Fragrance Reviews
Fragrance Reviews by Kaern
Showing all 267 reviews
Grey Flannel by Geoffrey Beene
Man -- this has been around for years -- only ok for me -- smells a bit passe, especially towards the end with the oakmoss overdose. I know lots of people who still really rate this, including women (maybe that's why I'm not bowled over -- need to see a shrink).
04 November 2009
Bois de Cédrat by Creed
A truly beautiful cedrat topped woody scent that hints of better times and values. Wear this and feel wonderful.
04 November 2009
Bel Ami by Hermès
Has Hermes ever produced anything better than this in the last 25 years -- a moot point imo. There are no shocks for me here -- a lovely rich leather mixed with spices ending in a glorious vetiver mix. Hermes have now packaged all their perfumes in rather clunky and ugly bottles -- the only individuality left is in the scents themselves.
04 November 2009
Bal Musqué by Nez à Nez
Holy Moly -- we have some serious musk action going on here and not just the oft used White Musk -- Bal is thick with them. With liqourice and black vanilla as steadiers, we are in a sensual heaven. Bal Musque is so gorgeous it hurts. A potent sex bomb -- be careful out there.
04 November 2009
Andy Warhol Success is a Job in New York by Bond No. 9
Success is a job.. is a return to form for this House, and is totally dominated by the Rose and superb vanilla notes. The spicy top notes last nanoseconds only. This is totally gorgeous and deserves a big thumbs up. However, I think the House is being very optimistic in classifying it as unisex as it is ultra sweet and powdery -- I won't be wearing it.
04 November 2009
L'Essence de Déclaration by Cartier
I can't knock this fragrance on its construction and blending, but like it's older brother, I just don't like the scent. It's difficult to explain, but is seems overly synthetic, cold and empty.
04 November 2009
Tom Ford Extreme by Tom Ford
A totally different scent from the original, which I hated, this is full of spices and woods and I love the smell of the truffle and leather. The longevity is fine with me. Will I purchase at this price? Probably not.
04 November 2009
Scent 79 for Men by Jil Sander
Mark Buxton is hot at the moment and Scent 79 is one of the reasons he has gone on to present his own new range. I tested this a long while ago and loved immediately, but thought it had longevity issues so passed it up. But not for long -- this beautiful chypre is straight into rotation and I spray accordingly regarding keeping it going. An eighties feel, but refined and gloriously blended.
04 November 2009
A Taste of Heaven by By Kilian
New Haarlem is all about coffee -- when deconstructed this is all about lavender and seems to be the main player here. It's a nice viscous one though, but the note isn't my favourite, however it is presented -- I prefer it buried.
04 November 2009
Beyond Love by By Kilian
Most tuberose fragrances are quite feminine as it is a sweet flower, but Beyond Love has a slightly earthier green aura to it, which makes it very acceptable for me. It also has a tropical feel to it and must be the inclusion of the coconut -- well the flower is Mexican, so sub at least. Really nice.
04 November 2009
Nostalgia by Santa Maria Novella
The adviser in SMN said that they can't understand why people would want to spray this on themselves. Now, I'm all for honesty in life but I think the sales pitch needs honing a bit.
It's so uplifting to sample something like this straight after reviewing Green Irish Tweed (so much negativity). The opening is pretty drastic -- mechanics overalls no less, but it soon changes into a glorious leathery drydown with a touch of sweetness thrown in -- yeah it's synthetic, but what isn't nowadays -- (look out for the newly created 'vinyl' notes appearing in fragrances). The sillage and longevity are ok, but it is a little shy late on -- that's pretty much a given with the whole range, so will need to spray accordingly. I have no need for Nostalgia at the moment as Mark Buxton's sublime 'Hot Leather' is in rotation, but I will return for this when that dries up.
It's so uplifting to sample something like this straight after reviewing Green Irish Tweed (so much negativity). The opening is pretty drastic -- mechanics overalls no less, but it soon changes into a glorious leathery drydown with a touch of sweetness thrown in -- yeah it's synthetic, but what isn't nowadays -- (look out for the newly created 'vinyl' notes appearing in fragrances). The sillage and longevity are ok, but it is a little shy late on -- that's pretty much a given with the whole range, so will need to spray accordingly. I have no need for Nostalgia at the moment as Mark Buxton's sublime 'Hot Leather' is in rotation, but I will return for this when that dries up.
14 October 2009
Green Irish Tweed by Creed
I have alluded to this fragrance before in other reviews, but never actually reviewed it per se. This ships shedloads for Creed so won't have any effect anyway. The progression and blending of the notes is brilliant in GIT --- a lot of thought and effort has gone into this and it is an ultra smooth ride. The problem for me is that I just don't like the scent. GIT has a ubiquitous smell, which shouts 'I am a bloke - back off'. You know, that fresh green masculine one with a woody finish (yawn). When I smell it or others like it (too many to mention), I always expect to turn round and see either a prominent hairy chest with a ridiculous medallion swinging from it or a suited and booted money market dealer whose raison d'etre seems to consist of being as obnoxious as possible to as many people as possible. GIT smells of money, but with no style or taste.
14 October 2009
Number 3 / Le 3me Homme / The Third Man by Caron
The best male fragrance from Caron in my opinion. 'Pour un Homme' is a pretty much straightforward lavender (not my cup of tea), Yatagan (way too harsh for me) and L'Anarchiste (alright if you like a mixture of blood oranges and copper -- a bit weird). The lavender is strong in the top of the Third Man, but bearable -- the floral middle is ok, but not exactly subtle -- in fact the whole fragrance is a bit pushy. No, really I could bypass the first 3 or 4 hours quite happily. The drydown is where it's at and the metamorphosis is quite astonishing -- it's like a different scent. All the basenotes combine to produce a drydown that is breathtaking and flawless in it's beauty.
07 October 2009
Patchoulissime by Keiko Mecheri
I love this fragrance as I'm not a great fan of full on patchouli. If you give a couple of coats or spray liberally it's not that mild . It is also one of the better lasters from Keiko Mercheri and I get a full day easily. Patchoulissime is exquisite as it is.
07 October 2009
Bal d'Afrique by Byredo
I am completely baffled by Bal d'Afrique's gender classification. This is a beautifully blended unisex fragrance -- the amber and cedar seem to combine to produce an almost nutty smell, which reminds me of Hermes Vetiver Tonka -- most odd. A daring mixture of notes that work wonderfully. Expensive, but worth it.
07 October 2009
Acqua di Genova Colonia by Acqua di Genova
I'm a bit confused -- there seems to be 2 versions of this -- one in tribute of 150 years of the original. I purchased the tribute version, which is a more subdued take on the vibrant lemony classic original, being more concentrated on neroli and wood notes and more suited to Autumn.. It reminds me very much of Hermes Concentree Orange Verte, but is slightly more complex. Anyway, both versions are magnificent.
07 October 2009
Paul Smith Man by Paul Smith
I could hardly smell anything -- this is minimalism taken to the nth degree. I think maybe the incense note kills everything else off or my nose needed some coffee beans. I may have to re-test, but probably won't.
07 October 2009
Hot Water by Davidoff
Tepid more like. This is meant to be a spicy oriental, but fails miserably. I tested on a blotter and zoned out a nanosecond later. Rubbish.
07 October 2009
Cadjmere 18 by Parfumerie Generale
A creamy warm chypre that is aromatic and resinous. Spray some on a cashmere scarf in the dead of winter. I think some of the notes battle a bit and it isn't as smooth as it could be, but it's very nice and lasts all day.
07 October 2009
Live Forever by Ben Sherman
I like to sample all ends of the perfume spectrum -- this baby came in at under £10 for 50ml. As you can probably guess, it is not the most complex of fragrances -- there is some Rose and Jasmine notes at the top, but it quickly steeples into a pretty generic amber and wood base with just hints of the florals. It reminds me a lot of Michael Kors for Men, but it is actually more refined than that brute. It's saving grace is the elongated drydown, which is not unpleasant. Value for money wise, it is tremendous and suffice to say it knocks spots off any full-price Hugo Boss male fragrance (quite a low benchmark, I know). To be fair, I will never wear this out, but it isn't a dog and some care has gone into the note blending. I admire it very much.
07 October 2009
Straight to Heaven by By Kilian
Heady, rich and boozy, but basically ends up as a deep patchouli and wood fragrance. It's very nice, but is not unique by a long way. If you already have Nasomatto's Duro or Black Afghan, CDG's Luxe or even Tom Ford's Oud Wood, there is no reason to purchase this as well.
07 October 2009
Geranium pour Monsieur by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle
I'm afraid I think the mint in this is about as subtle as a breezeblock -- whack, it's there and for a long time as well. The mint note is also quite astringent and medicinal imo and not to my liking. Some green then manages to struggle through and soften it out, but not enough for me to take to this. I suggest IO by Carthusia as a cheaper and nicer mint alternative.
Edit -- 26 August
I am no botanist but as far as I know, the geranium flower has no smell -- but the leaves have a glorious lemony smell when rubbed, which isn't represented here-- what a missed opportunity. It is basically a mint fragrance and I still don't like it.
Edit -- 26 August
I am no botanist but as far as I know, the geranium flower has no smell -- but the leaves have a glorious lemony smell when rubbed, which isn't represented here-- what a missed opportunity. It is basically a mint fragrance and I still don't like it.
26 August 2009
L'Heure Bleue by Guerlain
An old woman sobbing softly in church with motes of dust twinkling in sun rays swirling around her. Some oranges and flowers decaying slowly rest in a bag on her lap. A mustiness pervades the air. The old lady finds it hard to move on.
26 August 2009
Monocle Scent One: Hinoki by Comme des Garçons
A very austere and stripped down fragrance -- a totally turbo charged cedarwood that comes across as medicinal and a touch boring in its simplicity. I don't dislike the smell, but for what it is there are much cheaper alternatives, especially amongst the CDG incense range. I also noticed that the longevity wasn't great. Not worth the money.
26 August 2009
Emporio Armani Diamonds for Men by Giorgio Armani
I'm not sure what happened to my original review of this -- it may have been pulled because of the comments I made about Luca's book -- the point being that ok, he is a recognised and respected nose, but in the end, apart from some technical aspects, it is all just so subjective -- like saying blue is a better colour than yellow. I mean, witness the thumbs up on the board for this fragrance, whereas everything I personally hate about male fragrances lies in Diamonds.
26 August 2009
Lanvin L'Homme Sport by Lanvin
Approached this scent with the dreaded 'Sport' suffix, quite preparing to gag, but I really liked the opening notes (am a sucker for pepper) and had a bit of a shock -- well it is a Lanvin. The drydown isn't half bad either, but nothing fantastic. I find this to be more formal than 'sporty' and I wouldn't mind wearing occasionally, if I ever purchased.
18 August 2009
Lauder for Men by Estée Lauder
Along with Versace L'Homme, Lauder for Men is probably the only other acceptable men's fragrance that came out of the eighties (that weren't for yuppies anyway). It's a sparkling exhilarating fragrance and is expertly mixed. Get the oakmoss at the bottom -- I think all 80's mens fragrances had it. It's sort of like Knize Forest Light, but I think I like this better. The only shop I know that stocks this is Harrods in London.
18 August 2009
Acqua di Cuba by Santa Maria Novella
A 'game of two halves' here. The opening is a really authentic scent of a just made cigar and is dry and strong -- I was smitten. About an hour later though, it turns rather acrid and sour and I have to admit smells like pee. I was lucky I had it on a card. A real shame.
18 August 2009
Tobacco by Santa Maria Novella
This is called Tabacco Toscano and is a lovely almost wet deep tobacco scent. It has a really nice elongated sweetish drydown and lasts well for a cologne. Some class here.
18 August 2009
1969 Parfum de Révolte by Histoire de Parfums
A bouquet of sexiness. Gorgeous fruits to open with, moving into rose and cardamon and ending with a spectacular white musk with hints of coffee and patchouli. The sillage is great and it lasts and lasts. Truly amazing stuff and a major turn on.
18 August 2009
Oud Wood by Tom Ford
What does this translate to then? Wood Wood? Woody Wood?
