Perfume Reviews

Reviews by purecaramel

Total Reviews: 271

Tabac Blond by Caron

Caron Tabac Blond Eau De Cologne

With all the wonderful praises of the EDP and Parfum I expected to be wow-ed by this. I have been, however it is in quiet contemplation of the structure, balance and non linear composition.
This opens with a splash of the Peppery Aspect of Carnation. Camphour of the same is subdued. Citric or Acid are minimal. Sugar, of which there is a careful balance, is counterpointed by a tannin, perhaps the Lime Blossom.
The scent takes on the Leather aspect of comparable perfumes,in my memory and direct comparison, to first Shalimar without the Guerlain-ade,Habit Rouge without the Incense,the Vibrant Contemporary lipstick of Cuir Cannage and the Godet Cuir de Russie with a little oomph and sexiness.
A petroleum lilt is provided which I would guess would be Jasmine.
Iris is blended delicately and provides(for me) a gentle rigidity beautiful and I suspect a waxiness in background, which then blends with Vanilla to provide a semi-dry Talc in drying. I feel the light breeze of Ambergris and volume-nizing of the Oakmoss.
In spite of the Eau strength, I have, a three hour longevity, with a beautiful dry Tobacco nuanced accord and non-stuffy powder.
Although I pick up no smokiness in the scent proper, I played, by applying a light spray of a very smokey, linear Contemporary scent, to one of my girly's Leather jackets,(I'll pay for that later)sniffed and was brought back to moments of High School 70's and friends, who were girls.
At 15, as like most,I a boy, viewed girls, largely from a position clouded by sexual desire.
A girl wearing the Caron, smoking heavily, wearing glossy Lipstick and perhaps a Leather Jacket, the Caron would have added an intoxicating, "Womanly" scent to the mix. That would have had me... tormented.
17th March, 2018 (last edited: 18th March, 2018)

Pulp by Byredo

This opens as a vine ripened Sindhri, juicy, sweet and balanced citric. Cardamom and Current counter with a spicy jammy bouquet.
For me there are whispers of a magical Fir Forest in note.
Tropical Floral drifts down through it all and proves to a quite sophisticated presentation and sillage.
Very finely crafted to show as a semi-gourmand.
It's accord is first-rate.
12th March, 2018

Eiderantler by January Scent Project

Eiderantler, I find difficult to wear. It opens with an accord similar to Fortes Fortuna Luvat VOTM (A very strange and interesting scent).
It then veers off the road and goes the way of Clothing Detergent Musk and Scratchy Bar soap from a 60's High School Lavatory. Drydown is to an uninteresting wood.
Not to my taste, however many may like the nostalgia and youngsters may find it comforting.
I don't often write neutral or negative reviews, however, in this case I have found Biebel's other offerings, extraordinarily, beautiful, innovative and more, Artisan delights.
I think this perfumer needs to be observed.
11th March, 2018
Advertisement — Reviews continue below

Smolderose by January Scent Project

A beautiful Rose and an unusual and novel way presenting it. In structure it is reminiscent of Dusita Oud Infini using the Bouquet of the Sea, rather than the Deer Musk. This has an effect of having the Rose as a Star rather than the Star and from a background of animalic.
Agarwood presents itself much the way of
Heeley's Agarwoud.
Is it the Cade and Labdanum working together to produce a gentle Smokey, Petrol, Leathery tilt?
Bergamot and Frankincense provide an acidic, slicing Pepper to counter to the sugars.
Not your average Rose Oud.

