Perfume Reviews

Reviews by purecaramel

Total Reviews: 414

Figment Man by Amouage

Wearing this scent will depend upon whether you accept a base of moldy, mineral rich, plant matter laden, soily Vetiver root and stem. To this add a Civet and Ambergris Animalic and yes a touch of Urine scented with a Wildflower Honey. Mildly rotted Wood canvas-es
this beauty.
I do.
Despite the startling, poisonous, "Bathroom Black Mold" Syndrome-etic I feel, I am fascinated and drawn to the presentation of the Animalics.
It offers similar esthetic as Zoo's Scent Tattoo, where an extraordinary Grapefruit is set against a Dark poisonous background.
A strangely abhorrent attraction.

Later. A sliver of Spirit cleansing Incense slices through with an Excalibur edge.
06th January, 2019 (last edited: 13th January, 2019)

Bracken Man by Amouage

A perfectly respectable, well made Fougere.
I prefer the drier, nuanced, soapier, Dusita Issara approach.
06th January, 2019

Celima by Henry Jacques

The balance in this is superb. The top truly fascinates. Spiced Orange peel and Rum.

The Mid is Carnation, retains a whisper of Pepperiness,which I truly love. It has been folded into a swirl of Benzoin and sweetened slightly by Ylang Ylang. Oh, this is gorgeous.

Sandalwood and Vanilla base it all. What a dream!
27th December, 2018
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Et Pourtant by Henry Jacques

Starts with a rather Ammoniac or Bleached note that disturbs, and yet, I keep sniffing to find a beauty within. It vaguely scents of Smokey Cypress and Citron, and yet, I am drawn to it's clean bright landscape. A strong breeze of Menthol (the sage) almost sucks away my breath, and yet, I continue forward with an admiration of the balance, finesse and butteriness of the structure. Leather, Muget? Made for boys, and yet, the girls will appreciate it's Savon.
And Yet, here would be the main notes.
Lavender, lime
Muguet, Clary Sage
Benzoin Leather, Musk
27th December, 2018

Gardenia de HJ by Henry Jacques

pening:Freesia, Orange Blossom
Heart: Tuberose, Ylang Ylang
Base: Gardenia, Peach, Jasmine Sambac

This opens gloriously with Sweet Freesia and Orange Blossoms.
The Heart almost has me gasping for breath as there is a moment of Tuberose Indol.
The Citrus in the Peach manages to cut through Indol and have the fatty butter of the Tuberose layered in such a way as allow me to breath.
The Sambac fills my lungs quickly and allows me to just have my mind wander to the delicacy of Gardenia.
Breathtaking, literally. One of the finest Gardenia scents I have nosed.
27th December, 2018

Fantasmes by Henry Jacques

Opening: Geranium, Orange Blossom, Lemon
Heart: Oudh, Iris, Peru Balsam
Trail: Oakmoss, Sandalwood, Patchouli

Here's a real Charmer. The dance is in the heart. The O,S and P provide a beautiful Canvas. Lemon, OJ and slightly minty Geranium counterpoint.
Dry Woody Chypre for the boys. Provides a superior Masculine accord.
27th December, 2018

Musk Oil Black by Henry Jacques

Opening: Ylang ylang, olibanum
Heart: Myrrh, benzoin
Trail: Musk, bourbon vanilla, patchouli

At first I was taken by the Classical structure of this scent. Old Spice and Tooth Powder. The scents of my Grandfathers. Maternal was OS and Paternal was Myrrh Dental Hygiene.
Frankincense mixes with the soft seductive Ylang Ylang to produce a beautiful, ethereal, counterpoint to the earthbound rich golden gourmand of Myrrh folded into a Vanilla and Benzoin-ed body. Spice of Clove and Cinnamon is hinted. Patchouli? Maybe. Musk? Just enough to mingle with the human's own and suggest animalic.
The Myrrh purrs with it's stern bitter dryness, just barely breaking through the bubble of Vanilla, Benzoin sweetness.
At the last I was drawn to the balance of this HJ beauty.
27th December, 2018

No. 9 d'Igor by Henry Jacques

I will call this the "Encore" scent.
Do you think that this was perhaps Bespoked for Igor Levit?

