 | Spice and Wood by CreedThis is exactly as advertised: a cedary-spciy fragrance that is very mild and almost watery in its presentation. I can't imagine the longevity is very good. The projection is vague at best. So why is it great? Because it smells awfully nice. But somehow it seems almost all to simple. 30th January, 2012. |
| | Hay by Santa Maria NovellaA wonderful natural fragrance that is evocative of nature and blending. It is not a pipe tobacco scent at all, but if you take the idea of a "leaf" or "grain" (of some kind) and blend it with other natural things, you could get the idea of how this quiet gem is put together. So special, it is hard to forget. And all the better, because there's no other fragrance in this country that I know about that is anything like SMN's Hay. Sounds silly, contrived, odd, preposterous? It is magnificent. 9th January, 2012. |
 | Acqua di Parma Colonia Essenza by Acqua di ParmaThis is a very nice fragrance, and certainly a family member along with the original and some of the others (but not all!). While I complain about original AdeP's problem with longevity, for some reason, I still like it best. It is the most natural; it is the one that drew me in to this greatest of Italian line of fragrances. Now, this is fine, and it does last longer. Maybe that is good. But maybe the original is still the best. Nothing smells artificial with the original, and maybe, just maybe I sense something derivative and slightly artificial here. This is like a fine resort, with a gorgeous swimming pool and real palm trees shipped in, a pool that is open all hours and has piped in music. How lovely and relaxing, but give me the beach, the original where you feel closer to nature. The people at Acqua di Parma are going too far. Let it be, let it be. Don't listen to us. Who really give a fig about longevity when you make somethings that are so nearly perfect. 17th April, 2011. |
| | Iris Nobile by Acqua di ParmaThis definitely has iris, but it comes and goes so fast it could make your head spin. Cool, friendly and delicious, it has a nice touch of the AdeP house smell, and that makes it all very all right. I think of Kristen Scott Thomas or Meryl Streep when I smell this. Best on a classy dame who is not impressed by clliches or boundaries or whether she is classy or a dame, thank goodness.. Men? Not really. 17th April, 2011. |
| | Oud For Highness 75 by KriglerThis is a woody, sweet, oriental fragrance that makes a great initial impression. I understand that it was designed for an Eastern monarch, and that comes through in the presentation. While the notes seem to be the same as those you can find in a lot of other current offerings, this is unique and very impressive. Retro, like all Kriglers, this should be used in stringent moderation, unless you are a monarch with your own retinue. Makes a statement that's for sure. 5th March, 2011. |
| | Sartorial by Penhaligon'sThis fragrances seems to elicit lengthy narrative reviews concerning Sartorial's intention to evoke a complex narrative of its own. Not as a scent that befits a well dressed man, but a scent that smells like a tailoring shoppe, that's the goal here. I find it a jumble of odd notes that bespeak nothing much except the marvelous "out of the box" creativity of the maker. Ultimately, I didn't like it at all. Sure, it's something of a magic trick to get a fragrance to make you think of beeswax, but the question is "Why?". Women's fashion shows display myriads of wildly creative dresses that real women would never wear. The creativity has run riot, but there's nothing there nothing to wear. Similarly I would say congratulations to Penhaligon's for bringing this to market. I would never wear it, but it is interesting. Now give me something that works with a Henry Poole sports coat! 30th January, 2011. |
| | Mark Birley For Men Charles Street by Mark BirleyMark Birley for Men --Charles Street is a subtle-complex fragrance. For a fragrance to be both subtle and complex is hard to achieve, but Mark Birley Charles Street does it exceedingly well It starts off as a fairly dry, quasi-gourmand, fragrance devoid of sweetness. Some people have said that on the opening they smelled leather, or Scotch whisky. I find that funny in a way, because I get something that is awfully hard to describe, but the closest I can come to describing it is something like a "new tires" vibe, which stuns me as I have never smelled anything like it before, and I absolutely love it. Too bad the opening burst doesn't last all that long. Over