Perfume Reviews

Reviews by purecaramel

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Total Reviews: 431

Santal des Indes by Amouroud

I am initially in agreement with Gimmegreen on this arguably pleasant showergel flavoured scent.
Mysore Sandalwood?
Perhaps this Aromachemical is designed for a soap manufacturer, assembled in Asia, bottled In India, shipped to the U.S.A finally labeled Made in USA to have it meet tariff regs.
It's theme is a softer edged Guerlain Songe d'un Bois d'Ete with a finish reminiscent to that of Amouage Jubilation. A relentless one dimension of Blond Tobacco. In the end a headache inducing, heartburn aggravant that dulls my brain.
13th November, 2019

Teatro Alla Scala by Krizia

You might think this as classic feminine at the open with the Champagne-ed Aldehydes and soft Fruity puffs, however, listen to the Symphonic bouquet of Florals which breathes Genderless with it's balance of Feminine, Masculine and everything between flavours. Bergamot so very beautifully slicing with it's Citric and bitterness.
The supportive base of Musk,Civet, Oakmoss,Patch/Vetiver and Woooooh!Beeswax offers a "to die for" slightly urinous animalic.
In EDT this mates with my Masculine skin as a Regal-led Chypre.
Drydown is Mounted with Cream Savon.
Perfume Heaven folks!
13th November, 2019

Encre Noire à l'Extrême by Lalique

My first taste of this was subverted by a Vetiver Oil perfume that had clung to my shirt from the day before.
A nasty Vetiver that scented of dirty dirt rather than clean soil.
Subsequent anointment of the Lalique revealed a very pleasant, modern, clean and almost dry flavour reminscent of my sleek Elie Saab No.6 Vetiver.
If you are looking for the elegant, smokey Majesty of Chanel Sycomore EDT or the sweet soapy Standard bearer of the Guerlain, you won't find it here.
Lalique however, hits the spot, in it's Olfactory image and limited pain to the pocketbook.
14th October, 2019
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Mitsouko Parfum de Toilette by Guerlain

It would be easy to see this as an attractive issue for a modern taste.
It throws off the vague bitterness of
Oakmoss immediately. The richness in tone of the Extrait is there, however the weight remains balanced with the acid and never reaches the Guerlain cloy. A faint Galbanum-esque greenness
suggests a Rosebud to further have my sense drawn to Chypre.
Have yet to sample the EDC or EDP.

As a 60 year old Male in 2019 I pick this 1989 as a perfect scent.
It scents very appropriate with my personal Musk.
19th August, 2019 (last edited: 23rd August, 2019)

Thebes G1 by Sultan Pasha

This opens with a musical and olfactory turmoil that relates to the vague repel of Peau d'Espagne. Yes a waxy promise of Iris powder.
Remarkable though is the quick subside of The Adelehydic assault and the emergence of a dry Rose layered upon Savon tonally brightened by Citric bittered Bergamot. For a moment notice the Lead of Jasmine indolic of Petroleum lies almost as if upon the surface.Labdanum and smoky Vetiver are wrapped in an animalic sweet.
Ancient and Magically simple. Leather.
06th August, 2019

Equilibre by Sultan Pasha

Opening is Stinky,Cheesy,Hindi Oud set up against a Sour Citrus bouquet that immediately has me feeling "Heavy Leather" This same bouquet immediately lays bare the most ethereal incense of the wood.
The Oud funk sets back, the wood remains, blends with softness of Sandal. Light Benzoined honey and golden canvas.
I have the sense the heart as abstract floral.
A smoulder, almost smoke drifts through partnered with a minted Vetiver
As with most SP attars I have tasted a rather short intensity that mixes with my own musk to provide a gentle golden glow attractive.
05th August, 2019

Encens Chypre by Sultan Pasha

I'll let others illuminate the simple magic of this.
Chypre yes.
It's the warm animalic and the draw of Clary Sage that have me swooning. Iris blending and leading Incense delivers a dreamy elegance.
Presque Parfait. Porr mwah.
04th August, 2019

