergris is like mothballs, brine and bile. I can't disagree with other observations on the bile aspect, only my first inclination was to say it smelled of very bad breath (human). Another surprise for me--this is the first animalic that I have not found to be pleasant. Apparently I prefer feces to vomit. Joking aside, I can tell that ambergris could be transformed by blending. I am sure its bitter edge could round out a fragrance, giving it some definition in the same way that bitter herbs and salt make a bland stew come to life. The deep drydown is sweet, not like what is typically considered an amber accord (labdanum, benzoin, vanilla), and it smells quite lovely, a bit like fresh air (but NOT ozonic).

Ambergris is a "single note" of ambergris tincture, and is great for anybody who likes to make their own blends or layer fragrances.

On paper, I smelled Star Jasmine, the kind I used to have growing outside my house in northern California. When baking in the sun, Star Jasmine has a different quality than at night. African Night's jasmine smells more of the cool scent I smell from Star Jasmine in the evening--sweet and cool, a bit less indolic than during daytime. The jasmine fades to reveal ylang ylang, and it has the typical lemon-woody on the verge of furniture polish smell that I associate with this essence. The floral combination is rather intoxicating and also gives a sense of calm. I am not sure if there is actually spice in this fragrance, but I do smell a little bit of clove. Some flower essences such as carnation give this effect. It is very pretty, and the floral accord seems to last a long time. I really love the softly spicy drydown. Overall, it smells mostly floral and is a rather soothing scent.

On my skin, I can detect the jasmine and ylang ylang quite strongly. However, unlike smelling AN on paper, I smell a gasoline note. The gasoline note is somewhat like what I found in Profumo's two African Queen fragrances (on paper), but not quite as overpowering. There is definitely an animalic tone which I didn't find to be as forward on paper. I do not feel nearly as calmed with this fragrance on my skin, probably because the gasoline note, while greatly subdued compared to African Queen, is a bit offputting. As the fragrance starts to dry, I smell the hint of spice I noticed before.

African night really comes on strong in the top notes, but settles quickly. Unfortunately, I feel like I can't even get in the door with it. For me, it is obviously better if it is not used as a personal fragrance, but rather on paper or other evaporation method in a similar application to aromatherapy. I recommend testing this, especially for jasmine lovers. It is really quite lovely!

Notes include: Mandarine, Tuberose, Civet

On paper, Mona Lisa has a beautiful citrus accord top that reminds me very much of petitgrain which is woody, fruity and fresh. It becomes creamy almost right away, not like the sweet orange-cream of ice cream, candy or soda, but creamy like a soft, inedible vanilla with a faint tinge of orange. The label says it has tuberose. I don't detect strong tuberose, but ML does start to develop a sort of chewy, almond-like note which is simultaneously sweet and bitter. This is something I can take very deep inhalations of--I wish it were a bit stronger and longer lasting! I think of all the almond-like fragrances on the market, and this blows them all away.

On skin, and the civet note really blossoms, and I smell the tuberose more strongly. I have smelled this same tuberose note in Piguet Fracas, Malle Carnal Flower, etc. It is so subtle in Mona Lisa, not overpowering at all. It is a close to the skin scent, very personal. I love how the civet turns creamy and how it carries the tuberose and citrus into the drydown. Later, I get the almond-like scent that I smelled on paper.

On full wearing, Mona Lisa smells of citrus and cream. The citrus is listed as mandarine in the notes, and indeed it does have an "orange with and edge" quality about it. It is not as sweet as orange, and is slightly more woody and bitter. The creamyness comes form the civet which is less overt at the start of the development. Soon after the fragrance dries, the mandarine becomes quite a bit more green, and this is facilitated by the emergence of the tuberose note. I have never smelled tuberose in isolation, nor have I smelled the actual plant. My only other exposure to this note has been in other fragrances, as I mentioned above. Mona Lisa's tuberose seems more dirty in comparison to Fracas or Carnal Flower, and it is almost smoky, with hints of slightly musty wet cardboard and bitter almond. The natural civet seems to play an important role, giving the tuberose and mandarine some hefty substance without weighing down the delicate top and mid notes.

Mona Lisa develops very rapidly and wears close to the body. It is mostly a skin scent after about two hours. It is amazing how natural ingredients of high quality can have such complexity. In a way, I am at a loss for how to describe such fragrances--I smell mandarine, I smell civet, I smell tuberose. However, there is a synergy that occurs in this and most of the other perfumes I have tried from this house. I smell all the ingredients, but I also smell the whole composition which shifts to emphasize one or two of the component ingredients. Surprisingly, the mandarine stays strong for most of the development. The tuberose comes and goes, and moves from indolic floral to a bitter and sweet nuttyness. The civet, of course, remains to the end, and is a beautiful finish, soft, creamy and musky.

Bazaar is undoubtedly a spicy fragrance from beginning to end. To my nose, the main spice seems to be cardamom--this spice smells like a combination of clove or cinnamon, pepper, allspice and a little bit of dry woodyness. I *think* I smell something floral in the top notes--it really reminds me of carnation, even though that note may not be used. I get the sense of a cool, crisp, dewy and spicy flower, all of which I associate with carnation. Sometimes an accord also seems carnation-like to me when it combines a mild rose (like tea rose) with clove. Either way, this floral note is fleeting and adds to the blend rather than dominating at any given time.

Soon after spraying, Bazaar becomes a woodier. It is rather complex, and I must commend Profumo for the composition. I can't tell which wood is here, and my comments above are only guesses as to whether the spice is cardamom. Whatever the spice, it has a pleasant biting edge. This is the same edge that was less tolerable in Profumo's Rose de Bois, but here, the dry astringency works much better with the tannic wood accord.

Later, the woody spice blend seems to open up so that the notes become more distinguishable. I smell tobacco, sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli and again, cardamom. I am almost shocked at the sophisticated composition, because when I first sprayed it, Bazaar seemed so overwhemingly about spice. I thought spice would continue to eclipse everything else in the fragrance. I am happy I was wrong! The drydown is inviting, colorful, and very warming. Twelve hours later, I still smell it quite easily. It has a bit of spice in the drydown, but at this stage, Bazaar is mostly creamy, woody sandalwood, smoky vetiver, peppery, earthy patchouli and powdery vanilla.

On a side note, Bazaar reminds me very much of Chanel Egoiste, so I did back to back wearings over a few days. With a closer comparison, I think the drydowns may be quite a bit more similar than I previously thought. The great thing about Bazaar--it does not have the phantom hairspray note that I often get with some orientals that have synthetic sandalwood. I do smell this hairspray note a bit in Egoiste, even though it fades after a while. After repeated wearings of Bazaar, I sometimes prefer its subtlety and warmth over the louder and more synthetic Egoiste, although I love both.

Urine, wet cardboard, feces at first. When it dries, it turns more sweet but has a slightly dry, astringent edge--gorgeous. Surprisingly, it has a similar antiseptic note to the synthetic castoreum I have smelled. Real castoreum smells much more floral to my nose, and the antiseptic note seems more herbal rather than like "band-aid". Later, it takes on more of the familiar leather quality I expected from the start, but at the same time has a sort of tropical flower quality to it.

Curious as to whether my vintage Jean Desprez Bal a Versailles parfum contains natural castoreum, I **liberally** applied Profumo's castoreum tincture to one arm...and on the other have applied BaV. The spot of castoreum has a rough beginning, but rather quickly mellows to be sweet, slightly tarry and antiseptic. I have smelled something similar in synthetic castoreum-heavy scents such as Dzing!, but the natural castoreum is much smoother. I think it is a combination of civet and castoreum I smell in BaV, which has a slight root beer quality. Of course, there are other notes such as aldehydes and florals, but the animalics in this vintage juice are far more smooth than the newer EdC I own, and in which I also recognize castoreum and civet (synthetic). On a side note, I smell root beer in castoreum if I waft it from further away.

Castoreum is a "single note" tincture of natural castoreum, and would be great for anybody who likes to make their own blends or for layering.

Rose de Bois has an immediate burst of rose blossom which quickly morphs into a sort of green rose, ie, foliage, stems and blossom all together. It is fresh and bracing, a little bit spicy due to the cinnamon which emerges soon after. The cinnamon is actually quite dry and sticks in my throat a bit, but as this fragrance develops quickly, it does not stay there very long. Soon after, the cinnamon mellows into the creamy wood base which actually reminds me very much of Roger and Gallet's Blue Carnation. I love the drydown in Rose de Bois--it is soft, sweet, spicy and woody with a hint of powder. At the same time, it is crisp and dewy, as I imagine a living carnation would smell.

In another wearing, I spritzed around 7:30 am, and could smell it faintly after lunch. Beyond that, is has been very close to the skin. The aesthetic sensibility of this scent reminds me very much of Chanel Egoiste (rose, creamy wood and spice), although I would not say this is a smell-alike by any stretch (Profumo's own Bazaar is much closer to Egoiste). I smelled the rose much more distinctly in this wearing. It is still in the first few instants when it is sprayed, but it comes back again in the green and spicy middle stage where it actually seems quite cool and mellow compared to the spicy accord. The drydown is the ever-consistent creamy vanilla wood. I am not quite beyond the potpourri or scented candle association in RdB, but I am impressed that it can carry this much spice and still skirt that boundary.

Notes: sandalwood, incense, rose

On paper, Holy Water smells of strong frankincense right away. The frankincense is resinous and slightly sweet with an almost-but-not-quite lemon quality to it. It definitely smells watery in an abstract way, and after the frankincense settles, I smell orange and a subtle woody base. The orange fades leaving faint wood, but it also has that edge that faded citrus oils get. Thankfully, it is well masked by the woody base note.

On skin, I smell lemony, woody frankincense with hints of tar and soft evergreen. I think there must also be some other citrus in this fragrance, as it smells quite a bit more fruity than I usually notice in pure frankincense essential oil. As the fragrance dries, I smell something like a tropical flower such as ylang ylang, but it is subtle and short lived. The floral component is a bit heady but not overpowering, and it gives some sweetness and softness to the frankincense. As I have stated above, there is a watery quality to this fragrance, but it is not aquatic or ozonic, nor does it smell of sea water. The notes state that rose is in this blend--this does start to come out more as the fragrance develops. It is not the liquor-like rose I am used to from my own rose absolute, but rather is an ethereal, cloud-like tea rose scent, very light and refined. I must admit, I have attempted this same accord with completely different results. Still, I love how rose, frankincense and sandalwood work together, even though at the moment I can't yet detect the sandalwood.

The rose fades in the latter parts of the middle drydown, and I smell a bit of an ammonia note which I often detect in modern, partly synthetic fougeres. I suspect that it is an evergreen note that I am hyperosmic to. Holy Water definitely has an aromatic herbal side to it, so if it contains pine, cypress, or maybe even some lavender, this could be the culprit. The ammonia note is not overly strong, and it eventually dies down. I can eventually smell the sandalwood in the deep drydown--it is faintly woody, sweet, nutty and a little creamy. My (very old) essential oil is quite similar to this. It is easily overpowered by other notes, so it is great when it finally can show itself!

Civet swings between smelling fecal and smelling like mothballs. I do not get any urine smell here as I do with the synthetic civet. I think natural civet is much more pleasing, however, I am really impressed that synthetic civet comes as close as it does to the natural scent. I recognize this scent very well from Jicky, and of the concentrations I've tried, the civet in Jicky extrait comes closest to smelling like this natural civet. In the drydown, it has a sweetness that is unexpected, but helps me see how this can blend so well in oriental bases that include sweet balsamic notes.

This is a "single note" tincture of natural civet, and would be an excellent ingredient for those who enjoy making their own blends or for layering.

The initial top notes smell mainly of citrus, orange, mandarine or tangerine, with supporting ripe fruit notes of apricot or peach. Having smelled the single note karo karounde, I recognize this ripe fruit note as the KK floral. On paper, this fragrance has a very persistent and off-putting gasoline note in the mid development. On skin, this is less pronounced, and smells more of a pungent, oily evergreen such as cypress. As the green note develops, the fragrance composition takes on a sweaty quality, almost like a combination bad body odor and urine. This stage does not last terribly long on my skin--the BO quality soon attenuates, and starts developing into a softened evergreen with sweet indolic floral and lingering citrus. Eventually, the karo karounde moves into an overripe fruit stage as I also perceived in the single note--it is sweet fruits and melons on the verge of going bad, and it has a fermented and sligtly meaty quality. The citrus changes significantly, and in this stage adds a tiny bit of sulfuric harshness which is also reminiscent of urine. In the drydown, the overripe fruit becomes quite sweet, but not cloying, and the fragrance as a whole takes on a soft powdery quality.

I must admit, I was really quite afraid to try AQPP on skin. The gasoline scent I smelled on paper was so incredibly harsh and revolting that I did not want it on my body. Now it is clear that this fragrance is one of those that has a very different personality on the skin. I actually find it relatively pleasant, even if it seems to be more of a conceptual composition rather than a daily wear fragrance. In fact, the AQPP drydown is quite gorgeous--soft and sweet fruit with a hint of dry powder and spice. The more challenging part is definitely the mid development when the green notes add an animalic harshness that is simultaneously disgusting and alluring.

My impressions of Morning Blossom on paper is that it is a gorgeous bergamot to start, then is joined by subtle blended citruses. There is a lemony quality that reminds me of rosewood essential oil, but eventually it fades, as does the bergamot. As the citrus notes fade, neroli emerges, and it is absolutely stunning--intoxicating, penetrating, sweet and slightly indolic. The neroli lasts a very long time and is of beautiful quality.

Immediately after applying Morning Blossom on skin, I smell the bergamot and indolic floral. MB has a very fresh but soft roundness to it, green, citric, slightly woody and herbal. I have smelled this particular bergamot as an individual note, and it is unlike other bergamot essences I have smelled. It seems far less like the Earl Gray tea scent I am used to and much more like a cross between grapefruit, bitter lime and lemon peppercorns. After drying, the bergamot settles, and I smell mellow lemon-like rosewood. As the bergamot continues to develop, a beautiful neroli note comes out. I must say that the neroli in Morning Blossom is incredibly beautiful. It is somewhat heady and penetrating, a softly orange-scented white floral with a tiny bit of sweet nuttyness which is almost like coconut. This is the kind of neroli that can be consciousness-altering, especially when I take deep inhalations of it.

The bergamot mostly burns off while the rosewood and neroli take over. The rosewood stays very indistinct, and seems to be a bridge for the bergamot and neroli. Interestingly, the neroli seems to be the base note in this composition, and as it develops, it becomes creamy while still retaining a good amount of sharpness and definition. In time, the neroli turns much softer and slightly spicy, but still retains a bit of its animalic urine-like edge. Longevity was surprising, about four hours, however, the fragrance does stay close to the skin overall. Today was warm and sunny, and this incredible fragrance bloomed on my skin while I was out in the sun. It is a gorgeous scent--highly recommended.

Notes: galbanum, green grass, lemon, tangerine, rose, rosemary, jasmine, iris, oakmoss, patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver and birch (from Basenotes articles)

Fleurs de Bois starts very green (as the package suggests) with a burst of bitter galbanum and a stemmy, sappy green plant accord. On skin, the fragrance quickly begins to transition, and the stemmy accord fades to reveal fresh, woody herbs. The galbanum persists, although it is not nearly as strong as in another very green fragrance I love, Chanel No.19. The herbal component is fougere-like with rosemary and perhaps some lavender. I don't really smell much in the way of florals or citrus, although there is a very light powder note which could be iris or oakmoss. I was expecting the herbal accord to last well into the base, but FdB is developing quickly on my skin. The fragrance takes on a vague resinous-balsamic sweetness which I smelled in the base when I tested on paper once before. It is a very welcoming and smooth amber musk, a tad sweet, but not cloying. The bitter green has mostly disappeared at this point, and traces of the rosemary and other woody, herbal mid notes linger. A whisper of vetiver shows itself now--it is faint but lends a slight smokiness. The base is lovely and warm on skin, and for a while during the transition from middle to base, the herbal echoes give a pleasant, cooling contrast.

Overall, this fragrance tends toward the masculine, although the herbal accord is mild in comparison to some men's fougeres I have smelled. The opening and mid development are the real attention-grabbers for me. I have never smelled a galbanum-prominent fragrance in a fougere context, and I quite like the combination. From mid to late development, FdB seems much more like a textbook fougere to me--well done but nothing remarkable. The base is quite fetching, though, and it is commendable that even though this fragrance bears the hallmarks of a traditional fragrance form, it doesn't fall apart at the end with some kind of cheap musk base. What I am really missing in this fragrance is more oakmoss to carry the green impressions from the galbanum and vetiver to the end.

Annick Goutal Mandragore

Notes: Bergamot, Black Pepper, Star Anise, Mint, Ginger, Boxwood, Mandrake (from Osmoz.com)

On first spray, Mandragore is a pleasant, biting blend of citrus, pepper, anise and ginger root. The pepper is a bit dry and nose-tickling, although well blended with the other top notes. Overall the effect is almost edible, like an italian cookie dough my grandmother makes. Incidentally, this cookie dough is for pizzelle which are flat waffle-like cookies cooked two-by-two with a special iron or press. While cooking, the aromatic oils of the dough are released into the air where they cling for days. The aromatic oils come from grated lemon zest, vanilla extract and anise oil. Of course, Mandragore does not have the sugary and eggy quality that the cookie dough has, but the resemblance is striking.

Eventually the citrus in Madragore starts to retreat, allowing the pepper and ginger to come forward in a cloud of fluffy anise. Losing the citrus also allows some woods to peek out, and in general, the fragrance becomes much less comforting and much more dry, prickly, austere. About twenty minutes into Mandragore's development, I find it does not hold my interest. It becomes a bit flat, even though the anise and mild woods keep plugging away as the pepper and ginger fade. One to two hours in, I catch pleasant whiffs of the anise, but not much else as most of the other notes have melted into my skin. At complete drydown (about 3-4 hours after applying), the anise is still faintly present along with a sweet, nondescript amber-musk base and the sweaty vestiges of citrus oils. On paper, the scent seems to develop much more slowly, so this may be the better option for longevity. However, even on paper, this fragrance really loses its momentum early on, and it leaves me wanting more.

Les Nez The Unicorn Spell

Notes: Violet (LesNez.com)

The Unicorn Spell starts in a devastatingly green part of the spectrum. Initially, there is a strong resemblance to raw green beans. Lest anybody think their fragrance experience will be ruined by a nasty vegetable odor, let me say two things. First, this aspect lasts mere seconds while the juice dries. Second, fresh green beans smell GREAT. These are not the sorry, soggy flavorless green beans you get from a can. They are the bitter green things you pick from vines in the garden, and to my nose, smell so much like sappy stems and wood, that they almost do not seem edible. Also, if I may take a jab at a certain Hermes "tomato stem" accord, I find the opening of TUS to be far fresher and more inviting.

As TUS moves into the mid notes, the star of the show becomes obvious--violet. Violet leaf, violet stem, violet root, violet blossom. This is an arrestingly gorgeous dry, green woody note that is softly supported by orris root. I am not sure if I can detect galbanum, but to be sure, the violet leaf note is complex enough to have swallowed any galbanum whole. A galbanum-like bitterness is certainly present. This middle stage develops very slowly over a few hours. The bitter green softens as the iris takes over, making the whole thing seem more billowy. I have the feeling I am in a field of wild flowers at the edge of a forest. Here I can smell indistinct florals and fragrant foliage baking in the sun while I also smell the damp coolness of the forest floor and aromatic, woody tree bark.

Sadly, the base notes do not support this fragrance much beyond the time the mid notes fade. At this stage (around four hours after application) TUS becomes a very close-wearing skin scent of gentle ambergris, slightly sweet and salty. I absolutely adore this interpretation of "green" using violet and iris, and this is no surprise since I love green fragrances on the whole (especially Chanel No.19). In comparison to No.19, TUS is much greener, less overtly floral, and does not ever turn very powdery. In fact, TUS is almost an anti-perfume. The fragrance is evocative, but it doesn't seem to be a beauty product per se. Likewise, it is not so experiential that it is forced into the realm of an unwearable concept piece. I am smitten by this green beauty that walks the line between conventional fragrance and something completely different.

Chanel Chance Eau Fraiche

Notes: Citron, Water Hyacinth, Jasmine, Teakwood, Vetiver, Patchouli Amber, White Musk (from Osmoz)

Chance Eau Fraiche starts with refreshing citruses along the lines of lemon, lime and grapefruit, blended with powdery florals. There is something of a water note here--not aquatic or ozonic, per se, but watery as some fruits are (peach or melon). I also smell green notes, similar to the smell of a crisp Granny Smith apple, some woods and peppery spices. Interestingly, the individual notes sound like they would result in a warm oriental. On the contrary, CEF is very cool and tart. The citrus notes are long-lived, but fade toward the middle stage. The watery and green apple-like notes continue, though, and the fragrance eventually turns soapy and bitter. I don't detect any distinct woods, but the same clean patchouli and vetiver accord from Chance lurks below the watery surface. CEF is quite mediocre and is not terribly pleasant. Even though it seems to have the typical high quality of Chanel fragrances, and despite a promising start in the top and mid notes, it is probably the worst Chanel fragrance I have tried to date.

Chanel Chance

Notes: Pink pepper, Lemon, Hyacinth, Jasmine, Iris, Amber, Patchouli, Vetiver, White Musk (from Osmoz)

On first spraying Chance, I smell sweet and tart sugary candy in some kind of lemon-berry flavor. This note fades within minutes to reveal soft and powdery floral accord. There is something here that approaches the spicy carnation and rose quality I know from Chanel Coco--a fresh, cool and moist floral that also has a hot, spicy "bite". It is not rose or carnation per se, but the effect is similar without evoking the flower itself. In the mid-development, the lemon-berry note comes back. It maintains some bitter tartness in the composition as the sweet powder notes become more prominent. Chance has sanitized patchouli and vetiver in the base that gives the drydown a peppery, woody quality. I must admit, I really can't identify many individual notes. Above all, Chance smells synthetic and refined, a fruity-floral-goumand with an impenetrable glassy quality that prevents any kind of real deconstruction of the fragrance. It smells Chanel. It smells pink. It smells oriental. It is linear and pleasant, but doesn't reach nearly the artistry of the other mainstream Chanel offerings.

