Perfume Reviews

Reviews by MFJ

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Total Reviews: 190

Private Collection - L'Oiseau de Nuit by Parfumerie Generale

I've yet to try another PG that is as sweet as this. Honeyed, floral-amber with light touches of smoke and booze.
13th May, 2010

Navegar by L'Artisan Parfumeur

I get lime, melon, pepper, and a cedar base. Did I say typical? Well, for a light, breezy citrus scent, I can't fault it for being extremely pleasant and easy-going. There is so much more out there that is worth more attention than Navegar.
05th May, 2010

Fou d'Absinthe by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Herbal-green, resinous, with a nice touch of sweet spices. Another marvelous and understated work of Olivia Giacobetti.
04th May, 2010
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Eau de Gloire by Parfum d'Empire

Eau de Gloire opens with a rather tingly sharp, spicy-green citrus with a raw herbal tinge of lavender. As the sharp opening settles and blows away, the smokiness starts to reveal itself, and I am left with an herbal, leathery, smokey and slightly vinegary base. For an EDT, I am very impressed at longevity and sillage. This is my go-to when I am in the mood for an EDC-type scent.
15th April, 2010

Felanilla 21 by Parfumerie Generale

This is one of my favorite PG compositions along with L'Ombre Fauve. If you're expecting it to be like a conventional sticky, creamy and sweet gourmand-y vanilla, you'd be in for a surprise! This one opens with an accord of fizzy saffron, and oily, slightly carroty and buttery iris. This duo seems to combine to give a rather quirky aroma. The vanilla here doesn't exactly take centre-stage. I understand that the idea of Felanilla is "Feline Vanilla" and I have to say that Moltening got it right when he mentioned that the Iris, Saffron and Banana wood have been infused to mimic an animalic accord (As Feline would suggest), and that at first whiff can actually smell a little like antiseptic. The vanilla which rounds up the Iris, Saffron, Banana wood accords, isn't anything too rich or sweet. As the scent settles, the ambery vanilla, soapy musk, and some lingering iris and saffron is what is left for one to enjoy. This is my choice non-gourmand vanilla. In fact, it was through Moltening's recommendation that I got introduced to this. And being a fan of saffron, iris, vanilla, musk, this scent is a winner. It is easy to identify and detect the notes in this one as they are all well-represented and managed, never being mashed into some accord too difficult to breakdown or understand. A simple composition, yet so alluring, addictive and warm.

My only gripe: Even for a skin-scent, it ought to have much better longevity! It is an "Eau De Parfum Intense" after all...


Moltening's review is probably the most accurate for me.
10th April, 2010 (last edited: 11th April, 2010)

Vanille Aoud by Martine Micallef

This bottle was bought blind, and I got lucky with this one. The vanilla here is a highly sweetened, wholesome and gourmandy one. "Rich and creamy" as mentioned by the reviewer before me is an accurate description of it. What is interesting here is how the zingy aroma of oud compliments the vanilla and sets it apart from being a typical vanilla gourmand. One would most likely find the caramel+vanilla combo strikingly similar to the one in Un Bois Vanille of Serge Lutens. It is the oud that gives Vanille Aoud a different complexion, and a little more substance. This is a pretty straight-forward and unchallenging scent. The name fits the concoction perfectly. Sweet-toothed vanilla lovers alert!
08th April, 2010

Encens Flamboyant by Annick Goutal

The resinous opening in Encens Flamboyant is nicely and softly surrounded by a little dose of spice and herb. It then works its way to settle into a well-behaved misty incense and smoked wood scent. A rather understated fragrance. Love it.
07th April, 2010

Tea for Two by L'Artisan Parfumeur

This entry is currently under revision!
07th April, 2010 (last edited: 28th July, 2010)

Black Orchid by Tom Ford

Coconut, vanilla, florals and fruits and a wee bit of smoke. Rich, sweet and smooth. A dark and highly satisfying gourmand scent for my sweet tooth. It thins out and and dries down into a so-so floral-woody base, which I am not the biggest fan of. But still, for the most part of each time I wear it, it is highly enjoyable.
03rd April, 2010

Muscs Koublaï Khän by Serge Lutens

My nose gets a sweet opening of civet and rose, which starts to turn salty as it settles on skin. Though I find the vanilla/amber accords to be rather subdued, I notice how they add depth to the composition, while the scent manages to maintain a thinness to it, that feels transparent. A salty-sweet civet oriental. I had secretly wished I could break up the raving party. Alas...

