Fragrance Reviews by moltening

Sweet and smooth woods and myrrhe. Soapy, quiet, boring. Next!

You are not king.
You are not special.
You are not a beautiful and unique snowflake.
You are the same decaying organic matter as everything else
... and with this you will certainly smell like billions of other guys, only more synthetic.

Felanilla is my vanilla of choice. It also happens that my favorite vanilla scent of choice is also my favorite iris scent, and that my favorite iris scent is also my favorite saffron scent. These are three of my favorite notes, so that's saying a lot.

It literally purrs on the skin like the somewhat cheesy "feline" + "vanilla" name suggests. It's an exotically sensual and sexy blend that starts off with a burst of sweet and warm vanilla pods, cool iris, and a delicate saffron note that is slightly salty. All the three main notes are apparent right from the first spray, resulting in a complex and unique opening that is slightly medicinal, antiseptic, and animalic while remaining familiar and cozy. I was at first doubtful when I heard of the resinous "banana wood" note, but when it revealed itself, all my doubts were gone as it worked perfectly and added a nice quirk that made the scent even more characterful. I loved how the banana, iris, and saffron worked with each other to create something abstractedly animalic. I mean, who would have thought banana could be made into something this sexy? Felanilla dries down to a comfortable bed of powdery vanilla, amber, soft musks, and hay with the saffron and iris still present but at a much lower volume untill the scent disappears and sinks into the skin.

I don't believe in having a single penultimate holy grail, but if were forced to choose the "one and only," Felanilla would be one of the top candidates. I have gone through over 50ml's and still find myself reaching out for it, and it never fails to satisfy. My only complaint is that I wished it lasted longer, but it is okay as it is. Highly recommended for you to sink your teeth into!

With Japon Noir, I get a sweet and smoky accord of jasmine and patchouli that is accented with spices, mostly cinnamon. There's ginger and citrus up there in the top notes too, but it's fleeting. The drydown is dominantly earthy patchouli and amber that is quite leathery and powdery. Not bad at all.

This is the second time I gave it a full wearing till the dry-down in hopes that something might just 'click'. Applied it about 15 hours a go and I am smelling like an oily fish lying on the beach with a coconut! IMO, ELDO has some of the most honest and accurate list of notes around, but last I checked, my blood and semen doesn't smell like this. It starts out very fishy, 'iode-ic,' watery, and oily with some sweet cloying florals around, accented with a lactonic coconut note. As it progresses, it gets saltier and more metallic. Very persistent and strangely sensual. It turns out to be just an above average soft milky sweet-salty floral though. I have something to confess too... I actually found it quite enjoyable - though not revolutionary. I'd give it a C+ grade.

If it's an artistic statement they wanted to make, well, they've done it. Bravo - thumbs up for having the guts to release this!

The other reviews have been a great and interesting read, ranging from condoms to coconuts to homo-eroticism, so here's my ultra-dull concise input for a change:

Take safraleine, the leathery-saffron aromachemical, blend it with some iris, add a tiny bit of lemon plus the "ghost of a traditional cologne," dump in some fatty aldehydes -- and you get Tom of Finland. Soft, but excellent longevity. A genius vibrant second-skin scent.

Botrytis: honeyed spices, fruit, and pipe tobacco over noble rot accented with a little bit of white florals over a virtually wood-less base. Very sweet and overbearing, but very delicious. Try sampling this against By Kilian's Back to Black!

Micallef's astoundingly great offering is true to its name. Gaiac is a warm and enveloping blend of guaiacwood and cloves that are accented by a smoky vanillaic sweetness that lasts till the drydown. The slightly boozy opening morphs into a medicinal undertone in the heart that combined with the smokiness of gaiac and a touch of vetiver, (most likely the Javanese variation) creates an effect similar to the burning of incense sticks. With excellent longevity and decent sillage, Gaiac is simply a joy to wear, especially in cooler weather.

After testing it against Le Labo's uber-exclusive Gaiac 10 and Giacobetti's "gone-in-60-seconds" clove and gaiac-prominent Chaman's Party, Micallef's Gaiac is clearly still the winner. I just had to pull the trigger and go for a full bottle. Highly recommended for sampling, though it may not be a good thing for your wallet.

I'm surprised no one mentioned this yet. Absolument Absinthe is basically a slightly more floral interpretation of CK One. Try sampling them side by side! This is overpriced crap -- avoid!

Dark smoky black tea served with a lemon peel in a wooden tea cup. Light and subtle, with touches of vetiver, overall not satisfying enough. Next!

This one is a compliment-magnet from the chicks, but that doesn't mean this lower-cost copy of Millesime Imperial should be forgiven.

This smells like smoky and bold scotch whiskey, peat, and vetiver with an overwhelming opening. Are you sure this is what you want to smell like? If you want to smell like this -- try some lower-grade vetiver oils.

