Perfume Reviews

Reviews by moltening

Total Reviews: 105

Vanille Extrême by Comptoir Sud Pacifique

Smells just like Jergens' Shea Butter Cream Lotion with a touch of vanilla pods.

It sure does smell synthetic, but what did you expect?
02nd January, 2009

Gris Clair by Serge Lutens

My favorite lavender scent. I prefer this over SL's own Encens et Lavande. This is very charismatic and unique.

Ashy and dry lavender. Lasts long and leaves a very pleasant trail. Perfect for the well-dressed sophisticated.
02nd January, 2009

Bois Farine by L'Artisan Parfumeur

I can pull this one off easily since I really love and appreciate foody scents. Wearable and fun to wear.

Nutty and starchy bread-like notes underlined by iris, fennel, and woods, it does everything I want it to.

JCE scores another hit in my book!
19th December, 2008 (last edited: 06th December, 2011)
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Tabacco by Odori

Citrus-floral ashtray.

On me, the whole scent becomes transparent, probably caused by the combination of bitter orange and eucalpytus -- conjuring an image of smoked cigarettes floating on iced orange juice, but with all the ice melted. Wears lightly with slightly subpar longevity and sillage. Very unsatisfying.
19th December, 2008 (last edited: 01st August, 2009)

Costes by Hôtel Costes

Spicy cloves, bay, cinnamon, and lavender that reveals a rose laid upon sandalwood that is lightly touched by incense.

Very nice, soapy, and medicinal -- stays close to the skin.
14th December, 2008

Sycomore Eau de Toilette by Chanel

Dry smoky vetiver and dark woods. Good stuff -- the new Sycomore for the exclusifs, not the old one.

A great alternative to Vetiver Extraordinaire, and IMO, the most masculine of the exclusifs.
13th December, 2008

Coromandel Eau de Toilette by Chanel

My favorite exclusif. My favorite patchouli scent.

Coromandel is a refined and multifaceted blend that revolves around patchouli and (white) chocolate. It is very rounded and smooth as opposed to Sheldrake's "other" patchouli and chocolate, Borneo 1834, which is blunt, monolithic, and very "in your face." Don't get me wrong though, both are great, but go different directions.
13th December, 2008

Private Collection - Cuir d'Iris by Parfumerie Generale

A dark, rich, and refined leather/iris fragrance that's balanced from top to base with vaguely gourmand notes and powdery amber.

Pure heaven.
07th December, 2008

L'Eau de L'Artisan by L'Artisan Parfumeur

You know what this reminds me of?

The smell of a luxury hotel -- and their hotel soap.

This is light, fresh, green, and really easy to wear. Safe, but good. I prefer this over Mugler Cologne.
07th December, 2008

Bois d'Argent by Christian Dior

Sweet, smooth, and refined buttery iris, honey, rootbeer-esque myrrh incense, and blond woods. (or silver according to Slimane) As a whole, Bois d'Argent is subtle, but intricately detailed, and has surprisingly good longevity. Personally, this is my favorite of the three boutique-exclusive scents, and a good compliment-getter.

Yet another winner from Annick Menardo!

Similar to Myrrh Ardente and VCA's Bois d'Iris.
29th November, 2008 (last edited: 02nd November, 2011)

Hypnôse Homme by Lancôme

There is a synthetic in this that I absolutely can not stand anymore.

Sorry, but this is one of the very few fragrances that make me gag.
29th November, 2008

Idole de Lubin by Lubin

Spicy, smoky, boozy, and ambery -- opening with light citrus and saffron laid on a bed of sandalwood and rum. This is very very lovely. Stronger and more direct than Giacobetti's other works, but still quite ephemeral.
29th November, 2008 (last edited: 29th July, 2009)

Hermèssence Ambre Narguilé by Hermès

Folks, this is it. This is the ultimate comfort scent -- the scent of sweet baked goods garnished with spices, fresh from the oven.
29th November, 2008
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Hermèssence Vétiver Tonka by Hermès

Tonka beans are the star here. They aren't edible, but if they were, VT would smell like a picnic on the grass with many sweets made from tonka bean to choose from.

Anyway, tonka bean seeds contain coumarin, which can be lethal in large doses. For this reason its use in food is banned in the US by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Many anti-coagulant prescription drugs are based on more powerful forms of coumarin.
29th November, 2008

Cold by Benetton

One of Benetton's best, but that isn't saying much. A refreshing citrus scent, painted in green.
29th November, 2008

Serge Noire by Serge Lutens

Turin was right. Sheldrake often makes a hell of an oriental, but Serge Noire is indeed an oriental from hell. Scorching, burning, and camphorous ashy incense laced with cinnamon and cloves. Pure evil!
25th October, 2008 (last edited: 02nd April, 2010)

New-York by Nicolaï

Jack of all trades, master of none.

A smooth classy citrus-vetiver oriental with woods and spices that morphs between different phases while still retaining its elegant (and very powdery) vanillaic character. Very well-done, but the progression it goes through feel familiar, orthodox, and conventional -- reminiscent of classic Guerlain's. (which turned out to be a pretty good thing!)
18th October, 2008 (last edited: 05th July, 2009)

Comme des Garçons 2 by Comme des Garçons

Aldehydes. Just aldehydes everywhere. Tempered with a VERY sour magnolia and patchouli with vague fruits and woods. (The incense isn't worth noting IMO) This ends up being very perfumey, decidedly feminine, and just unpleasant. Abstract? Meh. It's just sour and cold. Thumbs down.
18th October, 2008

Private Collection - Cedre Sandaraque by Parfumerie Generale

Cedre Sandaraque is a sugary, aromatic, and smoky-sweet combination of cedar and vetiver. On me, a grainy tea-like cereal note comes to the fore and becomes tinged with a metallic grassiness. Not entirely natural smelling- but it's quite pleasant.

