Reviews by Sybarite

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    Sybarite
    United Kingdom United Kingdom

    Showing 1 to 30 of 38.
    rating

    Les Nombres d'Or - Cuir by Mona di Orio

    A most unusual and interesting scent. But I can totally see why there's so many negative reviews. Personally and strangely enough, I actually had no problem with the overt smokey notes of the Cade wood, which seems to be the main reason for scaring everyone else off. I actually love Cade and loved the smokey notes. I did not find them excessive at all really. Though it certainly is SMOKY ! (But then again, I was a smoker for over 20 years, and still miss the evil weed, so I suppose that's why I feel comfortable enveloped in smoke. (LOL) Though this scent does smell like you've been stood in the wake of a burning fire all night.
    Plus, to add even more interest, I also had no problem with all the castoreum. Loads of lovely castoreum which has a unique wonderfully comforting scent to me. However, there is still a caveat remaining that did scare me off after all. What I couldn't take, after all I had easily endured, was the massive dose of Cumin, which does just smell of "BO" to me. And even if the Cumin hadn't, the damned anise would have. I really do not like anise much. So finally something did scare me off Cuir after all. And what a real pity, as the rest that everybody else hated, was actually perfect for me !

    13rd December, 2011.

    rating

    Freak by Illamasqua

    Freak was the perfume release I most looked forward to this season. I waited with baited breath, almost salivating at the deliciously exotic list of perfectly appropriate notes it supposedly contained. However, and it pains me to say this, it's unfortunately turned out to be THE biggest disappointment instead. All my high hopes dashed in a single disillusioned sniff. :o( ~ How is this even possible, I ask myself on sniffing that first scented whiff ?? The notes were exciting, exotic, rich, dark and even intriguingly poisonous. Night-blooming flowers are usually intense and intoxicatingly heavy scented. So one would expect the perfume to reflect these qualities, and equally Illamasqua's own dark and individualistic aesthetic. However the result is anything but. How the perfumer managed to instead pull out a generic light clean floral from those wonderful notes is quite beyond me ?? In fact I'm sure it was probably quite a feat in itself. But not exactly one to be admired. Such wonderful promising notes, and the result is an evanescent, "wishy-washy" clean floral, more suited to bubble-bath than perfume. It's all brightness and light. More suited to "day-wear" in fact, which is rather the opposite to their "seductive night-time" intention. Where's "the dark", where's "the night" ?? Hell, where's the "mystery" & "poison" ? Freak, I'm afraid, is much more "Doris Day" than "Elvira", that's for sure !
    If you expecting to find Oud and Frankincense, or Opium or Belladonna, you will have to look for them elsewhere. If they were in here you would never know it ! Here they're so watered down as to be virtually undetectable. All you get is a slightly musty (from the Hemlock) "floral-light" at first, soon progressing to impossibly "clean" amalgamation of indistinct vague florals. In fact so much so, that it's hard to believe it came from the promised exotic flowers' "scent-print". ~ (So "wishy-washy" in fact, that it's like the perfume world's equivalent of a "diet-spritzer".) It lacks any distinction or depth. ...
    And on top of it all, for a company that prides itself on excellent quality pure-pigment make-up, Freak is disappointingly weak and fleeting, especially for an Eau de Parfum. Performing closer to an EDT strength. In fact, I have EDT's that still easily out-last it. ~ (I suggest if you want to improve it's longevity, spray it on cloth rather).
    Unfortunately, as it stands, the only thing remaining of Freak with an ounce of appeal or interest is it's cute well-designed bottle. (At least it's perfectly suited to the brief and intended image.). If only the juice inside lived up to the same originality. But no, the perfume itself is no more than mediocre and utterly forgettable. I'm surprised and disillusioned that Illamasqua has approved something that smells so opposite to it's intended vision. ~ An excellent concept, a brilliant set of notes, but the juice itself is nothing more than another unnecessary clean floral. It's inoffensive enough, but do we really need yet another one of those ?? (When there is already countless others done better.) ~ Such excellent promise. Instead, a waisted opportunity to be sorely lamented.

    8th December, 2011.

    rating

    Gaiac 10 by Le Labo

    Um, .... Meh ! (*shrugs shoulders*) ...
    Wishy-washy woods, over wishy-washy incense and detergent musks. Whilst certainly pleasant enough, especially for those who prefer fragrances that whisper rather than shout, it is absolutely nowhere near worth it's lofty, and quite frankly ridiculous, price tag. It's basically the ultimate fragrance for those with more money than sense. (Although paradoxically not for those who need to show off they can afford it, for no one else will be able to smell it on you.) Purely a private indulgence.
    Plus, guaranteed you will be able to find something that will smell very similar (even better !) for much, much, MUCH less !

    19th November, 2011.

    rating

    Blue Sugar by Aquolina

    I have absolutely nothing against sweet (even overtly sweet) fragrances. (I tend to have a bit of a "sweet-tooth", so perhaps a "sweet-nose" as well !?) And "Blue Sugar" is certainly a sweet frag. However I found it not nearly as "saccharine" & potent as I've been lead to believe by the various reviews here. And after all the positive comments, I was expecting a far better scent than what it actually is. Which is only average at very best. (Though, I'll add that it's quality & longevity is at least much better than most frags in this same "el cheapo" price bracket).
    Seeing as it's named "Blue Sugar", the overpowering "sugar & candy floss" notes don't exactly come as a surprise. These are certainly the forefront notes that immediately assault your nose, & mostly remain throughout the 'fume's progression. However I don't understand the "smokey" & "caramel" descriptions. I got none of that ! The sugar note is not a "brown sugar" or even burnt or caramelised one, (if only it were !) it's rather much more reminiscent of pure white crystalline "refined" plain sugar, to my nose.
    And I can even understand mention of the "Licorice" note, which is definitely present in the first half of the scent. Though I didn't detect any "Anise" at all. (There are in fact detectable differences between these two, albeit very similar, notes.) And whilst certainly apparent, the Licorice note doesn't really stick around for very long, thankfully (as not exactly a fave note of mine). It soon dissipates and gives way to ......
    And here, as the heart of the scent begins to bloom, is where I get a nasty surprise. One which unfortunately totally ruins this 'fume for me.
    In fact, I'm really surprised none of the reviewers here mentioned this note yet when referring to BS (???). As it's very central to the composition. And had I been aware/warned I'd certainly not have gone near a bottle of "Blue Sugar", let alone buy one "blind". (At least it only cost a pittance).

