Fragrance Reviews
Fragrance Reviews by iMaverick
Showing all 207 reviews
David Yurman Eau de Parfum by David Yurman
There is something in this scent that just throws me off. I don't think it's in the top notes, but to me it smells like muguet, but then again it could be a combination of Water Lily and Peony, although I do like Peony...so does it mean it's the Water Lily? After a half hour it does settle and it does smell a bit better, but no doubt it smells like what people consider a modern chypre. The scent is not meant to be cute, but somewhat refined and sophisticated a-a-and I suppose elegant. I wanted to use the word "tasteful", but really it's not my kind of scent I could really get into and appreciate. On another point of view, maybe it's just my skin lacking something that doesn't meld well with this type of scent. The basenotes are rather quiet and supporting but doesn't assert itself in the end. I'd like to say this kinda like has an 80s vibe to it. Good direction I suppose, but doesn't hit the mark.
12 August 2008
Sensuous by Estée Lauder
I bought this blind after reading positive regards to this scent. I'm a definite Amber fiend!
At first spray, there was barely any recognizable floral traces, perhaps the Magnolia, but nothing at all for anyone to be alarmed about to think this may be a flowerbomb. As a matter of fact, this can really come across as foody at first--creamy, I mean REALLY CREAMY. After an hour or so, you finally catch its woody nuances, I'm thinking cedar and patchouli. For a while I was thinking it would be one dimensional and solid like a piece of Werther's candy all the way, but when the woods make an appearance, the magic begins.
It really reminded me of the pastry like, creamy and ambery goodness of Serge Lutens' Douce Amere, though I find Douce Amere much more interesting and less "solidified". Sensuous finishes off with a vanilla-musk trail 6 or so hours later on me. I know I won't wear it too often for fear of gourmand cavities.
One spray will reveal its woody qualities and sensual warm tones. Two sprays or more will give you a sugary headache. Spicy nuances would've been great to add more dimension, like a chai tea note. You can't help but feel so relaxed and at ease with yourself wearing this. Definitely worth a try!
At first spray, there was barely any recognizable floral traces, perhaps the Magnolia, but nothing at all for anyone to be alarmed about to think this may be a flowerbomb. As a matter of fact, this can really come across as foody at first--creamy, I mean REALLY CREAMY. After an hour or so, you finally catch its woody nuances, I'm thinking cedar and patchouli. For a while I was thinking it would be one dimensional and solid like a piece of Werther's candy all the way, but when the woods make an appearance, the magic begins.
It really reminded me of the pastry like, creamy and ambery goodness of Serge Lutens' Douce Amere, though I find Douce Amere much more interesting and less "solidified". Sensuous finishes off with a vanilla-musk trail 6 or so hours later on me. I know I won't wear it too often for fear of gourmand cavities.
One spray will reveal its woody qualities and sensual warm tones. Two sprays or more will give you a sugary headache. Spicy nuances would've been great to add more dimension, like a chai tea note. You can't help but feel so relaxed and at ease with yourself wearing this. Definitely worth a try!
06 August 2008
Un Jardin Après La Mousson by Hermès
Pretty accurate name for the nasal impression I got when I first smelled it.
To me, it's that instant in the after the rain, thick clouds that have lingered are soon dissipated by the sun shining its way through. The garden smells fresh and green, the impression of cool, wet air comes from the melon note. The cumin and ginger notes are the earth that once was parched is now drenched, giving off it's spicy earthy smell. Being juxtaposed to the melon note keeps the cumin from giving off a sweaty impression as it most times does with other fragrances.
I do get a slight salty tang, not quite like sea air as it develops when scent warms over, but more like the earth beginning to dry, but ever so slightly and not like how some reviewers have described wearing it where it becomes too much to bear.
The scent cools off again, a cool cedar and remnants of the cumin and aquatic notes seems to dominate the base, calming and meditative.
The scent overall was well crafted, although for those who really do not appreciate the melon note would probably be happier with a cool mint or some other green note to create that impression of cool wet air and earth. As with Ellena's other creations, the scent is unfussy and never ever daring or brow-raising, but as always, seems to spark pleasant sensations directly to the brain.
The scent of course doesn't shout, but it's tenacity is quite remarkable. I still smelled its drydown notes after 6 hours. One of the very few fresh frags that will stand up to Summer's heat and humidity. A great addition to the Hermes "Jardin" line.
To me, it's that instant in the after the rain, thick clouds that have lingered are soon dissipated by the sun shining its way through. The garden smells fresh and green, the impression of cool, wet air comes from the melon note. The cumin and ginger notes are the earth that once was parched is now drenched, giving off it's spicy earthy smell. Being juxtaposed to the melon note keeps the cumin from giving off a sweaty impression as it most times does with other fragrances.
I do get a slight salty tang, not quite like sea air as it develops when scent warms over, but more like the earth beginning to dry, but ever so slightly and not like how some reviewers have described wearing it where it becomes too much to bear.
The scent cools off again, a cool cedar and remnants of the cumin and aquatic notes seems to dominate the base, calming and meditative.
The scent overall was well crafted, although for those who really do not appreciate the melon note would probably be happier with a cool mint or some other green note to create that impression of cool wet air and earth. As with Ellena's other creations, the scent is unfussy and never ever daring or brow-raising, but as always, seems to spark pleasant sensations directly to the brain.
The scent of course doesn't shout, but it's tenacity is quite remarkable. I still smelled its drydown notes after 6 hours. One of the very few fresh frags that will stand up to Summer's heat and humidity. A great addition to the Hermes "Jardin" line.
28 July 2008
Dirty English by Juicy Couture
You smell mostly citrus and cedar with this one. What I thought to be a patchouli note might be the sweaty aspects of the agarwood. It's not dark, but a bit of the obsessively clean and the dirty sexy all rolled up into one. I was impressed with it on first sniff, enjoying its fresh woodiness. Terre d'Hermes was dry as a bone, but the citrus in this eases the loghouse scent impression. Good job for their first Mens scent.
02 July 2008
Ange ou Démon by Givenchy
I didn't care to give this one a sniff when first hearing about this. Angel or Devil made me think that it would be too gimicky and probably not too memorable enough to warrant a sniff. I was wrong. I can't say it is a strange scent, but I would think this scent is definitely different. It starts off bold, a bit smoky and a bit leather like with saffron accents veiled with a bright note of mandarin. It begins deep, and yes, devilish, then the more sweet and tender aspects of lily and orchid emerge. These florals are not punctuated, but seem to keep a neutral aspect against the woods and vanilla. I keep thinking the composition keeps playing with masculine and feminine aspects as well. Sweet and woody, much like Xeryus Rouge. As the lighter floral notes relax and start to dissipate, the base does become very sweet and candyish with an undertone of patchouli before finally leaving deep woody traces. Ange ou Demon? I still don't know. The both seem to keep me fixated and entranced.
02 July 2008
L'OCCITAN by L'Occitane
A quieter family member compared to Eau des Baux, who prefers more casual clothes, but definitely wants his shirt tails tucked in. He's more sophisticated than Eau de Badian and definitely less astringent by keeping the citrus notes in check. When I first tried it, I wasn't too pleased because I was expecting a pronounced lavender note, but I've come to appreciate its spicy, bark-like, incense notes which seem to keep from smouldering or smelling like dry wood shavings thanks to its patchouli cedar musk and tonka notes. Wear this if you want a sophisticated scent but prefer to keep it on the casual side.
25 June 2008
The One for Men by Dolce & Gabbana
Not groundbreaking, the general composition reminded me of Very Valentino for Men. The fresh citrus notes settle into spicy notes of cardamom, tobacco, patchouli and amber and pretty much stays that way. Rather heavy at first, but settles into a close to the skin scent for intimate occasions. The drydown is rather animalic with lingering notes of musk patchouli and cedar. Nice, but not THE One for me.
25 June 2008
A*Men Pure Coffee by Thierry Mugler
A Limited Edition flanker worthy of the "Angel" name. It starts off familiar to the original A*Men with a punch of bergamot, bitter coffee, and what seems to be that familiar rubbery "tar" and patchouli accord that's ever-so-present-forever in the original, but this opening quickly subdues itself and you catch a moment of what smells like lemon scented nail polish remover and mom's face powder. It settles into a spicy chai tea with milk smell with an undertone of lavender. Beautifully done, but what amazes me is the lack of that signature punch of patchouli that holds the scent together in all of his scents to the very end. It's there, but very minimal and is definitely not the last note you smell in Pure Coffee. Sadly it's a mostly quiet scent that disappears in 2 hours using 2 sprays to the same spot. No help when you spray it directly to clothes either. 2 sprays with the original A*Men can clear a closed room! Easily wearable for a year-round scent, but up the sillage and add more fixatives to the base please! Somehow it did remind me of Armani Attitude for Men, but not as textured or with those clean laundered notes juxtaposed to its dirtier notes of amber and patchouli. As short lived and subtle as Attitude was, Pure Coffee is even sheerer and weaker. Oh well, hopefully if it becomes a permanent offering, they might tinker with it a little, but I certainly doubt it. They certainly didn't do anything to A*Men Summer Flash when they renamed it Ice*Men as a permanent offering.