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Tiare-Mimose

Notes: tiare (gardenia), mimosa, lemon zest, pink pepper, musk and vanilla (from NowSmellThis)

Of the two Aqua Allegoria fragrances released this year (2009), Tiare-Mimose is the more palatable. It starts with candied synthetic florals, none of which I can recognize. The fragrance is nonetheless refreshing and brightened with a dash of citrus. The florals are joined by a cherry-dominated fruit punch accord which I think is supposed to give it a tropical feel. Soon after, TM really does turn more tropical with what I assume to be Mimosa. Further along, some YlangYlang comes forth, with a lovely, intoxicating woody flower quality that verges on furniture polish--in a good way. In the drydown, TM is mostly a sweet, powdery vanilla musk along the lines of Guerlain's own L'Instant Magic. Although TM is pleasant, nothing about it "wows" me. It seems like a lighter, rehashed, fruity floral imitating Dior's Hypnotic Poison but much less good and without the rubbery almond note. It would probably be great for anybody who find Hypnotic Poison to be too heavy. Longevity of this feminine fragrance was medium, around 5 hours.

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Cherry Blossom

Notes: cherry blossom, green tea, peach and bergamot (from NowSmellThis)

I am not sure exactly what I should be smelling, but what it SEEMS like I am smelling is hairspray. Powdery, bitter, sour, plastic flower hairspray. I do not smell anything even remotely approaching natural peach, bergamot or any kind of flower blossom, let alone a cherry blossom. CB's opening notes are so much like hairspray, I was starting to wonder if this was a light fragrance intended to capture the Guerlain Insolence crowd. I find the top notes to be so unappealing as to be nearly nauseating. Thank goodness this stage burns off after about 10 minutes. What is left? Tea. Yes, the same tea accord we have seen almost everywhere else, including Bulgari Eau Parfumee au The Blanc and its ilk. I am thankful that I really like Bulgari's tea fragrances, otherwise this Guerlain would be unsalvageable for me. Just when I thought it was a lost cause, the smell of leather and tobacco started drifting to my nose. I thought perhaps there really WAS a tobacco note, and I was about to get excited that Guerlain might have taken some risks with this year's AA offering. Alas, Cherry Blossom gives the impression of being cheap and derivative. It gets marks for not giving me a headache or other allergic reaction, but thumbs down for being boring! As with all the other AA's, longevity is middling, around 5 hours, and it swings toward the feminine side of unisex, mostly due to the tea accord.

Issey Miyake Le Feu d'Issey and Etro Etra Side-by-Side Comparison

Le Feu d'Issey Notes: Bergamot, Coconut, Rosewood, Anise, Jasmine, Rose, Milk, Caramel, Cedar, Sandal, Vanilla, Musk (from Osmoz)

Etra Notes: Rosewood, Coriander, Cardamom, Geranium, Sandalwood (from apothica.com)

I read in The Guide (Turin and Sanchez) that Etro was like a "less good" Feu d'Issey. Considering Fd'I is discontinued, I decided to test them together. Looking at the published notes, there is indeed some overlap, and the expectation is that the fragrance will be woody-spicy.

Upon applying Fd'I, it really took me back to the time when I owned it--it is a strange fragrance, unlike most others I have tried. It is simultaneously fresh and dirty, almost as if the perfumer was trying to represent an alternative to carnation. Fd'I has the same cool and moist qualities of carnation with a spiciness which is almost to the point of being sinister. The spices are peppery and woody, with a dirt-like quality which reminds me of cardamom. The spices ground the fragrance while the crisp, watery floral notes float above the base. The overall effect is almost electric--it is fuzzy and diaphanous, making it difficult to pin down exactly where the scent comes from. In the later development, Fd'I becomes a little more ambery sweet, and the bitter, dry spices keep it in check while cedar wood carries the fragrance to the drydown.

Etra smelled quite similar to Fd'I upon first application. The fragrance initially has the same cool-hot combination of florals and spices, but somehow seems more clean. It is a touch sweeter than Fd'I in the top notes, and the mid notes that poke through are substantially greener and more herbal. Etra goes through a low-sillage stage in the mid notes, becoming a skin scent of cedar, vanilla, pepper and cardamom. I had to apply more to get additional projection. I thought the two fragrances would have similar drydowns as they both seemed to be headed toward cedar-musk-vanilla. On the whole, the Feu d'Issey drydown is more complex and unique with peppery spices surviving well into the woody vanilla stage. Etra seems light but satisfying with vanilla, woods and a dash of anise which makes it a dead ringer for the drydown of Serge Lutens Douce Amere.

I can't say I disagree with T&S about Feu d'Issey being the better of the two. However, I think if anybody is expecting is Fd'I from Etra, it will only be in the first half of the development. Since I really like Douce Amere, I can't say I would be averse to wearing Etra at all, as I get two great fragrances in one bottle! Etra really does lack the sparkle and balance of composition that Fd'I has, though. Sampling Fd'I today, I remember why I bought it in the first place--it is a carnation-like composition centered on an alternative oriental base. Where have we heard this theme before? From two of my most treasured favorites: Chanel Coco has rosy, spicy carnation over a traditional amber oriental base; and Shiseido Feminite du Bois has violet and fruit over a woody, balsamic alternative oriental base. Lest anybody lament the demise of Feu d'Issey, its legacy continues in fragrances such as Bulgari Black, Kenzo Amour and SL Douce Amere. And of course, Etro Etra.

Issey Miyake Le Feu d'Issey and Etro Etra Side-by-Side Comparison

Le Feu d'Issey Notes: Bergamot, Coconut, Rosewood, Anise, Jasmine, Rose, Milk, Caramel, Cedar, Sandal, Vanilla, Musk (from Osmoz)

Etra Notes: Rosewood, Coriander, Cardamom, Geranium, Sandalwood (from apothica.com)

I read in The Guide (Turin and Sanchez) that Etro was like a "less good" Feu d'Issey. Considering Fd'I is discontinued, I decided to test them together. Looking at the published notes, there is indeed some overlap, and the expectation is that the fragrance will be woody-spicy.

Upon applying Fd'I, it really took me back to the time when I owned it--it is a strange fragrance, unlike most others I have tried. It is simultaneously fresh and dirty, almost as if the perfumer was trying to represent an alternative to carnation. Fd'I has the same cool and moist qualities of carnation with a spiciness which is almost to the point of being sinister. The spices are peppery and woody, with a dirt-like quality which reminds me of cardamom. The spices ground the fragrance while the crisp, watery floral notes float above the base. The overall effect is almost electric--it is fuzzy and diaphanous, making it difficult to pin down exactly where the scent comes from. In the later development, Fd'I becomes a little more ambery sweet, and the bitter, dry spices keep it in check while cedar wood carries the fragrance to the drydown.

Etra smelled quite similar to Fd'I upon first application. The fragrance initially has the same cool-hot combination of florals and spices, but somehow seems more clean. It is a touch sweeter than Fd'I in the top notes, and the mid notes that poke through are substantially greener and more herbal. Etra goes through a low-sillage stage in the mid notes, becoming a skin scent of cedar, vanilla, pepper and cardamom. I had to apply more to get additional projection. I thought the two fragrances would have similar drydowns as they both seemed to be headed toward cedar-musk-vanilla. On the whole, the Feu d'Issey drydown is more complex and unique with peppery spices surviving well into the woody vanilla stage. Etra seems light but satisfying with vanilla, woods and a dash of anise which makes it a dead ringer for the drydown of Serge Lutens Douce Amere.

I can't say I disagree with T&S about Feu d'Issey being the better of the two. However, I think if anybody is expecting is Fd'I from Etra, it will only be in the first half of the development. Since I really like Douce Amere, I can't say I would be averse to wearing Etra at all, as I get two great fragrances in one bottle! Etra really does lack the sparkle and balance of composition that Fd'I has, though. Sampling Fd'I today, I remember why I bought it in the first place--it is a carnation-like composition centered on an alternative oriental base. Where have we heard this theme before? From two of my most treasured favorites: Chanel Coco has rosy, spicy carnation over a traditional amber oriental base; and Shiseido Feminite du Bois has violet and fruit over a woody, balsamic alternative oriental base. Lest anybody lament the demise of Feu d'Issey, its legacy continues in fragrances such as Bulgari Black, Kenzo Amour and SL Douce Amere. And of course, Etro Etra.

Dior J'Adore

Notes: mandarin, champaca flowers, ivy, african orchid, rose, violet, damascus plum, amaranth wood, blackberry musk (from Sephora)

I never smelled J'Adore before, and had always read it is a peachy floral. I can't say I am disappointed--there is indeed some very juicy peach and a soft, powdery rose which turns bitter and "perfumy" later in the development. The fragrance is quite pleasant, although the rose presentation reminds me of an old-fashioned rose fragrance. If it weren't for the peach note, the rose would deteriorate into a sickly rose soliflore, the kind that gives rose a bad name in perfumery. Yet, there is a familiar comfort to this fragrance--the fruit and floral are not candy-like, and the powder is not sweet. J'Adore is sophisticated and evokes a confident maturity. The peach and rose die down into the middle portion of the fragrance, letting the other mixed florals come forth. But, the peach never really stops--it stays in the background to give a cushioned framework for the florals to settle. This is well and truly a feminine composition. I am not bowled over by it, but I do marvel at the composure this fragrance has, and how it has a calming effect on my mood.

Dior J'Adore L'Eau Cologne Florale (2009 release)

Notes: bergamot, magnolia, neroli (from NowSmellThis)

Who put Miss Dior Cherie into my J'Adore? At first spray, I smelled soft and light notes of watery peach and grapefruit in a cloud of soft florals. It smells GREAT on paper. On my skin, the fresh and slightly biting grapefruit note turn bitter in the same way that Miss Dior Cherie has a bitter, medicinal edge. It is as if I failed to correctly swallow an aspirin, was left with a terrible taste in my mouth, and attempts to wash it down with fruit punch did not work. Thankfully, later in the development, the fragrance tempers a bit. The peach and floral notes stay prominent well into the drydown, reminding me that this is indeed J'Adore and not necessarily a hollow version of itself. I wonder though--who is it that thinks if you add a dose of acidic or sour smelling notes, that a fragrance suddenly becomes "light and fresh"? I must admit, J'Adore L'Eau is not really unpleasant in any way. However, I am having a hard time accepting that the original, composed and calm J'Adore can be easily converted into a fresher version by adding the olfactory equivalent of Vitamin C. Was the original not fresh enough? Alas, I am sucked in by the modern, sparkly quality J'Adore L'Eau has. It fits my idea of a clean, fruity, floral and slightly soapy fragrance done in the contemporary style.

Dior Miss Dior Cherie

Notes: mandarin, strawberry leaf, violet, jasmine, caramel popcorn, wild strawberry sorbet, musk, and patchouli (from NowSmellThis)

I tried to love MDC, I really did. Sometime last year, I tried it from a Sephora sample, and found myself scrubbing within minutes. The indelible memory of that moment was of a sweet and tart berry-flavored hard candy: Jolly Rancher. For anybody who does not know what a Jolly Rancher candy is, let me explain. It is one of the most artificial, sugar sweet, acidic, mouth puckering, tooth decaying candies I have encountered. Needless to say, the first time I tried MDC, I felt more like some artificial flavoring had been sprayed on my arm rather than a designer fragrance.

Fast forward to today--I recently got another sample thinking maybe my tastes had evolved since my first trial. Well, turns out, my tastes DID evolve. Now, instead of Jolly Rancher candy, I smell artificial strawberry gelatin dessert (Jell-O). And, to add to the misery, it is Jell-O sweetened with artificial sweetener (aspartame or saccharine). So, what I experience is the sickly and tacky strawberry flavoring that resembles nothing of a real strawberry, the bitter, medicinal edge of saccharine sweetener, carried in a fluffy cloud of artificial vanilla and sanitized "gourmand" patchouli.

To be fair, MDC smelled really enticing for about 5 minutes while the other chemicals (whatever they are) tempered the strawberry with some plastic floral notes.

Dior Miss Dior Cherie L'Eau (2009 limited release)

Notes: bigarade orange, fruity notes, gardenia, floral notes, white musk, patchouli, caramel, dry woods (from OsMoz)

When I first sprayed MCDL'E, I smelled strawberry lemonade. Given my trepidation with the original Miss Dior Cherie, it would seem that strawberry lemonade might be equally vile. On the contrary--MDCL'E is actually BETTER to my nose than the original. Perhaps it is my weakness for fluffy, citrus-vanilla accords talking (Guerlain Shalimar and Habit Rouge), because I find the L'Eau flanker to be pleasant, soft and fresh. The effect is a balance of sweet, sour and bitter that is very uplifting and somewhat reminiscent of traditional cologne. In the latter development, the florals show themselves as a diaphanous bouquet where no one flower is identifiable. The florals are joined by a lightly powdered and inedible vanilla, anchored by soft woods and a very, very clean patchouli. I can't say that MDCL'E is terribly original--it seems to hit all the same marks that a modern fruity-floral-woody-oriental has. On the other hand, when interpreted in the traditional cologne context, I think many women may find this fragrance equally refreshing, but much more feminine than most unisex cologne waters.

Sisley Eau de Campagne (EDT)

Notes: top notes, bergamot, galbanum, lemon, basil; heart notes, tomato leaves, plum, jasmine, geranium, lily-of-the-valley; base notes, oak moss, patchouli, vetiver, white musk (from OsMoz)

I must start this review with a disclaimer: Eau de Campagne smells very different on my skin than it does on paper. On paper, I smell mostly what other reviewers have smelled--lush green opening of galbanum and other bitter plant stems followed by a lovely lemon-based citrus melange, cradled by a herbal accord. The effect is intoxicating, evocative of all the scents you might experience in a well-tended herb, vegetable and citrus-tree garden. Florals are listed in the notes, but scent-wise, these components collectively play a supporting role to the more prominent green and herbal notes. Later, a soft white soap note comes forth giving a very clean finish to the entire experience.

On skin--what a difference. The galbanum and other green notes begin to fade almost immediately, forcefully pushing the lemon out front. The effect is of a greenish or unripe fruit at first, due to the lingering bitter plant notes. Soon, the lemon becomes as sweet as an edible lemon candy, and is quickly joined by the white soap note. For a while, the combination of lemon and soap give the impression of fine bath or shaving products. Unfortunately, as the lemon fades into a kind of sulfuric funk that most citruses suffer from, the soapy note becomes sour and harsh. It has been quite a ride in under one hour.

Shiseido Zen (amber cube-shaped bottle):

Top notes are grapefruit, bergamot, peach, pineapple and blue rose; mid notes include freesia, gardenia, red apple, violet, lily of the valley, hyacinth, rose from China and lotus flower; base notes include patchouli, cedar, musk, white musk, amber, incense and marine plant. The "blue rose" note is an imaginary abstract note based on rose and violet and freshened by a lemony note, as perfumer Michel Almairac explained for the original Zen. (from Scented Salamander)

The grapefruit is most prominent in the top notes--a clean, non-sulfuric citrus scent combined with a note that smells sort of like watermelon. I suppose the listed notes of peach and pineapple can evoke a watery, generic fruit note, but to me it still smells like watermelon! There is an ingredient in this fragrance which hints at woody herbs--in fact, it has a vague ammonia note, the one I often smell in fougeres. It is subtle here, thank goodness. The herbal note gives the fragrance a bit of a green, scrubby edge, but it is definitely not bordering on masculine by any means. As the mid notes develop, I also smell something slightly ozonic, and to my surprise, it is completely at home here, not off-putting in any way. What a difference it makes to have a note coming out right on cue and in a context that allows the note to actually WORK. For some reason, the sour, wet fruit notes combined with woody herbs and ozone reminds me of Chanel Allure Sensuelle, except that in the latter case, I feel almost as if the top notes were tacked onto a base that was developed for a completely separate fragrance. Not so with Zen, although I can't say that Zen's base is particularly special, either. Perhaps a comparison to Chanel Coco Mademoiselle might be a bit more apt, although I find that Zen is such a simplistic thing compared to Coco Mlle.

The middle development of Zen is long and linear. Most of the grapefruit is lost, but the anonymous peach keeps plucking away until the fragrance turns into a very high quality "dryer sheet" soap scent. Estee Lauder, eat your heart out--Zen is soft, pleasant, a bit boring, and it does not give me a headache like most of the EL white floral offerings do. It does strike me as strange that a fragrance containing so many floral ingredients can smell so much of soap, though. I'd say Zen is as soapy as Prada Infusion d'Iris but without the lovely refinement that I enjoy in the Prada fragrance. Longevity is surprisingly long--in a separate wearing, three sprays shared between two arms lasted all day and it was still strongly perceptible the next morning.

Shisedo Zen Summer (white cube-shaped bottle):

Top notes: lemon, cedrat, apple, grapefruit, peach, blackcurrant; heart notes: freesia, gardenia, blue rose, lily of the valley, lotus bloom; base notes: raspberry, cedar, musk, amber. The "blue rose" note is an imaginary abstract note based on rose and violet and freshened by a lemony note, as perfumer Michel Almairac explained for the original Zen. (from Scented Salamander)

The summer edition of Zen opens with a sweet fruit melange--I smell mostly peach (or nectarine) and grapefruit, with the emphasis on the peach. Because of the grapefruit, the peach does not become a sweet, fuzzy or ripe fruit, but rather smells watery, refreshing and slightly green. Compared to Zen, which puts less emphasis on the fruit and more emphasis on the woods and soapy florals, Zen Summer's peach fruit stays present through most of the development, even into the soft, soapy drydown. I was surprised that this fragrance actually reminds me of Shiseido's Energizing Fragrance which does not list any fruit notes (that I could find). However, Zen Summer is not as uplifting nor as complex as EF. This is not to say EF is terribly complex, but it is a bit scary that a fragrance I originally though of as straight-forward seems more interesting than this newer composition. Perhaps Zen as a concept is supposed to be minimal, but I hardly think that means the fragrance must be insipid. At any rate, it is enjoyable enough. I thought I would like it better than Zen (in the amber cube-shaped bottle), but it did not turn out that way. Regardless, Zen Summer is very fresh, light, makes very little statement, and lacks any semblance of personality. Longevity is excellent--two sprays lasted all day in a previous wearing.

Czech & Speake Neroli

Neroli is an Eau de Cologne, and as such is light and uplifting. On first application (from a dabber sample), it smells of bitter orange, neroli blossom and orange flower water. There is a sharpness to the blend that is vaguely powdery and bitter, and something here reminds me of leather. The neroli is quite indolic for a very short time, and the orange flower water gives the fragrance a very classic feel. The opening accord gives way to a synthetic mandarin orange accord which I have smelled in Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Mandarin Basilic. The synthetic note has a bit of an edge that gives modernity to what first seemed like a very classic composition. Traditional colognes typically fade quickly and are valued most for their refreshing "burst" on warm days or after bathing. With this in mind, C&S Neroli seems almost a hybrid--the opening citrus and floral components blossom wildly in the first ten minutes, and then the rest of the fragrance rides out on a lingering citrus note, light florals and a sweet musk base, soft but much stronger than I would expect from a cologne. The sharp edge I sensed earlier continues as a subtle mid note, and has a quality about it that reminds me of the leathery tea accord which is used in Bulgari Eau Parfumee au The Vert. In the drydown, I occasionally catch whiffs of the neroli which is a tad soapy but mostly floral. I really love the quality of the neroli note--it is very similar to the gorgeous neroli in Abdes Salaam Attar Profumo Morning Blossom, but not featured nearly so well as it is in Profumo's composition. C&S Neroli can easily be worn by men or women, although the leathery tea-like quality and the musk base tilt it a bit toward the masculine.

Institut Tres Bien Cologne a L'Italienne

This Eau de Cologne is light and refreshing. It starts with a burst of sweet orange fruit and aromatic bergamot. The fragrance develops quickly, and this was expected considering it is very much rooted in the traditional cologne genre. The juicy orange note is the first to fade, and the bergamot carries on into the mid notes, joined by petitgrain and soapy neroli. I don't smell much in the way of herbal components such as rosemary or lavender, although these notes tend to meld with petitgrain's woodyness. The soapyness of the neroli gives this composition a very clean feel. I much prefer a more floral neroli, and thankfully I do smell the floral aspect along with the soapyness. The drydown is a lovely soft and slightly powdery vanilla amber. Despite that this fragrance seems to be extremely straightforward, hitting all the traditional cologne benchmarks as it develops, I find it to be very satisfying. As is expected with colognes, it is short lived with low sillage. This seems much more unisex than other cologne-type fragrances I have tried. Any herbal content it may have does not overwhelm, become "sweaty" or overly masculine. The sweet amber base is not cloying or overly feminine. As Goldilocks said of baby-bear's porridge, it is Just Right.

Guerlain Djedi vintage extrait

The first impression upon applying Djedi is a large dose of natural civet. Natural civet is much softer than the artificial version--although both have a sort of mothball quality, natural civet is much warmer and rounded, with a sweet, almost floral aspect that the artificial chemical never achieves. Quickly, the civet moves more to a supporting role, and a very leathery note emerges. I think it is probably birch tar since there is a slight petrochemical, smoky and tannic edge to it. The sweetness of the civet is quite nice with the birch tar, knocking off the sharp corners of the birch tar harshness. As the mid notes continue to develop, powder also becomes more apparent. It is the sweet and dry powder that I normally associate with orris root. There are probably also some other florals present, but I can't pick out any particular one. There is simply a floral feel to the composition, not unlike Chanel Cuir de Russie, but more subdued and quite a bit drier.

The intermediate dry iris and birch tar stage lasts a rather long time--quite nice since this part of the development is immensely pleasing. One thing I find interesting are the two thoughts that keep popping into my head. First, that Djedi seems like a rather cool fragrance. The composition itself is not cooling or mentholated, and it is not cool in the sense of a green fragrance category, but the dry chypre leather composition creates a distant and aloof impression. Second, I keep thinking that this is probably what Parfumerie Generale Cuir d'Iris was inspired by, but I must say, Cd'I fell short by several miles. Djedi is a soft, powdery and dry orris and oakmoss leather. Cuir d'Iris is bottled leather tanning chemicals in comparison.

In the drydown, Djedi is quite diffuse with primarily oakmoss and a few remaining hints of the orris root I smelled more strongly in the mid notes. The birch tar has also become significantly attenuated, and I think the remaining smokyness I smell is probably from vetiver. There is still a rather strong leather note, so it is possible Djedi contains one of the major leather aromachemicals used in perfumery. It is quite subtle, however, and had the effect of carrying the birch tar impression into the drydown. I have been wondering where the Guerlain vanilla or tonka might be, and just when I was about to give up, caught the olfactory version of a glimpse in the drydown--it is a slightly sweet undertone rather than a main note in the base. Djedi is a beautiful dry leather chypre, subdued, smooth and composed from beginning to end. It seems a bit on the masculine side, especially compared to Chanel Cuir de Russie, but is undoubtedly wearable by either men or women.

Roger and Gallet Blue Carnation (parfum)

On first application from a dabber sample, Blue Carnation smells very sharp and almost leathery. The opening accord has a slight plastic edginess combined with antiseptic herbal and clove notes. I am pretty sure it is not leather I smell, but it is very evocative of the smell of modern industrially produced leather products. I am really drawn into this fragrance which so far is not terribly gentle nor floral. I am reminded of leathery chypres, especially some of the classics. However, I am certain it is the olfactory imagery of a perfect carnation blossom that provides such a rich and colorful sensation. BC's complexity gives contrasting cues of a herbal, medicinal, and cool (almost mentholated) side along with sweet, embracing floral nectar and warm spices.