    The dreaded note I mean, is the herb Cilantro (i.e. Coriander Leaves). When I noticed "coriander" mentioned in the notes list for BS, I immediately presumed it'd be the seeds instead. A note well suited to gently spicing up a "vanilla". Never even contemplated it might be the leaves used instead, as I'd read no mention of Cilantro in BS. But mark my words, (or be warned, if you happen to feel the same as I do) it's all about the Cilantro once the Licorice departs, & for a good few hours.
    In short, this is pretty much how Blue Sugar smells to me. Imagine this :
    Take a cup of water, and add to it as much white sugar as the solution will take. To this thin sugar syrup add a couple of teaspoons of Lemon juice, (&/or a good squirt of Bergamot if you have it ;o). Then grate/chop a Licorice root and blend with a good handful of slightly bruised/crushed Cilantro leaves. Add to solution and shake vigorously ! As a finishing touch throw in a couple of Vanilla Pods and a Tonka Bean. Leave it all to macerate. ...
    And there you have it ! - If you can imagine how this blend would smell like then you'll pretty much have a good idea how Blue Sugar smells.

    NOT a scent for "Cilantro-phobes" that's for sure. ~ You've been warned !
    Pity though, as I was kinda enjoying the rest. ...
    Otherwise it's got good sillage and above average longevity. (Especially for such a ridiculously cheap price !)

    P.S. ... Whomever thinks "Blue Sugar" is a "dead-ringer" for Micaleff's "Note Vanillee" (as I've read somewhere) must have a very "unsophisticated" nose. I'm sorry but they DO NOT smell anything alike. Not even their shared vanilla & licorice notes smell the same, even though basically both vanilla. ~ "Note Vanillee" is IMO, one of the very best vanilla-centric renditions I've smelled to date. Rich boozy and utterly gorgeous. Blue Sugar in comparison is as "a spoon of sugar" is to a "creme brulee".
    One is certainly not a viable substitute for the other. To say they smell similar is just ridiculous ! ~ (Sorry !)

    29th October, 2011.

    rating

    L'Antimatière by LesNez

    An absolute GENIUS of a fragrance ! ~ Luv it , luv it , LUV IT !!!
    This has surely got to be THE master of "Skin-Scents" !? If I were able to chose how I'd want my own skin to smell naturally, this would be it !
    It's therefore my immediate go-to fragrance whenever I'm not particularly in the mood to be too overtly scented (or just can't make up my mind ;o) and just want to have "naturally" good smelling skin. As it's not exactly a very "perfume" perfume type scent. And more bound to elicit a compliment such as : "you smell good" as apposed to : "the fragrance you wearing smells good".

    I think it's one of the best "skin-musk" scent on the market ! And also one of the best pure plain unadorned representations of the scent of natural true authentic ambergris. (At least it certainly smells very closely redolent of my genuine whale "hair-ball" ambergris tincture.)
    Though barely perceptible at times, it's nevertheless still incredibly tenacious, lasting easily a good 12hrs or more on my skin. Though very light at first, it does unusually increase in potency as it progresses, becoming much stronger towards the heart and drydown of the scent. It never however becomes loud or heavy, preferring to stay close to the skin throughout.
    An accomplished minimalist fragrance, though certainly not for everyone.
    It's unusual character and definitive musky "animalic" nature bound to make it one of those dividing "luv-it" or "hate-it" type scents. You'll either "get-it" and enjoy it's innovative concept, or just won't nor even understand those who might. It's lack of immediate scent is due mostly to the missing usual top-notes. The scent only beginning to "bloom" on the skin about 30 to 45 min after first being spray. ~ It's a brave perfumer who composes & releases a fragrance lacking in all top-notes. (Seeing as these are usually what most base their immediate impressions of a scent upon). ...
    I especially suggest therefore that sampling first would be most wise. This is not a scent to risk a "blind buy" on, that's for sure ! ...

    In the light of all these reasons, I think the quirky naming of L'Antimatière's (i.e. Antimatter) is particularly witty and actually most fitting. And also especially as it will serve too as an interesting particularity. As L'antimatière is composed of mostly a cocktail of just various musks and little else. It therefore will work perfectly as a sort of musk anosmia detector. ~ So if you happen to be one of those who thinks L'antimatière smells like just a quick burst of alcohol followed by no scent at all. Unable to smell pretty much anything throughout the entire life of the scent. (Although do remember to wait that "30/45min buffer" I mentioned earlier, before coming to an erroneous conclusion). Then it's quite probable that you're one of the approx' ±3% unfortunate musk anosmics.
    ~ How cool is that !?

    26th September, 2011.

    rating

    Habanita by Molinard

    Wow, Habanita is certainly not a shy girl when it comes to silage. Somewhat brash, she's the type that will stick around right till the end of the party. And then still lingere well into the next morning too, though all soft and innocent-like by then. ~ So as far as "longevity" and "projection" goes, she definitely possesses both in spades.
    Straight out the bottle, though, and for the first fifteen minutes or so, Habanita is not a pretty scent. Rather an atrocious mess of unidentifiable notes that smell most unattractive. Thankfully a little patience is soon rewarded as it begins to display the notes and qualities it's so well known for. ~ Or does it ?? ~ Um, well, no ! ... (Or at least, not on me it doesn't !)
    On me, oddly enough, this lady is no smoker. In fact she's given up on the cigarettes altogether. Where is all that billowing tobacco I've heard so much about, I wonder ??? I surprisingly (& somewhat disappointedly) get no tobacco notes whatsoever. What I did get instead, and in spades, was lots and lots of gorgeous vetiver. Actually the only thing "smoking" was the vetiver. It's a rich and deeply smokey vetiver. (How come so few mention the vetiver ??)
    Again surprisingly, I also don't get much vanilla. (Or just a whisper at the very "tail end".) So I'm presuming that the supposed heavy tobacco & vanilla notes this frag is so notorious for must be more strongly featured in the parfum/extrait version of this scent ? And here in the EDT are just far more subdued and subtle ?? (Or that's all I can think of.)
    However what is not at all subtle nor subdued, and the one note that completely takes over then dominates the heart and drydown, is an enormous powder note. A typical "baby-talcum" powder note. (The most exact and truest I've encountered in a frag'). And it's a comforting and lovely enough scent if you like that kind of smell. For me however, it unfortunately completely ruins Habanita for me. As the last thing I want to smell like is a freshly powdered baby's bottom. ~ No thank you ! ~ (A real pity really, I was so expecting to luv it. I highly suggest you hunt down the parfum rather, if these too are the qualities you're after. I'd still like to try it, though I'm now scared of all the "powder" !)
    To recap : A vetiver and powder bomb !