*New proud owner thanks the fragrance deities for MKK's release to the export range*
20th March, 2010

Private Collection - L'Ombre Fauve by Parfumerie Generale

A soft, creamy animalic musk galore surrounded by dry woods and some patchouli. A slightly sweetened vanilla and some smoke adds an ambery and dusty dimension to this gentle beast, as it starts to settle on skin. My most fruitful blind-buy of the past 2 years.
18th March, 2010 (last edited: 19th March, 2010)

Equistrius by Parfum d'Empire

At first whiff, the thick and fruity iris is almost an over-kill. But let it settle for a while and you will notice how the steamed rice accord compliments and amps the doughy smell/texture of the iris, pushing the fruity accords slightly into the background now, but still borrowing the fruity sweetness.

Interestingly, a rather briny/salty accord reveals an ozonic dimension to Equistrius, and I really quite enjoy this addition here. All this is built on a powdery and smooth sandalwood base that it eventually dries down to.
18th March, 2010 (last edited: 19th June, 2010)

Paestum Rose by Eau d'Italie

A casual, light and thin rose, bolstered by some incense and given depth with some woods. Sweet, but not diabetic. Rose refinement.
18th March, 2010
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Cuir Ottoman by Parfum d'Empire

A thick, woody leather, with a very good dose of buttery iris. There is a sweet ambery and resinous complexion to Cuir Ottoman that makes this composition a rather rich one. One of the best leather representations I have experienced.
18th March, 2010

Idole de Lubin by Lubin

This is a light and thin scent. It opens with some rum soaked dry citrus and fizzy saffron in a light cloud of smoke. Then it settles effortlessly into a smooth and quiet sandalwood. Very low key, but very well-done.
16th March, 2010

Un Bois Vanille by Serge Lutens

A caramelized vanilla scent that does seem to be a semi-gourmand to my nose. Done in typical syrupy fashion, with a little smoke and woods thrown in. For the most part, it appears a rather linear vanilla scent, a quality one.
01st March, 2010

Cereus Pour Homme No. 14 by Cereus

This opens with a citrus-woody-(lavender maybe) aromatic blend. The cognac reveals itself almost immediately and instantly reminds me of Escada Pour Homme. There is a subtle milky-smooth texture that seems to be an attribute of the amber-musk accord. I also detect what seems like basil leaf in the later stages. The composition remains a rather sweet one throughout the wear and dries down into a smooth woody-green base.
19th February, 2010 (last edited: 30th March, 2010)

Lalique pour Homme by Lalique

EDP: This opens with a typical dose of citrus and dries down into a soft and powdery patchouli and vanilla base. On my skin, the oakmoss tends to reveal itself in a slightly sourish form, which is the only part I do not really fancy about it.
18th February, 2010

Cold by Benetton

This is a very decent fresh fragrance. I get a combination of citrus and a candy-like green accord. It could also very possibly be the listed vanilla that contributes to the very appealing sweetness. This actually smells a whole lot better than many recent designer releases of a similar genre, that are more than 5 times the cost.
03rd February, 2010

Escada Homme by Escada

You know, this could have easily made it into the Lutens line up. A substantial scent that is rich in vanilla and woods. Sweet and slightly powdery in a very good way, and almost feels milky thick. I don't care too much for the opening, but it doesn't last too long anyways. The dry-down is deserving of praise. Escada did a fantastic job with this one.
28th January, 2010

Ambre Russe by Parfum d'Empire

Ambre Russe opens with an accord that smells like bitter dark chocolate. It then reveals a heart that smells like whiskey/brandy and some leather. When everything else blows away, a light skin scent of honeyed and spiced dried tea lingers. Glorious.
25th January, 2010 (last edited: 18th March, 2010)

Time for Peace for Him by Kenzo

Like Yohji Homme, and many things Japanese, Time For Peace Pour Lui is an extremely light and inoffensive scent. Opens with a very thin Mandarin note that is accompanied lightly by some woods and spices, and rounded up with a small dose of vanilla. Extremely easy to wear and highly pleasant to the nose. Nothing sharp, synthetic, or harsh in this scent. It feels kind of airy.
16th January, 2010