As BC begins to settle, it becomes less leathery, and the central carnation accord takes shape with its fresh, dewey and soft diffuseness surrounding a direct and powerful clove and bay spiced heart. It is so beautiful, it almost hurts to smell it. The fragrance is mostly linear in the middle stages, a true carnation soliflore. However, as it develops, BC becomes softer and creamier while still retaining its identity. The creamyness gradually increases while the spice recedes. Even two hours into the fragrance, BC smells of a crisp, living carnation.

I can hardly believe that this fragrance was an early 20th century creation. It smells clean, clear, bracing, modern--and, not artificial. I can't understand why Roger and Gallet would discontinue such a transcendent fragrance. On the other hand, I can't see BC fitting into the latest fashion trends. It is classic, well made, different (not very many *good* carnation soliflores out there) and very pleasing to wear. I love carnation and am very picky about how it is represented in fragrance. Blue Carnation meets and exceeds my expectations--it is unassuming and magnificent from beginning to end.

Parfumerie Generale Aomassai

Notes: caramel, toasted hazelnuts, licorice, bitter orange, spices, wenge wood, vetiver, balsam wood, incense, dried grasses, resins (from luckyscent.com)

On first spray, Aomassi is incredibly sweet, the main note being burnt and caramelized sugar. Under this note is something more "fresh" and green smelling--I was not sure what this could be, so I sprayed the fragrance on a tissue for slower development. The green note smells very much like celery to me, both watery and herbal. I find the smell of celery to be rather off-putting, and its presence really takes a note I find difficult (burnt sugar) and turns it into a nauseating mess. Imagine the combination of carbon (smoky, gritty), sugar (sweet), caramel (balsamic) and celery (medicinal, aquatic). I am pretty sure this is a love-it-or-hate-it combination of notes, and unfortunately, it is one that I find almost intolerable. I am thankful that there is not anything *wrong* with this accord, i.e., I have no headache, runny nose, nor any hyperosmia. I simply do not like it. And it doesn't help that it turns my stomach.

The top accord wears off after about an hour to reveal a sweet vanillic, powdery and light floral middle and base. The drydown is lovely, although not anything ground breaking. The powder is nicely subdued and never becomes harsh or sharp. The vanilla is well done, slightly woody and leathery, and does not venture into cooking extract territory. There is a tiny bit of spice which is barely perceptible. I am sure the spice helps round out the fragrance, especially since the sweetness carries all through the development. The very late drydown is faint, and smells vaguely dry, woody, spicy and powdery. Longevity is low, around 3 hours, and sillage is light to moderate. Aomassi seems quite feminine, but with its smoky and green top notes, a man may enjoy it also.

Miller Harris Cuir d'Oranger

Notes: top notes of orange oil Valencia, pettigrain Paraguay and shimmering orange flowers Tunisia, fused with jasmin Egypt and orris absolute resting on a rich base of leather with birch tar, Spanish ciste, oak moss and patchouli (from The Perfumed Court website)

On first spray of Cd'O, I smell spicy pepper, citrus and light florals. Soon, this is followed by deeper green notes, powdery moss, and iris. The fragrance is mostly dry and bitter after the initial blast, and this is offset by juicy orange and sweet floral notes. Pepper is not listed in the notes, but I do smell something which reminds me of black pepper. However, I have noticed that sometimes patchouli can have a peppery quality, so this could be a factor. The iris is buttery and a little candied, reminiscent of the iris in Miller Harris' Terre d'Iris, but less overt.

In the mid development, Cuir d'Oranger loses the fruity orange, but still maintains a citrus quality due to the petitgrain. Petitgrain is bitter and woody, and it blends beautifully with the oakmoss and iris. The pepper note has actually become stronger, but it seems more vegetal than in the early stage. The powder is also more prominent, and has a rooty and bitter quality that is quite diffuse. There is a tiny bit of sweetness, probably from the orris and perhaps some of the floral notes. So far I am perplexed about the leather portion of this fragrance. I think I can smell it faintly in the base notes, but it seems that for the beginning and middle development, I am mostly led to the illusion of leather due to the dusty, almost tannic quality of the oakmoss, orris and petitgrain combination. I am sure the patchouli is also chiming in on this too, as there is a deep earthyness present which anchors the ephemeral powder into something more substantial.

As Cuir d'Oranger approaches the drydown, a smokiness begins to emerge. This could be the birch tar note and perhaps some vetiver. The fragrance is still quite dry and bitter, has a touch of pepper, and is much softer overall. The powder accord is beautiful--it is not like baby powder at all, rather, it is green and dry, evocative of living plant aromatics in a garden or forest. I am reminded of the smell of many plants in the artemesia family, such as southernwood or wormwood. These plants have an astringent, medicinal and sweet herbaceous smell that permeates the air. That is the sense of this powder accord in Cd'O. Lovely. The leather is still not strong, and really seems to play a supporting role to the oakmoss, vetiver and other notes. The fragrance stays mostly in this form for the rest of the development. However, in very late stages (7-10 hours later), the Cd'O has almost nothing left of the dry mossyness and settles into a sweet amber skin scent.

Sillage is strong at first, and moderate for the majority of the development. Longevity is very good--in overnight wears, I can smell the amber base the next morning. Cuir d'Oranger is listed as a unisex fragrance. I agree with this designation, although it seems to be a touch on the masculine side. When compared to other leather chypres, it is not as floral as those which would be considered more feminine. The leather component of Cd'O is really not a major player, but the fragrance is immensely enjoyable nonetheless, especially with Lyn Harris' beautiful use of oakmoss and the warming pepper note.

[NOTE: I see that some reviewers have mentioned that the oakmoss is more prominent in cooler weather--today was a sunny 65F day, and the oakmoss really came out for me!]

Lanvin Scandal (vintage extrait)

Notes (from Perfume Shrine):

Top: neroli, bergamot, mandarine, clary sage.
Heart: jüchten (cuir de Russie), iris, rose, ylang
Base: incense, civet, oakmoss, vanilla, vetiver, benzoin

Scandal has been compared to Chanel Cuir de Russie which I am wearing on my other arm for reference (modern formulation, parfum strength).

On first application of Scandal, I smell penetrating white florals with a slight urinous quality. This could be the age of the vintage juice, or it could be a lily-like note within the composition. It is slightly powdery, but not as much as Cuir de Russie which seems to have a cool, dry iris note right up front. The leather in Scandal comes out quickly, and is such an incredible rendering of real leather, that I would probably not be able to distinguish between the fragrance and a pair of well-tanned boots in a blind sniff test. I smell smoky birch tar and castoreum--the birch tar note is not as plastic or petrochemical as it seems to be in Cuir de Russie, rather, it is more woody and resinous. The castoreum does not have the antiseptic "band-aid" edge that I have smelled in other fragrances (L'Artisan Dzing! for example), but has a softened horse stable smell of hay, wood, dried manure and saddle leather. I also smell a slight tinge of tobacco and vanilla. Comparing to CdR at this stage, Scandal smells drier, bitter, green, mossy, much more leathery and animalic, and a bit less floral. Both seem to be equally powdery at this point, and I suspect that the iris in the mid notes of Scandal are starting to come out.

Scandal's middle leather stage lasts a couple of hours, and slowly evolves from bitter, dry, almost harsh leather to a softer, creamy leather with floral notes. It never has the sweet, floral-leather which is almost like butter stage that CdR has, but next to Scandal, CdR does not have the same leather prominence throughout the entire development. CdR also seems much more feminine than Scandal, perhaps because it is not nearly as dry and mossy. However, it is at the late middle stage that both Scandal and CdR smell the most alike with refined, softened leather and mildly sweet floral notes (iris and mixed white florals). I didn't smell civet very strongly in Scandal today, but I did smell it from time to time in a previous wearing. The civet (cat-pee and mothball-like notes) in Scandal is restrained--it is much less harsh and edgy than the civet I have smelled in other modern fragrance formulations. It mostly comes out in the late-middle drydown.

In the late development, some incense and sweet (now banned) musks show themselves in Scandal's base. The incense is not like the burned frankincense aromachemical I have smelled in modern perfumes. It is more like a combination of garden sage, which has a smoky quality to it, ash and mild resins. The ash note is almost like burning sage from a sage bundle, so it is not quite the smell of burned tobacco (ie, ashtray smell), but is more herbal, green, dry and medicinal. I am sure there is also some vetiver, which typically adds to the smoky vegetal note, and oakmoss which is very mossy, dry and powdery. In comparison, CdR is still much sweeter and floral, and has completely lost the earlier birch tar smoke note. Scandal is very firmly rooted in the woody leather chypre family with resins and oakmoss in the base. It is a beautiful composition from beginning to end, a joy to wear, and frankly, is what I wish modern leather chypres would be. Sillage is light to moderate, longevity is moderate (skin scent after 6 hours), and it is very wearable for either men or women.

I am not sure what to think...I just sprayed Rush and I smell something like old carpeting that has been "freshened" by sprinkling some kind of carpet deodorizer. Rose scented carpet deodorizer. More generally, I smell old and wet fiber, sour cherry candy and tart artificial rose. I think my sample is fine as it is fairly fresh from Sephora. And I think it is labeled correctly. I wonder if it is supposed to be slightly floral-tropical--this wet cardboard note reminds me of some tropical florals such as tuberose. Thankfully, the wet fiber note fades into the background, giving a bit of body to the composition without being completely perceptible.

Something about Rush reminds me of Dior Hypnotic Poison. Perhaps it is that they both have a kind of candied tropical floral feel to them at some point in their respective developments. Otherwise there is very little intersection between the two. Rush eventually moves into scented hair product territory and reminds me quite a bit of the latest shampoo fragrance trends of tart fruits and botanicals. It is soapy, with hints of blended florals, grapefruit, dry powder and mixed berries. I like Rush much more in the drydown, although I am not sure I need an EDP to make me smell like really good shampoo. Still, it is not so bad to have a soapy fragrance--it smells "just washed", in a way. However, I don't really understand the raves about Rush. It seems like it is well made but unremarkable.

Wow, this one is so sour and sweet to start, it almost makes my teeth ache. Addict is very candy-like to start--cherry, sugar, a bit of milky vanilla and some sour berries. There is a hint of powder and some faint florals which never really balance the fragrance as it develops. The tart, almost Granny Smith Apple quality reminds me a bit of SJP Covet. However, Addict leans quite a bit more toward being floral, and the sweet vanilla powder is rather pretty and feminine at this stage, even if it is a mere shadow of the original vanilla powder oriental, Shalimar.

I smell something in the mid notes which is bitter. I am not sure what this note is, but I have smelled it in other fragrances such as Rochas Tocade. Perhaps it is a slight edginess to the powder note. It is more unpleasant in Addict than I found it to be in Tocade, although I am fairly certain both fragrances would be better without this bitterness. Addict is rather gourmand-like, with a clean patchouli and sweet latex rubber notes in the base. Eventually, the latex, bitter note, vanilla and patchouli conspire to smell like burned plastic. The late drydown smells like baby powder with that same bitter edge from before.

I can't find anything about Addict that sets it apart from other feminine fruity-floral-quasi-gourmand fragrances. As far as I can tell, it uses the same ingredients but in slightly different proportions: something like a Jolly Rancher candy, an artificial non-descript floral, a cleaned up patchouli, vanilla, powder, and an optional rubber note which may be an attempt at almond. I also can't find anything about Addict that makes it wearable.

Hermes Equipage

On first application (from a dabber sample) the top notes smell of citrus and soap--bright, refreshing and soft. To my nose, the citrus seems to be mainly orange and bergamot, and the soapy note is a sort of a white bar soap smell which seems similar to Ivory soap. The citrus is juicy and fruity at first, but this fades into a more woody citrus. The soapyness fades also, and an herbal accord becomes more apparent. The herbs are mildly medicinal, probably a combination of lavender with some other camphor-like evergreen such as pine. I often have trouble when herbal notes are very strong in a fragrance, and I am pleased that Equipage has a more subdued use of its herbal accord. It seems fresh and bracing without being sharp or overly penetrating, even though I do smell a slight ammonia edge. I also smell a pleasant aromatic wood, possibly cedar, and it blends very well with the herbal accord making it seem grounded and earthy.

Later in the development, the herbal accord mellows, and no traces of citrus are discernible. The woody note is soft and creamy, more like a combination of cedar and sandalwood. It is not as creamy as the woody drydown of Chanel Egoiste, and Equipage has only a hint of spice as compared to Egoiste's spice melange. There is a sweetness in the base that was not apparent earlier--vanilla or tonka, sweet musk and perhaps a hint of amber. Overall, I am not particularly bowled over by Equipage, but it strikes me as a quiet, well balanced, traditional fougere with high quality ingredients. It does not seem to have any powder or oakmoss in the base as I would expect in an older traditional formula, so I suspect what I am testing is a reformulation. I find it to be very pleasant--not a fragrance that makes an overt statement, but one that gives a sense of solidity, tradition and familiarity without seeming old fashioned or dated. I can see this being a great daily-wear scent, probably mostly for men, but wearable for women as well. Sillage is medium to low and longevity seems to be rather short--Equipage went to the drydown in 2 hours to become mostly a skin scent. This may differ if more fragrance is applied by atomizer.

Tauer Lonestar Memories

On first spray, I smell burning rubber and smoke--a lot of smoke, like the simultaneous sweet and acrid smoke of burning tires combined with wood fire smoke. The early stage of the fragrance also has a sugary vanilla quality--it could be some amber lurking in the mid or base notes. There is some leather present, and it seems like new leather made in industrial production rather than the hand-tanned leather I would expect from something called Lonestar Memories. In the mid notes, the sweet vanilla quality I smelled in the beginning becomes stronger while the smoke and leather remain. The effect is sweet latex rubber mixed with a mentholated note such as wintergreen or sweet birch. This accord is a bit sickening, and it reminds me too much of household cleaning products. LM is definitely a fragrance that smells different from further away than it does up close. With some more distant whiffs, I actually like its sweet spearmint chewing gum effect, despite a growing headache which this fragrance has induced. Mostly, I can't understand the appeal of LM. In fact, the fragrance on the whole is very chemical smelling and heavy-handed. Furthermore, it does not evoke western-style leather for me at all--it smells like factory-assembled leather athletic shoes with rubber soles, toxic glue, and a wad of chewing gum stuck to the bottom.

I had a mixed reaction when I first applied LPd'O. It smelled like the world's best vintage handcream--like something my grandmother had on her dresser, something I would sneak whiffs of, but never had the guts to sneak a little for my skin. So, I had this impression of something classic, but at the same time, I smelled fresh dewey rose and a touch of spicy carnation, sweet vanilla and sugar-sweetened whipped cream. The drydown seems to also have a bit of gentle powder and amber. It makes me think of what Chanel Coco would be if it were more floral, less oriental and much less "big". LPd'O maintains its classic sensibility for a long time, never smells fusty, and is worthy of many deep inhalations. I love this for the nostagia alone.

I tried the vintage "Red Box" version of this, thanks to a generous BNer. I really want to love this one--all the descriptions I have heard are so luscious and inviting. On first spray, it has bracing, fresh herbs (a mixture of evergreens and probably lavender), with a soapy note and something sweet underneath. The herbal melange is rather harsh in the beginning, but it settles to be a balanced uplifting and energizing accord. I don't see that it is very unusual--it seems to be a classic and formulaic fougere. I think what makes this great is that it is very wearable, not pretentious and, at one time, was highly accessible at a good price. It also smells like it is going to have a really gorgeous "come hither" drydown. Unfortunately, as with many fougeres, I smell ammonia (could be some kind of hyperosmia). Thankfully it is not as strong as with some other fragrances I've tried, but it is pronounced enough to be uncomfortable for me to wear. The ammonia also makes it very difficult for me to pick out the very beautiful notes that most others seem to be able to experience.

Parfumerie Generale L'Ombre Fauve

Notes: amber, musk, woods, incense, patchouli (from luckyscent.com)

On first spray, L'Ombre Fauve smells like a sweet but dilute vanilla-based amber, and has a metallic note that I often smell when incense is used in a fragrance. I must say, this stage is not very pleasant, as with all the other fragrances that have this issue on my skin. To my nose, it smells slightly ozonic or fresh, with only the tiniest hint of smoke. As L'OF dries, the ozone thankfully fades fast. The smokiness increases, and the sweet vanilla, resin and woody base notes come out more fully. When the ozone note has completely burned off, I smell sweet and smoky vanilla, aromatic woods, vetiver, labdanum, patchouli, powder and resins. It sounds like a traditional recipe, but L'OF seems clean and modern. The resins are not sweaty or heavy, the patchouli is peppery rather than dirt-like. Even the smoke smells like it has been scrubbed. And yet, I don't sense that this is a particularly sanitized scent.

As with many of the PG fragrances, I don't find L'OF terribly complex or challenging. I find I am unable to describe a technicolor note development, because most of the PG scents I have tried vary little over a long wearing. However, I always find that PG fragrances have a fullness that is very satisfying, and they often give a nod to traditional fragrance forms while having some kind of artistic twist to make them new and unusual. L'Ombre Fauve fits this house style perfectly. It is a beautiful vanilla-prominent amber with enough smoky, earthy spice to keep the vanilla exotic and inedible. The longer it stays on the skin, the more the fragrance warms and opens, and into the next day I can smell the luscious vanilla lingering.

Bois 1920 Real Patchouly

Notes: Texas citron, Indian sandalwood, vanilla, amber (from luckyscent.com)

The first spray of Real Patchouly reminds me of Parfum d'Empire Ambre Russe without the heaviness. RP is slightly boozy, but rather than the light fizzy vodka-champagne with heavily cured leather and thick amber I get from Ambre Russe, the booze in RP is more like cognac or bourbon with hints of vanilla, cherry, smoke, wood and tobacco. For me, it evokes the inside an oak cask that was charred and then used to age wine or whiskey. The patchouli is not very forward in the beginning, but it is definitely there, and blends with the booze notes very nicely. There is a sort of cool mentholated note--not mint per se, but it cold be the aromatic effect of the spicy and earthy patchouli. The wood note is pleasant, and mostly smells like cedar with a touch of sandalwood.

I have noticed with other Bois 1920 scents that there seems to be a house accord which is used in several of the fragrances--it is a lemon, vanilla and resin blend which is very lightly oriental, sweet, warm, and a little powdery. This accord is present in RP, and since vanilla and resin are typically part of amber, the accord is very well placed here. It gives RP a buoyancy and freshness that is often lacking in patchouli fragrances. Into the drydown, the soft lemon and vanilla are mainly a support for the very clear, aromatic wood and patchouli notes. The effect is somewhat diffuse and cloud-like, and simultaneously warm and cool, dry and sweet. This is definitely a "medium" amber, not heavy or dense, but made extremely rich by the beautiful herbal-woody-spicy aromatics that are characteristic of the woods and patchouli.

Bond No.9 Lexington Avenue

My impression upon first spray of Lexington Avenue is sugar-sweet, fruit and violet over a woody base. The violet is not a candied or edible type, but gives a greenish floral quality to the super sweet sugar cane note. I have seen LA compared to Shiseido Feminite du Bois, so I have sprayed FdB on my other arm for comparison. Sweet--yes. Violet--yes. Fruit--yes. Woody--yes. However, FdB is significantly more sophisticated with its judicious use of candied fruits and violet, and its gorgeous "alternate oriental" base which includes beeswax, cedar and spices. LA has a woody base, but the super sugary top notes are really masking it to the point of near oblivion. In the top and early mid notes, instead of a creamy cedar, I smell the same woodified, synthetic "clean" patchouli that I have smelled in several other designer gourmand fragrances.

The sugar top note eventually fades, and reveals a sharp vanilla-lavender powder note that I also smelled in Bond No.9 Chinatown. I was not particularly enamored of the baby product effect in Chinatown, nor am I liking it any better in LA. One plus, however, is that the attenuation of the sugar note allows the woody base to come out more, and the base is rather nice, even if nothing ground-breaking. Checking in with the FdB at this point, I find the beautiful blend of fruit, violet and woody base that makes FdB so special. I am smelling the similarities in the woods now, as LA shows a bit more cedar, like the FdB. Still, LA lacks the subtlety and finesse that FdB has. With LA, I feel bludgeoned by sweetness, powder and patchouli. Having said that, I do enjoy LA more than Chinatown so far.

A little deeper into the development, and LA is starting to resemble FdB more and more. The cedar in LA's base is quite similar to that in FdB. However, where FdB maintains its complexity and subtlety, LA seems more simplistic with its smothering powder note. Still, the drydown of LA has been the most enjoyable part for me. Thankfully, it didn't take too long to get to this point! In the deep drydown, it is so similar to FdB that I think it would be difficult to distinguish the two unless tested side-by-side. LA is sharper, less complex, and thin smelling. The powder note is still present, but not as overpowering as it was earlier, and a faint leather note has come forward. Overall, LA lacks the top to bottom mastery of FdB. It is almost as if Bond No.9 took three parts from a Jean-Paul Gaultier fragrance such as MaDame, one part Sheldrake woody-oriental base, and mixed them without any consideration for blending the composition seamlessly. The result is that LA lacks the irreverent pop-style of JPG and the artistry of Lutens/Sheldrake, and instead seems like a clumsy attempt at modernizing a now classic woody oriental without one iota of true homage to its predecessors. Having said that, I do find LA to be enjoyable enough that I would wear it a few more times. I do not think I would want a full bottle because I do not think Lexington Avenue will withstand the test of time as Feminite du Bois does.

Chanel Allure Homme Edition Blanche

Allure Homme Edition Blanche starts with refreshing citrus--mostly grapefruit with a touch of lemon and lime. I love grapefruit, but what has kept me from enjoying it in most fragrances is either the tendency for the grapefruit to get a little sweaty and urinous, or, in the case of highly synthetic grapefruit notes, the unchanging linearity which becomes boring and a little too overwhelming. I am pretty sure AHEB contains at least some natural citrus, because the scent is changing, deepening, becoming less of a zesty, fresh squeezed citrus and more like a glass of fresh grapefruit juice. I am also beginning to smell mandarine orange, which is pleasantly sweet--it softens the bitter edge of the grapefruit, and slightly covers the fact that the grapefruit is decomposing into its usual sulfuric compounds. Underneath the citrus I smell herbal notes--rosemary and perhaps an evergreen such as spruce. The development has been slow and steady, and an hour in, still has a pleasing citrus herbal tone, even though there is a bit of sharpness from the grapefruit.

