 | MCM 24 Morning by MCMThis isn't a bad frag. It's in that Molto Smalto, Eternity for Men, Ungaro III range. Think of Molto Smalto, but not as rich and without the powdery sandalwood. Now ask yourself why you would want that. In other words, the other ones have something to offer that goes beyond this one. It is natural smelling, and I don't think you have to worry about reformulations, so that's something to consider. My favorite from this group is Molto Smalto, which has a fabulous, balanced drydown that lasts a long time. Morning is a "one hit wonder" kind of fragrance (it has no flaws), but there are plenty of other bands playing similar songs that have a few hits, at least. 18th December, 2011. |
| | Incense Oud by By KilianA woody/peppery rose with an oud accent. There is absolutely nothing in this formulation that I enjoy. It's not unpleasant, like some oud fragrances (in how harsh they can be), but this is more of something I'd rather just sample on a strip then throw it away a minute later. For rose, I really enjoy fragrances like Rose d'Homme or Royal Secret for Men, and I generally avoid oud fragrances, though it's acceptable here. Perhaps this is a good fragrance if you want to "make an impression" but I can't think of the social occasion this would be appropriate for, especially if you are a man. Is this what billionaires smell like these days? Not ever been in a room with one, I couldn't say. My guess is that the hardcore oud or woody/rose crowd would think this a bit too shy, but that's based on very limited experience. Cabaret (the women's version) would be a reasonable substitute for this one, in order to conserve my money, if I wanted something like this (and as I said, I don't need the oud note). It's not bad, and I won't take price into account, so I'll give it a neutral. 24th November, 2011. |
| | El Paso by LomaniStarts out like Pino Silvestre (must be the thyme especially) and soon transitions into a fragrance very similar to Cool Water (which I really dislike). Longevity and projection ("sillage") seems to be mediocre, but I didn't apply enough to really tell because I didn't want more of a dab of it on me (so that I wouldn't have to smell it much). It might be a bit more complex and interesting than Cool Water, but I just don't want to subject myself to too much of it. I'll give it a neutral because it's cheap and isn't horrifically "chemical" or anything like that. I can't give it a positive because I find these kinds of fragrances to be "blobs" that don't smell especially pleasant. This might be a great gift for someone who doesn't know much about fragrances if you don't want to spend much money. 15th November, 2011. |
 | Giorgio for Men by Giorgio Beverly HillsI gave the EA version a regular wearing today (1 spray to chest), and I've never tried the original one. It's probably strong enough for me, but I won't go to two sprays because I find that this kind of frag can nauseate me. I think it's the combination of patchouli, amber, and wood, especially cedar. Here, there is sandalwood and cedar listed as notes, but they must be very mild, because barely detect anything resembling wood and this frag doesn't bother me too much. There is also the possibility that it's too blended, because the new Givenchy Gentleman doesn't seem to bother me. Givenchy Gentleman has better note separation, so right now I'd guess it's the blending that is most likely to blame. 15th October, 2011. |
| | McGraw by Tim McGrawNot bad at all, though I'm assuming you will get a bottle for around $5-$10 at a discount store. It's got a nice vanillic/pachouli/woody base. There is a somewhat musky lavender and mild spice before you get to the base, and that persists as well. It's not "synthetic" enough to be irritating, though the musky lavender may be too much for a lot of people. I need to be in the mood for it, and don't think of this as an "office scent." However, if you think of the base of Roadster and the middle notes of L'Instant Pour Homme EdT, then you will get an idea of McGraw. L'Instant is more gourmand/anisic whereas Roadster is herbal/minty, while McGraw is musky lavender/spice, so it's sort of like what you want on the side of your steak to me: baked potato, French fries, or onion rings? Granted, the French fries might be better than the onion rings, but there are times when you prefer onion rings. Longevity and projection ("sillage") are at least good, especially the longevity. 5th October, 2011. |