time, MBCS becomes warmer, with a hint of sweetness. I wish I could detect the rose and lilly-of-the-valley that are said to be in the middle notes, but alas I don't. Such sweetness as there is in the development doesn't come across as floral to my nose. It is the amber or perhaps vanilla that add that tiny touch of sweetness. Like its Mark Birley precedent, it is not loud or "out there" in any way. It starts with some decent projection, but it seems to become more of a skin scent in due course. Don't think, however, that that means that no one but you can detect it. In fact it is there, but again it is subtle and alluring. Some may say that MBCS lacks longevity, but that is not true. It is just not loud, but others will let you know with a smile or a word that it is there. I do not detect the carrot seed element which I do smell and I don't particularly like in the original Birley. Not a power house fragrance, Charles St. is more a penthouse fragrance. Not totally modern exactly, but it is keeping up with the times. Self assured and elegantly low-keyed describe Charles Street best. Even a fragrance-phobe might like this. Not groundbreaking, nevertheless it bespeaks a very high degree of quality and savoir faire, and that's says a lot in my book. 18th December, 2010. (Last Edited: 23rd February, 2011.) |
| | Vetiver by EtroThis is a wonderful, dry, rooty, "in-your-face" vetiver fragrance that contradicts any notion that a fragrance should somehow enhance your appearance; or make others like you more. This is a fragrance that is pure statement: "hey this is how I like to smell". It is modern art in an impressionistic world. It is vetiver with every complimentary note that draws out more of the unpretty elements of vetiver. It is so out there it's great. Think Ward Bond; think Jimmy Cagney: think Clive Owen in "The Croupier". Metrosexual? In your dreams pretty boy. 18th December, 2010. |
| | Old England by Hugh ParsonsBeing a huge fan of Traditional Blue and 99 Regent Street, I was looking forward to a 50ml bottle of Old England coming to me from Germany with keen anticipation. Unfortunately, as yet, this fragrance has not wormed its way into my heart. It is very modern, full of citrus, it's a fruit vendors delight. It is also aquatic in the "me too" tradition of current issues from just about everybody. There might even be banana in there somewhere. Very modern doesn't really conform to a view of "Merry" Old England. I don't get the connection at all. Not bad, and would be fine in the summer, but it is neither particularly English nor Old (as in traditional). Just wait, as with 99 Regent St. which didn't appeal to me at first, I bet next year I will love it. But for now with over six months together........eh...... Sorry, Hugh Parsons, I love you guys, but this one seems like a dead miss to me. 11th December, 2010. (Last Edited: 4th January, 2011.) |
| | Krigler America One by KriglerAmerica One, like all Krigler's I have tried, is a very unusual nostalgic fragrance. Cold modernity has not intruded onto the minds of the makers of this fragrance. It is aromatic, almost camphorous, and more that just a bit minty and soapy. It is not particularly "masculine" nor "feminine" nor "unisex" -- it defies those characterizations entirely. After all, would the scent worn by an old uncle or auntie be something you would characterize based on gender or experience? This is a fragrance of nostalgia and experience. This is a history lesson in a bottle. A beautiful, strange history lesson. It is pretty much the opposite of what one would conceive as a modern fragrance. It is not subtle, easily understood or intentionally non-offensive. This is a fragrance that knows its name, and likes it. This is more of an upfront powerhouse, but just maybe it goes so far back that it would make the 80s powerhouse fragrances seem vulgar. It tries to some extent to smell fresh with an added element of mint and some other odd unpredictable fresh notes that I can't grab. (Is that Tide I smell?) But in the final analysis it's not really a fresh scent. It is not a shy fragrance by any means, but it is well, I guess you'd say "nice" (unless it's put too strongly, and then wouldn't be nice). 6th December, 2010. (Last Edited: 24th December, 2010.) |
