Reviews by mrclmind

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    mrclmind
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    Showing 151 to 180 of 195.
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    M7 by Yves Saint Laurent

    I can certainly understand the objections to the smell of Agarwood from many people in M7. Yet in my experience, once applied the medicinal smell is transformed immediately into a gorgeously sexy woody accord. I'm not sure about actual mandrake root in this fragrance, but it certainly has a magical effect on me when I wear it. A winner on my skin!

    Woody, aromatic, sensual, slightly animalic.

    19 August, 2008

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    New York by Nicolaï

    Patricia de Nicolai is one of my favorite perfume artists. It is largely because of New York that I hold her in such high esteem. To me New York is Nicolai's homage to her Guerlain heritage. It is very Guerlainesque. Although they are very different fragrances to New York, I smell a tip of the hat to both Mouchoir de Monsieur and Habit Rouge. When she first launched New York Nicolai described it simply as a masculine oriental. And what an oriental it is! With its lavender/citrus opening New York begins its harmonious but complex spicy/resinous/woody symphony. It lasts a good long time, and it smells sublime! One of my top ten favorite masculine scents, New York is Nicolai's Tour de Force.

    19 August, 2008

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    Musc Ravageur by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

    I detest the opening. For some reason this particular lavender/citrus accord on the top with tons of clove poking through doesn't work at all well on my skin. When I first tried it I thought, "Oh God, this is gross!" I was growing very tired of giving it time do develop and was on my way to the sink to wash it off when all of a sudden the musk/vanilla/sandal accord (which is the true star of this show) materialized at once. My heart melted! Mmmm! As if I was channeling Edina Monsoon, I yelled "This is the one, sweetie!" I am making it through the very generous sample sent to me by the good people at Frederic Malle, and I'll be ordering myself a nice big bottle of this juice! I may even learn to love that strange opening.

    19 August, 2008

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    Vetiver by Guerlain

    About 35 years ago (when I was a VERY young boy mind you), I was given a little miniature bottle of Guerlain Vetiver along with a couple minis of some other scents which I can't remember. I loved Vetiver and wore it often. I'm pretty sure I was the only kid my age wearing cologne at that time, but I drained that bottle. I had pretty much forgotten about this one until fairly recently. I have heard that our memories of smells are fairly accurate, and to my nose this one smells identical to the one I had all those years ago. I read of how horrible the current incarnation of Vetiver is since all the reformulations, but I still love it as much as I did when I was a kid. It's a classic spicy, woody, citrus, tobacco scent that works for me in all times and in all situations. I hope I'm never without it!

    January, 2010 Update: Having procured a vintage bottle of Vetiver (brown juice) I must say that I do agree that the reformulation is not as rich as the former formulations. This particular vintage (1998) has a much more prominent nutmeg component, a reduced tobacco note and a much more pronounced pure vetiver note. I think that the current formulation is very good, but perhaps due to restrictions, it is not quite as satisfying as earlier incarnations of the scent. Either way, this is an excellent fragrance.

    19 August, 2008 (Last Edited: 27 January, 2010)

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    Trafalgar by Truefitt & Hill

    Trafalgar is a spicy little jasmine number with below average longevity and sillage. The pyramid denies any trace of a fruit note, but it is easily perceived as having a couple of mellon balls floating inside. It's a polite scent which I can't imagine causing offense in any manner. I like it well enough, but I tend to grow tired of it after a while (so it's a good thing it doesn't last all that long). I liked it in the store, so I bought it; but I doubt I'll make it through my whole bottle. If I do, I really doubt I'd buy a new one.

    19 August, 2008

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    Patou pour Homme Privé by Jean Patou

    Patou pour Homme Privé has one of the best lavender accords I've smelled balanced with a base which creates a dance somewhere between a fougère and an oriental. The lavendar seems to last far into the life of the fragrance. This scent is fresher and more pleasing to my nose in its upper accords than Patou pour Homme, but equally as satisfying in the extended dry down of woods and resins. As is so common, something this good is not commercially available and is getting increasingly more difficult to find.

    19 August, 2008

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    Patou pour Homme (original) by Jean Patou

    Patou pour Homme is one of the finest men's scents I am fortunate enough to own. It starts out very herbaceous and loud. I'm not partial to the opening personally. It seems to die out almost completely when it reaches the carnation phase and then out of nowhere the woods (excellent sandalwood among them), mosses and labdanum rise up like a phoenix from the ashes. This final phase lasts for hours and hours on me. FYI, if you like this one, you may want to find a bottle of Maxim's PH and see if it doesn't suit your liking as well.

    19 August, 2008

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    Oscar de la Renta pour Lui by Oscar de la Renta

    Oscar de la Renta pour Lui is an excellent masculine chyphre. This is one powerful blast of flowers, woods and spices. I detect a nice dose of leather in the dry down on my skin that lasts for hours. Perfect for those moods when you want to be noticed!

    19 August, 2008

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    Opium pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent

    Everyone has already said it all. Sweet, spicy, woody, balsamic oriental goodness. If you don't like sweet, you may not like Opium PH. I love it.