| | Ignis by Omar SharifIgnis has that "black" quality: sweet/fruity, a bit heavy/syrupy/vanillic, a little spice, a little patchouli, a little powdery, a little musky, a touch of tobacco (tonka type), etc. I wonder if this was the first of its kind, since I can't think of one that was introduced before 1994. It is somewhat similar to Burberry's London for Men but without the strong wood element, though with an animalic element (it's mild) Perhaps most notablly, it has that dried fruit/port wine thing that London has. Ignis doesn't have any "synthetic" qualities, which makes it superior to London, at least to me, nor does it has a "blob"-like quality, which seems to be a problem with this kind of fragrance. Projection/"sillage" is at least good and longevity is at least very good. Beyond the top notes it's rather linear, which is not uncommon with these kinds of fragrances. All in all, it's quite good, though not the kind I find myself drawn to these days. The notes work too well together, so there isn't as much contrast or dynamism as I'd like. This is perhaps best classified as a "romantic" fragrance, since it doesn't have the "monster sillage" one would expect of a party fragrance. 23rd September, 2011. |
| | Cellini by FabergéSort of an anisic version of the original formulation of BIjan for Men (which is woodier), though apparently Cellini came first. It's not as complex as the Bijan, and it feels lighter, though by no means is it any kind of "weakling." The anise is quite strong at first, and reminded me a bit like IL by Lancetti for a while, but then it settled down into a more blended fragrance. Anyway, this is what you would expect from a fullbodied 80s style men's fragrance. Over time, Cellini goes in a more herbal direction than Bijan, with the anise kind of melding in. The listed hay and leather are not strong, nor is it particularly sweet. It seems that the listed middle notes overpower the base ones, but it lasts a long time with at least good projection/"sillage" (the opening has strong projection). One thing that is very well done here is the blending. You can tell the notes are present, but it has no "blob"-like quality. The balance is great and it smells natural. No, the drydown is not as smooth as Patou Pour Homme (and there's not clear animalic note), but this may be the closest thing to it, once you get a few hours into it (otherwise the anise is too strong). 22nd September, 2011. |
| | Jaguar (original) by JaguarI was fortunate to acquire a 125 ml splash bottle, still sealed in the box! It has the wood cap (screw type) and says 85% alcohol. I decanted some into a dab vial and applied it that way. Doing this, I didn't detect much in the way of top notes. It seems like it takes a while for the amber to heat up and help bring the other notes out. The orange is there but muted, and it wafts in and out gently, perhaps for a couple hours. The two main themes here are ones I found in vintage Xeryus and vintage Quorum. From the Quorum type, I get green, leather, and tobacco. The Xeryus type features a strong amber, cedar, and spice type of accord. It's definitely not too sweet, nor musky, and while the lavender note is clear, it's not irritating, as is the case in many "men's" fragrances from the 1980s. One thing that's great about this one is that it offers all the complexity, dynamism, balance, and naturalness you expect from a great vintage fragrance without any qualities that might offend anyone; hence, you can wear it for any occasion. And I see no reason why it would cause problems in hot weather. 21st September, 2011. |
| | Sud Est by Romeo GigliIf you've tried Pino Silvestre and New West for Him, just think of a cross between them, though more towards New West. There is a strong pine-like note at first, but once that is gone it's a rather blended fragrance. Yes, there is clearly an herbal presence but it's not that clear. What bothers me most is that there is a "bright"quality which seems out of place and too strong. Is there any calone in this one? I seem to be especially sensitive to it. Not only don't I like this quality, but it seems to rob the fragrance of what might be a very interesting, super-dry quality. If you like fragrances with some calone, you might not even notice it here. 28th August, 2011. (Last Edited: 10th November, 2011.) |
| | Ocean Rain for Men by Mario ValentinoI did a small wrist dab kind of sampling and I can't say there is anything pleasant about this one. The animalic quality is quite strong, but doesn't last very long. For a while, it seems like a bunch of discordant notes are competing for dominance. After perhaps 45 minutes, a much less potent scent is present, a little mossy, a little ambery, a little green, etc. I'd much rather wear Nino Cerruti Pour Homme, which features a similar idea in the base with a really nice thyme note that comes to the fore. This one doesn't seem to know what it wants to be, so to speak, and I can't think of any reason to wear it instead of another fragrance that has a sense of direction but is at least somewhat similar. Due to the strong animalic note in the opening, it's no surprise this one was discontinued. My guess is that a very small percentage of the population would have any interest in it if it were relaunched now. 19th August, 2011. |
