Reviews by mrclmind

    mrclmind's avatar
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    Showing 61 to 90 of 195.

    Silver Mountain Water by Creed

    What with all their oft-questioned myth-making claims to their history, there is no doubt that Creed makes good perfumes, with high quality materials. I'm not a huge fan of tea/fig/fresh type scents, but this one is quite remarkable. SMW opens with a ping on a fortissimo current/bergamot interval that sings with gusto. The citrus and tea rise up to join the chorus and then the top notes begin their diminuendo, revealing an exceptional violet which reveals the faintest hint of powder, but never letting go of the freshness of SMW's theme. The floral notes reveal a clean yet soft and sweet musk that begins the dry down phase which seems a vague variation on the theme of the Creed house accord. Although the longevity seems modest, the fragrance has a habit of reappearing from time to time which makes me wonder what is a longevity issue, and what is simple scent fatigue. Either way, this is a real winner. I'm not a Creed convert yet, not am I a lover of these summer fresh scents, but SMW is something I think is worth owning.

    24th February, 2010 (Last Edited: 02nd March, 2010)


    Rose Pivoine by Nicolaï

    One of the freshest rose scents I've tried. It smells like walking in a rose garden. So many men on these boards ask what rose scents are unisex; this is one of them. It's a fresh, spring/summer fragrance that is rose centered. It opens with an innocent burst of bergamot and mandarine; the heart is a clear, clean rose/peony blend which sits on top of an ambergris/oakmoss base that is very gentle and doesn't detract from the general fresh rose accord apparent throughout the development of the entire scent. Excellent.

    24th February, 2010


    Cuir Beluga by Guerlain

    Cuir Beluga is a definite leather scent. Perhaps most people have been used to leather being a bit more harsh, and that's why they claim they can't smell the leather in CB. I can see how someone might consider CB to be suede, but it is definitely leather nonetheless. It is a very soft, sumptuous leather that has great tenacity (a good 15 hours on me). The leather note in Cuir Beluga is every bit as elegant and satisfying as some of the finest in modern perfumery, and that includes Chanel's Cuir de Russie. I find it more unisex than the Chanel in any case. I think it is at least a contender for my favorite from L'Art et la Matiere. I disagree that the scents from this line are so similar that you only need to own one.

    23rd February, 2010


    Salvador by Salvador Dali

    Salvador is a nicely composed woody Chypre in the Rocabar vein (although it's not trying to be a copy of Rocabar by any means). Unlike other reviewers, I found it to have quite adequate sillage and tenacity. It is a cedar-centered fragrance that never veers into the pencil shavings territory, nor does it move completely over to the sweetened-woods side of Carven pour Homme. It is a well-balanced, somewhat dated, but charming and quite wearable scent. I can think of many other scents that should have been discontinued besides Salvador.

    22nd February, 2010


    Patchouli Intense / Patchouli Homme by Nicolaï

    It is no secret that I am a full-blown fan of Patricia de Nicolaï. Her masculine scents are some of the finest available anywhere in the world. Her price point is so reasonable and her packaging so dowdy that she often doesn't get the respect she deserves. Nicolaï is a perfumer's perfumer. With Patchouli Homme, Nicolaï paints a portrait of patchouli in a way that is as surprising as it is effective. Some of the finest patchouli essential is obviously used and it is unmistakably present while remaining inexplicably transparent. The fragrance opens with a very typical Nicolaï orange/cinnamon/lavender accord. The patchouli is set firmly in the heart of the fragrance seamlessly blended with rose, geranium, and bay. The woodiness of the patchouli is highlighted by sandalwood on top of a lavish incense accord of frankincense, vanilla, amber and tonka. There is a distinct base of refined leather which warmly permeates Patchouli Homme.

    In her trademark mastery of perfumistic chiaroscuro, Nicolaï creates a scent that is simultaneously inviting and haunting, intensely masculine, and melancholic. This is a scent for both lovers of patchouli and those who shy away from it. I find it humorous that in the published pyramids of this perfume that patchouli isn't listed. Is there patchouli? You bet! But there is no head shop within miles of Patchouli Homme. This is pure, powerful, elegance.