When people go clubbing in Thailand, they don't drink beer, vodka, and other spirits. What they, the majority, drink is whiskey. And this.... this smells like I wore Encre Noire out to the club, got drunk, and literally bathed myself in scotch, went out to the parking lot and fainted, lying next to a diesel car's exhaust for a few hours.

I'm surprised there is very little mention of saffron. White Aoud is predominantly oud and saffron with creamy vanilla-amber undertones and a small amount of florals. Lighter than other offerings in the Montale stable, but still very rich and satisfying.

As a side note, Aoud Safran is basically a stripped-down version of White Aoud with a higher price tag -- so get this one instead. Also, it is better in the extra concentration.

What Vibert and Moss said, except that I find it to be very patchouli-prominent as well.

Complex - heavy and sharp animalic violets and leather

Complex is a mess.

It starts out sharply with animalic (in your face civet) and tarry violets accented by some bitter-sour labdanum. At this point, I get both the basil and sage together all at once.... and it pretty much stays the same with the ingredients in this chaotic blend fighting for your attention, but at the end, the violet, civet/musk, and birch tar wins. Here, the birch tar and labdanum together help create a smoky-leathery effect. It's not as sensual and enveloping as MKK, it's not a 'second-skin' scent like L'ombre Fauve, and in no way is it nuanced or multi-faceted. It's pretty surprising how it remains sharp from top to base the whole time as well. The overall impression is that the creation is rather confused, unstructured, and just chooses to go with brute force rather than intelligence. (which is just a nice way of saying "It's a stupid crap scent.")

List of notes: Violet, labdanum, leather, musk, civet, basil, sage

Exotic - aromatic blackcurrant over a conventional base

Exotic starts off promisingly with sharp and mentholated blackcurrant (aka 'a bunch of synthetic fruity aromachemicals') that slowly calms down to a fairly traditional creamy but airy melange of patchouli, sandalwood, vanilla, and just a pinch of vetiver with some dirty musk. A bit chocolate-y in texture, but comes off as synthetic. Exotic lacks depth and isn't lush at all as the name might suggest. Still, it's one of the better scents in this disappointing line.

Sills well, great longevity.

List of notes: Musk, black truffle, ylang-ylang, bergamot, blackcurrant, patchouli, vetiver, vanilla tears, sandalwood

Explorer - grim citrus

Explorer is a dark, medicinal, camphoraceous, and leathery twist on the cologne genre, but ends up feeling extremely muddied and grim. It starts off with a lasting bitter citrus and is predominant with cypress and violets. (yet again) Initially similar in feel to Complex, but goes a totally different direction with an emphasis on leather accented by tobacco.

The press release said this was an "acidic enervating citrus." I thought it was just bad writing, but now I'd have to agree -- all the life and vitality of the citrus has been sucked out of Explorer, which may be a good thing for many people as fresh and bracing citruses are commonplace. Good sillage and longevity.

List of notes: Sicilian lemon, citron, cypress, orris, violet, tobacco, Tuscan leather, oud

Intense - honeyed fruity floral

Remember how too much of honey could make frags like Miel de Bois suddenly conjure up images and memories of the men's bathroom? (or in a better case -- noble rot in Ginestet's Botrytis) Well, it's back this time in Boadicea's fruity floral, and it's pissed off. Intense is a very sweet concoction of roses, jasmine, and lily with patchouli and vanilla at the base with honey (unlisted) poured all over it. The phenolic honey note is very persistent and remains present until the drydown. Not too loud, excellent longevity -- perfect one for Winnie the Pooh's wife.

Personally, for me, I think it's quite pleasant, but very mundane and boring.

List of notes: Citrus, rose, lily, jasmine, patchouli, vanilla

Noble - patchouli and rose, but for little girls (and first ladies)

Throughout its progression, Noble is predominantly rose and patchouli with a backdrop of what smells like vanillin and ethylmaltol like you may have encountered before in L'artisan's Vanilia and Profumum's Vanitas. The bergamot is very present at the top and lasts longer than most other scents, but eventually fades away. Sniffed far away, the sillage is very liquor-like and inebriating in a good way. Not too dark like other scents in this category, and more feminine than other patchouli-rose combinations.

It's okay but there is a synthetic plasticky note that annoys me. Still, at $450 for 100ml, you could instead purchase Noir de Noir, Black Aoud, and Voleur de Roses and still have lots of spare change. Considering the ridiculous price, Noble deserves a thumbs down. Someone should send Obama a sample of Black Aoud though. We'd have her swooning.

List of notes: Bergamot, rose, vanilla, patchouli

"Citrus-floral ashtray."

