Perfume Reviews

Reviews by purecaramel

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Total Reviews: 398

Santal Complet by Fragrance Du Bois

Most of the FDB scents I have nosed, have had a gentle focus upon Fruity, Malt, vaguely Mentholated,slightly Moldy, Antiseptic aspects, in many Thai Ouds. Blending of Floral and other notes within this canvas produces an accord seamless. Presentation is an elegant soothe.
Has FDB carried this character into the realm of Sandalwood successfully?
In my opinion yes.
Lead in. Coconut Milk, fresh, it's subtle Green-ness mates with, the green-ness of Australian and rounded with the subtle green-ness of Vanilla Absolute.
Violet, so very subtle, muted and supported by the lower Floral notes of Black Pepper.
Amber provides a nutty, naturally sugared undercurrent.
Lead out. After a time, couple of hours, the freshness fades and the scent evolves to an edge to Aged, journeyed Mysore.
This, is a "Lean-in" Fragrance. What separates itself from other?
A self-effacing, Elegance.
12th November, 2018

Sandalo Nobile by Nobile 1942

Sandalo Nobile has a quiet finesse. It's a build around the soft heart of sandalwood. The varnish is a leading mark, that is gently nutted by the teeny bit of Cuminy spiciness. Measured Cedared acid to draw my mind to the Aging wood pile. The resins together with a touch of Iris offer a mild natural sugar-ed carrot-ed wood to balance.
Enchanting.
11th November, 2018

Dryad by Papillon Artisan Perfumes

Little to add to what has already been said in previous reviews save, I really don't really miss the Animalic of Vintage Greens unless I wear this brew side by side to Vol de Nuit......
How good this is?
My heart longs to this purchase, while my brain says I am satiate.
Which wins?
Most likely my heart.

Liz Moores,you are,plain Witch-ed.
10th November, 2018
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Eau Sacrée by Heeley

I really like the incense scent Cardinal, however I find it a hard wear.
Eau Sacree opens with the camphoured scent of Rosemary and then blends the Incense with a canvas of Rose scented bread. The resulting drydown accord is as delicious as Phoenicia.
Easy,elegant and excellent.
10th November, 2018

Santal Nabataea by Mona di Orio

The Star, for me, in this scent,is the absolutely stunning presentation of Myrrh. The backdrop is of pure, dry, young Sandalwood, which if you listen, layers back with smooth, white, pined varnishes, ethereal. It has me feeling, younger, lighter, wealthier, much like L'Air Du Desert Marocain.

Genderless, perhaps... however it shows as Masculine to me, as it reminds me of my Grandfather.
10th November, 2018

Eau Rose by Diptyque

First glance projects an innocent, simplicity.
The Heart contains measured notes of a Rose. That of sisters. There is a whisper of Orris rigidity. It is then, I feel the thin, layered, light acidity of Bergamot, that just, illuminates, a bouquet of Lychee Currant Jam.
Moss? Wood? A fuzzy backdrop, possibly, HQ WAC, that rarely intrudes and provides a textured canvas.

The test, for me, is to find, a story told, of the Frilly, Pink, Culotte, that is Centifolia.
Simply missing, the complex Musk, of the Human Feminine.
This, is for, the girls to wear. The boys? We'll simply follow.
04th November, 2018

Eau des Sens by Diptyque

Orange Blossom sets the chalky tone for a light aromatic planted above a sneaky WAC Floral, Laundry Musk. Bitter Orange puts a touch of, well, bitter Bergamot, to mildly contrast. Nah.
04th November, 2018

Do Son Eau de Parfum by Diptyque

A draw back to Jasmine Indol just about saves this scent from the Chalk of Orange Blossom and Creamy Tuberose Suffocation.A background of scratchy Wood cuts through some, however a quick scrub and spritz of Sarrasins fills my lungs and brings me back to the Light.
03rd November, 2018

Ummagumma by Bruno Fazzolari

Wonderful Fazzolari blending and careful use of flavouring. Certainly an easier daily wear vis a vis
the Cadavre.
Certainly little overpowering Wacky in drydown.
Just a little too wax crayon for my taste.

