Reviews by Pollux

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    Pollux
    Argentina Argentina

    Showing 31 to 60 of 98.
    rating


    Squash by Dana

    I have been given a huge bottle of this one by a very generous fellow Base Noter; since it is a splash bottle I decided to decant it into an atomizer.

    S is a blend that cannot be classified as a powerbomb, thus it has been blended with those launched in the 1970's in mind. There is bergamot, but not in fashion with what was later set by CK's Eternity, thus the lavander and the petitgrain can be the reason why the opening, although harsh as in the aromatics, feels original when worn nowadays. What follows is not very complex in character, but the geranium, the carnation and the vetiver lead the way - these feel pungent to the nose. Talcum-powder basenotes follow, finally setting in the very light animalic notes. In summary, not the way "bold" would mean as in classic scents launched during the 1980's, but it certainly can be described as such, albeit with a twist that could be described as original maybe due to the fact it was blended under the fashion of its time: after all, this is the kind of scent that wearing it makes me travel to the past.

    I can't assure anyone that blends in the 1970's shared much of S attributes, but I experience a sort of feeling that tells me this might not be far from the truth.

    23 May, 2011

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    Aromatics Elixir by Clinique

    It did shock me the first time I gave it a full wear because of the obvious presence of aldehyded-geranium notes morphing into rose accords, so later I decided to layer it with patchouli eo. (BTW, this drew compliments).

    I kept on trying this at home, AE is one of those scents that in my case call for sensory analysis. I find it very complex and not an easy one to get, at all, besides the fact that several questions come to mind when testing this, for example, the notes I perceive during the time the fragrance evolves and the associations and descriptors I can think of.

    Today, when sniffing it on my arm, I realized that what was getting me was this herbal animalic accord, which could be due to musk, the note which might explain its masculine character: as mentioned so many times, AE is a women's fragrance that can be worn by men. Thus, the floral accords would be suddenly forced to a turn in direction by musk, before proceeding to a gentler dry-down.

    I strongly belief this last effect is the reason why AE is so difficult to appreciate, for it makes the blend smell somehow discordant - it is not the usual development found in most blends, for the initial olfactory proposal radically changes after minutes, somehow similar to a trader that sells you some good, being that due to the manufacturer's prowess it magically morphs when using it.

    I have to make clear that this is what the ones wearing it could perceive; however, what others smell on those wearing AE might be another completely, different story.

    29 April, 2011

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    Opium by Yves Saint Laurent

    This is for the actual version!

    Originally published in Fragantica:

    "Compared to the one manufactured by PPR, the previous licensee of YSL, this version is what can be called a failed blend - this is, a blend failing at conveying any sense of harmony.

    As per news published in the media, the actual manufacturer - L'Oreal - wanted to modernize it but in the effort, they negatively affected the blend: top notes smell harsh maybe due to the presence of synthetic floral notes, a feeling that is amped up by the presence of synthetics; mid and base notes feel pungent to the nose, sharing the same notes with other classics that have been reformulated - maybe the presence of an aromachemical used in lieu of some essential oil/s, a note that smells like regurgitated baby's milk. In this sense, the base notes smell quite similar to that of the reformulated Magie Noire. Interesting enough, this accord in the base notes contributes at making both new versions scents that could be easily be worn by men. They are femenine scents in their top notes, but if "feminine" is a synonym for "delicate", both have lost this attribute, for wearers won't find any delicacy at all: harshness in all its development is what one feels to the nose.

    One more word of caution: if you are among the ones thinking that Opium does share mid and base notes in common with Arami's JHL, I am sorry to inform you that this is not anymore so: there is a general feeling lurking around this concept, but similarities end there, so just don't think it could be a replacement for JHL. Better stick to the original, now that Estee Lauder decided to relaunch it.

    In summary, an olfactory mess, in the same line L'Oreal did with Ralph Lauren's Polo (green). Scents gone-by that forces any good-hearted perfume aficionado taking the trouble of finding either a replacement (in the case of Polo, some knock-ofs are more honest to the original formula) or securing whichever vintage bottle is available in the market. And, in the case of plain customers, forcing them to overcome the feeling L'Oreal is playing a joke at them when in the revamped version of the box they state "... para las mujeres que no se resisten a Opium, un nuevo frasco para su Eau de Toilette de siempre" ("For women that cannot resist the temptation of Opium, a new presentation for the Eau de Toilette they have always cherished")."