On me, the whole scent becomes transparent, probably caused by the combination of bitter orange and eucalpytus -- conjuring an image of smoked cigarettes floating on iced orange juice, but with all the ice melted. Wears lightly with slightly subpar longevity and sillage. Very unsatisfying.

What a lovely oriental! LDDM is an exotic dry honeyed incense and swirling spice with an ambery base and vanilla. Tauer deserves the praise he's been getting.

Brandy is a cheerful and simple fruity blend of apple brandy garnished with cinnamon.

It's not earth-shattering or A-grade material, but it sure is charming and would work great as an air freshener.

Spicy, smoky, boozy, and ambery -- opening with light citrus and saffron laid on a bed of sandalwood and rum. This is very very lovely. Stronger and more direct than Giacobetti's other works, but still quite ephemeral.

Harmatan Noir, opening with citrus, is an aromatic and airy scent that revolves around mint, woods, and black tea with faint notes of fruits and flowers. Very decent and competent, though longevity could be much better than this.

Aomassai is a distinctive gourmand that opens up complexly with roasted hazelnuts, caramel, and a melange of spices, drying down to a simple accord of vanilla and woods. It's an EDT, so longevity and sillage is just average despite the strong start.

Animalic leather? Not really. 'Mineralic aldehyde and woods' would be a more appropriate summary of Rien WITH a brooding animalic undertone made by my current pal and ex-enemy, Civet. As for sweetness, there is barely a hint of it here.

Rien starts off with a burst of very intense aldehydes and a dry airy mineralic/metallic incense accord. (The one you can detect in L'ombre Fauve in minute amounts) It then 'calms down' to leathery peppery woods and patchouli. (What I smell as "wood" is probably the leather) Altogether, my favorite from ELDO.

Coze is a funky sharp herbal patchouli-scent with a texture of chocolate dust.

Here's my original review, that I found to be quite pretentious but actually not that bad:

"A comfort scent of sitting in a garden of pixelized leaves and sunshine that's right next to a pool of soapy water that is filled with sentient robotic fish while being blown on the face by gusts of sweet refrigerated air."

WARNING: Initially, it smells like nothing, but try over-spraying or over-applying and you might find yourself running to the sink with a headache to wash it off. Even when applied lightly, the sillage and longevity is surprisingly monstrous for such a clean scent. There is a sharp synthetic note in Odeur 53 that I believe to tell the wearer's brain that "Hey! There's something that smells chemically dangerous around you! Here, have a nice headache. This should make you take care of the smell!" However, after a while, your brain gets used to it -- then you can start spraying that 200ml bottle of yours like there's no tomorrow.

I have sampled both 53 and 71 and I at first have found both to be pretty underwhelming. Initially, I thought that 71 was more interesting/challenging and that 53 was too overly subtle. (note: boring oblivious nothingness) However, a few days ago, I sprayed some GPHII on my body and applied a very little bit of 53 on my hands from my sample vial then went outside. It was very windy that day. I walked around then suddenly I wondered what smelled so nice. I knew that it wasn't the GPHII. Then I realized it was the 53! The combination of the evening breeze with Odeur 53 was in my opinion, strangely amazing.

I was also surprised at the sillage that was given off. When sniffed up close, it's nothing much to get excited about -- pleasant, but nothing too exciting. Kinda like "my skin but better." When I smell 53, I think of "refrigerated chlorophyll, cellulose, and air." For me, it's a very "green" and transparent frag. A good frag for a windy day. Overall, it's pretty unique and easy to wear.

Here's my review today:

Soapy woods with a plastic tinge. Wears lightly. Pass!

Cloves! ... and very ashy and dry honeyed cedar, incense, and spices (prominently cinnamon) that feel like they're smoldering right in front of you, only to have the entire composition fall apart on itself, and it's a beautiful sight and smell indeed.

Sweet, smooth, and refined buttery iris, honey, incense, and blond woods. (or silver according to Slimane) As a whole, Bois d'Argent is subtle, but intricately detailed, and has surprisingly good longevity. Personally, this is my favorite of the three boutique-exclusive scents, and a good compliment-getter.

Yet another winner from Annick Menardo!

Here's my pretentious review when I was a n00b:

If Odeur 53 was a comfort scent of sitting in a garden of pixelized leaves and sunshine that's right next to a pool of soapy water that is filled with sentient robotic fish while being blown on the face by gusts of sweet refrigerated air --

...then Odeur 71 would be like standing alone, being the only human in a desolate robotic landscape with miles and miles of plastic-covered buildings that block out the sky. In the distance, you also see some robots burning pieces of rubber and other various synthetic material. They are there, but they make no sound. Everything is silent -- and the dust of the barren synthetic terrain are blown onto your face.


Here's my review today:

Metallic and woody. Okay, but boring. Pass!

