Perfume Reviews

Reviews by purecaramel

Total Reviews: 213

Blackpepper by Comme des Garçons

The opening here is so very close to Freshly Cracked Black. It has nuances of sweetness of the berry.
This quickly moves to the Wood/Tonka base which becomes almost a soapy sweet canvas.
As others have said it's intensity disappears quickly. As a background the wood has an interesting soft Synthetic feel, very pleasant.
The best part of this is the opening, which is more rounded than my reference, Armani Bois d'Encens.

I prefer the Armani with it's dry austerity of dusty Black and White.
04th August, 2017

Lumiere by Aftelier

If you are looking for a Candied Synthetic Floral that announces your whining presence all day. Move along.

This is a personal perfume that had me slow down, pause, smell the Lily, from blossom to stem, to root, to soil and beyond.

The perfumer is an Artist who presents scents that are, well, just, Beautiful, Alive and Natural.

If you allow yourself to relax, you may pick up the effect of Ambergris, which is breezy billowing and more of a feeling.

Lumiere in particular, is a star.

31st July, 2017 (last edited: 01st August, 2017)

Bergamoss Solid Perfume by Aftelier

This started with the unmistakable "ButterOil" accord that identifies Oakmoss for me. I say accord because the carrier medium whether it's Beeswax, fractionated oil, adds a smooth texture which smooths the palette.
I do not identify the Bergamot as it may be a variety I am not familiar with. The Citron provides the Citrus bite to further provide the Classical Counterpoint necessary to fill out, the base canvas. At this point I fail to identify Civet, however I am taken by the use of almost hay-like, mildly camphourous cloud, formed by touches of Sage and the notable plonk of Native Sweetgrass (Tobacco) which replaces Patchouli, Lavender etc.
This all forms an interesting arc of a vague urinous souring, that for a moment has me thinking this is not good with my skin. A mild sweetness rounds the corner (Sweet Orange?) to bring it back together.
Bergamoss strikes me not so much as a perfume as a medicinal ointment to heal wounds both Physically and Spiritually. It speaks to the reverence for Oakmoss and Tobacco in Celtic and North American Native Cultures.
31st July, 2017
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Cepes and Tuberose by Aftelier

First sniff " We have a winner" The Gaseous of Ammoniac Perfume of Cepes is captured to a tee.
The opening has the Gassy open of the Fungus. like Pathetique this top is used to surprise and amuse provide a ammoniac balloon to highlight the heart, which in this case the Dreaded Tuberose. Trouble is that it brings the Love fllower along gently and concentrates upon the essense of the beast which is somewhat vegetal dry. This is highly contrary to the Violently Indolic overally buttered, overally sweet fruity barf inducing presentation of the time.
So this perfume, for me, comes off as a splendid indication of the tender layered beauty of the Tuberose profile.
A beautifully balanced,nuanced, artistic piece that could be presented as an Ice cream flavour savoury.
While the Boletus accord is not true, it presents with a billow, Tuberose as a Queen.

My opportunity to stop worrying and learn to Love the Tuberose.

31st July, 2017

Amber Oudh by Rasasi

There's more going on here than just Amber and Oud. Tinged with a quiet Saffron a small bouquet of Rosy Florals supported by a Light white Musk.
Oud? Well,okay.Tonally yes.
A touch of Oud butter, Australian Sandalwood and polished bottling, Eau de Parfum labeling and it could sell beside the 500USD bottles.
Beautiful, Linear and a fine example of Eastern styling.
A cut above many other reasonably priced oils in the game.
23rd July, 2017

Oud Shamash by The Different Company

This opens with a blinding rush of fruit alcohol that acts as an assault to have your mind blanched for the symphony that follows. A clean landscape of a planed sheet of hardwood. Cracked Pink Pepper and chipped Cinnamon bark is smashed on to the surface. At this stage my first impression is slivers of Gucci Pour Homme 1.
I bring my eyes down to the surface and stare along the plane and sense the Rose beckoning across the Universe along that line. My second impression is that of Chanel No.18.
Deep down is central point of wood varnishes layered, which are to my sense the whispers of the Laotian.
Oh Yes. A light envelope of Saffron surrounds it all to add a quiet sensualness.
This is a presentation of Oud perfume that follows the same line as MFK and further Fragrance du Bois.
With an abstract feel of the Chanel 18.
Ultimately this fades reminiscent of the Tolu resin in Woodcut.
I may have to have some of this.
11th July, 2017 (last edited: 17th July, 2017)

Moustache by Rochas

Vintage 1980's EDC.
Beautiful opening burst of Citrus with pointed Basil rather than that of Rosemary (Eau Sauvage)
Quickly moves to the extraordinary Florals which have been honeyed urinous. It winds back to the Liquorice of Basil.
The buttery Oakmoss volumes the whole mix and creates an Eau Sauvage heart heavier, dirtier and bordering powder.
A little darker than the ES and
YSL reintroduced this dirtiness in the 70's with Pour Homme with it's Thyme, Vetiver with a touch of honey piss surrounded by Citrus.
Wonderful to taste the "Original"
Dirty Citrus.