    19 August, 2008

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    Mouchoir de Monsieur by Guerlain

    Mouchoir de Monsieur is another historic Guerlain masterpiece that I'm glad I own. It's obvious (to me) that it is Jicky's brother. I enjoy MdM when I don't want the in your face civet of Jicky (although Jicky carries it masterfully). This is a classic gentleman's scent which you won't smell many men wearing. It is a sophisticated lavender topped fougère that cannot fall out of fashion. I treasure my bottle because one never knows about these classics being available in the future.

    19 August, 2008

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    Maxims pour Homme by Maxims

    Maxim's PH reminds me a lot of the experience I get when I wear Patou PH. Not as spicy, but many similarities. It is absolutely lovely. I don't really smell the 80's in this one at all. It smells extremely classic, elegant and French. From the lavender/citrus opening through the masculine florals into the delicious woods and resins in its base, this is a real winner. Maxim's is one of my very favorite masculine scents.

    19 August, 2008

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    Number 3 / Le 3me Homme / The Third Man by Caron

    Caron is such a wonderful house. They have given me some of my favorite scents. I don't know if I agree with Luca Turin's comment about Troisième being too just too pretty, but I do like it a lot. It's a type of fougère but the lavender is treated very lightly. There is a soft herbaceous accord on the top which transforms itself into a floral sweetness which then moves into an unexpected woody base which leaves its undeniable mark and then dries down yet again into a soft ambery vanilla. How many colognes is this? Maybe they should have called it the Fourth Man. Life's too short to wear anything but the best, so I'm glad I have Number 3 in my wardrobe!

    19 August, 2008

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    Mitsouko by Guerlain

    Mitsouko is one of a handful perfumes marketed to women that I wear comfortably. I find the EDT works well as a masculine on my skin. It is a mystical experience to wear a chyphre that is so beautifully constructed yet stripped down to its basic structure. Along with that famous peach note, it is a striking chord: Bergamot and Oakmoss. What a concept, and executed magnificently by Jaques Guerlain. The reformulations don't bother me one bit. It's still Mitsouko, and it smells divine. I'm just glad that my skin wears it well, and I don't end up smelling like my Grandmother!

    19 August, 2008

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    Derby by Guerlain

    This is the finest masculine leather I own. I wonder if it will ever be reintroduced here in the States. It is so well constructed that the development is seamless. It is so seamless in fact that it easy to perceive it as a linear scent. This is for me the perfect leather chyphre. Elegant, sophisticated and extremely wearable.

    Edit: The above review was based on the original formulation. The new formula is every bit as wonderful as the original, but is a bit of a more modern and floral interpretation. It is so good in fact that it's worth me purchasing the reformulated version so that I have them both in my collection. They are different from each other enough to warrant being thought of as separate scents, or at least the new as a flanker of the original.

    18 August, 2008 (Last Edited: 18 November, 2010)

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    Héritage by Guerlain

    The EDT is a woody oriental with slight fougere leanings: Citrus/Lavender top; spice center and woody, slightly sweet, balsamic and animalic dry-down.

    The EDP Has the same basic structure as the EDT with a much stronger animalic element in the drydown. The prominent civet note is actually quite present from the beginning which gives Heritage EDP a bit in common with both Jicky and Mouchoir de Monsieur.

    They both are very elegant and well balanced fragrances. I can understand why some people think Heritage is "older." It's definitely a mature scent, in that it draws from Guerlain's long heritage of perfumery. Heritage is a modern classic.

    18 August, 2008 (Last Edited: 18 November, 2010)

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    Dirty English by Juicy Couture

    I like this one. There are definitely a lot of dirtier fragrances out there. This one is actually pretty tame and polite to my nose. It's citrus and woods with a bit of patchouli mixed in. I don't smell the agar at all... This one is a good play it safe scent.

    18 August, 2008

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    Dior Homme by Christian Dior

    I loved this one at first sniff, and still love it today. I think that Iris has been much too feminized over the years and its nice to smell some decent masculine interpretations of the scent. That being said, I could easily imagine a woman wearing Dior Homme. It is really the best offering of 2005.

    18 August, 2008

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    Cologne Nature by Nicolaï

    If you like fresh lime, this is your baby. I love it, but I don't seem to reach for it very often. You will never offend wearing Cologne Nature. But even for an EDC, it is extremely short lived. Even sprayed on fabric you get 30 minutes tops. I'd give it a thumbs up but this longevity is poor even for a citrus.

    18 August, 2008

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    Arpège pour Homme by Lanvin

    Arpège pour Homme opens with a sparkle of spice and citrus. It has a lovely floral center that fades pretty seamlessly into a base that smells of vanilla, tonka and sandalwood to my nose. I picked it up at the Marshall's bargain bin for about $8.00. One of my favorite recent purchases too! Seems a bit too sweet for warm weather, although my partner wore it to a summer picnic today and seemed to do quite well with it by spraying it sparingly. Lovely scent from Lanvin!