I'm usually lazy and not the type to often write up long winding reviews with flowery language, but I felt the need to point out that this is an excellent unisex gourmand/oriental, especially in the EDP Intense concentration.

Anyways, this pretty much has nothing to do with the original Poison. The regular EDT version of Hypnotic Poison, made by Annick Menardo who also gave us the wonderful and weird Patchouli 24, Bvlgari Black, and Bois d'Armenie, is a velvety bittersweet vanilla-almond oriental with coumarin, heliotrope, and some oakmoss to stop it from falling into the sweet-toothed-girl category. (Don't get me wrong though, HP *IS* very sweet, but it is so in an intelligent way and not teeny-sweet) I found the EDT to fall short and turn quite thin on the dry-down too quickly as well as being quite bland after a while.

On the other hand, is the EDP Intense aka Hypnotic Poison Elixir, an EU-exclusive rework done by Francois Demachy. (Eau Sauvage Fraîcheur Cuir, Dior Homme Cologne, etc) In addition to the extra longevity and sillage along with the original base of HP, there is added notes of salty licorice and star anise. This new element makes the scent more complex, deeper, darker, slightly smokier, and more interesting -- making it formidable competition to heliotrope-heavy niche scents like Cuir Beluga. Overall, compared to the EDT, this is much more satisfying, especially for those of us who are deep into niche territory.

This should be called Tubereuse, not Cedre.

Aoud Lime is a twist on the traditional gentleman's cologne with the addition of a very pronounced oud note. I initially turned it down. Back then, little did I know, that it would eventually end up in my wishlist. Definitely one of Montale's better scents in the oud line.

Jack of all trades, master of none.

A smooth classy citrus-vetiver oriental with woods and spices that morphs between different phases while still retaining its elegant (and very powdery) vanillaic character. Very well-done, but the progression it goes through feel familiar, orthodox, and conventional -- reminiscent of classic Guerlain's. (which turned out to be a pretty good thing!)

Cedre Sandaraque is creamy, soft, aromatic, resinous, and smoky sweet with cedar and "pralined vetiver" being the main stars. Pierre Guillaume has struck a perfect balance yet again. On me, a grainy tea-like (my guess is "cereal") note comes to the fore and becomes tinged with grassiness. It is accented by a minute amount of vetiver and florals, while cedar gives it a radiant warmth throughout.

7.8/10

Oud 27 roaringly starts right off the bat in an animalic fecal fashion that is both deep, dirty, and compelling -- overwhelming the olfactory system with labdanum, amber, patchouli, cedar, saffron, and of course, that hip note of the moment, oudh. The dirty note then gradually retreats, revealing the scent's other more sensual and oriental-esque facets along with faint traces of tobacco, rose, and a tiny amount of fruits. It lastly dries down to a musky, but clean and smooth blend of cedar and gaiac, a very pleasant and subtle finale like a soft meow.

The first hour or so is the stage that may be too much for most people. I've read many comments where people mention that the beginning is close to being repulsive, with the drydown being heavenly. Personally, I find the first two hours to be much more enjoyable and far more interesting than the drydown, which is just as I wrote earlier, a "pleasant meow."

Hardcore fans of MKK and such would be disappointed that Oud 27 just shows its fangs then wimps out, while lovers of sensual woody orientals would be put off by the initial scarefest before arriving at the heart. Regardless of what category you fall into, Oud 27 is a strange beast indeed and should at least be sampled. Admittedly, it IS flawed and would most likely be a let down for many who expected something more different and distinctive. As for myself, it's something I enjoy and would happily decide to purchase again.

Invasion Barbare is my definite favorite from the MDCI stable. It pillages the only other masculine offering, Ambre Topkapi, and its feeble peasants into oblivion with ease.

IB is a mesmerizing deep aromatic blend of lavender, warm spices, a cool dash of well-mannered violets (not like NR PH), citrus to balance things out, and sweet cedar mixed with a light vanilla-musk base. Sounds boring doesn't it? Well, it isn't going to go anywhere near 'unique territory' and explore new horizons, but it's definitely not boring and 'run-of-the-mill' either.

Claude Marchal (MDCI) summarizes it as an "oriental fern," which I think is a very appropriate description for what it is. It's somewhere between the realm of the oriental and the fougere, while also being more at the same time. It's not syurpy and sticky, but instead -- devoid of amber and very sleek + contemporary in feel. (Makes 'New York' look ancient) Most reviews say that the scent itself is warming, but I find it to be pretty cool due to the violets with the spices creating a balancing warmth. (less so)

In the end, Invasion Barbare is very refined, well-mannered, elegant, with appeal through the roof. It's admittedly a scent that is very easy to fall in like or love with. Can be easily pulled off by women too IMO. It's easy and pleasing on the nose so it would be an excellent choice as a "versatile everyday all-purpose scent" for anyone that can be appreciated not only by the wearer, but also people lucky enough to be near by.