    15th February, 2010 (Last Edited: 19th December, 2010)


    Jasmin by Molinard

    Another single note winner from Molinard. This is a basic jasmine, no real development. It layers beautifully. If you like to create your own scents by layering high-quality fragrance specialties and bases, these are the scents to use. This one is especially nice layered with any of the following Molinard scents: Fleur de Figuier, Muguet, Patchouli, Vanilla, Amber and/or Heliotrope.

    11th February, 2010


    Après L'ondée by Guerlain

    This is a very light, beautiful and transparent fragrance. It opens with a gentle anise among bright citrus and soft florals which opens up to heart notes of heliotrope and violet melding seamlessly into a base of orris, gentle tonka, and light musk. This is not a skin scent per se, but the projection is minimal. The longevity is typical of an EDT (moderate). Apres l'Ondee is one of the most beautiful and redolent perfumes in history: the sweet, soft fragrance of a garden in the morning after a night's rainfall.

    09th February, 2010


    Fleur de Figuier by Molinard

    A bit more floral opening than I was expecting, but the middle note is a wonderfully realistic fig scent. Slightly sweet, slightly green. Very wearable; A most affordable high-quality fig scent.

    08th February, 2010


    Orange-Cannelle by Molinard

    One of the smoothest orange scents I've encountered. The cinnamon is very subdued and warm. I found it to be quite long-lasting, something I was not prepared for. These single-note scents from Molinard are so affordable and high-quality. They are like some very good industry perfume bases (AKA "specialties") that have been prepared into EDT strength products. They work so well for layering and creating personal fragrances. I prefer them by far to the Jo Malone collection which are made to be used in a similar fashion.

    08th February, 2010


    Habit Rouge Sport by Guerlain

    I don't know what about this fragrance is "Sport." It seems actually a bit more floral (jasmine and rose). The jasmine gives the composition a bit of a sour note that I found quite off-putting upon my first several wearings. There is also a metalic element that I found quite foul. I really hated this one at first.

    However, the more time I spent with HRS, the more I warmed to it. It didn't hurt either that this is one of the few fragrances I wear that actually garners many compliments. It is a floral, somewhat harsh, slightly woody interpretation of Habit Rouge with a nice peppery note. It really is the floral elements of HRS which I find quite attractive.

    EDIT: I have turned around on this one. My rating has gone from neutral to thumbs up. Each time I wear HRS I like it more. It's actually quite good.

    05th February, 2010 (Last Edited: 21st November, 2011)


    Bois Precieux by Molinard

    Bois Precieux is a delightful woody, slightly sweet and amberic scent that highlights a sensual sandalwood note. This is an amazing scent considering the price. All of the Molinard fragrances from both the Les Senteurs and Les Fleurs de Provence lines make excellent layering scents, as well as the most exceptional room sprays available.

    04th February, 2010 (Last Edited: 05th February, 2010)


    Musc by Molinard

    Molinard Musc is a very warm, slightly sweet, very lightly animalic musk that could be easily be sold as a niche scent for 8 times the price. All of the Les Senteurs line is quite remarkable. If you are looking for single note fragrances, it doesn't get any better than Molinard.

    04th February, 2010 (Last Edited: 05th February, 2010)


    Black Orchid by Tom Ford

    I like quite a few of Tom Ford's scents, although I would not call myself a full-fledged fan. I can see why BO has admirers; this is definitely a scent I can see many people considering luxurious, dark, mysterious, and sensual. On paper it sounds like something I would love! But it really smells obnoxious to me. The very prime top notes hold some promise with some nice ylang and jasmine with a bit of currant, but immediately the whole thing starts to develop and completely loses its balance with a sickening combination of aroma chemicals that try as they might leave absolutely no impression of any orchid I have ever smelled, instead they take all the worst headache producing aspects of a floral oriental and turn the volume up to full blast. When the dry down eventually (and thankfully) comes it is an anti-climax of monumental proportions weaving in the blandest interpretation of woods, ambers and gourmand notes I have ever smelled. It is a big seller for this house, and I guess my tastes are absolutely not with the masses on this one. This is one expensive, over the top mess.

