Perfume Reviews

Reviews by purecaramel

Total Reviews: 360

Sycomore Eau de Parfum by Chanel

EDP 2016
Chanel is using a base in this that revolves around
a sweetened Wood. While it rounds off some of the sharper bit's making it, as a couple of women, (including my Queen)easier for the Feminine to wear, IMO it loses some of the things that make it exceptional for the Masculine. Therefore it is still a very good perfume as most Chanel's are, however loses it's "ganja" sparkle.
19th September, 2018

Pasha by Cartier

I've no idea what Vintage I'm nosing here, however it is similar to Jazz Prestige. This tops with a little Mint and adds a whisper of Cumin to which I find attractive.
As Epapsiou says, No Brainer.
16th September, 2018

Eau Parfumée au Thé Noir by Bulgari

I like this scent. It's use of Aquatic, works seamlessly into what is essentially a smoldering Leather and ashtray similar to Heeley Phoenicia. The rubber of Faux Oud whispers only just. Patchouli and Tea strike an accord reminiscent of Tobacco. Following the lines of the melange, I am quite captivated by it's soft, smooth surfaces that "bloom" (Magnolia) rather than etch. Rose Oud softly.
Nicely done.
09th September, 2018 (last edited: 20th September, 2018)
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Alaïa by Azzedine Alaïa

Opening is an assault of contemporary Saccharin sweetened, Musk, indistinct Floral, with hints to Tobacco in the aftertaste. Topped with an Aquatic, it has an effect similar, to, soft hydrogenated Peanut Butter stickiness to my palate. Olfactive, soft, muddy dullness, with whispers of public lavatory flatulence lingering.
I am hugely entertained by the "Musings" of this scent
by Luca Turin.
Boom XB-1 Baby Boom commercial iterations, I hope, would choose, to pump in Bond No.9 Westside, for an appropriate Nostalgie.
This stuff, needs to remain, on the shelves of, American Shopping Malls and Airports.
01st September, 2018

Obsessive Oudh by Al Haramain

Opening is similar to Oud Assam then it moves to a Varnish almost Paint Thinner for a second. Wow! Drydown is carefully balanced to offer Blue Cheese, Fruity Trat and a wonderful dusty, ancient mushroom, Woody. As Hat and Beard says "This is a feral Beast". It does throw off an afterburn rather ethereal, much the same as some of the wilder Oils.
27th August, 2018

Quartz pour Homme by Molyneux

Opens as a brother to Jazz Prestige with a dose of Green. It changes direction to a drier Apple scented fruitiness. Dry Clove and Cedar woodiness. A musky unsweetened Amber becomes Leathery and is solidly Masculine
26th August, 2018

Surrender by Ciro

Acetoned alcohol start, which for some, can be troublesome, predominates in the opening. A few minutes on the skin and a beautiful Leather Chypre unfolds. I identify a rigid orris stripe across a canvas of almost Cedar-ed Sandal. A few minutes later a bouquet of Rose, Violet and Ethereal Jasmine, billows. Ambergris airiness? The Sandal takes on a sweetness unmistakable, dances with the Floral to throw off a whispered Powder and Cosmetic.

I would date this, cute miniature bottle, possibly from the 60's.
26th August, 2018

Pheromone for Men by Marilyn Miglin

Opens so very similar to Amouage Memoir Man. It has a continuing Bergamot bitterness that is slightly sweetened by Lemon Rind. Aromatic greens with a Camphourous edge and Whoa!! Frankincense dry spikiness.
There is an edge to this ala the Amouage and Heeley Cardinal. Honey? Perhaps a little, that combines with the Labdanum and Wood to produce a vague urinous animalic.
I wear it for my own pleasure.
25th August, 2018

Diorling by Christian Dior

Leather Chypre. A Dior answer to Cabochard. I expect that my sample is Vintage as a Bitter Hyacinth and Oakmoss start, softens and billows. Severity moves to the background and reveals a beautiful, slightly green Rose. The edge of LOV slices through a vegetal and ever so slight,doughy Iris. LOV is shown similar to that of Lauder for Men. In fact, throw in a little Juniper, Clary Sage and it would turn to the Masculine from that of Unisex.
Beautiful scent!
I know I'm a bit of a Heathen here, however, I would wear this ahead of the more popular, genderless Diorella.
25th August, 2018

Nouveau Monde by Louis Vuitton

Water-colour take on all the Rose Ouds out there. Buffed up to be White Bread clean.
25th August, 2018

Orage by Louis Vuitton

Simple, good, soily, Patchouli and Vetiver fragrance. Touch of Iris and some airy Hedione. Bind it together with a plug of ISOe and you have something quite elegant.
The SA suggested that it was perfect for the Westcoast
"Doesn't it smell like a Vancouver sidewalk after a Rain?"
I say "Yep"
25th August, 2018

Doblis (original) by Hermès

Vintage EDC

Leather? Perhaps. There is some relation to Caleche and in the background a very light animalic related to Thyme and Oakmoss. A reserved Powder.