Another beautiful and stunning, John Biebel Masterpiece.
10th March, 2018

Vaporocindro by January Scent Project

Lilac and Apple opens with a bloom, kinda like Baruti's Melkmeisje. I next expected either a green fir and/or a move to sweetened Amber. Nope. I suppose that the sliver of Narcisse is what bends this to a leathery vegetalic accord. Remarkable, is, a very true, backdrop of Turmeric with it's bouquet of dusty Dryness, that leads my nose to a Bone parched and Aromatic Oud. An offer of buttery Sandal smooths the palate. Cumin? Black Pepper? Ambergris?
Perhaps a touch,to just mildly season. It dries down to a gentle, spicy, contemplative Wood.
There is such a wonderful blending, to create an unique overall accord, so very interesting, balanced, and pleasing, to my palate.
10th March, 2018

Leather by Avon

My bottle is The "Gentleman's Choice" Avon Leather in a rather sedate, (by Avon Kitschy Standards) Square block, Islamic decorated,Faux crystal, Whiskey decanter bottle. Gentle Manly Masculine.
I would say the ZC has pretty much hit all the corners of this box.
This opens with a big, round, blast of Moss and Citrus. At first with a base not unlike that of the Styrax, Birch bloom in Vintage Bel Ami. Next is a wonderful blast of Lipstick, Vaguely Anisic, close to Cuir Cannage and Knize Ten. It collapses pretty quickly to a quiet, pleasantly Gentleman's. Moss and Citrus Savon.
08th March, 2018

Le Baiser du Dragon by Cartier

The EDT.
Opening is rather heady, boozy. My first feeling was Hot Buttered Rum. As the bite of that fades, an almond butter, lightly mixed with sugared and Ambered Benzoin adds rich base.
A Vetiver Patch Tea counters the sugars with its tannin.
All the while the Neroli provides a very pleasant slightly Citric acid to draw my sensors to an Antique Dried Rose. Cedar seems a backdrop until the end and forms a pleasant, vaguely woody dry down with Amaretto finish. Thankfully done with the absence of Tonka. Perhaps this was designed for the girls, however it scents beautifully to my masculine skin. Careful with the dosing though as Galaxolide or whatever musk is used can induce a cough.
I expect that the EDP, may just be a teensy bit rich for me too wear, however this EDT is quietly blended as a unisex and carries a vaguely Aristocratic Accord. Interesting name, however, its connection to the scent seems far cerebral and counter to most common visioning.
07th March, 2018 (last edited: 14th March, 2018)

Feu Secret by Bruno Fazzolari

This, is, a Fazzolari treasure, that competes
with the beauty of Au Dela Narcisse for top spot in my Wardrobe.
This time the play is with Orris.
The Star.
The other ingredients Turmeric. Pink Pepper and Eucalyptus dance around and take turns planting and taking nibbly kisses upon Carroty Accord, breaking it down slowly and drawing the attention to a halo of Cedar. Birch Tar seems subdued until I begin recognizing an incense-like accord. Yes, perhaps Birch Tar. Only a light seasoning.

Full bottle for me!
07th March, 2018 (last edited: 08th March, 2018)

Selperniku by January Scent Project

Yes! Opening is very interesting. My first impression is of the fragrance and bouquet of the fruit of Pear, just slightly green and very fresh. The Cardamom spices and Fruity Apricot voluminizes. The opening then turns to the Shade of Apricot and it's Leather. Smooths to a buttery texture with a base to a Coconut oil, Lactonic Sandal. The Tobacco comes to me as a Salty Compound of Sweetgrass (Tobacco). This colour, in the landscape, is reminiscent of a scent from MikMoi called "Journey". Mikmoi explores the subject of single tone. Selperniku builds and explores with splashes of many tonal colours, however shares similar modern, transparent esthetic. I would classify this scent as "Artisan" in composition and painted by a perfumer with a clear understanding of Classical Art. Absolutely delightful, this scent. Clearly accessible in asking price.
Would I wear this? Oh Yes, definitely. Selperniku, is, for me, Composition classical and Modern, Sleek accords, beautifully balanced and a knowing, Art.
Immortelle, a note I have often found difficult to wear, has been incorporated with a buttery texture and tone reminiscent of Fazzolari's Cadavre Exquis. Very agreeable.
04th March, 2018 (last edited: 05th March, 2018)

