Reviews by Kaern

    Kaern's avatar
    United Kingdom United Kingdom

    Showing 1 to 30 of 541.

    Monsieur by Huitième Art

    Woof! Hello Nursey!

    Ultra masculine -- think of a cranked up hybrid of Derby, Tuscany and vintage Givenchy and add some 'extreme' woods


    24th April, 2015


    Special for Gentlemen by Le Galion

    In the style of Jicky and MdM --a fusty, dusty men's fragrance with lavender and amber prominent throughout. For me, there is some note clashing and it strikes me as a little rough round the edges. It lasts a very long time and the drydown isn't half bad. When does 'vintage' become 'dated'?

    24th April, 2015


    Intense He Wood by Dsquared2

    Seems to me to be a completely superfluous flanker that doesn't really improve on the original or the other flankers.

    Maybe the word 'Intense' sells?

    I don't really like the violet notes used here , but the cedar and vetiver drydown is totally acceptable and wearable.

    Rather than the intense moniker given, it all seems a bit predictable and tame.

    15th April, 2015


    Eau de Cartier : Vétiver Bleu by Cartier

    Horrible blue liquid that smells of mint mouthwash.

    Not a patch on Roadster

    15th April, 2015


    Dunhill Icon by Dunhill

    The first 20-30 seconds of Icon are lovely -- a very nice bergamot.

    Then, for me, it all falls apart very badly. I am not sure what accord is causing this overriding smell of a rather sweet orangey bubblegum, but that is what I perceive. I actually can't detect any of the base notes listed.

    This is where Dunhill and I part company for good

    For pre-pubescent youths only.

    15th April, 2015


    Dior Homme Eau for Men by Christian Dior

    Apart from a hint of the original, this is your basic fresh summery citrus offering from Dior. The iris is muted imo.

    It's perfectly wearable and lasts a very long time, but it disappointly crashes into the unoriginal and predictable woody finish.

    It's a bit flat really, which isn't ideal for a summer scent and a little lazy.

    I will wear occasionally though

    07th April, 2015


    A*Men Pure Malt by Thierry Mugler

    I hate the smell of whisky -- Pure Malt does not smell of it.

    It does smell of malt , hops and wood though.

    If you can overlook the ridiculous claims (fermented in oak casks?) and horrific bottle / spray mechanism -- what you have is one of the 'best bangs for the buck' fragrance ever.

    30th March, 2015


    Brutus by Orto Parisi

    Yes -- not a normal type 'Nasomatto' unlike Boccanera from the same line.

    You'd thing 'Brutus' would be an out and out 'masculine' but it's really quite sweet and restrained. Deadidol has listed a lot of notes that I don't detect at all -- cumin? patchouli? -- what I do get is a 'tropical' fruity type orange blossom with a sweet musky finish. However, there is something unidentifiably woody in the base which keeps it very non-fem.

    I like it very much, with one caveat -- it doesn't smell as expensive as it actually costs.

    30th March, 2015


    Flower of Immortality by By Kilian

    Very cheap smelling floral/peachy thing made for 12 year old girls?

    You would be better off (literally) checking out some celebrity florals at a fifth of the price.

    Check out Keiko Mercheri's version of peach to see how it should be done

    25th February, 2015


    Vétiver Fatal by Atelier Cologne

    Well -- I'm a sucker for plum and I could detect it straight away.

    The fragrance is basically a fruity wood, but it has a 'freshness' that appeals to me -- that clean/sweet sort of way vetiver is done by Lubin and others rather than the bitter green version of Tauer, etc.

    I like it a lot but I can understand 'vetiver' lovers shying away.

    24th February, 2015


    Cuir Venenum 03 by Parfumerie Generale

    A resemblance to Nostalgia? It has facets but I prefer to wear the SMN.

    This has more going on though except for the outrageous opening of Nostalgia.

    Myrrh and leather are the main players here together with a slightly skanky note -- it might be the urinous aspect of honey.

    I like it very much and worth having for leather lovers imo.

    23rd February, 2015


    The Dark Heart of Old Havana by 4160 Tuesdays

    Maaaan -- this is good stuff.

    Sarah Macartney apparently tried to get a verisimilitude of the Havana streets after dark and after partying.

    The booze, stale cigar smoke, rotting fruit in the gutters and coffee and a general sweet putridness.

    Sounds pretty disgusting, but is actually quite gorgeous to wear.

    You need to check this out imo.

    23rd February, 2015


    True Lust - Rayon Violet de Ses Yeux by Etat Libre d'Orange

    Fantastic opening -- it plain fizzes and jumps off the skin in a glorious melange of florals and booze. Lily of the Valley tends to dominate until the sweet, leathery pay off.

    I don't think I will be wearing in public but good luck to men who don't worry about such things like fragrance genders.

    Will be amazing on a woman!

    23rd February, 2015


    Cruel Intentions by By Kilian

    I can't really find sufficient words to describe this.

    If you can get over the truly horrible opening you'll be doing really well imo.

    After that -- well -- it's just a mess of wrong turns. Thin and reedy with it also.

    23rd February, 2015


    Sybarite by Cloon Keen Atelier

    The phrase 'under the radar' was made for this beauty.

    Opens with Incense and orange and you won't find topnotes like that very often. Very striking.

    Heavenly heart of jasmine and rose. but oddly retains it's unisex or even masculine categorisation because of the dominant 'woody' aspect.

    This is a 'sandalwood' fragrance. A sweet skein of the wood runs right through this, enhanced by musk and cedar in the base.