21st June, 2017

Miss Balmain by Pierre Balmain

EDP from 1970.
Well, here you go with the beautiful butter of Oakmoss.
The Adelhydes, Citrus and Florals provide a landscape which leads to a soft Feminine Leather , nicely powdered up with Tonka and Amber.
Some say similar to Cabochard. Maybe, however the Cabochard Vintage leans a little more Masculine. Miss Balmain is very nice for the girls.
20th June, 2017 (last edited: 21st June, 2017)

Ocean Rain for Men by Mario Valentino

Start has some strange Herbal Adelhydic assault similar to those of some scents I have tasted in recent works!? A crafty and attractive use of a Calonic freshness supported by the watery sweetening of Cyclamen.
Green Notes strikes me of a base stationary of Galbanumic,Basil with it's Liqorice, Wormwood bitterness made slightly opaque as bee swarm of Rose and Florals swirl around it like System Solar. It spits out the strong oils of dirty Thyme, resins of Fir and Amber with a streak incense slicing through the center. A moldy moss binds it all.
All in all a finely orchestration of romance,love,tragedy, darkness, hope, melancholy.
Roudnitska yep. This was crafted expertly to be a classic Symphonic piece to fit the time of the Ozonic.
Pregoni uses this paint in some of his work.
14th June, 2017 (last edited: 19th June, 2017)

Diorella by Christian Dior

Vintage Diorella EDT 1970's.
Opens with an Adelhydic Citrus, Basil and mild Galbanum, Bergamot twist. Here it is reminiscent of the assault of Jubilation 25. A light Peachiness softens.

The Floral Bouquet in the Heart is so well blended and natural that I only recognize what is a slight Indol of Jasmine, which combines later with the Clove and musk to suggest a mild skank. The watery sweetness of the Cyclamen lightens and brightens. A buttery canvas of Oakmoss billows, dimensionalizes and softens all.
A fine base of Sandalwood, Patchouli and Vetiver strike a light accord as base. Vanilla? Perhaps it is tucked in there, however the whole thing speaks a Masterpiece of Elegant Symphonic Art.
To speak of gender is just rude.
14th June, 2017

Dior Dior by Christian Dior

Sample of the Dior Dior Parfum.
Great thanks to Cook.Bot for this opportunity to taste a vertical of Edmond Roudnitska.

Eye roll! There is a giddiness that comes about and tickles the same spot as orgasm. I'm back to 10 years old and my first bottle of Eau Sauvage. Did Roudnitska ever produce anything ugly? Gosh this is lovely!

Oakmoss is such a magical thing. For me it pairs with the Citrus to create a Savon which then, puffs in a dimensionality, unmistakeable. Oakmoss Singular identifies itself for me as Butter Oil like clarified.

The Narcisse draws a rigid stripe through the centre. Muguet is there and then gone to return as a pulse after the Jasmine narcotics my brain cells.

As Parfum does, it produces a bubble or halo over my skin, a voluminous cushion of sumptuous-ness.

Although there is a Feminine tilt, I find it quite wearable as a dude.

Discontinued. Therefore no reforms.
All of which makes it quite dear.
My eyes will be watching.
10th June, 2017

Vert de Fleur by Tom Ford

Starts with a softened Private Collection Galbanum. Transition to airy floral Hedionic Jasmine at lead and a soft Rose transparent. Neroli makes a light breeze thankfully and travels through to a soft orange blossom. High quality synthed Oakmoss works nicely with the Citrus and Patch to present a beautifully billowed landscape painted on to a Bar of Savon.
Classic mix of 1970's,1980's and update. Refined and all sharp corners are sanded down to present a slightly Feminine aura,
however I could wear as a man as it almost carries the beauty of the 80's original Armani and whispers of the original Eau Sauvage.
Nostalgia piece that may be lost on youth.
29th May, 2017 (last edited: 31st May, 2017)

Oscar by Oscar de la Renta

Another Sieuzac dream. Mid 80's Vintage Eau de Parfum. Bergamot start with Aromatic Basil, Coriander Anise twist at first reminds me of Hiram Green Voyage and Shalimar.
Peach slightly sweetens and is countered by Clove/Cinnamon. Here, this nods to Youth Dew. A quiet Carnation Camphour cools, dries and mops up the sweetness of a drop of Nectar.

A Jasmin Indole, with it's gentle rot, draws me away from a mild Tuberose Heart.