    18 March, 2011

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    JHL by Aramis

    I bought it when it was launched because it smelt almost the same as my Grandfather's signature scent, Carnaval de Venecia, a local high-end cologne for men that was a succes back in the 1930's - 1950's. At that time I was completely unaware that JHL's dry-down notes were very similar to that of Opium's (1997) and Youth Dew's (1953). Later, reading reviews in Base Notes, I came to know that Cinnabar (1978) falls in the same league.

    These comments might convey several ideas, the first one is that JHL lacks originality, and to an extent, this is so: it does resemple the three fragrances previously mentioned. As a matter of fact, I had the chance of being complimented on my wearing JHL with the remark that "I didn't know Opium pour femme smelt so good on men" (true, if we are referring to the vitage formulation, not today's mess thanks to L'Oreal's failed sense of innovation).

    The second one is that JHL does not smell masculine for those looking for the usual masculine blend composed of aromatics, spices and some masculine florals (ie, lavander). The aldehydes are prominent, as well as the florals and the spices, markedly cinnamon. So aldehydes and florals are the ones responsible for is femenity, and the spices the reason why its drydown makes sense to its claim - well, akin to Opium pour femme, a perfume that in this sense can be easily worn by men.

    Now, what about Youth Dew and Cinnabar? Let's take the years they were launched: Youth Dew in 1953. In 1977 YSL launched Opium. As mentioned in many blogs and reviews, Lauder's owner thought herself being robbed and decided to launch Cinnabar (1978), but it did not catch up to Opium's succes. Common sense dictates that there could be an oportunity if the company relaunched it as a masculine, and here one might hypothetizise why JHL was launched in 1982.

    As per the rest of the history, it is said that Chanel´s Coco, launched in 1984, was blended by Olivieir Polge with all these blends in mind.

    Adding all up, perfume formulas are non-registrable, so the only option in order to protect a company's product is through branding. Any question as to why we are flooded by mediocre blends being aggresivley marketed through adverts in which famous celebs abound? Thanks God for independent perfume companies.

    BTW, I like them all and would wear any of them, nuisances aside. After all, I could be as well wearing Carnaval de Venecia from a bottle dating from the 1940's.


    13 March, 2011

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    Brooks Brothers for Men by Brooks Brothers

    Notes include bergamot, petitgrain oil, tangerine, carnation, , cumin, oak moss, vetiver, and musk. The following terms were not translated by Google so I leave them to Estonian BNoters willing to contribute: raudürt, võhumõõgajuur.

    At first smell there are notes common to classic "white shirt" scents launched during the 1990's like Safari, XS, Tiffany and Chanel pour Monsieur Concentree, thus BB is not that different and / or original. Besides, the blend lacks the subtlety and the finesse of Tiffany and Chanel, wich does not reduce at all its quality and character, which is, to some point, improved by its longevity and sillage. As well as the ones mentioned, BB is a formal scent that is sold at a very convenient price, thus it would make a perfect replacement for those unwillig to spend prices carried by the ones mentioned.

    11th March, 2011

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    Outrageous! by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

    I like it, however, after trying it some thoughts come to mind:

    1. It is a spice bomb, or at least, it opens as such. Immediately after application I am being reminded of Xeryus, Jaguar, Jacomo, R&G Open, One Man Show, which, BTW, they all have been released during the 1970s and the 1980's. Thus, rather than a classic, we might be in front of a fashion victim.

    2. It feels like an aromatic fougere, the aromatics are so evident in the top notes that one can hardly think of it as something else. But...

    3. The dry-down reminded me Montana Parfum D'Home (Red). If you look into the pyramid, you will realise they both share leather in their base notes.

    4. OK, so this is an aromatic leather? Well, it does have oakmoss, but this is overran by the leather. Bold as many aromatics? Yes, indeed. Now, it is worth it if you have enough patience for its mid and base notes, provided you are used to those of what nowadays can be regarded as "classics" scents. Not a fashion victim in this sense, rather partially old school, the adjective being used for, if looking for these, there are better options (Tiffany, Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentree, Dunhill 1834, etc.).