25 June 2008
Allure Homme Edition Blanche by Chanel
What the hell did they do with this scent? It's probably the vetiver that sticks out like a sore thumb to my nose. I even think that Homme Sport Cologne had a bigger Chanel imprint in the scent. And here I thought Cologne was a bit of blasphemy to the Allure name. I still think that Allure Homme Sport is the easiest to wear, and I think that I'm pretty much alone in thinking that it's a wonderful scent. I think many went running because the ad mentioned the "aquatic" word into the composition and a lot here at Basenotes went running because of it. HA! It's all in the head. Fraiche would've been the better word for Homme Sport.
Final word for Allure Homme Edition Blanche? Mediocre flanker that defiles a classic.
Final word for Allure Homme Edition Blanche? Mediocre flanker that defiles a classic.
19 April 2008
White Diamonds by Elizabeth Taylor
WOW! A true classic! White Diamonds is a white floral chypre with a powdery woody base...complex and slightly leathery. It reminds me of Chanel No. 22, but smells a lot more interesting to me. They don't smell the same mind you, but they both fall under the woody white floral category.
Each and every floral note reveals itself at the heart--it's amazing how the development reveals itself this way. And you can't help but love the trail of orris oakmoss and sandalwood on the drydown.
The EdT is quite strong in the beginning, and despite it being an EdT it does have the heft and longevity of an EdP. Very well done, you'd expect this creation from a notable fashion house, perhaps from the Dior or Givenchy or Balenciaga of old.
If you can't manage No. 5 or Miss Dior, perhaps this is not for you. I hope this can manage to be a classic in production for a very long time to come.
Each and every floral note reveals itself at the heart--it's amazing how the development reveals itself this way. And you can't help but love the trail of orris oakmoss and sandalwood on the drydown.
The EdT is quite strong in the beginning, and despite it being an EdT it does have the heft and longevity of an EdP. Very well done, you'd expect this creation from a notable fashion house, perhaps from the Dior or Givenchy or Balenciaga of old.
If you can't manage No. 5 or Miss Dior, perhaps this is not for you. I hope this can manage to be a classic in production for a very long time to come.
08 December 2007
Diamonds & Sapphires by Elizabeth Taylor
Notes described as a fresh cut floral bouquet of lily of the valley, rose, ylang-ylang, jasmine and spice. A later hint of musky sandalwood.
The freshest interpretation in the Diamonds & Precious Gem trio. It begins with an evident note of lily of the valley deepened with the note of ylang-ylang. As the fragrance further settles, a clear note of jasmine remains with only a hint of its woody trail. This scent doesn't try to overdo, a bit overwhelming at first, but its light floral trail fits any romantic and vivacious woman.
The freshest interpretation in the Diamonds & Precious Gem trio. It begins with an evident note of lily of the valley deepened with the note of ylang-ylang. As the fragrance further settles, a clear note of jasmine remains with only a hint of its woody trail. This scent doesn't try to overdo, a bit overwhelming at first, but its light floral trail fits any romantic and vivacious woman.
08 December 2007
Diamonds & Emeralds by Elizabeth Taylor
Notes listed are a blend of green floral top notes with white rose, water lily and gardenia, with lower notes of carnation and jasmine.
This starts off as a very, very lush floral with gardenia as the most evident note tempered ever so slightly with the lily. As the gardenia subsides, you detect the spicy edge of carnation which then reveals the facet of jasmine playing off the trail of water lily.
Very nice floral if you enjoy gardenia. I myself like how it smells, but it can get very cloying. Luckily this scent develops to more cleaner floral aspects of jasmine and lily at the end. Wish the carnation was more pronounced, but I understand that this scent was meant to be less formal compared to the original White Diamonds without sacrificing any of its romantic aspects. Perfect for the hopelessly romantic woman.
This starts off as a very, very lush floral with gardenia as the most evident note tempered ever so slightly with the lily. As the gardenia subsides, you detect the spicy edge of carnation which then reveals the facet of jasmine playing off the trail of water lily.
Very nice floral if you enjoy gardenia. I myself like how it smells, but it can get very cloying. Luckily this scent develops to more cleaner floral aspects of jasmine and lily at the end. Wish the carnation was more pronounced, but I understand that this scent was meant to be less formal compared to the original White Diamonds without sacrificing any of its romantic aspects. Perfect for the hopelessly romantic woman.
08 December 2007
Black Pearls by Elizabeth Taylor
Dark, powdery, smoky, leathery sitting atop a sexy sweetness...the notes are listed as a blend of soft sweet spices, white rose, and amber with fruity notes of fresh citrus and melons. Don't smell any of the citrus--melons, maybe.
Very different and sophisticated. That leathery note smells more like rubber at first, but it tones itself down to reveal the more powdery spicy and sweet aspects of the scent. I really appreciate this dark beautiful scent. Discontinued, but easily found everywhere for a steal.
Very different and sophisticated. That leathery note smells more like rubber at first, but it tones itself down to reveal the more powdery spicy and sweet aspects of the scent. I really appreciate this dark beautiful scent. Discontinued, but easily found everywhere for a steal.
08 December 2007
Diamonds & Rubies by Elizabeth Taylor
Not an overly complex oriental. websites list the notes as lilac, rose, peach, orchid, amber and vanilla. I also detect a spicy note of carnation as well as lower hints of oakmoss and musk at the base. The peach and lilac seems the most evident, while the rose is more powdery and subdued with a touch of green from the orchid.
Rich and sophisticated, the scent begins with a wooded and ambered floralcy with a spicy edge, it got me excited. I thought I would've enjoyed the smell of this a lot more, but as it develops, it loses its fire and there is an ennui about it, much like Guerlain's Mitsuoko with its peach and oakmoss facets, but lacks the woody strength, spicy ferocity and boldness of Mitsouko. Heavens no, they do not smell alike, I was just comparing the notes, folks.
There is a dark mystery about it, which will fit the woman who seems to see straight into your soul. Pass on this if you're looking for romantic, fresh, and/or bubbly.
Rich and sophisticated, the scent begins with a wooded and ambered floralcy with a spicy edge, it got me excited. I thought I would've enjoyed the smell of this a lot more, but as it develops, it loses its fire and there is an ennui about it, much like Guerlain's Mitsuoko with its peach and oakmoss facets, but lacks the woody strength, spicy ferocity and boldness of Mitsouko. Heavens no, they do not smell alike, I was just comparing the notes, folks.
There is a dark mystery about it, which will fit the woman who seems to see straight into your soul. Pass on this if you're looking for romantic, fresh, and/or bubbly.
08 December 2007
Oscar by Oscar de la Renta
Something is terribly wrong with this newer, drug store incarnation of this fragrance. The vintage version was not as spicy, not as overt. The only thing that sang true about this fragrance are the topnotes, but quickly segued to awfully synthetic heart notes, brutish and lacking its clear sweet qualities.
It was my mother's favorite. This new version of Oscar smells like my memory of her has been crushed...really sad.
It was my mother's favorite. This new version of Oscar smells like my memory of her has been crushed...really sad.
05 December 2007
Vivara (new) by Emilio Pucci
Looking at the notes, I just couldn't understand why it didn't appeal to me smelling it. Granted, I smelled it only on a blotter and prior to that the tester's spray nozzle. The impression I got was a white floral bouquet, a fresh chypre with a slight powdery undertone from the iris. I enjoy scents with a sensuality, but Vivara seemed devoid of that. It marked a presence, but lacked a note that defined its personality--a cord that bound this bouquet together. I was expecting something more bold and unusual, much like the patterns offered in their clothing line. Then again, I haven't smelled the original to compare to its re-hash.
Interesting bottle...seemed to remind me of a jellyfish for some reason. I'm happy that this wasn't intended to become some young, hip fruity-floral fad. To some, this can be a cult classic that will withstand time.
Interesting bottle...seemed to remind me of a jellyfish for some reason. I'm happy that this wasn't intended to become some young, hip fruity-floral fad. To some, this can be a cult classic that will withstand time.
15 November 2007
Gucci by Gucci by Gucci
This is not the chypre in a classic sense, but nonetheless a beautiful way of interpreting chypre sans oakmoss which means you don't get any of that old lady skank in this scent. It starts off with bright tropical fruity notes and thank God not the candied variety, then a sensual accord of lily of the valley warmed by tiare. The patchouli weaves itself underneath it paired with what I think is cardamom or coriander which I think gives off its chypre accord. The ambery base is what I think gives it a sultriness and strength.
Its mostly understated notes, good balance, and versatility is what I think will make it a classic cornerstone scent, not to mention make it unisex enough for both genders to wear.
To compare this scent with another, I think SJP Lovely had a similar vibe with its floral-patchouli accord though Gucci is more sweeter, paired with Armani Attitude for its ambery notes.
Vinegar? Nothing sour or fermented about this one when I smell it. Hearty thumbs up for me.