| | Fougère Royale by HoubigantFougere Royale circa 2010 is perhaps the relaunch of an historic fragrance, but it did not bowl me over, or offer anything revelatory about the structure or character of these types of fragrances. It was neither eye opening nor jaw dropping. While it is certainly not boring, and I liked it a lot, it was not so compelling as to displace the ferns from Penhaligon and Trumpers, in my estimation. Further, it didn't say anything so new as to make it a "must have" for fougere lovers unless there is a need to own all such fragrances. FR may have come before those others, but the FR that is available today doesn't displace the other good-to-excellent alternatives on the market. It settles into a lovely classic mens' fragrance that becomes more barbershop that the other ferns I have mentioned, and it has more staying power than either Wild Fern or English Fern. Nevertheless, at the relatively high cost of entry, one would want to be seriously seduced into buying it. So far that has not happened to me. 4th December, 2010. (Last Edited: 30th April, 2011.) |
| | Bell'Antonio by Hilde Soliani ProfumiA charming pipe tobacco and coffee fragrance this is not really for the ladies. It is Bell Antonio not Bella Antonia. A slightly strange but warm and charming fragrance of somewhat limited utility and oddball appeal. Nice fragrance but pricey, might work for a book signing or maybe a day at the museum. 16th October, 2010. |
| | Windsor by CreedWindsor come off as very powdery and "old man" or "old lady-ish" on me. I didn't find it terribly captivating except in the dry down and ultimate evolution which will be discussed below. It is, however, tenacious in its staying power, especially for a Creed, which I experience as lasting about as long as a May fly. In fact, I currently have no Creed fragrances, because I have the (unreasonable?) expectation that a fragrance should last a couple of hours, at least. Well, anyway, Windsor lasted all day and well into the night. Amazing durability. The rose was funny and funky on me. It reminded me of Il Profumo Touregh, which I did not like either. The lime/juniper/gin whatever was a jumble, and I didn't care for it much. What I did like was the way it evolved during the day. This fragrance doesn't go from one thing to another, what it does do is that it drops off one or two notes at a time over the course of the day and becomes simpler, and less complex, and more enjoyable in the process of reduction of notes. I liked it much more at 9 PM than I did at 1 PM. Ten elements were down to three or maybe two. I thought this was a fascinating way to evolve a fragrance, and showed a lot of prowess in the maker. Still, would I wear it? Would I spend the money for this? No, I don't think so. I didn't find it captivating, urgently needed, or desired above all others. No, it wasn't my Mrs. Simpson. I wouldn't give up the throne for this, or even around $600 dollars for that matter. It is interesting, thought, very, very interesting. 8th October, 2010. |
| | Brioni by BrioniThis is a warm, sophisticated one of a kind gentleman's fragrance. It is totally in the spirit of high-end, elegant style. It is a cousin or best friend of Guerlain's Derby and Dunhill 1934. What is really worth admiring about Brioni is the superb structure. In the structural area it is comparable to the monumental Derby. It's wonderful development reminds me of the now gone but not forgotten Dunhill. Ultimately, however, Brioni is just Brioni, as nearly perfect a fragrance as is in production today. Subtle (if applied correctly) yet very distinctive, in summary it comes down to two words: first class. 7th October, 2010. |
| | Aramis Cool Blend by AramisAramis Cool (2010) is disappointing if one is looking for an updated interpretation of the classic Aramis. I had hoped it would have more of the signature Aramis house scent, but it doesn't. There's not much of anything "Aramis-like" in this. It is modern, light and pleasant. The word pleasant could be applied to many if not most modern fragrances. This is all right, but not particularly distinctive. Modern, pleasant and forgettable in my opinion, I think I will pass, if I think about it at all. 17th April, 2010. |
| | Beige by ChanelBeige is one of the finest women's fragrances I have ever experienced. It is elegant, sophisticated, understated and modern. Because it is modern it is very subtle. Most of what I like is either "classic" (read been around a long time) or "niche" (read small quantity producer had to find) but this defies these classifications and goes beyond them. It is timeless and elegant, and defies a lot of notes analysis. I would be totally intrigued with any woman who would wear this. The only problem, and it is slight, is that it doesn't project a great deal. That's the modern bit again. But in a woman's hair, or on her gloves or sweater it would be the potential basis of a serious romantic obsession. Any women who has style and grace should consider owning this fragrance. It reminds me of the young Jennifer O'Neal or maybe even the young Candace Bergen. It may be the polar opposite of my other obsessional favorite, Vega by Guerlain, but that's all right. Yes, they are night and day opposites, and I love them both, but that's all right. Night for Vega and Day for Beige, and we have worked all that out. Run out now and try this, please! 21st February, 2010. |
