Reviews

Reviews by sfonativeboy

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Fleur de Peau by Keiko Mecheri

Keiko Mecheri's fragrances tend to be very light and very feminine
she definitely knows her clientele..and caters to their tastes well...
she usually keeps her fragrances light and powdery..
This is a slightly different .....
its very pronounced civet note is mixed well with leather ...
making it sensual and masculine

A powdery Russian Leather scent.

reminds me of TABAC BLOND


23rd August, 2012

Boxeuses by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

Been wanting to try this fragrance since
an amazing review given by "PERFUME SHRINE"....
She wrote ...
"Boxeuses goes straight for the jugular, playing on the familiar, original codes of the Lutensian universe: violet-tinged woods, plummy fruits, somptuous spices..."

So here are my initial impressions...

I get alot of initial WOOD notes and Leather notes..
but its pretty linear....and rather quiet
Wears pretty close to the skin...
Incensy and ...."Powdery"
which I read somewhere it's going to be a return Fragrance Trend for 2011.

There's a piquant touch to it
perhaps its the Licorice....
The much ballyhooed and talked about fruity Plum notes showed up very subtle and much later
as the fragrance adapted to my skin.

Shame!....I really expected much more EXOTICISM!

"Perfume Shrine" called it...A Love-Child of a
Cuir de Russie type and Rochas Femme.

I frown a bit to comparing this fragrance to
the standard.. of CUIR Fragrances
like CUIR de RUSSIE and TABAC BLOND...

Believe me ....I have converted with Religious Fervor to the Fragrance CULT that is SERGE LUTENS...

sooo it's almost HERESY to say .....

"Why settle for "Tributes" or Vague Copies ..
when you can afford the real deal."

This not a Lutens favorite and I won't regret it.......
16th August, 2012

Cuir Mauresque by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

What a great Leathery and Exotic Spice scent this is ...
a Bona fide "UNISEX scent.
A man would be comfortable in wearing this as an evening scent. Like I did .
yet.....
I'd love to smell this on a well dressed woman ...
she'd have to be a very confident and mysterious one
much like this fragrance is ....
The mandarin peel and orange blossom with cedar notes listed are sooo subtle they are indiscernible.

The dry down is powdery and brings to mind
CHANEL - CUIR de RUSSIE
and a bit ...of
"CARON's Tabac Blonde"

I'll just say ......
Entertain Inspirations...... Embrace Decadent Cravings... Reward Yourself......

I'm reveling in all its sordid exotic scented ironies...
16th August, 2012
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De Profundis by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

I just got a sample in the mail today....
well.... this is definitively an unusual
fragrance....

I find this scent oddly familiar...
I smell.....

a..Funeral... quiet on a cold foggy day.
Abundant Tears, Grief and Despair.
SADNESS!!!! all be it persistent Sadness, like Rain.

I also smell.......

a Cemetery...wet green earthy accords
The pale lily-dahlia-chrysanthemum flowers
and
funeral wreaths left on the graves...

There is the opening of the pale chrysanthemums followed by the rest of the bouquet,
flowers that have a bit of spiciness that lingers on your skin
The fragrance rings hollow, like an echo or
a watermark.

There is something perceptible like incense
but I find it only detectable as a feeling of
calm and quiet,
it isn’t a dominant note at all...and yet it almost feels like it is a main player of the fragrance because of the serenity it emits.

Perhaps some unmentioned chamomile petals which reinforces that sensation of.. rest,calm and peacefulness as the perfume slowly...
"Ascends" or "Descends"
into the base notes....
Like last words before its gone...
you are drawn even closer...to catch
it whispers its last breaths silently of spices and woody warmth.


I'm brought to tears .........for it brings to mind
the cementery I visit with my mother every now and then .....
to leave flowers for my departed sister ...
she died 4 years ago...

I read in some fragrance Blogs ...

"De Profundis" is NOT a perfume to be worn
and was never meant to be a "dark fragrance"
(smelling the perfume you"ll understand why it lacks all the qualities of a real perfume).


It is a symbolic urn meant to be collected and preserved or a bouquet of chrysanthemums offered every 1st November when someone dear has recently passed away.
16th August, 2012

Vitriol d'Oeillet by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

I read fragrance blogs that this would be a Powdery CARNATION fragrance...
I imagined it .....to be a very modern take on the classic BELLODGIA by CARON
which I love for its in your face CARNATION notes....
softened by VANILLA, MUSK and CLOVE.

