Perfume Reviews

Reviews by purecaramel

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Total Reviews: 170

Estivalia by Antonio Puig

More of an Eau de Cologne on my male skin. Citrus top which shortlived. Light floral with a Vetiver finish.
Uncomplicated, fresh, not overly Feminine aura. Nice for the hot, humid, summers. A cut bove the regular body wash scents.
22nd March, 2017

Incense Oud by Nicolaï

Structure of this has a Nicolai Signature common to all that I have nosed. A centre of gravity low within the Heart Notes. Light touch of Oud is surrounded by a thin blanket of Patch and Cedary woodiness.
With this scent Ambrette is used similar to Chanel's No. 18. It draws my mind to the distance with a whisper of Rose vague.
The Base feels light. The weight of Amber and Styrax is like one stroke of a Watercolour. The Omani is a sliver of light singular. I fail to identify the Castoreum.
All in all a very pleasant scent fitting for the time.
Hope to nose Oud Sublime Extrait sometime in the future.
21st March, 2017

adr_ett by Nomenclature

Interesting scent that starts with a light airy citric fruitiness and whispers of spice and mallow. Some sparkles of of effervescence, a base of Vanillinized Tonkin and a touch of concocted Ambergris.
In spite of it's quiet footprint I can appreciate it's etch.
08th February, 2017
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Royall Spyce by Royall Lyme of Bermuda

Bought a bottle of this in the Early 80's. A wonderful spicy concoction that had a beautiful nutmeg and clove plush drydown that was perfectly "Old Style" in this time of the bold monster Masculines.
I bought it along with a YSL Tuxedo and Charvet Silk blouse which were "de Rigueur" before Armani.
A sniff of the latest yesterday, had me back at "The Hotel" Christmas party, drinking pink Champagne.
Wonderful stuff!!
04th February, 2017 (last edited: 05th February, 2017)

Royall Lyme by Royall Lyme of Bermuda

Nice inexpensive Lime Cologne with a standard Bay Masculine drydown. I believe my sample is Vintage, however this is short-lived with the Lime. Nostalgic and pleasant surely.
These days I get a better kick of Lime from Bugatti 1992
and certainly Jo Malone's Lime Basil Mandarin being EDT strength, offers a longer ride.
Still, a pleasant find if you can find it at the right price.
04th February, 2017

Prada Olfactories : Marienbad by Prada

Dreamlike in effect. This hints to an Anise(ian)twist Leather shared by Knize Ten. A paper thin sliced canvas of Vanilla(ed)Amber hums as if framed by a ringed strip of fragrant wood Hinoki. Is the inscensed breeze of burning Oud Chip the cause of this Hummmmm, I ponder.
Cola? Root Beer? Myrrh I expect. Me likem. This is one for the Queen and I.
19th December, 2016

French Line by Révillon

Brutal Bergamot, Herbal start of many Masculines of the Era. This blooms with a slightly dry Floral Bouquet, that of Jasmine, Rose and light rigidity of Narcisse. A quiet sharpness of Patchouli weaves with Quality Musks. Coconut barely noticeable adds a buttery succulence in the background. Another beautifully put together perfume from the 80's. Although it shares a Chanel finesse and similar structure of Antaeus, it has none of the skank of the one and only. Surprised that it is not talked about so much. If you see it, pick it up.I will!!
03rd December, 2016 (last edited: 07th January, 2017)

21 Club by 21 Club

From a Vintage sample? graciously supplied by Bavard.
Whoa! Brutal start like a typical 80's monster. Lavender citrus with an 80's dose of Leathery Labdanum dryness, Galbanum and an excellent plonk of Oakmoss. Good quality Oakmoss allows for a long drydown. Detect the outline of this 12 hours later. Some pick up a woodiness and I pick up a dry tobacco.
Could'nt help thinking, "This relates to something I've worn lately".
Dusita Le Sillage Blanc. 21 Club is more linear and as expected Mossy longlived. The Dusita has a cloud of Neroli, Orange Blossom and Ambrette that makes it prettier.
If you can find it, 21 Club is a winner, particularily with it's Oakmoss lusciousness.
02nd December, 2016 (last edited: 06th January, 2017)