| | Victrix by ProfumumVictrix is a wonderfully natural green fragrance that has a captivating sense of freshness to it. This is almost the perfect Spring and Summer fragrance that makes me think of the most luscious green garden I could imagine. Added to the simple beauty is a whiff of spice and pepper that add the breeze to the garden. How did they do that? What a wonderful evocative work of art. The only thing it doesn't do is make me sneeze from my summer allergies. 4th February, 2010. |
| | 99 Regent Street by Hugh ParsonsThis is a fine, cool, mildly aloof fragrance that is excellent for the warmer months. I think it would suit a lot of men who are on the fence about fragrances. It is not sweet, and has a lively clean but rich essence. Violet leaf is not my favorite smell, and I am not going to suggest for a moment that 99 Regent St. would ever be a signature scent for me, but I am happy that I own it, and think that it has a place in one's wardrobe when one needs something that is both distinctive yet a touch formal , without being arrogant. One could wear this to an interview or a meeting that one knows in advance is not going to be entirely pleasant yet one wants to go in there with a smile on his face and wants to project a touch of savoir faire. I don't go to this one a lot, but life is fully of challenges and there are going to be days when 99 Regent St. helps with some of them. 11th January, 2010. (Last Edited: 28th January, 2011.) |
| | Une Rose by Editions de Parfums Frederic MalleTested this several times at the scent bar at Barney's and I must say it is a wonderfully unusual fragrance-- one moment it gives me this beautiful natural rose accord, straight forward, and dewy fresh; then later it gets a little dusky and rich. The impression I get is half-and-half; half a proper and sophisticated day rose; half a more complex evening fragrance. I really like it; and I think it would have suited The Duchess of Windsor out for the day shopping in Paris or for a more contemporary icon (and going to the other extreme) Dita von Teese at home; a woman who would look perfectly natural in a Chanel or St. John suit; or a sheer lace nightgown. The fragrance is both socially acceptable and alluring and ambivalent in intent. The overall effect is intriguing; totally feminine (IMO) and just enough of an enigma to keep you guessing. These comments are based on close consideration of the fragrance. If, however, you happen to get just the slightest whiff of this with a close contact air kiss before lunch you will be seduced in a very civilized way. You will be thinking about your luncheon companion for hours and hours. Women are so wonderful when they know how to wear fragrances! 11th January, 2010. |
| | Havana by AramisThe relaunched Havana is a fine but not truly awesome fragrance one would have expected by the comments made by those who wrote about it while it was discontinued. The Aramis "house note" is there blended in and that is a good thing, yet it is only part of a complex aromatic and herbal concoction that evolves slowly but pleasantly into something resembling a sweet tobacco and foodie mens fragrance. It is very nice but not the classic that original Aramis itself is; and not a really a "must have" fragrance. If you have smelled Santa Maria Novella's tobacco fragrances ( Cuba or Toscano), you would appreciate what a TRUE tobacco scent is. Yet maybe a true tobacco is not what you want, in which case this may well be perfect. Mine is a positive if not wildly enthusiastic thumbs up. 6th January, 2010. (Last Edited: 23rd February, 2010.) |