Boy was I pleasantly wrong.
This fragrance is really spicy. !!!!
PINK PEPPER... PEPPER... PIMENTO(PAPRIKA) are ingredients listed
and they are the are the strongest notes that hit my nose first
they then remain there tingling
much the way Jalapenos peppers tingle
the lips and tongue
This sounds ..terrible,unless you happen to like that kind of FIERY sensation
SERGE LUTENS manages to soften this fiery concotion
with CARNATION FLOWERS and a hint of CLOVE
The NUTMEG is a hidden note .. I could not detect.

The fragrance that it brings to mind for its similar
unique spiciness
If i could suggest such a thing...
AMBRE GRIS by BALMAIN

Both are spicy......and peppery and very masculine in
an upfront manner.
however, Vitriol turns into a light powdery spicy fragrance
which then develops into yes...
a sharp woody scent
and back again ....

A juxtoposition of scents...I know.
a most unusual feat in of itself .
that in the end .. is very unisex !!!

Bravo SERGE!!
You won me over again....with your complexity!
16th August, 2012

Santal Majuscule by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

Just got a sample of this scent...
SANTAL MAJUSCULE on me ...
its similar to Jeux de Peau....
in that its very.... PASTRY sweet
my first whiff caught an undeclared chocolate note..
but it just settled into very sugary notes
like a "Maple-glazed doughnut with a cup a coffee"...
longevity is pretty good...
still need to try out SANTAL BLANC..
however,I prefer ....SANTAL MYSORE
for its complexity and uniqueness...
16th August, 2012

Jeux de Peau by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

Jeux de Peau
The scent of Baked Bread like Croissants ....even a Baguette is intended and unmistakable

On the skin, my nose picks up something of the nuances of bread which seem to
fade into a buttery heaven,
with an tiny bit of Fruity Confiture
As the perfume mellows down it takes on a subtle nuances ...
Skin and Croissant/ Baguette get confused.

Jeux de Peau is a skin scent...
meant to stay close to the body,
disappearing into nothing more than a whisper.
The Bread butter smell is very faint and you need to be very close to encounter it.

The drydown is particularly beautiful
Settling into a wood palette of milky sandalwood.
.
This fragrance is made to play with our memory of
things we are familiar with
and unconsciously like ....
16th August, 2012

Five O'Clock Au Gingembre by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

This is a very nice
Masculine Fragrance....
A fine gift idea for that special guy,
When you want to get him "a special something" for his Birthday or Christmas.
I like it ... but not enough zing!
so I thought ... hmmmmmm
let me re-try the sample I have ...

so last night I wore it to bed ...
ahhhhhhh! Rich, Molasses,Gingerbread
and Cloves....
it was there on my wrists and arms
when I woke up this morning ...

So ... I rethought it out ...
I might just buy this for myself .....
as a comfort fragrance.....

but to receive it as a gift ...
I'd still say a very content
...."Yes, Let's Rendez-vous at 5pm!"
08th October, 2011 (last edited: 16th August, 2012)

Ambre Sultan by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

I got this for my Birthday last year ...
I love this Fragrance!

LUSH!
Warm, Interesting, Unique, Edgy.
Those are the first words ...
With time the Amber which curiously isn't listed as an ingredient...
so lets call it ...
"The RESINS"
deepen to a languorous and rich creamy sensuality, with other notes coming through.

Inhale the sweetness....
the deliciousness

Your mind wanders and suddenly you are far away ...
YEMEN, OMAN and The Kingdom of Saudi Arabia....perhaps
Enamel black eyes,
The scent of wood fires at night
The Stars sooo close you barely touch them ...

The Mystery ...
The boundary between Everything and Nothing...
Dare to open your eyes and ruin the dream.....
08th October, 2011 (last edited: 16th August, 2012)

Daim Blond by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

Such soft Suede/Leather notes...!
Warm and Creamy on my skin .. but
it lacks kick .. punch ...zing!
a "Heaviness" that I associate with LEATHER scents...
it's a good scent .. but ...
too "Uptight" ..
too "Lady's that Lunch Crowd"
too dare I say.... "CORPORATE" ..
it doesn't "Stir the Pot" ..
it doesn't "cause conflict" ..
it doesn't promote "Overt Sexuality" ..
it's at best "Naughty Underwear under your Best Suit"!
I like it ...
but I really wanted this to be sooo much more ..
I might still purchase it ... but
use it as a base for a layering effect ..
08th October, 2011

Tilda Swinton Like This by Etat Libre d'Orange

Like This....
What a unique fragrance....
there are slightly Floral notes...
and an earthy quality to it ...
Creamy like a Mushroom or Moss...
but not a dirty earthy feel ..
it's far to cheerful.
I guess the Rose helps with that ...
The Musk gives it a wonderful
leather-ish finish ..
it all settles together ..
quite nicely on my skin ..