Its mostly understated notes, good balance, and versatility is what I think will make it a classic cornerstone scent, not to mention make it unisex enough for both genders to wear.
To compare this scent with another, I think SJP Lovely had a similar vibe with its floral-patchouli accord though Gucci is more sweeter, paired with Armani Attitude for its ambery notes.
Vinegar? Nothing sour or fermented about this one when I smell it. Hearty thumbs up for me.
28 October 2007
Gucci Pour Homme II by Gucci
I thought I wanted this scent, but as I put in another wearing or two of the sample I got, I started changing my mind. It starts off well enough, I think it was the violet leaves that caught my attention, but as the scent developed on me, it became more of a bitter smelling wood, linear and a bit monotonous and lifeless. When you think it was heading somewhere, you're left off with a big question mark.
I won't give it a thumbs down because my initial reactions were quite pleasing, but I just feel that the base needed something more to keep me interested in the scent.
I won't give it a thumbs down because my initial reactions were quite pleasing, but I just feel that the base needed something more to keep me interested in the scent.
28 October 2007
parfums*PARFUMS Series 3 Incense: Kyoto by Comme des Garçons
Bright, woodsy, and natural smelling. It's like sitting at a temple in a forest on a crisp cold morning, with your nose being the catalyst to the rest of your senses. There's a prickly note of pine that gives way to Japanese incense with the slight hint of smoke to it. There is a dry coffee note in there to further strengthen its woody and green personality. I was somehow expecting more, but still it's not bad fragrance at all.
21 October 2007
parfums*PARFUMS Series 2 Red: Sequoia by Comme des Garçons
Similar in tone with Kyoto, fresh and woodsy, but a tad richer. There's a hay like note with what smells like a certain middle grade of oudh. Its Zen like simplicity is what gives this scent character. Average longevity on me which was a letdown considering what you pay for a CDG fragrance.
21 October 2007
Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentrée by Chanel
I used to get samples of these when I was a younger fragrance enthusiast, one of those which just smelled too sophisticated for a kid that wore polos and corduroys with flip-flops mostly all the time.
A few age brackets later, I retry the juice and marvel at its understated complexity. It starts off very tonic like, with a very strong note of lavender which eases into its heart notes of cardamom and nutmeg, slightly spicy, but not overly so to compromise its reserved understated elegance. Oakmoss comes through and you have arrived at its full beauty. You feel like a respectable gentleman who's more discerning all the while carrying a discreet sensuality about you.
A few age brackets later, I retry the juice and marvel at its understated complexity. It starts off very tonic like, with a very strong note of lavender which eases into its heart notes of cardamom and nutmeg, slightly spicy, but not overly so to compromise its reserved understated elegance. Oakmoss comes through and you have arrived at its full beauty. You feel like a respectable gentleman who's more discerning all the while carrying a discreet sensuality about you.
21 October 2007
Amarige by Givenchy
This is a strong and rich bouquet, heady with Plum, Peach, Orange Blossom, Violet, Ylang-Ylang, Jasmine, Tuberose and Black Currant and casts a thick cloud of is voluptuousness. Even as an EdT, it still casts a thick cloud of femininity and presence. Its woody and spicy elements emerge at the base, but for the most part it's all heady and headache inducing even on a single spray. This is one of the rare occasions where Givenchy can reconsider a formulation and save on cost by cutting concentration by at least half.
21 October 2007
V by Valentino
Warm, vanillic and slightly woody, with a rich note of fig and the sweet floralcy of freesia and orange blossom. Smells very much a gourmand type of scent. A linear scent, doesn't evolve much in the drydown process.
21 October 2007
Very Valentino pour Homme by Valentino
When I first tried this when it came out, I was taken aback from its ferocity--very warm and a thick and sweet fragrance. This wasn't what I was looking for back at that time when I was looking for woodsy and fresh types of scents.
Fast forward several years to receive it as part of a swap on Basenotes and I find that I'm totally ready for this type of scent. Doesn't smell so heady to me now. Coriander seems to be the note that gives the scent dimension and its smooth texture, sometimes I think all to much because I do love how tobacco gives off a sweet and smooth yet smoky and woody smell which you catch hints of now and then, but generally the coriander keeps it seamless.
Sadly the concentration seems to be a factor despite all the heavy and usually tenacious notes incorporated in this one. Basically a two hour scent on me with it barely there anymore after three.
Fast forward several years to receive it as part of a swap on Basenotes and I find that I'm totally ready for this type of scent. Doesn't smell so heady to me now. Coriander seems to be the note that gives the scent dimension and its smooth texture, sometimes I think all to much because I do love how tobacco gives off a sweet and smooth yet smoky and woody smell which you catch hints of now and then, but generally the coriander keeps it seamless.
Sadly the concentration seems to be a factor despite all the heavy and usually tenacious notes incorporated in this one. Basically a two hour scent on me with it barely there anymore after three.
21 October 2007
Touch for Men by Burberry
After reading the positive reviews and pretty much forgetting how this scent smelled, I bought this scent anyway as part of an exchange at the store. At first spray, I couldn't stop laughing, not because it was bad or gross, but because a whole bunch of ???'s popped up in my head. I got a rather distinct association of an old lady feel--well let's nix the old lady association and just say I tagged a feminine feel to the scent because of its obvious violet top note that stretches itself all the way through most of the scent. I started to relax as the warm woods and pepper emerge with the oakmoss to become a warm fougere type scent, like a cross between Chanel Pour Monsieur EdT Concentree and Grey flannel. All this time I catch whiffs of the violet shot high and floating over this undercurrent of woods that finally tone down to its base of vetiver and a clean musk.
I'm glad that I got to own this one, I appreciate more these types of scents that catch me off guard, as I thought I was expecting a very generic composition, mainstream and reserved. A scent can look very good on paper, but can smell totally unlike it how suggests. This is another scent that gives me total reverence to Burberry's approach to perfumes, just different and sophisticated and really I haven't ever thought of them being a copycat perfumer so common these days.
I'm glad that I got to own this one, I appreciate more these types of scents that catch me off guard, as I thought I was expecting a very generic composition, mainstream and reserved. A scent can look very good on paper, but can smell totally unlike it how suggests. This is another scent that gives me total reverence to Burberry's approach to perfumes, just different and sophisticated and really I haven't ever thought of them being a copycat perfumer so common these days.
21 October 2007
Midnight Poison by Christian Dior
Oh lordy! It's the strangest opening I've ever smelled. Leathery and rubbery, which then fully blossoms to a very sweet candyish rose with a patchouli undertone and oozing with amber. Finally when the rose relaxes, you catch a scent similar to Angel. Not overly complex, sultry yet girly, I suppose it's an alternative for someone looking for an Angel type fragrance.
21 October 2007
Kelly Calèche by Hermès
It's been a long while since I've smelled the original Caleche, so I won't add it as a reference to this review.
Kelly Caleche from the get-go gives off the impression of a young sophistication with a hit of that classic style of perfumery.
Perfumery notes:
Top note: Green Notes, Lily-of-the-valley, Rose, Narcissus
Middle note: Climbing Rose, Mimosa, Tuberose
Base note:Iris, Woodsy Notes, Leather Accord
You catch a lot of rosy notes in the beginning, with a bitter sweetness giving off the beginning impressions of leather, and thankfully the tuberose adds a fullness without being heady. As the scent progresses, I lose the leather sadly, but left with something ever so familiar, and then it dawns on me. The base smells so reminiscent of Jardin en Mediterranee. Not a bad thing, but I was more hoping for a more definite leather, something like Eau d'Hermes.
This scent is not a scent to excuse though--it's definitely remarkable.
Kelly Caleche from the get-go gives off the impression of a young sophistication with a hit of that classic style of perfumery.
Perfumery notes:
Top note: Green Notes, Lily-of-the-valley, Rose, Narcissus
Middle note: Climbing Rose, Mimosa, Tuberose
Base note:Iris, Woodsy Notes, Leather Accord
You catch a lot of rosy notes in the beginning, with a bitter sweetness giving off the beginning impressions of leather, and thankfully the tuberose adds a fullness without being heady. As the scent progresses, I lose the leather sadly, but left with something ever so familiar, and then it dawns on me. The base smells so reminiscent of Jardin en Mediterranee. Not a bad thing, but I was more hoping for a more definite leather, something like Eau d'Hermes.
This scent is not a scent to excuse though--it's definitely remarkable.
14 October 2007
Emporio Armani Diamonds by Giorgio Armani
I thought I was going to run away from this one with the mention of lychee and raspberry in this scent, but luckily it's not the sugar coated variety. There's a lot of freesia at the heart tainted with rose and muguet to give the freesia its dimension.
You definitely catch the vanilla at the base, and for the most part, this scent is linear and thankfully without inducing a sugar-coated floral headache.
You definitely catch the vanilla at the base, and for the most part, this scent is linear and thankfully without inducing a sugar-coated floral headache.