| | Derby by GuerlainDerby reawakens my interest in fragrances after a long hiatus. What a towering giant of a fragrance! This is warm, spicy, woody and more. And curiously the "more" is really what this is all about. This is a fragrance that is greater than the sum of its parts; and more than that, greater than the ability of most reviewers to capture it, or pigeon-hole it This is a masterpiece and one of the finest winter fragrances I have ever had the privilege of trying and (soon) buying. Lighter than Mazzolari's Lui thanks to the peppermint and pimento, it is not really like any other leather or tobacco fragrance that I have encountered, it is a "thing in itself". What is truly marvelous and magical about Derby is that is not "perfumey" at all. It truly blends into the aura of the man who wears it, and therefore does not give off any affect. It does not feel or smell "put on". It is just there. That is the magic that only a few fragrances can achieve. And make no mistake, it is magical. Just when I thought there was nothing new I could find that would make my heart skip a beat (after four years at this reviewing game) along came this "thing," this very special "thing". The names that come to mind are Gianni Agnelli; David Niven; Edward R. Murrow, Antony Eden and Pierre Trudeau; with more contemporary names being: Sean Connery, Prince William and Jeremy Irons. This is a classy classic and a timeless treasure. Porbably as great as Patou Pour Homme , but with one major difference. It still might be possible to find it; to buy it; and to own it. 24th December, 2009. (Last Edited: 6th December, 2010.) |
| | Véga by GuerlainOne of the few women's fragrances that I wish somehow I could wear or even just own without feeling embarrassed if someone were to find it in my collection. It is lusciously rich and decadent; almost impossibly lovely and not at all modern. The fragrance of allure and sex appeal without being cheap or slutty, this is almost "too too". I have a tough time with "notes" "basenotes" "drydown" and all that jazz when writing about this. Frankly, who cares? Vega is flowers and incense and booze and a waff of romantic air that is almost impossible to describe. Maybe the right words to describe this are style, personality, strength, sex appeal, sophistication and fun. When I smelled this and went crazy for it I said in my next breathe, "who would think of such a thing?" I would love to know a woman who would have the sensibility and the self possession to be able to wear this without some apprehension. You can't be totally conventional and wear Vega. You can be sort of conventional, but not totally. Not for the office; or the country club; or book club or food co-op, ladies, but for other places and other times. A night fragrance that is sweet and wonderful and just a little naughty, but in a smart sophisticated way. Think Louise Brooks or Jean Harlow in a Chinese patterned silk dressing gown and you're on the right track. Can you mix a Martini and dance the rhumba? Holy crow what a fantastic perfume! 24th December, 2009. (Last Edited: 23rd February, 2010.) |
| | Vetiver by FlorisFloris Vetiver is a wonderful combination of natural rustic vetiver with sophisticated smooth notes. An amazingly unique fragrance, this has much of the suave elegance of Creed (1948) with orders of magnitude more staying power. How can something be this suave and yet so raw and (at times) almost as wild as RdeV? Floris Vetiver is a mystery one can wear. This makes me think of Jimmy Cagney, the gangster turned song and dance man. Be enigmatic, try it and wear it and smile that enigmatic smile. 14th October, 2009. |
| | Ivy League by Domenico CaraceniA very green and somewhat synthetic fragrance, Ivy League is a touch disappointing after trying and buying the flagship giant Domenico Caraceni 1913. One might think of freshly mowed grass and some light mixed field florals with this and be somewhat content. The only problem is that it smells like a DuPont illusion of a fresh fragrance. The old motto, "Better living through chemistry" comes to mind. For a similar but altogether more natural and convincing take on the same subject look for Profumum's Victrix, which is twice the price and probably worth it. As it is, this is not an ordinary fragrance. Think clean and green, and you're pretty much there-- but is that really associated with anything Ivy League? 13rd June, 2009. |
| | Vetiver Dance by TauerA pretty nice vetiver fragrance that is on the light side of the scale of rich, earthy vetivers. I like this well enough, but not sure it stands out in the crowded field of vetivers as something extraordinary or "must have". There is no special seduction here, unless you are easily seduced by vetivers. The Villoresi is far more complex and intriguing; the FMalle drier and more sophisticated; and the Floris far more strangely radical yet conventional and wholly enigmatic. The Tauer is nice enough, but not enough for me, sorry to say. Enough said. 13rd June, 2009. |