I noticed that
the Leather-ish notes settled into a very ...
yummy "MAPLE SYRUP" scent ..
strange ..yes..
but Wonderfully Unique!

I like the compliments I'm getting while wearing this fragrance.
and it seams everybody is intrigued by the name and by the poem it is inspired by as they are with the scent.

Not only do I appear to be well scented
but very interesting as well...
08th October, 2011

Ambre Russe by Parfum d'Empire

Yes ... Vodka and Champagne are the effervescent top notes to hit me ..
then there is...
a dark tea that takes over ....
it's the honeyed amber/ incense /leather base that remains
on my skin that I find sooo Enchanting.
This fragrance ...has subtle nuances to delight you...

A top notch Fragrance ...
very Elegant and Sophisticated...
it doesn't scream..
"Smell me .. I'm Rich!"

A person wears it .. not for others to declare how amazingly classy you are ..
but you wear it for yourself..
because you know you are Elegant and Sophisticated .. and yes .. quite possibly RICH.
08th October, 2011

Esprit de Cuir by Auguste

This fragrance wears close to the skin.
it's a unique subtle scent ...
Rich and complex..
that lingers and fades and then appears
bringing a smile on my face ..
like a forgotten memory...of someone or someplace

Because a perfume speaks to the heart,
not to the mind.

Homais, in "Madame Bovary", says "Perfume is to stupefy the senses and to bring on ecstasies".

this scent does that.... Quietly & Privately
....................................................
I recently procured a sample from Luckyscent.com
This fragrance is soooo out of my price league...
245.00 for 40ml
but one can dream a little ...
Thanks to a sample vial.

Oranges and Carnations hit my nose first
followed by a clever mix of floral (Jasmine) and Birch wood notes...
A wonderful rich leather scent as a base.

Soft and deep, mysterious and sophisticated.

I've got to have this!!!
08th October, 2011
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Serendipitous by Serendipity 3

I got nothing but compliments ..
Wow! LOVE this fragrance ..!!!!
I smell of ..."Cake and all things Yummy"
that's what I was told today.
there is a Rich Chocolate hiding there somewhere...
YUM! YUM !YUM!
08th October, 2011

Idole de Lubin by Lubin

Rich, incense-y, and very, very mysterious.
An androgynous distinctive and distinguished scent.
A very magical potion that can cast
a love spell.. perhaps ..
Much the way the Creoles liked to do in the French Quarter of New Orleans.....
reminds me of Bourbon French Parfums VOODOO LOVE...
a deep, earthy fragrance.
A re-creation of the special potion Voodoo Queen Marie Laveau gave to her favored clients so they could gain the object of their affections.

Rum and exotic spices mingle with dark, smoky woods and leather...
you can almost hear the drums beating off in the distance...in Congo Square in the Tremé neighborhood of New Orleans, Louisiana,
just north of the French Quarter.

Voodoo warning
Is calling
Down in Limbo
Moonlight lush life
Bears strange fruit
Down in Limbo
Creole tattoo......

Idole by Lubin
I think I'll buy you
08th October, 2011

Private Collection - Un Crime Exotique by Parfumerie Generale

Private Collection Un Crime Exotique by Parfumerie Generale

This name alone creates a sense of..
Heightened DRAMA.....
something will happen or is about to happen
and your in the middle of it .

Intrigued and lured by its Old Hollywood Film Noire name
I ventured to sample it ....

"INDOCHINE"
might have been a better suited name ....

Allow me to set the film up....
The Decadence of the French living in Vietnam and the exploitive evils of Colonialism....
A exotic place all Steamy and Humid!
Languorous visits to hidden
Mandarin "OPIUM DENS"...
All the while you are floating on a "JUNK" on tranquil waters.....
When suddenly you are awakened by the rude shots of a gun....
You feel the wetness of liquid on your chest. the OPIUM has dulled your sense of pain ....
Is it blood ? NO!
The smell of fragrance fills the air ...
Your favorite crystal decanter lies on the floor shattered....
You smile ...
having cheated death one more time ... you return to your revelry.


My review:
I really like this Spiced Tea Infusion scent.

The fragrance is so heady with GINGER and Spice... predominantly Saigon Cinnamon.
Perhaps this mysterious sounding ingredient ..called
"Osmanthus"
which in CHINA is infused with green or black tea leaves, to create a scented tea called guì huā chá (OSMANTHUS TEA)
this might create the "CRIME EXOTIQUE"
in this Potent,Intoxicating and Long Lasting Fragrance....