Tabac Grande by Sultan Pasha

A Tonka Absolute blanketing canvas has this reminiscent of Areej and Bortkinoff creations.
It is essential to apply this to the skin as the animalics blend so beautifully to my corpus.
Think opening a humidor that has been lined with an ancient Varnished Oud and Salmonid fed Cedar. Notice the gentle smoking of smoldered Kopi Luwak. A sweet aura that implies richness sans cloy.
Dry down is a natural cleansing breeze from the Sea.
Then I realize that I have been drawn in by the balance between Immortelle and Tonka which comforts me in it's impression of perfect grooming.
28th July, 2019

Jardin de Borneo Gardenia by Sultan Pasha

Beautiful White Floral that shows best on Masculine Skin with it's stripe of Galbanum and Lavender Sandal softness, while Moonlit Reverie is a Grape Bubblegum Musky White Floral that reminds me of the pleasant Laundry Detergent of the 60's having it flatter the Feminine body.
28th July, 2019

Ocean of flowers by Sultan Pasha

Tuberose Absolute has an ability to raise my Cortisol levels quickly. Fight or Flight. The feeling is that
"Something is about to consume me". When it is paired with Orange Blossom and/or Neroli, it further has me feeling that I'm being waterboarded with a saturated old woollen sock.
With Ocean Flowers, SP has carefully placed a big whack of Oxygen rich Jasmine which acts to neuter the scary bits of Tuberose and have it resting with a purrr.
What remains is a landscape that highlights the glorious marriage of Centifolia and Sandal. Anyone who has scented the effect of Ambergris paired to Sandal will know the Magical accord that is then created.
The second before meeting of pistil and stamen.

The Citrus of Gardenia and Rose are introduced to Patchouli and produce a whisper of a Sheepra Savon.

On my Male skin lasting power is but a Singular moment.
On my Feminine partner's skin it's lasting power seems as, perhaps, waves in an Ocean.

I would say that overall, this a Feminine scent that is Gender Friendly.
22nd July, 2019

Jicky Eau de Toilette by Guerlain

Overall Jicky in this 1999 strength is pleasant as Tuberose does not overpower. It is a sweet Floral Bouquet that is rather balanced in texture with a vague honeyed pissy accord. It remains rather tame long enough to have me lose focus until it wafts up with a Jasmine rot supported by a synthetic Funky Civet and my human musk. It's easy to feel as if I'm catching a whiff of soiled panties.
Probably is suited better to mating with Feminine Musk.
Things may be different with a Vintage Extrait.
21st July, 2019 (last edited: 22nd July, 2019)

Vetiver Blanc by Sultan Pasha

For those who are enamoured of Tuberose, those who need neroli and/or orange blossom to pair will be disappointed. This dominates the opening and had me gasping. A mentholated herbal gas, I suspect Vetiver provides a pleasant sliver of
Counterpoint to the creamy gag of the Tuberose. Very quickly this steps back to allow a bloom of gorgeous Gardenia to come forth. For me this gem produces a buttery cloak similar to Tuberose,however carries more of an oxygen gas similar to Jasmine and a slight green bitterness, exotic citrus elegance the Tuberose lacks.
A natural Floral Musk based this and has it dry down like a Gardenia Absolute
Not really my cup of tea, however very nicely balanced.
I sampled this using a wooden toothpick. Later using the pick for tooth a very pleasant Jasmine layered met my palate.
21st July, 2019

Le Rayon Vert by Sultan Pasha

I think I am generally drawn to scents that blend in decay to a basic strength of healthy human skin, which provides an attractive environmental canvas for odor causing bacteria.
Soapy decaying scents tend to be attractive to my nose versus bleaching scents which tend to blanche and confuse my nose. I remember very clearly the disappointment I met with a girlfriend who had embraced the use of Feminine Hygiene Spay. Which by the way IMO proves effective as a neuturing agent across the Spectrum Gender. Much the same as Napalm and Dior Sauvage.
Le Rayon Vert falls into the realm of the Soapy.
Scents beautifully to the skin of both my partner and myself, with both fertility and virility.
Those searching for the Vert in this scent will find it's elegant vegetal bitterness much the same as Vol de Nuit sans the Golden Honeyed Citric of the Guerlain. My nose is forced to draw upon the natural sugars of the Florals,Resins to Counterpoint.
This serves to highlight the most attractive and flattering aspects of the Rose and Geranium in particular and the other Florals generally.
Tuberose is settled to the background pairing with Ambergris to both expand and fix Depth and Volume.
Castoreum envelopes with a Vanilla-ed Animalic and Orchid-like Exotic. It also contributes a Leather Sheepra quality not unlike that of Bandit replacing the brutality with a rather Gentle, Awesome, Force.
An Eloquently Masterful Assembly of Ingredient that can quietly flatter a Human Body and enjoin it to Nature. If not the durability of Silk at least a taste of it's beauty.
15th July, 2019
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Mitsouko Eau de Toilette by Guerlain