    18 August, 2008

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    Hermèssence Vétiver Tonka by Hermès

    It's obvious that each component of the Hermèssence line is meant to be a minimalist interpretation of the name of the perfume in question. Bearing that in mind, and not expecting more than that, this is a very good quality vetiver/tonka perfume. I wear it occasionally, but there are so many vetiver interpretations that better suit me that I rarely reach for it. Ellena is quite brilliant and never ceases to produce quality products. His sensibilities are different than mine, but I can still appreciate his work for what it is.

    18 August, 2008

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    Hermèssence Rose Ikebana by Hermès

    Linear fruity rose. It's nice and not too feminine, but lasts but a moment and then disappears. I wouldn't miss it if I ran out.

    18 August, 2008

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    Hermèssence Poivre Samarcande by Hermès

    Of all the Hermèssence line this is my favorite. I smell a stark pepper/cedar accord, and it stays pretty linear through the dry down. For my pepper fix I prefer something a bit more composed and less minimalist such as Red Vetiver, Terre d'Hermes or Timbuktu. But it is a finely crafted scent. Ellana certainly shows his artistry here.

    18 August, 2008

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    Concentré D'Orange Verte by Hermès

    Ooo La La! I love this scent! I have always been a lover of the original Eau D'Orange Verte; Where the original is a sublime EDC, the concentrée is a brilliant reinterpretation of the original using the chypre concept. Unlike many concentrée versions which are actually completely new scents altogether this one really stays honed in on its predecessor. The opening smells more of basil to my nose but the whole effect is much darker than the original. The sillage is a knockout! It lasts for a longer time than the original and dries down a bit leathery. Yum.

    18 August, 2008

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    Ginger by Gorilla Perfume

    This is actually not a bad fragrance. It smells a bit hippy, and it's a lot of fun. I wouldn't call it a serious fragrance, nor do I think it is meant to be. The Ginger scented creme is much better smelling than the EDT in my opinion.

    18 August, 2008

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    L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme by Guerlain

    I can't really detect the notes as separate components in this one. It's a gorgeous melange of wood, leather, resin, cocoa and vanilla all rolled into a gorgeous symphony, with a classic guerlinade dry-down. I love it and wear it often. Guerlain is one of my all-time favorite houses and they certainly didn't disappoint with L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme.

    18 August, 2008

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    Cologne Sologne by Nicolaï

    Cologne Sologne was the first PDN scent I ever purchased years ago when Sephora carried her line in the South Coast Plaza store here in So. Cal. I was transfixed by this perfectly orchestrated EDC and fell in love with it from the first sniff! It starts off smelling, like so many others have stated, like 4711. Then when you think "it's very lovely, but we've been there and done that, Patty," this amazing rose blooms through and softens into Nicolai's signature tonka base. It's really quite magnificent. Of course, although it is an exceptional perfume, it still is an EDC; therefore, frequent reapplication is necessary since longevity is fairly short as should be expected in a product of this nature. It is a sublime experience.

    18 August, 2008

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    Pour Un Homme by Caron

    That's some gorgeous lavender! I own Caron Pour Un Homme for just the top note alone! But lest anyone ever get the impression that (as is stated in the H&R Directory) that this is a simple lavender fragrance, there is a short journey through a rose and wood heart which leads right down into a mossy vanilla base that lasts on my skin for hours. It's not listed in the pyramid, but there is a distinct civet note as well which gives the clean lavender note just the right dose of grit to make this one a real winner! Damn convention. I wear this anywhere and at anytime. It is just that gorgeous,

    18 August, 2008 (Last Edited: 25 February, 2010)

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    Castile by Penhaligon's

    I wear several scents which are classified as feminine, namely Y, Bandit, Cuir de Russie (Chanel), and "Tabac Blonde;" yet for a so-called masculine scent, Castille smells too much of a feminine floral on my skin for me to enjoy it. It also smells to my nose somewhat synthetic and tends to give me a headache. Sorry, but this one may be well made and all, but I just can't bring myself to like it as much as I have tried.

    18 August, 2008

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    Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent

    Kouros is anything but boring. It is definitely a classic and one which I have always found quite challenging. This is a scent for me to appreciate but not one which I find immediately appealing. It is obviously a work of great merit. Upon first application I feel a definite gag reflex. It reminds me instantly of public restrooms being cleaned at an airport. One might wonder why anyone would want to smell like this. The magic of this fragrance for me is that when my nose is at my wrist Kouros is disgusting. Yet the sillage itself is actually quite balanced. There is an alchemy which happens in that the aura of the scent is actually quite magnificent and none of the gut wrenching gag notes which I smell up close are present.

    Much like a Vagnerian opera can be difficult for a first time listener to enjoy, so does Kouros offer a challenge to many at first smell. It just doesn't smell pretty; yet there is a difference between pretty and beautiful. Kouros is a mighty scent. It is, along with the man who wears it, a definite force to be reckoned with.

    18 August, 2008

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    Knize Ten by Knize

    This is a fantastic scent. I love Knize Ten. It's a classic leather scent that has stood the test of time. It starts with a citrus blast but the leather is there from the start too; the heart and base notes add a sweetness and tobacco element to the leather and it dries down with a bit of powder. It seems to be a like it or hate it scent. I can only walk through a mist of this one, or it gets overpowering. It lasts well, and makes me feel very good!

    18 August, 2008

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