A quite beautiful Adelhydic start. Bouquet of Muguet and Jasmine. The Hay-like top of Patchouli and Camomile adds an almost Pastoral Accord. A touch of Labdanum perhaps almost has me feeling Chypre. It is a scent I have almost always known.
A country Gentleman's Savon and Ode to Joy.
27th December, 2018

Oudh Glam Or by Henry Jacques

This scent is reminiscent of Armani Oud Imperiale.

Side by side, it is remarkable how Armani has "Cleaned up" the Oud.
Oudh Glam Or presents Cambodian Oud with the dangly bits only slightly trimmed. Depths of Smokiness and Varnish and an oily texture provide a sumptuous-ness.
Saffron is but a hint.
Patchouli provides a beautiful Camphorous Glow and a trail of Myrrh follows to add a spiciness to a lightly carameled Amber.
No sign of a Rose to me.

For the Culinary in me the Armani is a Specifically Farmed Free Range whereas the Glam is a Bird that has been set free to roam through the Forest and Fed on a Diet of Grubs, Bugs and the occasional Morel. Both are most tasty, however one tastes of the Sou
27th December, 2018

Le Jardin de Monsieur Li by Hermès

I'm inclined to think this would make a pleasant home Fragrance, if used sparingly and to cut through as poo-pourri.
A generic WAC fixative anchors to my skin and leaves me a minor "droning" headache.
For me, on skin? Yuck.

A spritz of Leather Oud works just fine in my Masculine “les petits-coins”
01st December, 2018

Collection 34 : 34 Boulevard Saint Germain Eau de Parfum by Diptyque

The 34 EDP.
So very similar to the above, with a little Volume up on the Cassis Citric to counter a base of Buttered Amber Vanilla (and I feel), touch of WAC Tonka. This provides a little more backbone, with emphasis of Baie Rose effervescence. The scent now dances into the Evening.
Very pleasant, almost festive scent.
30th November, 2018

New York Intense by Nicolaï

The first 30 minutes, like Contemporary Pour Monsieur,an overdose of pithy,bitter,citronellol creates an accord of Bug Spray.
Unlike the P.M. the combination of Herb and Spice slowly evolves into a strikingly beautiful bouquet supported by a Castoreum cushion.
Overall, it is in the vein of Bois du Portugal, Heritage and for me, a vague relationship to the Green-ness of Vintage, Vol de Nuit.
Oh and for moments an accord not unlike opening the box of fine leather shoes.
29th November, 2018

Oud Sublime by Nicolaï

Oh! What a price!
What you get, is, recognizably, a Patricia de Nicolai creation of No-Ordinary, Symphonic, Beauty. The focus is certainly to the Lower half of the Heart. The Oud seems closer to that of Organic Thai. There is a Fruit and Cognac brush stroke similar.
A balance is provided by mildly camphoured and Dandelion green-ness, perhaps bitterness of Artemisia and surprise! Nicolai's cumin cheekiness, just.
Cedar emerges from within the Chorus and gently slices through any richness.
Outlines of Rose is only a breath. No typical Rose Oud here.
The blend to the base of Castoreum, Resin and Amber together with the top notes offers a Golden, Straw, Glow.
Into over-draft I go.
27th November, 2018 (last edited: 10th January, 2019)
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Uno by Grey Matter Parfums

A beautiful opening of first rate Bergamot sans Marmalade or piercing Aromachemical. Then through out the heart it takes on a character of a Patou Pour Homme Prive Light. Cedar and Patchouli provide a base with a brushstroke of Amber.

