Perfume Reviews

Reviews by angelica

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Total Reviews: 40
angelica Show all reviews
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Cuir Fétiche by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

I think this is a really beautiful floral take on leather, and it's character is light and diffusive, no heavy sticky resins lurking here. The ylang-ylang really stands out on my skin. For me it's a very comfortable, elegant leather for day wear and quite feminine. I chose it when hunting for a new leather and after sampling every leather I could get my hands on. It was a goldilocks moment in which this one seemed 'just right'. In the past I've worn Cuir de Russie and Daim Blond, so I guess that gives an indication of the type of leather I like... not very leathery-leather!
04th September, 2012
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Coco Noir by Chanel

I liked the bright citrussy opening but then it's really very similar to Coco. Not very noir as others have noted. Haven't we had enough flankers of classics now?
31st August, 2012
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Eau de Protection / Rossy de Palma by Etat Libre d'Orange

I find the experience of wearing this far better than testing/spritzing and sniffing. It changes a lot on skin and over time, so it doesn't just shout rose from beginning to end. I don't get any cold ashtrays thank goodness. It's bright, fruity and peppery to start, moves through a dark rose-patchouli heart and fades out on soft cocoa and amber. It evolves in about six hours on my skin at which point I can re-apply, which I like, because I love perfume(!) and I love spritzing and smelling it afresh, and I hate fragrances that over-stay their welcome with freaky musks that last for days. Overall RdP strikes me as an easier-wearing sister to FM's Une Rose and SL's Rose de Nuit (both of which I love), and I plan to wear it a lot this autumn.
29th August, 2012
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Shalimar Parfum Initial L'Eau by Guerlain

I did not like SPI in EDP. It was too much like Shalimar and yet not Shalimar, so it annoyed me. I would rather wear Shalimar. I prefer this one, perhaps because it is a further step removed from Shalimar, and so I can appreciate it as a different fragrance. The bright citrus and pale, powdery iris play nicely together over the very light vanilla base. It's very pretty and I intend to wear it on my summer holiday. Original Shalimar is very evening-dress-and-heels for me, whereas this I can imagine with a sarong and sandals. I wish they hadn't used Shalimar in the name!
02nd July, 2012
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La Petite Robe Noire Eau de Parfum by Guerlain

After the initial cherry blast, this is a dark, grown-up fragrance. Its tone reminds me of SL's Rose de Nuit although it smells nothing alike. I can also smell proper old Shalimar in here - the smoky, leathery, birch tar base, mmm... I guess this is the smoked tea. Also my beloved L'Heure Bleue... the almond, the aniseed. This is proper Guerlain stuff! I feel with this one they have finally successfully found the middle ground between the die-hard lovers of classics and potential new customers looking for something original with a contemporary feel. There's also a low electric hum which makes the scent feel alive... it must be some sort of aldehyde. I have smelled it somewhere before but cannot place it... (is it the so-called hairspray accord from Insolence which I actually loved and found so inventive? - the EDP being a more boring version of linear violet IMO)... but outside of perfumery it is the air before a thunderstorm, or a rock concert if you have been up close to all of the buzzing electrics on the stage. The rose heart is beautiful and luminous. When I first tested this I smelled it side by side with Rose Barbare to assess the rose, and I honestly preferred this. Overall it is not a loud fragrance (aside from the opening blast). It feels sultry and designed to draw people closer. Also, in my opinion a vast improvement on the original which I found to be too sweet and too dated (already, a la Angel). Slightly weird to launch in the spring/summer as it feels more of an autumn fragrance to me, but I'm wearing it anyway... it's impossible for me to resist!
28th June, 2012
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Eau de Fleurs de Cédrat by Guerlain

This is my favourite of the Guerlain colognes (Eau de Guerlain is not a cologne, it is an EDT and Guerlain's answer to Eau d'Hermes and Eau Sauvage - sniff and see) in part because it *is* so fleeting. I want to splash on my cologne early in the morning to help me wake up, or right out of a hot bath/shower to cool off, or at the end of the day to refresh, and I don't want it hanging around and interfering with my *perfume*! This is perfect! It's bright and uplifting, it smells of sunshine, and it goes wonderfully well splashed on with any of the classic Guerlains.
20th June, 2012
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Elie Saab Le Parfum by Elie Saab

This reminded me strongly of Poison, the original one, without the spice. Very pretty, a little bit loud.
20th June, 2012
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Kelly Calèche Eau de Toilette by Hermès

I have a memory of the original Caleche which neither current Caleche (too pale) nor vintage bottles (fusty and dated smelling) match. Right in the middle of Kelly Caleche EDP, just for a little while, whoosh... it's there. Magic!! Thank you Mr Ellena!
15th May, 2012
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In Peace by Space NK

It took me less than 10 seconds to decide to purchase this one, possibly less than 5. I was immediately hit with an amazing top-notch iris - that was it, sold! The iris truly is superb and now that I have worn it for a while I can report that it is also long-lasting. I would highly recommend to any iris lovers.
24th April, 2012
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Vetiver by Guerlain

I have just purchased the newest version, in the classic bottle not the 2000s frosted bottle. It is a revelation. I hope this is a sign of Guerlain taking feedback seriously and that others may follow suit. It smells like the money has gone into the juice and not a heavy glass, fancy (albeit beautiful) bottle. The last version was harsh and loud with super-sonic citrus and heavy tobacco. This is light and understated and elegant with good longevity and radiance. I for one am delighted with this reformulation and hope it is here to stay!
12th January, 2012
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Voyage d'Hermès by Hermès

In response to the myriad reviews I have read that pick this apart and compare it to other works by Jean-Claude Ellena, I say this:

I am sure c.1926 if such people were reviewing Shalimar, they would have said they could smell Jicky and New Mown Hay, and this and that and the other one from last year.