    Now, if looking for fragrances at odds with olfactive anorexia, this might be your cup of tea - which is mine, and the reason I gave it a thumbs up.




    11th March, 2011

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    Quorum by Antonio Puig

    I clearly remember its release back in 1982, while visiting a Sakowitz store in Dallas: it was sold under a hefty price. Well, not anymore, it is now an inexpensive drugstore scent.

    I have two versions of it: the original and the new one. The first one is, literally, a bomb, meaning that its silage is remarkable to the point of conveying a deep sense of dirtiness after application. In this sense, Mario Justiniani's review - "Some fragrances are referred to as " Sex in a bottle." This is crotch in a bottle." - is right, even though I don't agree with it. I am trying to be as neutral as possible, so I guess this marked "dirt /BO" note (cumin?) must have been the blender's intention as per the fashion of the days it was launched. The present version has been reformulated for the good, IMHO, this meaning Quorum is far from being a bland blend. It is still strong and bold, indeed, compared to the usual releases, but not the way it used to be.

    In the cas eof Quorum, bergamot and lemon in the top notes, are very noticeable. Spicy accords give this hesperidic composition a strong "manly" character, maybe because of the pine. Leather and tobacco are the notes that are most obvious in the dry-down, however, with a powdery note reminiscent of classic scents. I have to mention that in my case it draws compliments among the ladies as well as some men.

    For Argentine BNoters, take note that Equus Pampa made by Saint Julien is quite faithful to Quorum's original formulation - the dirtiness absent in the reformulated Quorum is still present in this one. In my case, and as far as it goes, I prefer the reformulated version, for the boldness has been freed of the BO accords.

    28 February, 2011

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    Monsieur Worth by Worth

    This refers to an "Eau de cologne triple": I cannot figure what this last term means, maybe the manufacturer wanted to convey the idea that it was a stronger eau de cologne, for its sillage and longevity are better than the blends so classified.

    It has the structure of a classic fougere, and when I mean "classic", I mean it is not of the kind of blend with an overpowering opening. The citric accords morph into woody / musky notes in short period of time in a not very complex way. This arrangement reminds me of other classics, like Monsieur Rochas. If you think of the hesperic ones of the same age like Eau Sauvage and Monsieur de Givenchy, the dirty / indolic notes are rather quite marked in comparisson to these. In that sense, it feels like the reformulated Monsieur Rochas: this last one achieves the same effect (a dark, prominent animalic note in the mid-base notes) in a much more complex way.

    For those expecting a sillage / longevity monster, this won´t be their choice. It is, indeed, the right one for occasions demanding a formal suit - I refer to situations when men have to be well groomed and perfumed the elegant way and a short period of time.

    26 February, 2011 (Last Edited: 25 November, 2013)

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    Hervé Léger Homme by Hervé Léger

    Tested on my skin, I could not detect the yuzu nor the ginger: the woody notes and the amber were very obvious notes in it. Does it mean lack of complexity? To an extent. The initial notes are bold, so to speak, but what follows is an olafctory mystery beacuse I could not trace any kind of smell, to such an extent I asked myself if this was the kind of scent aimed at wearers who are turned - off at the idea of sillage. Minutes after this proved wrong for the projection was very noticeable, at least for my nose. What followed was a very contemporary blend of spicy / woody notes which I enjoyed a lot. The question would be which woods? Well, I am sorry to say that my untrained nose could not identify the woody notes with a particular kind of wood, so I would say "generic woods", plus amber and spices.

    In summary, the way it morphed reminded me Lacroix's Absynthe, spicy, woody, noticeable for the wearer as well as enjoyable. IMHO; a good thing, you can smell the scent in yourself, but as far as it seems, the wearer won't be pointed out as "The Cologne Guy".


    11th February, 2011

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    Paul Smith London for Men by Paul Smith

    Excellent sillage, good longevity and very complex, although the notes mentioned by those around me were not the ones included in the pyramid: "tea" was the one mentioned by most followed by woody accords mixed with those of a distilled alcoholic beverage.