14 October 2007
Prada (new) by Prada
I'm with those who get the same impression of Prada akin to Coco Mademoiselle. Didn't think of it that way at first, Mademoiselle has more sparkle and vive, but Prada does have this beautiful seductive personality at the base, warm, smooth sweet and irresistible wooded and vanillic base which I wish was more pronounced...parfum please? I hear the Intense version further cancels out the base with an added helping of sugar, so I guess this is as good as it gets!
14 October 2007
Myrtle by L'Occitane
The L'Occitane pyramid lists these notes:
HEAD:
* Mandarin tree leaves
* Cranberries
HEART:
* MYRTLE
* Sea amber
BASE:
* Citrus labdanum
* Patchouli leaves
The scent begins like fresh squeezed juice, bright and effervescent,and then warms slightly to a clean floral scent of myrtle, smoothed out with a wash of what they call sea amber. The scent then finally mellows to a citrus labdanum, which smells like vetiver to me, along with a gentle patchouli, more green than woody.
Good longevity, and somehow it reminds me of an unspicy version of Burberry Summer. Marked as feminine, this scent could easily be unisex. The scent is done well, it wasn't created to spark a sensation, but not my style of scent as a purchase for me.
HEAD:
* Mandarin tree leaves
* Cranberries
HEART:
* MYRTLE
* Sea amber
BASE:
* Citrus labdanum
* Patchouli leaves
The scent begins like fresh squeezed juice, bright and effervescent,and then warms slightly to a clean floral scent of myrtle, smoothed out with a wash of what they call sea amber. The scent then finally mellows to a citrus labdanum, which smells like vetiver to me, along with a gentle patchouli, more green than woody.
Good longevity, and somehow it reminds me of an unspicy version of Burberry Summer. Marked as feminine, this scent could easily be unisex. The scent is done well, it wasn't created to spark a sensation, but not my style of scent as a purchase for me.
14 October 2007
Iris by L'Occitane
The perfume pyramid on the L'Occitane website lists these notes:
HEAD:
* Italian bergamot
* Pink pepper
HEART:
* IRIS
* Galbanum
* Violet
BASE:
* Papyrus
* Tonka Bean
The pyramid suggests a deeper scent, but it's hardly that at all. I couldn't make out the pink pepper in the beginning because you instantly take notice of the smell of violets. The iris is very powdery at the start, but the violet seems to take over for the rest of the scent. I have no idea what papyrus smells like, but the base seems to leave you with just violets and tonka. The overall feel of this scent reminds me of Guerlain's Insolence without its monstrous raspberry and pulp regurgitations, and thank goodness at that!
IMO, they should've named it Violet, but I guess it's Iris that's hot right now.
HEAD:
* Italian bergamot
* Pink pepper
HEART:
* IRIS
* Galbanum
* Violet
BASE:
* Papyrus
* Tonka Bean
The pyramid suggests a deeper scent, but it's hardly that at all. I couldn't make out the pink pepper in the beginning because you instantly take notice of the smell of violets. The iris is very powdery at the start, but the violet seems to take over for the rest of the scent. I have no idea what papyrus smells like, but the base seems to leave you with just violets and tonka. The overall feel of this scent reminds me of Guerlain's Insolence without its monstrous raspberry and pulp regurgitations, and thank goodness at that!
IMO, they should've named it Violet, but I guess it's Iris that's hot right now.
14 October 2007
Cedar by L'Occitane
Getting wind of L'Occitane putting out four new scents as a collection called 4 Vents (4 Winds), I didn't hesitate to plan a fragrance excursion the same week I found out. I was in desperate need for a scent that sparked enthusiasm like what Dior Homme did for me. Entering the L'Occitane store, did a quick radar sweep before finally resting my eyes on the gloriously tinted bottles. Reading the pyramid and description off the website was rather ho-hum, but spraying it on a test strip grabbed me from the get go and I sprayed some on my wrist along with their Iris and Myrtle scents. I left the store and went to sniff other unmentionables that day, and sadly went home empty handed.
All that time however, as I analyed Cedar, which is an EdP, I started catching its fascinating nuances. There's a beautiful opening of grapefruit and wood sap, so fine in itself, your senses instantly perk up and take notice, and then it unfolds to a heart of cumin and green tobacco leaves, without being dry at all with the help of a sheer veiling of tonka, just enough to smooth the edges and not enough at all to make it an oriental scent. As the cedar becomes apparent, you catch an almost slightly leathery quality from the scent, followed for a short while by the atlas cedar's camphorous, mentholated quality, reminiscent of YSL's Opium Pour Homme. The scent finally relaxes to a low hum of the cedar's wooded notes. For a moment I thought the cumin complicated the scent from its bitter aspect, but I came to the conclusion that it played off of the tobacco and cedar wonderfully giving it texture and multiple facets.
24 hours later I bought this scent with no regrets. The Myrtle scent seems to have the same kindred vibe, but I wasn't too enthused with the sea amber and citrus labdanum. The Cedar is definitely the best of the bunch, good longevity and IMO, I think Ellena should've considered this approach for Terre d'Hermes rather than its impression of orange peels on a big pile of cedar planks in the desert vibe.
Hearty Thumbs Up for Cedar!
All that time however, as I analyed Cedar, which is an EdP, I started catching its fascinating nuances. There's a beautiful opening of grapefruit and wood sap, so fine in itself, your senses instantly perk up and take notice, and then it unfolds to a heart of cumin and green tobacco leaves, without being dry at all with the help of a sheer veiling of tonka, just enough to smooth the edges and not enough at all to make it an oriental scent. As the cedar becomes apparent, you catch an almost slightly leathery quality from the scent, followed for a short while by the atlas cedar's camphorous, mentholated quality, reminiscent of YSL's Opium Pour Homme. The scent finally relaxes to a low hum of the cedar's wooded notes. For a moment I thought the cumin complicated the scent from its bitter aspect, but I came to the conclusion that it played off of the tobacco and cedar wonderfully giving it texture and multiple facets.
24 hours later I bought this scent with no regrets. The Myrtle scent seems to have the same kindred vibe, but I wasn't too enthused with the sea amber and citrus labdanum. The Cedar is definitely the best of the bunch, good longevity and IMO, I think Ellena should've considered this approach for Terre d'Hermes rather than its impression of orange peels on a big pile of cedar planks in the desert vibe.
Hearty Thumbs Up for Cedar!
14 October 2007
Fleur du Male by Jean Paul Gaultier
I bought this blind...the reviews and shock as a result of creating an obviously floral-based scent for men, not in the way the market would expect a floral for men to be done--subdued, hidden, transparent. Nope, not Fleur du Male thank goodness. The neroli in this scent is forceful, enveloping. It's all about neroli at first, it's spicy sweet, almost candied with the caramelized vanilla at the base already giving its support. As the Neroli eases up, the fern accord emerges, tempering the carnal qualities at the base. And finally, as the fern subsides, an addictive, sensual musk emerges. Not subtle, but like raw sexual energy--heat, sweat, adrenaline, heightened sensitivity. Longevity is excellent, it refuses to bog down.
Neroli has become one of my favorite notes. I love L'Occitane's Neroli EdP, with a woodsy quality with a vanilla drydown. There's definitely a kinship of FdM with Le Male and Gaultier2 with its warm, ambery and musky qualities.
I'm happy that florals for men are emerging into the market. It's ludicrous to think that florals are taboo for men. FdM is not for everyone, but definitely a choice for men who want scents with a floral nature.
Thumbs way up for this one!
Neroli has become one of my favorite notes. I love L'Occitane's Neroli EdP, with a woodsy quality with a vanilla drydown. There's definitely a kinship of FdM with Le Male and Gaultier2 with its warm, ambery and musky qualities.
I'm happy that florals for men are emerging into the market. It's ludicrous to think that florals are taboo for men. FdM is not for everyone, but definitely a choice for men who want scents with a floral nature.
Thumbs way up for this one!
06 August 2007
Guess Gold by Guess
Young, vibrant, seductive. The fruits are washed over middle notes of mostly jasmine and hyacinth. The bottom notes are not overly heavy, just enough to give rounded body to the fragrance. I didn't expect it to have a dark sultry quality about it. It's young, okay scent.
06 August 2007
Insolence by Guerlain
I don't mind violets...it's true that Guerlain intended not to create a shrinking one at that with Insolence. I'm no fan of its opening. It gave me the impression of something medicinal, then of berries and violets splashed with chlorine. As the opening mellows, you catch Guerlain's classic notes of iris, vanilla, rose and orange blossom, like that of L'Heure Bleue weaving in and out of a now candied violet, hard and sweet with wisps of those chlorinated berries now in the background. That spiral drydown does seem to make the scent unfold strangely, not exactly linear, but its facets blooming in and out at different points of the scent's development. If one can endure the chlorinated and hardcandied parts of the scent in the first hour, you can surely enjoy this sugared scent with a Guerlain lining. You definitely gotta love violets. If you don't love it that much, go lightly in the spraying or stick with the well-mannered Classic Guerlains that are sans the candy glaze. I give a neutral rating because of its artistry, but honestly I do not find it an alluring scent at all--just pure mass-market Insolence!
