Perfume Reviews

Reviews by purecaramel

Total Reviews: 329

Shangri La by Hiram Green

Ah! How wonderful, to have someone produce a true Spiced Floral Chypre, in this day.
The Architexture is so very classical and brutal, however, it has a smooth surface as to be so very modern in presentation.
Notice the full breasted bloom and careful balance of sugar to bitter to spice to citric and to then, buttery Savon and a flip to the wood of Vetiver.
No bright walls of Aromachemical.
You want a Chypre? Here, is a Chypre.
I'm going to get some of this.
28th June, 2018

Aventus for Her by Creed

Like most of the Creeds I have nosed, this is a "pretty" assembly of notes. I get the Fruited with Currant, Rose, first off. Nice! The surround of tarted Apple banded with Bergamot tantalizes.
The trouble is, that the Amber Woody Saccharine Compound, that bases this, disturbs the beauty and sucks all into a Black Hole of Glucose-Fructose saturate. This comes nowhere near, the dimension of Rose, Mysore, Amber and Ylang.
Probably fits Contemporary tastes, however, I'll take the Laundry Detergent Rosey Musk of Mancera's Rose Greedy, for my dose of, this kind of "Generic" thing.

My girl had a neutral reaction to this sample.

With the Bois Du Portugal sample, her nostrils flared
and she indicated she was ready to accept me into her space.
27th June, 2018

Flash Back in New York by Olfactive Studio

I really like this. At first. Of course a Cumin Clary Sage start hooks me in quick.
There is a Fir Sap Stickiness (Sugar) together with a whisper of smokiness that kind of turns this to a Leathery Masculine.
A play at the Papyrus Vetiver thing that keeps my interest for a while, however ultimately I'm left with a Contemporary Saccharin finish.
26th June, 2018
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Civet by Zoologist Perfumes

Another stunner from Zoologist!
Opens similar to Jazmin Sarai's Solar 1.
I suppose it's the Oakmoss and Civet which pushes up a great Fruity,Spicy, Musky cloud.
Black Pepper and Carnation Camphour set back the Tuberose to allow a full bloom of Frangipane to create some tropical come hither.
Labdanum weaves it's Leathery feel throughout.
Heliotrope with the Ylang Ylang and Vanilla give it some Gourmandy flavour.
Altogether a really nice blend of a large number of notes, into a smooth symphony.
I get rather long sillage and a perfumed skin hum.
It settles to Resins and trails off into incense.
23rd June, 2018 (last edited: 24th June, 2018)

Dragonfly by Zoologist Perfumes

I knew this was going to be good before I tried it, having read Darvant's review. Damn, I wish could write like that!
This scent is so very poetically Feminine, brilliantly watercoloured and orchestrated to a sweet powdery thing.
Just when I feel it will become saturated and border cloying dry sweetness, a dab of Aquatic, Watermelon, Calonic draws it back to some moisture.
This Calonic is something that few noses can handle with finesse. ex. O'Driu Ta
While it is an enjoyable ride on my skin, it seems a little too pretty for my Masculine daily wear.
Gosh though, on a woman, with it's lack of Ambroxinized bluster, what a gorgeous thing!
23rd June, 2018 (last edited: 24th June, 2018)

Madame Rochas (original) by Rochas

A Vintage sample.
yellowtone sent me a few samples of some great scents.
In particular, Madame Rochas had me drawn back to events in my childhood.

In the 60's as a young boy, my world was full of beautiful women, wearing largely Shalimar, Emeraude, Cabochard and the occasional Chanel.
One day, a girlfriend of my mother, a Redhead wearing bright Red Lipstick and a Green Silk dress walked in. She grabbed me up and planted kisses all over my face. She then pulled my face right in to her full bosom. It was scented with this gorgeous stuff. I melted into her arms.

To quickly, her and my mother were off to some Girl's night out.
Since the age of 4, I've wanted some of more of that.
A small bottle of Vintage is on the way.

