Reviews by j_dubyah

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    j_dubyah
    United States United States

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    Original Santal by Creed

    At this point I feel that it may be very early in my the life of this new Creed to evaluate it properly. I say this because when Himalaya came out I quickly reviewed it with a thumbs down and have since changed my tune. After many wearings it seemed to evolve a bit differently and a bit more completely each time I wore it. I think I expected Creed to hit me with a blockbuster similar to how I felt about many of the others from out of their far and more recent past. What I did not stop to consider was the fact that when these blockbusters were released in their day perhaps they had the same overall reaction--a bit of "ho-hum", but in time they caught on and carved their niche in fragrance history. Others will undoubtedly disagree, but I feel that Original Santal may be one of those type of fragrances. Not an instant classic and not even a one for the ages, but a slow-burn wonder that will turn off those looking for a quick "wow" while increasingly intriguing those who stick with it. Some have likened this to Allure and there are certainly some very strong similarities, but, again, over time one sees some very serious divergences and even a even a bit of something that makes a Creed-lover quite certain that they are wearing a Creed. The verdict will be out for me for while on Original Santal, but I'm glad that I've had a chance to try this and am open enough to realize that it may indeed turn into something great...maybe.

    16 September, 2005

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    Hamptons by Bond No. 9

    Of course, those who have tried this will undoubtedly make a snap decision that this smell very much like Creed Silver Mountain Water...and they'd be very correct. However, just like a couple of the more recent Creed launches I can think of, this fragrances needs time to distill itself on the skin. While the fresh, clean, lightly aquatic qualities of this and SMW are very much cousins there are differences that take time and careful "study" to uncover. Still...for the price...I think I'll pass.

    16 September, 2005

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    Dark Rose by Czech & Speake

    Think funeral home. Yep, this is quite a dark, somewhat must rose scent. If you want a fragrance that does justice to the dark, but woodsy rose scent choose L'Artisan Voleur de Roses or if you want something that screams roses then Creed Fleurs de The Rose Bulgari, but this one you can safely pass over. I was disappointed about how it measured up to other more classic Czech & Speake items.

    16 September, 2005

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    Original Vetiver by Creed

    I'm not a fan of citrusy, green almost overly fresh fragrances and this one is that to a tee. Its similarites to Mugler's Cologne are certainly well documented and while that is certainly true for the first several wearing I still believe that this fragrance is a bit better in its composition and there are certain very subtle nuances that are pleasantly different, but those will exhibit themselves only over several wearings and most people just don't want to wait that long. One great thing is that the stuff lasts a very long time and that is one fault certain more recent Creeds get heavy criticism for. Development is rather narrow, but that in itself is not necessarily bad. If you are die-hard loyal to Creed I suppose you might have to have this, but as a long-time Creed fan, I'll pass.

    16 September, 2005

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    New Haarlem by Bond No. 9

    A fragrance that bears not a single reference to anything Creed, which will please those who often complain that Bond has shamelessly ripped off many of the Creed line in their efforts to pioneer a new American scent empire. This is most assuredly a gourmond where patchouli, one of THE most versatile of woods, is done in a mouth-watering way. While other rich gourmonds like Lutens Arabie reminds one of holidays, this fragrance is almost unashamedly sensual in its thick, but highly enjoyable syrup of pleasure. The coffee and vanilla in this work magic especially to a coffee or cappucino lover, but are not nearly as dominant as the notes of this in MPG's Eau des Iles. It is my favorite of the Bond line so far and, so far, I've tried them all.