Le Sillage Blanc by Parfums Dusita

At first a dense Canvas of Patch, Oakmoss, Ganja. Leathery feel with a good dose of Galbanum. Salty and dry Tobacco touched with Ambrette provides a sour smokiness that almost puckers.Reminiscent accord of peppery Nasturtium.
The Neroli and Orange Blossom bring what little sugar content this has and presents as a Whispering float above it all.
This may not appeal to those who expect a dose of Candy Floral.
Visually, if you change the angle of observation, what is revealed is rather large photo or picture, green and lush set against a massive flat, brightly lit, silent, white wall. Getting back to reality.
Another beautiful, luxurious gem from a Favourite House. It leans Masculine, however will attract all who are delighted with Bitter Greens, Oakmoss on a canvas of bleached wood. A lick of gorgeous blossomed savon and voluminous whiff of... well, Ganja. To boot.
Yummy!!
19th November, 2016 (last edited: 08th February, 2017)

Italian Angel by O'Driù

Pregoni Culinary Signature certainly,
Italian Angel continues a play with the Sweet vs Savoury in dance around the Vetiver. There is a flow of fascination provided by highlighting the gassy-ness
inherent in the ingredients.
The presentation is addictive, much in the same of intoxicants such as nicotine, alcohol, truffles.
Yes, all of the ingredients can be identified and also note that they are blended in such a way that they all are given equal viewing of their lethalness.
16th November, 2016 (last edited: 10th January, 2017)

Ambre Doré by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

A favourite of many men, hazard to guess!
Salty, Leathery Amber, Herbal,Spiced stuffed with a bite of Savoury, slightly bitter Geranium and Myrrh.
With Styrax and Clary Sage it reaches the same itch spot as Vintage Bel Ami.
A Masculine celebration.
Me wants some!!!
16th November, 2016 (last edited: 09th January, 2017)

Salvador Dali by Salvador Dali

"Classy, Warm,Smooky (as it is properly spelled) rich,Gorgeous,Powerful,Lush, Feminine, Romantic and Nostalgic."

aquila_2009 got it right.

This is an 80's bomb, anchored by a "Broadshouldered Moss" and typified by a Fireworks Display of Sweet Floral and a healthy plonk of billowing Musk.
Enormously Feminine and Grand.
Draws me back, nostalgically to, my head buried in the ample cleavage of my 80's girl.

Again, many thanks to BN'r Scenttastic for this sample.
16th November, 2016 (last edited: 27th November, 2016)

Loukhoum by Keiko Mecheri

It has a wonderful,refreshing, healing aura.
On application a scent of almond extract which anticipates a following of Sugar, Amber and cloy. A pleasant surprise via vegetal tilt, that for a moment releases a slight citric like that of bitter orange, followed by the Cream of a beautiful Vanilla.
Gentle, Gorgeous, Subtle and totally Lovely!
15th November, 2016 (last edited: 07th January, 2017)
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Anné Pliska by Anné Pliska

Delightful Feminine Amber. Shalimar? Not quite. This does'nt have as much going on and thankfully lacks the plasticky irritant of the Guerlain. After the Citrus dies off this remains linear (Amber and Patch), somewhat like Ambre 114, with softened volume and is clearly for the girls.
15th November, 2016

La Douceur de Siam by Parfums Dusita

A feel of Malaysian perfume oils. No wonder, a Sweet Ambery Vanilla and a Clove to counterpoint.
Plumeria and Champaca offer a Floral Exotic that floats a gorgeous (Egyptian Rose). The Violet provides a mild green airiness and slight astringent. A particularily beautiful Sandalwood creams it all up. Remarkable assembly, balance and finesse. Just as "Oud Infini", first breath is an eye roller. I want to lick my arm.
13th November, 2016 (last edited: 07th January, 2017)

