| | Poivre 23 by Le LaboI recently smelled Le Labo's Poivre 23 at the Le Labo counter at Liberty's in London and was pretty disappointed. From all the reviews I'd read beforehand and given its apparent emphasis on pepper which is one of my favorite notes in perfumery, I was sure I would love it. And I didn't. Not even a little bit. 3rd December, 2008. |
| | Terre de Sarment by FrapinI smelled Terre de Sarment recently at Les Senteurs in London and was very impressed. It is a wonderful manly sort of fragrance which has leather, birch tar and bergamot notes calmed down by a light floral overlay. In short, Terre de Sarment is quite elegant and my boyfriend loved it! 3rd December, 2008. |
| | Pulp by ByredoAfter having heard all the praise about Byredo's Pulp, I couldn't wait to try it. The first time was this past autumn at Colette in Paris and the second time was a month later at Les Senteurs in London. Even now, I am still wondering ........ what is the big deal about this perfume?? On me, Pulp is basically a grapefruit scent which evolves into black currant, blackberry and various other fruits. It is powerful and smells a lot like those sharp-ish fruity perfumes created by Jo Malone such as her Wild Fig and Cassis (which I don't like). 3rd December, 2008. |
| | 8 88 by Comme des Garçons888 is one of my current favorite perfumes but it is so artfully blended and unusual that I can't figure it out. For some reason, I always think I smell a bit of red or black grape in 888 (a la Mona di Orio's Nuit Noire). At other times it seems like a wonderful spicy mixture of white flowers (esp. orange flower) and white musk. The "official" information put out by Comme des Garcons is that 888 is meant to smell like gold but whatever it is, it always smells wonderful and "like me". And like a magpie attracted to shiny objects, I can't get enough of 888's stylishly flat gold bottle. Divine! 3rd December, 2008. |
| | Labdanum 18 / Ciste 18 by Le LaboSimply put, Le Labo's Labdanum 18 smells like an expensive sweet-ish amber baby powder from top note to base note. It is is similar smell-wise Houbigant's Quelques Fleurs and just as horribly cloying and awful. Le Labo makes so many wonderful, original perfumes and I am perplexed that Labdanum 18 is one of theirs. 3rd December, 2008. |
| | Je Suis Un Homme by Etat Libre d'OrangeGiven all the mystique enhanced by odd names and at least one nose-scruncher in the Etat Libre d'Orange line (guess which one that is!), I was a little wary of "Je Suis Un Homme". Well, I needn't have been because it is a relatively tame fragrance that smells like a variation on the theme of citrusy eau de cologne for men. In fact, I am surprised that Etat Libre d'Orange bothered to make this perfume at all as it just doesn't have any shock factor. 3rd December, 2008. |
| | Piper Nigrum by Lorenzo VilloresiI was expecting a fresh peppery perfume from Lorenzo Villoresi's Piper Nigrum but instead, in the top and middle notes I experienced mostly whiffs of pungently fresh oregano and thyme. Piper Nigrum is one of the more astringent fragrances I've ever smelled and while it is not awful, it sure isn't very likeable. Once the base note finally appears, I will concede that Piper Nigrum has a distinct black pepper aspect but I am not crazy about the journey to get there. 3rd December, 2008. |
| | Dia for Women by AmouageAmouage's Dia is a lush, slightly heavy floriental-style perfume with aldehydes, powder, frankincense and a touch of bergamot. Dia is a warmer fragrance than its sister perfume Gold and mellows into a beautiful fragrance that reminds me something that an elegant woman living in London in the early 1930's would spray on prior to putting on her white fox fur stole and going out into the evening. Amouage Dia is perhaps even more beautiful when it has had a chance to dry down and is a close cousin smell-wise to Chanel No. 5. I liked smelling Dia for testing purposes but I can't really imagine wearing or buying it as it is a little formal for my lifestyle. 3rd December, 2008. |