    01st February, 2010


    Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta by Acqua di Parma

    The opening is a very lovely slightly spicy citrus, somewhat reminiscent of the exceptional original Colonia. On my skin, the citrus dies very rapidly and the fragrance moves very quickly into a clean "white musk" type accord. This is my least favorite style of musk. I'm sure it is pleasing to people who enjoy this type of scent but unfortunately to me it is the olfactory equivalent of a migraine. I'm rating it neutral due to the fact that it is obviously a well constructed scent but not my style at all. I will stick to the original Colonia by Aqua di Parma.

    01st February, 2010


    New West for Him by Aramis

    The ethylbenzodioxepinone in the top note is very subdued as far as I'm concerned; this is not an aquatic scent at all. I mostly get citrus and a bit of mint on the top; lavender, herbs and pepper in the center; and patchouli, woods, moss and musk in the dry-down. New West has the slight hint of leather in the base that is sort of the Aramis "house accord." It's like no other scent out there really, I like it quite a bit.

    01st February, 2010


    Must de Cartier Pour Homme by Cartier

    I actually own L'Essence de Must de Cartier; please look under that heading. I have moved my review where it belongs.

    01st February, 2010 (Last Edited: 27th February, 2010)


    Vanille by Molinard

    It starts off as pure cotton candy, and mellows out to a long lasting straight up sweet vanilla that is delightful. It is an awesome vanilla for layering.

    01st February, 2010


    Diorella by Christian Dior

    I disagree that Diorella is too feminine for a man. It is one of the better woman's scents that men can wear easily (at least this man). If you were able to take all the best aspects of Eau Sauvage, Y, and Givenchy III and balance them into a wearable chypre you would get Diorella. This is a classic.

    01st February, 2010


    Versace l'Homme by Versace

    The fresh and spicy combination of lemon, bergamot, petitgrain, basil and herbs in the top note sizzle and give way to a still spicy but woody floral center note of carnation, cinnamon, cedar, patchouli and assorted floral components. Eventually the dry down gives up the spice and reveals a powdery sweetness of moss, amber, leather, labdanum and incense. This is one of the few Vercace men's fragrances I really like. The secret to wearing this one well lies in the application: less is more. L'homme is a very satisfying dark leathery chypre indeed.

    29th January, 2010


    1 Million by Paco Rabanne

    I actually like this one. I was surprised. It's not a masterpiece, but it is a very well formulated albeit slightly synthetic fragrance that, while probably very appealing to the masses, has some uniqueness that isn't apparent in so many popular mass-market fragrances these days. 1 Million holds a nice balance between freshness, floral, spicy, woody and ambery, a balance that is extremely hard to achieve. While it isn't something I will find myself reaching for too often it is a well done formula that doesn't deserve the bad press it receives here on the boards. It's not really my style of scent, but it shows a nice change of pace for a designer fragrance.

    28th January, 2010


    Eau d'Hermès by Hermès

    Eau d'Hermes is a very unique scent. It opens with a very fresh and fleeting blast of petitgrain and bergamot. Immediately the scent evolves into a non-citrus aromatic lavender/herbaceous scent and almost as quickly morphs into a warm spice melange. This spicy stage lasts on me a good long time. The predominance is cinnamon, but there is definitely some cardamom, clove, coriander, and mace that I detect; plus the famous cumin note which is very well balanced and not at all off-putting. The spices are absolutely top notch and the blending is seamless. The evolution slows at this point as some vague floral elements start to peek through, mainly geranium, but also some indoles (perhaps jasmine). As the base notes rise to join the spicy, warm, floral heart we are treated to a slightly sweet vanillic/labdanum laced amber with a definite coumarin tone. The base continues to develop as the mosses and woods start to reveal themselves and blend seamlessly with the warm spices which are still very much present, as the floral notes fade into the background. The deepest part of the base is somewhat leathery and animalic which begins to warm through the composition at the beginning of the dry-down, with the spices never completely dying out until the very end.

    Eau d'Hermes is a unique experience which deftly balances several perfumistic styles and layers, namely Eau de Cologne, Fougere and Chypre. Roudnitska has many fine compositions to his name, but this is one of his finest masterpieces.