Cuir de Russie Eau de Parfum by Chanel

The EDP scents beautifully on my Girl in spite of the fact she hasn't really cottoned to the Cuir of any age.
She's a Bois des Ilses and No.5 woman.
I think that the EDP, properly,caters to the current Feminine sensibility.
The EDP scents a little rounded and curvy on my Masculine skin.
The EDT tastes of a little of boot Polish and scents yummy on me,in spite of the Adelhydes and Florals.
The 2015 Parfum is a little smokier, richer, holds closer to the skin on me and of course lasts much longer.
The Vintage Parfum....well, it's just perfectly Grand, Romanov,Romantic....on anyone.
13th February, 2018 (last edited: 15th February, 2018)

Égoïste Cologne Concentrée by Chanel

It's easy to see the attraction of this Bois Noir/Egoiste flanker in it's discontinuation. The bump of Vanilla, Sucrose,Cinnamon paired with the Rosewood Sandal melange, impresses with it's vaguely brash dosing.
It provided a Chanel Masculine to counter Mugler's Feminine Angel. It is artful, however in the end a little too....Bazooka Bubblegum, for my taste.
27th January, 2018

Coromandel Eau de Parfum by Chanel

I like Bavard's "This is the best Coromandel EDT knockoff ever" LOL!!
Honestly, I have to agree.

Coromandel as a scent, I think, will prove to be a Chanel Classic.
As JTD says, it hits most of the spots to be a "Crowdpleaser"
19th January, 2018

Jazz Prestige by Yves Saint Laurent

Opens with a cacophony of notes and fruity sweetness that had me wince. Like many from the 80's era a bit overwhelming in the opening, kind of like players tuning their instruments with some discord.
Then the hook of Astringent(Bergamot)counters and mates with the Anise, Caraway, Ginger, now I'm finding the groove. A base of Oakmoss, Patch and Sandalwood provides a Landscape for a Geranium, Carnation and rose mix almost reminiscent to Equipage. I am a sucker for the Amber with a bit of Benzoin folded in. The Fir makes a showing and I finally recognize the Lavender and a sprinkle of Cinnamon. The freshness people talk about is related to the Mint and offers a nod to very comforting coolness to the mix.

All this goodness in a 1.7 oz unopened cellophane untouched and a YSL sticker.

29.99 CAD delivered yah!!
14th December, 2017 (last edited: 10th March, 2018)
Advertisement — Reviews continue below

Y by Yves Saint Laurent

1978 Extrait?

This goes on oily and has the skin glisten.

This is a BIG, Feminine Chypre. A plethora of Floral notes.
A blast of Galbanum and Fine Quality Citrus pumps into a dramatic Aldehydic Cloud opening. A powerful Bouquet is sweetened by Honey and countered with the slight acidity of Peach.
Support is provided by an extraordinary composition of Amber,Patch and Civet folded into Golden Benzoin.
Oakmoss creams it with a slight savoury and billow which dimensionalizes this into the dramatic. Powdery goodness in the end.
I am sure that Armani looked back at this while developing his first Feminine.
In Y's brush strokes I can see Yves Saint Laurent signature in the later 1971 Rive Gauche.
Recommended in Vintage, surely.
11th December, 2017

Diorissimo by Christian Dior

80's Vintage Extrait

Crikey! A big wallop of Muguet. Similar breathtaking, send your head spinning, burst of Yeasty Floral as Lutens Purple Sarrasins. It differs in that Civet grabs the nose hairs and folds the path into a magical land, through of the Month of May.
Galbanum draws one into the fresh Green-ness. Those little White flowers, set against the bright lushness, have me feeling, I am being devoured.
Nostalgic whispers of my Maternal Grandmother, who loved all of the Lily family, particularly the Muguet.
She was Viking fierce with her love and although I appreciated her fragrant sillage, I was a little frightened of her, as a youngster.
With Diorisimmo, one needs to be comfortable with a little of the LOV Progesteronic Feminine strength.
Being an extrait, a half an hour in and I am captivated by the slightly soapy, billowing halo that surrounds my corpus. Here, I can recognize the Roudnitska Symphonic orchestration. Diorisimmo treats the LOV with the respect that it deserves.
For myself, I would tend to take my Muguet, in the likes of it's note in Eucris etc.
This scent is made for Women, who are most Feminine and carry a core of burning fierceness, within an exterior, slightly cool.
Recommended in 80's Vintage, surely.
30th November, 2017

Givenchy Gentleman (new) by Givenchy

This was on my testlist. Gentlemen I wore in the 70's and it was simply awesome. If you go here

entry 130.