| | Woodhue for Men by FabergéI acquired a vintage bottle of this and had no idea what to expect. Fortunately, the top notes seem to still be as strong as ever, since I can't imagine them being any stronger! There may be a wood note up top, but since I try to avoid top notes I don't want to make any definitive claims about that aspect of it. The drydown has moderate projection/"sillage" with good longevity. Imagine Dior Homme's drydown, but with no tobacco note. That would be similar to Woodhue for Men. The lavender is DH is stronger (if there is any lavender in WfM), but the "vibe" is very similar. In other words, it comes across more as a a somewhat sweet, leathery, powdery fragrance. Instead of cacao, WfM has more of a minty quality. There's probably a wood note in the drydown, but it's way in the background, so I'd advise against blind buying this if you're looking for a strong wood fragrance. 9th August, 2011. |
| | Puma Man by PumaI think there is some confusion over which fragrance is being referred to by reviewers. The one I have is listed at Fragrantica.com as Puma Man (2002). The notes given are: 6th August, 2011. |
| | Worth pour Homme by WorthThe lavender is strong at first, and perhaps with the rosemary, creates that "hair spray" type quality that some people refer to when reviewing fragrances with top notes like this. It softens up, slowly at first, then quickly after an hour or so. I get quite a bit of moss in this fragrance, and it's quite similar to Azzaro Pour Homme, minus the anise note, once you get to the middle. The base is quite weak, so I have to spray more than usual to get decent longevity. Anyway, this may be best thought of as Azzaro Pour Homme with anise subtracted and leather added, especially after the top notes subside. It's now selling for next to nothing on ebay and some online discounters, so if you are a fan of this type of fragrance it would seem to be a "no-brainer" to grab one now. 19th July, 2011. |
| | Eau Parfumée au Thé Rouge by BulgariI drink "red tea," but I don't really want to wear it. I also don't like fig notes, so this isn't something that appeals to me. After no more than about two hours, it is very weak. If you are a tea fragrance fan, you might want to try this, as it is natural smelling. I don't find it complex enough, though it is rich, for a while at least. 18th July, 2011. |
| | Night Spice by ShultonIs Shulton's Night Spice very similar to Bogner Deep Forest? This is what some claim. I tried Night Spice, after getting a decent deal on a large bottle, though I've never tried Deep Forest. There was strong lavender at first (though not irritating), but that didn't last long. The drydown was a typical Old Spice kind of thing, sweet, dry, and creamy patchouli/sandalwood. It's a little powdery, perhaps a touch of spice, etc. What impressed me most is how nicely blended it is. There is no harsh anise or anything like that. I didn't detect a major moss note, if there is any oakmoss at all. There may be a mild animalic note. There is no major clean/soapy quality to it, as one finds with "men's" fragrances from the 1980s that contain a lot of lavender. 8th July, 2011. |
| | Maxims pour Homme by MaximsA slightly floral, slightly powdery, somewhat sweet blend (with a hint of spice) that dances around a pile of wood. That's mostly what I get (leaving aside top notes, which I try to avoid). I'm not getting any appreciable leather, patchouli, or oakmoss. Those who seek the kind of sandalwood note you get in a lot of "men's" fragrances from the 1970s and 80s might like this one, but I'm not a huge fan of it. If I didn't have others like it, I'd go ahead and try to grab a bottle cheaply. However, since I do, I will just keep my mini bottle of this one and be content. Longevity is very good and projection/"sillage" is just right. I'll rate it positive because I think it will satisfy those who seek this kind of fragrance. 4th July, 2011. |
| | Signor Vivara by Emilio PucciThe leather isn't quite as strong initially as it is in The Knize Ten, though it's certainly strong. It's also got a strong spice note (seems to be mostly cinnamon), and it's a little sweet. It also has that same full, rich, and powdery quality. Though it seems to have some oakmoss, I think it's got more of a sandalwood than oakmoss accompaniment to the leather (than K10). And while it seems to have patchouli, it doesn't go into that heavy patchouli/wood/amber cream accord that I find so revolting for some reason. Unlike K10, I don't detect castoreum here, nor any other clear animalic note. Longevity is at least good and projection/"sillage" is solid but not overpowering. If you find The Knize Ten to be unbalanced, this would be one to try, though it seems to be very rare. I should do a side-by-side comparison with Gomma by Etro, but you get the idea: this one is in that leather fragrance territory. Also, it's quite natural smelling and nicely balanced. 3rd July, 2011. |
 | Cool Water by DavidoffUPDATE: I gave this one yet another chance. I think the note pyramid at fragrantica.com is more accurate: "Top notes include mint and green nuances, lavender, coriander and rosemary. The heart notes include geranium, neroli, jasmine and sandalwood. The base is composed of cedarwood, musk, amber and tobacco." 30th June, 2011. (Last Edited: 31st August, 2011.) |