    The opening is sharp, itchy to a certain extent but not uncomfortable to the nose. What follows is a composition that is quite difficult to explain because of the blend's richness - PS feels like a palimpsest, for the interpretation of the blend's silage was different to every person around the wearer. We all could detect whiffs, but these were of different accords, so, for some what seemed like flowers, for others were woods, or spices.

    This is the kind of blend that makes you discharge preconceptions about modern perfume - making and design, not everything new is bad, there are good things around, PS London being one of such.

    30th December, 2010

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    Black Suede Touch by Avon

    It shares many notes with Bogart's pour Homme, however, spicier, without the cherry-tobacco notes, with less longevity but more complex than the former.

    It is a very enjoyable scent, with a very contemporary style and I guess the right choice for those with a conservative attitude towards scent-wearing - namely, men who just don't want to be complimented at the scent being worn by them (for this might be ground to think that they just don't know how to wear EdTs) as well as for those looking for a good value for money.

    So girls, look for this one if you want to risk making your man smell nice.

    08 December, 2010

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    Lomani by Lomani

    Initial notes felt like a trip to the past, were not those of inexpensive scents widely available back in the late 1980's? Many reviewers mention Lomani's similarity to Drakkar Noir which was a bestseller back then, thus becoming a parameter for other blends trying to be as succesfull as this one. Might this be the case of Lomani?

    Speculations aside, Lomani does not feel like a powerhouse they way many blends launched at that time were like. This is not Kouros, Balenciaga nor Lapidus, less aside Or Black: provided it is applied discreetly - if not, it can turn into a rather sweet blend to the point of cloyness (blame the patchouly mixed with amber) - , the presence of lavender is obvious, but the way it blends with the tangerine and the lemon gives it a humbler character that morphs into very discrete mid and base notes, which are worth waiting for. These - patchouly, vetiver oakmoss and amber - turns the blend into a scent that is characteristic of those worn by during the 1970's / early 1980's: it feels rather classic and gentlemanly, a characteristic that does not give any account as to its very low price.

    To a certain extent, while wearing Lomani I had the feeling that it shared notes with Mary Kay's Tribute - call this one Lomani's hiperbolic version. If the wearer wants to compare both scents, he or she might as well check Lomani's and Tribute's pyramids for there are notes in common, namely, hesperidic top notes, woody / amberine mid and base notes.

    Choose your version, similar in character, different in the way they both project.

    08 December, 2010

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    Absynthe for Him by Christian Lacroix

    Of course, after Tumulte, whatever is launched under the name Lacroix is doomed to be bad. But, this can be worth a try: it is classified as an oriental spicy scent, and as such, it opens with pepper and cardamom notes, as well as what people and experts in perfume - making call "fig". Curiously enough, this mixture feels like a peppery / fruity chocolate mix that seems to vanish after application, however making a grand rentree after minutes, and from then on projecting in a rather subdued way. A mystery of modern chemistry, it might feel a "close-to-the-skin" scent but it is not, but the projection won't feel like powerhouses do. Longevity is quite good, but its complexity is rather tame.

    The curious point is that absynthe is an alcholic bevearge made of artemisa absinthium. Even though I never had the chance of smelling that plant's flowers or leaves, I tried absynthe, of which I can tell it is almost the same as anisette. In the case of the fragrance being reviewed, there are definetely none anise-like notes in this blend, so if you look after these, you might as well try other options.

    08 December, 2010

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    Cuba Orange by Cuba Paris

    If you are giving this one a chance, do it for the mid and base notes for they are quite similar to that of Rochas Lui. The top notes are, simply said, off putting.

    24 October, 2010

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    7 de Loewe by Loewe

    A very nice surprise indeed for its originality and complexity - still, most of the notes mentioned (Neroli, Muguet, Rose, Pepper, Incense, Atlas cedar, Musk, Red apple, Cedar) are not among the ones I can perceive as prominent: that would be cloves as the type smelt in eugenol mixed with incense, later morphing into cedar and incense and some floral notes. Loweve 7's blend would seem to play around these for a substantial amount of time, even though this remark may suggest lack of compexity, this is not so for this is one if its remarkable attributes - top, mid and base notes take a lot of time to evolve.