Further into the development, the grapefruit is undoubtedly urinous and sufuric. I never find the ending stage of grapefruit pleasant, but there are some other notes in AHEB which mask it a bit. The fragrance has turned a bit more powdery, and the sweet base notes are starting to come forward more. I smell some faint florals, but nothing that is particularly recognizable. The sweetness could be vanilla or tonka, which might account for the powdery note. Unfortunately, the degraded grapefruit is really ruining this fragrance for me. The effect in the drydown is stale, oxidized grapefruit with weak perfumy powder. Sadly, it has really fallen apart and does not seem to be taking a desperately needed turn for the better. In the deep drydown, the grapefruit is more tolerable, but still recalls its earlier ugly sulfuric stage. The soft powder and vanilla does help, but there are times that the vanilla and grapefruit combine to give an orange flavored baby-aspirin effect. This is definitely not a dreamy drydown that I can sink into.

Guerlain Homme EDT

I am not sure I am smelling this right--is it sugared mint and herbs? I heard that GH had a mojito note in it, and so I was expecting something slightly alcoholic with a mint tinge to it. Instead what I smell is buttercreme mint candy. Mind you, it is not unpleasant, at least to me. Butter, sugar and mint--what is not to like? This phase is very short lived, and the herbs start taking over, bringing a medicinal pungency to the composition. I am pretty sure it is lavender, and perhaps rosemary, that starts to come out, and it really overwhelms the sweet sugary mint so that it is barely perceptible. Mostly what I smell of the mint is a coolness, that sort of "mentholated" effect that many mints have. The herb blend is rather common, so it is actually a relief to have this slight mint edge. I can't say GH is very distinctive--so far it is a typical run-of-the-mill fougere. However, the mint does give it a bit of individuality, and its very faint sweetness tones down the medicinal notes somewhat.

In the middle development, the herbs become more subdued, which is a welcome relief. Although I find herbs to be refreshing in a fragrance, sometimes the herbal notes are quite harsh and penetrating. I don't find this to be particularly pleasant--it is like having my nasal passages scrubbed with a sprig of rosemary. In some cases the herbal accord is so stringent as to be unbearable. GH skirts a thin line between refreshing and stinging, and thankfully doesn't stay there too long before the overall composition softens into a mellow herb blend combined with a sweet vanilla and musk base. Surprisingly, the mint has endured through the strong herbal phase, and reappears to blend with the base as a soft, sweet and cool note.

I was expecting to dislike GH, and I must say that even though I don't find it particularly masterful or ground-breaking, I am enjoying it a great deal. The drydown is sweet, but is not the old "guerlinade" of resins, musk and powdery vanilla. The drydown definitely has vanilla (or tonka) and musk, but it lacks the resins which often smell sweaty. It also lacks strong powdery notes that give a more classic vibe to a fragrance. The mint is completely gone in the drydown, but a little of the herbal accord remains to give a bit of sharpness to the base. There is also some leather and tobacco which gives a pleasant warmth to the fragrance. As with the earlier stages of development, there is nothing outstanding about the drydown, especially when compared to other men's designer fragrances. However, there is a sort of "X" factor here, and perhaps Guerlain has found the sweet spot where they can have a potentially popular scent which is also well crafted. I am impressed with this composition as a modern and youthful fragrance which reaches from the roots of classic fougere.

Guerlain Nahema parfum vs. Guerlain Nahema EDP

Nahema is supposedly a rose solifore fragrance that has no rose notes. It is with a combination of carefully selected ingredients that the olfactory image of a rose is reconstructed. Now that I think of it, that is probably the best way to do it--real rose absolute does not smell like a fresh rose blossom, nor do most of the synthetics I have smelled. I am sure this approach is used one way or another with any scent composition which attempts to mimic a natural scent that is difficult to capture directly from the source.

When I applied Nahema parfum (with a dabber sample), I smelled rose blossom immediately. The scent at first was somewhere between a tea rose and a damask rose--light and delicate, not terribly boozy, and only a bit spicy. As the fragrance rapidly developed, the interplay of notes seemed to change. I could still imagine rose when I smelled it, but the accord seemed much more fruity and tropical, with a touch of citrus. I do not know what the notes actually are, but I smelled cherry, almond, ylang and a lemony rosewood or citronella. The rosewood is the one ingredient which tended to destroy the rose imagery for me, but I only caught whiffs of it now and then. The most pervasive notes were the cherry and almond, and the two together gave a seemingly contradictory sweet, tart and bitter bite to the fragrance. The sharpness eventually softened in the drydown, although I still smelled cherry rather prominently. There appeared to be some sweet resins in the base, probably benzoin and perhaps a touch of vanilla, woods, some powder and very small amount of spice. There was also a waxyness in the parfum drydown, probably either from aldehydes or as part of the resinous base accord.

When I applied Nahema edp (also with a dabber sample), I did not smell rose right away. It was more of a warm, nutty scent, somewhat vegetal and a bit resinous. It was earthy without evoking dirt, smooth and rounded, and not floral at all. Once this top note started to fade, the rose emerged, and seemed to be exactly the same accord that is in the parfum. Whereas the rose accord in the parfum opened up, it stayed more compressed in the edp. I actually think this compressed effect is a better for preserving the overall rose impression. The use of the rose accord in the edp seemed softer, more homogeneous, and more minimalist. It is billowy and cushiony, more fleeting, and much less penetrating than the parfum. In this sense, it continued to give me an impression of a rose rather than reverting into its various component notes as it did in the parfum. There was a bit of the sharp cherry-almond edge in the edp, but it was much less prominent, keeping the fragrance from turning into a tropical fruit and flower melange. The soft and rounded theme continued into the drydown, and as the cherry and almond faded, resins, mellow wood and a very faint spice remained. The edp was not as powdery as the parfum, although neither was particularly strong in that note. Where the parfum was very waxy at this stage, the edp had less waxyness and seemed more woody--there was a wet cardboard effect that I caught once or twice.

Overall, I can see how Nahema is a fragrance worthy of acclaim. For any fragrance enthusiast who is hungry for a conceptual "fragrance experience", Nahema is a must-try. Like most conceptual works, however, I find myself wondering how wearable this fragrance is. There is certainly nothing offputting about it, and it is not really trying to push too many boundaries in terms of what women's fragrances have traditionally tended toward. I love the idea that the central rose accord was completely synthesized from other ingredients. But...would I love to own a full bottle, and would I wear it often? For me, the answer is probably not. Not at this moment, anyway. Of the two concentrations, I prefer the edp for is softness, and also because the rosewood and waxy notes are less prominent. Both developed very quickly, over the period of about one to two hours. Sillage seemed low to medium, with the perfume having a bit more projection. The cherry and almond in Nahema evoke other cherry-almond fragrances such as Dior Hypnotic Poison and Serge Lutens Datura Noir. However, Nahema captures a subtlety which is lacking in the Dior or Lutens. I noticed the same subtlety in Malle's L'Eau d'Hiver, another conceptual almond fragrance which must certainly pay homage to Nahema.

Chanel Cuir de Russie parfum

On first application from a dabber sample, I smell what seems to be strongly chemical leather tanning compounds. This type of leather scent is very refined, and has a sort of "new car" edge to it. Mingling quietly with the leather are light florals, some powder, and hints of manure, hay and antiseptic (castoreum) which gives a horse stable quality to the leather. Also lurking below the surface is some smoke which smells like tarry, plastic resin. It is not unpleasant like some fragrances that smell like burning plastic, but this is probably the birch tar note which gives a slight petrochemical slant to the leather. I am pretty sure there are some aldehydes also, as I smell some very faint soapyness. By far, though, the smoky tar note is the most prominent, and separates CdR from the more castoreum-heavy leather scents which are evocative of leather horse tack and saddles. Despite the barnyard quality of the castoreum, the birch tar makes the fragrance seem more industrialized, such as the smell of a freshly made pair of gentleman's boots or fine ladies' gloves.

The florals take on more of a supporting role in this fragrance in the beginning and middle stages. I am almost sure there is some iris in CdR, as there is a faint powder note which increases through the development. There is also a urinous note that becomes more intense. It seems to be very much a part of the leather, but could also be a sharp, indolic floral such as jasmine. As the parfum unfolds slowly during the middle stage, I also notice a creamy and spicy wood accord that reminds me of a similar accord in Bois des Iles or Egoiste. It is not a particularly recognizable wood, but is soft and warm, somewhat like sandalwood mixed with subtle amounts of cinnamon.

In the drydown, the floral and powder become much stronger, and the leather is mostly faded. The soft and spicy wood persists also, but the powder is the main note. Although there is really no overt leather note at this point, the floral and powder continue to evoke the memory of leather. The sharp white floral note seems most instrumental in maintaining the leather sensibility--it has been present throughout the whole development of the fragrance, and has morphed in character depending on the varying contexts of the other notes. In the drydown, the floral note is considerably softer, having lost much of its urinous edge. In the late drydown, CdR is mostly sweet vanilla, powder and perhaps a sweet musk, with a whisper of the floral and creamy wood notes still remaining. The leather is completely gone at this stage, about 4 hours after application.

With a fragrance like this, I fail to understand why Chanel tries to limit distribution. There is nothing particularly dated nor any age/gender limitations. CdR is a beautiful, classic, well-composed scent that seems appropriate for any age, man or woman, and probably any occasion, too. I am not a leather fragrance collector, but I think if I could only have one leather fragrance in my collection, CdR would be it.

Royall Lyme of Bermuda Royall Lyme

True to its name, Royall Lyme starts with a strong lime blast. It is refreshing--fruity and juicy without being candy-like. It evokes all parts of a lime, the aromatic rind, the juice and the pulp. I would not say it is sweet necessarily, but a balance of sweet, tart and bitter. The juicy part of the opening fades rather quickly, but the bitter lime rind lingers, and is joined by subtle spices (clove, cinnamon), bay, and sweet resins (benzoin). Eventually, RL starts to take on a dry floral powder note which I would guess to be orris. From time to time, I catch whiffs of lime rind, which adds a pleasant, slightly sour edge. I have only tried one other Royall fragrance, and with RL, I am starting to see that this house tends to produce non-fussy, straightforward and classic cologne water. Royall seems to have a house base which consists of resins, bay and spices with faintly present floral notes. It is very pleasant, and is fresh and clean smelling without being soapy. The bay note does add a "barbershop" sense to the composition, but in RL, the bay is quite subdued. This is preferable since to my nose, bay can easily hijack a fragrance--as a single note it is strong and long-lasting, so I appreciate the deft use of it in RL. RL was originally intended for men, but its overall balance of fruit, floral and muted bay/resin base makes this very wearable for a woman. As with most cologne waters, the longevity is rather poor, but most of these types of scents were intended as an after bath or after shave freshener. Total development took 3-4 hours, and the deep drydown is soft bay, benzoin and a bit of sweet powder.

Chanel No.19 EDT

No.19 starts with a very bitter galbanum note, backed by a fresh and green smelling iris root. I have always found very green fragrances to be a challenge, but No.19 is incredibly smooth. Even if galbanum is off-putting for some, it is used with such finesse here, that I feel compelled to keep sniffing. The galbanum fades relatively quickly on skin, and the beautiful iris root starts to take over. I also smell spicy florals, primarily rose but maybe also a touch of carnation. The floral notes are fresh and dewey, almost peach-like, but not overtly so. I love this stage, and I wish it lasted far longer. It is a tiny bit powdery, dry and sweet at the same time. Unlike other powdery scents which can venture in to baby product territory, the powder in No.19 stays fresh and crisp, with only a hint of sweetness to balance it. It never is cloying, and always seems "grown up".

I am sure No.19 has been reformulated, but the EDT does contain real oakmoss as the label indicates. In the drydown, the oakmoss comes forward, adding more of a mossy powder quality. Unexpectedly, I also smell a touch of vanilla or maybe a sweet resin or light, sweet musk. The florals are mostly faded at this point, so the vanilla/resin adds a bit of wetness and sweetness to the ultra-dry oakmoss. A tiny bit of wood is present, but extremely subtle--I think this wood note may help keep the earthy dryness and echoes the galbanum bitterness into the base.

I always thought No.19 was a better warm weather scent, but I actually prefer it now in the cooler weather. As an EDT, it develops mercilessly fast, but settles into a beautiful and refined base. No.19 on the whole is one of those fragrances that seems simple in its complexity--it has fullness, depth and balance all through the development, and never leaves me wanting. Even so, I rarely seem to reach for it. Despite its fresh and green quality, something about No.19 seems ultra-feminine and intimate. I completely disagree with notions that this is a cold, distant or "business-like" fragrance. To me it evokes the sweet calmness and serenity of nature on a perfect day.

Lentheric Tweed (vintage)

My vintage bottle of Tweed does not state the concentration. However, it is a splash bottle, so I suspect it is an EDC or EDT. I transferred some into an atomizer to test it, and on first spray I smelled a quick blast of bergamot. I suspect that some of the top notes have gone off due to age, because the fragrance shortly entered an unpleasant (but thankfully short-lived) "cat pee" stage. On the other hand, the notes of the reformulation state that Tweed has lavender, and I can see the resemblance of this somewhat ammoniac note with lavender essential oils I have smelled. It does smell herbal and a tiny bit floral, perhaps lily-of-the-valley or a similar light and fresh floral note.

Tweed is without a doubt a green chypre. Even the floral accord smells almost vegetal. The top notes fade incredibly quickly--so quickly that I had to spray some on a tissue to get a better idea of what was going on. On skin, after the bright floral and citrus dissipates, Tweed settles quite squarely into a lovely oakmoss base. It is a bit sweet with soft powder and dry moss. It is possible there is also some iris here, as there is a sort of dry and subtly sweet floral quality to it. However, oakmoss is definitely the main attraction, and all the other notes seem to fade into the background. In the drydown I also smell what seems to be some kind of resin, perhaps benzoin. It has a slightly sweaty smell to it, but it eventually fades. Benzoin could also account for the slight sweetness in the base. The deep drydown is all powdery, mossy oakmoss. It is a shame that this fragrance races through the development, however, I can't complain about the oakmoss ending. Smelling true oakmoss is a pleasure, especially at a time when many chypre fragrances suffer from reformulation to reduce or eliminate the oakmoss.

I give a neutral rating only because of the off top notes in the vintage juice.

Royall Lyme Bermuda Royall Muske EDC

My first impression is "barbershop musk". The opening has a sweet and clean musk, one which tends less toward soap and more toward an amber musk. There are also some fleeting florals at this stage, but no individual flower seems prominent. It sounds like it might not be a good combination, but it seems to work quite well. The florals are clean and bright without being heady, the musk is mellow and sweet. Underneath it all is that "barbershop" note which must be something like bay rum.

As RM develops, the florals fade and spicy notes emerge. There is a dryness to the spices which starts to balance the sweetness somewhat. It seems to be a spice melange of clove and cinnamon, and there is also an herbal component, probably bay or basil. The musk seems barely there, but I am sure it is helping to marry the composition as musk often does. As an EDC I was expecting RM to develop rapidly, and it is. I sprayed liberally, but after only about half an hour, it is really changing and toning down.

Within one hour, RM has settled thoroughly into its spiced bay rum base, with a hint of powder and musk that seems to come and go. The spices are stronger than I expected from an EDC, and are pleasant, but the fragrance as a whole is not particularly deep. I think this is to be expected, though, as Royall Lyme Bermuda has an entire line of cologne waters, and the expectation for these types of fragrances are exactly what RM delivers: a fresh and light splash for after the bath or a shave. I quite like it, and will enjoy it either alone or layered.

Helmut Lang EDC

I have worn this several times now...something about it seemed familiar yet strange at the same time, so I have been trying to figure it out. At first I thought there was an ozone or aquatic note in the top, but today I finally understand it...soap. HL in the EDC concentration has soapy aldehydes up front. I should point out that HL EDC is a clean musk, but it is not what I would call a white musk. It is sweet musk with soap. In other words, the musk part of the scent is not one of the soapy musk aromachemicals that is familiar in many white musk offerings such as Body Shop White Musk. Furthermore, I can wholeheartedly state that this soap and sweet musk combo has been thoroughly mimicked by Le Labo in their new release for Los Angeles, Musc 25. When I first tried HL, I really didn't like the top notes. Now that I have a bit of insight, I can't say I am still convinced that I will like it in the long run, but the recognition increases my comfort in wearing it. Besides, the whole reason I became fascinated by this fragrance is for the drydown.

The drydown is a very simple but gorgeous vanilla powder musk which is the closest thing I have ever smelled to my beloved pre-reformulation Coty Wild Musk. HL wears a little differently, though--when I sniff my arm, I can barely smell it. However, as I move around, I catch rather strong whiffs of the fragrance. Apparently this is one of those fragrances where distance matters. It takes an hour at least for the aldehydes to subside, and for the duration, the sweet vanilla powder remains. The drydown of HL fills some pretty big shoes from my fragranced past. I loved CWM, and so HL seems to be a viable substitute. The first couple of times I tried it, I thought it might be very weak and short lived because of its EDC concentration. It is indeed a subtle scent, but the EDC longevity is really not bad--4 hours at least after a liberal application.

I find it amusing that since this is now a discontinued fragrance, it is fetching rather high prices on the online auction and retail sites. Ironically, maybe in this case, Le Labo is the more affordable alternative.

Serge Lutens Douce Amere

Notes: Absinthe (Artemisia absinthum) , cinnamon, anise, lily, jasmine, tiare, tagette, marigold, musk, cedar (from luckyscent)

When I first tried Douce Amere months ago, I was expecting more of a spicy anise scent--even the notes would lead me to this expectation. So, when I didn't smell anise, I asked, "Where's the licorice they are talking about?" Finally, after several wearings, I realized that Douce Amere has a candy-like licorice top note that reminds me very much of black jelly beans. I happen to love black jelly beans as well as real black licorice, so the appeal of this fragrance is not lost on me. Underneath the licorice I smell vanilla and mixed soft woods.

In the middle part of the development, the licorice becomes more attenuated, less candy-like and more herbal. I understand the absinthe association more now--living wormwood foliage smells dusty, dry, herbal, medicinal, bitter, and only vaguely licorice-like. This is what I smell in Douce Amere, except that the absinthe is offset by sweet vanilla-like and coconut-like notes and some vague, unidentifiable florals. The woody note has become a bit more sharp at this stage. Although cedar is listed, it doesn't have the "cedar closet" or "hamster cage" type of cedar note. It is much more creamy, and mimics softer wood such as sandalwood.

In the drydown, vanilla, a tiny bit of licorice and mixed woods remain, continuing to give a sandalwood effect, which is sweet and only a tiny bit woody smelling to my nose. DA has a dusty and sweet powdery quality throughout the development, and overall is rather diffuse, especially toward the end. Other fragrances I would compare to DA are: Kenzo Amour, Kenzo Vintage Edition Peace (which is like Bulgari Black without the rubber), and most closely resembled by Keiko Mecheri Paname. All of these fragrances have a vanilla-powder sweetness with contextual variations, although Paname has a rather straightforward licorice note. DA is sweet, but the sweetness is offset by herbal pungency, resulting in an interesting twist on the oriental theme. I find Douce Amere to be more sophisticated than the comparison fragrances, but, in the grand scheme, it is not as sophisticated as other grand orientals such as Shalimar. I find the woody base notes to be very satisfying in Douce Amere, and for me, this is where many sweet/powder/vanilla/woody orientals fall short.

Serge Lutens Bois Oriental vs. Shiseido Feminite du Bois

It is rather difficult to wear Bois Oriental and not compare it to its "mother" scent, Feminite du Bois. I am wearing both today, with an eye toward teasing out the differences that Bois Oriental has to offer.

Upon initial application, FdB is immediately violet-woody. In contrast, the violet in Bois Oriental seems to be dramatically attenuated in favor of a fresh soda-like top note. The effect is sort of like lemon-lime soda or tonic water blended with the same waxy, woody cedar base that is used in FdB. Interestingly, the seeming lack of violet makes Bois Oriental seem much softer, less penetrating, less bright. It has a lovely muted quality that allows the woods to take a more central role. As far as the top notes go, this would be an excellent way to enjoy the wonderful FdB base for people who are not crazy about violet. On the down side, the top notes fade much more quickly than in FdB, so the middle stage is very faint and seems to lack the complexity of FdB.

Further into the middle stage, Bois Oriental and Feminite du Bois are closer in character. FdB still seems to have more violet than Bois Oriental, and this violet note gives FdB a feminine, powdery floral quality. Bois Oriental has much less of this powdery note, and seems to have more of a sweet, clean musk or amber note. Drydown comes rapidly with all the Bois fragrances (less than 2 hours and probably closer to 1 hour). In the drydown, Bois Oriental has most of the same notes as FdB--beeswax, cedar, spices--but it is softer and sweeter, probably due to the added musk/amber. The overall effect is much lighter, and at this stage, Bois Oriental is more of a skin scent than FdB. Feminite du Bois eventually catches up, though, and in the deep drydown, the two are nearly indistinguishable. It is the beeswax, wood and light spice that remain at the very end.

Overall, Bois Oriental is more muted, less complex and develops more rapidly than Feminite du Bois. I loved the soda opening and wished it lasted a bit longer--the fizzy quality combined with sweet amber and wood was very refreshing and fun. It makes Bois Oriental seem less serious and heavy than FdB, and probably much better for general daytime, office or warm weather wear. Longevity is extremely poor, and the fragrance wears very close to the skin. FdB is still my preferred fragrance of the Bois series. However, I can see that Bois Oriental has its place, and some may prefer it if the heavy violet from FdB is off-putting.

Profumum Fiore d'Ambra

Notes: amber gris, opium (from luckyscent)

On first spray, I smell a golden resinous amber, carmelized sugar, powder, citrus, and a spice blend, probably cinnamon and clove. After the fragrance dries, the spices come out more, and it is clear that Fiore d'Ambra is primarily an oriental. The spice mixture reminds me a little bit of Estee Lauder Youth Dew--a dark spice concoction in which no one ingredient dominates, and the combination blends synergistically to form a new, not-found-in-nature spice. The spices are dry and dusty, and catch in my throat a bit. The dryness is offset by the sweet amber base, and persistent but light powder.

Further into the development, the spices stay strong and dry, and the rest of the fragrance mellows. The powder softens and becomes a bit more floral. The amber base sweetens more, and seems more vanillic and less resinous, forming a cushy pillow for the spices. The amber was actually much more prominent when first applied, but in the middle stage seems to take more of a supporting role. This is opposite to most orientals I have tried which typically have an amber analogue in the base which comes out more toward the end of the fragrance development. Having said that, Fd'A still reminds me of Youth Dew, and perhaps even more of Youth Dew Amber Nude, especially at this point.