Oh yes. When you sniff through all symphony of notes, you may notice the hum of the Rose Sandalwood marriage.
That very thing that had me, quickly adopt the chic Rive Gauche as a Signature, alongside my young beautiful girlfriend in the 70's.
11th June, 2018

Arbolé Arbolé by Hiram Green

At the face of it, an accord generic, most often presented as Almond Extract of Maraschino-ed Heliotrope, snonk of Tonka, Vanillin Sugar, Lactonic Sandal and a wall of Ambroxin between the event and my nostrils.
With Arbole Arbole, I dig deeper and recognize the careful attention paid to seasoning. Salt and sugar are placed gently as to allow the Perfume of Almond, to rise with the Vanilla, to hover above, as Savoury.
This finesse of structure, I have seen before...Ah Yes!
Hiram Green's Voyage.
Drydown is most elegantly Masculine, "Old Spice Tonka-ed"
This will be in my Wardrobe.
10th June, 2018 (last edited: 26th June, 2018)

Prima T by Bruno Acampora

"This" is a Perfume, indeed.

It's Floral beauty is, one Giant Kaleidoscope of Emotion, Musical Depth and Feminine Majesty.
Layer upon Layer of, well, "The aroma re-proposes, in a modern way....."
This scent captures fully, the Buttery Magic, of a Woody Floral Chypre.
Paying close attention, allows me to vision both the LOV and Lily.
Background is a Savon-Luxe, fit for a Queen.

It's story is so very luxuriously stunning.

Darvant's Poetry is a truth.
10th June, 2018

Miss Dior Originale (previously Miss Dior) by Christian Dior

60's Vintage

Big, big, Classical expanding Floral with a Mossy Leathery textured base. It's central bouquet balances perfectly to its contents. Each flower can be sensed singular in tone, however no 1 overpowers the other. Balance, is most perfect.
The beauty of the Bergamot Citric runs through to a Dry Patchouli and creates an elegance reminiscent to Luciano Pavarotti. Castoreum attaches to the skin and has me calling it mine.
A very, very light powder suggests it was meant for the girls, however it is....
Totally Genderless to me.
09th June, 2018

Chypre Palatin by MDCI

Quality Amber heavy and Oakmoss light. The Florals are hazed.
The opening has the impressive Citric attachment to the requisite Costus,Labdanum and carries along this edge for a little while.
Then falls into a trap of collapsing the buttery Oakmoss and misses it's Savon.
Better to find a Ruthless Chypre Floral like Aromatics Elixir to quench the thirst.
08th June, 2018 (last edited: 09th June, 2018)

Erawan by Parfums Dusita

The first miss for a Favourite house.
Now, I'm male so my reaction comes from the Masculine in me. The LOV top note hits my head with a thud. Dry Hay grates against my senses. The Musk emanating from this turns my stomach in the same way as sweetened Tuberose. The soapy drydown softens it in such a way that I had to scrub.
What is Liatrus anyway?
Give me hit of Issara please.
08th June, 2018

Camel by Zoologist Perfumes

Sparkling, Resinous, Symphonic, Orientalized, Fruity, ever so slightly Aromachemical opening had me drawn to the expectation of a piece of a Jubilation 25 story.
Nope, this never becomes a Sweetened Fruit Punch Bowl.
Camel concentrates on the rich spice of the Date, Dried Fruit and carries me through an Incensed hue, gently Smokey and Vetivered, dry and whispered Camphour.
Non-linear in structure it's magic is it's, gentle, almost buttered smooth, move to a Tobacco-ed Chypred Citric, (coming seeming from below rather than lead) Luxury Sandal Savon.
I am hugely entertained by the touches of Civet, Jasmine, Cedar, Blossom and Vanilla of the Conductor's
Beautiful hum and texture of a Classic Parfum halo on my skin.
Recommended, to all.
07th June, 2018

Spice and Wood by Creed

Just nice......and it ain't no Bois du Portugal
06th June, 2018
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Royal Mayfair by Creed

Affected... and perfectly mannered for the time one wishes to be "ponce" or campy.
I rarely do myself, however love this on others and love the humour.
Ultimately metallic Orange Blossom a certain effete flair.
For me. Nope.
I do appreciate the kind sample from the very gregarious Creed SA.
A 50ml of Bois du Portugal. Blue Leather and all coming.
05th June, 2018 (last edited: 06th June, 2018)