I was much more impressed with Caron's Tabac Blond EDC and well, Madame Rochas is, Ooh Lala!!!

Thumb's up from a Historical perspective of Guy Robert's work.
24th August, 2018

Sandor 70’s by Carner Barcelona

Rude start with Jasmine and a rather brutal Bergamot.
Very quickly sets to the heart of a few Masculine things I like. Clary Sage and the Top note of Cedar pierce through a mildly sugared Vanilla base of Oakmoss canvas scented with Frankincense. A Masculine that has some of the suave architecture of Gucci Pour Homme 2003.
I'm tempted to get another draw of this.
24th August, 2018
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Coup de Foudre by Bortnikoff

Opens with a boozy Citrus almost exotic Floral Adelhyde.
The heart is indeed the highlight. Fruity Trat provides a Layered varnishy canvas that is softened and billowed by real Sandalwood. I know, because Bortnikoff, very kindly,added a sample of Sandal 100k to recognize the use of it in his scent.
LOV, Ylang-ylang and Tuberose are blended so very carefully with Pine and drying Pepper, Carnation camphour as to render this scent agreeable to all Gender.
Base is a non-cloying mixture of Benzoin, Spice and Labdanum. Touch of Vanilla offers a pleasant Woody sweetness. Tolu and whisper of Jasmine, trails in the end, gently.

Love at first sight.
For me?
No, Love at first sniff.
24th August, 2018

Mysterious Oud by Bortnikoff

This starts with a pleasant whiff of Hindi. As I follow down I reach the fruity Varnish of Trat with a whiff of Smoke and Whiskey. The heart is reminisce of some Zoologist creations.
Tolu has a distinct scent profile that if used heavily turns me off. In this case it wraps itself gently around the heart.
Rose rarely shows it's colour, however the Petroleum of Jasmine mates with a healthy dose of wonderful Labdanum to produce a leathery feel and a trail of light creosote.
Animalic and sweet richness of tone is provided by a Castoreum wrapped around a Tonka Vanilla envelope.
Spices and Incense slice through any cloyness. Baie Rose does exist, within this melange and provides it's sharp points together with Cardamom whispers of Camphour.
This, for me, is a contemplative scent, that perhaps appeals more to the Masculine sensibility.
20th August, 2018 (last edited: 19th August, 2018)

Pois de Senteur de Chez Moi by Caron

Vintage EDC

None of the Pretty, Young Girls and Sweet Pea of the Guerlain.
Progesterone rich LOV, with a dose of Animalic, quite breathtaking. A Powdery goodness that says, Woman. Some relation to the Tabac Blond. It carries an Incensed Cloud similar to the Masculine stinkbomb, Bogart Furyo.
If you can find it, a worthy sniff.
18th August, 2018

Ma Liberté by Jean Patou

Some have said that this is a substitute for Patou Pour Homme. I would say in part by structure. Both share a background of Sweetened buttery richness and build their bouquets and accord upon this. I find they diverge properly to their Female and Male corners. Ma Liberte becomes prettier, softer, quieter, fluid and dries to an Exquisite powder,reminiscent of the sillage of Tiffany for Men and Habit Rouge. Pour Homme, for me, seems peppery and stiff, with it's Geranium and Clary Sage.
Ma Liberte, in spite of it's Feminine marketing strikes me, with it's discreet powder, thoroughly Genderless in wear.
12th August, 2018 (last edited: 20th August, 2018)

Bonheur by Bortnikoff

Similar to Areej Atlantic Ambergris, however this is much smoother, warmer. I have moved from the Rock and Icy Blue Sea Air to a dry,Seaside, Cedar-ed Warehouse where, some time ago, there was trade in Spice, Vanilla, Tobacco-d Coumarin and Incense.
The Balance of the Tonka initially reminded me of Vintage Old Spice, however the dry Cedar and Clove offer little sweetness to the mix. Marigold plays it's part in this and offers a Masculine rigidity.
Beautiful, Contemplative and eventually, Creamy Goodness.
12th August, 2018

Club Design by The Zoo

Scent Tattoo.
The Grapefruit, Currant opening set against the Smoke and Floral whine of Peau d'Espagne is novel and presents a striking picture. For me,though, this sets off a Smoke of Electrical Carbon Resistor burn. Top it off with a dollop of relentless Marine Note and you have a scent, that does, do better on your clothing than skin.
Ultimately,this dries down Ugly.
Perhaps that's the point.
For this kind of thing, Beautiful, I reach for Blackbird's Taiga with it's Incense and Green Peppercorn and J. Hannah Co.'s Sloloo Silkiness.
11th August, 2018

La Vaniglia by Bois 1920

Animalic Vanilla-d Honey. Not quite as sophisticated and silky as Mona Di Orio Vanille, however it's Patchouli strip produces a dryer, higher quality Amber 114 and Blue Amber.
Vanilla is treated as a seasoning.
It also relates to Mazzolari Lui.
Beautiful, light touch of Cooling Mint to draw away from cloy.
A really clever blending of the Myrrh.
06th August, 2018