03 August 2007
Quorum Silver by Antonio Puig
Quorum Silver was an amazing blind buy for me. Having tried the other Quorums in the past--the herbaceous woodsy and leathery original, the vibrant Aqua and now Silver. The opening is so inviting, the woods begin transparent and fresh with a slight bitterness, almost resinous, which develops and unfolds to a leathery vetiver. The pine is not harsh like RL Polo Green, but smooth, almost luminous like a citrus peel. But then again it's probably because the pine is marrying with a grapefruit note. The scent deepens a tad more, becomes sophisticated yet restrained and not at all brash like the original. You catch the vetiver marrying with cedar and what smells like pepper.
It's absolutely beautiful, I tell 'ya! It's definitely liquid art! Amazing how each note plays off each other giving the silver its glint. I couldn't believe how cheap it was at the discount retailer. I think it's one of my best finds ever.
It's absolutely beautiful, I tell 'ya! It's definitely liquid art! Amazing how each note plays off each other giving the silver its glint. I couldn't believe how cheap it was at the discount retailer. I think it's one of my best finds ever.
03 August 2007
Allure Homme Sport Cologne by Chanel
I don't understand at all why they created this under the "Allure" name. No olfactory association at all to the original and I definitely do not smell the prestige behind the Chanel name. Guess their overall game score is still good with just one strike against them in my book, since I do like the rest of the mens Chanels.
30 July 2007
Antidote by Viktor & Rolf
This scent begins with a wooded impression, creamy, with a spicy undertone, full and almost incense like. Then is settles to more discreet floral notes, lavender and violet seems to dominate, and the geranium keeps it light and airy. As complex as the basenotes are listed here, you catch mostly the cedar, patchouli, and musk, airy and not heavy as you would expect an oriental. Classic notes, but modern composition and weight.
29 July 2007
L'Heure Bleue by Guerlain
They don't make 'em like this anymore! So beautiful, sublime, art indescribable!
I've tried the EdT and EdP...the lush floral notes are ever so momentary in the EdT and quickly develops to a warm woodsy iris, which seems to be the focus in the EdT with a definite presence of vanilla. That impression of melancholy is ever so present in the EdT. The EdP however is a bolder interpretation, the anise note is brief only to have the tuberose and rose peek through, and then is replaced with a more passionate impression with the spicy note of carnation orange blossom and heliotrope with hints of the iris at this point, becoming more and more powdery with masculine overtones. Through this whole evolution, the vanilla keeps the scent round, and as the iris finally fades at the base, you catch a wooded musk, which seems more like an amber to my nose. I keep wishing this note was a bit more pronounced, but it does make its presence known as your own body temperature rises in the day. For the most part, it stays close to the skin, making it a more intimate and very romantic scent.
It's addictive--makes one yearn to understand all its facets that it tries to express. It makes you suddenly feel all that tenderness boiling over from inside of you-- vulnerable, blinded, dazed, confused, the symptoms of being lovelorn...perhaps that is the melancholy people describe? This is one of the most beautiful creations I've ever smelled.
I've tried the EdT and EdP...the lush floral notes are ever so momentary in the EdT and quickly develops to a warm woodsy iris, which seems to be the focus in the EdT with a definite presence of vanilla. That impression of melancholy is ever so present in the EdT. The EdP however is a bolder interpretation, the anise note is brief only to have the tuberose and rose peek through, and then is replaced with a more passionate impression with the spicy note of carnation orange blossom and heliotrope with hints of the iris at this point, becoming more and more powdery with masculine overtones. Through this whole evolution, the vanilla keeps the scent round, and as the iris finally fades at the base, you catch a wooded musk, which seems more like an amber to my nose. I keep wishing this note was a bit more pronounced, but it does make its presence known as your own body temperature rises in the day. For the most part, it stays close to the skin, making it a more intimate and very romantic scent.
It's addictive--makes one yearn to understand all its facets that it tries to express. It makes you suddenly feel all that tenderness boiling over from inside of you-- vulnerable, blinded, dazed, confused, the symptoms of being lovelorn...perhaps that is the melancholy people describe? This is one of the most beautiful creations I've ever smelled.
29 July 2007
A*Men Summer Flash by Thierry Mugler
Wow, interesting...a hesperidic patchouli scent with good longevity and sillage. Still dry like the original A*Men, but definitely without warmth, just fresh and a slight sweetness. I kept getting surprised by its distinctive scent in the air, and it definitely didn't bug out in the heat and humidity. Still wondering if it's something to consider as part of my arsenal, maybe the moment of truth will come when I try out Ice*Men.
16 July 2007
Angel by Thierry Mugler
If it weren't so gosh darn popular, or at least wasn't worn by a woman at work, I myself would wear it more often, or at least I'd like to. Angel unfortunately still has this feminine je ne sais quois quality about it despite the generous punch of patchouli in the mix which hardly makes it any angel at all! Certainly not a cute perfume, and it's actually the patchouli that makes my nose swoon--the musty type, as compared to the sweaty green type worn by hippies of the 60s and 70s. Back to Angel...it's probably that berry note that makes it feminine to my nose. Despite all this, I love it, love smelling it, whoever wears it, including myself when I want to be reminded of it when I'm at home. I can understand why it's so popular. I love the mens version as well, but sadly you always have to get over that brash tar beginning, A*Men and B*Men alike. Beautiful-but-edgy is the mark of Thierry Mugler--yeehah!
02 July 2007
Tempore Uomo by Laura Biagiotti
If you don't pay attention, you definitely miss all the notes described...naw, actually it is so complex that you can't tell top nor bottom from this scent. It's warm and spicy like her earlier creation, Venezia, though it has very powdery notes and less sharp on the spice. The scent seems to weave itself in slow pulses of powdered warmth and sweetness. It doesn't project much, although I may also suspect that the notes are so densely packed that one might easily be suffering from olfactory fatigue from this one, hence one might be tricked from its true longevity. The scent artistry could be markedly better if contrasting notes were added to give it better texture. Overall, it's still a pleasing scent.
29 June 2007
Royal Delight by Creed
On the get go, Royal Delight speaks sophistication and class. It has a leather-chypre feel with an oriental drydown. As with many leather-chypres, it has a dirty animalic impression, but this composition keeps it noticeable but reserved. The dirtiness soon segues into the oriental base quite similar to Himalaya, but Himalaya is more a modern, meditative, altitudinous scent, while Royal Delight is sophisticated and more dark and sensual. If Royal Delight didn't have that woody vanillic drydown, I would've passed on this, it would've made it hard to wear, beautiful, but hard, like Chanel's Cuir de Russie.
I agree that this is one of the longer lasting of the Creeds. One can't help but marvel at such beautiful compositions such as this!
I agree that this is one of the longer lasting of the Creeds. One can't help but marvel at such beautiful compositions such as this!
29 May 2007
Essential by Lacoste
Mmm, err, uhm, the notes seem nice enough, smell pleasant, but that's pretty much where it stops. Give it to your brother, he'll love it!
06 May 2007
With Love... Hilary Duff by Hilary Duff
Celebriscents either smell clueless or cheap...With Love is amazing, probably because it's done with careful restraint and balance. Nothing like a composition ruined by spiking it with fruit and/or florals that are overly voluptuous and headache inducing. Funny how I like WL...HD a lot more than the overly done Black Orchid by Tom Ford, which costs twice as much and not at all impressive to me. Because With Love has a woody amber tone at the base, there's also a familiarity to L'Occitane's Ambre and Armani Attitude for Men. With Love is well done, sophisticated and not at all girly-girly smelling of fruity gum drops and botanical hair conditioners.
05 May 2007
Dunhill by Alfred Dunhill
Great fougere notes start off in this scent, then surprisingly warms up with an amber like quality. Very good I tell ya'! I wonder why I didn't pay attention to this one, it's most likely because of the great disappointment I got from Dunhill Desire. Dunhill is classy, elegant, sensual and warm. The smoky beige color of the juice makes it so inviting.
29 April 2007
Burberry Summer for Men by Burberry
Surprising offering from Burberry...reminds me of Weekend, but much more citrus, the grapefruit note is supported miraculously by spice and cedar notes to carry its freshness for hours and hours. Have they cracked the code in tricking the nose of smelling citrus all the way in a scent? Great job I must say!
29 April 2007
Black Orchid by Tom Ford
Hell of an expensive scent that smells rather synthetic and mainstream. Bold, with berry and creamy notes, the wood and incense is choked off of its beautiful qualities due to this berry-floral, Aunt Betty has just entered the room smell. You'll be better off reading about a black orchid in a mystery novel rather than trying to read the black orchid in this composition. Did Tom Ford really have a hand at creating this? Doesn't smell like it at all!
29 April 2007
Eau de Cologne by Chanel
WOW! $175 Cologne! Simple, natural smelling, but not worth the price. The decant I purchased had its cap unscrewed slightly so it evaporated all to but a film of citrus, patchouli, and that urine like smell that comes associated with concentrated Neroli. Not really a great loss, longevity was rather pathetic with this one, people might be happier picking up Mugler Cologne or Paul Smith Story.