I've just been told I'm naughty for not pointing out the incense. Yes, background drydown whispers of Heeley Cardinal add some interest, however, I'm most taken by other Fazzolari work.
Like Vetiverissimo ooh lala!
28th October, 2018

Cuirs by Carner Barcelona

Hi Quality Aromachemical Ambered Tonka, Musk with a point to a distant coffee-ed, celery-ed Leather and support upon contemporary Sandal. Yawn.
50 ml of Arbole Arbole cures any incline to this area of study.
28th October, 2018

Burvuvu by January Scent Project

Hmm! My nose hits that Castoreum at the beginning, unlike most scents in my wardrobe, which, for the most part, carry a waft up from the base.
Wood Musk, yes, Patch and perhaps a carving of Honey.
The real interesting part is the Rose. Biebel has revealed yet another facet of the Soliflore, with a match to a Geranium's stiff citric. I know,I know, Geranium Rose.
Yes, however, watch the blending. Presentation is a near perfect, Citric, Tannic Sugar balance that is set within a Cedared Forest. Dried Fungal Lichen, slightly poisoned,adds a strange sinister.
Perhaps it's Tonkin that trails an accord that seems
exquisite-ly "Magic"
27th October, 2018

Fleur de Peaux by Diptyque

This opens with a drier Grappa than the Chanel 18. A blast of Carrot has the Iris just a little larger than life, I suppose to attract the "American" palate. Remarkable also, is the power of the Powder, which is presented, as a contained explosion.
JTD is correct in that structure is similar to, turning the page of a Picture Book to reveal a brilliant subject, with only whispers of the other notes. Gentle Musky Rose appears, opaquely, around the edge, for me.
I expect broad North American appeal as the lay upon the skin is somewhat Vintage "Tide" clean.
The drydown has telltale signs of Givaudan WAC, however, that, does not get in the way of the "Delightful" story.
Fits nicely in my wardrobe,between the 18 and Feu Secret.
27th October, 2018

Lucid Dream by Ex Idolo

Third scent presented by Matthew.
Thirty-three was introduced at a time that Rose Oud scents had run their course and the market was
saturate. It'structure in the vein of a Rose Chypre. With Mandarin the Citronella note of Rose Absolute is a accelerated and expands the development of the extraordinary floral solo.. Oud and Patchouli provide a sumptuous canvas and a touch of Oud Saffron booster provides a sparkle to satisfy the Western palate.
Ryder, not as well received was identified early by Kafkaesque as a build on Woody Amber Kephalis. For me Kephalis acts as an incisor of the dense,highly sweetened, buttered,Amber bordering cloy. The bouquet develops slowly and provides a Masculine base note.
A sliver of beautiful Incense adds a heightening and later a drop of Jasmine rot tops with a cherry.
A similar structure is presented by Lucid Dream, however the use of a rather generic Woody fixative obscures the beautiful bouquet that I know that Zhuk does produce.
I'm afraid I can only "Kafkaesque" this one.
21st October, 2018
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Oud Yusuf Organic Oud by Ensar Oud

Sweet, Floral, lightly Fruited and Whiskied. Clean background of sugared Varnishes. Refined, Elegant, lightly Camphoured Drydown. Some would say Chamomile. Lovely Vanilla-ed Wood finish.
This is a softer introduction to the beauty of Oud and can be identified in some of the highest quality Oud perfumes.
Recommended.
08th October, 2018

Santal Sultan by Ensar Oud

The joy of this blending is that it's heart centres on the Resin Varnish,mildly Cedar-ish Profile of Sandal and incense offers a light dustiness ancient.
I haven't put my nose to the Ensar Royale, however I wonder if it shows more of the Creaminess many like in Sandal.
In any case the Sultan dances most excellent with a tiny dot of ROSECO2 or Rose Otto. Heavenly!
07th October, 2018