Casbah by Robert Piguet

Quite similar to Heeley Cardinal. A little, softer prettier with the Nutmeg and a touch of Vegetal Iris which offers a perfume less austere and angular.
Angelica provides a slight sweetness in contrast to the dry Incense in the Heeley.
Very nice!
10th November, 2016

Cabochard by Grès

For those that find Tuberose laden Bandit a little hard to take, Cabochard provides the Leathery Bitter Green delight. The Rose, especially in Vintage is extraordinarily and beautifully set against an Oakmoss canvas.
26th October, 2016

Van Cleef & Arpels pour Homme by Van Cleef & Arpels

For the Van Cleef and Arpels pour Homme Concentree. Vintage.
Received a sample in trade and it is well..
A Brutal Bergamot and slightly bitter herbal start reminiscent of this era 70's-80's. Can scare most that have been exposed to the Marine, Ozonic, Salty Metro Male slush and Ambroxan false billowed, Nitro Musk, detergent laden muck of today.
As the Top burns off what remains is a Mentholated Carnation floral bouquet surrounded by whispers of Patchouli, Jasmine and to my nose Rose.
Cedar, quite prominent, envelopes this package and fools as a background canvas.
Fools, as further development reveals a Mossy, Leathery true base with distant and light clouds of Castoreum rising.
Take notice of the Incense the next day when a Frankincense bubble surrounds and impregnates your Cashmere sweater/jumper.
Frankincense, almost always, has my mind say "Lovely". Some accord shared with Killian Criminal in Love.
14th October, 2016 (last edited: 04th March, 2017)

Youth Dew by Estée Lauder

For me this is all built around the Clove. No matter where I am taken with the numerous notes and accords the Clove remains at the stationary centre. Wonderfully created as a Feminine Amber, however as a man, I love wearing it. Carefully of course, as it is certainly, a "Bomb".
11th October, 2016

Magie Noire by Lancôme

Was looking for a sniff of Cuir but they don't carry it
everywhere.
Took a couple of spritzes of "Black Magic"on the arm. Soft memories of Incense of the 70's. Myrrh purr purr. The latest EDT is quite enjoyable as it lacks the Low-Fat Hi Sugar content of most of the Standard Feminines on the shelf and presents a neutral Floral.
07th October, 2016 (last edited: 08th January, 2017)

Domenico Caraceni 1913 by Domenico Caraceni

Opening is out of sight! The Rose and Orange is classic.
There is an edgy accord of something that reminds me of my sister's 60's plastic dolls. Then the Geranium, well it provides a base that is old Barbershop, as has been said. Overall, it gives me the same feel, (slightly depressing) of Shalimar.
A reach for Ex Idolo 33, Dior Ambre Nuit or Dusita Oudh Infini gives me the Dose of Rose.
For many others though, this could be the Cat's meow. Oh! That Rose and Orange!
Thumbs up!
07th October, 2016 (last edited: 07th January, 2017)

A*Men / Angel Men by Thierry Mugler

The scent, that assaults my senses from beginning to end with a shotgun blast of colour. My mind quickly clips onto the Peppermint to steady as I ride atop an explosion and a cacophony of notes. It then feels like something "toxically clean" sort of along the lines Oscar Pour Lui in drydown, I am intoxicated,hungover and need to apply another spritz kinda like to continue the status. A-Men has just enough of an oversweet Amber to cloy. It makes me want to just put it away and say "I Like it". Perhaps revisit in another ten.
06th October, 2016 (last edited: 06th January, 2017)

Al Oudh by L'Artisan Parfumeur

A Vintage 2011 sample of this charmer.
Notice the capture of a Mentholated top note of Cardamom.
This stuff smells like I've eaten a Curry made for a Monarch, Cardamom Yeast Donuts continuously for days, without bathing.
Glorious stuff!!
30th September, 2016 (last edited: 07th January, 2017)

No. 18 by Chanel

The Chanel EDT Oddball. First glance seems almost futuristic.
Ginger Ale and Grappa opening. Then an abstract artist's notion. Ambrette streaks across the Universe to meet a singular note of a Floral Essence Rose perfection. Then a snap back to a notion of something Icy
and soul-less. Pure and Austere.
Very soon a fade into a memory.
Beautiful and very nearly Transcendent.
A humongous bottle of this in EDT I am search of.
So I may jump right in.
30th September, 2016 (last edited: 07th January, 2017)