Macaque by Zoologist Perfumes

The Perfumer avoids a cloying, Honeyed mess by balancing Tannins and Citrus against this Ylang heavy
potion. Notice the sharp notes of Frankincense and Cedar are slightly blunted offering a focus upon the Lower Midrange Notes as Centre of Gravity.
Not unlike Roudnitska's creations, the perfume, of ripened boozy fruit, offers a background canvas to allow the Musk to layer in waves above. I have a vibrant 4 hours of Tutti Frutti LifeSaver deliciousness with this. Perhaps that is the result of Moss and Oud varnishy dregs.
Recommended, as it takes the focus away from WAC that bases most everything current.
05th August, 2018

Il Bacio by Borghese

A delightful collection of Peachy, Plum and sort of Melon Cocktail, supporting an in-dis-stinkable melange of Florals, that are further bleached by a base of Static and blinding White Musk Woody Aroma Chemical. Thankfully the gobs of Maltol are applied gently.

I would call this an early model of the "Freshies", that airbrush out, all the unique human-ness of the Female and Male human body.

I think I'll wear a big dose of Mazzolari Lui today. My Girl, she wears numerous squirts of the lovely, Coty Elan.

All becomes right in my Caramel World.
29th July, 2018

Musc by Molinard

This opens with a pleasant refreshing, slightly sweet, Wintergreen.
It then turns to a light, mildly spiced Amber with a Patchouli Animalic folded in.
For those who know PG L'Ombre Fauve, we have a scent that follows this path and goes home when the animals come out.
Very nice balanced, Unisex, however a little tame for us that like the warm fuzziness of L'Ombre Fauve and the Furri-ness of Russian Musk.
29th July, 2018

Rose of Kali by Neil Morris Fragrances

This starts with a voluminous cloud of Pear William, Chocolate and Myrrh. This is Pregoni-esque (Satyricon) and shocking. From there it settles to a light Floral Musk scented with dried T'aif petals in water and a vague Chalkiness. From time to time I sense a a delicate whisper of soft Rose Petal outline. Pretty, however it fails to flourish, on my Masculine skin.
29th July, 2018

Anaïs Anaïs by Cacharel

ANAIS ANAIS by Cacharel. A huge number of classical Quality notes, orchestrated with some finesse, into a glorious "Feminine" Floral Chypre. "Tuberose is kept to a dull roar" and LOV calming.
Notice the effect of Quality Sandal and Rose and it's absolutely Gorgeous Chypred drydown. This is Vintage and to my mind a Killer scent. Particularly the drydown.
To think of Gender, is meaningless.
29th July, 2018

A Scent by Issey Miyake

What a beautiful thing this is!
Hyacinth and Jasmine softly breeze through this. A fine sliver of Galbanum. Citrus, just enough to counter the sweetness of the Florals. Maybe a very light White Musk, however no blinding wall of Sorbitol.
An easy wear Laundry soapiness, Ammoniac rather than Bleach.
29th July, 2018

Genny Noir by Genny

Genny, in the original form, was a worthy Rose Chypre competitor to Aromatics Elixir. The Citric Oakmoss Patchouli soapy drydown was/is the hit.
Genny Noir is styled a little lighter on the Oakmoss and has a top spicier, with Cardamom. Still a Chypre and worthwhile to the times. Who but us old folks wear Oakmoss heavy Rose Chypres these days.
Genny Noir is lovely, recommended and an easier wear than the AE of today.
29th July, 2018

Bakir by Long Lost Perfume

While the Neroli, Orange Blossom, Rose , Chalk wall is thankfully free of a slap of Tuberose cream. I can imagine the original Monteil could have been rather interesting with real Sandalwood and possibly Ambergris. I am afraid,for me, all this needs is a slap of Tonka, Clove and Ambered Caramel and we would have a 90's Angel. I have some respect for the idea,however this saccharined Musky feasting tends to give me a headache as it has too little Citrus to counter.
29th July, 2018

Blood & Honey by Sixteen92

Noses that are familiar with the Honeyed Urine-ous accord in Leather Oud and Fecal of Furyo may find Blood and Orange opening similar. A sweet and forceful Muskiness reminiscent to Saliva and yes, Urine. Quickly it's opening steps back into the background of Incense and Hay. A bordering tobacco accord comes forth.
Drydown is Feminine, Soft and most Human. Can't stop sniffing this sexy thing.
23rd July, 2018

Shangri La by Hiram Green

Ah! How wonderful, to have someone produce a true Spiced Floral Chypre, in this day.
The Architexture is so very classical and brutal, however, it has a smooth surface as to be so very modern in presentation.
Notice the full breasted bloom and careful balance of sugar to bitter to spice to citric and to then, buttery Savon and a flip to the wood of Vetiver.
No bright walls of Aromachemical.
You want a Chypre? Here, is a Chypre.
I'm going to get some of this.
28th June, 2018