Fragrance Reviews by kess

To me, this is more "Musk Vanilla" than Amber Vanilla. So don't expect a lot of amber, this is more about a sweet musk scent. Extremely concentrated and only the tiniest amount is needed to know you are wearing it. Dries down to more musk. Could probably be worn by both genders, even though it's classified as feminine in the directory.

This is a very worthy entry into the 'iris' category -- it's earthy/rooty but not to the point that Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist takes it. Quite enjoyable, with discreet sillage but good staying power. It's linear but that's what I came to expect from iris/orris fragrances. I do not detect many other notes, iris/orris definitely dominates. Recommended for the iris lovers, along with Chanel La Pausa, Le Labo Iris or Heeley Iris de Nuit.

I'm surprised at the reviews since I've not found it strong or cloying -- but perhaps the difference is in the application. I applied lightly from a dab vial and I'm getting a lovely floral with an aldehydic top and a chypre-like base, not unlike some of the Chanels (perhaps Rue Cambon?). Very elegant and almost understated. The rose is present, but is wrapped in other "Chanel-like" notes, which is fine by me since I'm not a fan of straight up rose. The drydown is lovely and lingers a long time even after a light application.

Way to heady for my current tastes. Longevity and sillage are amazing, so great for those who love this fragrance. Brings to mind Estee Lauder Private Collection. Not for the faint at heart!

Not sure if my sample have mellowed out, but I was expecting something more pungent and animalitic. Instead, upon the immediate application, I smell birch tar, and then something leathery-sweet-smoky. Surprisingly, I could see myself wearing it just by itself.

This is a nice summery cologne, with an amber base that I find very pleasing. It's best for a hot and humid day outdoors; it's a bit subtle to shine in an air conditioned space. Thumbs up overall for its 'naturalness' and uplifting qualities.

A very interesting lavender scent -- actually, a 'rendition' of lavender rather than true to life scent. Pillowy, smoky and dry -- makes me think of lavender fields under a hot sun.

To sum this up for me -- "musk soap." Nice when I bury my nose into my arm, but the overall sillage is quite soapy, hence the neutral rating. I'm just beginning to explore musks, so please take my opinion with a grain of salt. On another hand (literally), I also tried Serge Lutens Muscs Kublai Khan today and I found it much more appealing.

The opening is indeed wonderful, but very quickly the top citrus/rosy notes dissipate and I'm left with a metallic note that I also detect in TDC Bois d'Iris and Terre d'Hermes, which I don't enjoy. With the addition of musky vetiver, it's too 'cologny' for me at this stage. Probably better as a masculine. Giving it a neutral rating, since it's 'fresh' and 'natural' smelling -- and not in a sickly-synthetic way that a lot of department store fragrances are guilty of.

I was not as impressed by SDV as I expected I would be. I was expecting something akin to Indult Tihota (smoky dry vanilla), but instead I'm getting an intense cherry note that reminded me of Guerlain's own La Petite Robe Noire. Vanilla only comes out after an hour or so, so I'm not sure what's going on.

I don't know what this is, but this fragrance literally set my teeth on edge. The sample I got in the mail leaked a tiny bit (into the small plastic baggie, which was open just a bit), and when I opened the package a powerful aroma emanated to fill the area around it. I double packed the sample in additional baggies, but left the mailer behind. Kept wondering where I getting the big whiffs of the scent from. Then realized that the package was still sitting there on the table. Whoah! Giving it a neutral rating as it does not look like I will be able to wear it in public. Not for the faint at heart. This is raw, powerful stuff. I was getting mostly cedar, very little vanilla.

As advertised: roses and chocolates, very nicely done (and this is from a rose 'non-lover.) Longevity is great. Thumbs up!

An amazing woody-vanilla oriental; the notes say it all. Thumbs up!

This is an excellent substitute to Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque, if you don't want to spend the big bucks and/or want to support US-based artisan parfumeries. Longevity is excellent.

This is mostly a light incense to my nose. Very "Japanese" -- or at least to me, a Westerner, who never been to Japan :-)

Although it's classified as a feminine, it's quite unisex.

Notes per Ava Luxe web site: top note of citrus and a hint of berries, a heart of rose, ylang-ylang, orange flower and iris, and a base of sandalwood, vetiver, amber and vanilla.

This is an amber/oriental scent, with a slight animalitic edge, which dissipates pretty soon. It's mostly amber to my nose, with a sweet and voluptuous bend. This scent should be a no-brainer for any amber/oriental lover, and you cannot go wrong with Ava Luxe pricing.

This is a semi-sweet, smoky amber. Straightforward, but that's what I like about it. Recommended for amber lovers and for those who like their amber straight up. (This review is for perfume oil: I somehow got a sample of the oil from Ava Luxe, although the web site does not list oil as an option).

Woody, balsamic, peppery and smoky! This is a great scent, quite unisex. It does not create the same enveloping 'aura' like Montale's aoud scents do, but it fine nonetheless.

Eau Suave is indeed lovely, and not a ’straight up’ rose (which works for me since I’m not a rose person). Many of the PdE scents have an enveloping quality to me — like wearing a nice cashmere shawl, and Eau Suave is no exception. I also get a lot of saffron, which probably adds to the ’suave’ effect.