29 April 2007
No. 18 by Chanel
I've read on a blogsite that the opening accord of this scent resembles the smell of a dill pickle...I COULDN'T AGREE MORE! Perhaps the most feminine of Les Excusifs, decidedly floral, though not overly done. The ambrette note is so muted I just wonder if the ambrette notes I've encountered in the past were synthetic because they were so pronounced. All I could think of when smelling this was "hmmm, yeah, ok, whatever."
29 April 2007
Bois d'Ombrie by Eau d'Italie
Haha! Whiskey and woods! Besides its cedary booze smell, there's also a hint of green notes like that of vetiver, and also resinous notes like that of frankincense and myrrh. Definitely creates the impression of calm, relaxed and indolent bliss! I couldn't concentrate on my work because this scent was taking me so far away!
29 April 2007
Armani Attitude by Giorgio Armani
Very good composition, I do agree there is a B*Men correlation as far as its woody and patchouli aspects are concerned, but definitely no fruitiness. Peppery, woodsy, a hint of coffee, and perhaps some coriander and cardamom and of course amber. A full and seductive opening on the get go, but awfully subtle after 2 hours and finally completely gone. Wish I was one of the lucky dogs that have this last their skin. A welcome addition to the Armani line, especially when I wasn't so impressed with Black Code.
29 April 2007
Eau de Cédre by Heeley
Transparent, woody and fresh. I love it, but you really need to bathe in this to get some decent body and sillage. Not worth the price for a bottle, sadly.
29 April 2007
Eva by Santa Maria Novella
Excellent scent with a tart citrus opening, then a momentary herbal mint note which mellows into notes of a floral/jasmine note and the woodsy grassy base of vetiver. The first SMN I've ever sniffed, and I like it a lot!
29 April 2007
Patchouly by Profumum
Mmmmm...warm powdery patchouli with an interesting beginning, animalic and bitter, much like that of a high quality oud note, or that animalic/hay undercurrent found in Dzing! Not a sweaty patchouli you smell in this one but more of the musty type that I revere so much.
29 April 2007
Voyage by Nautica
LOL! You gotta be kidding me...a modern fougere staring you at the face, and people assume it's a fresh aquatic because of the Nautica association. I guess people will make that mistake since aquatics were based on fougere accords. Nothing blah about this one, well done with character and sophistication. If you're impressed with classics along the lines of Grey Flannel and Bowling Green, pick this gem up! Don't bother with the Island Voyage version, not worth it.
29 April 2007
Baldessarini Ambré by Baldessarini
Packs a lot of sillage from the get go. Surprising that Violets could really lend a sweet ambery quality not so powdery as wwhat I was expecting, but really I think this more of a linear scent than anything, and you definitely can smell the whiskey note in this one. Wish that there was a more spicier aspect to this to even out its boozy sweetness. Longevity is better than average.
07 April 2007
Island Voyage by Nautica
Hmmm...Nautica Voyage with more citrus...didn't smell like margarita notes to me...stick with Voyage, folks.
07 April 2007
CK In 2U Him by Calvin Klein
So they wanted to make this the next cK one sensation. Ummm....other than a nice citrus opening, everything's downhill from there. The middle notes smelled of a white floral, woody, and an undertone of musk, which smelled more like a cross between walnuts and rubber, not strong, but it was there. After that, it just broke apart, the interest was lost and left me thinking the fragrance developer over at Calvin Klein should be replaced...sad, but true.
07 April 2007
Lucky Number 6 for Men by Lucky Brand
First off, I love the bottle...a Chinese apothecary type bottle which adds mystery and a great looking addition to your dresser.
Secondly...ah fougere! It's been a long time that this type of scent has been left in the sleeper. We're not talking aquatic fougeres that seem to refuse to take a step back. We're talking more classic here, stuff that smells like Grey Flannel and Bowling Green, the stuff that smells right when you wear your heathered charcoal suit over your small patterned tie and oxford shirt. Funny that Lucky created this scent, because one generally associates the brand with a casual mentality to it.
NOTES: Bergamot, Neroli, Pineapple, Watery Notes, Suede Accord, Plum, Geranium, Gingerlily, Nutmeg, Cashmeran, Tonka Bean, Amber, Sandalwood, Cedarwood, and Musk.
After a fresh and bright citrus opening, it segues into a sweet, almost oriental quality, the plum is sweet and ripe but not heavy, seems the suede and the geranium are most dominant with an undertone of nutmeg to give it that fougere feel. The basenotes are smooth and supportive, but definitely not intended to be the focus only lending familiar resinous notes for body and not to otherwise complicate or compromise its overall fresh and sophisticated feel.
This scent will probably not go into the history books, but I can appreciate that this style of scent hasn't been altogether forgotten!
Secondly...ah fougere! It's been a long time that this type of scent has been left in the sleeper. We're not talking aquatic fougeres that seem to refuse to take a step back. We're talking more classic here, stuff that smells like Grey Flannel and Bowling Green, the stuff that smells right when you wear your heathered charcoal suit over your small patterned tie and oxford shirt. Funny that Lucky created this scent, because one generally associates the brand with a casual mentality to it.
NOTES: Bergamot, Neroli, Pineapple, Watery Notes, Suede Accord, Plum, Geranium, Gingerlily, Nutmeg, Cashmeran, Tonka Bean, Amber, Sandalwood, Cedarwood, and Musk.
After a fresh and bright citrus opening, it segues into a sweet, almost oriental quality, the plum is sweet and ripe but not heavy, seems the suede and the geranium are most dominant with an undertone of nutmeg to give it that fougere feel. The basenotes are smooth and supportive, but definitely not intended to be the focus only lending familiar resinous notes for body and not to otherwise complicate or compromise its overall fresh and sophisticated feel.
This scent will probably not go into the history books, but I can appreciate that this style of scent hasn't been altogether forgotten!
05 April 2007
H2 by Hummer
Sure, I don't blame anyone passing a scent like this by, with the name Hummer attached to it. Same goes with Lamborghini and Ferrari...what do they know about scents, right?
But here is Hummer 2...a fresh spicy oriental with notes of Mandarin Peel, Cinnamon Leaves, Bergamot, Cardamom, Bourbon, Pepper, Elemi, Incense, and Red Myrrh. Doesn't smell deep as it sounds, but it does start out spicy, then develops to a fresh and aromatic aquatic, reminiscent, at least to me, of Azzaro Chrome. It does quiet itself rather quickly, and the base of elemi incense and red myrrh make it very sensual in the end, though I was wishing it more pronounced to make the bourbon note smoother and more appealing.
Sure, many companies will create a scent that smells like someone was playing with their chemical science project kit, and names and reputations will generally set a negative impression off the bat before laying your first sniff. That's why H2 will generally be a sleeper.
This is not an over the top, everyone take note, kind of scent. It has its own merits, and done well. I'm glad I kept an open mind sniffing this.
But here is Hummer 2...a fresh spicy oriental with notes of Mandarin Peel, Cinnamon Leaves, Bergamot, Cardamom, Bourbon, Pepper, Elemi, Incense, and Red Myrrh. Doesn't smell deep as it sounds, but it does start out spicy, then develops to a fresh and aromatic aquatic, reminiscent, at least to me, of Azzaro Chrome. It does quiet itself rather quickly, and the base of elemi incense and red myrrh make it very sensual in the end, though I was wishing it more pronounced to make the bourbon note smoother and more appealing.
Sure, many companies will create a scent that smells like someone was playing with their chemical science project kit, and names and reputations will generally set a negative impression off the bat before laying your first sniff. That's why H2 will generally be a sleeper.
This is not an over the top, everyone take note, kind of scent. It has its own merits, and done well. I'm glad I kept an open mind sniffing this.
05 April 2007
Virgin Island Water by Creed
It wasn't what I was hoping for. Transparent scent of suntan oil that didn't last the hour. Somehow I was hoping for something more blended (the coconut was just too prominent on my skin), more captivating, more of everything! Hoping the new Tommy Bahama St. Barth has a lot more merit.
03 April 2007
Number 3 / Le 3me Homme / The Third Man by Caron
Bought this blind. It started off with a surprising sharp and soapy opening, a little brash, quite like that of Lalique Homme, which quickly segued into...oh geez,
SO...MUCH...POWDER!!!!...MUST...BE....STRONG!!!...can't imagine this could be the rose talking--never smelled a rose this powdery!
And then you meet a smooth, spicy aromatic oriental, the gentleman's cologne. The rose fern and carnation create a green and sharp spiciness, and it's sweet, but not syrupy...a more wooded sweetness. As it mellows further into the drydown, it becomes mossy, with an undertone of musk.
Try this on for a formal event or want to be taken seriously in a business meeting! There's a quiet power and presence about it.
SO...MUCH...POWDER!!!!...MUST...BE....STRONG!!!...can't imagine this could be the rose talking--never smelled a rose this powdery!