Chergui is undoubtedly the epitome of the Lutenesque style.

A smooth, deep, and honeyed blend of hay, spices, tobacco, tea, light florals (I smell a bit of iris) and the usual oriental suspects -- vanilla and amber. Altogether a top-notch oriental. Highly recommended, especially as an introduction to the Serge Lutens brand.

The head gives this four stars, as that is what it deserves -- but my heart gives it five, as I am in love with this concoction.

Very promising start that is a combination of vetiver and anise/licorice -- but falls flat on its face a little while later as it settles down to a thin and unsatisfying drydown. When compared to other vetiver-prominent scents like Encre Noire and in unfair comparisons -- to Vetiver Tonka and Malle's VE, Air is just not up to the task.

Well, if you're looking for a transparent vetiver scent that is even more transparent than JCE's works, then this may be the perfect choice. Have to credit it for being somewhat "different" when compared to most run of the mill designer fragrances though.

There is a reason this scent is called Louve, the female wolf.

On my skin, the almond-cherry-vanilla sweetness later reveals a dirty powdery musk. The musk is more amplified on me than when my girlfriend wears this. IMO, the composition as a whole is pretty tame though (and very feminine too), so perhaps "Late Teenage Wolf" would've been a more appropriate name.

Woody vetiver, vetiver, and some more vetiver with volume turned up a few notches. Similar to the vetiver used in Kenzo Air and sharper/less rounded than Malle's VE.

I don't think this is like Cuir Ottoman at all.

It's a vivacious (I hate that word) fruity blend of apricots and a very light suede/leather. Works much better on my girlfriend than on me though. She gets tons of compliments when she wears this. On me, it gets transparent the same way SL's Five o'Clock au Gingembre does. Personally, I prefer Cuir Ottoman over this. It's also fruity, but the leather is much more tenacious and present, with a slight dirtiness I appreciate.

From start to finish, all I get is cassis (cinnamon bark) and orange. I don't like it.

Like many people, I originally disliked Arabie.

Yes, it's sweet AND cloying.

Yes, it will overwhelm you with a medicinal stew of dried fruits.

But guess what -- Arabie is perfectly wearable and works wonderfully on me. Give this one a few chances.

I tried to visit A List Fragrances' website, which apparently were the ones "responsible" for this.. little abomination. Well, it appears they didn't even bother creating a website, which clearly reflects their level of effort. Seriously though, this is just a more concentrated recreation of various 80's-themed frags. This one has no heart and soul.

This ain't no dragon -- a lizard perhaps? This is just a boring dismissible messed-up synthetic mish-mash. Smells cheap with no glimpse of hope to save it from complete utter mediocrity... and then it's gone. Hooray!

A take on the classical "eau de cologne" with a twist. From the many different variations and derivatives of the cologne theme I've tried, this is one of the most characterful and appealing.

The typical cool sharp herbal-citrus opening with a touch of lavender fades very quickly, revealing the twist which here is a bucketload of anise/licorice that soon fades in volume leaving behind incense and tobacco. If you think that sounds masculine, yes, you're right, it is -- after all, it was meant to evoke Napoleon. Note that some may be turned off by the overwhelming amount of anise, but frankly, I am a fan of the note. Not the best scent in the world, but I have to give a well-deserved enthusiastic thumbs up for this one.

Oh no! Why did you spill your grape slush on my Bentley's seats?! You could've just sprayed some Cuir Venenum!

This marks the end of the 80's, the end of an era. (but I was only a few months old then so what do I know?)

It is undoubtedly a well-constructed fresh fougere, but given how I feel about it now, I can only give a neutral rating. Alas, I'm sure it had once been in a part of all our lives. A memory for countless people for sure.

I spy. I spy a wet dog rolling on the cement. It gets a lil too playful and gets nauseous. Then it vomits out the leaves and sweets it ate earlier for afternoon tea.

Actually, it's not that bad. Just not for me at all.

Deep boozy vanilla that doesn't disappoint. Lasts forever and envelopes the wearer.

Believe the hype.

I wanted to like this, and I do.. but...

I just goes on oaky, smoky, and dry.. then that's it. However, by far, this is probably the most authentic conjuration of oak, but it just lacks the magic and charm I wanted it to have.

Altogether, will still buy if I see a reasonably priced bottle of it on the swap and sale boards.

The best in the Odori line by far. Jealous that everso managed to snatch a bottle at half price!

Anyway, it's a fresh chemical-esque smelling leather scent with great complexity that somehow ends up smelling just like my like great grandmother's bedroom. Funnily, my girlfriend said this smells like her grandma's room as well.

Powder. Powder. Powder. Hazy woods. And some more powder.

But wait! The sillage is actually very pleasant. One for the chicks.