Orca by House of Matriarch


It's structure is of CDR Exclusif. The effervescence Adelehydic assaults like frosting that tops a wavecrest. Be drawn into the centre of the structure, Birch is replaced with an Amber Frankincense rhythmnic waltz, moving with the Moon.
Whispers of Ambergris, the Sea, flow in and out as a dream. Bee drawn to the transcendent silence and awed.
Aromatherapy at it's best.

Orca is a wonderful, personal, cleansing perfume for me.

It certainly adds that Christi Meshell, is definitive "Eye Pastry" Full Organic Cream.
.
28th September, 2016 (last edited: 10th February, 2017)

Montana Parfum d'Homme (original) by Montana

The Brutal start has an accord that has me shy away. Something about it screams sweetish"Generic Leather". Then Whoa!!
Extraordinarily beautiful Masculine Dry Air Landscape bouquet, that has me mounted, boots in the stirrups, Gallon hat, eyes squinted, surveying my Ranch Kingdom.
28th September, 2016

Gianfranco Ferré for Man by Gianfranco Ferré

I'M drinking from a 50ml glass bottle like the one pictured above. Apparently it is the "New Vintage" issued in the early 2000's, Diana de Silva house. Mid 2000's it was moved to ITF Milan I am told, with a reform.
This is the third De Silva produced scent nosed and it has a house styling distinctively elegant.
Little to add to all the poetry of those before me, except to say, Raiders of the Lost Scent has an excellent piece on the De Silva house.
This nectar makes it very clear, the value of using High Quality Oakmoss.
One can imagine the first issue of this was Absolutely out of sight Dee-luscious!

By the way, this is the perfume of "Cleaned and Groomed"
None of that Calone driven nonsense here!
24th September, 2016 (last edited: 08th January, 2017)

Grand Soir by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

My Amber collection is anchored by the simply spiced Brulee of HDP Ambre 114. When I need a "Brutally Tenacious Baby Powder" drydown Montale Blue Amber. When I'm looking for the Ultra Luxe contemporary Jet Set it's TF Absolute. Over the top Luxe Amber celebration it's Amouage Opus VI.
Now, if I'm looking to escape the bounds of "Earthy Patchouli" to enter the "Ethereal" Heavens of Baritone Caramel.... as in Pure.

MFK Grand Soir.

As others have said. This is best suited for Cold Winter nights.
16th September, 2016 (last edited: 15th February, 2017)

Vermeil for Men by Vermeil

Oh Yes!! Although there is no indication of tobacco as a note, the collection of ingredients creates an accord of tobacco in this Masculine perfume. The opening has an astringency reminiscent of Maxim's. The sugar content is kept to a minimum by using the natural floral sweetness of Freesia, Rose, Ylang Ylang. Whispers of Fumerie Turque(pissy Currant) and Lagerfeld Cologne. Mossy, musky background creates a little earthiness and adds longevity. Reminds me, in some ways of Criminal in Love by Killian because of the Blond tobacco.
Both perfumes use "interesting" bottle shapes.
Nice quality for pocket change.
15th September, 2016 (last edited: 05th March, 2017)

Ombré Leather 16 by Tom Ford

Like all the Tom Ford Private Blend that I have sampled, this has the American Ultra Luxury connote that was started years ago by Lauren. Ombre is contemporary and suggests the American Meritocracy Global Set.
The difference is that with the Ombre, Lauder has tastefully adjusted the volume.
Still vainly arriviste and I guess that's the point. Like, this is the fragrance of my DB9 factory fresh. Before I've had the dog saliva, my sweat, perfumes staled, Pipe tobacco reminent and spilled coffee implanted.
I'll stick to my ancient Bugatti 1992, contemporary Dusita and the like.
They fit better with my vain Plebian taste.
14th September, 2016 (last edited: 24th December, 2016)