And then you meet a smooth, spicy aromatic oriental, the gentleman's cologne. The rose fern and carnation create a green and sharp spiciness, and it's sweet, but not syrupy...a more wooded sweetness. As it mellows further into the drydown, it becomes mossy, with an undertone of musk.
Try this on for a formal event or want to be taken seriously in a business meeting! There's a quiet power and presence about it.
21 March 2007
Bel Respiro by Chanel
Notes are rumored to include crushed leaves, rosemary, thyme, rose, lilac, hyacinth, green tea, aromatic grasses, myrrh and leather. Hmmmm...smelling this reminds me of the brilliantine pomade that my uncles used to wear called Three Flowers, hence making me think of how masculine this scent is with a little of the 50s and 60s bad boy thrown in like Fellini's La Dolce Vita. Not the best of the 6, unfortunately.
19 March 2007
28 La Pausa by Chanel
Simple, transparent iris plays a key role throughout this scent. Not overly complicated, though they could really work on the longevity. There's also a clean, innocent-like rose in it, I'll color it pink for this composition, all with an undercurrent of tender green notes. Skirts more on the feminine at first but becomes more masculine later on. It could easily be more mistaken for a sweeter version of Divine's L'Homme de Coeur with it's more markedly citrus cologne like notes. La Pausa is still a remarkable clean scent nonetheless.
19 March 2007
31 rue Cambon by Chanel
The other favorite of the Exclusifs I worship! Pepper and Iris creates the Chypre accord for this one, and well done at that! Powdery, sweet and leathery effect, I think this is the least transparent and the most complex of the six. Understated elegance with a definite identity. I think one can instantly recognize this scent like that of No. 5 and Coco, so you know this is one helluva unique scent, and smells definitely like a classic IMO. I'm surprised people were expecting more from the line, but I honestly think this is a definite winner. The floral aspects are definitely balanced with its semi-musty, sweet, and leathery aspects--a masterpiece! A classic definitely born!
19 March 2007
Coromandel by Chanel
A modern oriental at its best! Pepper, frankincense and patchouli with a vanillic undertone makes me swoon! I didn't expect all 6 scents to be earth shattering, but I was certainly hoping they were wearable for either gender. It's interesting that the House didn't mention aspects of what kind of person should wear it, but rather to make a connection with the memories of the different places Chanel occupied. The raw materials used are of great quality, you can really smell its opulence. I'm not sure this reminds me of silk screen paintings as the name suggests, but definitely suggests an air of the orient meeting French refinement, elegance, and modern practicality. Coromandel is in my top two of the Exclusifs. Hoping they will offer smaller bottles so that I can actually afford one!
19 March 2007
Mitsouko by Guerlain
Mitsouko for me today is a trip back into my past, when I marvelled at the look of the bottles in the department store and the bottle of extrait opened and held to my nose when I asked a kind and patient sales associate. All I remember was it smelling diffusive and thick, like velvet being wrapped around you over and over...not a bad thing, just too seductive for a kid who didn't even know what a paycheck was.
I managed to snag a small bottle of vintage extrait lately. JOY! The scent hadn't degraded, its beauty well preserved to present day. It definitely speaks of a romantic era and time, with an undercurrent of melancholy, a quiet despair. Its spiciness is what grabs me and seems prominent in this extrait. It's wonderful how the oakmoss isn't persistent, but creates a delicate base on which the floral and spice rest. It's the peach that creates that melancholy against what I consider to be a seductive and mysterious elixir. Indeed, it's wonderfully made, but all too nostalgic and profoundly expressive which I think makes many turn away from this scent.
Pretty? NO! Not for someone if you want to smell pretty. Powerful and expressive and rather dark/mysterious? A definite and resounding YES!! for me. This is Guerlain in its true form.
I managed to snag a small bottle of vintage extrait lately. JOY! The scent hadn't degraded, its beauty well preserved to present day. It definitely speaks of a romantic era and time, with an undercurrent of melancholy, a quiet despair. Its spiciness is what grabs me and seems prominent in this extrait. It's wonderful how the oakmoss isn't persistent, but creates a delicate base on which the floral and spice rest. It's the peach that creates that melancholy against what I consider to be a seductive and mysterious elixir. Indeed, it's wonderfully made, but all too nostalgic and profoundly expressive which I think makes many turn away from this scent.
Pretty? NO! Not for someone if you want to smell pretty. Powerful and expressive and rather dark/mysterious? A definite and resounding YES!! for me. This is Guerlain in its true form.
13 March 2007
Must de Cartier by Cartier
I picked up a small bottle of the vintage extrait...definitely better than the Men's version that came out a few years ago in terms of longevity, quality, and sillage. I'm not so much a fan of musk, and this is a floral musk, but done with such talent and skill that it smells like a high quality essential musk oil--I'll definitely allow this in my wardrobe! Sweet, smooth, sexy animalic! Do not hesitate! The extrait is so strong, I managed to detect the scent by only applying what liquid that adhered to the lip of the flacon on my skin. I haven't tested the reformulated version, so I don't know what ill has been done to it, but definitely see if you can get ahold of the vintage before thinking of getting the newer stuff.
12 March 2007
Eau du Sud by Annick Goutal
I don't know what's wrong with my skin, but all I got was the bitter smelling scent of Muguet on me...instant nasal death association to Crown Perfumery's Sandringham for me. You just can't put your nose to where you sprayed it. Smells gross that way...PERIOD! Funny how I caught a lot of spiciness smelling the spray nozzle on the bottle, but it turned a totally different thing on my skin.
12 March 2007
Grey Flannel by Geoffrey Beene
Hmmm...Grey Flannel has changed a bit slightly nowadays. It's lost its bright fizziness as well as that tight formulation of violet and oakmoss to perfection, which leads me to think that this is probably a synthetic oakmoss that smells flatter than the real thing. Still has good longevity which makes me happy, and you can't go wrong purchasing this classic at a steal everywhere. My most beloved fougere, still here, still around...that's all that matters!
10 March 2007
L'Oranger Neroli by L'Occitane
Ever struggled so hard with a fragrance liking and disliking a scent at the same time? L'Oranger Neroli has been my biggest struggle yet. I used to wear an essential oil similar in the past, in fact I dub this Neroli a kind of "hippie-oil" as far as personality is concerned. Every time I passed my local L'Occitane store, I made sure to test it, at least six times over several months. I loved it for the connection it made to my past, it's heady fruity, floral, woodsy and spicy nature, and hated it for the unsuspecting brash...well not brash, but full bore opening. I honestly didn't know what to expect everytime I tested it. The drydown on the otherhand was what hooked me obsessively. I couldn't stop thinking about its beautiful smooth, warm and vanillic base. I finally bought a bottle to end my misery, and I'm actually happy and most of all relieved! It takes a special woman to wear this...it takes a man that's specially aware of his own dark or ponderous nature.
Eau de Parfum? L'Occitane must be seriously mistaken! Longest lasting scent I've ever owned--you can go the whole day and night with this, and has the most sillage only comparable to a 70s/80s chypre scent. Try it, and be amazed!
Eau de Parfum? L'Occitane must be seriously mistaken! Longest lasting scent I've ever owned--you can go the whole day and night with this, and has the most sillage only comparable to a 70s/80s chypre scent. Try it, and be amazed!
06 March 2007
Fumerie Turque by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido
An angel of opulence to me. She's a vision, gilded head to toe, draped in diamonds, rubies and pearls, the image is backlit to emphasize her voluptuous silhouette. As the scent dances off my skin, her dance is smooth, slow...beguiling. The music is somewhat familiar, I shake my head in denial. I have definitely heard it before, but what is it? Catchy, but nowadays only recognizable to those who know classical composition. Suddenly, it's all clear. The composition is Chanel's No. 5 ... yes, No. 5! The familiar and voluptuous notes of rose and jasmine, more powdery, more aldehydic. The only reason I didn't catch it at first was because of a totally different beginning overture, currant, honey and tobacco created a different rhythm, deceptive as well is the vision of my angel, she wasn't a 20-something platinum blonde, the hair definitely darker, her presence more smouldering and surprised she was clearly and even more sophisticated, making a No. 5 woman look like an innocent girl playing with her mom's clothes. Fumerie Turque...she's absolutely amazing!
19 February 2007
Daim Blond by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido
An angel of opulence. She is a paradox, a fair, dark haired beauty with an inner light that shines so bright as she dances off my skin. An intensity bursts forth immediately, the minty-herbal fresh notes of Hawthorn and Cardamom tantalizes. I then notice the bouquet of iris she's holding effortlessly despite her leaps and spins, her dance calling forth a Spring day. A symbol of her earthbound element, the Apricot Stone--wooden, with an undercurrent of fruit she wears around her neck. Her dress is the ultimate paradox, the colors of blue and white of clear skies warmed by a shimmer of yellow, not of suede cloth, but something magical, impossible to make by any human means. It's the frozen chill of leather captured from Winter's last cool breath, somehow made miraculously bearing only the weight and gauge of a sheath of gossamer silk. Her dance is insistent, until her dance ends like the smell of a faint drizzle of Spring rain.