    29th April, 2011.

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    Labdanum 18 / Ciste 18 by Le Labo

    Without a doubt, my absolute favourite Le Labo fragrance. Labdanum 18 is just utter perfection ! ~ It's downright intoxicating and ever soooo smolderingly sexy to me.
    I love it's mix of animalic and powder notes over the resinoid base. With the ethereal incense notes gently rising above. Like a shimmering opalescent silk edged with plaited purple & gold velvet. (And even Byzantine drop pearls off the corners). ~ Just a totally gorgeous scent !
    It does have a certain feminine quality. But that of a statuesque androgynous deity, more so ! (One who turns into a panther by night).
    It's the only powdery scent that I will gladly wear. And I'm a guy ! (Who usually hates powdery notes i frags). Here it just works. Beautifully balanced opulent scent !

    13rd April, 2011.

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    Montana Parfum d'Homme (original) by Montana

    I don't quite understand the comparisons here of the similarities between this scent and Aramis' Havana. (??) It would stand to reason that if they were indeed that similar, then I'd probably enjoy both scents, not so !? However that was not the case at all ! I didn't like Havana at all, whilst on the other hand, thoroughly enjoyied Montana. ~ Different enough to my nose at least.
    ~ Montana on me was all delicious spice at heart, subtle clove and tons of delicious cinnamon. In fact it was all about the cinnamon mostly. (My favourite cinnamon scent at the time). Then drying down to warm resiny amber and patchoulied mossy woods. Whereas Havana was all rather much more about a tobacco, but a smoky "stale cigarette" type tobacco. Not really that pleasant to my nose particularly. ~ (Or at least that is how they played out on my skin !). ... So if there were any similarities between them, maybe only in the very top opening notes perhaps ? Though, I don't even remember them being particularly that similar either quite honestly. ...

    But then scent really is a very personal and individual thing after all ! Which is why I'm always amazed why we even bother trying to review them. The very same scent is always different to each individual. For different notes of a scent are picked out and sensed by different people. While the clove might stand out to one, to another the cinnamon might be much more apparent. Or even go totally unnoticed by others yet ? ~ All dependant on many different reasons. From nose, smell, experience, preference, mood, time and countless other "permutations". Even the very exact same note will smell totally different to different noses/people. So how anyone ever even manages to agrees on a specific scent at all is really quite amazing. ...
    (Like, another example, many say Gaiac wood smells just like Cederwood. Whilst to my nose they are quite distinctly different. Yes both certainly woody, but still very distinct nevertheless. And on and on ... ).
    ... Oh, I don't know. Let me get off the soap box and back on point ........

    Montana was a rich and delicious scent to my nose (if a bit "80's" maybe. Though not as loud as most.) ...
    (AND, I should also stress, I'm talking here of the old one in the RED box. For the others were again "another kettle of notes" entirely ... ).

    13rd April, 2011.

    rating

    Vanille Intense by Parfums de Nicolaï

    I've not yet sampled every single scent from "Parfums de Nicolai". But I have tried about half of them or so. Unfortunately, (and at the risk of being called a philistine ;-) I'm afraid all I've ascertained so far, is it seems I must have a very different "scent aesthetic" to Mme. de Nicolai's. (I just don't think we quite agree on what we believe "smells good". - Not even her "much praised" 'New York' did that much for me ! - Though I do agree it's one of her better efforts)
    ~ But more importantly, it also seems we have a very different idea of what an "intense vanilla" is or should be. ... Personally, (& contrary to a previous reviewer's views) I do think the ever-present Immortelle note does far "out-bully" all the other notes. And particularly smothers the vanilla. ~ On my skin, it was all far more "Immortelle Intense" than anything else. ... It also has an odd jarring somewhat "pissy" under-note that runs throughout the scent, which I can't quite identify. But which unfortunately totally destroys any possibility of enjoyment for this fragrance.
    ~ Sorry not for me ! (And I wager, not for many looking for a vanilla-scentric scent, intense or otherwise. ~ If that's what you're after, I suggest looking elsewhere).

    Edit : Actually, P.S. ... I've just realised exactly where I had smelled that "odd jarring" note I mentioned before. And that was in another of Mme. Nicolai's scent : "Vanille Tonka". There is a definite similarity, or common thread, running thru these two scents. Which incidentally did not smell much like Vanilla to me either (nor that much Tonka, come to think of it). That scent totally bewildered me, being not at all what I was expecting. ~ SO maybe I just don't "get" or like her quality of vanilla much. (Or at all in fact !)
    ~ So I'm thinking, if you liked "Vanille Tonka" you might very well enjoy "Vanille Intense" as well ....

    5th April, 2011.

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    L'Eau Serge Lutens by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Premium priced fabric softener ! (Though smelling more like restaurant lemon towelettes). ~ Totally uninspired, or inspiring !
    ~ It's by no means terrible ... just ... so boring !

    4th March, 2011.

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    Ormonde Man by Ormonde Jayne

    I'm seriously confused by all the above reviews here for Ormonde Man !? And completely disagree with most, except a very few ! ... Far too many contradictions. I mean, half mention the scent being "light, with no longevity", whereas the other half profess "intense, with "excellent longevity" ??? ... This therefore leads me to believe that the fault lies not with the scent itself, but rather more so with some noses, I suspect !?
    Then a load of bizarre comparisons with a host of diverse scents, all of which smell nothing like it. (Tam Dao ??, CdG II Man ??, Nemo ?? etc. etc.? ~This really couldn't be further from the truth ! Sorry, no similarities whatsoever !)