Angelina by Henry Jacques

From Francops review I think this review was originally assigned to Ambrose.
Rose and Sandalwood. What a beautiful marriage.
There is certainly more going on here with light spicing, ambering , Florals and a touch of Cedar.
As I opened the package, the Sandalwood of history forms a transcendent Creamy cloud. I suspect a very High Quality Australian softened with lactones with just enough of a touch of Cedar to carry the nuances of Mysore. Rose emerges from the background much like Polge Chanel's. (Egoiste, No. 18, Bois des Ilses). Classical structure and a little of Polge's cleverness, to my mind this scent proves as a Superior Bois des Ilses.
For me, this goes to the top of the list of the HJ's I will be honing in on when I visit Harrod's
29th September, 2018

Femme De HJ by Henry Jacques

Opening: Iris, Clary Sage. Geranium
Heart: Rose, Carnation, Jasmine
Base: Oakmoss, Musk, Patchouli

Gorgeous, Gorgeous, Gorgeous....
Chypre, Chypre, Chypre.....
Made for women?
Phooey. I'd wear this in a heartbeat.
Low Sugar count and a Dry Clary Sage
have this count Genderless.
What a beautiful softened Rose.
The vague bitter greenness of the Geranium
and the Camphour of the Carnation speak classic
Masculine elegance. The Oakmoss and Musk create a whisper of soapiness.
29th September, 2018

Dorilene by Henry Jacques

Anyone know Diorissimo?
Well, Dorilene revolves around the same. Muguet.
With only a quick nod to the intoxication of the Fruity,Yeasty, Heady,Alcoholic, Syrup of the Dior.
Bergamot, Orange Blossom, Jasmine, Lilac, Muguet, a little Rose.
Perhaps Sandalwood as it becomes Savon-like. Did I catch a whisper of the Sea?
In any case, Very Pretty, Fresh and made for the Classically confident woman most Feminine.

29th September, 2018

Vert Gallant by Henry Jacques

Oh Yes!
This is very "Kiss my Biceps" .... Manly.

Lavender? Certainly it's there.
However the Meat and Potatoes are in the Heart.
Labdanum and Milky Sandalwood. I've been out all day tending to the sheep, building wood fences, drinking raw Ewes milk.
The Base.
Later,She, my Queen, places a Brulee before me and whispers to my ear, with hot breath. I can hear the flare of her nostrils as she draws in my Musk. She knows who I am, knows where I've been, and knows where I'll be, as she disappears to the bedroom.
This scent is a Man's Gourmand and carries a furry Mammalian animalic much like PG's L'Ombre Fauve and... well...way sexier.
29th September, 2018

Ulysse Bleu Men by Henry Jacques

Opening: Lavender, Grapefruit, Anise
Heart: Pepper notes, Pink Pepper, Clove
Trail: Oakmoss, Sandalwood, Patchouli

Patchouli Baby!
Big, Camphorous and Dry. Haylike.
Moss and Sandalwood soften the blow.
Peppers, Anise and Grapefruit heighten.
Wearing this would have me dreaming of a romp in the Hay, with a loved one.
Bringing our personal animalics to the party!
29th September, 2018

Soudain L'Hiver by Henry Jacques


I am first hit with the most gorgeous Pine, Rosemary and the Higher notes of Incense. The headiness continues with a Jasmine, Neroli sweetness, like a sprinkle of Citrus scented Sugar. The Rosemary in this is stunning. I can almost taste the Dusty, vaguely Bitter woodiness of it. This is a meal of Cool Greenness for the Masculine
29th September, 2018

Oudh Supreme by Henry Jacques

Ooh la la.

What a beautiful Oud Perfume!

Light Saffron opening. Then just enough of the Raw Layered Dehen. Barnyard,Balsam, Hay, Varnish. A Rush of superb Cedar is softened by Vanilla and Amber. Almost Savoury but for the thin layer of Caramel.
I would say an Elegant perfume for Men, however pretty enough for Feminine skin.
29th September, 2018

Fleur du Soir by Henry Jacques

This opens to a remarkable Carroty Iris Butter. Jasmine and a Clean White Musk combine to cream it up and the result is a Carrot Mouselline in a Sandalwood Timbale.