Woody Woodpecker? It's a big deep wood though and smells pretty good. Reminds me a lot of the CDG woods though, -- Palisander, Sequoia (but a bit richer) and they are half the price, so won't be investing.
PS. The whole range has been upped in price by 10%. Good on you, Tom
Woody Woodpecker? It's a big deep wood though and smells pretty good. Reminds me a lot of the CDG woods though, -- Palisander, Sequoia (but a bit richer) and they are half the price, so won't be investing.
PS. The whole range has been upped in price by 10%. Good on you, Tom
18 August 2009
Champaca Absolute by Tom Ford
It's very nice, it's very floral and very feminine though. Too much so for me -- wrongly categorised in my opinion.
18 August 2009
Japon Noir by Tom Ford
I don't get the name at all, but I do like the scent -- it reminds me also somewhat of DIA for Men -- there is definitely something fruity happening amongst the rather incensey spices. Longevity is outstanding on me -- sillage is ok. Some rather nice surprises in the drydown.
18 August 2009
Vetyver by Jo Malone
This is a really true rendition of vetiver in my opinion, which makes a change. The vetiver is surrounded by some subtle spices that never swamp the note. A joy to wear.
PS. JM have a new fragrance coming out in September called Anise and Vanilla and is really lovely.
PS. JM have a new fragrance coming out in September called Anise and Vanilla and is really lovely.
18 August 2009
F pour Homme by Salvatore Ferragamo
This is one of those fragrances that others seem to like on me more than me. It has a fresh, fruity opening, which is so-so, but the spicy drydown is actually quite nice. I'm afraid F has that generic note going on throughout though, which makes it a bit crude (too much ethyl) and I can't see myself wearing it much. Not bad for a mainstream scent though.
18 August 2009
Hot Leather by Mark Buxton
A gorgeous light creamy leather fragrance that is my favourite from the range, athough Black Angel is a killer as well. Really deep leather fragrances are not really me I've learnt, so this fits the bill perfectly. A sparkling spicy opening moves into a short Iris (bearable) and sweet Jasmine phase, but the wonderful patchouli, woods and leather are beginning to pervade now -- they are so nicely blended with a touch of sweetness from the vanilla (or maybe tonka bean) burrowing in. There is no actual leather note listed so double kudos to Mark Buxton for this rendition. Very pricy, but very worth it.
30 July 2009
Hamptons by Bond No. 9
Does nothing for me and get the SMW connection in the top notes, which is the best part of this fragrance, although I would never invest in SMW. It's the middle notes that are bad though -- it really is an unpleasant jasmine, quite a dirty sweetness that turns me over -- I swear I get a bit of 'The Dreamer' in there also. The base notes are standard fare and nothing to shout about. The Bond No 9 range have a low success rate with me -- only 3 really stand out as investments.
30 March 2009
Nuits de NoHo by Bond No. 9
Cripes! -- I thought this was unisex at least, bordering on the masculine side. I call it 'Pineapple Noir'. It definitely gives off a darkish ambery vibe in the drydown, almost resinous (must be the patchouli). The pineapple sticks around all through the phases on me and mixes brilliantly with the other notes. Longevity and sillage are very good and I love it to bits.
27 March 2009
Chez Bond by Bond No. 9
You have to admit that this is a straight rip of Green Irish Tweed, I hate GIT so I hate this a little bit more for it's laziness.
27 March 2009
Aqua Allegoria Herba-Fresca by Guerlain
I really like Herba-Fresca so took it Greek Island hopping last summer -- sturdy bottle , fresh green fragrance, not expensive -- ideal. Trouble is, it's no more than a spritz really -- lasted for 2 hours tops. It may have been the heat down there, I suppose, but it barely lasted an evening, so ended up supplementing with Burberry Weekend, which I found in one of the capitals -- thought it might be a moody version at first (no cellophane wrap), but it wasn't and was certainly more robust. I really also like the Figue-Iris and Grapefruit in this range, but are they gonna stay around all day?
20 March 2009
Nuit de Cellophane by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido
Sorry, but I almost passed out at first sniff, such was the overwhelming feminine sweetness surrounding the fruits. I can't imagine who this is aimed at really..............blimey the florals are even worse. This is a real dog and the name is a disaster also.
21 July 2009
Riverside Drive by Bond No. 9
The fruit is kicked into touch by the basil and the violet is weak, it then turns green and woody with just a scintilla of florals in the background. So in the end what you have left is a pretty run of the mill masculine fragrance where references to others in the genre are too numerous to mention. I mean it's not horrible or anything -- just tedious, unexciting, safe and square. Fine for corporate events though.
18 March 2009
Blu Mediterraneo Sicilian Almond / Mandorlo di Sicilia by Acqua di Parma
Oh my -- this is terrific stuff -- the almonds and the orange mix gorgeously. The vanilla just enhances the main two players imo. Yeh, yeh it's sweet -- I wasn't expecting burnt tar though. Even so, if you spray really liberally it can be a bit sick inducing for the first hour. A warm, comforting and sexy scent -- how's that for £30.
21 July 2009
Citrus Paradisi by Czech & Speake
This transcends any ideas of a bright happy summery citrus based scent -- this is a deep, serious take on the genre, which is utterly sexy and completely brilliant. I know of EDP's that fade quicker than this and the sillage is wondrous. John Stephen is a genius and shows what is achievable in perfumery with a few basic notes.
21 July 2009
Un Bois Vanille by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido
The opening has that woody, smoky note that is almost a Lutens/Sheldrake staple now, but it disappears too quickly and we are left with a straight up vanilla, albeit a superior one. It reminds me a lot of L'Artisan's Vanilia, once the fire has damped down. Definitely unisex.
21 July 2009
Delicious Closet Queen by Etat Libre d'Orange
Not sure about the name --- sounds repressive, but the fragrance is nice -- I'm a sucker for non citrus fruit and berries in fragrances anyway -- turns a bit powdery but is bearable and suits warmth. Lasts for aeons.
21 July 2009
Divin'enfant by Etat Libre d'Orange
The great switcheroo. Starts off with a lovely neroli and rose mixture and gradually turns into a screaming sweet leather monster. Antoine Lie is an alchemist. Not sure about the finish here -- I wish it had gone in another direction really.
21 July 2009
Lyric Man by Amouage
Really amazing fragrance -- I wasn't sure when the rose note kicked in, but it's shot through with some gorgeous non citrus fruit and berries, which takes it to another level. Lyric is very lush, rich and syrupy with an astonishing drydown. I love Paestum Rose and Rossy de Palma, but never purchased -- I had no hesitation here.
21 July 2009
H.O.T. Always by Bond No. 9
Wore this ages ago beacuse I just loved the very strong spicy opening and the floral mix really worked. I purchased on this basis, but may not have if I'd worn all day as the drydown is relatively poor -- the usual woody one (can't remember any leather) -- if it wasn't for the cinnamon valiantly hanging on, it would have been a total blowout. It is the lovely spice notes that propel this though and imo HA is one of the best of a pretty nondescript and vastly overpriced and overhyped range.
16 March 2009
Reflection Man by Amouage
Really loved the top and middle notes and for 20 minutes, was sure to purchase-- but then it turned into a really generic beast with plenty of powder to the fore. No can do.
21 July 2009
Arcus by Amouage
More like a nimbus cloud without the cumulo. Totally boring and dull 'green' fragrance that smells very synthetic. Even selling at half price as was the case couldn't tempt me.
21 July 2009
Night Scented Stock by Penhaligon's
Damn -- this is gorgeous -- the top notes fly by and the beautiful middle takes over, especially the ylang ylang, seguing seamlessly to a gorgeous base. I kept being told the fragrance was 'unisex', but I had my doubts and I think the feminine classification is right. Sillage and longevity are outstanding. I may buy as a present and secretly spray.
21 July 2009
Nasomatto China White by Nasomatto
Sort of floral woody and smoky -- China White is really lovely, but there was something nagging about it and it took me a time to identify that it is very similar to Corso di Como (go compare),so a neutral only.
Had the brand new 'Black Afghan' from Nasomatto shoved under my nose -- this is something else -- deep, dense, dark, eastern -- a must buy later.
Had the brand new 'Black Afghan' from Nasomatto shoved under my nose -- this is something else -- deep, dense, dark, eastern -- a must buy later.
21 July 2009
Pulp by Byredo
An apt name -- it actually smells like the pulp of various fruits straight out of a blender -- a fragrance smoothie and totally wonderful.
Stop Press:
Look out for a range of six fragrances from Mark Buxton -- 5 of them are terrific, but £110 each.
New Byredo fragrance called 'Blanche' -- you think it smells of nothing but takes off once it hits the skin.
New fragrance from the funsters at Comme Des Garcons -- its working title is 'God Save the Queen' and the bottle is rumoured to be in the shape of a cup and saucer -- the fragrance itself is reported to be brilliant.
Stop Press:
Look out for a range of six fragrances from Mark Buxton -- 5 of them are terrific, but £110 each.
New Byredo fragrance called 'Blanche' -- you think it smells of nothing but takes off once it hits the skin.
New fragrance from the funsters at Comme Des Garcons -- its working title is 'God Save the Queen' and the bottle is rumoured to be in the shape of a cup and saucer -- the fragrance itself is reported to be brilliant.
21 July 2009
Chergui by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido
Sometimes words won't do. Words get taken into a backroom and are beaten, punched and stamped into dust. Obscenely beautiful.
21 July 2009
Gypsy Water by Byredo
Hyped up new rebel type perfumer. Top notes are gone in a flash -- what a waste using juniper so early. It's then basically a vanilla fragrance with the ever present sandalwood holding it up (not really pushing the boundaries here). It's not unpleasant, but the sillage is abysmal -- I mean for 80 odd pounds (a rip) I would expect to smell it occasionally. Would probably suit a woman better -- I don't think it's unisex anyway. It should have been called Vanille Light, but hey Gypsy Water sounds cool.
13 March 2009
Alamut by Lorenzo Villoresi
A very flowery yet smokey opening, heavy on the rose, which bottoms out with some pretty nice spices and musk. Don't really get any wood notes to speak of. It sounds pretty unisex, but I think the feminine classification is correct. From a House whose fragrances I find pretty hard to warm to (or even understand sometimes), Alamut is nice, but not for me.
12 March 2009
parfums*PARFUMS Luxe: Patchouli by Comme des Garçons
What a fantastic opening -- I almost fainted -- thick and resinous patchouli, woods and opoponax assault your senses - point blank! I think this must be some special type of patchouli as I haven't experienced anything like it before -- I mean AG's Sables version is practically unwearable. I also don't get any chocolate either -- what you do get apart from the patchouli is a lot of luscious and slightly smoke tinged woods, mainly oak, cedar and sandalwood touched with CDG's nearly ever present spicy peppers and vanilla to quite it. She ain't pretty though -- this is a really dark scent. Sillage and longevity are both superb. The price is outrageous, but 'what's mine is mine'. Where do you go from here though?
10 March 2009
1881 by Cerruti
A trip down memory lane for me. I used to wear this quite a lot when it was first released, but I'm afraid to me it has dated quite badly. I think 1881 is a sort of 'zeitgeist' fragrance and just doesn't feel right now. A really lovely opening though, if a bit aggresive, and has a nice elongated woody drydown. A thumbs up for the pleasure it gave me 20 years ago, but a neutral for 2009.
09 March 2009
Dunhill Black by Alfred Dunhill
Can Dunhill ever climb back up the slippery slope they are falling down with their fragrances? Not with this one I fear. I thought 'London' might shake them to their senses -- it was so horrid, but hey maybe it sold well? Firstly, there is nothing 'black' about this. It has a green, oh so familiar opening, the supposed lavender is non-existent and the jasmine was of the dirty kind and not well executed -- not a good combination in my book anyway. It does get a bit leathery very late on, but again it's not really worth the wait. Dunhill have thrown their lot in with the populist male fragrance mass creations and can't be taken seriously anymore as far as fragrances go.
09 March 2009
Gaultier² by Jean Paul Gaultier
Too much too soon and about as subtle as a brick. I felt my teeth coming loose when I tested this -- way too sweet. Too restrictive also, I could only imagine a young woman in the deep of winter possibly wearing this or maybe Mr Humphreys in Menswear. I quite liked JPG1, but this is just too camp.