M/Mink by Byredo

I don't think this Patchouli scent is as weird as people make out. It cleverly rearranges the lighting, sleeks out the Camphour that pairs with the Florals of the Adoxal. This cleaned, scrubbed and fresh accord is counterpointed by a gentle animalic of Ambered Honey. Overall a melody quite charming, Modern and Chic.
Blending and architecture is masterful and holds some similarity to another patchouli beauty, Luciano Pavarotti.
03rd June, 2018

Eau Fraîche by Christian Dior

Like I own a bottle of the "Wicker" patterning The bottle has what appears to be the indication of Eau de Toilette with it's simple
"eau fraiche de Christian Dior" and 90 Degree and Paris on back labeling.
To the Juice.
Well, I'm dating it to the 80's as the Alcohol has "acetoned" much like my 80's Chanel for Men.
Then the Roudnitska "Boozy and Ripened Melon" blooms in captivating Technicolour. I think, as a result of the scents relative simplicity in structure, the note or accord, is accentuated in it's brilliance.
The rest is a gentle ride into an Oakmossy Citric savon to my skin.
It seems to almost disappear much the same as Vintage Eau Sauvage until I realize, at the end of the day, the Oakmoss is supporting a slightly sweet Vanilla-ed Powder.
Perhaps a Feminine,without an Eau Sauvage animalic, however, it's mine and I will wear it liberally, on my Masculine skin, as it is, still rather Handsome.
01st June, 2018

Rose Ishtar by Rania J

A very interesting take on a Rose and Sandalwood marriage.
Start is a Rosy Red Currant enhanced by the vaguely bitter Citrus of Bergamot. Some Rose Damask Absolutes I have nosed, open this way and quickly twist my nostrils to a Spice which blends with Sandal to create something quite magic.
This is the best part of this scent.
Although better than the Mancera Roses Greedy, it dries down to a Contemporary Saccharined Almond Extract (Heliotrope?)and rather Generic Musk with not quite enough Patch too save it from causing pain, in my brain.
I tend to ClaireV's take with this.
30th May, 2018

Oud Assam by Rania J

Beautiful Hindi Barnyard opening to reveal a mille fieulles
of Varnishes and some fruit of Thai. The Barn and tinge of Cheese add an aromatic counter to the Thai whiskey.
Pepper adds some bit of dustiness and a nice quality Frankincense bites through the cloy that can exist with the Tonka-ed Musk.
28th May, 2018

Cedrat Boise by Mancera

I love this! It's canvas is of Citrus based cleaner used in a Public toilet. Jasmine's vague Petroleum Indol and Contemporary creamed Sandal dances a diddle atop. A green Cedarwood note is countered by a fruity Currant.
Apply lightly and concentrate on the playful dance.

Another Mancera fun fragrance.
28th May, 2018

Oud Wood Intense by Tom Ford

This is cat's butt for all those who like the Ford Oud Compound, "Magic", in the Private Blends.
This lays bare the requisite band-aids. Lacquered, dried by aromachemical Citrus, Driftwood. Dimensionless and hollow it's aroma lazily points to all things, well... Soulless and Cynical.
I smell this everywhere... with it's pale mate... Sauvage.
28th May, 2018

Land by Lacoste

Beautiful ranch "Land" similar to Montana Pour Homme.
It remains parched for the most part until Amber offers a mellowing sweetness to support a bouquet of dried Florals.
The Citrus is very slightly sweetened against a canvas of watercolour. A mild soapiness envelops, until a whispered bloom of Cumin rises like a cloud from beneath, then disappears in a breeze, to then bloom again from time to time over a couple of hours.
This scent is very much alive. Just when I think it is a mere Aromatic the bloom of human sweat develops and then steps back again.
Drier, however structure is reminiscent of Trumper's Eucris, particularly the peek-aboo of Cumin.
28th May, 2018

Colony (original) by Jean Patou

Stunningly beautiful Fruity Chyper-esque Feminine Jubilation 25 took this frame, turned up the volume and sharpened some of the corners.
Side by side they feel the same and throw off an accord, sublime. Another Vintage charmer free from Contemporary deafening naff.
26th May, 2018