1985 EDT.
Where the Extrait, on my Male skin presents a deep, complex, layered slow developing, smouldering heap of almost overripe Peach and Oakmoss halo
Feminine.
This EDT,on my Male skin, projects the same closer to that of an Eau de Parfum with faster development and resulting bubble. It also changes, unlike the Extrait, markedly, with the blending with my Masculine Musk.
This is reminiscent of the pattern presented to my snout by that of Jubilation 25 Extrait and Eau de Parfum.
That being said, I am more likely to reach for Heritage with it's marketing, Vol de Nuit with it's Galbanum edge and well Jubilation 25 with it's Tarragon, Incense and Cumin Incise.
Nevertheless, an absolutely gorgeous scent, with it's Chypre DNA largely intact.
On to the somewhat rare and dear Parfum de Toilette Vintage.
08th July, 2019

Oud Douce Amère by Sultan Pasha

Yes, the whisper of Hindi and the cleansing following Layers of Varnish. The background is of the poison created by Leather tanning which in turn has the character of Peau d'Espagne Masculine. Anise plays a large part in sealing ala Knize Ten and leading bitterness of Frankincense ala Memoir Man.
Uh Yuh Masculine Leather.
But wait. Not so quick. What's that Floral Sweetness LOV Feminine Strength central.
Then again the ethereal aspects of Cedar draw the memory cells back to something Masculine.
In contrast to Cuir Mauresque which uses similar balance to arrive to the same centre using a beginning power of Honeyed Floral very slightly cosmetic.
As an aside this scent perfumes initially different on both my wife and myself, however in the end the central character of completeness is the same. Human wholeness.
The beauty of Oud Amere is, that sense I am brought to quicker.
I'm falling in Love with the story this scent presents to me.
I encourage all that hold some interest in Leather scents, taste this creation to recalibrate your tastes.
08th July, 2019

Nuit Persane by Sultan Pasha

Rare, is captured, the full depth,layered sexiness of
Yellow Red Saffron. I expect that Ambergris plays a part in producing that dreamy cloud.
Incense carries this to the Transcendent.
Soft, Aristocratic Rose Petals caress the body.
Counterpoint is provided by perhaps a fresh Green Sandal and Plant Tobacco vs Iodine-ic.
Grounding is presented by an Accord of Mixed Spice.
This is all reminiscent of entering a Persian Arts and Crafts shop as a child and meeting the Kaleidoscope of Heat in my Loins.
An eye-roller this.
Trails off as Fumerie Turque.
Highly subjective. Of Course.
07th July, 2019

Mitsouko Extrait by Guerlain

From reviews by others I have been unconsciously avoiding this scent as I have been frightened to possibly be knocked off of what has been my vision of what a Rose Sheepra is.
If one follows the line of Bergamot, Patchouli and a healthy dose of Moss.
(At least with a 70's Extrait) it is difficult not to be dazzled by it's structure. The Rose, as expected, is presented as a a Peachy hue. There is a quality of "Grand Old Girl" in the Extrait, which may dissuade most young people from tasting, however Old Girls of any Gender could well use this as a Standard.
Be warned though, it doesn't quite carry the same Unisex Quality of Vol de Nuit.
While I could wear Vol de Nuit 24/7/365, I have only enough of a Queen in me to wear this occasionally on Weekends.
Recommended as a try by everyone at least once in their Perfumed Life.
05th July, 2019