04 March 2009
Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent
Blimey, are people still buying this? I think I received a bottle of this as a present about 25 years ago and even then I thought it was ok and a bit dirty/musky, but that there must be better out there. I think Kouros may have sparked my interest in different scent notes and was a bit better than other fragrances I had been given and for that reason alone I won't thumbs down. Times change, tastes evolve -- I couldn't wear it now. It would be like slapping a kipper tie on and growing a mustache.
04 March 2009
Burberry the Beat for Men by Burberry
Well at least the pepper covers the violet. Actually 'The Beat' isn't that bad a fragrance if you are looking for a fresh, woody and peppery vibe -- I like peppers in fragrances (you will have to to). Burberry are one of the best mainstream designer fragrance houses imo and produce much more interesting fragrances than all the others at the moment -- I mean you get what you pay for is the maxim with them. 'The Beat' isn't their best and I won't be purchasing as it is a bit too 'young' for me, but I've smelt a whole lot worse.
30 June 2009
Touch for Men by Burberry
The violet note in the top is quite weak and overwhelmed by the citrus, otherwise I would have hated this, but in fact it's pretty good and the whole fragrance is blended tastefully. Touch isn't an epiphany or anything and I don't think I'll purchase, but it's kinda nice to know an inoffensive, well made, nice smelling mainstream male frag is out there anyway.
30 June 2009
Paul Smith Sunshine Edition for Men by Paul Smith
Heatwave in Britain ---- aaarrgghh over 30 degrees for 3 days - we are all doomed!. Tested some mainstream summer orientated frags and I liked this the best and may purchase. The grapefruit note is really nice in Sunshine Edition and mixes with the spices gloriously -- the mossy woody drydown is so-so, but hey I suspect this isn't very expensive and that grapefruit really kicks. Can't really remember the others too well as they were so underwhelming, Eternity Summer?( has a sour note), CK Summer (fresh but a bit bland) , Kenzo Summer? (not bad, but fleeting) Hugo Boss(don't ask -- will not review any of the range on principal) -- I was just grazing really while girly shopping was being done. To recap -- a lovely refreshing, uncomplicated and inexpensive summer fragrance from Paul Smith.
30 June 2009
Lacoste pour Homme by Lacoste
This is offensive to the physical, moral and aesthetic senses -- in a word - disgusting. I wouldn't even wear it for a bet.
23 June 2009
Le Baiser du Dragon by Cartier
Another Cartier fragrance I like -- what's going on? I think I like this because it's a complete mess structurally, but it works. I'm thinking that some of middle notes should be in the bottom or at the top, some of the bottom notes should be in the middle, etc and I could do without that rotten iris. The patchouli and amber notes are really nice at the bottom -- I actually find the middle to be quite feminine not the almondy top. Anyway, it's confusing, but lovely (don't over-analyse)
23 June 2009
Must de Cartier pour Homme by Cartier
I was given L'Essence de Must some time ago and pretty much hated -- too cloying and sickly for me, so never thought of testing the original. I like it very much, the top notes are wonderful, I wish they'd stick around a bit longer though as the sandalwood and tonka drydown doesn't live up to them. Still I would wear happily (maybe not in the summer). One of the nicer Cartiers.
23 June 2009
Michael for Men by Michael Kors
Big, boozy, masculine fragrance with bullying sillage and longevity -- there is no subtlety or class here -- it just smacks you one. I like a lot of the notes that are used here normally, but they are all turbocharged and blended quite badly, so the smell utlimately turns me off.
23 June 2009
Knize Forest by Knize
Green, woody, soapy, fresh -- reminds me a bit of Creed's Vetiver on steroids. Only one caveat -- it evokes the 1970's (must be all the moss), the bottle design and font also take me back to that era -- looks cheap, but isn't. Sillage and longevity are both outstanding.
23 June 2009
Fantastic Man by Byredo
Ben Gorham of Byredo has collaborated with the Dutch men's fashion/style magazine 'Fantastic Man' and produced a 'gentleman's cologne for 2009', which has taken 2 years from inception to production. With the concepts of 'subtlety' and 'simplicity' applied to the rest of the range, I was a bit wary that this being a cologne, it wouldn't project or last at all (I could hardly smell Gypsy Water). The notes used are pretty common in fragrances, but not so in traditional colognes. I was smitten at first sniff though with bergamot and star anise to the fore then cardamom giving it a nice kick. A heavenly lavender (never thought I'd say that) and incense mix then take over until they blend with moss, patchouli and vetiver to create a breathtakingly beautiful drydown to finish. The tenacity is surprisingly good -- I got 8 hours with a liberal spray. I am head over heels with this scent and for once all the hyperbole surrounding the fragrance is true. Fantastic Man is actually fantastic.
23 June 2009
Umè by Keiko Mecheri
A really lovely fragrance that opens with strawberries and lemon -- it can jolt you a bit at first. This is then enhanced by what was suggested as lychees, but turns out to be a gorgeous, lush plum rendition. It then stays linear with the above notes for it's duration (it musks out slightly), which is a long,long time. It all sounds rather feminine, but surprisingly isn't -- the notes mix wonderfully and Ume doesn't turn powdery at all, so I wear it happily. The sillage is really good, unlike Bois de Santal, where it is quite minimalist. I shall be trying more from this House, especially the peach rendition for the summer. I haven't smelt anything quite like this before and Ume goes straight into rotation. This fragrance needs to be experienced by everyone.
03 March 2009
Original Santal by Creed
OS is only similar to Joop in that it is 'of a type', i.e sweet, spicy with a vanilla finish. There the similarity ends though. OS is far superior (most scents are), not sure about the notes being natural as the reason -- just more thought and expertise has gone into it. If you inhale deep enough some citrus is also evident in the middle notes -- like lime, but it's probably orange. There are no discernible wood notes in this fragrance -- all you have is a sugared out sandalwood to hold it all together. It's very sweet and very delicious and lasts a long time on me. I love it.
02 March 2009
Tom Ford for Men by Tom Ford
What a choker. With money no object you would have thought Tom might have chanced his arm a bit and created something interesting, but no, the dollar signs were flashing and he's pushed out a safe, predictable masculine oriental with no redeeming qualities at all. All of the flankers are better than this and some of them are pretty mediocre. Play safe -- fill your boots.
24 February 2009
Elixir des Merveilles by Hermès
Really gorgeous deep, dense, almost dark orange right at the top -- some of the best topnotes ever are here. It's orange, but not a normal citrusy, fresh fragrance you would expect --- it's kinda woody and gourmandy. A nice sandalwood, spice and vanilla (tonka) show up later to produce a mellow refined finish and comes as a slight relief -- the top and middle can't be described as shy. There are 'men's' fragrances out there more feminine than this. Classy.
16 June 2009
Armani Attitude Extreme by Giorgio Armani
Yeah -- ok, Attitude wasn't bad in my opinion, but I don't pereceive this flanker to be much different -- just a bit richer and full. It's just an EDP version.
15 June 2009
Infusion de Fleur d'Oranger by Prada
Firstly -- I see this as a unisex scent. I have never smelt neroli quite like this before -- the top notes reminded me a bit of shoe polish with orange -- most odd. Why do the notes listed separate orange blossom absolute and neroli? -- as far as I know that's what neroli is. After a while I was half liking this though -- it's sort of quirky. I only kept the blotter for about 30 mins so can't comment on longevity (well it lasted 30 mins). I may go back to this fragrance for a proper test in the future -- it's intriguing me.
08 June 2009
Only The Brave by Diesel
I shouldn't be too hard on the name as it's linked to a charity Diesel are involved with. However, it needs saying that you wouldn't need any bravery to wear this rather ordinary fragrance -- it's also not that atrocious to wear to be deemed brave to do so. The bottle is in the shape of a sideways fist with fingerholds -- so i would say pretty much aimed at the youth market. It opens with a lemony leather blast which I quite liked --- I'm talking 60 seconds at the most though -- it then evolves into some godawful 'fresh' notes, finishing with a cedary amber mix. The sillage and longevity are just too much -- I actually had a job getting it off me. Apparently it took three 'noses' to create this -- I reckon they argued a lot and gave up halfway through. I find the bottle, the fragrance, the whole concept laughable and a bit grim at the same time. This will sell alright though, which is the bottom line for houses like this.
08 June 2009
Monsieur Balmain (new) by Pierre Balmain
Take one fresh lemon and slice into -- place your nose inside. Monsieur Balmain replicates this smell exactly and that in perfumery terms is not an easy task. It is pretty linear though, so you must like the opening. Longevity is an issue, but a liberal spraying works for me all day and to hold this note for even 3-4 hours requires some skill. Nice to turn to occasionally for spring cleaning the senses.
05 June 2009
Salvador Dali pour Homme by Salvador Dali
I am the God of hellfire and I bring you.....
Baleful images are evoked (or invoked) when worn and I can't get licking flames out of my mind. This is a heavy spicy hot fragrance with a fiery amber mix at the bottom. It's a one-off, which is now hard to find. I love it for it's boldness and other worldliness. I also thinks the fragrance itself smells great and kicks a--.
Baleful images are evoked (or invoked) when worn and I can't get licking flames out of my mind. This is a heavy spicy hot fragrance with a fiery amber mix at the bottom. It's a one-off, which is now hard to find. I love it for it's boldness and other worldliness. I also thinks the fragrance itself smells great and kicks a--.
03 June 2009
Central Park by Bond No. 9
I love the verbena at the top and if you like green, this is isn't half bad. The woody and musky finish is particularly well done also. I prefer Little Italy for the summer from this House, but may succumb to CP for a change or if the summer is endless.
03 June 2009
Brooklyn by Bond No. 9
Bond No 9 have a reputation for plagiarism, which is not entirely unjustified, but at least that is a thought process. No thought has gone into Brooklyn or maybe just ' knock out a safe one'. It's a little bit fresh, a little bit green, a little bit woody, but a whole lot of mediocrity. I mean this could be a 'Hugo Boss' bargain box chuckout. Why would you want to spend £100, but smell like £5? Avoid like the plague is my advice.
03 June 2009
Peau de Pêche by Keiko Mecheri
Er -- I smell like a peach.
But it's a beautiful peach that isn't cloying, more like a citrus effect. I thought it wouldn't last but with a liberal spray it takes 8 hours easily. The drydown is amazing when the peach mixes with a very soft sandalwood. Dreamy.
But it's a beautiful peach that isn't cloying, more like a citrus effect. I thought it wouldn't last but with a liberal spray it takes 8 hours easily. The drydown is amazing when the peach mixes with a very soft sandalwood. Dreamy.
03 June 2009
Dia for Men by Amouage
Not that keen on the topnotes, but the middle and base make up for that. Very thick, lush and exotic drydown of fruit, patchouli and a dense rich amber. Worth every penny imo as you don't need to use much for all day.
03 June 2009
Cravache by Robert Piguet
Brylcreem, tuxedos, ocean liners come to mind --- very old school, very masculine. I usually shy away from these types of men's scents, but have to take my hat off to this lovely herbal spicy and citrusy mix. Reminds me a bit of Rive Gauche with citrus overtones. Might be slightly restrictive in terms of when to wear.
03 June 2009
Bandit by Robert Piguet
I am having a bit of a leather jag at the moment concerning scents. Bandit EDP is not as good as the original, but it still kicks. Bandit has a quite floral opening with just whispers of leather. This leather note then steadily becomes more prominent in a subtle and clever way as the other notes gently bow down and accept that the Emperor himself is coming. This is a genuine unisex fragrance and one of the best leathers out there -- sillage is fine and longevity outstanding. Bandit is the real deal.
23 February 2009
Love in Black by Creed
Yeah, ok this is unisex -- er that's about it really. Couldn't get by the godawful skanky top notes of parma violets (I hated those little sweets when I was young) -- but wait, the violets are joined by an equally repellant powdery iris note -- oh I'm now in smell heaven. To be fair, this is a knee-jerk reaction to two notes I don't get on with and should have given it more time, but you know -- I have to like it all.
