| | Brasil Dream for Men by Estée LauderBrasil Dream is a nice, modern rendition of a classic men's fragrance from the '70s or '80s (think Halston Z-14 or Bogart) done in the more transparent airy style of today but keeping the spicy longevity of the powerhouses of the past. Worth a spin if you can find it. 7th October, 2011. |
| | 273 Indigo for Men by Fred HaymanFred Hayman seems to have an affinity for older fragrances. Both this one and his Touch pay homage to male frags from the past. In Touch's case, Brut was the inspiration. Here, 273 Indigo seems to share some DNA with Byblos, Ricci Club and Open by Roger and Gallet. 273 Indigo is a downmarket rendition to be sure, but if you like the citrus leather of the aforementioned trio or even Ho Hang, this one may appeal to you as well. 23rd September, 2011. |
| | Stetson Fresh by StetsonMy least favorite category of fragrance is the fresh/aquatic, and this falls into that category. Among this dull crew, Stetson's offering is among the better choices due to its nice take on the ubiquitous citrus note which lasts through the life of the scent. I have the aftershave and for this type of use, it works just fine. 22nd September, 2011. |
| | Phoenix by Keith UrbanThe circumstantial evidence against Urban's Phoenix did not look good. The package and presentation, a mock Southwest theme and squat bottle, was disturbingly close to his brother-in-country Tim McGraw's Southern Blend which begins decently enough but soon falls apart. The economy pricing and downmarket availability portended a cheap and gimcrack and mercenary product. And, in the macro view, how many celebrity-flogged contraptions are released each year that are even passably wearable? Surprise, then, that the jury has acquitted Phoenix of the charge of pandering. This is actually not bad. 19th September, 2011. (Last Edited: 20th September, 2011.) |
| | Eau des Baux by L'OccitaneI'm surprised no one has mentioned Le Male in reviewing this. Both start with a similar dry, powdery and mildly sweet aroma. 14th September, 2011. |
| | Escada Homme by EscadaFor what this costs these days, it truly is a great bargain. Escada manages to be dense and heavy while at the same time being well-spaced so that there is an illusion of lightness. The bergamot and lime up top do give an almost civet cast to the opening which recedes in the wake of the booze. I get the juniper and vanilla, but the latter is not forceful nor cloying. Don't overdo the trigger on this one; the penalty could be severe. 9th September, 2011. |
| | Équipage by HermèsUnlike so many fragrances, this one seems perfectly named. The scent evokes the leather goods one might associate with old-money livery: the leather seating in a coach, riding boots, horse bridles, gloves. 8th September, 2011. |
| | Princess by Vera WangOverpriced. Smells cheap and poorly blended and exceedingly artificial. Stick with Avon if you want inexpensive and simple scents. 5th September, 2011. |
| | Allure Homme Edition Blanche by ChanelThis contains one of my favorite uses of lemon. It has none of the furniture polish tone of some others. Frankly I don't get a lemon dessert either. This seems to be straight-up lemon with some musk, vetiver and cedar in small amounts. 2nd September, 2011. |
| | DKNY Men (New) by Donna KaranThis stuff is embarrassingly generic: a copy of a copy of a copy. Violet leaf note? Check. Watery musk? Check. Ultra-artificial citrus? Check. 30th August, 2011. (Last Edited: 31st August, 2011.) |
| | Xeryus by GivenchyMoss is boss with Xeryus. Fragrances such as Acqua Di Selva that contain a prominent oakmoss tend to be very dry and sharp. Xeryus manages to be more refined by buffing the edges with citrus and sweet. After the opening, the woods come to the fore and Xeryus becomes even more comfortable to wear. 25th August, 2011. |
| | British Sterling by DanaBritish Sterling (1965) is another quintessential 60s-era masculine that is still chugging along. Aramis, The Baron, Kanon are all teammates in his old school class. Kanon, Pierre Cardin and Jovan's Sex Appeal have a similar character to British Sterling so one's feelings about those oldtimers will probably apply to Dana's stalwart. 18th August, 2011. (Last Edited: 5th September, 2011.) |
| | Animale Animale for Men by Animale ParfumsAs far as gourmands go, this is a good deal and apparently something of a trailblazer. I'll add nothing by saying that it is an Angel Men predecessor - the noticeable chocolate note up top really makes the connection clear. In my opinion this isn't the classiest genre so I can't get too poetic. It is a pleasant surprise, however. The cheap plastic Shazam bottle doesn't hold promise, the pedestrian double name doesn't entice and the low price would, if mainstream opinion were true, promise a drugstore yawner. Instead, we get Animale Animale's James Brown to Angel Men's Prince: the latter has made a lot more cash but couldn't have existed without the former. 4th August, 2011. |
| | Cigar Aficionado by Cigar AficionadoAficionado (the word "Cigar" doesn't appear on the box nor on the bottle) is definitely a throwback to the 70s and 80s heyday of pungent and aromatic masculine fragrances. It has some of the tobacco/leather character of Bogart and Z-14 with a smoky note similar to Jacomo de Jacomo. The bottle is old school as well. 1st August, 2011. |
| | Gin & Tonic by Demeter Fragrance LibraryThe underrated Demeter line is like a Cliff's Notes version of niche fragrances: the presentation (bottle and label) is uniform; the price is the same for all fragrances (per size); they are not available everywhere; and they have esoteric contents such as "Dirt", "Snow" and "Mesquite." Relatively speaking they smell like the element they purport to mimic. Finally, they are quite inexpensive which makes them a good primer route to non-designer aromas. 29th July, 2011. |
| | Clubman Special Reserve by PinaudThe Clubman line in general is a good bargain, especially for those aficionados of the old school. For less than ten clams one can have that fresh-from-the-barbershop vibe. 28th July, 2011. |