This is a wonderful scent -- mostly a green floral to me, but very soft and tempered with other notes. It opens quite green, with crushed leaves, but then settles into the floral heart, with a feminine base. It's quite lady-like (in a positive way) and exudes class, elegance and sophistication. It reminded me of Parfums de Nicolai Odalisque -- the scents are not alike, but share the same lovely and sophisticated attitude.

I've enjoyed wearing my sample very much, but will not be buying because of the silly price. But it's definitely worth sampling -- just for the experience.

This is a bright and true to life rose. This scent is probably more for rose lovers, and I get the predominant rose and not much else. It lasts a long time and a little goes along way.

I really like myrrh, but this is awful because of the soap. I typically don't like soapy notes, but can tolerate them if nicely done. But no, this is not the luxe soap you get in most fragrances. Elf (below) was spot on about the Soviet soap -- this is an extremely true (although I assume accidental) rendition of the nasty brown "Khozyaystennoye" soap that I had plenty of exposure too during my childhood. I can detect nice myrrhe lurking in the background but the soap makes it a scrubber for me.

For me, this is "Myrrhe and Mauvais Souvenirs."

Comparing Osmanthus by Ormonde Jayne and Osmanthus Interdite by Parfum d'Empire.

Impressions: OJ goes on very crisp, citrucy and candied at the same time, while PdE is soft, almost suede-like with earthy undertones (somehow it makes me think that this is how osmanthus pollen may smell like -- soft and dusky). OJ comes across as a light fragrance, almost a cologne, with osmanthus. Not being a fan of 'refreshing cologne' type of perfume, I have to say I prefer Parfum d'Empire's version.

After about 30 minutes OJ has calmed down and is not as "in your face" as earlier. It's now pleasantly sweet and fresh. PdE is still going strong with the leather undertones; I'm not detecting much progression.

Overall, I perceive PdE as more "substantial" and it's still my favorite of the two.

Watery and transparent -- too much so for my liking. Opens nice and green, but settles into a "light musky base", which I do not like.

Very smoky incense -- not for the faint at heart! Layers well with my sweeter scents.

Notes listed are: Hibiscus, Bergamot, Magnolia, Amber and Heliotrope
This is a quite pleasant floral -- perfect for when you don't want something "dark" or "complicated." It feels like an Eau de Cologne -- with sharp alcohol in the opening, but quickly settles down to reveal hibiscus and citrus notes.

Scent is neither here nor there for me. After sniffing Costume National 21, and being totally smitten, I wanted to try their first fragrance. After mellow/spicy 21, this was a letdown: semi-floral, semi-aquatic, with some citrus thrown in. I think it would make a nice, light men's cologne. If, like I was, you are interested in Scent after trying 21, don’t bother. Otherwise, it's a perfectly nice fragrance, just nothing special about it.

I tried this recently -- I could not get past the "soap" stage (must be the aldehydes). When not overpowered by the soap "accord", I sense rather nice florals (violets?), but I can only get whiffs of those, and then back to the soap. Overall, it smells like a very luxe, very expensive soap, but not a perfume I'd wear. Definitely try before you buy.

Melon melon melon! It so profoundly smells of cantaloupe that I cannot imagine myself wearing it. It may be nice in shampoo or shower gel (sort of tropical and sweet), but not in a perfume, and from a house like Hermes. The fruity cantaloupe scents also screams "cheap" to me.

Fairy Dust is generically sweet fruity/floral "celebrity" fragrance. Not much too it -- it did not stand out to me at all. What is "Processo accord" exactly? Makes me think of cheap bubbly wine, and the perfume feels equally cheap. The Fairy Dust name is "cute" but it's about all to recommend this scent by. Totally forgettable.

This must be one of the weirdest scents I've sampled. The best way to describe it is "honey and cooking grease." It is strangely appealing, but can also be nauseating -- the line is that thin between the two reactions, depending on the proportion of grease vs honey I can smell at any given time. It's an insidious scent with great staying power; the miasmas do not lose strengths for hours even after a light application. I can imagine someone wearing Miel De Bois strictly for kicks, but I don't see myself spending my hard earned money on this.

"Stale chocolate" describes this well. Cloying, 'sweet'ish -- almost headache inducing. Can't imagine either a man or a woman wearing it well.

I've seen this being described as "Joy with raspberry" and although I've never smelled Joy, there's definitely raspberry. The flacon gives off a scent of raspberry when I pick it up. The opening is not unlike being hit with a bowl of fruit salad over your head. Very strong, almost cloying scent. The drydown is more pleasant, but I can't suffer through all the sweet fruit to wait to get to it.

this is a somewhat strange scent -- the best I can describe it is a sweet herbaceous floral. Seems rather simple, "innocent" (i.e. unsophisticated). I feel like I'm 12 when I wear it. Thumbs down for me.

I agree with the description of "fizzy leather", but for me it comes across as shrill and sweet at the same time. There is a twist to it that is unpleasant to me. Try before buying!

It a very generic (of a 'generic department store scent' kind) -- I wore it for a few years soon after it came out, and I can't even remember what it smelled like. It's definitely not offensive, but rather forgettable.