| | Monogram by Ralph LaurenThis is clearly a patchouli/cedar Oriental, but it's a bit different than others I've tried. There is what I call the "jasmine suntan lotion accord," as well as a cool quality, which I can't explain. Could it be a touch of something like eucalyptus, perhaps combined with vanilla/benzoin? There seems to be a strong spice note, but it's nicely blended in. It's not especially herbal, if there is any major herb note. There may be some pimento in here, from past experience with that note. There is no strong lavender, as one finds in many "men's" fragrances of this era, nor is there an animalic note, which another RL fragrance that is similar, namely vintage Chaps, does possess. There could be a little leather or oakmoss, but I'd be surprised if there was much. The "problem" I have with it is that is has that strong patchouli/amber/cedar type accord that I personally dislike when it is this strong. Also, if you are familiar with it, I can imagine Monogram as the masculine counterpart fragrance to the original Roccobarocco perfume, to provide yet another way to think about it. Longevity and projection/"sillage" are excellent. 30th June, 2011. |
| | Yatagan by CaronPicture yourself in the deep woods, on a hill. You observe an area where a bunch of paths come together. Then you hear a shriek and see a figure coming out of the woods, near that terminal point. It is a man, apparently, covered in mud, pine needles, and who knows what else, and he is flailing about with his arms, yelling and snorting. He sees the paths, and decides to run down one of them. You have no idea what that was all about, but he apparently does. Soon, you can barely hear him, though you never understood anything he seemed to be trying to communicate. 18th June, 2011. |
| | Patchouli Plaisir by MolinardThe notes are, according to the Estonian site, are: Orange, exotic fruit notes, sandalwood, vanilla, and patchouli. 12nd June, 2011. |
| | Artisan by John VarvatosThough I try to avoid top notes, this one was in a dab vial so that wasn't much of an issue. It just smelled like what I call the "jasmine suntan lotion" accord, which I don't like much. I have Roccobarocco, which is a "women's" fragrance. It also has this kind of accord but adds a nice sandalwood note and seems more "natural," so I'll stick with that one, on the few occasions that I'm in the mood for this kind of thing. 10th June, 2011. |
| | Mark Birley for Men by Mark BirleyI think of this one as a highly refined version of Uomo? Moschino (which was introduced two years later, apparently). What's really interesting is how this makes MB wearable for me, whereas U?M was too crude and harsh. Anyway, they both have a lot of notes which seem to be crowding each other out. The theme is a lemon meringue kind of smell. In other words, there is a bit of lemon with a slightly sour quality, and it's also a little creamy. It's a touch woody, and as you might expect, sweet, but definitely not very sweet. After an hour or so the projection/"sillage" drops off significantly, but it seems to be linear otherwise. Longevity seems good if not great. If this is what you seek, I doubt you can get it in a less expensive fragrance, though as I said if you don't mind a crude version of it, you can go for U?M. If I took price into account, I'd give it a neutral, but since I don't I think it deserves a positive, especially considering it's not to my taste at all yet I do like it on some level, and would wear it as a change of pace once every month or two. 12nd May, 2011. |
| | Boss Bottled by Hugo BossIf you can't afford this, just grab some Adidas Victory League (which is less than $10 for 100 ml, last time I looked), which I sampled before this one. AVL is clearly more chemical/synthetic smelling but by the time you get to the drydown you will likely be used to it. Anyway, this one is quite good for what it is. As someone else noted, it's a kind of hybrid, somewhere between gourmand and woody oriental. I'd also say it's unisex due to the sweetness (which isn't oppressive) and lack of anything harsh. Also, it has a creamy quality, which is more common in fragrances marketed to women. Longevity and projection/"sillage" seem good to very good. This is a rather simple fragrance, so don't expect greatness here, but it certainly doesn't have the obnoxious qualities I find in so many men's fragrances like this (Rochas Man, A*Man, Body Kouros, etc.). At the very least, it's a good "change of pace" fragrance. Unlike a few others, I don't find it too synthetic, and I'm usually sensitive to this problem in many recent fragrances. Because I have AVL, I don't know if I need to keep this one, since I don't wear this kind of fragrance often, but it is a nice scent. Clearly, this is aimed at a fairly young crowd. 12nd May, 2011. |
| | Lacoste Eau de Sport by LacosteA very nice blend, with just enough note separation. What you get here that you don't get with recent designer fragrances is a natural-smelling, rich, complex, and earthy, yet soft and rounded scent. It has a fresh aspect, with a touch of grassiness, as well as a distinct floral quality. The base is subtle yet excellent, with no one note overwhelming the others. One thing to keep in mind, though, is that it has the kind of muskiness that those used to only recent fragrances might not like. 10th May, 2011. |