So what? And from the 1920s Guerlain catalogue of countless fragrances how many are still extant?

This is a transcendent fragrance. The whole is radiant yet comforting; the parts are kaleidoscopic, moving from one accord to the next, none ever smelling exactly identifiable... e.g. something sweet milky flowery (is that a reference to New Mown Hay perhaps?).

Just inhale and enjoy.
14th February, 2011
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Rose Poivrée by The Different Company

I love Hillaire's review.

This is the rose resurrected in Jal's video for their song 'Sajni.'
(Thanks to the wonders of youtube, you can see what I mean).
13th September, 2010
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Dans tes Bras by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

I think this is magical, and out of all my fragrances, and all classics considered, if I could keep only one, it would be this one. And I am thrilled if people think I smell like a horny sailor! I can't imagine anything more chic. Fantastic! Although personally I feel that it simply creates a sweet, warm and inviting aura. To me, it smells like hot skin after a sweetly-scented bubble-bath.

And I do not get mushrooms! What sort of mushrooms are you all, um, eating!?
29th August, 2010
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Alahine by Téo Cabanel

Love it! And I am very impressed with the quality of the Teo Cabanel line in general.

I don't really like ambers on me, they seem to disappear into my skin, and I don't like L'Heure Bleue, which I find far too sweet and reminiscent of pastilles. Alahine is quite ambery, and it reminds me of L'Heure Bleue, and yet it works for me. This is a really beautiful everyday, any occasion, fragrance - soft, rich, but not overpowering.
21st August, 2010
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Divine by Divine

Hmm. I wore Ysatis for many years and still have some of the original for old time's sake, but I would never wear it today. This, I'll happily wear. Saying they're similar is like saying Chanel No 5 and Madame Rochas are similar. I guess there just aren't enough animalic florals out there to make distinguishing between them easy, unless you've really lived in one of them enough to know it well. Divine has a spicy peachy opening, which Ysatis lacks, and a gentle powdery drydown (ditto), and in between there's a very animalic Mai Rose poking through the tuberose. I guess it's the tuberose/oakmoss accord that invokes the comparisons. Ysatis feels dated; this feels timeless. Miss Dior also originally was a gardenia-tuberose/oakmoss chypre, and I see this as a modern version of that.
09th July, 2010
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Fille en Aiguilles by Serge Lutens

In the same way that Tubereuse Criminelle creates an impression of the actual smell of tuberose absolute, weird camphor note and all, this creates an impression of the actual smell of frankincense tears when you burn them. This is what I've always wanted an incense fragrance to smell like - straight-up frankincense - rather than some nag champa incense stick. A dream come true for me!
04th June, 2010
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French Lover / Bois d'Orage by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

I wish I'd got the tourist's unwashed whore as that would have been a whole lot more interesting that what I did get: aftershave.
13th March, 2010
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Sira des Indes by Jean Patou

I love all of the Patou fragrances and only wish they'd come out with a few more. They use the finest quality Grasse jasmine which smells totally different from other jasmines and I can always pick it out. In Sira des Indes there is also natural red champaca, which smells similar to ylang-ylang, and orange blossom. This adds up to a sweet, nectar laden floral, with a divine natural sandalwood drydown. It rarely gets recommended to people looking for tropical florals, as tuberose is in fashion these days, but this is much more the ticket for me. Bliss. I hope they keep making it and you grumpy guys continue to stay away!
21st February, 2010
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Soie Rouge by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

An interesting mix of reviews. This is my favourite carnation and the only one I own and wear. To me it seems to be a headspace carnation, so the other elements popping in and out of focus are notes that amplify different aspects of the carnation - fruity, sweet, spicy. I agree that it smells red, and also spare and elegant, whereas Bellodgia to me smells too sweet and pink, and a big fussy pink meringue of a dress at that. This dress is not only silk, but fitted.
19th February, 2010
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Tiare by Ormonde Jayne

Totally classic citrus/floral chypre. What a delightful surprise! Thank you Linda! After a few years of this nonsense of calling syrupy fruity florals 'new chypres', Ormonde Jayne has shown us how to actually do a 'new chypre. Brava!