I keep catching whiffs of Fd'A during the drydown. In this stage, the fragrance has sweetened considerably, and has lost the harsh spice edge. In fact, the spices faded to the point that they smell almost creamy, or, perhaps there is a creamy sandalwood in the base. A touch of powder and a hint of non-descript floral also remain. At any rate, it has become what I expect from an oriental...a soft vanilla and light resinous amber base. At this late stage, it recalls Givenchy Organza Indecence, although I think OI has a more creamy and delicious drydown. Overall, I find Fd'A to be very wearable, and slightly nostalgic due to the obvious nod in Youth Dew's direction. It is also very warm and comforting, and is composed of excellent, high quality ingredients.

Fiore d'Ambra seems to be relatively short lived. It developed in about 2-3 hours and is now wearing close to the body. Sillage was not as strong as I would have expected, given its oriental heritage. Profumum is extremely expensive, so before purchase, I would recommend a comparison to YDAN, if possible. (YDAN is discontinued, but is available at some online retailers.)

Bond No.9 Chinatown

Notes: Peach blossoms, gardenia, tuberose, patchouli, cardamom (from Bond No.9)

On first application (from a dabber sample), I smell cherries, sugar, almond and powder. A sharp but clean patchouli lurks below the surface, and the composition as a whole is incredibly sweet. Very quickly, the juicyness of the cherry note fades as does the sugar, leaving behind faint tart cherry and sharp almond with sweet powder. The powder is extremely strong and at times smells like baby products. The patchouli is either synthetic or processed--it doesn't have any of the typical head shop "funk" that natural patchouli essential oil has. However, it does add a bit of grunge to the super-sweet top notes, so I think overall it helps balance the composition. This is clearly an oriental, but as to whether it is gourmand, it is difficult to say at this point. Certainly the cherry almond opening is slightly edible, but right now, Chinatown seems more like a floral oriental with a dose of cherry Lifesaver candy.

I was hoping that Chinatown would morph a little as the top notes burn off, but so far the middle part of the development is linearly following what was present earlier. However, it is far more subdued. The powder has reduced in strength, but is still the most prominent note, and the sweetness is tempered by the astringent patchouli base note. The cherry and almond seem to be hanging in somewhat. I think that the supporting notes are the only things that make the powder seem more grown-up.

The drydown is still rather powdery, and has no traces of cherry or almond. An artificial floral has emerged...the notes say tuberose, but to me it smells more like Ylang Ylang as it has qualities of rubbery bubblegum and a vague furniture polish vibe. The patchouli is soft and fuzzy in the background, and is really not bad at this point. Although development has been fairly linear, it has also gone rather quickly--to complete drydown in only a couple hours. The fragrance is very faint now, much more subdued but not quite a skin scent.

I am disappointed in the ultra-linear development and the lack of complexity in this Chinatown. It seems to have very high quality ingredients, however, nothing so far has made me feel the urge to wear it more, let alone buy a bottle for an exorbitant amount of money.

Givenchy Organza EDP

Notes: Honeysuckle, Rosewood, Gardenia, Ylang-Ylang, Peony, Cedar, Vanilla (from Sephora)

I have read that some people find Organza to be "gourmand", even though my memory of it is more as an oriental, and somewhat reminiscent of Chanel Coco. I used to wear Organza daily when it first came out. In a way, it was my replacement for Coco, which was my signature scent. I love Organza, but never really went head over heels for it. These days, compared to the other woody orientals on offer (Armani Mania, for example), I feel that Organza outdoes most of the newer fragrances in the same genre. It is interesting that I seem to appreciate it more today than I did when I wore it more frequently!

On first spray, Organza is floral and powdery, with a hint of peppery spice. There is no particular flower that comes forward for me, but the bouquet tends more toward the "white" side of floral, and has some kind of synergistic effect that recalls spicy carnation. As the top notes settle, I smell creamy wood and sweet vanilla, although the floral notes are really much louder than the base at this point. Regardless, the base seems to deepen the brightness of the floral notes--heady flower nectar meets soothing woody amber. This is one of those fragrances that smells different depending on what distance I take. If I sniff very close to my arm, the florals become intoxicating. If I sniff a bit further away, I smell more of the powder, vanilla and spice. Either way the fragrance is STRONG...not quite the powerhouse that Coco is, but very close.

Eventually the floral notes mellow, and the powder retains a sort of astringent, biting quality that gives the composition some sharpness. The vanilla comes out more at this stage and is soft and sweet. I hesitate to say it is an edible vanilla, but it seems to walk the line--probably a little more vanilla and the fragrance would fall onto the spiced cookie side of the fence. The creamy wood I smelled earlier is not so apparent, although my experience with some orientals is that the woods become so much part of the amber base that they almost can't be distinguished. I actually like when this happens, as I really don't enjoy cedar fragrances that smell like pencil shavings or a hamster cage. In Organza, the wood is smooth and subtle, and probably has some sandalwood sweetening the cedar. I also wonder if there is patchouli in the fragrance, even though it is not listed as one of the notes. Sometimes patchouli has a peppery quality to it that is almost-but-not-quite spice. I keep smelling this peppery note, but it really does not smell like pepper spice.

As I move around, I catch whiffs from a distance, and the vanilla is so lovely--in the drydown it is the central attraction but does not become syrupy or go toward vanilla extract. Since my skin really dries things out, it is possible this could go very sweet on some. As for me, the sweetness is muted, and the vanilla has a fluffy cloud-like quality. The woods continue to be creamy and also a bit sweet. This is where the family resemblance to Organza Indecence comes out, and I love this part of the fragrance development.

In the late drydown, the floral notes are mostly faded, leaving behind a sweet vanilla amber that is soft and a touch powdery. The development went faster than I expected--about 2 hours to get to the base notes, and 6 hours later, the fragrance is mostly a skin scent. I think this is what Estee Lauder Amber Ylang Ylang really wants to be--a soft floral over sweet vanilla amber. To me, Organza does this far more successfully, although the top notes are rather penetrating at first. It is also at this late stage that I can say the vanilla becomes slightly more edible and custard-like, but still keeps arms length from being foody because of the light powder.

Malle Musc Ravageur and Renee Musk Comparison

Left hand: Frederick Malle Musc Ravageur (Oil)
Right hand: Renee Musk

Musc Ravageur--It has been a really long time since I have smelled MR, and only now have I had access to the fragrance again. For some reason, I thought MR was closer to MKK, but now it doesn't seem that way. At the start, I smell sweet musk and spices. The musk is like other sweet synthetic musks I have smelled, and I actually don't think it is super special. What is more special is what is with the musk, in this case, I smell cinnamon, clove, and maybe some nutmeg. It is the pumpkin-pie 1-2-3 punch, trio of spices. I suppose if MR had a little bit of fruityness, it really could be a pumpkin pie fragrance rather than a musk, but I digress. It is either fading fast, or I am getting nose fatigue. I don't detect much progression--it is pretty much staying in the synthetic musk with spices space, although the edgyness of the spices is wearing off a bit, making it a bit smoother and very warm.

Renee Musk--For some reason I remembered that this one started with a sort of pee note, and thought it might be civet. Even in Scent Bar last week, I smelled the pee note briefly when the fragrance was first sprayed on the strip. Wearing it today, what is more apparent is the poop note (aka manure), as this so-called musk is actually very leathery. It has a castoreum-like scent which includes manure, leather, bandaid/antiseptic, etc. The musk is actually very subtle, and seems to be more of a carrier for the leather. This one is also developing very quickly. The castoreum is having its typical progression away from the horse stable and more toward the leather horse saddle. The musk is nearly undetectable at this point.

I must be very honest--after trying some synthetic musk notes in the note identification project, it is clear to me that the quality and concentration of the particular musk aromachemical is of paramount importance. The synthetic musks are mostly ho-hum, with hardly any depth or breadth, so I think they 1) rely heavily on other ingredients to make them shine and/or 2) end up being used as a base because they aid in marrying notes rather than being the star attraction.

As a result, my impressions of FMMR and RM are really not so good, because I think the musks are not so good. They lack the complexity and longevity needed to be the central note in a fragrance. And the other notes which are supposedly supporting the musks are becoming insipid--it is as though they have no base notes. On final analysis, I also have to disagree with statements that FMMR and RM are the same. They do smell *similar* when first applied, but they diverge rapidly.

If I had to pick between the two, it would be Musc Ravageur, because Renee Musk is really more of a leather scent, and I think it is better compared with other leathers rather than other musks. As a former Coty Wild Musk girl, neither of these satisfy me.

Coty Wild Musk and Marc Jacobs Amber Splash Comparison

On the right arm: Coty Wild Musk Oil
On the left arm: Marc Jacobs Amber Splash EDT

On first application:

They both had very similar sweet ambery vanilla top notes, with the CWM being slightly more sweet but with a penetrating chemical or "hairspray" smell peeking through. I noticed this quality in excess when I sprayed the CWM EDT, and have been wondering if the oil was any different. Turns out--no, it is not, however, at the start, this note is greatly diminished as compared to the CWM spray.

The MJA was a tiny bit more dry, and for lack of a better way to say it, sort of baseless. It definitely didn't have the same chemical undertones as the CWM, but likewise did not seem to have anything anchoring it either.

Development:

Both scents developed very quickly, but the MJA lost its top notes a bit faster than the CWM oil. However, as the two developed, that chemical scent from the CWM became more apparent. By this time, I was wondering if this the the Musk part of the CWM. Further, I was wondering if perhaps the CWM I wore as a young adult had the dreaded NITRILE musks. If so, it would make sense that the newer one smells different to me. Also, since both the CWM spray and the oil have it, clearly it was an intentional part of the composition. The MJA started to literally disappear--it either burns through the entire composition very quickly, or the base notes are almost non-existant.

Complete dry down:

Now, almost 9 hours later, I can't really smell anything from the MJA arm. On the CWM arm, there is very little sweetness left, but the chemical musk smell is still present, though not very strong anymore. On the whole, the CWM oil also seemed to last longer than the CWM edt, based on a previous wearing of the spray.

Prices:

The MJA, is $65 retail for 10 ounces--which makes it $6.50 per ounce (could be less if found at a discounter). Due to its short longevity, it would need to be refreshed about every 4 hours, probably 1-2 sprays per wrist at least.

The CWM oil I saw for varying prices, but typically is around $15 ($11 plus shipping) for 0.5 ounce. So, $30 per ounce, but only a dab is needed and it lasts all day.

The CWM edt was around $10 at Target for 1.5 oz., so $6.67 per ounce (surprise--it is MORE than MJA). Longevity as I remember from my last wearing was more along the lines of MJA.

I think if you are a CWM lover, the MJA is actually not a bad deal, and has some of the same sweet character as CWM. However it does not have the oily chemical musk base, and fades to nearly nothing. The fading could be desirable for people who like to switch fragrances from morning to evening. Also, the low concentration of the MJA makes it a refreshing splash-type application.

Coty Wild Musk and Marc Jacobs Amber Splash Comparison

On the right arm: Coty Wild Musk Oil
On the left arm: Marc Jacobs Amber Splash EDT

On first application:

They both had very similar sweet ambery vanilla top notes, with the CWM being slightly more sweet but with a penetrating chemical or "hairspray" smell peeking through. I noticed this quality in excess when I sprayed the CWM EDT, and have been wondering if the oil was any different. Turns out--no, it is not, however, at the start, this note is greatly diminished as compared to the CWM spray.

The MJA was a tiny bit more dry, and for lack of a better way to say it, sort of baseless. It definitely didn't have the same chemical undertones as the CWM, but likewise did not seem to have anything anchoring it either.

Development:

Both scents developed very quickly, but the MJA lost its top notes a bit faster than the CWM oil. However, as the two developed, that chemical scent from the CWM became more apparent. By this time, I was wondering if this the the Musk part of the CWM. Further, I was wondering if perhaps the CWM I wore as a young adult had the dreaded NITRILE musks. If so, it would make sense that the newer one smells different to me. Also, since both the CWM spray and the oil have it, clearly it was an intentional part of the composition. The MJA started to literally disappear--it either burns through the entire composition very quickly, or the base notes are almost non-existant.

Complete dry down:

Now, almost 9 hours later, I can't really smell anything from the MJA arm. On the CWM arm, there is very little sweetness left, but the chemical musk smell is still present, though not very strong anymore. On the whole, the CWM oil also seemed to last longer than the CWM edt, based on a previous wearing of the spray.

Prices:

The MJA, is $65 retail for 10 ounces--which makes it $6.50 per ounce (could be less if found at a discounter). Due to its short longevity, it would need to be refreshed about every 4 hours, probably 1-2 sprays per wrist at least.

The CWM oil I saw for varying prices, but typically is around $15 ($11 plus shipping) for 0.5 ounce. So, $30 per ounce, but only a dab is needed and it lasts all day.

The CWM edt was around $10 at Target for 1.5 oz., so $6.67 per ounce (surprise--it is MORE than MJA). Longevity as I remember from my last wearing was more along the lines of MJA.

I think if you are a CWM lover, the MJA is actually not a bad deal, and has some of the same sweet character as CWM. However it does not have the oily chemical musk base, and fades to nearly nothing. The fading could be desirable for people who like to switch fragrances from morning to evening. Also, the low concentration of the MJA makes it a refreshing splash-type application.

I have been trying to understand Coromandel for a while now. I first tried it from a small 1ml dabber sample. At the time, my initial impressions were the same as much of the Chanel Exclusifs line--high quality ingredients, seems like a solid composition worthy of the Chanel name, etc., etc. Of the ones I tried, Coromandel was toward the top, but not quite good enough for me to want to explore it with any particular zeal. I shelved it for another time...a time when I would have a spray decant and a larger amount I could wear several times. Finally, I rekindled this back-burner fragrance.

Coromandel starts off very spicy and earthy. It supposedly contains patchouli, however, it is definitely not a "head shop" type of patchouli. In fact, it seems almost not patchouli at all except for the quirky aromatic plant root smell which is one of patchouli's strong characteristics. The spice is a blend, probably of pepper, cinnamon and clove. Like other fragrances that combine patchouli and spice, the mixture is very synergistic, making the patch seem less funky and the spices less edible. Below the surface is an overripe fruit and boozy floral accord, but in the beginning, it is not very apparent. It gives the dry patchouli and spice a bit of needed wetness and some sweetness. The fragrance develops much more slowly than the other Exclusifs I have tried (Eau de Cologne, 31 Rue Cambon, 28 La Pausa and Bel Respiro), and it is stronger, more like a cross between EDT and EDP.

As the top notes settle, the fruit and floral notes becomes more prominent. I think Coromandel is classified as an oriental, and so far it fits this category. The fruit and floral accord reminds me of a similar accord in Shiseido Feminite du Bois. The honey and woody notes of FdB are lacking in Corormandel, but the raisiny tart and sweet "desert wine" is there. Actually, this accord seems to be exactly the same as the overripe fruit and floral I smell in 31 Rue Cambon. It is as if the perfumer took this one central accord, "florified" it for 31RC and "spicified" it for Coromandel. Given that something in 31RC turned really sour on my skin in the drydown, I am very happy to have this yummy accord in a different composition that works much better on my skin.

In the middle part of the development, Coromandel still has the spice and patchouli. At this stage, the fragrance really smells a lot like dirt to me. The dirt is so strong, it eclipses most everything else. When I try to pick out the other notes, I still smell the spices pretty strongly, but the fermented fruit accord is quite a bit more subdued. Also at this stage, a powdery floral note comes out, and to my nose, this is the only truly feminine part of the development. The dirt is rather strong, though, and on me this stage lasts a pretty long time (at least an hour, probably more like two). It could be that a resin is responsible for this dirt scent, or perhaps a combination of resin with the patchouli. Some fragrances that have a lot of resins in the base tend to have a strange, almost BO scent to them. Combined with patchouli, I can certainly imagine a weird mix of salty, BO-ish resin and aromatic plant roots translating into the smell of dirt. I suppose this could be a turnoff for some, but I find it to be fascinating.

In the late stages, Coromandel takes a twist, and seems to turn from an oriental to a fougere (free of oakmoss, of course). I smell dry spices, some powder, light incense (probably also from the resin), some herbs, and a very nice amber musk. In fact, in the drydown, Coromandel smells incredibly close to the drydown of Divine l'Homme Sage, but a bit less dry and with some floral lingering from the middle notes. Well, I love Dl'HS, so I am really enamored of the Coromandel drydown also. And, I must say that the spices were extremely well behaved throughout--bright and sharp, but not taking over the whole composition. Longevity has been great--I can still smell it 12 hours later.

I believe Coromandel is classified as a women's fragrance, but I have no doubt that a man could wear this one. The middle stage with juicy fermented fruit and a bit of floral powder may be the only deterrents. I don't care much for gender labels, but if I compare this to other female fragrances from Chanel, it seems really different--much more mutable, dependent upon mood, time of day, and what stage of development the fragrance has reached. It certainly carries the legacy of Coco with the boozy floral note, but there is nothing else in Chanel's line that comes close to Coromandel. I certainly hope this is a sign of things to come.

This review is for Coco EDP

Coco has been a long time favorite of mine. It was released in the mid-80s, and I wore it in the early-to-mid 90s. At the time, my only other "signature" scent had been Coty's Wild Musk. I really wanted something more refined and mature with an oriental vibe--amber, musk and spice. I wasn't really looking for anything with strong floral notes, but Coco won me over with husky, boozy, spicy florals and an amazing amber drydown.

On first application, I smell aldehydes, rose, carnation and powder. The aldehydes are mild, and have the effect of brightening the composition. These are not the same soapy aldehydes that are in No. 5, rather, they are more fruity and citrus-like. The rose is dry and boozy at the same time. It is like a rose bouquet--some roses smell dusty, but sweet and powdery. Others smell like a fine rose liquor, complete with raisiny, spicy, sweet and tart qualities. The carnation is fresh and spicy, like a mixture of garden pinks which smell like cloves, and florists' carnations which have a sort of frosted rose petal effect.

As the aldehydes burn off, the rose and carnation come forward even more, and the sweet base of amber and vanilla start to deepen the impression of these two floral notes. The rose and carnation seem dark and mysterious. The boozy, preserved fruit quality of the rose is very penetrating, and taking deep inhalations, it feels like it goes straight into my heart. My experience with combining resins and rose is that the rose truly sings, and the combination of resinous base notes with the rose notes in Coco is no exception. The amber and resin base is a beautiful cushion which perfectly supports the rose. As the rose begins to fade, the sweet base seamlessly absorbs the rose and becomes more prominent. It is amazing that the spicy carnation keeps going strong through this phase, and is instrumental in the transition from top to middle to base.

The powder comes out again in the drydown, along with the spicy carnation, the dried fruit aspect of the rose, amber and resins. The vanilla and tonka are not dominant, but typically notes like this are very important in amber, and the amber accord is what I smell more than anything. I used to think that Coco had musk in the drydown, but I don't have that impression today. The overall effect in the drydown is floral spice with sweet, powder and delicately resinous amber. I find Coco to be gorgeous at every stage--even the drydown is amazing in its beauty. What a masterful use of natural and artificial rose notes by the perfumer--it gives such a vibrant "better than the real thing" quality from start to finish. It is as if the volume and saturation of a damask rose are turned up to the maximum. I love the intensity.

The EDP is a very long wearing, slowly developing fragrance. Sillage is enormous, and longevity is amazing--I have smelled Coco 10-12 hours after applying, and it is still more than a skin scent by that time. I have worn this fragrance in almost every form it takes: Parfum, EDP, EDT, powder, lotion and bath products. I think the EDP is one of the best, and it is also best on skin rather than paper or cloth. I didn't realize what a ground-breaking fragrance this was at the time I wore it regularly. It does seem a little bit dated (think big hair, big shoulder pads, big fragrance), and it shares some similarity with Estee Lauder Knowing (another big rose). However, it was Coco's spicy and boozy rose over a cloud of amber that stole my heart.

Notes: (from Bois de Jasmin) cedarwood, orange blossom, rose, violet, honey, plum, beeswax, clove, cardamom, cinnamon

I used to own Feminite du Bois EDP, the original release by Shiseido. It is actually a Serge Lutens/Christopher Sheldrake creation, and originally came in a gorgeous dusky purple bottle with a curvy smooth shape that reminds me of a Brancusi sculpture. I have read several conflicting reports that it has been discontinued, or has limited distribution in countries other than the US, or some such. I also read a Serge Lutens news story or interview in which SL explicitly stated FdB would be re-released through the SL export line (can't remember where I saw it, and now I can't find it). I hope this is the truth, and I hope they don't mess with the formula or strength!

I never knew about Lutens before I started exploring perfumes in depth here on BN and other sites. I bought FdB simply because I loved it, and nothing else I was testing at the time came close to the complexity, modernity and originality of FdB. I later found out that SL sketched out some other fragrances inspired by FdB, and these are currently in the non-export line. Of the ones I tried, the following come closest to FdB, especially in the drydown: Bois de Violette, Bois et Fruits, Bois et Musc. Bois Oriental and Un Bois Vanille are supposedly also based on the FdB structure, but to me, these did not seem as similar in tone. Another Sheldrake creation which has the FdB drydown is Christian Dior Dolce Vita.

Upon first application, FdB is immediately spicy, penetrating, sharp and woody. I can smell cinnamon and clove, cedar, and something that makes the wood seem sweet and creamy--could be the beeswax mentioned in the notes. I do smell something that seems a bit like the deeply resinous and vaguely honey-like beeswax I have smelled in pure beeswax candles. To my nose, the cedar is very well done, not like pencil shavings or hamster cage litter. I have read that FdB uses Iso E Super, so this could be the reason that the cedar note has the smooth quality it does. Also, in the past, I remember FdB going through a sweaty cumin stage between the top and middle notes, but I am not smelling that today.

As it dries, the violet and fruits come out. The violet is slightly floral, not overly sweet, and is definitely not the candied violet in Bois de Violette. The fruit seems dried, like prunes or raisins. I am sure listing "prune" in the notes is not very glamorous, but the scent of prune-plums is one of my all time favorites, and I always loved opening a can of prune-plums in syrup so I could get the first whiffs. So, plum it is, but definitely not like the plums you get from the produce section of the grocery store. The beeswax is also a bit more prominent now. It seems to be a wonderful alternative to using resins or vanilla to pull things together.

FdB develops fairly quickly, and the drydown stage is gorgeous--mild cedar and spice mixture, and the lingering sweetness of beeswax. I would say cinnamon is the dominant spice note, and it gives the drydown some bite. However, the cardamom and clove soften the edges a little bit, fade into the background, and seem to almost become part of the wood more than the spice mixture. I don't know why I never realized before that the beeswax was the resinous unifier in this fragrance. The FdB base is so different than the typical amber oriental base of labdanum, vanilla and benzoin (or other resins). Upon further reflection, if the amber base were broken into resinous, woody and balsamic parts, I think all of these roles are filled by the beeswax, cedar and cardamom. Perhaps this is what Luca Turin meant when he referred to this base as an alternative oriental.