The Rose drifts in and attaches to the real Sandalwood as a hint of Castoreum rises through the center with a light incense. Amber slightly Vanilla-ed anchors.

All in all a beautiful package that can be worn by a man as easily as Shalimar.

Drydown becomes a buttery Savon, I suspect a little Moss is to blame.

16th May, 2017
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Estivalia by Antonio Puig

More of an Eau de Cologne on my male skin. Citrus top which shortlived. Light floral with a Vetiver finish.
Uncomplicated, fresh, not overly Feminine aura. Nice for the hot, humid, summers. A cut bove the regular body wash scents.
22nd March, 2017

Incense Oud by Nicolaï

Structure of this has a Nicolai Signature common to all that I have nosed. A centre of gravity low within the Heart Notes. Light touch of Oud is surrounded by a thin blanket of Patch and Cedary woodiness.
With this scent Ambrette is used similar to Chanel's No. 18. It draws my mind to the distance with a whisper of Rose vague.
The Base feels light. The weight of Amber and Styrax is like one stroke of a Watercolour. The Omani is a sliver of light singular. I fail to identify the Castoreum.
All in all a very pleasant scent fitting for the time.
Hope to nose Oud Sublime Extrait sometime in the future.
21st March, 2017

adr_ett by Nomenclature

Interesting scent that starts with a light airy citric fruitiness and whispers of spice and mallow. Some sparkles of of effervescence, a base of Vanillinized Tonkin and a touch of concocted Ambergris.
In spite of it's quiet footprint I can appreciate it's etch.
08th February, 2017

Royall Spyce by Royall Lyme of Bermuda

Bought a bottle of this in the Early 80's. A wonderful spicy concoction that had a beautiful nutmeg and clove plush drydown that was perfectly "Old Style" in this time of the bold monster Masculines.
I bought it along with a YSL Tuxedo and Charvet Silk blouse which were "de Rigueur" before Armani.
A sniff of the latest yesterday, had me back at "The Hotel" Christmas party, drinking pink Champagne.
Wonderful stuff!!
04th February, 2017 (last edited: 05th February, 2017)

Royall Lyme by Royall Lyme of Bermuda

Nice inexpensive Lime Cologne with a standard Bay Masculine drydown. I believe my sample is Vintage, however this is short-lived with the Lime. Nostalgic and pleasant surely.
These days I get a better kick of Lime from Bugatti 1992
and certainly Jo Malone's Lime Basil Mandarin being EDT strength, offers a longer ride.
Still, a pleasant find if you can find it at the right price.
04th February, 2017

Prada Olfactories : Marienbad by Prada

Dreamlike in effect. This hints to an Anise(ian)twist Leather shared by Knize Ten. A paper thin sliced canvas of Vanilla(ed)Amber hums as if framed by a ringed strip of fragrant wood Hinoki. Hiram Green with Voyage out does with it's unique Vanilla/Anise.
Is the inscensed breeze of burning Oud Chip the cause of this Hummmmm, I ponder.
Cola? Root Beer? Myrrh I expect. Me likem. This is one for the Queen and I.
19th December, 2016 (last edited: 24th April, 2017)

French Line by Révillon

Brutal Bergamot, Herbal start of many Masculines of the Era. This blooms with a slightly dry Floral Bouquet, that of Jasmine, Rose and light rigidity of Narcisse. A quiet sharpness of Patchouli weaves with Quality Musks. Coconut barely noticeable adds a buttery succulence in the background. Another beautifully put together perfume from the 80's. Although it shares a Chanel finesse and similar structure of Antaeus, it has none of the skank of the one and only. Surprised that it is not talked about so much. If you see it, pick it up.I will!!
03rd December, 2016 (last edited: 07th January, 2017)

21 Club by 21 Club

From a Vintage sample? graciously supplied by Bavard.
Whoa! Brutal start like a typical 80's monster. Lavender citrus with an 80's dose of Leathery Labdanum dryness, Galbanum and an excellent plonk of Oakmoss. Good quality Oakmoss allows for a long drydown. Detect the outline of this 12 hours later. Some pick up a woodiness and I pick up a dry tobacco.
Could'nt help thinking, "This relates to something I've worn lately".
Dusita Le Sillage Blanc. 21 Club is more linear and as expected Mossy longlived. The Dusita has a cloud of Neroli, Orange Blossom and Ambrette that makes it prettier.
If you can find it, 21 Club is a winner, particularily with it's Oakmoss lusciousness.
02nd December, 2016 (last edited: 06th January, 2017)