A 50ml bottle for 100.00 bucks
not bad ...
I'll add it to my Ever Expanding Fragrance Wishlist
15th January, 2011

Santos by Cartier

I had it ... back in the 80's
I also was young and full of Ideas or Dreams ...
Notions of what I thought made me feel Rich,Sophisticated and Elegant...
Van Cleef & Arpels pour Homme along with fave Santos Cartier...
created that illusion for me...
wow.... who knew that a long-lasting,
sweet-strong sandalwood, mix of lavender, basil, vetiver, carnation, patchouli..
with a dry down that is an exquisite mixture of ambergris in a deep-down leathery/smokey/incense-like chords
would make me long for those youthful days .. now!
07th July, 2010

Back to Black by By Kilian

I Need You Like A Drug
Highly addictive I kept applying a bit on my wrist .. just to smell it!!
...stealing private "scentual" moments to myself .. while riding the bus...!

I like what IGNIS said .... "Sophisticated Sexiness" and "It's REALLY dreamy"

To breakdown and pin point all of this fragrance's complicated notes belittles it somehow....
but this is my impression...
fruity at first ...
Raspberries ..a touch of honeydew melon...
then it settles to a sweet candy ...could that be the honey and the olibanum, everybody mentions...
settling in a combo of ...
vanilla,amber and light tobacco.

To quote Claudia
from Interview with the Vampire
"I want some more!
19th June, 2010 (last edited: 14th December, 2011)

Safran Troublant by L'Artisan Parfumeur

I finally got a full bottle of this wonderful scent
and I am sooo pleased with it.
Its my first venture into the
Gourmand category of fragrances.

I love this smooth, sensuously
light and spicy scent.

The Saffron infusion ...added to
a rich and unique mixture of flower notes and my favorite base ... Vanilla!!!!

although it may sound like a "Plate of Paella"...
its very .... Uni-Sex in my book...

I cant stop smelling my wrist ....
and can't wait to wear this out and see what the response is from friends and strangers.

UP Date Oct7 2010:
My only compliant:
Non lasting and fleeting!
I find myself spraying it over and over....
to recapture its ethereal
magic.
19th June, 2010 (last edited: 15th January, 2011)

Tabacco by Odori

WOW!!!
I really like this Fragrance !!!
Rich in tone and feel...
Bitter orange softened with a hint of jasmine somehow works on my skin really well
that settles in a rich smoky base of Vanilla Tobacco...

TABAC BLOND is made very youthful .. even "Teenage" in comparison
and a Smokier robust leathery version of Chanel- Cuir Russe!
and yet there is no mention of LEATHER in the mix!

SOFT as a CASHMERE SWEATER..
Warm as a Cup of Coffee
"Grown-up" and comfortable like a
a Favorite Old Bookstore...

A new found fave!
I am unable to pry my nose from my wrist. !!! as we speak!!!
19th June, 2010

Cuir by Lancôme

Cuir De Lancome is my latest purchase.
and from the moment I sprayed it ...
I really was taken by its... yes,
Woody, Smoky and Leathery fragrance ....

Its an "Everyday-Leather" scent and luckily for me not too feminine.
Although my fave still remains
Chanel- Cuir Russie as a definitive
"LEATHER SCENT"

they do share similar notes...

Chanel Cuir de Russie:
aldehydes, orange blossom, bergamot, mandarin, clary sage; iris, jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang, cedarwood, vetiver; styrax, leather, amber, vanilla.

Lancôme Cuir: bergamot, mandarin, saffron, Jasmine, ylang-ylang, hawthorn, patchouli, Iris, birch, orris root, styrax.

The difference I found is that there is a grassy green note as it settles on my skin
to CUIR DE LANCOME..
not sure what produces this ...
but it works for me ... in a strange way

A male friend said it smelled like
"Expensive Men's Shaving Soap"

I think its another great find!!!
19th June, 2010

Absinth by Nasomatto

A very complex fragrance indeed...
It grew on me .. the more I add to my wrist and arms the better it got ...
but try to name the notes ...hmmm.

Definitely a green herbal note ..
then a smoked burnt incense ..
a dark tea of some sort ...
and then a Moss...or a Mushroom ..
earthy .. and calming...
WOORMWOOD ???

The more I sniff,
the more I want to add some more ...ahhh
That's the ....narcotic effects of ABSINTHE!!!!
19th June, 2010

Sin by Damien Bash

Please allow me to introduce myself
I'm a man of wealth and taste
I've been around for a long, long year
Stole many a man's soul and faith ...
"Pleased to meet you
Hope you guessed my name, oh yeah
But what's confusing you
Is just the nature of my game"

I expected something with a name
like LUCIFER...and SIN
would be a dark,luxurious,heavy even Loud...fragrance
much the way Dior's Poison was back in the 80's.
to my surprise...
Parfum Lucifer Sin
is fruity... sweet .. candied much like a Cherry Flavored Lifesaver...
and almost afraid of it's own power...
Sadly this fragrance fades into a subconscious whisper ...

