 | Jeux de Peau by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal ShiseidoIt'a all been said really -- buttery sweet gourmand, slightly Bois Farine like, but less likeable.What is really depressing though is that Jeax de Peau smells like an amalgam of other Lutens fragrances and lacks any individuality, so I'm not really sure why it's been created. A couple of recent offerings from this House have been totally underwhelming and this is one of them. I hope they pull things round as SL has previously produced some stunning, groundbreaking work. 3rd February, 2012. |
 | Coromandel by ChanelHad great hopes with Coromandel after wearing the delicious vetiver - Sycomore from the same range. However, I found all the notes and accords, especially the amber and patchouli way too powerful. In fact, the opening five minutes was almost unbearable in it's stridency. The drydown is ok, but I found the vanilla note used here a touch sickly, almost Givenchy PI like. If this had copied the subtleness of Bois des Iles, I think it would have been much improved. Awarding a neutral is being generous, but it isn't a bad fragrance, just not for me. 31st January, 2012. |
 | Eau d'Hadrien by Annick GoutalAfter slagging off pretty much the whole Goutal range in a recent review, I think Eau D'Hadrien needs a bit of defending although I still stand by my earlier comments. But, I am now going to add this fragrance and Eau du Sud as the only bottle worthy ones -- for me anyway. I don't get the 'lemon pledge' note at the top -- I like the lemon mixed with the grapefruit. I also get a strong woody vibe late on and this is pretty normal with hesperides, but it's a fresh cypressy note which gives it another lift. The longevity on me is outstanding -- a full day and more. Ok, it's not going to blow your socks off -- citruses rarely do, but for the price, I would take it over the several Creed versions at least and save half my money. 10th January, 2012. |
| | Eau d'Iparie by L'OccitaneWhat a gorgeous little present I received for Christmas. I thought it was gioing to open up very dry, dusty and nose tingling, but it's quite sweet and rosey with just a mere hint of patchouli. The drydown is where this fragrance is at though with the waxy labdanum, myrhh and vanilla coming in to their own. The end is a wonderful accord of notes, masterly blended. 29th December, 2011. |
| | Eau Noire Cologne by Christian DiorIt's all a question of degree, I suppose. I don't like Immortelle unless used sparingly, not a great fan of full-on lavender (except crushed in hand) and I can take or leave anice and deep vanilla. I have also never liked New Haarlem enough to purchase. Taking all this into account and the truly skanky, nose twisting opening notes in this fragrance, it's gonna be a thumbs down for sure. I gave it some time though and it blossomed into a fantastic amalgam of curry powder, lavender, licorice and vanilla, which works like a dream. 28th December, 2011. |
| | Angel by Thierry MuglerThere are certain accords in fragrances, similar to a specific chord change in music, which knock you off your feet. I won't bore everyone by listing some though. There is a moment in Angel which sent shivers down my spine. This is when, about 5 minutes in, the blackcurrant/peach note emerges from the fog of chocolate and patchouli -- it is truly exquisite. For one instance, I was thinking I could pull this off, but the rather long and powerful drydown is too feminine for me. This was the EDP and it is very potent. That burgeoning accord, while it lasted, deserves a thumbs up on its own. 8th November, 2011. |
| | Fille en Aiguilles by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal ShiseidoA rich, resinous mixture of pine, frankincense, amber and to my mind, mulled wine. Lasts for ever it seems and is a 'go to' fragrance for the coming winter. 7th November, 2011. |
| | Duel by Annick GoutalI've tried hard to like any fragrance in the Annick Goutal line, but only Eau du Sud comes close to being a purchase. Duel doesn't change things one iota. The Mate kills off any sparkle in the citrus notes and it stays as flat as dishwater thereafter. Very dull. 17th October, 2011. |
| | L'Ombre dans L'Eau by DiptyqueI truly believe that 75% of Diptyque's 'fragrances' shouldn't be sprayed onto skin at all. They are much too strident close up and would be better employed as room smells. I make an exception with L'Ombre -- it's slightly more subdued making personal use enjoyable. I also usually steer clear of intensely green scents as a general rule. However, the combination here of the green and rose notes is blindingly beautiful. 17th October, 2011. |
| | B by BloodI rate this as the best of the line by a pretty wide margin and purchased immediately. The top notes are very lovely -- peppers and cherry syrup and the patchouli is tempered nicely by the woods in the drydown. Lasts for ages. The whole concept is for the fairies, but I suppose you have to try something new to get the line into Liberty's. Big thumbs up for the fragrance though. 17th October, 2011. |
| | Rien by Etat Libre d'OrangeBelieve it or not, Rien is like Knize Ten cranked up tenfold. It's a very powerful deep and dark animalic leather with no softening edges. I couldn't wear Rien comfortably, but some love it. It tends to polarise, so I am going to give it a neutral - ha ha. 30th September, 2011. |
| | Fougère Royale by HoubigantI really doubt whether this is anything like the original. Basically, it's way too busy and trying too hard. Fougeres are hardly shy, especially aromatic ones, but this cries out for some subtlety. It still smells pretty good and is definitely a bracing experience, but I'm not sure it warrants the £100 asking price as cheaper alternatives are numerous. 6th September, 2011. |
| | Tuscan Leather by Tom FordNow, I really loved wearing Hot Leather by Mark Buxton and Nostalgia by SMN, but for some reason, I found Tuscan Leather rather disgusting, especially as it progressed. Beats me. 6th September, 2011. |
| | West Side by Bond No. 9Rose in the top notes only -- no way. The rose lasts right through to the end. I have an aversion to straightforward rose scents -- they usually give me a headache, but West Side has enough boozy and sweetish elements to make it very acceptable to me. I was toying with New Haarlem again as an Autumn scent, but I just don't get on with it. West Side is a very underrated fragrance. 6th September, 2011. |