29th September, 2018

Ambre Cuir De HJ by Henry Jacques

Opening: Lavender, Orange Blossom, Geranium
Heart: Frankincense, Iris, Coriander
Trailing:Amber, Leather, Sweet Myrrh

Never mind the marketing as a Feminine. This is Genderless.
Coriander is presented quickly with a Spicy dustiness as it dances with the smokey Frankincense and vague stiff wax of Iris.
The Base and Opening float above and below the heart, however are set back on the canvas.
the Lavender, OJ Flower and Mild Camphour of the Geranium seem to act as a Spotlight from above and act perhaps with the sweet Myrrh to provide a mild soapiness of trail.
The Amber and Sweet Myrrh certainly provide a quiet base. At the end, there is a lick of the Cuir.
I can see this as being a favourite of many, for it's whispering, understated, elegance.
29th September, 2018

Yasminale No. 1 by Henry Jacques

Opening: Sweet Pea, Honeysuckle,Plum
Heart:Jasmine, Freesia, Broom
Base: Sandalwood, Iris, Vanilla

Hummmmm!
This is a Man-Killer. SweetPea, Honeysuckle and Plum my gosh, what a draw. Just enough Citric from Plum to counter the Honeysuckle Syrup and the Dancing Greeness of the Sweet Pea.
Jasmine and Freesia burst with some force and grab hold of my Heart, fill my lungs with Oxygen and provide a dreaminess of float.
Milky Sandalwood and a stiffness of Iris, anchor this Floral to the moment.
A refined, more extensively layered, Lutens Sarrasins.
Hummmmm!
29th September, 2018

Jeannice by Henry Jacques

Sandalwood and Rose. Years ago, a Persian Gentleman, who sold an array of Oils told me this. Rose and Sandalwood are like a sacred marriage. Each caresses the best from each other.
Ingredient List
Hesperidic Notes, Black Pepper, Jasmine,Iris, Rose,Sandalwood, Cedar, Oakmoss.

For me the dance is between the Rose and the Sandalwood. The other souls are standing in a circle enveloping.
This has the "feel" of Bois des Isles and it's dreaminess, however is most Feminine in it's composition.
Another one for my Queen.
29th September, 2018

Greco by Henry Jacques

I'm the Best Man for Mon Ami who has married the Love of His Life on Mykonos. I am wearing a crisp Tuxedo and a Carnation Boutonniere. I have left the party to relieve myself into a Garden of Geranium. I look up at the Bright Moon and breath in the Licorice of Ouzo and the Varnish of Retsina, Wood of the Cedar and Pine. Lemon and Rosemary waft through the scene. I look to the left and the moon, has revealed Two Young Lovers, naked and in Embrace. All is right in the world when there is Love.
I Love this perfume.
For me, it is Kouros.
29th September, 2018

No. 11 de Sacha by Henry Jacques

Masculine, perhaps.
My thoughts on this are of Gourmand that I think I would prefer on the girls.
Reminds me of the Sumptuous-ness of Chanel Coromandel with Lemon Curd scented with Neroli on top and Amber, Tonka, Benzoin based. A touch of Spice. This could be a Guerlain.
Yep this is for the Feminine. Lemon Mousse, Sablee and a dollop Whipped Cream.
29th September, 2018

Roi Sans Equipage by Henry Jacques

Crikey!!
This must be popular in the well heeled Masculine circles. A light Citric start. Tobacco, Clary Sage, Patch and Wood. A draw to the Leather. A touch of Jasmine to elegant it all up. Sound simple. Yes, simply sublime.
29th September, 2018

Onction by Henry Jacques

pparently this is made for women. I say it's made for adult humans. I suppose it has been marketed that way because the Oud and Rose are set back on the canvas. What steps forward is Wood or better Precious woods. This is the Sandalwood of my Childhood. Nutty, Creamy Butter. Cedar is perhaps Mediterranean.
It softens the blow of cool Camphourous Patchouli and the slight Pepper of Vetiver.
For me, there is an aura of dry Hay and Sweetgrass with the Narcotic of their scent.
I have to admit that this hit's my Masculine Nerve Centre and would be dynamite worn by my wife and yet would be sexy on my skin to have me dream of a romp, in the hay, all day.
For the adults, as there is an absence of unnatural sugars.
29th September, 2018