It doesn't announce itself ..
linger or stain you with it's "presence"..
like you think something that with a name like Parfum LUCIFER would.
He Arrogantly would Declare himself to the World. "I Lucifer."

To quote Nina Hagen in her famous song New York New York...
"I know who I am
And I am willing to declare myself to the world
I am a star!"

sadly ...
He has fallen from Grace and his Brilliant Angel Wings have been clipped ...
Parfum Lucifer Sin
is for those that secretly want to be the Seducer... the Dominatrix.. the
Sexual Deviant ...
but are bit afraid to peer that close over the sexual edge.

I like the fragrance really,
but wish it was
brilliantly soo much more ...
19th June, 2010

1804 by Histoires de Parfums

The initial blast is very Floral...
Rose water and Lily of the Valley and fruity a coupling of Peach and something else...
Little did I know it was Pineapple!!!

Very much a Vanilla /Wood Mix ...as it settles on my skin...which is definitely
my favorite Base ...
19th June, 2010

Van Cleef & Arpels pour Homme by Van Cleef & Arpels

I had it ... back in the 80's
I also was young and full of ideas or dreams ...
Notions of what I thought made me feel RICH Sophiticated and ELEGANT...
Van Cleef & Arpels pour Homme along with Santos Cartier...created that illusion for me...
wow.... who knew that a
long-lasting, deep-down leather/smokey/tar-like chords
would make me long for those youthful days .. now!
19th June, 2010

Sacrebleu by Nicolaï

Raspberry... Currants
a hint of Cinnamon....with the depth and warmth that Vanilla and Clove ...usually bring.
the Incense is there barely hidden ...
giving it a smoky allure.

On me this is a very "FRENCH" fragrance..

Much in the same manner "BOUCHERON" bring me olfactory memories of
the Antique Shops along the Quai Voltaire in Paris...
19th June, 2010

Montana Parfum de Peau by Montana

Parfum de Peau, also known as Montana de Montana, is usually described as sexy, assertive, dirty, and sultry.

what a great way to describe such a complex fragrance....

I found it on my 1st trip to PARIS ..way back in 1989...at his Boutique facing Galerie Vivienne

I bought Parfum de Peau ,The Savon de Bain,and mens leather gloves in his trademark Cobalt BLUE...

All these years ...I never used the Savon the Bain ...I kept the Cobalt Blue Gloves wrapped gently around the soap box still in its original boutique bag.
His Fragrance, as well as the Savon de bain is so amazingly
well constructed and expertly made ..... that the Cobalt Gloves are now infused with the fragrance...
and I wear them with great pride of rare special occasions....

I bought Parfum de Peau on Ebay ..as a treat to myself for my Birthday .. and
yes, it remains the same formulation ...and if your lucky you might get a great deal on it ..like I just did ..
19th June, 2010

Chocolat Amère by Il Profumo

Here I thought the fragrance would be
rich mix of incense, woods and chocolate.
"Chocolat Amere is swoonworthy when worn by a man"
is what LUCKYSCENT advertised!
and I had really hoped for

this what I get ...
Fruity top notes..
with strong cacao that suddenly fades
into a powdery vanilla
thats not real long lasting...

not at all the ...
"The spices add alluring piquancy to the dark chocolate creaminess of the heart, and the base accord is an olfactory treat, a deep, satisfyingly rich mix of incense, woods and chocolate."

Disappointing!!
31st December, 2009

Absinthe by Grandiflorum

ABSINTHE:

alluring, enigmatic. This full-bodied perfume recalls Paris where poets and artists gathered in cafes to sip absinthe. Like its legendary name-sake, this heady perfume is built on a base or wormwood, which is sharp, intensely herbal and smells almost chocolatey. Vanilla adds a smoothing sweetness. Orange, grapefruit and rosewood round out this intoxicating composition.

Retails for $48.00.
however ...
Absinthe, Aftelier Perfumes, Discontinued (date unknown).
24th December, 2009

Pink Sugar by Aquolina

Ahhhhh...
A fragrance with the charm of Carnival Rides
.....and "Cotton Candy".!!!!

I like wearing it to bed...
"Sweet dreams... are made of this.....!"

but it's the compliments I get
from guys and girls...

That's what keeps me wearing it...
11th November, 2009 (last edited: 08th October, 2011)