One fragrance map I have seen places FdB in the fruity chypre family. I suppose if the definition of an oriental is something with an amber accord in the base, then this might not be the right category for FdB. However, it has the depth and complexity of an oriental, and in some ways also has the heavyness. I think it was ahead of its time, at least for US customers. And I can see why it might not do very well here--it is definitely not a superficial fragrance, and some may find it very challenging. Sillage and longevity are moderate, but since I love the creamy, woody, spicy drydown, I don't mind getting there quickly!

Notes: (from Givenchy)
Top: Cinnamon, Tangerine
Heart: Jacaranda Wood, Plum
Base: Amber, Patchouli

I bought Organza Indecence when it first came out, so my bottle is the feminine one with the open, flowing gown, and the fragrance is EDP strength. At the time, I was already a lover of the Original Organza, and OI was having a special on gift sets, so I also got a cute mini, some body lotion and shower gel. It appears they no longer make the body products, and I am not sure if the fragrance is the same juice, but I read on the Givenchy site that the re-release is also an EDP. The new bottle is blocky, a tall rectangle like the Serge Lutens export line.

I am not generally very keen on fragrances that emphasize spices (eg, Serge Lutens Russe or Arabie), but for some reason, I never really noticed the cinnamon in OI. Spraying it now, I do smell the cinnamon more (since I am paying attention, probably), but it is not an edible cinnamon or part of a spice melange. Rather, it blends initially with the other top and mid notes to give a sort of tart fruit and light wood effect. In some ways it reminds me of a holiday potpourri, but it definitely does not have a cheap candle quality. Still, the combination of citrus, spice and wood is very reminiscent of wintertime holidays. In fact, OI is a great cool weather scent either by association, or by the depth and relative heaviness of the composition.

As the top notes burn off, I notice the patchouli much more. Sandalwood is not mentioned in the notes, but I smell something that could pass for sandalwood--it is a dusty, sweet wood smell with no cedar notes that I can detect. It compliments the cinnamon and patchouli very nicely--the patchouli becomes more rounded and the cinnamon helps the fragrance retain just enough sharpness to keep it from becoming fuzzy. Another note which is not listed is Vanilla, but I am sure it is in there (it could be in the amber accord), pulling the whole composition together. One of the mid-notes that becomes more apparent is a sort of preserved fruit note--either dried fruits or fruits steeped in brandy.

Further into the development, the cinnamon is still present, the sandalwood becomes more strong and the fruits fade. The sandalwood is a bit more powdery at this stage. Sometimes it seems like the cinnamon comes out more, but then a later sniff smells more like sandalwood. The patchouli is also still there, but quiet and earthy. Smelling the fragrance close to my skin, I can smell distinct notes, Smelling it further away, it is a gorgeous blend. The combination is creamy, not what one would expect given the notes. At the same time it still has a pleasant "bite", like a kind of tree wood that does not exist in nature.

I think the deep drydown is what most people associate with this fragrance, and it is well worth the wait. The creamyness amplifies as the sharper top and mid notes soften. The result is a beautiful creamy vanilla sandalwood with light cinnamon spice. It is still not edible-smelling, but it is incredibly voluptuous without being pretentious, and gracefully soft without being girly. It is really a difficult scent to describe--I find my self resorting back to the individual notes, but again, their combination is what makes this one special.

Overall, the fragrance is complex and deep, but is not extreme in its development. In fact, I would say it is mostly linear except that different stages highlight different parts of the scent quite well. I always used to think it had very strong sillage, but now it seems more moderate. Compared to a fragrance like Mugler's Angel, OI is mild mannered and genteel. It is not light by any means, but not a shrinking violet, either. Longevity is excellent--after 10 hours I can still smell it. It is light at this point, but not so light to be a skin scent.

As I write this, I am struck by the similarity of OI to Shiseido Feminite du Bois. Both are orientals built primarily on a woody base with spices and dried fruits. Where FdB focuses on cedar and cumin, OI highlights sandalwood and cinnamon. In either case, there is a comforting quality that makes me want to be enveloped in the scent. With OI, the fragrance hints at being edible without turning into candy or cake. I love the contrast of sharp and soft, sweet and dry or dusty. I love how the all the ingredients work together so that the cinnamon becomes part of the fragrance composition rather than taking over (a very common problem with some spices). Mostly, though, I love the blend that is more than the sum of its parts.

l'Eau d'Hiver--hmmm...paint...a mixture of artists' paint and the kind I have used to paint interior walls. So let me break it down a little. Some kind of aromatic wood scent, vanilla, some kind of bitter nut, maybe almond, pecan or walnut. There must also be something like linseed oil and a touch of turpentine. Ed'H is fairly dry and nutty, but some very faint sweetness and powder is developing as it dries.

Turin claimed this fragrance has an "almond water" quality. I can understand this interpretation--the nuttyness is definitely prominent, and it is amazing what other notes may be evoked by a simple almond. I read somewhere that some nuts contain cyanide. It is definitely of the poisonous family of cyanide chemicals, but in a very small amount. I wonder if that is what gives some nuts their astringent, bitter quality. This is the sensation I get when I smell Ed'H. I have just shelled an almond or a walnut, and the natural oils are newly released onto my hands and the meat of the nut. Then, when I taste it, it is sweet, bitter, dry and woody. That is what I smell in Ed'H.

This is a fascinating fragrance. I wonder if people really wear this as it seems more like a scent experience rather than a perfume. About an hour after application, it is very light, verging on a skin scent. It still smells nutty and dry with a hint of linseed oil, but it also has taken on a bit more of the powder I noticed earlier. I definitely want to smell this again, although I am disappointed by its longevity.

Datura Noir--Cherry, almond, vanilla, sweet latex rubber, bubblegum, overall very sweet. The almonds are beautifully sharp with seemingly contradictory sweet and bitter components. In the early stage, it actually reminds me quite a bit of Dior Hypnotic Poison, except that the latex note is much less prominent in DN. I am having a hard time believing this is a SL scent as it seems so light and joyful, if you can categorize an oriental in that way. It is definitely sugary and playful, not heavy like most of the other scents I have tried from this house.

After the top notes have burned off a little bit, I smell what seems to be a synthetic tropical floral note. It is not unpleasant at all, but a bit unexpected. It might be ylang ylang--it is very heady and it has a rounded bubblegum quality to it. The whole composition is rather candy-like, as if the tropical floral is sugar-coated in some way. About an hour in, the frag has remained fairly linear, with a sort of "thinning" or fading of the once bold and colorful candied flower. The sweetness is also fading, leaving a tart and sour note (like Sweet-Tart candy) which I have smelled many times in mainstream fruity florals. Also the ylang ylang is taking on its typical powder edge which is dry and indolic. Overall, I think Hypnotic Poison is a better composed fragrance, if the latex note isn't too off putting. However, the Datura Noir is worth a try for anybody who is interested in the light gourmand oriental genre.

The middle part of the development was best, right after the tangy top notes burned away. On me it was a dry, dry woody scent with some light powder, some earthyness (vetiver-like) and probably the cumin making it seem a bit "off", in a good way. If the scent smelled like this the whole time, I would probably buy a bottle.

Unfortunately, the good part goes away after a couple of hours, and the remaining notes are not of interest. A good musk, but not enough of it. And that nasty cinnamon candle wax note. The drydown reminds me of Cuir de Lancome but with an inferior musk.

It is a bit powdery, but that is not the sole attraction. To my nose, it is a woody fougere, and the sweetness from the powder balances it a little. However, on my skin, things really dry out, so I can imagine that this powder can take over on some people. On me, the sweetness does not last long at all, so the powder turns very dry and green (ie chypre).

Maybe the twist in this frag is that it has both fougere and chypre things going on. It is vaguely ammoniac to my nose (maybe that is the bitterness mentioned above). Whatever it is that smells like ammonia to me is in quite a few fougeres. I think it is a lavender note, one of the more bitter herbal ones, and maybe synthetic. That part is not pleasant.

To sum up, it is dry on me, not cloying in the least. It is not feminine, either. It reminds me of Caron Pour un Homme with oakmoss. This is my second time sampling, and my second impression is definitely not as good as the first!

On first application, L'HS has a distinct licorice candy scent, backed up by an herbal blend and a sweet amber musk. The licorice is not cloying to me--it is a grownup scent which reminds me of those little italian licorice pastilles which have no sugar added. The only sweetness is what comes from the licorice root itself, and the flavor mostly comes from anise. This stage does not last long, but gradually gives way to the herbs and amber/musk. Also, a bit of fern (or what I would call the "fougere" note) peeks out, but is not very strong at this point.

The herbal stage lasts a bit longer. So far I do not smell any resemblance to Le Nez Let me Play the Lion (a comparison that was made by another BNer). However, I agree that there is a sort of cloud-like quality--individual herbs are difficult to identify in this blend. I don't smell sage at all, to be honest. Sage is bitter and medicinal, and L'HS never loses its gentle sweetness on me (which is very surprising). I am wondering if it is artemesia rather than salvia--we did have this discussion regarding Let Me Play the Lion. Artemesia is not really a sage, but one type of artemesia has a common name of sagebrush. Its aroma (while the leaves are still alive) can tend toward a licorice or sweet herbal, slightly woody smell. It still reminds me of a high quality version of Bulgari Eau Parfumee Au The Rouge.

The drydown is a sweet amber/musk with a touch of fern ("fougere"). This same base is used in other fragrances, so it is not all that unusual. However, it is very pleasant. I guess the question is--is it worth the money? Are the unique top and mid notes enough to justify a bottle? I think you could do worse. It is a very pleasant scent from top to bottom, no matter how you look at it. And, the ingredients seem to be of high quality, so you don't end up with a cheap, grating musk or other off notes.

Longevity seems good, at least for the base notes. The top was gone within the first hour, and the middle was gone within the first 2-3. I can still smell the base without putting my arm to my nose, and it has been around 7 hours since I applied it.

It is supposed to be a "contemporary fougere," but to be honest, I am not sure I get that from Covet. I do not smell any geranium nor anything herbal or fern-like. I do not even get the chocolate. What I smell is a bright green mixed citrus over a sweet musk base, all extremely synthetic. In fact, the middle part of the development is almost like sweet latex rubber to my nose. I have smelled the same notes in Burberry Brit and JPG Gaultier^2. I own a full bottle, so I liked it enough to take the plunge. However, I really don't understand the fourgere categorization on this one. On the plus side, the longevity is amazing (at least 12 hours).

I wrote before that this is really not so special, and that EL Bronze Goddess covers this genre nicely for a fair price. However, after wearing SJP Covet and Realities Sweet Desire fairly recently (two very common frags, not noted for the quality of their ingredients), I must raise my opinion of Bahiana. I still think Bahiana is not a stellar fragrance, but it is a high quality as far as I can tell. It is a nice citrus/tropical floral with wood notes in the base. I could put it in the same family as all the light woody scents I have tried in the last couple of months (EL Sensuous, EL Bronze Goddess Kenzo Amour, Kenzo Peace, Lancome Magnifique, etc.). Bahiana is worthy of this category, but maybe not better. Still, if you do not want to smell like all the other Bronze Goddesses and have the budget, Bahiana could be a good choice.

Jean Despres Bal a Versailles and Miller Harris L'Air de Rien Comparison

Left arm: Jean Desprez Bal a Versailles EDC
Right arm: Miller Harris L'Air de Rien EDP

An article I read recently compared BaV concentrations in both parfum and EDT with L'AdR. L'AdR comes only in EDP, but I know from past experience that it is short lived, and not entirely incomparable to an EDT or EDC.

BaV starts with a blast of civet and very soapy aldehydes (much like the scent of Ivory soap). It has a slight sourness that I sometimes smell in these types of aldehydes, but it is not unpleasant on my skin. The civet doesn't last long, but the soapyness continues through the mid development. Now (about an hour later), I still smell the soap, but also powder, leather, and a bit of another animalic note which reminds me of the animal-cage smell in Dzing! (the note is castoreum). The article said "bar of soap in a horse stable". I would have to agree with this sentiment!

L'AdR starts much sweeter with a slightly dirty amber accord. No civet, but the "dirty" smell is a similar leather and horse barn smell (castoreum). There is no soapyness or sourness, but there is a bit of powder at this stage. It is also retaining its sweetness pretty well, something that is a challenge with my skin. Incidentally, the BaV is quite dry in comparison, at least for me.

I completely understand how a comparison can be made between these two, but I see it mostly in the middle and early part of the drydown. I have a slight preference for the Miller Harris since it forgoes the "dated" aldehydic notes and stays sweet on my skin. However, the BaV is also a very interesting fragrance, and I can imagine exploring its different concentrations.

Jean Despres Bal a Versailles and Miller Harris L'Air de Rien Comparison

Left arm: Jean Desprez Bal a Versailles EDC
Right arm: Miller Harris L'Air de Rien EDP

An article I read recently compared BaV concentrations in both parfum and EDT with L'AdR. L'AdR comes only in EDP, but I know from past experience that it is short lived, and not entirely incomparable to an EDT or EDC.

BaV starts with a blast of civet and very soapy aldehydes (much like the scent of Ivory soap). It has a slight sourness that I sometimes smell in these types of aldehydes, but it is not unpleasant on my skin. The civet doesn't last long, but the soapyness continues through the mid development. Now (about an hour later), I still smell the soap, but also powder, leather, and a bit of another animalic note which reminds me of the animal-cage smell in Dzing! (the note is castoreum). The article said "bar of soap in a horse stable". I would have to agree with this sentiment!

L'AdR starts much sweeter with a slightly dirty amber accord. No civet, but the "dirty" smell is a similar leather and horse barn smell (castoreum). There is no soapyness or sourness, but there is a bit of powder at this stage. It is also retaining its sweetness pretty well, something that is a challenge with my skin. Incidentally, the BaV is quite dry in comparison, at least for me.

I completely understand how a comparison can be made between these two, but I see it mostly in the middle and early part of the drydown. I have a slight preference for the Miller Harris since it forgoes the "dated" aldehydic notes and stays sweet on my skin. However, the BaV is also a very interesting fragrance, and I can imagine exploring its different concentrations.

Flower by Kenzo EDP and Parfum comparison

Left arm: Kenzo Flower EDP
Right arm: Kenzo Flower Parfum

Not sure if this was mentioned in previous reviews, but these seem to be 2 different fragrances, irrelevant of concentration.

On first spray, the EDP is a bit like play-do or latex rubber. It is not as "rubbery" as the latex note I get in Sarah Jessica Parker Covet or most of the Gaultiers, and it has quite a bit a fruit up front, sort of a peach-orange combination (nectarine?) along with a synthetic floral bouquet. Ok, ok, it is a fruity floral with some lactonic "milky" quality. Within 20-30 minutes, the sharpness of the fruit & flower softens to a bit of a soapy note, and is a little bit tart or sour. In fact, it is almost a plastic smell, or maybe a bit like old lipstick (sort of waxy). It reminds me of those dolls that have scented hair. Not bad, but if I had to base my decision to purchase on this one wearing, I would give it a pass.

The parfum initially has more emphasis on the latex note with less fruit, and is more powdery with what seems to be a light amber. I would not say it is significantly heavier or stronger than the EDP. Rather, it is more resinous and rich, maybe more of an evening scent. The florals are less bright in this one, probably tempered by the amber notes. Of the two scents, it has more of the same qualities of Kenzo Amour, which I love. Unlike Kenzo Amour, Kenzo Flower Parfum penetrates my senses gradually with softness. I find it more in the "Amour" family than the special edition Indian Holi (which basically smelled like Amour with red cinnamon candle wax). However, the amber notes are not stellar, and with the sourness of the fruit and floral wafting in an out, I am not sure this one is FBW either. Having said that, it is definitely the more enjoyable of the two!

Much later: Everything has dried down nicely...even the Kenzo Flower lost its dense waxyness to reveal a soft powdery floral underneath. Unfortunately I sensed hints of ammonia, darn it all, this aromachemical sensitivity!

On first spray, I smelled almost nothing, but within 10 minutes, the fragrance started developing--a pleasant soapy, clean, white musk skin scent with a tea note. From previous wearings, I couldn't remember if the tea stayed longer in this one (in The Rouge and The Vert, the tea seems to fade really quickly). I was happy that the tea note stuck around most of the day, and have been wondering now how much this might resemble some of the Osmanthus fragrances I have been trying recently. The Blanc does not have any of the peachyness I smell in osmanthus, but the tea note is reminiscent of leather (which I also smell in osmanthus). The "whiteness" of the rest of the composition has a bit of a floral feel to it (also similar to osmanthus). It had a faint cinnamon candle wax note in the late drydown which is a disappointment--that particular note is not friendly for me.

Up to now, I had never given 31 Rue Cambon a full wearing. Also, my first sample of this fragrance was a small dabber. Now I have a slightly larger atomizer sample/decant. I am starting to learn that the best way to sample is to start with an atomizer, even if it is a very small one. The dabber just did not give me a good idea of the development. Also at the time, I did not have any decanting supplies, so I was stuck with dabbing.

Anyway, I LOVED this scent when I sampled it with the dabber. But, it seemed really short lived (maybe an hour or two). So, with my spray sample, I did my usual trick of spraying at least 4 sprays on my forearms (so the scent will be trapped by my sleeves).

The first 2 out of 4 hours are magnificient--fermented fruit and dark florals. It is as if they took the boozy part of Coco, amped it up, and reduced the powder and aldehydes. I really don't get a chypre from this at all--it really seems like a fruit/floral to me, but not in the derogatory sense of the classification.

However, after those initial hours, the scent turned sour. My skin really sucks sweetness away, so it is possibly a skin chemistry issue. It had a sort of classic or old fashioned quality--not the modern drydown I was expecting. And nothing at all like the incredible drydown of Coco. It simply smelled sour, musty and "off". That was where it stayed for the rest of the drydown (and is still detectable now, after about 12 hours).

Needless to say, having a thorough test of a fragrance in several contexts is really important, especially if it is an expensive one! I am a bit disappointed--the opening is so amazing and enticing, and the drydown really detracts from the whole experience. Still, it is quite lovely, and I can see why so many people love it.

I do not understand why this got one star in the "Perfumes: The Guide". It reminds me of the soapyness I smell in Hermes Caleche and Eau d'Hermes. It is really in line with the traditional Hermes scents. It even starts with a fabulous blast of nutty, rooty orris. In fact, I wish this initial stage would last longer. After the rooty part faded, the fragrance was a bit more of a high-frequency white floral (freesia, maybe, I am not sure). Then, late in the drydown, it was light and soapy. This fragrance stayed light and refreshing all day, even though it has several seemingly different faces.

Notes from luckyscent are: vetiver, bergamot, neroli, white cedar

I sampled this briefly some time ago, so I knew it has longevity problems. To counteract, I applied 3 sprays on each forearm (to go under my sleeves). The Vetiver top note is very true to the source, and is exactly what I want to smell in a fragrance. Unfortunately, this stage lasts only about 10 minutes. I did not really smell any neroli, but I did smell a citrus accord, probably from the combination of bergamot and neroli. It blends quite well with the white cedar. Even though the Vetiver does not contribute much after the first 10 minutes, the later stages of development are also very pleasant. In fact, I think this is what I wanted Terre d'Hermes to be. But still, I want MORE Vetiver

Bottom line: This is such a refreshing, pleasing cologne-type scent, that I could see it might be FBW despite the longevity issues.

Wow, so earthy and dirty! I definitely smell vetiver right away in this one, but a very rooty vetiver, not the salty, nutty version from Comme des Garcons Vettiveru or the essential oils I tried. Basically, the first impression is the damp roots of grass when they still have dirt on them. As the scent develops (10-30 minutes), a more herbal note comes out and covers up the dirt note a bit. This stage lasts a fairly long time, and seems to switch between the herbal and rooty. The part that made this seem more like vetiver to me is fading, but a very faint saltyness remains. And now, a bit of the nuttyness I expected is coming out a bit, but only a whisper. About an hour in, I also am starting to smell some wood, probably cedar. More than an hour...drydown has lost the "wet-dirt" quality. It is dry, herbal, woody, and only a bit of dry dirt. Very nice! For me, this one is worn more for the drydown.

In other words, I found the first hour or so very challenging, but the drydown is absolutely amazing.

Guerlain Eau de Shalimar versus Shalimar Light

Left Arm: Guerlain Eau de Shalimar EDT (the newest formulation)
Right Arm: Guerlain Shalimar Light EDT (also labeled Eau Legere Parfumee)

I have seen all kinds of confusing information about how earlier releases of a light version of Shalimar (variously called Shalimar Light and Shalimar Eau Legere) are different than the newest "light" release called Eau de Shalimar. I already had a manufacturer's sample of EdS, so in a recent order, was able to score a manufacturer's sample of SL/SEL. To clear up any packaging confusion, here is what I have...the paper folder that holds the sample of Shalimar Light has a picture of a curvy Shalimar-shaped bottle with a blue cap and blue colored glass. The juice in the vial is light honey colored, not blue. The paper folder also has BOTH names--Shalimar Light and below it, the words Eau Legere Parfumee. So, I think it is safe to assume that this Shalimar Light was the most recent release BEFORE Eau de Shalimar. Shalimar Light is available at the online discounters. Eau de Shalimar was only at department stores the last time I checked (a few months ago).

The reason for the long introduction--many people say the older version is better than the newer one. One Guerlain fan here on BN remarked that there were actually THREE releases--another Shalimar Light in a clear bottle that came before the blue bottle version, and that this juice may be different also (this would have been the very first release). At any rate, this comparison is for the 2nd and 3rd releases only. And to be very brief--after a full wearing of both, I can't tell the difference between the two. I think they are the same formula with different packaging. If there are any differences, they are so subtle as to be undetectable on my skin. The only thing I can say about it is that MAYBE the older juice was a bit more harsh, and this would probably be due to the age of the juice and its storage conditions rather than any real differences. Another BNer said it very well--buy the Shalimar Light and save a few bucks (paraphrased). I would agree with this as long as I trusted the retailer who is selling the older, discounted version.

The fragrance itself is very pleasant. It starts with a sweet and sour lemon blast that reminds me of lemonade or lemon sorbet. This sweetened lemon stage tones down very quickly and is joined by a light vanilla. I wouldn't say it is an edible lemon-vanilla combination, but it is very welcoming, refreshing, and not overly sweet. I actually wish this stage lasted for much longer--if it did, I would probably want a full bottle. Sadly, it fades within an hour, and the result is a very dusty, dry vanilla with a hint of tart lemon for the rest of the drydown. There are some florals also, but I can't distinguish any particular floral note. The effect is sort of "perfumy" (I wish I knew what actually caused the "perfumy" note in fragrances). There is also a dry, almost baby-powder note, so it is possible that the powder is what gives it that "perfumy" edge. I hesitate to say it might be orris, because most orris I have smelled is a bit sweeter and more "rooty" to me. However, orris is a good candidate for the powder note. Longevity is actually quite good. I applied the equivalent of 3 good sprays to each arm, and after 12 hours, the soft vanilla base is still apparent on my skin. Sillage is moderate--I was able to smell it when working at my desk typing or writing.