| | Amouage Gold by AmouageAmouage Gold smells very similar to their Dia fragrance with Gold being the lighter of the two lush floral perfumes and having a bit less of the spicy oriental notes. Thanks to the iris and violet notes, Gold has a "cooler" smell than Dia but they both share the same powdery base which is reminiscent of Chanel No. 5. Between the two Amouage perfumes, I have a slight preference for Dia probably due to the presence of bergamot (and the absence of iris) but neither of them are "me" at all. They both seem heavy and rather formal. 3rd December, 2008. |
| | Bulgari Black by BulgariBulgari Black starts off with a warm, almost rice pudding note. It is a velvety fragrance and though it is apparently for men, I could easily imagine wearing it myself. As it dries down there is a very faint rubber/leather smell which I really only found by having read about those notes. If I hadn’t, I don’t know that I would have detected them as they are not dominant notes in the composition. The best way I can describe Bulgari Black is that it is a soft yet translucent, vanilla musk fragrance with a mild hint of coconut, cinnamon and powder. Which doesn’t do it a lot of justice as Bulgari Black really is much more stylish and modern than these words indicate. It also reminds me a good deal of a current favorite of mine – Le Labo Aldehyde 44. And finally, no question about it, that is one sexy little bottle! 21st November, 2008. |
| | Tubéreuse Criminelle by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal ShiseidoWell, if anyone has a hankering for the smelling like Grandma’s mothball stuffed hall closet, look no further because Serge Luten’s Tubereuse Criminelle is for you! I scrunched up my nose so hard when I smelled this – it was teeth-gnashingly revolting. Tubereuse Criminelle’s vaunted top note is a cross between mothballs and the bitterness you get when you take a swig of mentholated Dayquil. Yeah, yeah, a decent tubereuse smell eventually emerges but I just could not get past that nauseating mothball initial note. 18th November, 2008. |
| | Quand Vient La Pluie by GuerlainGuerlain’s Quand Vient la Pluie is yet another classic offering from Guerlain which showcases the super-sweet, vanilla-ish “Guerlainade” base to perfection. If you take that base and add black cherries and violets, that is what Quand Vient la Pluie smells like to me. I have to confess that I really don’t like this style of perfume and can’t imagine wearing it, however, for an incredibly sweet perfume, the notes are true and it seems to be of very high quality and well made. 14th November, 2008. |
| | Eclix by La PerlaLa Perla Eclix is a sweet, soft lemon fragrance which definitely belongs in the “foody perfume” cupboard. I agree somewhat with others who have likened it to lemon meringue pie but I also detect smidgens of flour and vanilla notes so I am going to say that Eclix smells more like a lemon angel food cake. I think if I wore this with any regularity, I would start craving sweets! However, Eclix is certain to please a gourmand perfume afficionado who enjoys citrus. I was a bit surprised to learn that Eclix had so many “official” notes (see below) as none of them were apparent to my nose. 14th November, 2008. |
| | Shaal Nur by EtroEtro’s Shaal Nur is a dark oriental fragrance whose semi-acrid top note reminded me of Estee Lauder’s style of perfume – Youth Dew in particular. I also caught fleeting whiffs of saffron and amber which petered out after about 10 minutes. As the middle notes of vanilla and incense crept in and softened things up, Shaal Nur became a much more likeable and wearable fragrance. My overall impression of Shaal Nur is that it has a cozy “frankincense and myrrh” vibe and is definitely a fragrance for colder weather. Despite the listed notes below, I cannot say that I detected any citrus, rose or narcissus at all but then I dabbed it on which seems to produce different results than spraying. 13rd November, 2008. |
| | Grapefruit by Jo MaloneJo Malone’s Grapefruit perfume starts off sharp-ish but then is toned down with white flowers so that it becomes a very tame, light fragance. The vetiver in the middle and base notes give it some warmth and depth and is probably why some reviewers characterize it as a masculine perfume. Jo Malone’s Grapefruit doesn’t have the zing that I adore in Aqua Allegoria’s Pamplelune or the cheerfully unabashed zestiness of Frederic Malle’s Bigarade Concentree, but Jo Malone’s Grapefruit is a competent scent that will likely appeal to a man or a woman who doesn’t want to smell overly “perfumey” but wants to smell “clean”. Ho hum. 13rd November, 2008. |