A respected Reviewer offers hilarious review
how it compares.

Now on my never try list.
23rd November, 2017 (last edited: 24th November, 2017)

Eau du Sud by Annick Goutal

Dirty, Dirty Pour Monsieur. This scents vaguely of, day old scalp, underneath a bouquet of Citrus brightness anchored in an Oakmoss Savon.
Pour Monsieur is for the Formal. This is for the licentious after Party.
23rd November, 2017

1000 by Jean Patou

85 Vintage
This is a perfume of real beauty. A big puff of Civet to warm the nostrils. A slap of something of heat maybe Eucalyptus and the Geranium. A burst of Florals, Rose and Jasmine,Galbanum somehow seem etched and measured with unusual precision. While this bouquet is dancing, notice the puff of Sandol, not predominent, however it is clearly High Quality. A whisper of Violet delights my senses. Orris folds into the package, never obtrusive, just there. You'll feel a nod to present day CDR leather in the drydown. Very much about the Blending and Paint Strokes which are to be seen in Pour Homme and Pour Homme Prive.
Isn't Oakmoss wonderful, particularly when used by a master. Beautiful how it scents luxurious to the end and then some.
Probably a little ornate for daily wear, however, like the Masculines this needs to be considered.
I am a guy, I'd wear it, because it is so very, perfectly presented.
23rd November, 2017

La Nuit by Paco Rabanne

Darvant pretty much explains the story of this beauty. It's structure is classical. I recognize the Civet, Oakmoss supported Honey Bouquet expanding, tarted by the Citrus.
The Canvas is dense and a Savon of Rose Chypre. Honeyed Leather indeed. Perhaps because of the Basil Anisic in this, I find ever so slightly more, wearable as a Male,than the "Shocking". It carries the Civet-Oakmoss laden start billowing and dries to almost a dirtier Pour Monsieur.
Then again, my wife would wear this, most nobly, as it is Reminiscent of it's cousins Paloma Picasso and Armani.
18th November, 2017 (last edited: 19th November, 2017)

Shocking by Elsa Schiaparelli

50's or 60's sample I am told.
Full blast of Adelehydic Acetone start, like experiencing No.5 first time in the 70's. For me the Civet is folded into the Bouquet Floral, Aromatics and presents in the background a gentle nod to the Leather of Peau d'Espagne. In front is a wonderful musky Laundry soap buoyed by the Oakmoss and Bergamot.
I get a pulses of Honey Animalic, on occasion, that tinges to pissy, however draws sensuously, to the Feminine. Funny, that not many people note, the Ambergris Sea (Salty Oysterlike)breeze that brings the Perfume to some buoyancy sans the scratchiness of Synthetic. There is just enough Patchouli to make this Genderless.
Really though, this is the kind of perfume, that on Feminine skin, melds with the natural Muskiness and has me feeling as a Stallion. My wife will be testing this! Yummy!
16th November, 2017 (last edited: 07th February, 2018)

Oland by Avon

Side by side with the excellent 1975 Etienne Aigner this scent may seem Old Fashioned, however the structure, colour and statement is similar enough to have it share a relationship. Perhaps Olander is an older brother who was farmed out to the country in his youth lacking some little bit of Sophistication of the younger.
The Aigner is slicker,rounded and carries a richer more complex drydown and polish. A scent of the well-heeled Leather set City set.
Oland is well worth a try, as it trades rather inexpensively.

The Aigner is almost extinct.
15th November, 2017

1776 Russian Leather by Elsha

For me, this opened with a Guerlain-esque Bergamot pithyness sweetened like my Habit Rouge. A Plasticky Knize Ten-like leather in the background and mild spice and incense in the centre. Light on the Oakmoss.

Light, pleasant Leather with nods to Guerlain Shalimar and Habit Rouge.