    The scent "opens" with a blend of Juniper and spicy notes. Of which most apparent are Cardamom and Pink Pepper, and to a lessor degree Coriander. All enveloped in Bergamot, which very soon lifts. The spices soon after recede too, to give way to the most prolonged stage of the scent, it's heart accord of Black Hemlock and Oud. ...
    Now the Hemlock and Oud here are actually (supposed to be !) real/natural and not just some or other synthetic "note". ... (Ms. Pilkington (the perfumer) states that she uses up to between 2 to 3kg of "Hemlock compound" for every 150 bottles of scent). ... Which is actually pretty impressive, I thought !
    And the Hemlock I can certainly smell abundantly, sitting "centre stage", and it does smell natural to me. ... However, the Oud's presence completely escaped me unfortunately ! I'm afraid, I could not smell it at all ??? Or else, it's not an oud I could recognise (or am more used to). ... Unless, it's the Oud which is lending the scent it's woody aura perhaps ??? Which, of course, is quite possible. ... Though I suspected that was just the Cedar and Sandalwood shining thru from the base ???

    Now, on the Ormonde Jayne website, it mentions Hemlock being "Socrates chosen poison". However there is some "artistic license" going on here. For whilst this is correct, the hemlock that poisoned Socrates was actually entirely different to the Black Hemlock that's used here. "Poison Hemlock", the actual culprit, is actually a herb (with toxic root) belonging to the parsley family. Whereas the Black Hemlock used here is actually from an evergreen spruce tree from Canada ("Tsuga Canadensis"). And so therefore having a coniferous like odour. ...
    The essential oil derived from Black Hemlock is apparently very similar to "Black Spruce". (So much so, that apparently their oils are sometimes blended together). It smells sweeter and softer than most evergreen oils, with a balsamic resinous odour, with green woody notes. ... And that is pretty much what Ormonde Man smells like ! (with some added subtle spices).

    It's obviously a very well blended and accomplished fragrance. And even totally original, with it's unique first-time use of Black Hemlock in perfumery. However, I find I'm just not particularly attracted by it's scent, unfortunately. (Though I'm sure you "cone-head types" should really enjoy it ! Or, at very least, find it interesting).
    I'm afraid, it's just a little too "safe" for me personally. But I can also still see it's attraction, and think it would make a perfect "office type scent". Or perfect for you less adventurous types ! ... I'm sure many will luv it !

    1st December, 2009.

    rating

    Oyédo by Diptyque

    I really enjoy Diptyque for it's usually unpredictable and unique compositions. But there is one other main reason why I find myself particularly enchanted and impressed with Diptyque. I've found that they have a remarkable knack for taking notes I'm usually not that fond of and somehow manage to present them in such a way that I surprisingly find enjoyable. ... They've managed this now a number of times. At first, with cloves, with their "L'Eau Diptyque". And most recently, with hesperidic notes, right here with Oyédo.
    Actually, here, it's not that I particularly dislike citric notes. But more that I had become somewhat bored with the same old citric top notes, always seemingly presented in too similar a manner.
    Well, with Oyédo, they present the Lemon, Green Mandarin, and Orange with an unusually different feel and quality. Not the "light", "transparent" and "astringent", as one might expect from citric notes. But instead much sweeter and almost "chewy" or "creamy". (Kinda like ice cream flavours). Being rather much more substantial, and oddly more "opaque". Rendering them unusually smooth and velvety in quality. Rather than the usual "lighter", almost "gauzy", fresh and unsubstantial.

    At first the scent does start off quite effervescent with sparkling Lemon and Green Mandarin. It then soon becomes much richer with the introduction of a sugared, candied like Orange. With it's said "creaminess" so unusual for a citric centred scent. It also has a somewhat "Gummy Bears" artificial quality. Though oddly, and unusually, this distinct artifice actually works well in it's favour. Lending the scent much of it's charm and addictive quality. (Urging continuous sniffing !)
    Later, as the scent progresses it picks up a slightly more herbal facet (mostly from Thyme), with some sour/fruity notes (Tamarind). Which finally curbs the sweetness and citric notes. Some woodiness from the Cedar base also finally becomes a little more apparent. ...

    This has become one of my favourite hesperidic fragrances ! Due mostly to the uniqueness of the composition, and the unusualness of the mouthwatering candied citric notes. Which have surprisingly excellent longevity especially for a citric fragrance. Lasting well over six hours. (And that's just for the citric notes !). It still continues on to the drydown from there.




    11th November, 2009.

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    Beyond Paradise for Men by Estée Lauder

    The bottle, with it's "tropical sunset" graduated coloured glass, is really quite attractive. ~ But that's about it ! ... The fragrance itself leaves much to be desired, unfortunately.
    It's imperative that you enjoy Violet Leaf, for it's abundant here, and pretty much "sticks around" throughout the life of the fragrance.
    It starts off heavy with said pungent green of the Violet Leaf and being somewhat reminiscent of "Narciso Rodrigues For Him". But with an added marine/calone element (missing in the "Narciso") . It then deviates from this and becomes somewhat more floral towards the "heart".
    It then dries down to leave mostly the "marine/calone" accord over some very soft woods. Being quite reminiscent of "Cool Water" at this point.
    Boring, forgettable ... and OK if you want to walk around smelling like "marsh water" and "wind swept beach".

    10th November, 2009.

    rating

    L'Eau by Diptyque

    A "clove bomb", it certainly is ! ... And I'm really not one for heavy cloves. Or even just any cloves for that matter.
    But that being said, I was actually very pleasantly surprised, and somewhat confused to finding myself quite enjoying this scent anyway. There is something about the combination and blending of the rest of the notes, which somehow has allowed me to even enjoy something I would have normally recoiled from. (That alone, was quite enough to impress me). For it is the only clove prominent scent that I've actually been able to enjoy so far.
    It is though, quite a bold scent. And best suited for the coldest weather. The sort of scent that would be ideal to wear at Christmas time. Whilst sitting in front of a log fire, sipping warm eggnog.
    However, unfortunately, many hours later it does eventually dry down to nothing but clove. At which point, for me, it also then looses it's charm.