| | Eau de Rochas Homme by RochasEau de Rochas Pour Homme starts off a little sharp but in less than a minute, it opens up to become a lovely warm elegant men's fragrance. It is an elegant mix of citrus with dashes of cedar and vetiver. 6th November, 2008. |
| | Vetiver Dance by TauerI adore a good vetiver fragrance and was anxious to try Andy Tauer's interpretation. However, I found Vetiver Dance to be pretty disappointing. 23rd October, 2008. |
| | Les Elixirs Charnels - Chypre Fatal by GuerlainI had really hoped that Chypre Fatal might be the fragrance to counteract my cursed luck in finding a Guerlain to love. Alas, it was not to be. I am a huge fan of dry chypre perfumes (Chanel's 31 Rue Cambon, Hermes' Caleche, Piguet's Bandit and YSL's Y are some of my all-time favorites) and I especially adore Caleche's mossy, almost citrus/astringent quality. However, Guerlain's Chypre Fatal has that sweet-ish Guerlain base that I find so sugary and cloying that it really takes away the pleasure of smelling the chypre notes. As the fragrance settles down to its basenotes, it acquires a non-descript "perfumey" smell that is just kind of average, department-storeish, etc... Ho hum. If I am going to veer towards the land of sweet chypres, I would much prefer to do so in the competent arms of YSL Yvresse or Dior's Diorama. 22nd September, 2008. |
| | Enslaved by Roja DoveEnslaved is a heavy, one-dimensional perfume that smells chiefly like old fashioned ladies powder, ie. loose powder in a cylindrical container that comes with a luxurious white powder puff. I detected a tiny bit of spiciness in the fragrance which I guess was the carnation and clove trying to get out but, it was firmly "enslaved" by the unrelenting Mistress Powder! None of other notes listed below were detectable. For comparison purposes, Enslaved reminded me a lot of that other cloyingly robust powder fragrance, Etat Libre d'Orange's "Rien" (aka "Dorian Gray"). 22nd September, 2008. |
| | l'eau de parfum #3 green, green, green and green by Miller et BertauxMiller et Bertaux's "Green, Green, Green, Green's" top note smells just like the scent of a freshly broken branch of a young tree mixed with a generous helping of fresh coriander. It is quite bracing and almost too sharp to my nose. However, after about 5-10 minutes, lemon verbena and jasmine arrive to prune back the sharp green claws and then it evolves into a soft lemony floral fragrance which is clearly well made. I detected a slight hint of vetiver in the end but this fragrance dies pretty quickly so you really have to be on the lookout for it. 19th September, 2008. |
| | Embruns d'Essaouira by MontaleMontale’s Embruns d’Essouira is a refreshing marine/algae scent that I enjoyed very much. My first thought upon sniffing was thank goodness it was not another “faux beachy” scent, ie. another variation on the smell of Coppertone Sun Tan Lotion (Yoohoo- Bobbi Brown Beach, Philosophy!). In contrast, Embruns d’Essouira smells nearly exactly like the smell you experience when you are at the ocean sitting on the sand at the edge of the water, and the waves rush up around you tinged with green algae. It is also a much lighter style than I am used to seeing from Montale (another plus), and I thought it was pretty interesting and wearable. Finally, Embruns d’Essouira was good on me but I think it would really rock on a man! 9th September, 2008. |
| | Aqua Allegoria Herba-Fresca by GuerlainAcqua Allegoria's Herba Fresca is a soft minty fragrance that smells like freshly torn mint leaves if you subtract out any possible sharpness. As the fragrance mellows, hints of thyme, marjoram and grass come through but it is all handled in an extremely light way. If I really put my mind to it, I can smell the green tea and lemona verbena notes. It reminds me a lot Comme des Garcons' Peppermint perfume except that Herba Fresca is a tiny bit sweeter. In any event, Herba Fresca conjures up wonderful images of a summer evening on a stone terrace at a farmhouse deep in Provence surrounded by a lush herb garden. 9th September, 2008. |