I could wear it, however it smells very much sexier on my Girl.

Another couple of spritzes for a day and I really like it on my Masculine skin. It wears better than Cuir Cannage which I find a bit Lipsticky and Habit Rouge which I
find a bit to powdery.
30th October, 2017 (last edited: 04th February, 2018)

Narciso Rodriguez for Her by Narciso Rodriguez

This scents like my Grandmother's sheets. They were laundered in a 60's floral detergent. Hung dry in the clean country air. Folded and placed in a Cedar chest.
Now they smelled strongly of Cedar and the Floral was faint in the background.

This is opposite, Floral is in your face and Cedar in the background. Ultimately this is Woody Aroma Chemical (WAC)Saccharine.
It gets a thumbs up because it reminds me of my Gran.
Don't know that I would wear it or have my wife wear it though.
26th October, 2017

Bois du Portugal by Creed

This is all that 90% of the Reviews here say of it.
This was built for Old Guys (60)like me. A little less stuffy than Guerlain Heritage, however it is same era between late 80's early 90's. Masculine elegance with a soul,for the over 40's. Better than most of the high end stuff from Tom Ford. I may have to find a draw of this. Yummy!
25th October, 2017

Borneo 1834 by Serge Lutens

A Patchouli between Coromandel and PG L'Ombre Fauve with a Fumerie Turque smokiness.
The overall feel has me much like FT feeling sepia non bright tone. Has the Chocolate of Coromandel and none of the Pastry. Dry Tobacco with a background of vague sweetness in the canvas. It captures a whisper of the animalic lactose sweatiness of L'Ombre Fauve with a slightly more complex finish. The glittery gold bits of Coromandel are absent ,however the Cacao puts this into the Gourmand. A fave of the Lutens for me, however the the other two fulfill my needs for this type of Patchouli.
20th October, 2017 (last edited: 21st October, 2017)

Monsieur / Monsieur Bouquet by Henry Jacques

Everything that Francop says. I'll add that the hint of Cinnamon offers a nod to the spice of the Masculine body.
The first rate ingredients and composition
push this into a glimpse of the Art of scent.
15th October, 2017

Heritage Eau de Parfum by Guerlain

The 90's Vintage EDP. Now you're talking. Think holding closer to the skin, intimate, a halo around the whole of you. Golden oil, slightly darker, vaguely dusty.
Like them all, bigtime, however the 90's Vintage EDP and EDT are so very Full Fat

The current opens brighter, carries close to the Vintage in the Heart. Drydown reveals the loss of butter in Oakmoss and Sandalwood.
The Pyramid above is nonsense. There is certainly more going on in the Vintage and the new is perhaps using compounds.
The current is very good and if there was no Vintage left, I would be satisfied.
19th September, 2017 (last edited: 24th October, 2017)

Essence No. 7 : Neroli by Elie Saab

A FK study of Neroli. If you love Neroli you will love this perfume. Honeyed Orange Blossom with nuances of Cardamon and Ginger and the "Metallic" that comes off more like Chalk Wall to me.
Neroli has a natural counterpoint within it's note.
Used as a counterpoint in complex perfumes I see it as tremendously important.
Singular and as nuanced study falls flat for me.
19th September, 2017

No. 19 by Chanel

Today's EDT is Sexy. Period.
Vintage Parfum is Super Sexy. Period.
All Ages and Genders. Period.
That's my subjective view. Period.

Wearing the 88 Extrait today has me cognizant of the High Quality of the ingredients and composition.
Most recent tasted similar. Henry Jacques carries this quality.
16th September, 2017 (last edited: 19th November, 2017)

Epic Man by Amouage

2008-1010 Vintage
Three areas I found this an interesting perfume.
First is the almost perfect way that Mysore has been replicated by coaxing the creaminess and the nuttiness by a somewhat judicious use of Cedar and Oud.
Second the initial blast shares a shape and accord similar to Moschino Pour Homme.
Third,the use of Castoreum draws the centre of gravity lower
much like "Epics" created in the 80's.
16th September, 2017 (last edited: 11th November, 2017)