Messe Serale.

Avignon, once more with feeling. (and an enveloping sillage/aura)

Spicy nothing. Cool nothing. Fresh nothing. Clean nothing. Synthetic nothing.

But "nothing" can actually end up being a good something. Am I making sense?

Cool Water with better materials, but done with less finesse.

Slightly dirty and kinky leather with iris, fruits, and something balsamic. Intoxicating sillage. A guilty pleasure.

Pedestal-worthy amber fragrance.

Very light for a Lutens. This wears easily and is mysterious and romantic.

Extremely thick, syrupy, powerful, and rich. Herbal like Ambre Sultan, but much sweeter with a hint of smokiness from the incense.

What's special about this one is the sillage. It's a sillage monster alright. The good thing is that the sillage is indeed pleasant: resinous and sweet and to my surprise, without being too cloying.

It's all about the choco-coffee and patchouli. (No, I didn't feel like typing in "mocha")

I have been on and off about A*Men for a very long time since I first purchased my bottle way back in high school, and guess what -- I'm back to likin' it and I'm close to finishing university. Yes, the bottle lasted all these years even after occasional use.

From my old post last year:

IMO, as a house, Divine is really underrated. How often do we see threads on Divine? I have recently finished my sample of L'homme Sage and have been considering whether it is bottle-worthy or not. Here's what I thought of it:

L'homme Sage begins with a spicy blast of aromatic saffron and cardamom that recalls an Indian spice market that I have often passed through in my youth, which melds in beautifully with the bitter-sweet citrus that is hidden together with some subtle notes of fruit. (lychee I say) We are then lead by the trail of smoky incense through the woods with little flowers along the way into a base of very lovely patchouli and amber that is complimented by some very pleasant wood notes. By that time, we have already reached a wooden log cabin -- filled with the serene scent of "being at home, with peace of mind, and away from the chaos" surrounded by the enveloping earthiness of the woods that surround the cabin. Like the sage, this scent quietly seduces with words of wisdom, not with sheer power or brute force. Simply divine!

Okay, enough flowery language. This spicy-woody-sweet scent to me smells really smooth, sophisticated, and complex. However, I sometimes feel that a little something is missing when I wear it despite it being very rich and "3-dimensional." (a little more oomph would be great) Maybe because it is too solemnly made without any sort of quirks or playfulness? Nevertheless, it is a very attractive and compelling blend indeed, but it could've been something more as well. Sillage is somewhere between okay to good --- and it stays surprisingly quite close to the skin for such a rich scent.

So -- what do you think? Is it worth the price for you? The sleek 50ml spray is 75euro ... while the 150ml flacon is 150euro. Personally, I think the 150ml is definitely worth the price. Despite some shortcomings, I find it impossible to not give this a thumbs up.

Smells just like Jergens' Shea Butter Cream Lotion with a touch of vanilla pods.

It sure does smell synthetic, but what did you expect?

My favorite lavender scent. I prefer this over SL's own Encens et Lavande. This is very charismatic and unique.

Ashy and dry lavender. Lasts long and leaves a very pleasant trail. Perfect for the well-dressed sophisticated.

I can pull this one off easily since I really love and appreciate foody scents. Wearable and fun to wear.

Nutty and starchy bread-like notes (fennel) underlined subtly by iris and woods, it does everything I want it to.

JCE scores another hit in my book!

Spicy cloves, bay, cinnamon, and lavender that reveals a rose laid upon sandalwood that is lightly touched by incense.

Very nice, soapy, and medicinal -- stays close to the skin.

My favorite exclusif. My favorite patchouli scent.

Coromandel is a refined and multifaceted blend that revolves around patchouli and (white) chocolate. It is very rounded and smooth as opposed to Sheldrake's "other" patchouli and chocolate, Borneo 1834, which is blunt, monolithic, and very "in your face." Don't get me wrong though, both are great, but go different directions.

Dry smoky vetiver and dark woods. Good stuff -- the new Sycomore for the exclusifs, not the old one.

A great alternative to Vetiver Extraordinaire, and IMO, the most masculine of the exclusifs.

A dark, rich, and refined leather/iris fragrance that's balanced from top to base with vaguely gourmand notes and powdery amber.

Pure heaven.

You know what this reminds me of?

The smell of a luxury hotel -- and their hotel soap.

This is light, fresh, green, and really easy to wear. Safe, but good. I prefer this over Mugler Cologne.

Tonka beans are the star here. They aren't edible, but if they were, VT would smell like a picnic on the grass with many sweets made from tonka bean to choose from.

Anyway, tonka bean seeds contain coumarin, which can be lethal in large doses. For this reason its use in food is banned in the US by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Many anti-coagulant prescription drugs are based on more powerful forms of coumarin.