From the name, I was expecting a big, sweet, tropical white floral, and so didn't bother to try it for some months thinking 'ho hum, who needs this when there's Frangipani?' But instead it is an extremely elegant, sophisticated, feminine fragrance that sits alongside Cristalle, Diorella and Y. Less powdery than Y, less fruity than Diorella, and much more full bodied than Cristalle. The drydown has something of Bandit about it too. But these are just comparisons to give a sense of its character, it's very much it's own unique fragrance. The white floral heart seemingly pulses with touches of sweetness, but the overall effect is dry and reminds me of heavy silk. Love it!!!
22nd January, 2010
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Comme des Garçons 2 by Comme des Garçons

I was so surprised to see the notes for this one, and that it is meant to smell of ink... I guess I haven't sniffed enough ink, because my nose reads: fruity rose over woody frankincense, in the style of Rochas Femme. Love it!!!!!
17th December, 2009
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Narciso Rodriguez for Her by Narciso Rodriguez

The 21st century's No 5.

..................................
10th November, 2009
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French Cancan by Caron

Diptyque does a jasmine candle that smells like jasmine for a few minutes and then the magic falls apart and it smells of cloyingly sweet synthetic white floral + violet. This is exactly what French Cancan smells like. All of the highly evocative descriptions of beds of dark purple violets and va va voom vampy naughtiness that can be found on some other sites seem to be based on the listed notes + the name + highly active imaginations.
06th November, 2009
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Champaca by Ormonde Jayne

This is what a gourmand should be - an elegant floral with a hint of something edible, in this case Kheer.
06th September, 2009 (last edited: 26th September, 2012)
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Jarling by JAR

This is like En Passant moved to Soho in London. I worked there, in an office I hasten to add!, some years ago, and initially was shocked to find that on my short walk round the block to grab a coffee, I would pass, um what's the polite term for them? - ladies of the night? - except this was at noon on a Monday, and they would be hanging out of their doorways, with a lot hanging out, right across from a children's school! - and playground. If you know London well, you know where this juxtaposition occurs. I'm not making it up. Kids running around playing, with these women advertising their wares right next door in broad daylight. Wow. So, Jarling take the lilac caught on the run theme, and repositions it to this sort of environment. It's quite decadent, with the neon-flashing lights of some other big white florals - lily, jasmine, tuberose; quite sweet, with that heliotrope and vanilla; and there's something very naughty lurking in there - like PVC covered in talcum powder. I really like it.
06th September, 2009
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Jubilation 25 by Amouage

Smelling Jubilation 25 for the first time was like running into an old friend... or perhaps more like thinking you've spotted an old friend in a crowd, but then realising it's someone you've never met before. It's somehow recognisable and familiar, I think because it has a classical chypre structure - more Mitsouko than Diorella to me - but as one wears it, it definitely has a hint of the oriental about it - some spice and vanilla. In fact, I get a hint of Opium parfum, which I think is mainly from the carnation. I haven't seen this mentioned in lists of notes, but there's eugenol on the box, so there's definitely a clove/carnation accord. This fragrance communicates classic and impeccable taste, and then it flashes a bit of something sexy. It seems to work for all occasions, and it's one of the few fragrances I wear that always seems to draw compliments.
06th September, 2009
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Scent by Theo Fennell

Voluptuous is definitely the right word for this one. Smells the way a powdered bosom should!
06th September, 2009
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Belle en Rykiel by Sonia Rykiel

Hmm. Wavering there between a neutral and a thumbs up. I have wanted to try this one for a long time because of the Frankincense note (I love Frankincense; burn it a lot) and descriptions as an unusual oriental. I finally found a bottle cheap so picked it up. It's pleasant, pretty, and I like the lavender it in, quite a bit, but I'm not bowled over by it, and while I can pick out the frankincense mingled with the lavender if I try, it's not the star of the show. My first impression was that it smells Italian, and then specifically it reminded me of Laura Biagiotti's Roma, I think because it's sweet and slightly powdery, but it's a damp sweet powder not the dry sort, if that makes sense. It isn't Guerlain-aldehydic-1960s-powder, it's a recent shimmering liquid to powder body spray - not unlike what you get in L'Instant in the pure perfume. And speaking of Guerlain, if I want lavender I'll reach for this, not Jicky, which is just not so pretty, especially with that monster civet note, and this is much prettier than Vero's Kiki, which was very barber-shop and made me feel physically ill (nice job for a fragrance touting its aromatherapy credentials). So, I guess I'm agreeing with what I originally read about it - pretty oriental with frankincense and nice lavender note. Still meh, although I will wear it on occasion.
06th September, 2009
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Acqua di Parma Profumo by Acqua di Parma

This is a review for the reformulation which was done in 2008 by Nathalie Lorson. This new version is like Rochas Femme having undergone the same treatment as, say, Diorella did in Amouage's Jubi 25. It smells like a Roudnitska classic but reinterpreted for Cleopatra. It's got that whole ancient vibe about it that you still get in attars from the Mid-East (am thinking in particular of Amouage Ohood), but it's lightened up so that the fragrance breathes. Mature, feminine, classic.
06th September, 2009
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Allure Homme Sport by Chanel

Hmm. I am a woman and do not find it enticing. In fact, I have never before found a fragrance so repellent. My husband tried this a few times and it bunged up my nose every time, and I wound up with a sinus infection after its last outing. I literally have tried thousands of fragrances and have never had this reaction before.
06th September, 2009