11 May 2009
Eau de Sisley 3 by Sisley
Of the three in the range, this is the jewel in the crown. Citrusy top notes soon dive into a really spectacular ginger and osmanthus mix, the like of which I have never smelt before. I can't detect all the fruit that is listed (maybe a touch of sweet peach), but the drydown is lovely, still containing the ginger, but joined now by a, not overpowering vanilla and a lovely musk note. This is definitely unisex unlike the other two offerings in the range. I had to spray quite liberally to get the full effect ,sillage and longevity I like for all day wear though. I really love this.
11 May 2009
Eau de Sisley 2 by Sisley
A spicy note opening followed by some herbs (the blurb on the Sisley website describes the basil as 'impertinent' ---hilarious). There then follows some rather weak jasmine and rose notes and ends up with a woody base. Even with the notes listed the whole fragrance has a sort of airy and insubstantial feel and once again veers to the feminine side.
11 May 2009
Eau de Sisley 1 by Sisley
A summery floral with a citrusy opening followed by a spicy middle together with juniper berries ending in a chypre base. Quite nice if a touch ethereal but leaning heavily towards the feminine in my opinion.
11 May 2009
Dirty English by Juicy Couture
Ugh -- I can't stand the top notes -- trying so hard to be different and a bit shocking, at least they are not lying with the name. I don't mind waiting for things to happen with fragrances, but the wood and amber drydown is no great shakes and not very original. Not for me -- I need to like it all.
19 February 2009
Vetiver Bourbon by Miller Harris
This is a deep, deep woody take on vetiver that requires some pulling off. It is potent and linear for a few hours, but the very late drydown when the oakmoss and amber merge is very nice. This vetiver version won't be for everybody and I don't think I will be investing in a full bottle, but would have if the basenotes were quicker to arrive.
19 February 2009
Dzing! by L'Artisan Parfumeur
Can't really compare this to the smell of circuses as have only been once aeons ago and hated -- wild animals tamed to do stupid tricks, unfunny clowns, horses running round in a circle,etc. There are also no barns where I live. To replicate the smell of this fragrance --- take one brand new expensive leather man's shoe and squeeze one drop of vanilla essence inside -- leave for fifteen minutes, then pick up, put your nose in and inhale -- you have Dzing. I don't dislike, but won't be purchasing.
05 May 2009
La Nuit De L'Homme by Yves Saint Laurent
L'Homme was uninspired and dull and now an even more soporific flanker comes along. Top notes of bergamot and lavender, then cardamom and cedar finishing with a horribly sweet amber, van .....zzzzzzzz. If I've smelt this combination and the way it is blended once ......... you know the ending. What makes it worse, is that it is very loud and vulgar. Discussions on this fragrance at YSL must have solely centred on how much money they can pull in, you know -- generic = popular = sales. This house is going downhill fast.
05 May 2009
Terre d'Hermès by Hermès
I purchased TDH when it was first launched and liked very much, especially in the later stages. The fragrance produced an aura of orange, salt and vetiver that diffused everywhere and I was enchanted. I re-purchased last year and pretty much disliked it. It seemed to be very dry, dusty and almost unpleasant. I can't really explain the shift in perception, but moved it on quickly. The average must be a neutral.
01 May 2009
Virgin Island Water by Creed
Er -- I think the clue is in the name, some seem surprised at its tropical nature as though birch and tar would be more apt. Suntan lotion fragrances always elicit happy memories, but I have never used one that smells quite as good as this and which also lasts for ages. Don't think it would quite sit right on cool days for obvious reasons, but hey whatever works for you. Lime, rum and cream coconut -- let yourself drift away............
01 May 2009
Vanisia by Creed
Sounds like an ice-cream or a science-fiction character. Beautifully blended spicy, creamy vanilla that lasts for ever -- I could detect on the test card 24 hours later. A lush oriental with a lovely drydown using sandalwood as a pin. I am not sure whether I would feel totally comfortable wearing although it can't be described as a strictly powdery floral, which is my benchmark for gender crossovers. Hmmmm.
27 April 2009
Vanilia by L'Artisan Parfumeur
There is a smokey, spicy edge to this vanilla that prevents it from becoming cloying and on my skin lasts for ages. Spray this on one hand and Givenchy's Pi on the other -- you will detect the difference in class and skill involved. I disagree regarding when to wear -- I think it suits the summer perfectly. Not an everyday scent imo, but lovely to wear occasionally. The L'Artisan 50ml bottles all have pretty nasty clear plastic tops now though -- must be feeling the pinch.
27 April 2009
Sweet Lime and Cedar by Jo Malone
The lime note here is wonderful and hangs on tenaciously right through to the end (inhale deeply and you will find it after 8 hours) -- in fact I don't get much spice at all, it seems to me a full on citrus fragrance, but with a nice woody bottom. This doesn't sound all that groundbreaking, but wearing it is a different matter -- on my skin it purrs. I also prefer it to the Basil and Lime fragrance. Linear as usual from JM, but with this it's of no account. Really nice.
27 April 2009
Kohdo Wood Collection: Dark Amber & Ginger Lily by Jo Malone
This comes in a black bottle to accentuate the 'dark' aspect I suppose. I'm not sure why it is categorised as feminine -- it seems pretty unisex to me. It has a spicy incensey feel right from the start with the lily joining in later -- all very funereal. The ginger isn't that strong to me, but I have trouble identifying that note amongst other spices anyway. The best is yet to come though with the fabulous amber rendition kicking in at the bottom-- similar to the one in Cavalli Black -- so very sexy. A real return to form for this House imo. You need to seek this one out.
27 April 2009
L'Anarchiste by Caron
I have always liked this, but don't really want a bucket of it -- have only ever seen that huge almost organic copper bottle. It's a good name for the scent beacuse even though the notes seem innocuous enough, they all get in a ring and have a battle, especially the fruit, woods and vetiver. The orange blossom is a lovely rendition (not all are) --- oh enough -- the overall feeling is hard to explain, you just have to try it like all good empiricists.
24 April 2009
Matin Calin by Comptoir Sud Pacifique
I think the tester must have been off -- it smelt like baby's sick. The sales assistant called me over as he had smelt earlier and wanted me to confirm that it was the worst smell ever and I almost gagged -- rotten milk mixed with toffee -- this wasn't auto suggestive, it was baaaad. If it wasn't off, I don't want to be near anyone who is wearing this. Makes Secretions Magnifique seem like a bouquet of flowers in comparison.
23 April 2009
Terre de Bois by Miller Harris
You never know how much you miss something until it's gone. Have returned to TDB and I still love it, which doesn't always happen. A brilliantly blended unisex fragrance by Lyn Harris of woods, herbs and spices. The fennel and juniper in the middle are the stars together with the lovely patchouli at the bottom. Lasts all day on me, spanking sillage and women love it -- there are no negatives. A brilliant creation.
22 April 2009
Chèvrefeuille Original by Creed
I find the honeysuckle note in general to be very feminine. I have a huge bush of honeysuckle, which I stick my head into every summer as it's intoxicating. It doesn't smell like this. The Jo Malone rendition is nearer and I'm sure many more. This is a green/herbal mixture (get quite a bit of basil) and works well on that basis -- the drydown is wonderful. Maybe my honeysuckle is unoriginal.
21 April 2009
Lalique White by Lalique
I think this House has only made one mistake and that was Faune. White is lovely and has nice moves. The opening is citrusy and slightly generic, but this quickly passes and White moves through the spicy and musk phases effortlessly. I also detect quite strongly the white pepper, which underpins the fragrance for a long while and appears in quite a few of their fragrances. The musk and amber are lovely at the end -- I just wish White had better diffusion --- if it had the sillage of Equus it would be perfect.
21 April 2009
Touaregh by Il Profumo
Yeah --- I remember this -- was looking for something completely different at the time, but the top notes just hook you in -- a sort of spicy pot-pourri and I succumbed. It's a bit like cds -- always have the best and strongest track as the first. I soon got pretty bored with it though -- a linear spice bomb that wore me down.
21 April 2009
New Haarlem by Bond No. 9
The top notes are bitter and harsh. This coffee is burnt. Rochas Man is smoother and nicer to wear -- won't cost you an arm and a leg either.
20 April 2009
Garrigue by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier
Safari? GIT? Cool Water?. I must have missed that meeting. I mean this has class and skill dripping from it unlike the aforementioned imposters. A really gorgeous citrus and herb mix that lasts forever. How this has slipped under my radar is a mystery. Jean Laporte was inspired with Garrigue.
20 April 2009
Italian Cypress by Tom Ford
Check -- this is a straight up cypress rendition, which is arid and masculine. The rendition is really lovely though and it doesn't really stray anywhere else. It reminds me slightly of Fou D'Absinthe, replacing cypress for pine and smoke for booze. It has that burnt woody autumnal feel. There is one caveat -- it smells like something your Dad would like to wear.
20 April 2009
Concentrée D'Orange Verte by Hermès
Beautiful scent -- end of. I love this proportionately to the dislike I have for the really horribly synthetic Jardin fragrances by Hermes. A more wonderful rendition of a citrus chypre is just not out there. Sillage and longevity are both excellent. Will always be in rotation.
20 April 2009
Un Jardin en Méditerranée by Hermès
Am I the only one who gets mint? Anyway, this is so dry it catches the back of my throat. I know it's all 'aromachemicals' and synthetics these days and I'm not complaining, but this comes across as just too artificial and chemically driven. I don't like it for that reason.
20 April 2009
Eau Empire by Rancé
A stylish fragrance -- the grapefruit seems to last a long long time on me -- the woody drydown is lovely, but the sillage is very shy. Eau Empire reeks class though and as far as I know only 4 were created in this range -- this was my favourite. For what it cost me, I can't complain.
20 April 2009
Little Italy by Bond No. 9
I am not sure what people want from citrus fragrances -- wood, leather,petrol? I find Little Italy to be a really beautiful, deep orange and lemon fragrance and to me, exudes quality. I prefer this to Tangerine Vert, which is very similar -- so a cheaper alternative if you like. A joyous frag for a hot day.
15 April 2009
Noir Epices by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle
Oh man -- there is so much clove in the middle of this, it jolts me. It only really subsides way into the drydown and this is the stage I like best as the woods and patchouli soften. The opening couple of hours are a bit too camphorous and almost medicinal for my liking -- smells as though you may be treating a chest infection or something bronchial at least. It is not a scent I will wear regularly because the opportunities will be limited, i.e. not good for warm weather or an office environment imo. For ultra spice diehards only.
08 April 2009
Cuir d'Oranger by Miller Harris
Coruscating opening, which then settles down to a deep dark orange, wood and leather mix that lasts all day. This is a f... off scent of the highest quality and much, much easier to wear than Tabac Blond and far superior imo. A killer frag --- save up.
13 February 2009
Cuiron Pour Homme by Helmut Lang
This is becoming hard to find and may be discontinued soon. It's the plum with the leather notes that make this fragrance outstanding and innovative. For a top note the plum seems to hang around a long time imo. Two from Helmut Lang and then nothing -- I wish they would create some more as they were both excellent in their different ways.
13 February 2009
Shaal Nur by Etro
Have loved this for years, but always thought it was too feminine for me and actually after wearing it isn't at all -- once you get through the topnotes. SN is sweet, spicy, incensey and quite musky imo. The KK note is in here -- appears in Timbuktu also I think. The sillage and longevity are both good, wouldn't wear in the summer though.
04 February 2009
Bois de Santal by Keiko Mecheri
I do like the sandalwoood note and loved this immediately, but it does change quite quickly into a more sweetened ambery/floral mix. There is a little of the wood, which hangs on gallantly though and the drydown is lush. I am going to thumbs up, but the sillage is very poor although the longevity is good. It may need applying twice in a short time to get the diffusion required.
03 February 2009
Yatagan by Caron
I have tried to like this, but it is what it is and I can't get by the extremely dry and bitter top opening. I have a job distinguishing any notes at all when first sprayed because of the harshness. Someone mentioned smelling 'celery' -- if you really like that note, Grain de Plaisir is the way to go. Yatagan is not touching my skin.