13th October, 2008 (last edited: 10th May, 2015)

Private Collection - Un Crime Exotique by Parfumerie Generale

bbBD pretty much nailed it. Densely spicy gingerbread garnished with cinnamon and served with a cup of tea. Makes Five o'Clock au Gingembre feel like an EDT. This lasts forever and ever. Amen.
13th October, 2008

Cozé 02 by Parfumerie Generale

Coze is a funky sharp herbal patchouli-scent with a texture of chocolate dust.
13th October, 2008 (last edited: 29th July, 2009)

Dirt by Demeter Fragrance Library

This smells like dried Chinese chrysanthemum... or dirt... or a medicine and herbs shop in Chinatown. Longevity is as expected -- subpar. Still, for what it is, this is pretty good, and enjoyable too.
11th October, 2008 (last edited: 10th November, 2011)

Harmatan Noir 11 by Parfumerie Generale

Harmatan Noir, opening with citrus, is an aromatic and airy scent that revolves around slightly smoky mint tea and cedar with faint notes of fruits and flowers. Has an addictive metallic quality that together with the salty patchouli create an air of something very different. Decent and competent, though longevity could be much better than this.
04th October, 2008 (last edited: 23rd December, 2011)

L'Eau Rare Matale 06 by Parfumerie Generale

Dark smoky black tea served with a lemon peel in a wooden tea cup. Light and subtle, with touches of vetiver, overall not satisfying enough. Next!
17th August, 2008 (last edited: 31st August, 2009)

Illicit by Billy Jealousy

This is like an EDP version of CK One. Spicier and greener. Was a blind buy -- not quite what I expected, but not bad at all.
28th July, 2008

parfums*PARFUMS Series 5 Sherbet: Cinnamon by Comme des Garçons

Cinnamon in limbo.

There, but doesn't feel like cinnamon.

Conscious? Nah. Dead? Not yet. Alive? Yea, it's somewhere in there.

Masculine? Nope. Feminine? Probably a bit.

This one is so middle of the road, suspended in mid-air, and even has the ghost of Paco Rabanne's "Paco" in it. The initial top notes are pretty harsh and nothing to get excited about... but then it gets better with the entry of even harsher cinnamon after the bergamot fades -- ending up smelling like a snowball on a bed of flowers sprinkled with cinnamon.

Cinnamon is cleansing and is an extremely terrible scent if used in the bedroom. Outside, it works pretty well as a veil-like light (but harsh if sniffed up close) scent.

Thank god it's only 30ml.
28th July, 2008

Rose 31 by Le Labo

Cedary, crispy, clean, and with a radiant sillage "aura" plus excellent longevity. The cumin in here is actually pleasant -- not the ones you'd expect in say.. an Indian dish. (Don't get me wrong I love Indian food!) Either way, this is charming and bottle-worthy.

Not as assaulting as Montale's Black Aoud -- or "nice, but not that nice" like L'artisan's VdR, or "angry" like FM's Une Rose. The list goes on... this one gets it just right. Of course, Homage is miles better.
27th July, 2008 (last edited: 22nd November, 2011)

Tea for Two by L'Artisan Parfumeur

As a lover of tea, from the roasted genmaicha in CDG's Tea to the muted 'violetized' black tea in GPHII as well as "real" teas for drinking, how can I not love this? Living in Thailand, I have access to a wide variety of teas from the region. Well, this was a "love at first smell" experience for me.

Smoky, rich, mildly sweet, and honeyed -- with a feeling of timelessness. Perfect in my book. It's pretty dark, but is not sinister at all.

What's even better is that this is not a "difficult" scent... It's pretty easy to understand and appreciate.. even for non-enthusiasts. This one is a compliment-magnet and does well with the ladies... I find it very easy for me to wear. Unique, elegant, and versatile.

A winner is T42.
26th July, 2008

Silver Bond / Andy Warhol Silver Factory by Bond No. 9

The opening is a bit cataclysmic and "everything all at once" -- which isn't exactly a bad thing. I appreciate sharp (discordant) bracing openings sometimes, and this is one of them. Provokes thoughts of "Come again?" "What?" and "Wow." at the same time.

I haven't gone through the entire Bond line yet, but this is definitely in the top tier.

Resinous and incense-y with mix and match florals to create a sweet faux-metal tin can effect. I smell a patchouli-thing going on in there as well -- with the cedar too.

At $230 for 100ml -- you'd have to sit down and think for a very very long time. Thumbs up, but for now, my wallet will stay in my pocket.
25th July, 2008

parfums*PARFUMS Series 3 Incense: Kyoto by Comme des Garçons

I grew up around temples (and incense) that have a scent similar to that of Kyoto's.

... And yet it still does not bore me, despite being decidedly linear. Comforting and contemplative.

On the other hand, people could say that "It's just incense." Well, tell them that you don't feel like carrying around burning sticks of incense.
25th July, 2008