    27th January, 2010


    Arpège by Lanvin

    As a floral chypre for women, this is a very classic scent that has unfortunately gone out of fashion. It's a delightful scent. However, I'm not sure why Luca Turin thinks this will make a good masculine. On my skin it is more obviously feminine than Chanel No. 5. It has a very aldehydic top, an extremely feminine floral heart, and a unisex woody dry down. If I were wanting to wear this out, I'd have to apply it and wait a good 2 hours before the dry down started until I felt comfortable wearing it in public. By then the projection is very muted and it is a wonderfully unisex skin scent for several more hours. I'm giving Arpege a thumbs up as a classic aldehydic feminine floral, but I'm not convinced at all of it's usability as a masculine; not only does Turin like it as a masculine, but it's one of his top 10 feminines for men. ????

    27th January, 2010


    Jules by Christian Dior

    Jules starts out with a BANG. It's a very green and pungent galbanum opening. As the middle notes start to appear, the combination of pepper and cedar start to smell like pencil lead. Just when it all starts to get to be a bit annoying, the sandalwood kicks in and warms up the whole thing. The extended dry down is very woody and leathery -- and quite comfortable. I really like Jules. It hit me by surprise, but it was a very pleasant surprise. I only have a decant of this; if I were to find a bottle, I'm certain I would purchase it on the spot. There is nothing dated about this scent. it's quite wearable, but easy on the trigger. Also, if the opening seems a bit much, just give it 15 minutes or so, then once the pencil smell dies down you are in for a very delightful several hours of luxury.

    26th January, 2010


    Monsieur Rochas by Rochas

    I can only comment on the vintage concentree version:

    It is a very well composed, rather dry fougere. It imparts gentle sophistication. It is not particularly loud, rather it is present, yet wears slightly below the radar. There is a definite citrus/aromatic opening which leads seamlessly to a spicy clove-tinged, slightly woody, masculine floral (carnation) heart. The oak-moss leather-like dry down is sublime. The projection is light to moderate and the longevity is moderate. This is a real winner for sophistication and understated elegance. It seems quite timeless to me. I have not tried the new pink version, so I cannot comment on how the scent has been translated as a reformulation.

    Top: Lemon, Bergamot, Clary Sage, Lavender, Larel, Camomile
    Middle: Geranium, Carnation, Cedar, Cardamom, Galbanum, Vetiver
    Base: Oakmoss, Tonka, Musk, Patchouli, Hay

    25th January, 2010 (Last Edited: 29th January, 2010)


    Eau de Guerlain by Guerlain

    Eau de Guerlain is one of my very favorite Eau de Colognes. It is much longer lasting than most others that I have tried. Eau de Guerlain eschews the neroli in the top-notes in favor of a mouth watering lemon; there are lovely subtle aromatics blended behind the lemon, but you never lose that beautiful lemon note. The slightly woody floral heart of Eau de Guerlain is what pulls it away from the typical eau de cologne. It is the jasmine in the heart that is the star, but the peppery carnation and patchouli lend a depth that is quite pleasing. The dry down is also deeper than your typical EDC: a subtly rich sandalwood, moss, amber and musk. This is definitely one of my votes for the ultimate citrus fragrances.

    Top Notes: Lemon, Bergamot, Basil, Caraway, Petitgrain, Fruit Note
    Middle Notes: Jasmin, Patchouli, Rose, Carnation, Sandal
    Base Notes: Moss, Musk, Amber

    20th January, 2010 (Last Edited: 28th January, 2011)


    Philtre d'Amour by Guerlain

    Philtre d'Amour is a fragrance that I have tried off and on for a while. I have only smelled the EDP. Had I not been told that it was being discontinued, I may not have bothered purchasing a bottle. It had always struck me as a bit on the feminine side of the "unisex" category. Having purchased a bottle and therefore having had the chance to give this perfume several full wearings I must admit that it has captivated me. I would classify Philtre d'Amour as a Citrus/Floral. I have heard some people describe this fragrance as a chyphre, but I do not get any sense of the chyphre accord whatsoever. It is truly a brilliantly executed citrus/floral fragrance that is rather unique. I do understand the comparisons to Eau du Soir, however Philtre d'Amour has none of the ambery qualities in the dry-down of Eau du Soir. They are definitely related, but different.