    10th November, 2009.

    rating

    Private Collection - Un Crime Exotique by Parfumerie Generale

    An Exotic Crime is yet another gorgeous PG Privé ! ... A rich buttery gingerbread cookie dipped in milky tea. ~ Just delicious !

    (FYI ... I hate cloves usually, and did not find it that clove heavy actually. It's much more about the cinnamon, ginger and tea). ...
    And I found it overall much richer than "5 o'Clock au Gingembre", which though exploring the same theme, is somewhat lighter and fresher.
    It "drys down" to be somewhat similar to L'Artisan's "Tea for Two".

    8th November, 2009.

    rating

    8 88 by Comme des Garçons

    Contrary to one of the above reviewers, I did not find a strong geranium note in this scent at all ! (??) ... Geranium is a note that's usually very easily discernible, for it does tend to easily overpower and overshadow other notes (even when in small amounts). It aint exactly a shy note, distinctive as it is !
    But here, I actually could not discern it much, it's used very judiciously, and is well integrated in the blend. (So I would not avoid this scent if you're weary of the geranium note alone). ...
    By far the most prominent notes are the saffron, pepper and curcuma spice. All blended with a lovely sweetness at first, which recedes as the scent progresses.
    I really liked "8 88", and it is quite "warm and bright" ... but, try as I might, I'm afraid I did not really find it reminiscent of the scent of gold particularly. Probably because, to me, gold would smell far louder, more brash and much gaudier overall ! :o) (But that's just me, and quite irrelevant to it's enjoyment, of course) Though it does at least pick up an appropriate somewhat metallic tone/note, as it develops, which helps the "gold" illusion.
    Of course it makes perfect sense that the "golden" saffron (well burnt orange more like!) was chosen as the note perfect to depict "gold". Seeing it's one of the most precious oils, being even more expensive than it's weight in gold . (Had they used the genuine deal, that is, and not just the much cheaper "brass" imitation "safraline"). So the "associations" are good, if somewhat predictable.
    Though I still find it a successful composition, and pretty sophisticated a scent !

    10th October, 2009.

    rating

    parfums*PARFUMS Series 4 Cologne: Vettiveru by Comme des Garçons

    I'm not much of a fan of colognes in general. They're ok really, but their usual longevity issues, amongst other traits, means I tend to ignore them mostly.
    However, I was very pleasantly surprised with Vettiveru, and found that it's longevity is actually pretty good for a cologne, lasting much longer than I expected.
    It opens with pretty much a typically "cologn-y" accord and "vibe", (which of course, is only to be expected !) But one that is, of course, laced with much vetiver. But it's a clean "light-weight" vetiver, that is devoid of any "earthiness" or "dirt", "rootiness" or anything "harsh" about it. Just a plain, soft and charming grassy vetiver. Which then intensifies somewhat, blended with some cedar and light florals, whilst that "cologn-y" vibe from the start unexpectedly recedes and fades away almost completely. As the scent progresses it unfortunately starts to loose most of the vetiver too, and starts to develop instead stronger neroli (orange-flower) and more clean "soapy" notes. (very reminiscent of Prada's type of "soapy notes").
    So, all in all, it's a very nice refreshing frag', that will have you smelling "just-stepped-out-of-the-shower" clean, hours after application.
    It's also, I would say, the perfect "entry-level" type of vetiver, or the vetiver for those of you not too fond of the "deeper", "richer" and "smokier" varieties. So, whilst far from being my ideal type of vetiver. It's still a very pleasant scent, and a nice vetiver for the summer months ! ... Though I do wish the vetiver was not quite so fleeting. (Still, the scent itself lasts pretty much most of the day, on me, so I have no longevity issues with it !)

    10th October, 2009.

    rating

    Muschio di Quercia / Oak Moss by AbdesSalaam Attar Profumo

    Muschio di Quercia is "Profumo's" ode to oakmoss. And oh how utterly marvelous to have a fragrance with an abundance of genuine natural Oakmoss and actual true Mysore Sandalwood !
    It's a perfect blend of these two notes, but with also a pretty large dose of vetiver. These three notes being the most apparent throughout. At first mostly the oakmoss and vetiver in almost equal measure. Followed by a "dry-down" of delicious, somewhat "nutty" sandalwood.
    The main reason why I enjoy "Profumo's" fragrances is because they are an excellent example of all-natural botanical perfumery. The excellence of his natural ingredients are immediately apparent. So I really relish the idea of fragrances made with no synthetic substitutes, for a change. And this one is without a doubt my favourite from this line (so far !).
    However, with this one being my favourite, I am just the tiniest bit disappointed to discover that it actually happens to be the only one of Abdes Salaam's fragrances to contain a non all-natural ingredient. (The only one !)
    For the vetiver note used here is actually a Vetiveryl Acetate. Vetyver acetate is obtained from the manipulation and chemical transformation of the natural vetiver. (So it's still derived from vetiver oil, and therefore not exactly completely synthetic as such. Though, of course, "man-made" in a lab !)
    But not that this actually makes any difference to the blend, for this fragrance still smells just as perfectly natural as all his others.
    It's quite a simple and "straightforward" scent, yet I think that's part of it's charm! And one which I think should not disappoint anyone who enjoys these three notes specifically. I got exactly what I expected from it, and more !

    4th October, 2009.

    rating

    African Queen Black Panther by AbdesSalaam Attar Profumo

    To me this fragrance smells almost exactly like blackcurrant wine gums. In fact just about any blackcurrant sweet I can think of. Even just freshly picked blackcurrants off the tree. Though the wine gums are most accurate. Spot on in fact ! ... So I can only presume that there is some blackcurrant (or perhaps blackcurrant bud ?) in this fragrance ??? Or else the blend of accords just somehow happen to smell blackcurrant-y, which is probably more likely ?? But that's definitely mostly what I get from it ~ lots of "dark" blackcurrants !
    Sometime later in the development I can also detect the scent of the Karo Karounde flower. Which smells much better here in a blend than it does when sniffed by itself, which can be a little far too much when in isolation. But here it works well, and gives this fragrance it's interesting and unusual "edge". There is also perhaps something a little reminiscent of clary sage ??? Though I do not think it is actually clary sage, but it does have similarities to it, I'd say. It's the only way I can think to describe it ??? With subtle tobacco hints too !? Underneath it all there is some subtle woods and a distinct animalic undertone. Of which I think is good ol' civit, "purring" away nicely, if I'm not mistaken !? Which of course gives the scent even more added interest ! (Though I suspect this scent will/might be a little scary for some ??!!) ... This is most definitely not a scent for just anyone. It aint "pretty", and certainly not an easy one to like ! It's one of those scents that will either elicit a strong like, or else a great instant dislike.
    But all in all, it is certainly a most unusual fragrance. It's deep and mysterious, and will be like nothing you've ever smelled before (except from blackcurrants of course). And it will certainly take an interesting and unusual person to carry it off.