    It is a manly, serious, formal scent crafted in a very classical yet updated way. So far, one holding my attention when it comes to adding to my wardrobe.

    23 October, 2010

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    Network by Lomani

    A mild citric / spicy fragrance that gets one attention because it is worlds appart from the present-day style popular among budget as well as designer's global-brands fragrances; in other words, trying this makes the wearer think of the fact that it does not pay any tribute to its low price and tacky presentation. Smelling good can be inexpensive, and low prices do not compromise taste at all, Lomani proves this clearly.

    22 September, 2010

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    El Paso by Lomani

    This is the kind of scent that makes you wonder what would happen if it would be decanted into a bottle of any of the EdCs sold by Hermes... would wearers be fooled? Or El Paso's humble origins would be clearly exposed to both the experienced and unexperienced nose?

    Anyway, I tried it with low expectations due to the reference made by Moonrat as it being an acquatic, its price and very tacky pakaging design. Well, it was a surpirse; it felt as a mild fougere (it has lavender and oakmoss) with a very enjoyable drydown. The notes that make of El Paso such a scent were clear to my olfactory perception - you can as well check this out in the pyramid. The surprise was vastly improved after realizing the drydown was superb, literally, albeit coherent with a limited longevity surpassing that of an EdC but not to the extent of a recently launched present-day fixative-galore global designer brandname scent.

    I would describe El Paso's composition as classical, so my comments on Network applies to this one: not contemporary, not rancid, classical, inexpensive, enjoyable, horrible packaging design and inexpensive rather than cheap. Don't be fooled, appareances can be tricky, so check this out, youmight be surprised.

    22 September, 2010

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    Aromadisiac for Him by Avon

    Defined as a leather fragrance, I cannot smell any sort of note related to it. It is rather a spicy scent in its top notes, sweet but not overpowering, rather restrained, with some fruit-like note playing around in a extremely subdued "smells--like-paper" context.

    To me, complexity, sillage and longevity are very limited, so I wonder this one deserves heavy application if you want to get wiffs of it for an extended period of time. This could be a reason for a hands down, but I like it. I guess it might be a good choice for situations demanding a very conservative approach to wearing scents.

    31st July, 2010

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    Cuba Red by Cuba Paris

    A wonderful tobacco and boozy blend, similar to Remy Latour's Cigar. Descriptions made by reviewers are accurate: it is linear and it short lived, a perfect choice when looking for a masculine and not overpowering fragrance - for example, to be worn in the morning before training, after a shower or when among people that do not like strong scents.

    It has a kind of formal and old-school aura, strong at first due to fleeting notes of citrousy tobacco that are evident even to non-experts. The drydown is very subtle, the strength of the patchouly is restrained so Cuba Red wearers are not to be afraid of smelling like a pot-head in disguise. For the price, one of the best values for money, besides the fact you won't be among the millions of calone or chocolate / patchouly lovers

    10th June, 2010

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    Romance for Men by Ralph Lauren

    Top notes smelled promising in line with very formal accords, but after minutes these promising notes don't live up to expectations, turning into some sort of cloying, caramel - and - spices mid notes, leaving my skin within three hours. I had the odd feeling of smelling an updated version of Safari gone awry. Good intentions, bad execution: quite forgivable.

    17 December, 2009

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    Lapidus pour Homme by Ted Lapidus

    LpH has the strongest opening of all the scents I ever tried in my life, to such a point that I felt upon application that I doused in it unvoluntarily, with the added disgrace that I find the inital notes offputting. Of course, the first time I tried it I simply rejected it without much ado, but retrial made me discover a unique scent in this era of raquitic, squalid and characterless scents.