Carnival d'Havana by Sultan Pasha

I found an overall note of deeply caramelized coffee-ed sugar used by PG Amoussai and Fazzolari Cadavre Exquis.
The Carnival heart is Exotic White Floral gently coaxed to show it's sumptuous-ness sans gaseous gag. To further slice any cloy a note of Vine ripened Spiced Acid and Sugar of Mango.
Points of Frankincense lift this scent and offer an ethereal trailing accord.
The base woods and musk's lend a rather clean almost dry finish.
It's whole make up strikes me as masterful presentation.
01st July, 2019

Irisoir by Sultan Pasha

I guess I can't expect to like all the samples( of which there are 30 )received of SSP Attars. This scent dries down to an accord of Ceremonial Sweetgrass, which for some is sublime and sacred. Particularly when burned for it's ceremonial. Reaction to my skin produces a reedy, whiney overpowering rather monotone
melody.
I'm much more comfortable with the decay of resins, Grandflorums, Citrus on my skin.
28th June, 2019

Al Hareem by Sultan Pasha

Rose Ouds can become same old particularly if a sharp rubber synthetic leads.
AH leads with a balanced melange of animalic, rich wood breath of saffron.
The sense of timing and emphasis of the heart is the magical marriage of Sandal and Rose. This marriage highlights the sweet almost fruit top note of the Rose.
I identify Ambergris as a leavener that adds a buoyancy, volume that leads to an accord and perfume so exquisitely elegant. High Art.
23rd June, 2019

Ensar Rose by Sultan Pasha

We have here a beautifully orchestrated soft Sandalwood Rose marriage buffed with a civet/ambergris muskiness. It's Rose is honeyed and whispers it's gentle budding. This scent's beauty is in it's simple balanced canvas. I identify the canvas as a marriage that holds close to the Patou Feminine Ma Liberte.
In comparison SP JURIAH follows the course of appealing to contemporary tastes with a nicely rude Oud Rose.
Both hold as enjoyable wears with elegant rather than obtrusive skank.
My personal nod goes to the Ensar Rose.
22nd June, 2019

Aurum d'Angkhor by Sultan Pasha

This is well reviewed for very good reason.
It's accord draws across my mind with a similar titillation of pleasure to the resonance produced by the bow across the strings of a cello.
I believe it bears a resemblance to the carry off of Jasmine, Rose, Patchouli Lapidus Pour Homme sublime tune.
The cast of first-rate ingredient fill out the the canvas to vivid,textured
herbal gaseous expanses. Some references to the vetiver games of Pregoni.
It is all heavily mounted with Sandal, Ambergris butter rendering the whole luxuriously succulent.
18th June, 2019

Koh-i-Noor by Areej le Doré

Zephyr has nailed the extraordinary aspects of this Beautiful thing.
The Areej sweet, tart Lemon and Musk is trademark.
Jasmine Sambac Indol Benzoined sweetness, tames the wall of thick buttery Tuberose Indol that can for me suffocate.
The Lemon works to separate layers of Tuberose Heavy cream rot, to have it's Indol merely act as a mild exotic seasoning.
In this way, this scent holds some similarity to Aftel Cepes and Tuberose, for me.
High quality and number of ingredient provides for a denseness of texture and enveloping Symphonic.
It presents initially as a BIG feminine, however the absence of frilly Floral, plants it squarely in the Genderless.
The Animalic, nicely, rubs to the side of a Yummy ripeness.
I like, most scents Areej I have tasted.
Koh-i-Noor. I'm Sexy in Love.
07th June, 2019

Black Dianthus by Il Profumo

A lot more going on with this than the pyramid skeleton
suggested.
Applied to the skin is as a Soapy, Scented Smothering Talc. Dry, surely, and yet at same, a narcotic film of unctuous fruit adds sugared body plumpness, similar to memories of Frederiksdal.
Cloy is defeated by a Herbal, Dandelion Milk, Chlorophyll Green, Bitterness together with a vague Camphour.
It's trailing accord, is of Exotic Orchid.
A scent, only, for those, who have experienced the hallucinations of Atropine.
02nd June, 2019

Tai Winds by Avon

70's dross.
Misuse of Tonka and Musk. Similar in orchestration to Faberge's Brut. Out of balance and for that matter, good taste. I suppose that's the point.
This presents an Ancient equivalent to the over-use of Woody Amber Aromachemical compounds of today.