    1st October, 2009.

    rating

    Rose Poivrée by Different Company

    This stuff certainly has changed. I mean, I've never really been a fan, even from before this new formulation. But at least it was a passable somewhat realistic rose bush fragrance ~ petals, leaves , stalks, thorns and all, and some added interest. And the first hour was/is pleasant-ish enough. An unusual rose, but then .... a couple of hours in and this stuff just turns seriously nasty. And I should first say that I hardly ever find a perfume "skanky", even when it actually is, it just does not bother me. I fully understand the function of these notes in perfumery. And even enjoy most of them, in moderation. But here, I'm afraid, the urinous notes are just far too much for me.
    It's like a blend of rose, dry grass, pepper, sweaty socks, and piss. Sorry, but I just do not find it at all pleasant after that first hour or so !

    1st October, 2009.

    rating

    Baldessarini Strictly Private by Baldessarini

    Sorry, but I have to strongly disagree with "Andrewthecologneguy's" review above (or below) me here. ... He berates "Strictly Private" for not being masculine enough ??? Yet, then goes on to say that "Fleur du Male" is a "manlier" scent ??? ... "Fleur du Male" is possibly one of the most strongly floral and "feminine" of men's scents. And, in my opinion, is actually way more "femme" smelling than "Strictly Private". (And by a good many "degrees" more !) ... It seems the main reason he came to this conclusion, is presumably because of the strong vanilla and "creme brulee" notes of SP's base. ... Personally I see absolutely no reason why vanilla should be considered as distinctly "feminine" in nature. There are many men's scents with much stronger vanilla notes.
    And yes, this Woody-Oriental is yet another fragrance with a vanilla and amber base. But certainly not overly so ! ... I would agree, that it isn't perhaps the most strongly masculine of scents. But neither is it particularly "feminine" or "girly". Although it does perhaps lean towards being somewhat more "unisex" than most. Enough so, that I would not be at all surprised if quite a few women will want to steal this one for themselves.
    The scent opens with a blend of basil, bergamot, juniper and pink pepper. Which is at once somewhat fresh but also warmed by the subtle peppery notes. It's quite a captivating opening, which then gradually becomes deeper and richer. When the "heart" of the fragrance unfolds a blend of Fir Balsam, Vetiver, Patchouli and Rose. Though the rose here is subtle, remaining strictly in the background and never becoming too prominent. The patchouli too just lends the scent some warmth, depth and "earthiness". (Patchouli haters need not be weary, as it too is judiciously used, never overriding the other notes). In fact the blend is such than none of the notes are actually ever particularly apparent individually. The base accord is that of vanilla, amber and cedar. Developing a somewhat woody "creme brulee-ish" note towards it's "drydown", which I found to be warm, comforting and really quite delicious.
    All in all, I think it's one of Baldessarini's better scent. (Possibly even the best fragrance released by P&G in quite some time) And I'd say a pretty good and slightly above average scent for a "designer" release. ... Though it could do with having better longevity

    23rd September, 2009.

    rating

    Joop! Thrill Men by Joop!

    Imagine "Bulgari Black" ... Right, now strip away it's "smoke" and "rubber tire" notes. ~ Voila ! = "Joop Thrill !" ... (An almost identical "vanilla accord" used in these two !)

    At first a little fresh pale apple, ... then ... a vanilla skin scent. Nothing more.

    Nothing spectacular, but certainly pleasant and cozy if you like vanilla-ry scents.


    20th September, 2009. (Last Edited: 13rd April, 2011.)

    rating

    212 Sexy Man by Carolina Herrera

    I really don't quite understand the above quoted similarities of "212 Sexy" to both "Le Male" and/or "Joop". To me I find them nothing alike. And both of which I believe to be superior to "212 Sexy". ~ The only thing I do think all three share is they're all strongly "love it" or "hate it" type fragrances, eliciting strong reactions from both "camps". (So I definitely strongly recommend "trying before buying" !!!)
    To me it smells rather strongly synthetic and somewhat "cheap" smelling, at first. (More befitting of a mere can of deodorant for example !). However it does redeem itself somewhat as it gets progressively much better towards it's way more attractive (& vanilla rich) "drydown". Which is actually quite pleasant ! ~ So if you are a lover of deep-woody-vanilla scents, and the top/mid notes don't bother you (or you're willing to wait/fight-thru them), you might well find the last few hours of the "drydown" richly rewarding !?
    So to recap : Atrociously assaulting synthetic "first-half", progressing to a quite gorgeous woody guaiac & vanilla "second-half". (And which is ultimately at it's utmost (sexy !) best when just traces linger on the skin the morning after !)

    14th September, 2009. (Last Edited: 24th February, 2011.)

    rating

    Gucci by Gucci pour Homme by Gucci

    Overtly synthetic, overtly generic "juice" with, unfortunately, few redeeming qualities ! (If any ?) ... Gucci seriously needs to be "rapped on the knuckles" for this one ! ... What unfortunate mediocrity !!!
    It opens with bergamot and very melon like fruity notes. Thankfully this "melon" does not stick around for too long. But then neither do the merest hints of the cypress and violet. (Which is a pity, as I was most looking forward to those !) ... It then swiftly exchanges any minimal sweetness it had from the fruit, for an oddly salty accord. Very reminiscent of the scent sea water would leave behind on "drying" skin. ... Here it's finally joined by the tobacco notes, together with some faint leathery woods. The reserved patchouli and incense is so in the background as to be almost non-existent.
    I found the salty tobacco notes probably it's only redeeming quality. Yet, too little, too late ! For the frag dissipates in no time at all, having dismal longevity too. A complete disappointment !!!