27 January 2009
Iris Taïzo 14 by Parfumerie Generale
A wonderful and completely different rendition of the Iris note. Even though there are some spices and sweetness poking through it's the Iris that always leads the way here. However, it does turn distinctly powdery on me and therein lies the problem. I can't wear, with any confidence, powdery florals -- so I put this in the feminine camp. I don't think it is strictly unisex, but good luck if you can pull it off and I envy all you women with this one.
26 January 2009
Ice*Men by Thierry Mugler
The first half hour or so of this fragrance is really nice -- like an iced coffee. But then, oh dear, it's all downhill. It begins to resemble one of those sharp 70's men's fragrances and becomes truly horrible. How they managed to do that with vanilla and patchouli at the bottom end beats me. Be warned -- what you smell on the blotter isn't what you get left with.
26 January 2009
Intrigant Patchouli 08 by Parfumerie Generale
An astonishing patchouli fragrance that lasts a long while on me. Nothing like the old 'patchouli oil' from the seventies. It's very 'eastern' though with a melange of spices drifting on its coat tail. A lovely sweetened drydown completes what is imo a major fragrance. It reminds me slightly of Creeds Royal Delight, but I will take IP anytime. In fact, I hope to never be without this wonderful fragrance.
A beacon of light amongst a sea of dross.
A beacon of light amongst a sea of dross.
26 January 2009
Racquets Formula by Penhaligon's
Fresh, clean, soapy and spicy with a beautiful musky finish. This is the best fragrance in the range imo. The sillage is good and the longevity excellent. I can't really imagine anyone not liking it. I love it -- it just makes you feel good.
26 January 2009
Feuilles de Tabac by Miller Harris
This is a lovely sweet tobacco fragrance with a rich drydown, intensified by the amber. I think the sillage is outstanding and the longevity good. I would never wear this in the summer months though -- it just wouldn't work as it is a very 'warm' scent. The new Tom Ford's Tobacco and Vanilla rendition is more gorgeous to wear imo, but comes with a hefty price tag.
15 January 2009
Roadster by Cartier
I quite like the futurist type shaped bottle. The fragrance itself is ok, but pretty safe. The mint in this is tolerable, but that note in IO Capri is much nicer. It settles down to a warm woodyand spicy base. Most Cartier fragrances leave me cold and I'm not sure why, but Roadster (terrible name) is not half bad. I won't be investing though.
14 January 2009
Vétiver by Piver
A wonderful rendition of vetiver. The top notes are beautifully fresh and it moves majestically to a woody drydown. This scent just oozes class. You will have to spary liberally though for it to last all day. The value for money is tremendous, but Piver products are probably a little hard to find --- if you see a bottle, buy it.
13 January 2009
Antidote by Viktor & Rolf
It must be some feat to include 25 different notes in a fragrance and produce something so boring -- it actually smells quite generic, which is obviously not what they were looking for. It is also becoming rather jarring. What a scrubber.
13 January 2009
Bulgari Black by Bulgari
This seems to have been discontinued in the UK now. You can still buy Joop and Beyond Paradise though -- where's the sense.
12 January 2009
Tea for Two by L'Artisan Parfumeur
T42 is very nice, I get a little tobacco/smoke with the tea also. The drydown is very sweet and I love it. The sillage is subdued though. It won't take your breath away, but if you like the smell of sweet tea, you will love this.
12 January 2009
Tobacco Vanille by Tom Ford
My favourite of this rather disappointing line by Tom Ford. His new 'Pour Homme' is ghastly. I think this works though and the mix between the two main notes is just right imo. The sillage is fine and the longevity is fantastic. The price tag is incomprehensible though and why only 50ml and 250ml?. A thumbs up for the scent only here.
12 January 2009
Very Irrésistible for Men by Givenchy
I'm not sure about the longevity yet, but I do like this. The grapefruit and coffee mixes suprisingly well. The end product smells somewhat like Guerlain's L'Instant imo, without the citrus, which can't be bad for the price I paid. There is much worse than this out there and I'll wear happily.
12 January 2009
Costume National 21 by Costume National
This is a a lovely fragrance celebrating CN' s 21st anniversary and I agree with everyone about the notes . Sillage is ok and longevity is outstanding on me. So why the neutral? Because 21 smells exactly like Bogart Pour Homme, which is a fair bit cheaper. I wonder if they know?
12 January 2009
Fou d'Absinthe by L'Artisan Parfumeur
Reminds me of Autumn and is quite powerful on me. Very masculine in my opinion with it's boozy absinthe opening moving into a still rather drunken pine forest. Something happened to the sprayer halfway through though and it started coming out like a jet of liquid -- doh! Rich and good -- why has the price been upped by L'Artisan with this fragrance though?
06 January 2009
Rossy de Palma by Etat Libre d'Orange
I've gone right off rose fragrances -- I think they all smell better on women anyway. But I did hover over my wallet with this one as I think it's lovely -- very much like Paestum Rose by Eau D'Italie. What's all this nonsense regarding the words 'synthetic' and 'artificial' in perfumes-- just accept that as a fact with 99.9% of fragrances -- 0.1% is for the super rich -- don't let perfumers tell you otherwise.
02 January 2009
Chocolat Frais by Il Profumo
Can't believe no-one has detected the orange in this -- it's a chocolate orange. I purchased this some years ago as I was in a gourmandy phase and I really liked it then -- it was sweet and sexy and lasted all day on me, but the novelty wore off eventually. You could do a lot worse if you are still the hungry type though. Won't ever return but will thumbs up.
02 January 2009
Knize Ten by Knize
Wore this some years ago now and it nearly blew my head off. Hey, come on, I am not going to 'mist' it and hope some droplets fall on my skin -- it will outlive me. KT is a lovely leather and would be even lovelier without the petroly note. It's too potent though -- I don't want to be scared to spray. Similar in power to Tabac Blond, which I also can't wear, but less harsh. REL by Creed and Cuiron are preferable. Won't thumbs down though.
30 December 2008
Narciso Rodriguez for Him by Narciso Rodriguez
This was put out on the quick and smells like it, i.e. hardly any thought has gone into it -- the 'NR for her' is quite nice though. What a rotter.
30 December 2008
Dolce & Gabbana pour Homme by Dolce & Gabbana
I can't believe the note pyramid with this fragrance. It should just read - lemon - lemon - lemon/touch of tobacco. If you like lemon fragrances, go for the CDG version or the re-issued Balmain. The tobacco note is poor also and doesn't really work. The best creation for men by this house was 'By' and that's been pulled now. It should have been this.
30 December 2008
Encens & Bubblegum by Etat Libre d'Orange
Don't be fooled by the name - there's no bubblegum here. It's basically just another quite pleasant orange blossom scent, of which there are hundreds. Too feminine for me though.
18 December 2008
Armani Attitude by Giorgio Armani
Ok, Fact -- Armani as a house don't make very good perfumes, even their Prive line is only average at best. Basically they are cashing in on a lucrative market. Attitude is a cheesy name for a fragrance, the design of the bottle is naff and it's overpriced. The fragrance itself however is rather good and miles better than the awful Diamonds. Once you realise you are not going to swoon at any Armani fragrance that has ever been created or any that are in the pipeline, Attitude could be the best. I like it.
09 December 2008
Sécrétions Magnifiques by Etat Libre d'Orange
Ah -- a 'post modern' fragrance, i.e. let's produce an aroma that smells disgusting and wait for people to buy it anyway because we are a new 'niche' house, What fun must be had at dinner parties -- can you guess what it smells like yet, Cynthia?? Oh, we did laugh.
08 December 2008
Aramis by Aramis
From an iconoclast. Stop patronising this fragrance. Aramis was pretty horrible in the sixties -- I wouldn't even toss it down a smelly drain now. Cristobal PH (just one example) has been discontinued after a few years play and this is still being produced. Let that sink in.
01 December 2008
Acqua di Giò pour Homme by Giorgio Armani
The majority of Armani's clothing has the initials AJ or Armani plastered all over it -- why do that -- it's so cheesy. I imagine people who buy clothes that are a walking advertisement for the designer, wear ADG also. I love Armani suits and would like to own several, but the House just can't hack it with perfumery - be honest.
Come on -- let's evolve. Stop buying this.
Come on -- let's evolve. Stop buying this.
01 December 2008
Jasmin et Cigarette by Etat Libre d'Orange
The tobacco in this smells exactly like a freshly opened pack of cigarettes (before sparking). The mixing with the jasmine and fruit is quiet innovative and elicits back street clubs at 4am surrounded by women (just a guess though). But there's the caveat for me -- I think this fragrance slightly sits on the feminine side of unisex.
01 December 2008
IO "Capri" by Carthusia
I'm not normally a great fan of minty fragrances -- always evokes the smell of dentists waiting rooms, but this is a beautiful mint, and mixed with the figs and tea later, even better. IO may not be ultra expensive or fashionable, but it is a fragrance that's way up there with the best and not to be patronised. A really wonderful sleeper.
01 December 2008
Ambre Russe by Parfum d'Empire
I can't edit my review of Eau de Gloire from the same House, but that review was for Ambre Russe (doh!), which I wouldn't wear -- the amber being too bitter for my tastes.
Eau de Gloire is a different beast and a perfectly acceptable lemony / tobacco fragrance with great sillage and longevity and very bottleworthy. This thumbs up is for EDG and not this one.
Eau de Gloire is a different beast and a perfectly acceptable lemony / tobacco fragrance with great sillage and longevity and very bottleworthy. This thumbs up is for EDG and not this one.
01 December 2008
Sa Majesté la Rose by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido
Two in one here. Sa Majeste is the best rose scent I have ever smelt. The combination with the gaiac wood works magically. Fleurs D'Oranger is also the best orange blossom fragrance I have ever experienced, the mixing of the white jasmin is the key here. Unfortunately, I could never wear either as they both too feminine imo. Both scents are wonderful creations and pure works of art.
26 November 2008
Gucci by Gucci pour Homme by Gucci
This scent is just plain weird and I've tried a few. If the top notes are a mixture of violet and leather -- well they just don't compliment each other at all. I get some tobacco also I think -- a chypre needs a warm woody base normally, but I wasn't going to wait that long to find out. Jarring.
21 November 2008
Nouvelle Edition Figue Amere by Miller Harris
Gorgeous fig scent. It's hard to choose between this and L'Artisan's Extreme version. The L'Artisan fragrance uses coconut as a base and Figue Amere uses amber and that's the only difference really. Both are lovely and intoxicating. Figue Amere is less sweet than L'Artisan's --- best to try them both. You won't find better fig scents anyway.
20 November 2008
Sel de Vetiver by Different Company
Don't be fooled by the citrusy top notes. This isn't a green, clean vetiver --- SDV evolves into a rather dark one with the salt becoming more prominent until it practically takes over the whole scent. Surprisingly, this isn't as weird as it sounds because the patchouli is still holding on and the whole effect is rather lovely. I also found that SDV drifts in and out -- one minute you think it's gone and then it is enveloping you again -- quite magical. A very beguiling and beautiful scent.
19 November 2008
Mugler Cologne by Thierry Mugler
This scent has been done to death now, although 'scent' is stretching things a bit far. Neroli? Orange? Where?.... You'd be better off rubbing some orange peel around your wrists. It's fresh smelling alright -- fresh air (and that's free).
18 November 2008
Himalaya by Creed
It must be me -- I don't like this at all. Himalaya smells like umpteen other fresh men's fragrances that are on the market -- with that overtly masculine kick. I can't believe that GIT is more boring than this as someone has noted -- that would be some feat.
18 November 2008
Orange Spice by Creed
Not quite as dirty as Cuir D'Oranger, but getting there. Great longevity and sillage with a lovely musky drydown. Bottle worthy for sure -- don't miss out.
18 November 2008
Paestum Rose by Eau d'Italie
Paestum Rose along with Sa Majeste by SL and Rossy de Palma are probably the nicest rose fragrance renditions you can find, but I've gone off rose as a main note nowadays for some reason --a bit headache inducing on occasions. I also actually think this fragrance would work better on a woman, but it is genuinely unisex. If you like rose, you can't go wrong -- but I'll pass.
17 November 2008
Comme des Garçons 2 Man by Comme des Garçons
I loved this years ago when it was first launched, but I find it a bit flat now, as though it has been rinsed through. I would take White, Palisander, Kyoto and even Vettiveru over this nowadays -- they may have been tinkering with 2.