Folks, this is it. This is the ultimate comfort scent -- the scent of sweet baked goods garnished with spices, fresh from the oven.

There is a synthetic in this that I absolutely can not stand anymore.

Sorry, but this is one of the very few fragrances that make me gag.

One of Benetton's best, but that isn't saying much. A refreshing citrus scent, painted in green.

Aldehydes. Just aldehydes everywhere. Tempered with a VERY sour magnolia and patchouli with vague fruits and woods. (The incense isn't worth noting IMO) This ends up being very perfumey, decidedly feminine, and just unpleasant. Abstract? Meh. It's just sour and cold. Thumbs down.

bbBD pretty much nailed it. Densely spicy gingerbread garnished with cinnamon and served with a cup of tea. Makes Five o'Clock au Gingembre feel like an EDT. This lasts forever and ever. Amen.

This smells like dried Chinese chrysanthemum... or dirt... or a medicine and herbs shop in Chinatown. Longevity is as expected -- subpar. Still, for what it is, this is pretty good, and enjoyable too.

Cinnamon in limbo.

There, but doesn't feel like cinnamon.

Conscious? Nah. Dead? Not yet. Alive? Yea, it's somewhere in there.

Masculine? Nope. Feminine? Probably a bit.

This one is so middle of the road, suspended in mid-air, and even has the ghost of Paco Rabanne's "Paco" in it. The initial top notes are pretty harsh and nothing to get excited about... but then it gets better with the entry of even harsher cinnamon after the bergamot fades -- ending up smelling like a snowball on a bed of flowers sprinkled with cinnamon.

Cinnamon is cleansing and is an extremely terrible scent if used in the bedroom. Outside, it works pretty well as a veil-like light (but harsh if sniffed up close) scent.

Thank god it's only 30ml.

This is like an EDP version of CK One. Spicier and greener. Was a blind buy -- not quite what I expected, but not bad at all.

IMHO, best masculine rose scent ever. Period.

Cedary, crispy, clean, and with a radiant sillage "aura" plus excellent longevity. The cumin in here is actually pleasant -- not the ones you'd expect in say.. an Indian dish. (Don't get me wrong I love Indian food!) Either way, this is charming and bottle-worthy.

Not as assaulting as Montale's Black Aoud -- or "nice, but not that nice" like L'artisan's VdR, or hard to wear like FM's Une Rose. The list goes on... this one gets it just right.

... And this is coming from someone who usually dislikes roses.

Sharp. Chaotically peaceful. Similar to 'Let me Play the Lion' but greener and with a blackcurrant dropped in, which spoils it for me.

As a lover of tea, from the roasted genmaicha in CDG's Tea to the muted 'violetized' black tea in GPHII as well as "real" teas for drinking, how can I not love this? Living in Thailand, I have access to a wide variety of teas from the region. Well, this was a "love at first smell" experience for me.

Smoky, rich, mildly sweet, and honeyed -- with a feeling of timelessness. Perfect in my book. It's pretty dark, but is not sinister at all.

What's even better is that this is not a "difficult" scent... It's pretty easy to understand and appreciate.. even for non-enthusiasts. This one is a compliment-magnet and does well with the ladies... I find it very easy for me to wear. Unique, elegant, and versatile.

A winner is T42.

I grew up around temples (and incense) that have a scent similar to that of Kyoto's.

... And yet it still does not bore me, despite being decidedly linear. Comforting and contemplative.

On the other hand, people could say that "It's just incense." Well, tell them that you don't feel like carrying around burning sticks of incense.

The opening is a bit cataclysmic and "everything all at once" -- which isn't exactly a bad thing. I appreciate sharp (discordant) bracing openings sometimes, and this is one of them. Provokes thoughts of "Come again?" "What?" and "Wow." at the same time.

I haven't gone through the entire Bond line yet, but this is definitely in the top tier.

Resinous and incense-y with mix and match florals to create a sweet faux-metal tin can effect. I smell a patchouli-thing going on in there as well -- with the cedar too.

At $230 for 100ml -- you'd have to sit down and think for a very very long time. Thumbs up, but for now, my wallet will stay in my pocket.

Not exactly boozy for me -- all I get is nauseatingly synthetic vanillic sweetness with leather that feels like it got wrapped around a soaking wet dog. Somehow, it feels "muted" and powerful at the same time -- something that doesn't fare well with me.

I expected to like this, but it is rather "out of date, "fairly arrogant, and smells quite surprisingly cheap. I can see why it's discontinued. Sorry, but thumbs down.

If I had the option to choose Ten Thumbs Down, I would.

This one makes me nauseous for some reason. Sweetly uncomfortable. Sillage is okay but the "sillage" itself that is given out is lackluster.

Smells similar to Dunhill Blue.
With hundreds of better offerings -- avoid like the plague.