| | Bal d'Afrique by ByredoThis is a very intriguing fragrance. Smooth, soft, distinctive, neither masculine nor feminine, it is the scent of ambiguity and charm; refinement that doesn't seem to fit into easy categories. This Nose likes to push the envelope with seeming opposites. Lemon and amber; neroli and cedar-- what can we make of these notes? It is not for us to figure out. Why bother to try to figure out what is going on? I find this refreshing in the morning with citrus notes; playful in the afternoon, keeping me uplifted with light florals; and calm in the evening with amber and cedar. Not spicy really; not fruity, it is a very special fragrance that could be worth the pot of gold it takes to acquire. We are moving into slightly unchartered territory here. Bravo! 16th April, 2009. |
 | Rose Noir by ByredoThe continued search for the most intriguing rose fragrance led me as in a trance to the fragrance counter at Barneys for an extended testing of this curious little thing. Rose Noire is makes no suggestion of night or darkness, in my opinion. Citrus and especially grapefruit is about as 'noire-ish' as orange juice. This is neither day nor night, but definitely not night. The notes are riotous, yet subdued - - traffic in the distance. A modern work, like modern music or modern art, more discord that accord, yet toned down to a moderate contemporary sensibility-- a whisper. I am at a loss what to make of this. How can you hate a low-keyed fragrance that won't get you in trouble with the fragrance police or the secretarial staff? Isn't it interesting to wear a fragrance that is elusive and perplexing? Yet, who can walk out of a concert humming a tune by Cage or Ligetti? Do you understand the foreign allusions in the poems comprising "The Four Quartets"? This is not easy to relate to. Yet it is interesting. Citrus and musk together, generally work together like onions and mayo in my book. Ultimately, I find this hard to related to and very expensive to boot. In the final analysis, rose is so not what this fragrance is about, at least from the way the notes played out on my skin. A fascinating totally different citrus fragrance is the best way I could describe this. Try it if you want to know what a citrus with a suggestion of rose is like; buy it if you can relate and are quite well off. I dare you. Avant garde and cooly intellectual so, maybe it is more a conceptual art piece than music. A brave artist's experimental piece, multi media and in a non-existent foreign language. Hmmm. Maybe it's the work of a mad scientist, a genius, who knows. I know life is strange enough, I don't need a strange intriguing fragrance. At least not right now. 16th April, 2009. |
| | Green by ByredoA wonderful fragrance that is true to its name. A beautiful, masculine green spring and summer fragrance that is very special and very desirable. Not much more needs to be said. It smells wonderfully natural and easy to wear. Very expensive, but this is a very companionable product. 16th April, 2009. |
| | Tuscan Leather by Tom FordI love the leather in this. It is fairly up front and dominant in a way that is difficult to describe except to say that if Tom Ford hadn't done this perhaps Santa Maria Novella might have. It is wonderfully unusual and can be modern, classic, generically masculine and unisex at the same time. I love dominant leather fragrances, and this is right up there. Compare and contrast with Spanish Leather by Santa Maria Novella first. I can't tell the Spanish from the Italian, but both are muy bien, multo bene. 22nd January, 2009. |
| | Green Irish Tweed by CreedGreen Irish Tweed is a wonderful scent for a man who is not particularly focused on fragrances. It is strong (at first), cool, and has a bit of carefree, charming nonchalance. It is iconic? Well, it's connection with Cary Grant might put it into that category, but then one never knows does one? What matters is that this is a green fragrance, for those who love green fragrances. A man who favors the manliness of vetiver, but wants a little more, should try this. Iconic? What a bore, who cares? It's only a fragrance, after all. Chill out with GIT. 19th January, 2009. (Last Edited: 17th April, 2011.) |
Review Stats
-- 
Top Reviewed Men's Fragrances Top Reviewed Women's Fragrances Top Reviewed Shared Fragrances
View Reviews by Date
|
Latest Threads Partners 
 |
Useful Links Read, View, Friend, Follow |
Get in touch |
United States
Report Review
foetidus
2047 reviews