17 November 2008
DKNY Be Delicious Men by Donna Karan
Weak, tiresome smell -- actually quite ghastly. Can't be bothered to comment more on it....
17 November 2008
Burberry London for Men by Burberry
Nice boozy, fruity opening, which quickly dries down to a spicy and woody finish. If I had tested blindly, I would have sworn this was a Comme Des Garcons offering. Very distinctive and really lovely -- well done to this House for not pumping out some boring, jack-the -lad fragrance.
17 November 2008
parfums*PARFUMS Series 2 Red: Palisander by Comme des Garçons
Gorgeous wood fragrance, but not a harsh wood -- it even reminds me of Bois de Filao sometimes early on and that is sweet. CDG persist with the peppers as usual and it works ok, but the drydown is the star here with the incense topped cedar working wonderfully. One of the best.
17 November 2008
The One for Men by Dolce & Gabbana
I never trust fragrances that have huge advertising campaigns surrounding it. More thought should have gone into the actual fragrance, which is very generic and totally naff. Yawnworthy and 'The One' to completely ignore if you are looking for something interesting. Tobacco? -- Do me a favour.
17 November 2008
Dior Homme Sport by Christian Dior
Two words -- why bother? The original is much better that this synthetic unoriginal offering. Uninspired and just chasing the money -- I've just answered my opening comments. Avoid.
17 November 2008
Douce Amère by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido
There's a problem with Douce Amere in that it takes a full two hours to actually reveal the anise I was waiting for -- before that it had a sort of nutty, muddy aroma. Nice enough -- if you can wait!
17 November 2008
Vetiver Ambrato by Bois 1920
Nicest of the range imo with a beautiful opening of a sweetened vetiver. I love the amber note in this fragrance, which blends really well with the green notes. I must disagree over the strength though -- I find VA to have a rather powerful sillage and liberal spraying would be quite overwhelming (for everyone). Good stuff.
17 November 2008
Vetiver Oriental by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido
Begins a little gourmandy, but the vetiver/green notes kick in pretty soon after. The best is yet to come though -- when the labdanum and gaiac woods start to mix it almost takes your breath away. I would take this over Hermes's tonka any day. A winter fragrance to die for.
31 October 2008
Lalique pour Homme Equus by Lalique
Wore this a few years ago now, but loved. A dark, towering spicy beauty that makes its presence felt. Sillage is powerful -- lasts all day. A sheer black thoroughbred.
23 October 2008
Heliotrope by Etro
This version is almost exactly the same as Heliotrope Blanc by Piver. which precedes it by 140 years, so no stars for originality. Etro's version is slightly more deep and the sillage and longevity are better which enhances the richness. Both scents are lovely for the winter, but is the Etro worth over double the money than the Piver --- maybe.
20 October 2008
Etra by Etro
This is a a very nice peppery musk - I can't detect any vanilla. Have received positive reactions all round, so can't complain there. Etra reminds me of the MPG musks, but with more sillage and longevity (that wouldn't be hard though). I like it a lot, but don't love it.
20 October 2008
Armani Privé Vétiver Babylone by Giorgio Armani
I loved the top citrusy notes and for the next half-hour or so it was still fresh, but a bit more spicy. And then it changed into a rather ordinary and generic fragrance - on me anyway -- I mean, not unpleasant at all, but a bit predictable. Basically, it's a fresh vetiver with more green than wood. The whole 'Prive' line was a bit flat imo.
20 October 2008
Bois du Portugal by Creed
Oh dear -- I'm the black sheep again. I really don't like BDP. It's just too 'old school' and unashamedly masculine and formal for me. The scents that go for that angle all smell roughly similar, Safari, Riverside Drive, Polo and I don't like any of them. I like scents to amaze me -- not produce a 'ho hum -- and?' reaction.
14 October 2008
Serge Noire by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido
One smell on the tester and I had to have this gothic masterpiece. A rich, spicy, woody wonderland. If this had been part of the CDG Incense range, it would have been the best by a long way. The best offering from this house for quite some time. Longevity and sillage are both outstanding. This will be amazing for the winter months.
14 October 2008
Coze 02 by Parfumerie Generale
Why bother when you can have the vastly superior Fumerie Turque. Too harsh on my skin, but doesn't smell bad on the test strip. I think the whole PG range is just trying a touch too hard to be different and end up overdoing and complicating their fragrances.
14 October 2008
Joop! Jump by Joop!
I don't get it and didn't like it at all. Indistinguishable from tons of other fragrances out there. Was also being pushed to purchase the 100ml bottle in an obviously none too subtle debrief about cost -- fake facial expressions thrown in -- the lot, so an unpleasant experience all round really. Don't think i will ever purchase any Joop products, not least because of their hilariously vile first fragrance for men.
13 October 2008
Premier Figuier Extrême by L'Artisan Parfumeur
This is gorgeous and will be purchasing asap. It is the best 'fig' fragrance Ive tried and would be a very apt scent for the winter months. It's green and milky and sweet all at the same time and it was all I could do to stop having a quick lick. Outstanding.
13 October 2008
Baie de Genièvre by Creed
I love this but hate Bois de Portugal, so wouldn't call it overtly masculine. The notes have been outlined previously and I find the berries and spices a winning formula here. I think the combination of notes could have been awkward to pull off but Creed deliver the goods wonderfully. This is an edt so was wary of longevity, but lasts all day on me. I am beginning to change my mind about the Creed range -- they do have some outstanding fragrances.
13 October 2008
Cuba by Czech & Speake
Oh my -- this is lovely. Tobacco soon takes over the top notes, which then mixes gloriously with rose and herbs (this part has to be experienced) until it all melds into a spicy/woody drydown with the tobacco still hanging on in there. This is a 'cologne' but lasts for ages. Exceptional.
13 October 2008
Tam Dao by Diptyque
Tam Dao is a lovely sandalwood fragrance, which is linear and quite dry. It does produce an air of calm within me (hard to explain), but others have mentioned also. TD is behind Santal Imperial and Santal Noble in the sandalwood stakes, but only by a whisker. Best in the Diptyque range by a long, long way.
13 October 2008
Antaeus by Chanel
Fire up the Quattro!!!
Another 80's powerhouse that smells nice enough, but is totally unwearable in the vein of Van Cleef and Arpels. Elegant? Sophisticated? -- I don't think they equate to 'in your face' and 'heavy' do they? Try Versace L'Homme (1984) instead for refinement and ditch the hipsters with the white belt.
Another 80's powerhouse that smells nice enough, but is totally unwearable in the vein of Van Cleef and Arpels. Elegant? Sophisticated? -- I don't think they equate to 'in your face' and 'heavy' do they? Try Versace L'Homme (1984) instead for refinement and ditch the hipsters with the white belt.
03 October 2008
Richard James by Richard James
Wore this some years ago now and really enjoyed it's richness and individuality. There is one caveat though -- someone thought i was sucking 'Tunes' (cough lozenges) and I had to agree there is a similarity. The herb notes are maybe too strong and tend to dominate. Definitely worth trying though.
02 October 2008
M7 Fresh by Yves Saint Laurent
This is what was missing in the original -- some lightness. It's now perfect.
02 October 2008
Collection Homme Fruit de Bois by Jean-Charles Brosseau
This is the best of the three in the collection by a country mile. Fruity, boozy, sweet and woody all in one, yet sophisticated with it, somehow. I think the juniper is inspired and works really well throughout, enhancing the other notes. Definitely worth seeking out.
26 September 2008
Hermèssence Vétiver Tonka by Hermès
This is 'Mechant Loup', but sweeter. Can't detect much vetiver though. Good sillage and lasts well on me. Buy the 4 x 15ml travel set if in stock -- much cheaper. Forgot to mention -- it's very very lovely.
25 September 2008
Santal Impérial by Creed
A lovely and honest rendition of sandalwood with a light vanilla + amber added to the drydown. If you are seeking a pure sandalwood fragrance, this is the one, but if you want a rather more complex and spectacular version --'Santal Noble' is the choice. This fragrance nudges Etro's version down to third favourite though. No longevity or sillage problems either -- I'm slowly changing my mind about Creed's edt's.
25 September 2008
Guerlain Homme by Guerlain
I actually saw this in Boots (huge chemist chain in the UK) recently, have never seen a Guerlain fragrance in there before, so must be going for the big kill with men now. Tried some on my arm and was pleasantly surprised with the opening citrus notes - no tired formula here, there was a twist of something boozy mixed in and a nice floral accord also - very refreshing and distinctive. The woody drydown is more familiar but still well done. The fragrance is obviously aimed at the 'mass market' for men, but hasn't compromised into generic safety like many others and I think I actually prefer this to some of their more expensive 'challenging' fragrances. Guerlain Homme is very nice indeed and a future investment for sure.
22 September 2008
Vétiver by Creed
I like it very much although calling it Vetiver is a bit misleading. It has a very fresh and expensive soap aroma to me and does recall old barbers shops -- not a bad thing though. Very late in the drydown something green and woody does show it's hand, but never dominates. I initially sprayed at night and could detect it in the morning, which is usually a good sign regarding longevity -- may need being quite liberal with the application. For a fresh, clean, elegant, spicy and occasionally woody fragrance, it takes some beating. Needs checking out at least.
18 September 2008
Un Parfum d'Aventure by Piver
Purchased this a couple of years ago now and enjoyed it very much although I remember thinking the longevity could have been better. A really lovely melange of warm spices with cardamom and peppers to the fore and a gentle woody drydown. As mentioned before with PIver, the range are great value for money and this is also beautifully packaged with stories of sailing the seven seas for the precious spices hundreds of years ago on the box. So, a history lesson and a smashing fragrance all in one -- top marks.
15 September 2008
Black Cashmere by Donna Karan
This is a fleeting incense/wood concoction with weak spicy overtones, but the whole fragrance needs beefing up -- it's diaphonous and short lived. If you want an incense frag go for Messe de Minuit or Passage D'Enfer -- they are far superior.
12 September 2008
Timbuktu by L'Artisan Parfumeur
Loved it from beginning to end. Can't think of another fragrance this good that's similar, which nowadays is a feat in itself. Lovely peppery opening, refreshing green notes and a beautiful woody/incensey finish. There is also another lovely complimentary note, which must be the Karo Karounde flower that makes this so special. It is a challenging fragrance though, so wouldn't blind buy.
12 September 2008
Jicky by Guerlain
Oh dear -- did not like the lavender rendition -- the middle notes bypassed me and wasn't keen on the base note combination. Apart from that......
12 September 2008
Passage d'Enfer by L'Artisan Parfumeur
Best incense based fragrance out there no question -- the combination with the white lily is the masterstroke. Open the gates and let me in.
12 September 2008
Weekend for Men by Burberry
Straightforward citrusy opening albeit pleasant, which settles down to a musky soapy finish. I've been told that it is a really sexy aroma by others, but I always find that hard to quantify in men's fragrances (I need feedback). There is nothing wrong with Weekend and it is nice to wear occasionally. Longevity and sillage pretty good on me, so good value for money also. Growing fond of it.
11 September 2008
Five O'Clock Au Gingembre by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido
I liked this, but apart from the ginger, it isn't a lot different to many others in the smoky/rich sort of line and is playing rather safe I feel. The sillage is a bit shy, unlike Fumerie Turque and Un Cedre, but the longevity is ok. Overall, a bit disappointed in the lack of imagination involved in the creation, but if you are new to the SL line you will probably love it.
10 September 2008
Opôné by Diptyque
I actually was unable to wear this outside. It's just too pungent -- I'm not sure the saffron compliments the rose very well for a skin perfume. It's very pot-pourri -- a lovely smell (for the house maybe). CDG's White has similarities but is much more wearable (i.e. it won't knock you over) and superior in every aspect.
15 August 2008
Encre Noire by Lalique
Wore this when it was first launched and liked very much. Very nice soft wood/vetiver fragrance that lasts all day and improves in the drydown when the musk kicks in. Not for harsh vetiver lovers though. Bottle can be doubled for ink when finished also.