Sweet. Powdery. Violet-ey compliment-magnet.

Makes a good and exciting first impression -- but bores quickly.
Like a one night stand.
Or most blind dates.
Or MacOS X.

An aged (not exactly "rotten") orange sitting on an old wooden bench.

Somewhat tranquil -- but overapply and you'll end up smelling like a toilet cleaning/floor-washing liquid.

Fig lovers -- this may be the holy grail you've been searching for!

As for myself, I'll be frank -- I'm still not convinced. It's like sitting under the shade of a fig tree -- then someone mischievous suddenly starts spraying coconut juice. Annoyed, your S.O. tries to ignore the troublemakers by cutting the unripe figs she had just picked into halves and throws them back at the misfits. Finally, they leave after being terrorized by the green-ness of the figs. Sadly, by the time you try to sit down and enjoy the scent of the figs -- you smell nothing because there are no figs left -- just the faint smell of leaves and the wood.

Gaultier² = Sweetness²

Amber.
Vanilla.
Musk.
That's what you get at first
-- and that's what you'll get in the end as well.

On the skin, it feels warm, radiant, tender, and organic. Beneath the surface, my nose also senses something that is slightly animalic. At first sniff, it smelled very familiar to me -- like something forgotten long ago in childhood that I had found again. A good intimate scent that should be used only in certain places and at certain times. I'll let you be the judge. :)

Bottleworthy? Let your nose (and tolerance of sweetness) be the judge for this one.

If Scent Intense was the color of dark dark grey, I'd say 21 would be creamy white with a little pinch of yellow.

On me, what I got was a strong (but velvety) milky/caramelly wood with very noticeable whiffs of spices (cumin? saffron?). I'd say it's organic, warm, comforting, and "enveloping." It's complex, sophisticated, and has very decent longevity as well. I like it a lot and find it interesting and different, but I'd go for a bottle of Scent Intense first. A bit on the feminine side -- but can be pulled easily by just about anyone.

If I was to describe how Marine smells in one word... it would be this: CHEAP.

Generic. Boring. Bandwagon-esque -- and nothing like the original. (What seaweed note? Where has the posidonia gone?)

Much lighter and way sweeter. Don't get me wrong -- I love alot of sweet scents but this is the run of the mill "synthetic fresh calonic" that ends up making alot of money for designer houses. For me, this one smelled embarrassingly generic and sickly citrusy sweet. I'm not being harsh here, but IMHO it is Bvlgari's worst and also cheapest smelling scent.

This could've and should have been marketed as a totally different fragrance -- not a spinoff of Aqua. It could've been unisex/pour femme as well. Before buying it, try it a few times. I really couldn't stand it on myself.

A surefire two thumbs down!

Safe, but not as "generic" as it may seem.

The sweetness of the initial blast is a bit annoying - but thankfully it goes away real quickly and pretty much ends up being spicy. I get ALOT of ginger.

I believe this scent even has a bit of personality. Believe me -- you can do a lot worse than choosing Starwalker.

I'm on my second bottle now. Recommended use: Leave it in your fridge and take it out for a spray after taking a shower.

Man, where do I start.

On me, this is a rosey-jackfruit fiasco. Simply disastrously sickening on me.

Imagine being trapped in a sea of roses in the shell of a titanic GMO jackfruit. Then suddenly, a spice carriage selling pepper, lime, and vetiver decides to crash in -- sending the rosy citrusy top into oblivion. The sweet fruity notes are far too sick and nauseating for me to handle without going "ugh" -- and this is coming from someone who enjoys Gaultier2 and Lolita Lempicka au Masculin as well as some of Serge Luten's syrup-drenched sweetness.

This is what I call sweetness done the wrong way. It also smells synthetic, so 90's, and so CK. Then guess what, it even gets worse after that the longer it stays on your skin! Yes, yes, I know I'm being harsh and that this scent at least deserves a neutral rating. It definitely wouldn't offend people around you, but there is a high chance that it would offend you, the potential victim/wearer of this scent.

Bottleworthy? To put it in the politest way I can -- hell no. :)

Echo was meant to smell synthetic, crisp, and fresh with its light ozonic metallic sweetness. Well, that's what you get.

When I think of Echo, I think of the city. A very "urban" scent indeed. Kudos to Mr. Rashim for the bottle design though.

On my skin, this is extremely boozy (sweet rum), slightly woody, and with just the right amount of spices. This isn't "redwood," but instead bits of wood that is sprinkled on an exotic red cocktail of rum and spices.

This is going straight to my wishlist. Despite being named Sequoia, note that wood does not take the spotlight, so if you're expecting a good ol' woody-wood fragrance -- you're in for a disappointment.

Overall, it is a very addicting and magnetic scent with loads of character.

Bottleworthy? Yes please. =)