The nod to Shalimar is obvious in the drydown, especially with the light powder and vanilla. I never noticed citrus in Shalimar, but certainly Jicky has beautiful citrus in the top notes, so I see a family resemblance with the use of lemon also. On my skin, though, Eau de Shalimar is significantly drier than Shalimar or Jicky, and I am not sure I would classify EdS as an oriental. Eau de Shalimar is really more like a traditional cologne than a light oriental. I think it would be great for warm weather or day wear. It is a very solid offering by Guerlain, but I am not terribly bowled over by it. Of course, it could easily be one of those that grows on me until one day I realize I really love it.

Vetiver Tonka---ouch, near asphyxiation! I thought all the Hermessences were faint and short lived, so I poured this one on, too. The beginning is really more of a burnt caramel, probably from the Tonka. The vetiver comes out a bit later, and unfortunately, has a sort of "fennel" quality to it. That is a very unattractive scent for my skin which tends to amplify this in some scents. Then, the real bomb hit with very heavy sour (probably citrus) and woody notes along with the vetiver. Plus some smoke. It was really harsh and slightly nauseating (gave me a terrible headache). In the late drydown, the citrus lingers and smells of bug spray. I can't say I would recommend this one. It really lacks the refinement of other vetiver scents I have tried.

I am not sure I smell any vetiver! Bois 1920 as a house has a tendency to be very light, and so I really poured on the sample. However, I think all the Bois 1920 fragrances must be sprayed to get the full effect. I can't say I really know what is going on with VA, it is THAT subtle. On the plus side, the sweet amber is a light one, and could be a great day-time scent.

No.5 EDT and No.5 Eau Premiere Comparison (see No.5 Eau Premiere for an extended review which includes more about EP)

Left arm: Chanel No.5 Eau Premiere
Right arm: Chanel No.5 EDT

I own No.5, and received a healthy sized sample of Eau Premiere from the SA at Macy's. My No.5 is relatively new, so I am sure it is the latest formulation.

Upon initial application, the main distinction seems to be a vast difference in the amount of aldehydes. The Eau Premiere does have a bit of waxyness (which I am sure is also from aldehydes), but it is not the extreme level that No.5 has. Also, since the aldehydic blast is less severe in EP, some fruit and floral notes are a bit more apparent.

About 10 minutes in...the aldehydes have mostly burned off in the No.5 and are now down to a more approachable level, and ironically is less waxy than EP. The peach and white floral are coming through, along with a hint of spicyness. I cannot detect any peach in the EP. Right now it smells like a rather straight white floral with a hint of spice, and the waxy aldehyde still present. It definitely smells more "clean and modern", but so far is not as interesting as No.5. I am wondering if this really is just a No.5 without the aldehydes--any real differences are incredibly subtle.

About 30 minutes in...the No.5 has settled into its typical peach, floral, spicy skin scent (beautiful, as always). The EP still is a bit waxy, but the spicyness is coming through more. I still do not smell any peach, but rather a rubbery synthetic note (latex-like), and some light powder.

It will be interesting to see how these two wear on through the day. I can see that I might want a FB of the Eau Premiere, especially if it has decent longevity. It is definitely very "wearable". I am just not sure it has the same classic beauty of the original No.5. And owning a bottle of No.5 means I may have less of a sense of urgency about owning the EP.

No.5 EDT and No.5 Eau Premiere Comparison

Left arm: Chanel No.5 Eau Premiere
Right arm: Chanel No.5 EDT

I own No.5, and received a healthy sized sample of Eau Premiere from the SA at Macy's. My No.5 is relatively new, so I am sure it is the latest formulation.

Upon initial application, the main distinction seems to be a vast difference in the amount of aldehydes. The Eau Premiere does have a bit of waxyness (which I am sure is also from aldehydes), but it is not the extreme level that No.5 has. Also, since the aldehydic blast is less severe in EP, some fruit and floral notes are a bit more apparent.

About 10 minutes in...the aldehydes have mostly burned off in the No.5 and are now down to a more approachable level, and ironically is less waxy than EP. The peach and white floral are coming through, along with a hint of spicyness. I cannot detect any peach in the EP. Right now it smells like a rather straight white floral with a hint of spice, and the waxy aldehyde still present. It definitely smells more "clean and modern", but so far is not as interesting as No.5. I am wondering if this really is just a No.5 without the aldehydes--any real differences are incredibly subtle.

About 30 minutes in...the No.5 has settled into its typical peach, floral, spicy skin scent (beautiful, as always). The EP still is a bit waxy, but the spicyness is coming through more. I still do not smell any peach, but rather a rubbery synthetic note (latex-like), and some light powder.

It will be interesting to see how these two wear on through the day. I can see that I might want a FB of the Eau Premiere, especially if it has decent longevity. It is definitely very "wearable". I am just not sure it has the same classic beauty of the original No.5. And owning a bottle of No.5 means I may have less of a sense of urgency about owning the EP.

I asked the SA what the strength of the EP is, and she said it is "its own strength", whatever that means. I suspect it is an EDT or somewhere between and EDT and EDP--I put 2 sprays of each fragrance on each arm, and the strength, development and sillage are slightly better in the EP (but not by much). If EP is an EDP, then that may justify the price. However, performance-wise, if it behaves like an EDT...well, maybe they are asking a bit too much, then.

Update from a later wearing of Eau Premiere:

Today is the first time I have given a full wearing to No5EP. On another thread, somebody commented that this is an EDP. I do not think that is true. The SA told me it was not EDP nor EDT. My experience last week in comparing it to No.5 EDT is that they lasted and projected about the same, with No5EP having a slight edge. I really think the EP is partway between an EDP and an EDT. I had to spray 2 sprays on each arm because I could barely smell it at first. Then, with the frag under my sleeves, it lasted maybe 4 hours before it turned into mostly a skin scent.

I agree with other assessments that it is like a softer No.5. It still has some aldehydes (waxy, soapy notes), but it really does not have the sparkle or the peachyness of No5. And the spicyness which is in both frags is left a bit bare in the EP without the peach note. It is definitely more modern, but it retains its classic quality--a huge plus, I think.

If I didn't have No.5 already, I would probably get this one. But since I have No.5, I am not sure I feel any need to add EP to my wardrobe right now. Besides, a 5 oz. bottle is really outrageous.

Hermessence Ambre Narguile and Ava Luxe Ambra Tibet Comparison

Left arm: Hermes Hermessence Ambre Narguile
Notes: benzoin, labdanum, musk, vanilla, caramel, honey, sugared tonka bean, grilled sesame seeds, cinnamon, rum, coumarine and white orchids (from NowSmellThis)

Right arm: Ava Luxe Ambra Tibet (thanks to Pebbles!!!!)
Notes: Tibetan amber, cardamon, Madagascar vanilla, ambergris, civet (from Ava Luxe web site)

Both started similarly--light spice, vanilla, a touch of leather and powder. The opening of each was really enjoyable, and different from most things out there. Unfortunately, neither stayed in this sweet spot.

As I have mentioned many times before, my skin dries scents out. Both of these are supposed to be very sweet, I am sure. Reviews of AN in the directory talk about its foody, sweet, sometimes cloying qualities. Well, on me, the sweet is gone, and all I have left now is tart, dry baby powder. The top notes were gone in a flash, and the middle was bypassed, going straight to the powder. This happened within 1 hour. I applied liberally since the Hermessences are known to have poor longevity, but it did not seem to matter. For most of the rest of the drydown, I have something that smells very similar to a baby's butt. I can see how this would work with the right skin chemistry--it reminds me of Bond Chinatown and Montale Sweet Oriental Dream. It may be worth looking into it if those other fragrances are appealing.

This is the first time I have tried the Ava Luxe, and I had no idea what to expect. I applied liberally with this one also, since it didn't seem very strong right out of the vial. The opening was beautiful, and I actually prefer it to the Hermes. It is a bit less "staunch" in its minimalism, and yet retains so much charm and perhaps some innocence (if a scent can have such a quality). AT has a bit of a modern leather note similar to the sharp leather found in Ambre Russe and some of the new Parfumerie General leather scents. That seems to be just the nudge needed in the top notes to give it a bit more balance than the Hermes. I sure wish this stage lasted longer, but given the affordable price of Ava Luxe frags, maybe needing to refresh a couple times a day is not all that bad. The dry down is very straightforward--mostly a simple vanilla skinscent. But I must say it is lovely, not pretentious, and not a caricature of vanilla (which is often the case with strong vanilla scents).

Neither of these really compare to my "go to" ambers for complexity or longevity. Of what I have tried in the Hermessence line, I must question the price, given the behavior of some of the compositions. I think it is normal to expect better performance out of a high end frag, and I just have not been getting it with Hermes. For the Ava Luxe, I am reminded of Comme des Garcons--very straightforward, affordable, modern, and most important--not FUSSY. This is a line I will enjoy exploring more!

Notes: patchouli, oak, vanilla, amber, white musk, cystus ladaniferus (from luckyscent)

On first application (from a dabber), the scent is strong, sharp and rooty--the typical "head shop" patchouli. Within a few minutes, the sharpness fades, and the sweet vanilla and amber peeks out a bit. This scent is developing very quickly, and is taking on a foody and slightly metallic quality. There must be some spices in this frag, even though they are not listed. However, I have never smelled oak as a note, but I can see the resemblance of this strange foody, chewy metallic scent to the smell of oak when it is being milled in the woodshop. Needless to say, the quick development means the "head shop" quality becomes much more subdued, and the woodyness of the oak (and probably the labdanum) blend with the patchouli to balance it. I smell what seems to be that sharp leather note from Ambre Russe and Bois 1920 Real Patchouli (and several Parfumery Generale scents), too, although it is not listed.

The development seems to have slowed a bit after the first few minutes, and PL is settling into what I hope will be an earthy patchouli amber--sweet, sour, bitter, woody and resinous. I am worried about the longevity given how quickly it has changed, but that remains to be determined in a longer wearing.

Bois des Iles EDC and Parfum Comparison

Left Arm: Chanel Bois des Iles Parfum
Right Arm: Chanel Bois des Iles EDT

I applied a good sized dab of the parfum, and two very wet sprays of the EDT in an effort to equalize the two somewhat. What I noticed immediately is that the EDT had much more prominent aldehydes in the top notes. The aldehydes also are in the parfum, but are either much less in concentration, or are eclipsed by the strength of the rest of the composition. In the EDT, the aldehydes are very similar to No.5, if not the same. I think I remember reading somewhere that somebody thought BdI EDT was like a combination of No.5 and Coco. I think I can understand this comparison--the No.5 aspect is form the aldehydes, and the Coco aspect is from the spicy undertones, barely perceptible at this stage. In comparison, the spices and woods are immediately present in the parfum, and the small amount of aldehydes gives it a touch of brightness.

I think I really doused myself on both arms. Either that, or the development is slow to unfold. It took quite a while for the aldehydes to burn off (about an hour). In the process, the EDT really blossomed. I smell very ripe peach, brandy, dark rose, clove, vanilla. When I don't try to discern the separate notes, I get the "gingerbread" effect that people talk about. To me it seems more like a rum spice cake, but I suppose that is what gingerbread is, in a way. The EDT is not as woody as the parfum, and it has a bit of that sourness that I noticed in 31 Rue Cambon. Some sweet powder is also starting to come out.

The parfum is almost knocking me out, and so I think future wearings may demand a smaller dab, lol. I actually can still smell some of the aldehydes after 1 hour. But, I also smell a luscious sandalwood, vanilla, clove, dark rose, and only the tiniest hint of brandy and fruit. It does not have the same kind of "fermented" smell that the EDT has, and it is not as sweet at this stage. I don't get the gingerbread association as much, either.

I would classify the parfum as a sultry chypre in the same vein as Shiseido Feminite du Bois. I suppose I would also classify the EDT in the chypre family--only it reminds me more of Dior Dolce Vita, which has family similarities to FdB, but is much lighter in every respect. I definitely also see the resemblance to Coco, now that both the EDT and parfum have dried a bit.

Now, about an hour and a half after application--the EDT is fading. It is wearing longevity-wise as 31 Rue Cambon does. And to be honest, the drydown also smells quite a bit like 31RC, only it is much less sour (a big plus for me). The parfum is still going strong, but is opening a bit more, and the dark floral aspect is more apparent. Still no gingerbread with the parfum, but it has a way to go. I think, though, the sandalwood and vanilla will play a larger part from start to finish in the parfum. In contrast, the EDT dries to fruit, floral and powder, with only a hint of wood.

I wonder which one Luca Turin reviewed in The Guide? I give the parfum 5 stars, but I am not sure I would give the same rating for the EDT. The EDT is almost a completely different fragrance from top to bottom--the aldehydes are challenging, and I am not sure they really "fit" the composition. I really love the soft drydown of the EDT, though....

I have been thinking for a long time that this is a very close scent to Estee Lauder Bronze Goddess / Azuree Soleil (which I wore yesterday). After several back to back wearings alternating the two, my conclusion today is that they indeed have a very similar basic quality--a light floral over soft woods in the base. They even both have coconut. The difference is in the small details of the development. Azuree Soleil is coconut in the top notes, and dries to the white floral over wood with a touch of vanilla coconut. Peace has the same indolic sweet rice as Kenzo Amour in the top, dries to white floral over wood with a touch of vanilla coconut. Of the two, I think BG/AS is drier, but not by much. MPG Balenciaga was also very similar to these two, but had citrus and coconut in the top notes. For the price, though, Estee Lauder is the one that can't be beat. Still, if I didn't already have Bronze Goddess, I might rather have Kenzo Peace.

I saw on the blog NowSmellThis that this frag has been revived. The description sounded really interesting, and notes from luckyscent are:

exotic woods, spice, raisin, vine flowers, pepper, candied orange, nut, hazelnut, prune, cocoa, coffee, leather, woods, white honey, vanilla

I must admit, the candy in the candied orange is definitely dominant upon first spray. My first thought was of those sweet and tangy "Lick 'm Aid" candy packets I used to buy as a kid. It had a white candy stick that you lick, then dip into the pouches of fruit flavored sugar (grape and cherry). It was a contrast of sweet and tart, and also had a strong fruity and vanilla combination. That is my initial impression of 1270, but it is barely dry on my wrist right now. Of the notes, I'm really only getting the candied orange, white honey and vanilla. Makes me want to lick myself, lol.

Top notes are fading a little, so the more muted sweet notes are starting to come out. I smell fermented fruit, sweet wine, and a bit of leather. I can barely smell the woods, but I do get the idea of the "aged in oak" quality that wine has. From this, the wood is present in a way, even if it is not a branch or a plank. The fermented quality is a bit sour, but I get the raisin or prune notes, although to my nose it still seems very "grape". The leather adds a bit of bitter and biting quality that stings my nose a little.

Well, it has been 45 minutes now, and although the initial "candy" blast is much subdued, 1270 still smells very tart and fruity. The sweetness is really not very present for me (which is often the case), and the spices are starting to come out a bit now. It is too bad that tart candy note persists, because I can smell something caramel-like below the surface, and it does not go very well with sour candy. The vanilla is getting nice and mellow, though, which is pleasant. Still, that "in your face" tartness is doing the fragrance no favors at this point.

At the 1 hour mark--I am sad to say that this fragrance seems really confused and/or confusing. It has this gorgeous caramel, wood and wine lurking below the surface, and a really dry, puckery, fruity candy on the top keeping it from coming out. It just seems wrong! It could be my skin knocks it out of balance--I am not getting a glass of fine cognac or wine. I guess I can understand why it received mixed reviews on luckyscent. Sort of disappointing

I do not understand why I do not get a similar experience as the other reviewers AT ALL when I wear 1270. Was there a reformulation at some point?

I am rather new to the Ava Luxe line. My sense that Ava Luxe as a house is rather non-fussy still holds with LTBL. It is a vanilla-amber-musk, with vanilla being the prominent note. However, when I compare LTBL to other vanilla fragrances (Lavanilla, Maison de Vanille), I must say that LTBL does not knock me over (in other words, asphyxiate me) with the vanilla. It is not a complicated fragrance, but it is warm and pleasant, and I think probably great for layering. I can see why it is a favorite. Now I am wondering if Ava Luxe has something like Coty Wild Musk :)

This house continues to charm me with pleasing, unpretentious scents. Of those I have tried, Madame X has thus far been the most complex. I smelled: rose, sandalwood, vanilla, amber, powder, incense, patchouli, and something else I couldn't quite put my finger on, but had a sort of astringent and dry quality to it. I did not necessarily smell the notes in the stated order

Madame X reminds me a bit of Givenchy Organza Indecence, but is more dry, less spicy, less woody, and much shorter lived (after about 4 hours it is an amber-vanilla skin scent). It is a beautifully composed oriental, right smack in the middle of what I am typically attracted to. I am going to enjoy this large sample!

This review is for Habit Rouge in EDC concentration.

This one starts with citrus and leather--in the citrus, I smell mostly lemon and bergamot, and the leather is the same castoreum-type leather note that I smell in Shalimar and L'Artisan Dzing!, i.e., leather, skin, bandaid, antiseptic, and manure. There is a hint of spice and vanilla, and the citrus has a sort of woody/grassy smell also, sort of like rosewood or citronella. Overall, it smells very clean (in spite of the manure!).

As the citrus burns off, the spice becomes more prominent. Not totally out front, yet, but I think it is cinnamon. The drying citrus also increases in woodyness, and the lemon smells really juicy, like fresh lemon fruit. At this stage, the leather also comes out more, and compliments the spice very well. As time passes, the juicy, fruity part of the citrus fades, but the citrusy-woody note (rosewood) stays (it has a bit of a furniture polish vibe), and the spices increase in strength. The leather has settled into a comfortable place--less like manure, more like newly tanned hide.

More time has passed...the rosewood is still present, the spices and leather are fading. I am relieved that the cinnamon did not turn into the dreaded cinnamon candle wax note that really turns me off. Sweet resins are starting to come out more--vanilla with (probably) benzoin and maybe some sweet myrrh. I suppose the lemony part could also be from frankincense resin. It is definitely getting an "unburned incense" smell which I associate with beads of resin. HR is quite amazing--I am not sure I get the "Shalimar for Men" association I have read elsewhere, but it surely has a family resemblance. I just wish it hadn't gone by so quickly!

At any rate, there have been very few scents that I found full bottle worthy after only one wearing. Usually I go through a small sample, at least 1-2 ml before I decide. But, Habit Rouge is love at first sniff, and it is not an expensive fragrance in the EDC concentration. (PS I bought a full bottle two days later).

Recently, I've been looking at various vetiver fragrances. Up to now, the two leaders have been CdG Vettiveru and Guerlain Vetiver. I am trying to find something of a Holy Grail, something that captures the woody, nutty quality of vetiver essential oil, but in a complete composition that has good longevity.

The Malle VE starts grassy, dry and earthy, with a bit of an herbal edge which is almost like a mint or menthol. In some ways, the start is similar to MPG Route du Vetiver, but is lighter, and with an almost airy quality. As the top notes burn off, I am starting to smell the resinous nutty quality that I associate with vetiver. The airy note (almost ozonic on my skin) is getting in the way at this point. I also smell a little bit of an ammonia smell--I often get this with fragrances that have lavender or an herbal component. I hope it stays subdued as it is right now.

More time has passed, and although the vetiver is apparent, VE has become very woody and smoky. These notes were also prominent in Route du Vetiver. I must say, the VE is quite a nice fragrance, and I think among the best vetivers. However, the faint sweet, nutty and resinous quality has not really come out in this one. 4-stars for the fragrance, but my search continues.

Jicky Comparison

Left arm: Jicky EDT
Right arm: Jicky EDP

I have only worn Jicky EDT once before, and it was my first exposure to Jicky. I remember the moment so well--at first I did not know what to think of it. But within minutes, I realized that Jicky has a sort of "technicolor" development that is such an eye opener after smelling dozens of flat, linear fragrances. I am reminded of the scene in The Wizard of Oz when Dorothy lands in Oz--transported from a drab black and white world to an amazing place full of wonders and adventure. Scary to be sure, but also exciting and full of potential. However, unlike Dorothy, who was very ready to return home, I wanted the story of Jicky to continue. That first light spritz I had was painfully short-lived, and I felt like I barely had time to understand what had just happened.

Later, I read reviews about Jicky on BN and learned that many people preferred the EDP. I got a sample from TPC, and based on that experience, bought the EDP strength. So, I was left still wondering what the EDT is all about and why people thought it was different from the EDP. Now I know.

I can't say that the EDT and EDP smell radically different from each other. Most people say the EDP is "dirtier", and if your definition of dirty is "more civet", then I'd agree with that assessment. When I first sprayed the EDT, it was instantly more sweet and citrusy, alot less civet and the lavender was barely noticeable. There still is plenty of civet to be had in the EDT, but since the fragrance develops very quickly, the stage where the civet smells the strangest to me (the "moth ball" stage) is quite short. Other than that, the development seems to go quickly from the citrus top notes to a creamy middle of vanilla, lemon and light woods, and dry down is sweet vanilla. The civet does stay throughout, but it is not nearly as prominent. Development went from first spray to drydown in about 2 hours. The next day, it was completely gone.

When I first spray the EDP, I also get the gorgeous citrus notes. But at the same time, everything else was much stronger--more lavender, more patchouli, more vanilla, and more civet. It is definitely deeper and darker. The moth-ball stage lasts quite a bit longer, and the civet is more prominent from top to bottom in the EDP. But I must say, after my first couple of wearings, I really got used to the civet, and now that it has clicked for me, I enjoy and welcome this note rather than being repelled by it. It is such an integral part to Jicky's base. Development of the EDP was much slower than the EDT. Most times when I wear it at bedtime, I can still smell it the next day, although it is very soft by that point. At any rate, longevity is better in the EDP.

I can see owing more than one concentration of Jicky to suit the occasion. The EDT is perfect for day wear, and is very much like a traditional cologne with the strong citrus components being the main attraction. The EDP evokes a more pensive and relaxing feeling due to its rich base notes, and is wonderful for evening or bed-time wear. I love both of them, and now I really want to try the parfum!