13 August 2008
Présence by Mont Blanc
I have returned to this fragrance again after purchasing a bottle when it was first launched. I really liked it then and thought it was somewhat unusual with all the spices thrown in along with the sweetness. Not so keen now that I have tried very many others -- it seems a bit simplistic. The musky drydown is very nice though. Would have thumbed up seven years ago, but can't really now.
11 August 2008
Cèdre by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido
Give this scent five minutes and you are in for a treat. It's cedarwood essence at best though -- the tuberose dominates along with a lovely sensual amber. The sillage is fine and the longevity outstanding. I think this is now my favourite of the SL range that I have tried. Probably better for cooler months.Beautiful.
08 August 2008
Néroli Sauvage by Creed
This is a lovely rendition of the orange leaf resin with a slightly musky / woody drydown. The value for money aspect forces me to give a neutral though. There are equally superb orange blossom scents out there at a fraction of the price.
08 August 2008
L'Air de Rien by Miller Harris
Scrub it off? Blimey!
I really think this is rather lovely and the notes work beautifully together -- its a captivating sweet oriental and perfectly ok for men. It lasts all day and the drydown is to die for. This needs checking out.
I really think this is rather lovely and the notes work beautifully together -- its a captivating sweet oriental and perfectly ok for men. It lasts all day and the drydown is to die for. This needs checking out.
07 August 2008
Eau de Gloire by Parfum d'Empire
Didn't really like this when I tested. The top notes were fleeting to say the least and it quickly dived into a rather sharp and harsh leathery mixture. The sillage is pretty big also, so was rather enveloped in it. Not for me.
01 August 2008
Rochas Man by Rochas
Really nicely mixed coffee and vanilla fragrance, i.e. not too sweet and cloying and probably the best of this now overused note. Not good for hot weather though, it's more of a comfort scent. Coffee / chocolate -- it's all a bit passe now.
25 July 2008
Eau de Cartier Concentrée by Cartier
Not a great fan of Cartier fragrances normally, but this one is ok. It's very green and almost vegetal and doesn't change all that much except to soften slightly, which in my opinion improves the scent. It is completely bone dry though and I think I need at least a scintilla of sweetness in fragrances I use now. Not bad.
24 July 2008
Castile by Penhaligon's
Sharp as a knife citrus opening that is very ADP, but better and quite beautiful. It then brings in some floral notes quite quickly and that's it. It then remains very linear for the duration. No problems with longevity or sillage. If you like the opening 5-10 minutes--buy it, as you won't find a better rendition.
23 July 2008
Ruban d'Orange by L'Occitane
This is not half as good as the beautiful 'Feu D'Orange Intense' from the same company, but doesn't seem to be listed with Basenotes. FDO has Sicilian Blood Oranges underpinned by vetiver and lasts for ever. I can't find L'Oranger Neroli anymore either.
Kaern
Kaern
14 July 2008
Sanguine Muskissime by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier
It is a lovely opening citrusy aroma, but is painfully evanescent and barely discernible after a couple of hours, so not really very cost effective if you want to experience all day. Have to thumbs down on that basis alone. For less than half the price you can experience the rather sublime 'Feu D'Orange Intense' - Sicilian blood oranges with a base of vetiver, from L'Occitane and won't have to think about refreshing at all.
Kaern
Kaern
14 July 2008
Tangerine Vert by Miller Harris
Lovely for the summer, a perfect rendition of tangerines that really fizzes. It's a bit of a one-trick pony though with no noticeable changes in the dry-down except to soften. Not sure it justifies the big price for the above reason, but have to thumbs-up for it's rendition alone.
Kaern
Kaern
11 July 2008
Joop! Homme by Joop!
Is this a default option for men? Come on, you can't use Christmas presents as an excuse for ever. Truly vile. Nuff said.
Kaern
Kaern
11 July 2008
Navegar by L'Artisan Parfumeur
This is unbelievable -- firstly an aquatic + spicy burst (no joke) which quickly changes into a cedary/incensey aroma. Errr, then it's Mechant Loup for a while and then it just bounces all over the place with ginger, star anise popping in and out amongst the deep nuttiness. A liberal spray produces good longevity and sillage on me. This is a very mood driven fragrance I think, but astonishingly brilliant. Becoming hard to find outside L'Artisan stores, but needs to be hunted down for sure.
Kaern
Kaern
11 July 2008
Charmes et Feuilles by Different Company
Went in search of Bahiana, but production problems with that forced me to look elsewhere and boy am I glad I came across this gem. Wonderful top notes of jasmin, clementine and grapefruit moving into a jasmin sambac, pepper, sage and patchouli wonderland with the citrus notes still hanging around in the background. Perfect for summer. Beautiful.
Kaern
Kaern
11 July 2008
John Varvatos by John Varvatos
This one errs on the generic side but the rich christmas cake fruitiness just tips it back. Not normally what I would seek out but the drydown is very acceptable and it definitely has something about it. Women seem to love this more than me -- it is unashamedly masculine. Won't go back to it, but have to thumbs up.
Kaern
Kaern
11 July 2008
Envy for Men by Gucci
If I had to guess blindly what house produced this, I would have gone for Gucci or D&G -- it's so over the top and synthetic with it. Also, I find it incredibly dated for some reason. It wears you down -- with it's heaviness. Nyet -- something wrong here. Pass.
Kaern
Kaern
11 July 2008
Héritage by Guerlain
Big, boozy opening -- smells very distinctive. It then settles down somewhat to a spicy ambery note, which is not gentle -- heavy sillage also. It does have a rather formal feel and it's one of those fragrances that you either love or hate. I'm of the former choice, but it's not something I would turn to as much as others. Better for cooler months.
Kaern
Kaern
25 June 2008
Isfarkand pour Homme by Ormonde Jayne
I'm afraid another OJ non laster and I spray liberally. Also, the scent itself isn't that distinctive -- a citrus burst followed by peppers with a woody base. The peppers in 'Nicole Fahri for men' are far superior though and much cheaper. OJ for men is better, but again, fleeting. It's a lovely little shop with very friendly staff -- it's a shame the fragrances don't match the ambience.
Kaern
Kaern
20 June 2008
Endymion by Penhaligon's
Rather over-hyped fragrance imo. It gives off a rather bland so-so spicy, sage-heavy opening, then am unable to identify any different middle notes, especially any aroma resembling coffee (uh?). However, the base has a pretty good leathery finish. If a fragrance could be described as 'snooty' this is it. If you can find cheaper, but not as fashionable, versions that you like, I would go for them. There are much better alternatives in Penhaligon's range -- Castile and Opus for a start.
Kaern
Kaern
18 June 2008
Sandalo by Etro
A true and honest rendition of sandalwood, which gradually evolves into a more ambery drydown. Longevity is good although the sillage is a little shy. It is a quite linear fragrance though, which is a little surprising from Etro. If it wasn't for the sublime 'Santal Noble' by MPG this would be at the top of my sandalwood fragrances list.
Kaern
Kaern
18 June 2008
Rocabar by Hermès
A rather anonymous scent from Hermes -- it's almost as if it has been run through with sugary water. It's a pleasant enough cool, coniferous (pine, cedar) aroma, but lacks any kind of depth or half-decent sillage and is basically bland. A big surprise from Hermes who can usually be relied upon to be at least interesting with their creations, i.e Equipage (valiant but flawed) and Bel-Ami (valiant and not flawed).
Kaern
Kaern
17 June 2008
Chevalier d'Orsay by D'Orsay
Had high hopes with this one, but ultimately was disappointed. The opening is a very nicely concocted citrus and herbal mixture, but from then on, I'm not inspired. I am not keen on the overtly 'masculine' lavender that penetrates throughout -- it's slightly musty imo -- I realise the scent formula is old, but it just smells 'old'. The florals and wood that try and poke through later don't really underpin very well, especially the iris. I seem to be the 'party pooper' here and, to be fair, a lot of the notes used are not great favourites of mine -- nevertheless I won't be purchasing.
Kaern
Kaern
17 June 2008
Bois de Filao by Comptoir Sud Pacifique
Filao must be a rather fragrant sweet wood -- don't expect a 'Sequoia' here. It actually reminds me a bit of 'Chene' by SL. It almost drifts to the feminine side, but not quite. It's really very nice to wear and lasts a good time on me. Not for strictly wood lovers though, I would think.
Kaern
Kaern
16 June 2008
L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme by Guerlain
This is 'Heritage Light' in my opinion and none the worse for that. I don't really get much chocolate although it is there in the background but I do get a citrusy/lemony opening which evolves quickly with a spicy kick (peppers) and a lovely wood note together with another note which I can't quite identify, but helps the fragrance brilliantly. I have re-visited after many years and L'instant is still outstanding. (It puts to shame some of the overpriced, lasts one hour, efforts of Creed's edt's, which are a complete rip-off -millesimes excluded). The sillage and longevity are excellent with L'instant and this fragrance, in either form, should be a pre-requisite in every man's collection. A Joy.
Kaern
Kaern
13 June 2008
212 Men by Carolina Herrera
The fall from grace after the rather lovely 'Herrera for Men' is egregious. Talk about being populist and chasing the money -- this is a nailed on 'what women like to smell on a man' notion, rather than what men would actually like to wear. It's generic laziness and smells ghastly. Avoid.
Kaern
Kaern
13 June 2008
Acqua di Colonia by Lorenzo Villoresi
I am not normally a citrus lover but this is really lovely and the neroli note is beautiful and totally dominant but softened in the drydown by the musk. It is actually nicer than ADP imo. I have just purchased in London, so not discontinued. Superb for summer.
Kaern
Kaern
29 May 2008
Pi by Givenchy
Pi feels unfinished to me. I mean, where's the supposed wood?-- what is magnetic wood? It's an inoffensive vanilla and not unpleasant, but doesn't really go anywhere. Bland is the word I am looking for. It doesn't create enough emotion to thumbs down it though.
Kaern
Kaern
28 May 2008
Blu Mediterraneo Tuscan Cypress / Cipresso di Toscana by Acqua di Parma
Beautiful and invigorating summer cypress fragrance. It's rather shy in it's sillage though and needs plenty of application -- not sure of longevity yet. If it lasts, it's a keeper for sure.
Kaern
Kaern
13 May 2008
Sun by Jil Sander
Don't get the Joop comparison at all (thank God). It's vanilla, spice and musk, brilliantly blended, but really fresh also. It's much nicer than the later men's version and I don't have a problem wearing it. Sillage and longevity are excellent. This seems to be a real sleeper and great value for money. Gorgeous!
Kaern
Kaern
12 May 2008
Beyond Paradise for Men by Estée Lauder
I'm afraid some houses treat their male fragrance buyers with utter contempt, i.e. any old rubbish will do. This is a case in point.
Kaern
Kaern
12 May 2008
Ferré for Him by Gianfranco Ferré
It's not groundbreaking or anything and is slightly generic, but not in a pushy, in your face way. This normally would raise alarm bells for me, but the fact is, for some reason -- I love it.
Kaern
Kaern
06 May 2008
Royal Delight by Creed
Gorgeous leathery floral. It is quite feminine to start with, but give it time and it becomes quite acceptable for men. It lasts and lasts (surprisisng for a Creed). It smells as though it is from another century -- fin de siecle. I've had a bit of a down with Creed fragrances in the past, but I have to accept that this is a masterpiece and worth every penny.
Kaern
Kaern
06 May 2008
Acier Aluminium by Creed
Oh Great -- lasts about 2 hours on me, which is par for this House (something should be said), but in this case I'm really pleased because it's a horrible mess -- case closed.
Kaern
Kaern
30 April 2008
Mûre et Musc by L'Artisan Parfumeur
Lovely blackberry and musk combination, which is so gentle and precious. I find it quite acceptable for a man to wear. Lasts all day, but sillage is quite low. I should have gone for the extreme version as it is totally enchanting.
Kaern
Kaern
29 April 2008
Voleur de Roses by L'Artisan Parfumeur
Rose thief is actually an apt name -- I can't detect a rose scent anywhere. Smells a bit like damp earth though -- if that's what you like. Try Costes or Rossy de Palma for better results re rose. Hugely disappointing.