    16 September, 2005

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    Bois d'Argent Cologne by Christian Dior

    Isn't it odd how we sometimes make a snap comparison between two fragrance only to be humbled by a side by side comparison of the two? In my assessment and conversation on fragrance I often compare the notes and accords to something else that I know. In fact, I think we all do that to a certain degree. I was able to try Bois d'Argent as a sample included in a recent exchange and, at first, was very tempted to say that it was very similar to my last impression of Tamdao by Diptyque. However, after comparing them, one on one wrist and one on the other, I found the comparison to be weak at best. Bois d'Argent is dominated by a smooth woods accord, similar to a sandalwood heavy fragrance, that permeates the entire fragrance from beginning to end, but OH the subtle differences in between. The honey, myrrh, patchouli and very light spice intermingle so beautifully that by sitting and deeply inhaling the fragrance one could almost hit a euphoric high. Not only do they intermingle well, but, like a masterfully engineered fragrance, the different notes float to the top at different times and not on a specific schedule, but, it would seem, as a result of the temperature of the body or even the mood of the wearer. The leather note in this is very light, but very persistant and can best be smelled in the melange toward the late heart to base notes, at least this was the case with me. The slight wafts of myrrh come up from time to time to render an ever-so-slight impression of L'Artisan's Passage d'Enfer. In the end, this fragrance is only vaguely similar to Tamdao, which is dominated by a more straight forward sandalwood note in comparison and certainly by more vanilla in the end. While both are good and both last a very long time, Bois d'Argent bridges the gap into a superbly done fragrance that is sure to please the most discriminating olfactory palette.

    15 September, 2005

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    Eau Noire Cologne by Christian Dior

    The comparison of this fragrance with Annick Goutal's Sables is well noted and quite right; however, it must also be noted that there is a distinct similarity to a less sweet version of Bond 9's New Haarlem as well. Also there is a definite harmony between the two (who would have thought) that produces an odd hybrid accord that is quite magical. While this fragrance seems to blend some of the most common of fragrance ingredients, the output is unique enough to merit a purchase if one is comforatable with the price tag. Although evening wear might be the primary use of this product as some have said, I felt it yielded a rather positive dreamy quality throughout the day as I wore it. Lasts very well too so don't let the term cologne fool you in the name.

    15 September, 2005

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    Cologne Blanche by Christian Dior

    I must begin this review by stating that, overall, I'm not that impressed by citrus scents. They all tend to revolve around the same grouping of ingredients with lemon or orange or something fruity usually dominating the parade. Now, of course this may be oversimplification as citrus scents are some of the most invigorating and refreshing as a category; however, as I've smelled quite a few, I have almost tended to grow a bit stale toward them as a group and certainly have shied away from their purchase. Then, along come this citrus scent Cologne Blanche by Dior. Now, I'm not saying I'd buy it, but it had a certain mellow, long-lasting charactor that most citrus scents lose quite rapidly given their ephemeral composition. The rosemary in this item disappears about midway in the process, but the neroli mixed ingeneously with the almond (a new one to me) works to elongate not only the luxury of the neroli or orange blossom, but lends a smooth and almost buttery nature to the whole base end of the product. It had only vague references to Acqua di Parma's Colonia Assolute, which had very mixed reviews, but I think that it because to be a genuine citrus scent fragrances have to definitely share certain key and easily identifiable notes. In the end, I would recommend this fragrance to those who are seeking to build a small collection who don't mind the price tag too much and are seeking excellent representation from all fragrance family groups.

    15 September, 2005

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    Royal by Geo F Trumper

    Royal is truly named accurately. This fragrance is touted as being simply a blend of spice and spice, but the way it develops is sheer bliss for the heavy fragrance lover. It bears some faint similarity with Eucris in complexity and formality as well as the warmth of Curzon and Astor, but even so, Royal has a clear distinction of its own. Although launched in recent times, it has the classic tradition of Trumper wrapped up in a royal package.

    05 November, 2003

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    Eau de Quinine by Geo F Trumper

    not to be confused the Crown Perfumery fragrance of the same name.
    This is wonderfully rendered from rosemary, lemon, bergamot and some powdery notes to give this a fantasticly more…dare I say…modern appeal than the Crown item. I disliked the Crown EdQ after a while finding it grating and harsh, but not Trumper’s version. Maybe a bit too powdery for some and maybe even a bit to floral-like at first, but I find it unusually pleasant.