I have sampled this once before, and my impression of the scent was pretty much the same then and now. Soap, soap, and more soap, and did I mention soap? It smells like Crabree and Evelyn rose soap. At the start is a bit of interesting rose--and believe me, I am a rose snob, so the rose must be top notch to even get my attention. I did smell a high quality, probably natural rose that was cool, sweet, a tiny bit spicy and a tiny bit raisiny. It was not the kind of edible/drinkable rose I really like, but it was fine and also...refined. It is possible that it did not last long because a natural oil was used. Regardless, with a line like Creed, I expect something else in the fragrance to make up for the fleeting notes, and to be honest, this one so far has not delivered.

No.88...this is the first time I sampled it, and I have really been wanting to know more about this one. I didn't know what to expect, however, the men have been talking about how it is a "masculine rose", so that is the impression I had before today. Having been disappointed by many so-called "rose" fragrances, I am open to trying almost anything where rose is the main attraction.

No.88 is really pushing me out of my typical zone of knowledge--the combination of notes is very unusual. At the start, I smelled rose, soap, patchouli, and leather. It was not the castoreum type leather I wrote about yesterday, but rather a sharp, astringent leather similar to what I have smelled in some from Parfumerie Generale and a few other scents such as Ambre Russe. As the scent developed, the rose stayed strong, and the soap faded. The leather became stronger, and along with it, a smoky, incense smell which often comes with birch tar. The drydown is soapy again, and musky. the rose has pretty much faded, and a tiny bit of the leather and incense is also still present. The musk is soft and sweet, and reminds me of the musk in Chanel Eau de Toilette drydown. I don't smell any patchouli at all now.

This scent is quite interesting. The rose is very important, but works together with the other notes, so it is not really all about rose. Rose with leather and incense is a combination I have never smelled, but I have blended my own oils using rose, sandalwood and frankincense, so it makes sense to me that a combination like this would work. Longevity is pretty good so far, but the most interesting middle phase has already gone after a few hours. I am not sure why the guide gave it only 3 stars...I think it is better than that.

Afterthoughts on the late drydown...sweet fougere, not unlike Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta. No.88 is a strange, dark, incense rose with a wonderful top to bottom composition and excellent longevity. I know nothing of the house C&S and what they were aiming for with this scent, but I think what they got is sort of like a steam-punk victoriana scent (a la Wild Wild West). I will enjoy wearing this again!

Malle Musc Ravageur and Renee Musk Comparison

Left hand: Frederick Malle Musc Ravageur (Oil)
Right hand: Renee Musk

Musc Ravageur--It has been a really long time since I have smelled MR, and only now have I had access to the fragrance again. For some reason, I thought MR was closer to MKK, but now it doesn't seem that way. At the start, I smell sweet musk and spices. The musk is like other sweet synthetic musks I have smelled, and I actually don't think it is super special. What is more special is what is with the musk, in this case, I smell cinnamon, clove, and maybe some nutmeg. It is the pumpkin-pie 1-2-3 punch, trio of spices. I suppose if MR had a little bit of fruityness, it really could be a pumpkin pie fragrance rather than a musk, but I digress. It is either fading fast, or I am getting nose fatigue. I don't detect much progression--it is pretty much staying in the synthetic musk with spices space, although the edgyness of the spices is wearing off a bit, making it a bit smoother and very warm.

Renee Musk--For some reason I remembered that this one started with a sort of pee note, and thought it might be civet. Even in Scent Bar last week, I smelled the pee note briefly when the fragrance was first sprayed on the strip. Wearing it today, what is more apparent is the poop note (aka manure), as this so-called musk is actually very leathery. It has a castoreum-like scent which includes manure, leather, bandaid/antiseptic, etc. The musk is actually very subtle, and seems to be more of a carrier for the leather. This one is also developing very quickly. The castoreum is having its typical progression away from the horse stable and more toward the leather horse saddle. The musk is nearly undetectable at this point.

I must be very honest--after trying some synthetic musk notes in the note identification project, it is clear to me that the quality and concentration of the particular musk aromachemical is of paramount importance. The synthetic musks are mostly ho-hum, with hardly any depth or breadth, so I think they 1) rely heavily on other ingredients to make them shine and/or 2) end up being used as a base because they aid in marrying notes rather than being the star attraction.

As a result, my impressions of FMMR and RM are really not so good, because I think the musks are not so good. They lack the complexity and longevity needed to be the central note in a fragrance. And the other notes which are supposedly supporting the musks are becoming insipid--it is as though they have no base notes. On final analysis, I also have to disagree with statements that FMMR and RM are the same. They do smell *similar* when first applied, but they diverge rapidly.

If I had to pick between the two, it would be Musc Ravageur, because Renee Musk is really more of a leather scent, and I think it is better compared with other leathers rather than other musks. As a former Coty Wild Musk girl, neither of these satisfy me.

Sprayed Dior's Hypnotic Poison from a sample. Can I break out of analysis mode and just say, "mmmmmmmm"?

Yummy almonds, vanilla, cherry, caramel, burnt sugar, cotton candy, salt, soft wood, and maybe some patchouli...so far. I get a little bit of a sweet latex rubber note (or play doh, depending how you perceive it) similar to what I have smelled in Burberry Brit and Gaultier2, but not as strong here. This is a far cry from Midnight Poison (which I sprayed and almost immediately scrubbed a couple weeks ago).

I am getting some floral notes now--not sure what, but white floral, it seems. If it is jasmine, it is a very clean version. It could also be ylang ylang, and possibly a touch of rose since it seems to be a little bit spicy. What a pretty gourmand this is! Rich but not overpowering, feminine and well balanced.

And it just hit me that it reminds me a little bit of Chanel Coco, but mostly from what it evokes for me when I smell it rather than any similarity in composition. I think it might be the almonds--the note is penetrating and astringent, bitter and sweet. This same "bite" is in Coco, and I love it. In the late drydown, it is reminiscent of Kenzo Amour.

I did not know what to expect with this one. I have been wanting to try the Gres line for some time, but never really had the opportunity. Cabotine seems to be mostly a soft floral with plenty of aldehydic notes. I smell a sort of "fabric softener" accord which is present in so many florals and is especially prominent in Estee Lauder's offerings. Of what I have tried, Cabotine comes closest to White Linen, but is far more wearable because the aldehydes are subdued. This is also a very pretty scent, and one that I am nostalgic about. I never wore it, but I have smelled it on others...it is feminine and clean smelling, but does not have sharp, penetrating notes like some of the other soapy scents I have smelled. It is so soft and round, and very welcoming.

I did not know what to expect, but I saw quite a few women wearing it here and wanted to know what the buzz was about. Well, I must laugh, because it really reminds me of Realities Sweet Desire, only less fruity and more vanilla. When I first sniffed it I thought, wow, this smells so familiar, what can it be? Then...click. I smell fruit and flowers at the start, and woods, musk and vanilla in the bottom. It is very much like my memory of the woody orientals I have tried: Armani Mania, Valentino V and V Absolu, CK Euphoria, Prada...etc. What I like about Cristobal is that the woods don't beat me over the head and clog up my sinuses. And, the fruit is subtle, not a harsh jolly-rancher sour candy like some I have tried. It is a comforting and pretty scent.

The scent is very dry on me from beginning to end, but starts with a bit of powder and floral. The powder note smells like ground natural orris root. I am not sure what the floral is, but I suspect it is an attempt at the scent of an iris blossom. The scent is soapy all the way through the development, and it is rather pleasant--not like a choking amount of aldehydes, but really just...soap. Good soap. Really good soap. I was thinking--maybe this scent will just simply BORE me, but it didn't happen. I enjoyed the soapy, clean, powdery scent the whole day. It does wear very close to the skin, but even if I am the only one who smells it, I don't mind. I kept catching whiffs which made me feel refreshed, even late in the day. I am still not sure it is full bottle worthy, but I can understand why it is so popular--it is enjoyable without being pretentious or overpowering. It is a good, every day, every occasion scent, but is not really like anything else on the market right now. Even if you could compare it to Hermes Hiris, this is much more modern and long lasting, but also very linear.

I nearly had an attack this morning when I sprayed it for the first time, because it reminded me of the feelings I had when I sprayed Coty Wild Musk many years ago. There are definitely some resemblances scent wise, and it is very clear that the EL product is far superior in quality. Still, I got the CWM vibe, and I was completely transported by the AYY in these first moments. Even after about 30 minutes of wearing the frag, I thought--"Maybe I found my CWM replacement!" And believe me, that is no small task.

AYY started with amber, vanilla and light florals, very sweet and mellow. It is not as bright or piercing as the Ylang Ylang would imply. It is round and soft, with the barest hint of spice and musk. But then...after about 30 minutes, I started to get a sharp note that seemed like hairspray. In fact, I got the same hairspray note from CWM, so even at this stage it is doing a classy imitation. I think the hairspray smell is actually the artificial sandalwood that is used in the base, because it intensified and lasted throughout the day. This note is very much like the "molten wood" note in EL Sensuous. Sensuous really dried out on my skin, and AYY behaved similarly. I read reports of how sweet it got in the drydown, so I think for others, the AYY sandalwood note may be better tempered by some sweetness in the base. And speaking of similarities to Sensuous, the spicy note in AYY was much less prominent, but I am sure it is also the same as was used in Sensuous. Longevity wise, AYY lasted all day (2 sprays to each arm), and it wears pretty close to the body, but not so close as to be a skin scent.

I may sound crazy to want a Coty Wild Musk replacement, but the new modern musks really destroyed this scent for me. I was so jazzed about AYY when I first sprayed it, my mind was racing about what specials the EL website might be running (free shipping, etc.). But then...disappointment. It just doesn't hang in with the sweet amber for me. I'll try it again to be sure, but I think my first impression is pretty good. The EL AYY is very nice, very wearable, but also nothing special. The ingredients are obviously high quality, and the prices are reasonable. I even think it will be a popular scent. I am just not sure it can fit into the big shoes that CWM has left behind.

I tested Kama Luxe Edition. Regular Kama is not in the directory as of this writing.

Kama--Exotic musks, Ambergris, Civet, Black Amber, Labdanum
Bulgarian Rose absolute (from the Ava Luxe web site)

Lots and lots of cedar, very woody cedar, and a light musk base. As the cedar calms, a nutty note comes out. Now that I read the notes, the woodyness could also come from the labdanum, and that would also account for the nutty quality. I really don't smell any rose or civet, but this frag is definitely musky and ambery. As the sweetness fades, the cedar note smells rather unbalanced. I wouldn't say hamster cage, but certainly it has a sawdust quality to it that is not well attenuated by any of the other notes. Of the two, I prefer this one, perhaps because it reminds me of Body Shop Woody Sandalwood. The drydown is pleasant--cedar note fades, and a vanilla amber base (with a hint of play doh) remains.

I tested the Luxe Edition of Rasa.

Rasa notes: Indian Musk, Kenya Musk, Skin Musk, Egyptian Musk
Peruvian Balsam, Ambergris, Civit , Orris Root - (IRIS PALLIDA)
Russian Rose - (ROSA DAMASCENA) (from the Ava Luxe web site)

I smell resins, light amber and light musk. A little "perfumy" on first application, but acquires a sort of nutty "like skin only better" quality. Mostly it smells like a blend of musks with some florals added--I do not detect much in the way of civet. As the fragrance develops, the rose becomes rather strong--unusual since usually the floral notes fade rather quickly. I can tell this is the same type of boozy rose I really like, but in this composition it isn't working well for me. After some time, powder is becoming more prominent, probably from the orris, but it smells rather synthetic, almost like baby-powder. This helps bolster the rose a bit, but something about this frag just isn't clicking for me.

Guerlain Vetiver shootout

Left Arm: Vintage Guerlain Vetiver EDC
Right Arm: Guerlain Vetiver EDT

I applied 2 good sprays of each. At first, they seemed equally strong, but the EDC had no detectable citrus, rather, it had a sort of burned sugar and caramel note at the top, and the vetiver was immediately apparent--dry, rooty and nutty. The EDT was a bright citrus blast, sweeter than I remembered the last time I wore it. To my nose, the lemon is the most prominent, but it is very well tempered by the other citrus notes so that it doesn't come off as an edible lemon or household cleaner. The citrus lasts for quite a while and is very pleasant. These are the main differences for the first 20-30 minutes--they basically smell like different fragrances, the EDC edging more into the vetiver while the sweet citrus develops in the EDT.

There is a point where they begin to intersect--the EDC vetiver note develops slowly, and the brulee note fades. Likewise, the EDT loses the citrus brightness and sweetness to reveal the drier grassy, dirty vegetal notes of the vetiver. When the top notes in both are gone, they smell identical to me in strength, sillage and quality of the vetiver. Vetiver in general is quite long lasting. I got some of the essential oil on my hands last week, and couldn't wash it off for more than one day, despite repeated hand washing, lotion applications and a shower. So, my expectation for any fragrance which has vetiver in it (if it is natural) is that the vetiver will last long and develop from the nutty, sweet, syrupy start to a dry, woody, smoky finish (if the vetiver is of similar origin). The two Guerlains behave pretty much in this way, except that the EDT is turning out to be longer lasting. It has been about 5 hours since I applied the two. The drydown of the EDC is barely there, except for a salty, slightly sweet and soapy scent. The EDT is still grassy, rooty, smoky and woody, except that it has faded quite a bit. In today's wearing of the EDT, I am not getting the extreme soapyness I had from the first time, but the spicy pepper is definitely there.

My impression of the EDC is that it is more about vetiver than anything else. The vetiver comes out right away, and dominates the fragrance throughout the development. The EDT has more distinct stages--citrus to vetiver to spicy/soapy. I suspect the shorter longevity of the EDC is due to its lower concentration. Of the two, I am not sure which one I prefer, but I think the EDC is more versatile. Plus, I get to enjoy the yummy parts of the vetiver with none of the bitter drydown that I sometimes get from the EDT.

Dior Diorella and Eau Sauvage Comparison Review

Left Arm: Dior Diorella
Right Arm: Dior Eau Sauvage

Eau Sauvage Notes: Lemon, Rosemary, Petitgrain, Basil, Vetiver

On first application, I smell lemon fruit, almost edible, definitely not like lemon household products. It smells like it may have bergamot or some other bitter note to blend with the lemon, maybe even a hint of neroli since there is a bit of floral sweetness. ES is developing quickly, and the lemon is beginning to fade after only a few minutes. It settles in a place that is fresh and light, but a little bit indolic. This could be neroli, or perhaps another indolic floral such as jasmine. Either way, it is a white indolic floral, but is quite faint and it does not detract from the clean sense I get.

After 15 minutes, ES starts to develop into more of a green scent. There is still a hint of citrus, but now it also smells herbal and grassy. The notes list rosemary, basil and vetiver--and I think it is the basil that gives this fragrance its masculine edge. The vetiver provides the dry, almost bitter and grassy quality. The floral note I smelled earlier is really not discernible now, but this green stage does not completely lack in sweetness. In fact, it is quite balanced--sweet, aromatic and a touch bitter.

Diorella Notes: Sicilian Lemon, Peach, Asil, Italian Bergamot, Melon, Green Notes, Honeysuckle, Jasmine, Violet, Rose Bud, Carnation, Cyclamen, Oakmoss, Vanilla, Clove, Sandalwood, Vetiver, Musk, Patchouli.

On first application, I also smell citrus, but it is more of a woody, resinous citrus. It is very mellow and deep. When I inhale, it goes straight to the center of my heart, a sensation I do not get with very many fragrances. I am not sure it is a fair comparison to Eau Sauvage, because I am pretty certain the Diorella is a stronger concentration. Diorella is surpassing Eau Sauvage as far as strength, longevity and interesting progression of notes. The indolic floral in Diorella is much more prominent than in ES. However, it doesn't seem like a floral fragrance, but is rather more like a floral chypre--the sweet fruit and floral is offset by dry, nutty, slightly spicy, woody basenotes.

Now that it has developed a bit, I can smell a boozy overripe or fermented fruit. Could be the melon, but it does seem a bit peachy also. Rose also can get this boozy quality. Either way, it is an "on the verge of going bad" kind of fruit and flower smell that reminds me of Chanel Coco's central rose accord. It also reminds me a little bit of Coco Mademoiselle, although the melon in CM is much cleaner than this. I love this kind of accord as long as it stays slightly edible-drinkable, like how grapes with botrytis fungus make a delicious, syrupy, raisiny, sweet and tart wine.

In "Perfumes the Guide", Turin states that Diorella is a "perfected Eau Sauvage". From the two samples I have, I am not sure I see this, except for a sort of family resemblance. I don't get the "vietnamese beef" accord in either one. To me, Eau Sauvage is a well mannered citrus-floral-herbal cologne. Diorella is a gorgeous, almost edible dessert wine of a fragrance. There is a bit of overlap in the drydown, and it seems that the herbal part of Eau Sauvage combines with a light powdery floral. This tendency is also showing in the drydown of Diorella. But up to this point, they smell like distinctly different, although artistically related, fragrances.

Thoughts about the late drydown...Eau Sauvage is a soft skin scent with a hint of something herbal, probably a light vetiver. Diorella is also a skin scent now, but is fruity and raisiny with a touch of tart melon and a tiny bit of powdery oakmoss. Wearing Diorella all day makes me think that this was the inspiration for Chanel 31 Rue Cambon.

Dior Diorella and Eau Sauvage Comparison Review

Left Arm: Dior Diorella
Right Arm: Dior Eau Sauvage

Eau Sauvage Notes: Lemon, Rosemary, Petitgrain, Basil, Vetiver

On first application, I smell lemon fruit, almost edible, definitely not like lemon household products. It smells like it may have bergamot or some other bitter note to blend with the lemon, maybe even a hint of neroli since there is a bit of floral sweetness. ES is developing quickly, and the lemon is beginning to fade after only a few minutes. It settles in a place that is fresh and light, but a little bit indolic. This could be neroli, or perhaps another indolic floral such as jasmine. Either way, it is a white indolic floral, but is quite faint and it does not detract from the clean sense I get.

After 15 minutes, ES starts to develop into more of a green scent. There is still a hint of citrus, but now it also smells herbal and grassy. The notes list rosemary, basil and vetiver--and I think it is the basil that gives this fragrance its masculine edge. The vetiver provides the dry, almost bitter and grassy quality. The floral note I smelled earlier is really not discernible now, but this green stage does not completely lack in sweetness. In fact, it is quite balanced--sweet, aromatic and a touch bitter.

Diorella Notes: Sicilian Lemon, Peach, Asil, Italian Bergamot, Melon, Green Notes, Honeysuckle, Jasmine, Violet, Rose Bud, Carnation, Cyclamen, Oakmoss, Vanilla, Clove, Sandalwood, Vetiver, Musk, Patchouli.

On first application, I also smell citrus, but it is more of a woody, resinous citrus. It is very mellow and deep. When I inhale, it goes straight to the center of my heart, a sensation I do not get with very many fragrances. I am not sure it is a fair comparison to Eau Sauvage, because I am pretty certain the Diorella is a stronger concentration. Diorella is surpassing Eau Sauvage as far as strength, longevity and interesting progression of notes. The indolic floral in Diorella is much more prominent than in ES. However, it doesn't seem like a floral fragrance, but is rather more like a floral chypre--the sweet fruit and floral is offset by dry, nutty, slightly spicy, woody basenotes.

Now that it has developed a bit, I can smell a boozy overripe or fermented fruit. Could be the melon, but it does seem a bit peachy also. Rose also can get this boozy quality. Either way, it is an "on the verge of going bad" kind of fruit and flower smell that reminds me of Chanel Coco's central rose accord. It also reminds me a little bit of Coco Mademoiselle, although the melon in CM is much cleaner than this. I love this kind of accord as long as it stays slightly edible-drinkable, like how grapes with botrytis fungus make a delicious, syrupy, raisiny, sweet and tart wine.

In "Perfumes the Guide", Turin states that Diorella is a "perfected Eau Sauvage". From the two samples I have, I am not sure I see this, except for a sort of family resemblance. I don't get the "vietnamese beef" accord in either one. To me, Eau Sauvage is a well mannered citrus-floral-herbal cologne. Diorella is a gorgeous, almost edible dessert wine of a fragrance. There is a bit of overlap in the drydown, and it seems that the herbal part of Eau Sauvage combines with a light powdery floral. This tendency is also showing in the drydown of Diorella. But up to this point, they smell like distinctly different, although artistically related, fragrances.

Thoughts about the late drydown...Eau Sauvage is a soft skin scent with a hint of something herbal, probably a light vetiver. Diorella is also a skin scent now, but is fruity and raisiny with a touch of tart melon and a tiny bit of powdery oakmoss. Wearing Diorella all day makes me think that this was the inspiration for Chanel 31 Rue Cambon.

Balmain Jolie Madame Shootout

Left Arm: Vintage Balmain Jolie Madame
Right Arm: Balmain Jolie Madame

Jolie Madame Notes: gardenia, artemisia, bergamot, coriander, neroli, jasmine, tuberose, rose, jonquil, orris, patchouli, oakmoss, vetiver, musk, castoreum, leather, civet (from Bois de Jasmine)

First thought in my mind--these two do not smell like the same fragrance AT ALL. The vintage juice is fruity, peachy, a little boozy, sweet with a burned sugar note. The modern juice (I am assuming it is modern, so I may stand corrected on this) starts dry, powdery, tart. It also has some boozy fruit underneath, and a hint of sharp white floral. I have tested 2 vintage fragrances today, and both had the burnt sugar top note. Now I am wondering if that is an ingredient that oxidized or changed over the years. I can't say it is unpleasant, but I am not sure it is necessarily congruent with the rest of the fragrance. I will have to ponder this one, especially as I try more vintage juice in the future.

Development...the burned sugar note remains in the vintage, but it is becoming a bit more dry and powdery--a dry oakmoss chypre and light leather note. The modern is still powdery--at this stage, it is a different kind of powder, and I suspect this one could be "oakmoss free" because it does not have the same mossy smell to it. It is also possible that the quality of the oakmoss is different, or it is attenuated by the other ingredients. The light leather is also present in the modern one, and the powder note is dry and pleasant. The vintage is more sour-dry, the modern is more acidic-dry.

These two are fairly well matched at the dry chypre powder stage. The differences are so subtle--seems that the modern reformulation is rather good. But, but, but, there is just something about oakmoss. I love it. The oakmoss in the vintage seems just a tad more friendly, a bit less bitter. Of course, it could be the vetiver which adds bitterness to the modern frag. I just love how the vintage one is softer and more plush, with a small amount of sweetness to balance the dryness. In contrast, the modern formula seems very cold and a lot more green. Still, the character seems roughly the same for both vintage and modern. No matter what, Jolie Madame is an amazing chypre, and to me it really doesn't smell dated at all (1953 is the original release date according to the directory).

Afterthoughts on the late, late drydown...I definitely think the modern formulation drydown is more dry, woody, bitter and smoky due to the vetiver. The vintage juice dries sweeter and fruity, almost like a light liquor infused with powdery orris and a hint of oakmoss.