Eau de Patou (original) by Jean Patou

Beautiful scent, particularly for Summer. Feminine? Maybe. Closer to genderless to my tastes.
Bright Citrus top. Finessed use of the Honeysuckle with the Orange Blossom and bit of Peppery Nasturtium to counter the sweetness. Musky, Oakmoss Canvas turns to a perfect Ambered Savon. Civet? Perhaps for a little angling to scent human.
This competes well with Vintage Pour Monsieur, Eau Sauvage, Dior Eau Fraiche for the sexy, classy Citrus supported by real Oakmoss depth.
26th May, 2018

Woody Perfecto / 107 by Parle Moi de Parfum

First sniff had me going " That's the Accord of Guerlain's Les Déserts d'Orient - Songe d'un Bois d'Été.
This stays clean and no Cuminned Honeyed filthiness appears. The top edge of Oudy Comet-ness takes over and the scent remains linear and polite to the end.
22nd May, 2018

Lust by Gorilla Perfume

This is the Jasmine Indole that is laid down behind the Jasmine Absolute.
I have the solid perfume. It provides a beautiful albeit saccharin laden base below my Vintage Eau Fraiche and has it's (Eau Fraiche) rot lasting more than half an hour. Those with fear of the Fecal and Petroleum best stay away!
21st May, 2018 (last edited: 22nd May, 2018)

Armani Privé Iris Céladon by Giorgio Armani

Very nice, elegant look at Iris. It is tucked neatly in the heart. Working with the Ambrette it seems an accord of doughiness peeks through. The Mate identified as a scrubbed up Patchouli. A good pick if I didn't have the beautiful Au Dela Narcisse pardon me Feu Secret and elegant Luciano Pavarotti side by side.
20th May, 2018

Tempo by Diptyque

I say another winner from Diptyque. Once the assault of AC Bergamot settles.
At first it seems just another de-clawed Patchouli. As I dig deeper I realize that the angle of lighting is Con-tempo-rary. Violet Leaf and Baie Rose dance above creating an accord quite elegant. Clary Sage is a nice surprise and draws at my Masculine senses. The Mate adds the Hay to the mix. Even whispers of the Camphour are light and airy, offering a pretty picture. Oh! They don't forget the touch of dry soil to complete the scene.
Very close to the arrid Fragrance du Bois Sahraa Oud.
I have a feeling I'll be spritzing this often and like the Oud Palao,recognizing I need another bottle.
Totally wearable.
18th May, 2018 (last edited: 17th June, 2018)

Pois De Senteur by Guerlain

Easy to dismiss, in these days of harsh, bitter Electro Citrus, Bright Walls of Vibrating White Musk, Tickling Ambered Sawdust and dripping gobs of Maltol.
This is a stunningly beautiful, classically assembled, White Floral. The Bouquet is supported by a Vanilla-ed Sandal, Soft and Gentle. LOV, which can easily dominate
a scent, is placed carefully alongside Hyacinth, as to offer a slight Greeness.
Sweetness and mild spice scents by the Rose Sandal envelope which then marries to the dreamy watercolour sugars of Cyclamen.
The accord created is Sweet Pea? Perhaps.
It whispers to me, "Feminine", Girl,
Progesterone budding.
Love Ellie.
14th May, 2018

Aoud Café by Mancera

Another Mancera scent developed by "Let's play with a bunch of Aromachemicals and see what happens" "Oh Hey, there's some kind of Coffee accord and Wow! that smells like Celery. Here let's wrap it up with Amber and sweeten with Maltol.
Actually quite fun to wear and in small doses stays this side of cloyingly sticky.
14th May, 2018

Iranzol by Bruno Acampora

This broadly comes at me like a Feminine,Citric, Dry, Mossy Chypre. It has whispers of Fazzolari's Seyrig in the canvas.
I recognized the aromatic start of "Wild Mushrooms" Sauteed in Butter which acts much like (for me) Oakmoss in finish. The pulsating puffs of Hay and Spice are so very interesting and has me viewing this as more of a Masculine. Acampora offers strange and exciting lighting, to a Classic Chypre.
An easier wear than the Seyrig as it lacks the vague waxiness of Fazzolari's stirring creation.
14th May, 2018