    05 November, 2003

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    Portugal by Geo F Trumper

    not to be confused in the least with Creed Bois du Portugal. This is composed of sweet orange, bitter orange, neroli and musk. This is somewhere in between Trumper Eau de Cologne and GFT. Again, not unlike LV Acqua di Colonia, but pleasant in its on right.

    05 November, 2003

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    Ajaccio Violets by Geo F Trumper

    Corsican violets! Who would have thought a men’s floral could be done so outstandingly fresh and sweet. I love this. One of my favorite Trumper items so far. Just plain makes my head swim from fragrance giddiness. After smelling this I can now place where violets, or something like them, make their appearance in several other fragrances I own.

    05 November, 2003

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    Milk of Flowers by Geo F Trumper

    ZZZOOOWWWYYYY! The longer I sniff this the more clove fills my nose. That may not sound all that nice, but it is. It has the most distinct two-fold development I’ve smelled in a while even thought the top floral notes last only briefly in comparison to the cloves. On par with Bay Rum, Curzon and Astor for spicy warmth.

    05 November, 2003

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    Lavender Water by Geo F Trumper

    Although this fragrance claims to have lavender, patchouli, clary sage, sandalwood, oak moss and peppermint, I find that either I cannot detect it all or they are overborn by the lavender followed by the peppermint. I think it smells remarkably similar to LV Inglese, which, after all, is a return on Villoresi’s part, to the days of the classic English Cologne. I would imagine that Trumper’s Lavender would drydown beautifully, but right out of the bottle it can appear a bit stringent.

    05 November, 2003

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    Eau de Cologne by Geo F Trumper

    Composed of lemon, bergamot, neroli, rosemary and bitter orange. Extremely similar to Villoresi’s Acqua di Colonia though w/o the bottom flirtation with musk. Most probably this is like several others out there similarly composed. If you really want a Trumper that evokes citrus and does it very well try GFT. This one’s very good, but no reason to really have it over the other unless you are a die-hard Trumper fan.

    05 November, 2003

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    Skye by Geo F Trumper

    This stuff is liquid sky! Wow! So fresh and pure. Like being in a cloud of Spring rain somewhere between the cloud and the earth. Ylang ylang, geranium, bourbon, neroli, rosemary and musk are five of the eleven notes that give this jewel its glimmer. Beautifully orchestrated to pull quickly through the citrus into the floral bouquet and then slowly into the musk. Modern, but not synthetic in the least. Gotta have this one.

    05 November, 2003

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    Bay Rum by Geo F Trumper

    Heady crushed bay leaves and cloves. Superbly manly. Definitely reminds me of the holidays. I’d bathe in this. Reminds me faintly of Creed’s Bayrum Vetiver, but of course it would since bay leaves are something one cannot cover up well with any other notes.

    05 November, 2003

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    Sandalwood Cologne by Geo F Trumper

    I've tried MANY woody fragrances as the orientals, woody orientals, and mossy woods are my niche of choice; however, I haven't come across a Sandalwood that packs the punch this one does. It is undoubtedly the most smooth and sophisticated I've sampled. While Villoresi's Sandalo has that raw character and Caswell-Massey has the beginning of smoothness, Trumper's Sandalwood is outstanding for its creamy texture from start to finish, which, I might add is a LOOONNGGG time after initial application. A superb gathering of fine elements. TRY IT!!

    26 August, 2003

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    Wild Fern by Geo F Trumper

    Trumper strikes again! This too is very similar to a Crown Perfumery item, namely Fougere. Even so, this still has some quaint differences that keep it from being cookie-cutter same.