| | Escentric 02 by Escentric MoleculesThe Escentric Molecules line has been responsible for one of the most exciting perfumes I've ever smelled (Escentric 01's smoky lime/pepper/cedar rush) and also one of the most frustrating (Molecule 01's faint, disappearing cedar water on skin). 2nd September, 2008. |
| | hb01 by Biehl ParfumkunstwerkeRemember that inexpensive super-pungent 80's fragrance, "Jungle Gardenia"? Well, one of the best niche perfume lines have produced a reinterpretation. I know that gardenia is not one of the listed notes but to my nose, biehl's hb01 is a dead-ringer for it. One sniff and I guarantee you"ll be transported back to the days of big hair, shoulder pads and lots of makeup. Hb 01 is a big jolt of gardenia with a tiny bit of spice (cumin, maybe?) in the top note. The middle/base notes are basically tuberose and other white flowers which turns hb 01 into a close cousin of Giorgio (loud, vulgar, obvious floral). 2nd September, 2008. |
| | Cardinal by HeeleyThe top note of Heeley's Cardinal perfume was an astringent dry, soap smell that rushed through my nose to the back to my throat. I truly felt like I was tasting soap. Cardinal was that pervasive (or should I say, invasive?) And I applied it sparingly! After about an hour, Cardinal calmed down to become an austere, powdery green fragrance that reminded me a great deal of Balmain's Ivoire. At around hour 3, Cardinal became became rather nice but I am much too impatient to wait that long for a fragrance to develop. 2nd September, 2008. |
| | Voleur de Ciels by Stéphanie de Saint-AignanI know others may love this but Voleur de Ciels smelled absolutely horrible on me. The topnote gave off awful wafts of cheapish amber and what smelled just like (I hate to say this but....) sweet-ish decaying, rotting flesh. Like the smell of a piece of raw meat that's been forgotten in the back of your refrigerator for 3-4 weeks. Oh dear, Voleur de Ciels was disgusting and I could not wash it off fast enough so I cannot tell you what the middle and basenote were like. Also, for some reason, Voleur de Ciels reminded me a lot of Neil Morris' Coral. 2nd September, 2008. |
| | Aki by Tann RokkaSimply put, Tan Rokka's Aki is the lovechild of Guerlain's L'Heure Bleu and Shalimar. Aki is a sweet-ish, predominantly amber/sandalwood fragrance with a great deal of powder and a smattering of spices. It is surprisingly strong so be sure to apply it sparingly as this is one of those perfumes that could easily end of "wearing you"! As compared to Aki, I much prefer Becker Eshaya's Golden Amber for amber, or 10 Corso Como or Diptyque's Tam Dao for sandalwood. 2nd September, 2008. |
| | Janca by Acqua di BiellaAcqua di Biella's Janca is a light fruity floral scent with dominant notes of peach and linden. Stylistically, it is very similar the floral perfumes offered by Annick Goutal such as Petite Cherie, Eau de Charlotte, etc.... It is not nearly as complex as the notes below would seem to suggest and I did not catch any iris - which is good since I don't care for its mustiness. Overall, I think that Janca could be a lovely casual fragrance to wear in the summertime as it wouldn't unduly amplify in the heat. Lastly, as is typical of this style of perfume, Janca does not have good sillage. It lasted about 45 minutes on my skin. 2nd September, 2008. |
| | Riding Crop by Demeter Fragrance LibraryDemeter is so good at creating ultra-realistic single note fragrances that it really makes it hard to write an interesting review about one of their perfumes. Riding Crop smells just like you'd expect it to- it is a warm, manly fragrance that smells just like a piece of new leather. Smelling it immediately conjured up thoughts of walking into a boutique that is piled high with all sorts of new leather equestrian goods. 2nd September, 2008. |
| | Valentino Gold by ValentinoI really did not see what the big deal was about Valentino Gold. It had an overall generic "sweet perfumey" smell that was utterly unremarkable. At the beginnning I think I may have caught a hint of mandarin but after that note quickly evaporated, Gold smelled like an average department store perfume. Even Fendi's Palazzo was more interesting than this! Methinks a certain Italian clothes designer sold his name (and reputation) to a giant beauty licensing firm for big bucks without caring what was produced.... 2nd September, 2008. |
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