    Top notes are descirbed as pinapple. Albeit listed in the pyramid, I cannot identify these first accords with this note, unless we are dealing with a very sharp, synthetic kind of aromachemical resembling it: to my nose, this feels like a mixture between aniseed and lemon. From then on, it evolves in a flowery way along the top notes, these playing the role of a leitmotiv - jasmine and roses accords are clearly perceptible, soothing LpH's initial boldness and turning it into a scent along the lines of classical accords I found in what used to be femenine scents dating from mid XX century. As a point in case, I recall analogies in this sense betwee TLpH, YSL's Kouros and Balenciaga pour Homme: even thought present time masculines, there are flowery notes mixed with animalic accords I had the chance of identifying in some women's forgotten classics - to be more precise, Schiaparelli's Shocking and Pucci's Vivara.

    Of course, for many this would mean Ted Lapidus is dated and "old - lady" like. Not for me, I enjoy this boldness and complexity, so rare to find among contemporary designer and drugstores scents. So, if unsure about this one, play safely: test before buying, not once, but many times.

    14 December, 2009

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    Agua Brava by Antonio Puig

    More of a skin bracer to be applied as an after shower, however not as a body splash due to the irritating effects of the vegetable alcohol used in the blend. AB's main trait is that it has a very short longevity, but the initial sillage is prominent. It is a harsher, more pungent version of Pino Silvestre, opening with citric and pine top notes mixed with a smokey accord, later leading to a sandalwood and musky drydown.

    I really like it, not only because it is a classic due to its olfactory structure - at odds regarding the latest fashion of shrieking sweet masculines that feel to be worn in drag, like JPG's Le Mal, Fleur de Mal, Mugler's A*Men and the rest - as well as the time it has been in the market.

    However, in the Southern Cone of Latin America (Chile, Argentina and Uruguay) it is considered a cheap option due to the fact it is a very inexpensive fragrance sold exclusively in drugstores, so it lacks the snob factor that might direct perceptions among many aficionados.

    Don't be fool by this and wear it as a statement of what masculine scents ought to smell like.

    10th December, 2009

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    Jacomo de Jacomo by Jacomo

    I like it, however fleeting it is. The clove - dominant top notes makes it quite attractive for me, albeit the analogy to insect repellent as mentioned by other reviewers- blame it on weird tastes if you like. From then on the Jacomo leads to musky notes with the prevalence of the same spicy accords mentioned before.

    I ask myself how this one made it after so many years for J's style is at odds regarding the overly sweet blends in style today. As I said, longevity is limited, but the initial sillage is quite strong. A good choice for week-end wearing.


    09 December, 2009

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    Agua de Colonia Concentrada by Alvarez Gomez

    Alvarez Gómez is a traditional perfume store selling their own fragrance line, of which this is its most known one. Thus, if a lover of tradtional eaux and while in Madrid you can not miss this one.

    AGCC is an excelently blended Eau de Cologne that is far more zesty than the usual ones. Lemon is quite prominent in the top notes; it has a spicy edge that might be due to the presence of lavender, not medicinal yet somehow reminiscent of mint, which is attenuated by the rest of the notes, rosemary, geranium and rose.

    As Ody said, you can not go wrong with this due to its fairly low price and very good quality.

    05 December, 2009

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    Vetiver Extreme by Guerlain

    Vetiver EO smells rooty, a statement of the obvious since it is a root. The point is, Vetiver Extreme is rootier than the regular version. So, if you want the earthy feeling vetiver has, a simpler and less complexity plus added longevity in relation to the original version, this would be the right choice.

    I like this earthy-rooty accord, the reason why I am granting it a thumbs up.

    05 December, 2009

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    Royal Copenhagen by Royal Copenhagen

    According to the estonian site http://www.parfyym.pri.ee, RC's pyramid includes:

    Top Notes: aldehydes, bergamot, cardamom, green notes, lemon, lime, lavender
    Mid Notes: carnation, cedar, jasmine, patchouli, rose, vetiver
    Base notes: ambergris, heliotroop, honey, moss, musk, tonka bean, vanilla, tobacco

    (There is one mid note Google's Translator fails to translate: "vohumoogajur" - estonian / english on-line dictionaries failed to provide for a translation too).

    Well, this does not describe RC in an accurate way for even though RC is a chypre, the progression is so fast that citric notes get almost lost: of course top notes are quite enjoyable for the lemon / lime / bergamot / cardamom stand out; but as I said, in an very short period of time, these notes turn into mid and base notes in a way note-identification becomes quite a challenge. I am not expecting the clarity of a Goutal from RC, of course, but I was left with a feeling of unfulfilled expectation.