| | Acqua di Selva by Visconti di ModroneAcqua di Selva is a quintessential old guard fragrance. "Dated" doesn't apply: it is not at all modern yet I don't find it anachronistic either. Timeless may be a better term. 13rd July, 2011. (Last Edited: 1st September, 2011.) |
| | Preferred Stock by CotyFor Coty's 1990 release they resurrected the name of a men's fragrance that dates at least back to the 1950s. I don't know if there is any continuity in scent with the midcentury model (although I suspect there is none since this is, as others have noted, similar to Red and hence more modern). The name has a masculine ring to it and connotes business suits and power deals, yet this is not a formal scent. I remember it as soapier (I owned a bottle upon its release) than the current formula. The bottle I now possess has a fruity top note, perhaps a juniper berry or plum. The patchouli and musk predominate and lend an impressive longevity to this budget offering. Overall I think anybody from 16 to 86 can wear this. It's better than the supposed "sport" fragrances on shelves today and for the low cost, even cash-strapped youngsters can splurge on a bottle. Guys, the other boys at the flip-flop store won't be wearing this, trust me. 11th July, 2011. |
| | Krizia Uomo by KriziaKrizia Uomo is definitely of the '80s and definitely Italian. I get mostly a spicy pine right from the jump - think Pino Silvestre crossed with Acqua Di Selva and we're in the conversation. It's relatively linear, changing mainly in volume although the longevity is substantial. I can't think of a lot of other fragrances quite like it and there is certainly nothing out now that is similar. Although an older scent, Uomo is still available through outlets such as Ebay. 10th July, 2011. |
| | YSL pour Homme by Yves Saint LaurentPour Homme starts with a big citrus blast backed with bergamot or lavender. For a brief period the lemon does remind of Pledge but this quickly dissolves and it becomes a straightforward, if potent, classic eau de cologne. What elevates this above 4711 with which it shares a citrus/lavender structure is greater radiance in time and space: the sillage is noticeable but not overwhelming and the longevity for a citrus-centered offering is outstanding. 9th July, 2011. |
| | Eau d'Orange Verte by HermèsEau d'Orange Verte is indeed a natural smelling citrus cologne, with the strengths and weaknesses of its genre. It is pleasant and truly genderless. Longevity is not impressive. On a warm day I get about 5 hours of close to the vest aroma. Surprisingly, this version is better in the longevity sweepstakes then its Concentree counterpart. 8th July, 2011. |
| | Sung Homme by Alfred SungI've had a long, troubled relationship with Sung Homme. When it first came out I was just getting into fragrances. I'd smell it at the counter and just never was compelled to buy it. A few years later I saw it dirt cheap at Marshall's and bought a bottle. Still I was left wanting. It seemed soapy, dry and soapy and nothing more. I discarded that bottle. 3rd July, 2011. |
| | Fire & Ice for Men by RevlonFire & Ice subverts some of my olfactory idiosyncrasies. It is quite sweet, yet not at all cloying. It's not a vanilla cake batter sweetness but a powdered candy one. Cherry is what I come up with. Cherry and light florals. How the heck is this not a disaster? Actually, it's pretty nice. 1st July, 2011. |
| | Giorgio for Men by Giorgio Beverly HillsThis one ticks off all the boxes on the application form for 80s powerhouses: intense sillage, Energizer bunny longevity, prominent patchouli and leather, ersatz classy bottle (ref. Polo Crest, Safari, et al). 27th June, 2011. |
| | Safari for Men by Ralph LaurenI guess I'm among the minority that doesn't love Safari. The eucalyptus and bergamot opening is potent indeed and carries through to the end, to my nose. Unfortunately I don't much enjoy eucalyptus; here it is medicinal rather than minty. It gets points for being rather unique but it's not one with which I am enthralled. 18th June, 2011. |
| | Ho Hang Club by BalenciagaAfter multiple full wearings, I must proclaim Ho Hang Club a masterpiece. Although this is a rookie in my fragrance lineup, it is rapidly increasing its playing time. 12nd June, 2011. (Last Edited: 29th July, 2011.) |
| | Extract of West Indian Limes by Geo F TrumperI bought a bottle of this at the legendary Merz Apothecary in Chicago a few years ago. I had been searching for a quality lime-based cologne and from the bottle on a smelling strip Trumper's was natural and sharp, just what I was looking for. A small bottle was $60 but the quality seemed worth it. 10th June, 2011. |
| | Vétiver Dry by CarvenThis is a very dry and mildly smoky rendition of vetiver. It smells nice although there are better vetivers out there (Grey Vetiver, Royall Vetiver for starters). For once, though, a fragrance fits its title. The bottle is firmly in the old school masculine tradition and the price is reasonable. Sillage and longevity are modest. 9th June, 2011. (Last Edited: 17th July, 2011.) |
| | Aromadisiac for Him by AvonArmani's Code must be the most influential fragrance in the masculine realm of the past decade, perhaps second only to Armani's other best seller, Acqua Di Gio. A bargain outfit such as Avon might be expected to jump on the bandwagon with their own renditions of popular fragrances (and they have). Even higher profile marques such as Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren seem to spend more time retreading existing offerings than developing anything new or exciting, so we can't just pick on the budget lines. 8th June, 2011. |
| | Cadillac by CadillacAs a Cadillac owner, this naturally showed up on my radar. The good news is that it smells good and has excellent longevity. It is a more sophisticated Joop Homme, as others have noticed. The bottle is influenced by Caddy's current Art and Science design philosophy. 6th June, 2011. |
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