A year later Paco Rabanne comes out to save the Fougere from a mediocrity that Tai Winds, Brut etc, present.

For comparison, Fougere Royale, arguably, presents a model for clean, fine orchestration, balance to Lavender, Citrus, Tonka and proves elegant with a whisper of Musky Floral Orchid.
In the case of those who choose to cry pomme et l'orange I'd say that both Faberge and Avon prove excellent with Turbo and Leathers respectively.

These days, there appears to be a Tonka Absolute that Indies like Areej le Dore, Hiram Green and others are using to anchor their Aromatics elegantly. In the case of AlD to blend with Musks. With Hiram Green Arbole Arbole provides a magical, beautiful and eloquent study of Tonka.

I'd say, to both of them, Faberge et "Avon Calling", stay away from the simple Fougere and turn down the volume of your coumarou.
It's thinning our blood and lowering our Sperm Count.

my Subjective view.
27th March, 2019

Wild Country by Avon

Love this fougere from beginning to end. At it's Vintage basic, it follows the standard Citrus Lavender Tonka riff. The Aromatics/Florals set a melody in the Heart that doesn't really relate to the name. The powder competes with that of Habit Rouge. Is that Oakmoss that's generating a mild Animalic?
What a joy, to be able to nose journey, without disturbance from Caramelized Woody Aroma Chemical Compound, heavy doses of Ambroxin and the Calonic.
The Vanilla-ed Oakmoss and Amber seems to throw off a Honeyed Piss note, like that I find attractive, in Balenciaga HH Club, a Sheep's Ra, Boss No.1, a Fooshaear.
Mossy Musk 8 Hours and counting for 60's Vintage.
23rd March, 2019 (last edited: 24th March, 2019)

Windjammer by Avon

Opens with an astringent Citrus that overwhelms the yucky Tonka-ed Musk. Scents cheap,thrown together Barbershop. Stomach churning for me.
Almost scrubbed. Glad I didn't. Drydown is exquisitely Mossed and Wooded. Melts into my Masculine skin. The mix with Male Hormone produces an accord that has me wanting to cuddle myself. This must be Vintage.
20th March, 2019

Clint by Avon

First of all,this, is a Big hit for me.
That said the opening Adelehydes may please those who remember the Brutal opening of Aramis Vintage. It quickly dies down to Heart of Clary Sage (a fave of mine) and a Floral Woody Dry Patched Leather reminscent to the Aigner No.1 and even whispers of the sweeter, Vaunted Bel Ami et greener, Cabochard. Another joy is the Mossy, Vetiver and Do I feel a touch Labdanum? base , which carries the gently into about four hours of gentlemanly leathered, skin scent. Bliss.
I am one of those who have respect for Aramis and will reach for the Vintage Cabochard, Clint, first.
17th March, 2019

Blend 7 by Avon

Opening is a startle as Anise and green catches. The bloom of rather perfumey Jasmine, LOV oomph as simile to that of Lauder for Men. Very pleasant Ambered Smoky Tobacco Tonka base lasts nicely on drydown. The Anise drifts in/out for a bit and had me feeling a little Knize Ten leather-ness. Fades in a couple of hours, so it invites another spritz.
Overall a beautiful composition. With timing, the Designer competition were gearing up with the likes of Paco Rabanne PH,Givenchy Gentleman etc, so it probably was overlooked by most. Shame.
17th March, 2019

Acqua di Parma Profumo by Acqua di Parma

The Vintage, is stunning, in regards to it's complex symphonic layering of Florals ala Patou 1000 Vintage. What LMVH has done, quite nicely, is to recreate this piece upon a base Calonic. This has lightened it's glow and extended it's life. It now competes with Creed's Jardin d'Almafi.
It does, however,sadly, have it melding into the Acqua di Parma Sea of Flankers. I project that it will quietly, disappear from the Brigade.
It can be a nice replacement for the growling Fruitchouli of Amouage Jubilation 25. My wife does wear that in Winter (to please me mostly).
I can wear the Amouage year round(and do)because I'm drawn to the Animalic.
A search for the Vintage will present you with a "Grand Perfume", indeed.
13th March, 2019