    No need to add that the musk is prominent, so the end result is a musky mish-mash treated in a way it ends up feeling very powdery As Foetidus said, this progression makes it rather a linear scent. What lays from then on is a very long-lasting powdery fragrance.

    This makes unavoidable comparissons to others of the same type, specially Jaipur and Zizanie: being powderiness a common trait, in the case of Zizanie the initial sillage is remarkable, not so its longevity. In the case of Jaipur, this is even more powdery but sweeter, as modern-fragrance style dictates - something that makes me think that Menardo got inspiration fro these kind of classics.

    I like this one, but take this from someone enjoying classic - style scents. I would say it is right for those known for their independence of criteria.


    28 November, 2009

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    TL pour Lui by Ted Lapidus

    Very similar to Bogart pour Homme (2004) with the addition of amberine notes, thus having a more classic structure than Bogart's. There are some cedar-like notes but not to the extent as those found in cedar-prominent EdTs like Gucci pour Homme or Lacroix's Tumulte: it is a sweet oriental woody without being suffocating, sickly sweet or cloying. Sillage and longevity is above average.

    24 November, 2009

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    Legacy for Men by Avon

    Among Ann Gotlieb's first ones together with Colors Uomo by Benetton, it is still available in Argentina. Being one of the creations of many of Axe's / Lynx scents as well as present releases (among them CK Man and Euphoria, and as far as I know, these ones done in colaboration wit other perfumistas), I thought it would be a good idea to review it.

    I have to warn readers that there is not such thing as an available pyramid for Avon's Legacy, so I will have to resort to the extent of my limited knowledge: Legacy opens with a blast much in style of scents released during the 1980's, being bergamot / minty notes the prominent ones. These blend with woody musky notes, thus giving Legacy a kind of traditonal / barbershop character. Legacy's evolution is quite linear, but the initial notes recede in favor of the usual combination of notes found in woody oriental fragrances, even though the original composition behaves like an aromatic fougere in terms of its strength. Sillage is quite strong and longevity average.

    Legacy's style might seem dated - there are no gourmand notes, strong floral accords making it a sweet blend nor acquatic accords. In these terms, Legacy's style can't be qualified as subtle, subdued or gentlemanly, not even in its drydown, which can be the case of powerhouse classics like Maxim's or Antaeus; this makes me feel like stating that it can be considered as a failed version of a powerhouse.

    Good for the curious, wearable by the self assured with the ability to ignore what others might think. It takes a lot of courage to wear it - plus boots and a stetson. A thumbs up for its total lack of political correctness and gross demeanour.

    19 November, 2009

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    Tribute by Mary Kay

    One site mentions Tribute's form Men notes including bergamot, lime, mandarin, sandalwood, patchouli and vetiver; another one adds to the previous ones oranges.

    I would not describe the opening as nice, there is a plastic-like note that does not do any kind of favor to mid and base notes for it gives the impression that the blend will be a failure to my olfactive senses. But as soon as this fades away (a matter of minutes) T shows a more harmonious composition, even though at first impression the mandarin and the vetiver might be regarded as non complementary notes. As the composition moves to the mid notes, T morphs into a dryer / darker direction, to some extent in a similar way to classical fragrances. There is a talcum powder feeling reminiscent of scents launched in the 1930's like Canoe or Zizanie, maybe due to the patchouli and the sandalwood with the addition of bergamot, this contributing to a more updated feeling.

    Of course, we are talking about Mary Kay here, and this might have an impact on the perception of the blend. Believe me, I am trying to be as objective as possible: I think this is worth a try since I can't recall similar scents. So, to the extent of my knowledge, I must praise its originality - as long as I am not missing trying scents akin to it.

    18 November, 2009

    rating


    Gianfranco Ferré for Man by Gianfranco Ferré

    This one barks, but it does not bite: the powerhousish top notes are just a disguise for very powdery and subdued mid and top notes. Many will find it outdated or even old-lady like in its mid notes, but do not fool yourself for its real character is that of a gentleman.

    31st October, 2009

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