    The top note of Philtre d'Amour is a very generous and opulent lemon/lemon-verbena. The floral mid-notes peak out through the top giving the impression of lemon blossoms. The jasmine, neroli, petitgrain make for a delightful green floral middle with a few aldehydic notes which give this perfume much roundness, presence, and moderate projection. The bottom part of the middle note brings us a lovely myrtle tone which bridges the fragrance into a very transparent patchouli/white musk base which never seems to completely let go of the citrus or the florals. The citrus lasts a very long time, which is quite a virtuosic feat. I suppose I understand why this is classified as a citrus fragrance, but it contains such a lovely floral component, so don't expect a typical eau de cologne type experience.

    20th January, 2010


    Spiritueuse Double Vanille by Guerlain

    I had sniffed this fragrance several times at two different Guerlain boutiques and couldn't see paying such a high price for it. Finally when I was at the boutique in the Bellagio in Las Vegas I gave it an actual wear and found it quite wonderful. I bought it as soon as I returned home.

    Spiritueuse Double Vanille is very true to its name. It goes on very boozy. The full warmth of the fragrance doesn't kick in on me for a good two hours when I am literally draped in a warm, cozy aura of vanilla bean and resins. While SDV is not exactly linear, it's progression is truly variations on a theme of vanilla, booze, spices and resins. There is some wood in the dry down as well which keeps the pure vanilla from smelling too sweet. Its a very comforting, grown up vanilla scent that smells remarkably masculine on my skin. I can see myself reaching for it on many occasions. SDV is quite worth the price in my opinion.

    06th January, 2010


    Ambre by Molinard

    This is a very satisfying, rich and uncomplicated amber. It is a nice, fairly linear, consistent resinous amber which not too syrupy, not too sweet and yet not too dry. There is a bit of an artificial almond smell when first applied that made me raise an eyebrow, but it burns off almost immediately on my skin and settles into a fairly linear and comforting amber. The dry down has VERY much in common with Tom Ford Amber Absolute, but for 1/8 the price.

    22nd December, 2009 (Last Edited: 15th February, 2010)


    Cruel Intentions by By Kilian

    I am quite happy with this accord. On the blotter it smelled much more like a cedar/sandalwood accord than on my skin. With a full skin wearing, I find that, on me, Cruel Intentions waxes VERY similar to M7 (which is not a criticism any means).

    The top notes, rather than acting as a "first act" instead give a sparkle to the oud backbone of the composition, a backbone which which is firmly but harmoniously present throughout the life of the fragrance. The floral heart is kept very much in the background adding a roundness and subtle complexity to the composition with a very subtle hint of green which peeks out here and there when I least expect it. The floral notes, like the base notes serve to prop up the oud without the acrid medicinal scent which is usually in the fore in most oud scents. The storax/castoreum base remains reserved at all times, and is very artfully used as a sensual anchor to the oud. I surprisingly never find the oud fatiguing in this lovely fragrance.

    The sillage is moderate and the longevity is above average. I don't find anything cruel about this fragrance; it's actually quite cozy to my nose.

    21st December, 2009


    L'Heure Bleue by Guerlain

    Top: Bergamot, lemon, neroli, tarragon, coriander, clary sage
    Middle: Clove bud, jasmine, rose de-mai, ylang, orchid
    Base: Sandal, musk, vetiver, cedar, vanilla, benzoin

    L'Heure Bleue is a classic Guerlain floral that I have come to love immensely. When I first tried it, the calyx type notes that came up were a bit off-putting, but then the gorgeous base started to shine through and I fell in love. Since then I have come to love all aspects of this scent. The floral elements are not typical, in that they smell more like crushed petals to my nose than aroma-chemical reproductions of a floral concept. The top note is fresh and spicy. The freshness is fleeting and the spicy element helps to weave the scent's development into the afore mentioned floral mid notes. There is also a spicy clove note in the midst of the floral composition that is so well formulated that it gives mystery and intrigue to the experience. The base notes develop rather slowly (I wear the EDP concentration) and begin as a sensual musk; then the delicate woods appear, until finally the delightful powder of benzoin which prolongs the dry down takes over. I love it and I wear it, and I smell great when I do. I take no heed of so-called gender labels when it comes to a scent like this.

    03rd November, 2008

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