19 February 2007
Blue Sugar by Aquolina
Ah, yes!...amazing scent here, as if A*Men decided to be unabashedly gourmand, and without a tar note in sight! Starts off with a scorched sugar note emphasized by patchouli, then evolves to a white sugar and finally settling to a more caramelized desert. Zero Calories...No Dentist trips...All the goodness!
Longevity may not be that of A*Men, but I got a good 6 hours with it.
Longevity may not be that of A*Men, but I got a good 6 hours with it.
19 February 2007
Chergui by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido
Sweet and vanillic, a spicy and powdery version of Douce Amere, with a base of patchouli. Not an everyday scent, but sure to impress with its sensual opulence. I haven't sniffed many Lutens, but from what I've smelled, there was nothing I didn't like about it. High price tag, but to me it's worth every penny.
19 February 2007
Mandragore by Annick Goutal
Nice fresh woody scent on the skin with a hint of anise, but the EdT doesn't last at all. I know someone who wears Mandragore, however all I smell on him is nothing more than citrus. Sorry, but I won't spend $100 if it falls short of precious. I suppose it's a great everyday scent, however. There's no way this could offend anyone.
19 February 2007
Polo Double Black by Ralph Lauren
Nope, sorry, mango, coffee and nutmeg does not strike the right chord/accord with me to start off with, then it evolves to something with a strange 80's vibe. If you're going to do 80's, do it right, please.
19 February 2007
New York by Parfums de Nicolaï
Somehow I took on to New York much easier than Creed's Bois du Portugal, probably because I was eased into its green spiciness in the composition. Green meaning something something earthy-herbal like cilantro/coriander. The citrus notes in BdP links to that green note to make it stand out, which I really don't like all that much. PdN New York provides a smooth, yet excitingly sharp cloud of spice to keep that green at bay. Call it blasphemy to the Creed BdP fans, but I think Patricia did this composition much better.
19 February 2007
Vanille-Tonka by Parfums de Nicolaï
An amazing scent, simple, brings vanilla out of the kitchen by pairing it with frankincense, one of my most favorite notes aside of vanilla (and others). More weight taken off with topnotes of lime and tangerine. I would've been thrown into a fit of ecstasy if there was a subtle vein of jasmine or tuberose, but Vanille-Tonka still fits the bill for me. Sweet-Earthy-Sensual...PERFECT!
19 February 2007
Cannabis Santal by Fresh
I bought a decant after testing and liking this at my local Neiman Marcus. On close sniffspection, it opens sweet, the orange and plum instantly give off its gourmand impression, a dry note of chocolate and patchouli gives off, which instantly reminds me of the women's version of Angel, even more so when I get this hazelnutty smell, which is probably the beginnings of the Cannabis 'bud' accord, where it eases itself in line with the tender green sweetness of rose--a peppery-dry paper sort of impression as an undercurrent. A fresh vetiver note seems to be the prominent note at the base, the vanilla and musk only lending itself to give body to the scent and a gourmand beginning. I think a full bottle is in order! I think it's one of the best creations of 2006.
11 February 2007
Lalique pour Homme by Lalique
For years I longed for a bottle I finally received one as a swap. Remembering very faintly of how it smelled, on the first spray of the Eau de Parfum I was taken aback from the most sharpest topnotes I had ever smelled in my life! Rosemary and lavender exponentially burst into the air with the help of the mandarin and grapefruit. It could cut glass. After about 20 minutes emerges one of the most beautiful compositions my nose has ever experienced, I don't quite know how to describe it, but based on the notes offered in the pyramid, I suppose you can call it an oriental chypre-fougere. Powdery, sweet and woodsy, warm jasmine and iris play off of the outdoorsy coolness of red cedar, like on a misty cold morning, like the first glimpse of the sun through a forest. Literally hours and hours later, comes the most sensual basenotes, hushed and intimate after a parade of grand sillage beforehand, amber vanilla patchouli and sandalwood are combined with oakmoss with the greatest skill. On the whole, the notes do not fall over or smear into each other, they remain distinct in fact, I think it's what give it its textured quality, a beautifully calculated bouquet. It reminds me of the outdoorsy quality in Rocabar with the longevity and presence of Polo Crest and Giorgio for Men, and the refinement of Habit Rouge and Chanel's Egoiste. A true powerhouse! NO, you don't have to be 50 to wear this, but I think a natural sophistication about yourself will do. I think the most remarkable thing about this fragrance is its artistry in how warm, cool, and effervescent tones play off each other giving it such a rich texture. You cherish the moments when you find a fragrance like this that fits your own skin and personality. Thumbs held up way high over my head!
30 January 2007
Poivre Rose / Pink Pepper by Body Shop
Fragrance notes: pink pepper oil from Mexico, ginger, cardamom, amber, sandalwood and tonka bean. I purchased the perfume oil version--mildly spicy, I wish they actually pumped up the pink pepper in this one. It smells wonderful, but the oil is a very quiet scent. I consider it a summer oriental...needs some heat to activate the fire in the pepper. Thumbs up because I like how it smells.
09 January 2007
No. 22 by Chanel
You can basically spray No. 5 and No. 22 side by side and they will not clash at all. I'm convinced they both have the same notes, proportions are just different, creating a variation on the same theme. No. 5 has a headier opening of the two and dries down to a fleeting whisper of ambiguous floral, while No. 22 is the more passionate and tenacious, cleaner and not overly voluptuous, and remains that way down to its woodsy green drydown. Even No. 5's Eau de Parfum doesn't last as long as the Toilette strength of No. 22. I was able to find it at Neiman's and of course at the Chanel boutique. It's definitely worth a bottle.
04 November 2006
Silver Black / Onyx by Azzaro
Got a sample of this and I was surprised at how the scent opens. I almost thought I was smelling Azzaro pour Homme...a marriage of spice, wood and citrus with an unmistakable green edge. As the scent mellows, it becomes somewhat familiar again, a sharp woody tone, much like Visit. Definitely a modern formal scent, not too fussy or overly complex, meant to seduce quietly with refinement and calculated restraint, the definition of modern elegance.
28 October 2006
Marc Jacobs Autumn Splash Violet by Marc Jacobs
The most feminine of the three Jacobs "Autumn" scents. It didn't impress me too much. Powdery without something to support it's floral qualities better. I think simplicity was the aim of this scent, but there's no accord or note to make it alluring or sexy.
13 October 2006
Marc Jacobs Autumn Splash Ivy by Marc Jacobs
Very green scent, although IMO I would think that a Man would pull this off a lot better. The base is fully of an Ivy note, branches and all, wet and crisp after the morning rain. I also detect some spicy aspects to it to help round out the sharp green notes. Worth a try for those who appreciate something that smells more 'natural' rather than something overly contrived or formal.
13 October 2006
Marc Jacobs Autumn Splash Amber by Marc Jacobs
I was impressed with this one, complex with a unisex flair to it. It's not a deep scent, but definitely has a gentle undercurrent of amber througout the scent. This is worthy of a buy.
13 October 2006
Burberry London for Men by Burberry
Well, well, well, WE HAVE A WINNER! This is simply great!! Simply put, it's a spicy-green scent with a light base of vanilla (I suppose this might be the opoponax that's in it). Reminds me of Fendi for Women with it's floral aspects removed. Bought this one instantly at full price. I would've been crazy to leave the mall without it IMO. Bad longevity however. Detectable for 2 hours, but this is one of the moments I just excuse poor longevity for the sheer happiness of something good that came out of a 2006 creation.
13 October 2006
Euphoria Men by Calvin Klein
This is what happens when you are pressed to produce a scent just for the sake of producing a scent. It doesn't have a remarkable uniqueness to it, basically I smell a hybrid of Guess Man, Sean Jean, and their own Escape for Men. I expected a more deeper scent, but all I get is a citrus with a fizziness. Drumming my fingers on the table for a CK winner.
13 October 2006
Guess Man by Guess
Surprised with this one, I bought this blind, the reviews were convincing enough here on BNotes, and I wasn't disappointed at all! Best description would be a fruity green chypre, young, but with some refinement, fresh with a warmth. Not something I'm expecting to wear the rest of my life, but definitely notable. I keep wanting to sniff the scent. I kinda think that this should've been what Ck's Crave should've smelled like, although I've read many compare this to Curve. Thank goodness for the bitter notes of pine and balsam to give it that wonderful masculine edge to it without smelling like I spent time at a Christmas tree sale. Sometimes I think Parlux creates scents that may smell a bit too synthetic, in this case it still does, but ironically it works!
26 September 2006
Prada Amber pour Homme by Prada
I was expecting something more sensual with this one. It smells unique enough, distinguishable, but sadly not remarkable. All I got out of this scent was Lavender, Cardamom, and Vetiver, held together with Amber and Musk. Linear, but surprisingly long lasting. Strange too was the pricing. $49 for the regular bo