Kaern
Kaern
29 April 2008
Tabac Blond by Caron
Top- Leather -- Middle-Leather -- Base - Leather/smoke. Nothing really that softens -- amber will just intensify -- this is the edp version. I think you would need to walk through a mist of it to make it tolerable. I can appreciate the innovativeness, but is really much too potent for me and as stated, very linear.
Kaern
Kaern
29 April 2008
Prada Amber pour Homme by Prada
Really different -- I don't know of any other fragrance that smells quite like this, which is quite bold of Prada really. I like the way the amber note is mixed into the florals and I don't find it that feminine at all. The women's version is more dark and masculine imo though --- it seems to focus on the leather and amber more. A nice surprise and the longevity is excellent.
Kaern
Kaern
22 April 2008
Ambre Extrême by L'Artisan Parfumeur
Not sure why I succumbed to this. I really prefer amber as a supplementary note, not a main dish. I thought it might settle down a bit, but that amber note kept giving plenty and I'm not that keen -- it's a bit jarring and slightly bitter imo. Can't thumbs down it though.
Kaern
Kaern
22 April 2008
Allure Homme Edition Blanche by Chanel
Not really a great fan of Chanel fragrances for men --- up to now! This starts very lemony, but gradually dries down to a soft wood & vanilla with the sicilian lemon still hanging on. Must admit I don't get all the notes listed, especially the ginger and amber. It's a work of art though and I really love it.
Kaern
Kaern
22 April 2008
Alessandro Dell'Acqua Man by Alessandro Dell'Acqua
Disappointingly generic and therefore rather uninteresting fragrance aimed at the youth market. No more to say really.
Kaern
Kaern
22 April 2008
Costes by Hôtel Costes
Gorgeous lavender/spice opening which quickly settles down to rose. But a beautiful, incensed tinged black rose. Smells similar to the Diptyque rose (Opone, i think), but far superior and easier to wear. A queen in the garden. Stunning!
Kaern
Kaern
22 April 2008
Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa by Acqua di Parma
All men should try this at least once. All the attributes of the original, but with a nice woody drydown. Total class.
Kaern
Kaern
21 April 2008
8 88 by Comme des Garçons
I have changed my mind about this fragrance. It's not really happening for me. After the initial spray, well it's hard to detect anything except maybe a weak peppery aroma. The secret is to wait for hours (it evolves all day) until something really emerges, which is the safraline (basically saffron), coriander and amber, which gives it an incensey feel. The first time I wore it, this was quite strong and heady, but the second time wasn't so. This is CDG's interpretation of what Gold should smell like and there is a metallic note running through it, which I'm not that keen on. Can't thumbs down though because the initial wearing was truly nice. It's a strange one.
Kaern
Kaern
18 April 2008
Sandalwood Cologne by Geo F Trumper
Errrr -- where's the sandalwood? It's a very leaden, clammy leathery floral on me and just sort of lays there like a lump, not sparking or moving anywhere. If you want sandalwood there are several others that fit the bill much better. I don't like this at all and I find the rest of the Trumper range that I've tested very disappointing (with the honourable exception of Eau de Quinine).
Kaern
Kaern
17 April 2008
Méchant Loup by L'Artisan Parfumeur
Lovely sweet nuttiness -- perfect for colder weather -- very distinctive. Lasts all day on me. It doesn't get much better than this for wood lovers.
Kaern
Kaern
17 April 2008
Un Parfum des Sens et Bois by Different Company
Sometimes words can't do justice, but that's not very helpful here. This is an absolutely wonderful fragrance. The top notes include Chinese cedarwood and black pepper and they mix magically. More notes as it progresses are patchouli, vervain, violet, bergamot and incense -- it is a heady experience. It reminds me very much of Lanvin's Arpege but with an extra spicy kick generated by the peppers and is altogether superior. I believe that in time, this could be in the top 10 of best ever fragrances ever created -- it's that good. Stunning!
Kaern
Kaern
16 April 2008
Opium pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent
It's horrible -- wouldn't even use it as a room spray. Comes on really harsh and synthetic with a sort of sour spice aroma, then settles into vanilla, but still the sourness persists. I suppose you could call it edgy or difficult and I'm all for that sometimes -- but it's just plain unpleasant. Could be used if dropped in hot water and inhaled when you have a cold.
From a House that brought us Live Jazz and M7 Fresh, it's hard to fathom.
From a House that brought us Live Jazz and M7 Fresh, it's hard to fathom.
15 April 2008
Dunhill Pursuit by Alfred Dunhill
Lovely take on orange (with spices) that settles on a bed of sandalwood later (don't really get any musk). It is a truly nice but not groundbreaking fragrance -- longevity and sillage both excellent. On a par with Dunhill (2003) and Edition (found recently gathering dust in Harvey Nicks in the Dunhill accessories concession) imo and better than latest offering (London).
Kaern
Kaern
14 April 2008
Versace l'Homme by Versace
Wore this a few years ago and really liked. I remember thinking it was a bit dark and dangerous and that it evolved into this (amber/patchouli) from a fresh citrusy opening. I love fragrances when they move like this (size of the essence molecules?). It's definitely the best male fragrance imo from what is admittedly a pretty moderate range from this House and I will return to it soon, as it still stands up ok in the 2000's.
Kaern
Kaern
14 April 2008
The Dreamer by Versace
Not sure with this one. I like the warmth of the basenotes, but it takes quite a long time to get there and even then it's a little cloying. I would prefer to wear Cristobal PH, when I'm wanting something sweet and sexy.
Kaern
Kaern
14 April 2008
Teck by Molinard
Teck is available at Harvey Nichols (London) -- 4th Floor -- £45 for 100ml. It is a little old-school, but still smells lovely. Very strong sillage though -- apply carefully. Reminds me very much of one of the Carthusia range (so they copied), but less harsh
Kaern
Kaern
14 April 2008
Jaïpur Homme by Boucheron
Sweet oriental that smells lovely, but is a bit powdery and stuffy imo -- also don't get much heliotrope amongst the spices. I can't seem to wear it for too long without getting bored with it and this doesn't happen with fragrances I truly like/love. The 'fraiche' version is preferable but didn't finish the 100ml of that either.
Kaern
Kaern
09 April 2008
Tamboti Wood by Susanne Lang
Smelt lovely on the tester (soft rich wood) but not so when applied to my skin. It had a sort of greasy sheen and longevity/sillage was poor. Don't see it as feminine at all. It reminded me of Encre Noir by Lalique, which is preferable imo and much better value for money.
Kaern
Kaern
09 April 2008
Bogart pour Homme by Jacques Bogart
A bit sharper than Cristobal -- a sort of sweet tobacco with vanilla and yes -- rum. Sillage and longevity both excellent. Very, very nice.
Kaern
Kaern
09 April 2008
Daim Blond by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido
A bit boring really -- don't get much leather unless a very sweet suede compensates. It's not unpleasant, just too sweet with not much else happening.
Kaern
Kaern
09 April 2008
Grain de Plaisir by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier
Beautiful and uplifting opening. A 'moment of pleasure' hardly does justice. The drydown is a bit scratchy compared to the first half-hour, but the benchmark is very, very high here. Almost a masterpiece.
Kaern
Kaern
08 April 2008
Cittá di Kyoto by Santa Maria Novella
Quite weak throughout all it's stages -- lovely top notes though. It then becomes ephemeral and after 2-3 hours, a barely discernible soft peach. I don't want or should need to re-apply at this price. Actually found a lot of the range disappointing after all the hype heaped. Melograno was nice though (but will it last?)
Kaern
Kaern
07 April 2008
10 Corso Como by 10 Corso Como
Harsher version of Vettiveru on me. I'm surprised it is registered as 'feminine'. Stays all day though and sillage is good -- doesn't soften at all -- also very sexy imo. Cute bottle.
Kaern
Kaern
07 April 2008
Charogne by Etat Libre d'Orange
Can't escape the foetid note -- there's something rotten or rotting at the heart. If that was taken out it would be gorgeous. Exquisite Corpse.
Kaern
Kaern
04 April 2008
Arabie by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido
Unnecessarily complicated -- too much going on with these spices -- it's trying too hard. A mess basically, but not altogether unpleasant if in the mood.
Kaern
Kaern
04 April 2008
À la Nuit by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido
Astonishing take on Jasmine -- sensual, heady and great sillage. It's a shame, but I don't think I could pull it off -- as it veers towards the feminine just too much.
Kaern
Kaern
04 April 2008
Dzongkha by L'Artisan Parfumeur
It's said that people have no patience anymore, but I'm certainly not hanging around for this to settle down into something tolerable. Not a patch on Timbuktu, which is like honey compared to this furnace for the nose.
Kaern
Kaern
04 April 2008
Santal Noble by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier
Wonderful smooth sweet sandalwood -- the best take on it I have experienced and even better than Etro's Sandalo. The drydown is gorgeous -- enveloping you in an aura of vanilla, amber and wood -- almost magical. Sillage and longevity are excellent for me.
Kaern
Kaern
04 April 2008
parfums*PARFUMS Series 3 Incense: Kyoto by Comme des Garçons
It's like being in a very old room or gallery that has lacqeured wood surrounds. Best of the Incense range by a mile.
Kaern
Kaern
03 April 2008
Van Cleef & Arpels pour Homme by Van Cleef & Arpels
Whoa -- too much for me -- I'm not a fat cat big game hunter. It's a lovely, spicy rich scent but way too powerful and of its time I think -- this will clear a train carriage no problem.
Kaern
Kaern
03 April 2008
Comme des Garçons White by Comme des Garçons
Fantastic juice with a lovely dry down. Powerful and icy from beginning to end with a touch of incense thrown in with the rose. Have re-visited twice, but looking for 888 next time.
Kaern
Kaern
03 April 2008
White Jasmine & Mint by Jo Malone
I get mainly mint all the way through with just a hint of florals. It's pleasant enough and I'll use the 30ml I purchased, but won't go back for more. The JM range seems to lack something imo -- maybe depth. What you smell on the card is what you get at the end -- there are no moves I can detect - if you like the initial burst, you'll be fine. The Honeysuckle is lovely for women though.
Kaern
Kaern
03 April 2008
Live Jazz by Yves Saint Laurent
Ummm -- Lemon and Grapefruit -- Lovely and refreshing opening with the mint not far behind gives a nice kick. Really nice for the warmer months and will purchase again along with Bahiana for this summer. Longevity and sillage both good on me.
Is this the same house who produced Opium PH?
Kaern
Is this the same house who produced Opium PH?
Kaern
02 April 2008
Fumerie Turque by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido
Big, thick smokey sweetness -- the best from SL that I've tried anyway and there are subtle changes happening on the journey -- variations of silky smokey spices. Really lovely to wear -- longevity excellent on me.
Kaern
Kaern
02 April 2008
Héliotrope Blanc by Piver
Lovely take on heliotrope -- enfolds you in it's warmth. A man could easily pull this off -- I mean the Etro version is 'unisex' and this retails at a third of the price for 100ml. Les Senteurs have it along with a few others from Piver.
Highly recommended!
Kaern
Highly recommended!
Kaern
02 April 2008
Roberto Cavalli Black by Roberto Cavalli
This is one dark sexy beast that keeps giving. Nicest take on amber I have come across. Not groundbreaking, but after previous offerings -- it's like stumbling over a gold bar.
Kaern
Kaern
02 April 2008
Play by Comme des Garçons
There's been a lot of harsh words said about 'Play' elsewhere, but I find the inital citrus burst lovely with the orange/lime mellowing out nicely to a more spicy/citrus drydown. It is probably the most accessible and easy to wear of their range and is not really 'edgy', but the projection is hot, along with the aroma. Lasts all day!
Kaern
Kaern
02 April 2008
Cristobal pour Homme by Balenciaga
It's sweet alright -- don't get any petrol smell though, just a beautiful waft now and again . Lasts forever! I think it's only produced in 100ml now and rumours of it being discontinued are strong.
Indulge!
Kaern
Indulge!
Kaern
02 April 2008
parfums*PARFUMS Series 4 Cologne: Vettiveru by Comme des Garçons
Lovely fresh vetiver cologne with a touch of sweetness. It lasts all day on me with a liberal splash. Really good value also, which is saying something from CDG.
02 April 2008