    Goes straight into my top 5 sandalwood fragrances of all time

    23rd February, 2015


    Incense Rosé by Tauer

    A drier more vibrant version of Amouage's Lyric. It reminds me of early Mark Buxton creations -- totally honest and transparent. I prefer the rose amped down as it is here, with the myrrh and incense cranked up.

    Tauer's back catalogue really does contain some awesome creations.

    13th January, 2015


    Sucre d’Ebène by Huitième Art

    Totally disagree with the only other reviewer.

    Not about this being uber sweet, which it is, but the cloying, rotting comparison.

    I find it a rather beautiful sweetness and very easy to live with.

    The first few hours actually remind me of a 'masculine' version of those women's power fragrances prevalent in the eighties. Odd but true. An amazing juice for sure.

    13th January, 2015


    Wode by Boudicca

    Has this been reformulated? Smells about as 'feminine' as Bandit but not as good.

    Plastic leather sounds about right here -- also dry and musty with a touch of the orient floating about.

    It works ok and lasts for ages -- not very expensive either. A little strange though.

    08th December, 2014


    1499 by S-Perfume

    I am so into Myrrh at the moment and 1499 contains a nice slug. However, according to the blurb, this is an exercise in Sambac.

    The notes might suggest a 'feminine' and the amber and vanilla accord is a pretty sweet one. Amazingly the dusty type jasmine, myrrh and incense pull it right back.

    One of the most lovely smells I have experienced all year.

    08th December, 2014


    S-ex by S-Perfume

    But is it Art?

    The first thing that crossed this Japanese outfit's mind when creating their first fragrance was to reproduce a verisimilitude of a seminal fluid note (as you do).

    The whole effect was to be likened to the freshly lathered genitalia of a wild animal.

    But we have a sort of fresh salted leather with a sweet woody musk on top.

    I think it's great

    08th December, 2014


    Angelique Noire by Guerlain

    I agree with half of Luca Turins' review of this fragrance. The opening is a rather 'bitter floral' -- sort of harsh and green. He then derides the drydown as 'bland' and not Guerlain worthy.

    Well the drydown reminds me of a gorgeous expensive vanilla infused soap that goes on forever. Lovely sexy wafts all round.

    Totally unisex imo and I prefer it to SDV.

    27th October, 2014


    Les Déserts d'Orient - Songe d'un Bois d'Été by Guerlain

    I don't get any oud at all. I get quite a bit of pepper up top -- must be the mixture of the laurel and saffron.

    In fact I would wade through any amount of perceived 'skank' to reach the amazing sensual drydown of leather and myrhh that this fragrance is all about.

    Niche at it's very best.

    27th October, 2014


    Opus IV by Amouage

    Unless you have a nose similar to a spectroscope, I would forget about most of the notes listed as this is all about cardamom and incense all held together by a rather dry musk. This accord combines to give off lovely wafts of ginger and pepper -- it's a bit of a spicebomb, but smells rich and distinctive. Definitely a cool weather scent imo. A bit of a nose-tickler, but very nice.

    Apparently half of the profits from this fragrance are used to promote HIV/AIDS awareness in Oman.

    07th October, 2014


    La Fumée Maroc by Miller Harris

    The least 'souk' like of the three fragrances imo.

    Very fruity opening which melds into nice woody phase -- the rose isn't very prominent though.

    The overriding impression is of smoke and incense and for those who like this accord -- you will love this. For me, Maroc has a slightly bitter feel to the drydown.

    Nevertheless, a worthy flanker to the already nice La Fumee. Stupidly priced.

    06th October, 2014


    Cozumel by Laboratorio Olfattivo

    LO seems to be a House that showcases up and coming perfumers -- I noticed one by Pierre Guilliame but wasn't that keen.

    Cozumel was my favourite, probably becuse of the very distinctive herby opening.

    The drydown is long lasting and there is something mixing with the tonka beans that gives out a sort of coconutty aura. The incense and tobacco are muted imo.

    Definitely unisex and a very pleasant wear.

    09th September, 2014


    Replica Jazz Club by Martin Margiela

    This series is all about 'impressionism' I think, i.e. a snapshot of a moment portrayed in a fragrance.

    So we have 'heady cocktails and cigars' for the first 'masculine' from this House.

    It works like a dream and a smokey , boozy, late night club springs to mind from almost the beginning. The rum, tobacco and vanilla accord is gorgeous.

    Very well made imo and relatively cheap to boot.

    08th September, 2014


    Uomo by Valentino

    Gives 'gourmands' a bad name. Too sweet and 'perfumey'

    I find the whole fragrance to be a fake and very unoriginal.

    But hey, it's all relative in 'designer' world.

    08th September, 2014


    Santal de Mysore by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Beautiful thick resinous spicy honeyed take on sandalwood. Majuscule is the more 'bubbly' sibling to it's more serious father.

    Wear once a week during the winter to appreciate it over and over again.

    08th September, 2014


    Solaris by Agonist

    A striking melange of citrus notes rub together with galbanuum, ginger and peppers to create an exploding sun in the dying embers of summer.

    Aquatic notes and Iso E ? Maybe a hint of the former but any woody amber is very muted imo.

    A 'meta' citrus to warm the cockles of your heart.

    08th September, 2014


    Esencia Loewe by Loewe

    Pine, basil, oakmoss, leather, lots of green.

    It is just like stepping back 40 years to the stonking masculines prevalent then. Shirt collars so wide, you could quite possibly take off with a strong gust of wind.

    Gorgeous smooth drydown sets it apart.

    20th August, 2014

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Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000