    14th September, 2009.

    rating

    Dambrosia by Profumum

    Dambrosia's notes are : Pear , Almond , Fig and Sandalwood.
    And it's one of those scents that happen to smell very much like what one would expect from the given notes. You can distinctly smell each of the notes unfolding. Perfectly blending into a lovely melange !
    It opens with a smooth as silk Pear and Almond blend ... which becomes ever more distinctly "figgy" as the scent progresses.
    It's also not as sweet as one might expect from the notes. With both the pear and almond being quite "natural", and not particularly "ripe" or "toasted" like. (Though the scent does pick up a certain "toastiness" later, towards the drydown, but here from the sandalwood and not the almond).
    Any sweetness there is comes from the pear, which is mostly a top note, and soon disappears into the fig accord.
    The almond is subtle and more the natural scent of the almond "fruit" picked straight off a tree as opposed to the more "nutty" or "marzipan & almond essence" note that one is more familiar with, or might expect. So the almond is here mostly in the background, lending the scent it's slight "creaminess", and "smoothing out all the edges". (It also oddly "rears it's head" again much later in the drydown ??).
    But the leading note here is most definitely the Fig. It really is pretty much basically a Fig Scent ! ... And an excellently done one at that !
    It's not a boozy or ripe fig accord. Being more the scent of the crushed leaves of the fig tree. (Though oddly enough still not particularly "green" as such, like one would find in Diptyque's "Philosykos", but a much "warmer" and "richer" scent overall, because of the almond and sandalwood). Though it is still a very "true to life" fig leaf note. And thankfully, it does not suffer the usual "trend" of smelling too "coconutty", as some fig scents tend to do. The coconut note is often used in a fig accord to lend it a certain creaminess. But, I find, too often it's heavy handed, being far too prominent and distracting from a true fig scent. The "creaminess" here is rather from the almond, which I think is actually more authentic. With the "richness" from the sweetish pear note. And of course from the warm delicious Sandalwood base that holds it all together beautifully.
    The Sandalwood lends the whole scent a subtle woody texture. Becoming more and more prominent and "woodier" as the scent progresses. But this is a Sandalwood "woodiness", which is never a very strong wood note.
    It also never completely looses it's lovely "figgy-ness". So you are left with a lightly fig "dusted" gorgeous sandalwood, many hours later.
    It's a gorgeous fig scent, that I highly recommend to any fig lover especially. (Or sandalwood lover for that matter !?) ... Fig and Sandalwood being such an excellent "winning" combination !
    It could fast become one of my favourite fig scents ?! ~ Just delicious !!!
    The scent opens on a slightly more "feminine" tone, but soon enough becomes perfectly "unisex", the moment the fig "kicks in", a few moments later.
    Another wonderful frag from Profumum, where the excellent quality of their ingredients is always apparent (if nothing else).

    9th September, 2009.

    rating

    Casmir by Chopard

    Casmir ~ Composed by Michel Almairac , is a warm, rich (ahem, very rich !) fruity-floriental, with a lovely comforting "aura".
    And it seems I like it exactly for the reasons a few others "above" dislike and dismiss it. ~ All the "vanilla, vanilla , vanilla" !
    In fact, it's particularly the "triple-wammy" blending of all the "vanillic" notes :Benzoin, Tonka Bean and Vanilla, (with an extra "little kick" from the Opoponax too) which is lending the vanilla it's full delicious richness.
    Now, as for the other notes that make up Casmir. Well, I have yet to come across another perfume with quite as many different "notes pyramids". I have found at least four or five, and they all differ from one to the next. And whilst there is some "overlap" of notes between a few, ... one differed entirely.
    So below I'm listing all the notes accumulated from all the different "pyramids" I found. (They may very well all be correct, who knows ???) ...
    Though I certainly could not smell all of these notes mentioned, and do believe some of them to be incorrect. (I could not smell any Geranium in it, for example. An easy note to detect usually, and one I have no difficulty "picking up"). ...
    So, the notes I listed below (in brackets) are the ones I believe incorrect, or at very least questionable .

    TOP : Bergamot, Mango, Peach, Apricot, Coconut,
    .........(Blackcurrant ?), (Raspberry ?), (Lemon ?)

    HEART : Mandarin, Jasmine, Ylang Ylang, Carnation, Cinnamon,
    .............(Geranium ?), (Muguet ? = Lily of the Valley)

    BASE : Vanilla, Benzoin, Tonka Bean, Opoponax, Sandalwood,
    .............(Amber ?), (Musk ?), (Castoreum ?), (Patchouli ?)

    I did not smell any Musk or Castoreum, and definitely didn't smell any Patchouli either. There is a possibility of some Amber. Although I believe that "ambery" quality to actually be from the vanilla and resins mix.
    So, bottom line : ... As you must have gathered by now, a deep luv of vanilla is a definite prerequisite to the enjoyment of Casmir. And it's also quite necessary to not mind a bit of "toasty coconut", for it's also quite apparent. ... And if you're a guy and enjoy these two notes, then this frag could perhaps be considered "borderline" unisex. But more so from "heart to base". For the pretty loud coconutty/floral/mango assault of the first hour or so, is a tad too "fruity-feminine". But if you can get through that "top", then the "second-half" certainly makes it all worthwhile ! ... The perfect scent to enjoy at home, in front of a log fire, in the middle of winter !

    14th August, 2009.

    rating

    Tomorrow for Him by Avon

    This is without a doubt the best scent Avon has released for men. (Along with "Black Suede Touch", for those of you who prefer your "leather scents" a little more subtle). ... I would wager a small fortune (well, maybe someone else's small fortune ;o) that "Tomorrow" would receive more acclaim and favourable praise were it sampled in a "blind test", for example. Or had it been released by some or other designer house. (Good value for money, in other words).
    An oriental gourmand, with principal notes of cocoa, vanilla, chocolate, patchouli and anise amongst a soft ambered woods base. It's a surprisingly decent scent. (Especially for it's "very affordable" price).
    The reviews that have likened it to "Lolita Lempicka au Masculine" are quite "spot on", as they are certainly quite similar. However here in "Tomorrow", the anise has been "dialed down" to a (for me at least) much more acceptable level. It is also not quite as sweet a scent.
    So if you've liked the sound of the "Lolita", but have been weary of it's sweetness or the "in your face" assault of licorice/anise. Then I would recommend you give this one a try instead. You might just be pleasantly surprised. ... On the plus side, it's much more affordable. On the minus side however, the longevity and sillage will also be somewhat reduced. (But hey, that is a preferable trait for some !). Though, don't get me wrong, it still has acceptably average (?) levels of both.