    26 August, 2003

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    Wellington Cologne by Geo F Trumper

    O.K. this smells JUST like Crown Perfumery Town & Country. Same from start to finish with a few better tiny bursts of added punch here and there, but pretty much the same mold I'd say. Don't get me wrong, still good stuff and still in production too.

    26 August, 2003

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    Silvester by Geo F Trumper

    Citrus/herbaceous to a tee! I should think that this would last pleasantly long for such a dominant "green" fragrance. I think this is as close to sporty as Trumper may get.

    26 August, 2003

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    Spanish Leather by Geo F Trumper

    The leather in this fragrance, to my nose, is buried deeply under quite a potent layer of musky sweetness. If this is your taste you'll love it, but I prefer my leather notes a bit more clear and poignant, sort of like Cuiron or Anvers. Even so, another smooth, sweet gem from Trumper. Should try before you buy this one though (as in all cases).

    26 August, 2003

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    Marlborough by Geo F Trumper

    Fresh, clean, somewhat heavy and a bit soapy. It faintly reminds me of Villoresi's Yerbamate with the green and sweet grassy notes. Perhaps a bit older and refined in taste for some, but I liked it quite a bit. Good for the office.

    26 August, 2003

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    Extract of West Indian Limes by Geo F Trumper

    I LOVE this scent. It has the utmost in freshness about it with layer after pugent layer of fresh lime-ness. Downside: a very good disappearing act after a few minutes as is the case with many such fragrances. I'm thinking the right kind of skin chemistry might make it linger longer, but that is trial and error that may not be worth the price.

    26 August, 2003

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    Curzon by Geo F Trumper

    HEADY stuff! Wow! Pleasantly uncorked the the top of my head and sent it into the clouds. I could see how one could over-apply this, but my experience was very warm and pleasant. This is loaded with spice and sweetness. VERY nice for evening and romantic wear, I should think, but bordering on noxious or deadly in the office environment.

    26 August, 2003

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    Astor by Geo F Trumper

    This is, in my opinion, a dual note quickly developing chypre scent. It starts off stingently floral and quickly turns into the chypre of a true gentleman. It reminds me of Roger & Gallet's Open or a far milder Trusari Uomo. That kind of potent chypre, but not so much so that it can overpower, at least not upon my applications. It's O.K., but one might want to shop around a bit for the perfect chypre if that's your thing.

    26 August, 2003

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    GFT by Geo F Trumper

    Before I delved into this scent very far I said to myself that this was yet another in the long line of classic citrus fragrances. Well...yes, it is one of those, but at the same time I would definitely state that it should you be searching for just the right classic citrus to add to your collection, Trumper's GFT to most certainly be in the running if not the top few. I like this better than Acqua di Parma because, though they certainly share that fresh burst of citrus at the top, they take wholly different turns from the latter heart notes to the base notes. Something pleasantly green/musky and somewhat floral floating around in there. I would still be concerned as to its longevity, as all citruses tend to fade quickly, but I should think that with those other nice base additions to this fragrance, it should last longer than would be expected. Definitely worth a try!!

    26 August, 2003

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    Hei by Alfred Sung

    A thouroughly unremarkable fragrance. Smells akin to Dunhill X-Centric. Neither of which is worth acquiring as there are far better light, quasi-florals for men.

    30th April, 2003

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    Acqua di Parma Lavanda Tonica by Acqua di Parma

    An extremely well-done lavender scent with the quality one would expect from the experts in citrus. My only complaint is its longevity, though that is not surprising given its quickly dispersing elements. I don't think the price is justified, though I'm sure it helps to keep it somewhat exclusive...for now.

    30th April, 2003

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    Dilmun by Lorenzo Villoresi

    Dilmun is a unique scent in that, at first, I thought it was only a feminie scent, yet it clearly bears some fantastic qualities that would best be brought out on the masculine skin. Whle the citrus notes permeate throughout the opening citrus fades in potency to introduce the floral side, which has a welcome place in men's fragrance. My next acquisition.

    06 February, 2003

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