| | Joseph Abboud by Joseph AbboudThere's a woody/vetiver and amber "backbone" to this fragrance, along with the moderately sharp citrus (the orange is obvious), pepper, and herbs. I don't get much in the way of any other spice note here. Also, it's a bit musky, but not a heavy musk. Mostly, the overall impression I get is a basket of leaves from citrus trees. It's reasonably natural smelling, with decent projection/"sillage" and longevity. If you want something more floral and animalic, go for M. de Morabito. If you want more diversity and dynamism, go for Coriolan (which has a clearer spice not in the base as well as a dry leathery quality). Not sure where the "root beer" impression comes from, because I don't get that at all. This is rather linear, so if you don't like the idea you will not like this fragrance. There is no "waiting for it to get better" with this one. Over time, it seems to just get more mellow. There's nothing "wrong" with it, but if you have a similar fragrance (Greenergy is another one), then you might not be happy if you blind buy it and find that it's not really going to improve your rotation much. 10th May, 2011. |
| | Cuba Green by Cuba ParisThis seems to be an "homage" to Escape for Men, though I find this more subtle, and for me, in this case, that means more wearable. There seems to be a mild herbal element, rosemary perhaps, and the base is a rather blended, though clearly a little ambery. At first, I think there is citronella, along with some fruitiness, and the latter persists for a long time. If you hate any fragrance that even hints at a "bubble gum" quality, avoid this one. Overall, it's okay as a change of pace, at least for me. The atomizer is very fine (on my 100 ml bottle) so I have to spray at least four times whereas I usually spray once or twice with other bottles. I'll give it a positive review because it's not "bad" in any way and for the price I don't feel justified in criticizing it for not having any "special" qualities. This is quite "rounded," so don't expect any harshness, "green" or otherwise. 26th April, 2011. |
| | Acqua di Parma Lavanda Tonica by Acqua di ParmaI'll just speak to the drydown here, which is very soft, with nothing resembling a "sharp edge." It reminds me of a lighter, softer version of the original Comme des Garcons perfume, with a nice assortment of spices and a kind of soapy, candle wax quality to it. It's natural smelling and has no flaws, though I can't speak to everyone's skin chemistry (especially involving the supposed lack of longevity). Clearly, there is lavender present, but it's neither the sweet "barbershop fougere" type nor the sharp, dry erbaceous type. Longevity is at least good, but the projection/"sillage" is moderate at best, once you get to the drydown. While it doesn't have the level of complexity and note separation that I prefer, I could imagine myself using it as a change of pace every couple of months. 21st April, 2011. |
| | Versace l'Homme by VersaceSome claim there was a very bad reformulation. I think I have the original formulation, if there are two or more. The problem with it, for me, is that it has that patchouli/amber/cedar combination that just seems to destroy my sinuses. There are a number of fragrances like this, and perhaps the most popular is Envy for Men. Anyway, I do like how the ginger is handled here, and if that combination was just toned down I might like this one, but as it stands I can't tolerate it. It has a bit of a creamy quality, for those of you who would like to know. It is natural smelling and strong. It may lack some dynamism, but it's hard for me to say for sure because I find that combination so offensive and difficult to endure. I'll have to stick with my diluted version of One Man Show for this kind of green fragrance. Green Jeans is different, though. There is no patchouli or ambery quality, nor is it at all creamy (OMS isn't creamy either), nor is it spicy. The focus in GJ is on the herbal and red pine notes. It's a bit synthetic at first but the drydown is quite nice. I'd say you can think of l'Homme as a woody version of Envy for Men. 18th April, 2011. |
| | Ungaro III by UngaroWell, I was finally able to obtain a little of the Made in France version, and it's very different from the new formulation, that's for sure, much more "rounded" and natural smelling, overall. The lavender doesn't seem as strong either. This is a quality fragrance, and much subtler than the reformulation. You can detect the similarities but they are very different, at least when you get to the drydown, which is what I focus on. I'll change my rating to positive but that's for the original. The new formulation is for a "cologne guy," and thus I would likely give it a negative, though I don't have any of that, so I'm going by memory. 8th April, 2011. (Last Edited: 29th April, 2011.) |
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