    1st August, 2009.

    rating

    Tom Ford Extreme by Tom Ford

    I don't understand everybody's issue here with longevity. I have a skin that usually swallows up scent, so I don't usually get much longevity from my fragrances. Well this Extreme lasted well up to six/seven hours on me, and I experience no problem with it being fleeting. And on a testing strip, the terribly delicious far drydown, I could still smell three days later, wafting off the strip. Actually this is somewhat unfortunate, because my absolute favorite part of this scent is actually this far drydown. Which develops on paper, two days later, which smells just heavenly. However when worn on skin it never gets a chance to develop, as the fragrance is long gone before reaching this stage.
    This scent, as has been noted here before, is totally different from the Tom Ford Man. There is not even a resemblance.. It should not be seen, or expect it to be the "extreme" version of the first scent. Because it is not. See it rather as a totally different fragrance , which just happens to be named Extreme. This makes much better sense.
    The opening notes of this fragrance are a very spicy accord, which is actually very remininscent (actually, almost exactly the same) as Jo Malone's Pomegranate Noir. The similarity is actually quite striking. Now whereas Pomegranate Noir continues with the same scent, with very little development or change, till it's drydown. Extreme changes and develops into a completely different, smooth accord for it's heart. This is when the scent becomes truly captivating. With the entrance of that simply delicious Italian Black Fig, Plum and Saffron accord. That this scent truly comes alive. This fruity sweetness is tempered by the violet leaves and ceder. At this point all these notes are not actually seperately perceived, as they just blend beautifully together to bring this enveloping sense of warmth and comfort.
    And just when you think it can't possibly get any better ... With the drydown it certainly does. This whole wonderful scent lies on a rich bed of Amber, Rum, Vetiver, Incense and Leather. And not forgetting the truelly delicious Vanilla and Truffle, which all together create a just spectacular base to a very beautifully authored fragrance.
    Not ever having encountered the Truffle note before in any other scent. I cannot actually pick it out amongst the other notes. But if it's contributing to the deliciousness of this marvelous vanilla accord. Then bring on the trufffles, and I will gladly play the "piggy".
    To me this scent smells exactly how a man should smell like.
    A total triumph, to my nose !

    8th April, 2009.

    rating

    Pi by Givenchy

    I am so incredibly tired of hearing this scent being described as "too much vanilla" by everyone and his dog. That it finally forced me to write a review to set some things "straight". I'm starting to believe that most of you, out there, don't actually know what vanilla smells like. The notes of this scent are as follows: Tangerine , (Basil , Pine Needle) , Infinium , Ironwood and Benzoin Crystals. (The basil and pine needle I'm actually sceptical about, but could not verify).
    What "you all" are smelling and mistakenly believe to be vanilla is actually the BENZOIN crystals. This is from a tree that is native to South-East Asia also known as Gum Benjamin. This tree exudes a gum that is water soluble, but when dry forms what is called "crystals". It has a balsamic smell that is somewhat similar to Myrrh. (It may even have a very slight vanilla "feel" and aroma to it because one of it's components is vanillic acid which is also in vanilla. But it still does not actually smell like vanilla. If you smell vanilla side by side with benzoin maybe then you will see how different they really are. Yes they are both sweet and balsamic type scents but ultimately two different scents. It is actually much more similar in scent to Opoponax (sweet myrrh) than it is to vanilla.
    The "Magnetic Woods" they are talking about is actually the ironwood. One of the heaviest woods known to man. As for the Infinium, which I've only ever seen used in one other scent before, in a cologn by Halston. I , unfortunately, still have no idea what that note actually is.
    I have found that this perfume smells almost exactly like Imperial Opoponax by Les Nereides. Though I still prefer the Imperial Opoponax as it's more refined, with better longevity and not as "cloying" if oversprayed. Lovers of Pi should give this one a try. It really is Pi's more beautiful and better behaved twin brother. He is a very "cuddly", warm and comforting scent.

    11th March, 2009.

    rating

    Ed Hardy Woman by Christian Audigier

    This fragrance is also known as ... Love Kills Slowly ... as that's what's printed on the skull "tatoo" design on it's packaging. It is a very fruity-floral that has been described as all sort of various fruit, depending on what your skin and chemistry tends to either bring out and emphasise or loose and "kill". I've heard it described as very strawberry-ish, as very mango-ish and yet somebody else say that it's nothing but melon start, middle and end ???
    I know someone else who swears that it smells exactly like "Garden Pear Glace" from Victoria's Secret. (though there are no pears in it. Then again there are no melons in it either). So, let me tell you exactly what is in it :
    Apple Souffle , Wild Strawberry , Mango , Red Grapefruit , Freesia Petals , Watery Muguet , Linden Blossom , Warm Amber , Musk , Tonka Beans , and
    Vanilla Pudding .
    Right, well those are the notes. But ... I did say exactly, so .......
    Alcohol Denat., Fragrance, Water, Linalool, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Benzyl Salicylate, Hydroxycitronellal, Alpha Methyl Ionone, Geraniol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Limonene, Eugenol, Citronellal, Isoeugenol, Coumarin, Benzyl Benzoate, Citral. .... is what it's made from.
    Hell, when I see it like this, I really start thinking what the hell am I putting on my skin? ... And no wonder it smells like one thing one and something else entirely to someone else.
    To me it's entirely super "fruity salad" at very first spray then as it settles (on my skin) it becomes a very similar scent to Juicy Couture (original). It's a very "girly" young smelling scent and I can't imagine many "women" really enjoying it much. But then I have noticed men do seem to just love it, for some reason (or is it just that name that's attracting them???). But I suppose that's at least a good point ..... ?!?
    It's an ok scent , but sophisticated it aint !

    8th March, 2009.

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