Poison by Christian Dior

Vintage Esprit De Parfum - Amazing quality. Honeyed, ambery-sweet floral bouquet that lasts forever, despite not being powdery, cloying, stuffy or loud. A light dab goes a long way. Truly a masterpiece from Dior.
15th January, 2010

Ungaro pour L'Homme I by Ungaro

This scent opens with a smooth blend of sweet citrus and aromatic lavender with a little bit of spice in the background. Soon enough, a bouquet of lush floral notes start to reveal themselves and one is most likely to identify the rose and jasmine. One gets an impression of lovely floral scented wood. The scent then settles into a sweet, incense-y amber accord that earlier complimented the other prominent notes so effortlessly and masterfully. The oakmoss also adds a sour-bitter herbal touch to the amber base. Simply delightful. Everything seems to be in just the right portion, with nothing overdone or lacking. Such a beautiful scent should never have been discontinued.
11th January, 2010

Missoni Uomo by Missoni

Thanks to Dimitrios from Down Under, I got to sample this. To my nose, the opening starts with a herb-infused lemony aroma. As with my previous sampling of this, an extremely sweet accord of Jasmine resting on uber powdery frankincense(?) and amber starts to surface and dominate the entire scent. There is a flour-like texture beneath all that sweetness. There is also a civet-y element here that is similar to that in Givenchy Gentleman (newer formulation). This is a powerhouse sweet amber scent and is best smelled from a distance lest it gets too cloying or stuffy. This is really potent stuff that I may have some trouble wearing regularly, but I have to give credit to quality, where it is due.
10th January, 2010

Alain Delon / AD by Alain Delon

It opens with very nice spices and citrus in a typical 80s style, and within minutes on my skin, starts to reveal the slightly-candied sweetness of aldehydes. The aromatic woods in the base instantly reminds me of Rochas Lui, while retaining a good dose of the citrus in the background, and the benzoin gives it a nice incense-y and slightly powdery texture. There is very mild tint of green bitterness from the moss near the end. How this is discontinued is beyond me. IMO, this could do very well in this day and age.
10th January, 2010

Musc Nomade by Annick Goutal

Absolutely love this composition. This is rather light and breezy compared to the other 3 from the Les Orientalistes releases. There is a very pleasant woody, floral and resinous undertone that has been put together exceptionally well to compliment the clean musk. Nothing dirty about this one at all, the civet is pretty tame, but still noticeable in a transparent-like manner.
07th January, 2010 (last edited: 22nd March, 2010)

Ambre Fétiche by Annick Goutal

The opening reminded me of plain biscuits (crackers), weirdly. It doesn't start off sweet, but works its way slowly into a rather conventional smoky vanilla base that is very lightly spiced. While I enjoy it, it is hardly mind-blowing. I would have preferred a little more intensity in this one.
07th January, 2010 (last edited: 07th April, 2010)

Love in Black by Creed

I have to admit that part of the reason I decided to buy this one was so that the bottle would look sweet beside my Love In White. However, I did not need much convincing that I wouldn't regret my purchase, as the juice turned out to be something that I adore. I've mostly been exposed to Violet-leaf scents, but not so much violet (flower). Love In Black gave me a good impression of Violet, especially when complimenting the other prominent player - Iris. There is an unusual synthetic fruity sweetness that seems to be present throughout the wear, and which I find pretty enjoyable as well. I do get some rose, but very minimal musk here. No regrets.
07th January, 2010

Chypre Rouge by Serge Lutens

I am not exactly sure how the term "Chypre" actually relates to this scent, but Chypre Rouge is bottle-worthy for me. I really enjoy the sweet cherry cough syrup accord in M7, so it was no surprise, that Chypre Rouge is highly appealing to me. The combination of thyme, fruit gums and honey, gives Chypre Rouge an almost heady medicinal accord that I am weirdly extremely fond of. I am under the impression that pine is supposed to be a dominant player in this composition, unfortunately, it is rather shy to my nose. Still this is an excellent fragrance that I am a proud owner of.
07th January, 2010