Le Sillage Blanc by Parfums Dusita

At first a dense Canvas of Patch, Oakmoss, Ganja. Leathery feel with a good dose of Galbanum. Salty and dry Tobacco touched with Ambrette provides a sour smokiness that almost puckers.Reminiscent accord of peppery Nasturtium.
The Neroli and Orange Blossom bring what little sugar content this has and presents as a Whispering float above it all.
This may not appeal to those who expect a dose of Candy Floral.
Visually, if you change the angle of observation, what is revealed is rather large photo or picture, green and lush set against a massive flat, brightly lit, silent, white wall. Getting back to reality.
Another beautiful, luxurious gem from a Favourite House. It leans Masculine, however will attract all who are delighted with Bitter Greens, Oakmoss on a canvas of bleached wood. A lick of gorgeous blossomed savon and voluminous whiff of... well, Ganja. To boot.
19th November, 2016 (last edited: 08th February, 2017)

Geisha Noire by Aroma M

This is for the Oil formulation. Oils on my skin, take a little more time to develop, and tend to project a sort of halo-ed aura. This gem is no different.
There is a mild Citrus start. Then a move to a Vanilla Tonka that is countered again by a Salt Breeze Ambergris . A Sandalwood base hints of Incense.
The whole effect, indeed, has the Ambery Halo-Glow of a Sandalwood box lined with a whisper of something weedy like Patch to counter the Amber.The Citrus enters gain and the Ambergris puffs up each ingredient to add depth and breadth. A crescendo is reached which is like a fourth dimension. I expect that is the action of the Ambergris. Powdery Feminine finish similar to
Miller Harris Fleur Oriental.
16th November, 2016 (last edited: 24th May, 2017)

Italian Angel by O'Driù

Pregoni Culinary Signature certainly,
Italian Angel continues a play with the Sweet vs Savoury in dance around the Vetiver. There is a flow of fascination provided by highlighting the gassy-ness
inherent in the ingredients.
The presentation is addictive, much in the same of intoxicants such as nicotine, alcohol, truffles.
Yes, all of the ingredients can be identified and also note that they are blended in such a way that they all are given equal viewing of their lethalness.
16th November, 2016 (last edited: 10th January, 2017)

Ambre Doré by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

A favourite of many men, hazard to guess!
Salty, Leathery Amber, Herbal,Spiced stuffed with a bite of Savoury, slightly bitter Geranium and Myrrh.
With Styrax and Clary Sage it reaches the same itch spot as Vintage Bel Ami.
A Masculine celebration.
Me wants some!!!
16th November, 2016 (last edited: 09th January, 2017)

Salvador Dali by Salvador Dali

"Classy, Warm,Smooky (as it is properly spelled) rich,Gorgeous,Powerful,Lush, Feminine, Romantic and Nostalgic."

aquila_2009 got it right.

This is an 80's bomb, anchored by a "Broadshouldered Moss" and typified by a Fireworks Display of Sweet Floral and a healthy plonk of billowing Musk.
Enormously Feminine and Grand.
Draws me back, nostalgically to, my head buried in the ample cleavage of my 80's girl.

Again, many thanks to BN'r Scenttastic for this sample.
16th November, 2016 (last edited: 27th November, 2016)

Loukhoum by Keiko Mecheri

It has a wonderful,refreshing, healing aura.
On application a scent of almond extract which anticipates a following of Sugar, Amber and cloy. A pleasant surprise via vegetal tilt, that for a moment releases a slight citric like that of bitter orange, followed by the Cream of a beautiful Vanilla.
Gentle, Gorgeous, Subtle and totally Lovely!
15th November, 2016 (last edited: 07th January, 2017)

Les Echappées - Granada by Memo

Quite a nice Indolic Jasmine and Orange Blossom start that quickly falls into an uncomplicated Feminine standard Floral on a rather generic base.
I am a fan of a vibrant Jasmine assault, however I've been ruined by the over the top, honey dripped finesse of Lutens Sarrasins, which outclasses.
15th November, 2016

Anné Pliska by Anné Pliska

Delightful Feminine Amber. Shalimar? Not quite. This does'nt have as much going on and thankfully lacks the plasticky irritant of the Guerlain. After the Citrus dies off this remains linear (Amber and Patch), somewhat like Ambre 114, with softened volume and is clearly for the girls.
15th November, 2016

La Douceur de Siam by Parfums Dusita

A feel of Malaysian perfume oils. No wonder, a Sweet Ambery Vanilla and a Clove to counterpoint.
Plumeria and Champaca offer a Floral Exotic that floats a gorgeous (Egyptian Rose). The Violet provides a mild green airiness and slight astringent. A particularily beautiful Sandalwood creams it all up. Remarkable assembly, balance and finesse. Just as "Oud Infini", first breath is an eye roller. I want to lick my arm.
Dusita has created a note of Sandalwood creaminess that is reminiscent of 80's Chanel.
13th November, 2016 (last edited: 21st May, 2017)