| | Labdanum 18 / Ciste 18 by Le LaboWhat do you know -- Le Labo have actually represented pretty well within the fragrance the name on the bottle. That resinous amber note softened by vanilla is very nice indeed. I can't smell a single trace of birch tar either -- it's not a leather scent. Rich and heady -- I love it. 6th September, 2011. |
| | L'Homme Sage by DivineThe only negative comments I have about L'Homme Sage is that it is rather bare and bony. That aside, it is one of the most beautiful mens fragrances money can buy. 6th September, 2011. |
| | Vanithé by Nez à NezI can't understand all the opprobium heaped on this scent. Admittedly, it's a fairly simple premise of tea and vanilla, but it is very well blended. It lasts for ages on me also and leaves a lovely sillage in it's wake. Imo, totally unisex. I have received amazingly positive comments from the fairer sex when wearing this, so can't be all bad. 6th September, 2011. |
| | L'Eau du Navagateur by L'Artisan ParfumeurSupposedly the first fragrance to use a coffee note and it's there at the top for a nanosecond only. It then becomes a pleasant, smoky tobacco infused with some soapiness in the drydown. A thumbs up for the fragrance on this basis,although it's a well worn road now, but don't buy this expecting an alternative to New Haarlem, for example. 6th September, 2011. |
| | Verveine / Lemon Verbena / Eau de Verveine by HeeleyMost 'verveine' fragrances usually plump for a solid lemon representation -- and little else unfortunately. It's there in the opening with Heeley's but is quickly joined by a whole bunch of stemones and berries. An astonishing first 30 minutes, which is almost matched by the woody musk drydown. I hummed and haahed between this, Hippie Rose and Sel Marin and Verveine won out -- it's a serious fragrance. No longevity issues for me either. 7th July, 2011. |
| | Noël au Balcon by Etat Libre d'OrangeMmmmmmm -- spicy cookies . Love it up. Wears really well. One caveat -- it seems to have a floral musk as the drydown, which is unusual. Well it is ELdO. 7th July, 2011. |
| | Yuzu Man by CaronTotally disagree with the previous reviewer. The yuzu flower has a gorgeous citrusy fragrance and Richard Fraysse has done a great job in representing it here for Caron. I have worn both Yuzu Fou and Yuzu ab Irato, but I think this sparkling version tops them both and is a lot cheaper.A lovely wood based drydown goes on forever. Terrific work. 7th July, 2011. |
| | 1 Million by Paco RabanneBlond leather -- White woods. The SS would have liked this. 6th June, 2011. |
| | Cuir de Russie by PiverThis has been re-formulated and repackaged and re-named. It's now just called Cuir. It's a sweeter leather and I like it very much. Honey is tricky to achieve in fragrances as it smells a lot like piss, but it's done well here. What with all the makeovers, you would expect the price to rise also -- it has. 6th June, 2011. |
| | Optimistic for Him by Paul SmithSorry, Paul -- this is boring generic dreck. 6th June, 2011. |
| | Habanita by MolinardI love this scent from beginning to end. I get incense smoke over peaches at the beginning -- extraordinary-- then it gradually changes into a fruity vetiver vanilla leather concoction. Amazing work 6th June, 2011. |
| | Ambre Précieux by Maître Parfumeur et GantierIf, like me, you don't like amber to be the main player in a fragrance, I suggest that Jean Laporte's masterpiece will suit. AP has none of the bitterness I often find in other amber fragrances being supplanted with a rich, heady vanilla instead of the usual Casbah spices. It's not overly sweet though -- it's just right. Monster sillage and longevity. 6th June, 2011. |
| | Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune by GuerlainGrapefruit is very hard to pull off in perfumery -- it can turn rank quite quickly if not careful. This is the best rendition I know and is simply wonderful -- very long lasting on me, which also surprised me. 6th June, 2011. |
| | 02 Owari by Odin New YorkCitrus or hesperide fragrances are pretty much inhibited by their genre, i.e. 1.the variation of citrus notes that can be used and 2.can they keep the citric elements going until the end or is it all over after a couple of hours with usually a woody element taking over. On me, Owari is an unusually deep and penetrating hesperide that lasts for ages and is piercingly beautiful -- the blending is top class and only in the very late stages are amber and cedar used to keep it alive. I rate this citrus fragrance up with the very best, which includes Eau de Guerlain and the Hermes concentrated version. Other top class citruses include Monseiur Balmain, Eau de New York from Bond, the unusual Taormine from Keiko Mercheri and the really wonderful Corallium from Carthusia. If you like citruses, all of the above should be in your collection. 17th May, 2011. |
| | Carnal Flower by Editions de Parfums Frederic MalleI'm going slightly against the grain here. Admittedly, Carnal Flower is a fine rendition of the tuberose flower and I wore all of the sample I received. However, Dominique Ropion hasn't called it 'Carnal' for nothing. There is a hint of 'decadence' here, which equates to a slightly overblown or overripe note, probably within the musks, which harks back to some of the famous 'classics'. It's a small caveat but worth mentioning. I'll stick to 'Beyond Love' for my floral fix. 10th May, 2011. |
| | (Untitled) by Martin MargielaIt was being promoted as unisex in House, so not sure of the subsequent categorisation. Really sharp galbanum to open up, about the greenest opening I've experienced -- not my cup of tea though. I waited for a while and all I got in the drydown was a faint hint of orange blossom and some woods. The sales team had some fronds that you could smell, supposedly a realistic rendition of the base notes, but it wasn't what I got off my skin-- I wish it had been as it was very nice. Very green, very dry, but too harsh for me. I'm not really 'neutral' about it, but it isn't a bad scent. 10th May, 2011. |
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