The UNO (intenso) Extract goes on like the Sweet, Ambery, Lavender richness of Guerlain Heritage, Patou Liberte/Pour Homme.
Drydown with Violet, Castoreum Tinged, provides a Leathery image similar to Moschino Pour Homme.

Both have a mild Woody Aromachemical background, however it (UNO) is handled with some finesse, as to have these both reminisce of the above Classics.
Half a C-Note will have you 30ml.

My Girl has taken a shine to this. It's getting her lotsa compliments. Cheekily she's hidden it in her purse.
26th November, 2018 (last edited: 12th December, 2018)

Santal Complet by Fragrance Du Bois

Most of the FDB scents I have nosed, have had a gentle focus upon Fruity, Malt, vaguely Mentholated,slightly Moldy, Antiseptic aspects, in many Thai Ouds. Blending of Floral and other notes within this canvas produces an accord seamless. Presentation is an elegant soothe.
Has FDB carried this character into the realm of Sandalwood successfully?
In my opinion yes.
Lead in. Coconut Milk, fresh, it's subtle Green-ness mates with, the green-ness of Australian and rounded with the subtle green-ness of Vanilla Absolute.
Violet, so very subtle, muted and supported by the lower Floral notes of Black Pepper.
Amber provides a nutty, naturally sugared undercurrent.
Lead out. After a time, couple of hours, the freshness fades and the scent evolves to an edge to Aged, journeyed Mysore.
This, is a "Lean-in" Fragrance. What separates itself from other?
A self-effacing, Subtle Elegance.
12th November, 2018 (last edited: 27th December, 2018)

Sandalo Nobile by Nobile 1942

Sandalo Nobile has a quiet finesse. It's a build around the soft heart of sandalwood. The varnish is a leading mark, that is gently nutted by the teeny bit of Cuminy spiciness. Measured Cedared acid to draw my mind to the Aging wood pile. The resins together with a touch of Iris offer a mild natural sugar-ed carrot-ed wood to balance.
11th November, 2018

Dryad by Papillon Artisan Perfumes

Little to add to what has already been said in previous reviews save, I really don't really miss the Animalic of Vintage Greens unless I wear this brew side by side to Vol de Nuit......
How good this is?
My heart longs to this purchase, while my brain says I am satiate.
Which wins?
Most likely my heart.

Liz Moores,you are,plain Witch-ed.
10th November, 2018

Eau Sacrée by Heeley

I really like the incense scent Cardinal, however I find it a hard wear.
Eau Sacree opens with the camphoured scent of Rosemary and then blends the Incense with a canvas of Rose scented bread. The resulting drydown accord is as delicious as Phoenicia.
Easy,elegant and excellent.
10th November, 2018

Santal Nabataea by Mona di Orio

The Star, for me, in this scent,is the absolutely stunning presentation of Myrrh. The backdrop is of pure, dry, young Sandalwood, which if you listen, layers back with smooth, white, pined varnishes, ethereal. It has me feeling, younger, lighter, wealthier, much like L'Air Du Desert Marocain.

Genderless, perhaps... however it shows as Masculine to me, as it reminds me of my Grandfather.
10th November, 2018

Eau Rose by Diptyque

First glance projects an innocent, simplicity.
The Heart contains measured notes of a Rose. That of sisters. There is a whisper of Orris rigidity. It is then, I feel the thin, layered, light acidity of Bergamot, that just, illuminates, a bouquet of Lychee Currant Jam.
Moss? Wood? A fuzzy backdrop, possibly, HQ WAC, that rarely intrudes and provides a textured canvas.

The test, for me, is to find, a story told, of the Frilly, Pink, Culotte, that is Centifolia.
Simply missing, the complex Musk, of the Human Feminine.
This, is for, the girls to wear. The boys? We'll simply follow.
04th November, 2018

Eau des Sens by Diptyque

Orange Blossom sets the chalky tone for a light aromatic planted above a sneaky WAC Floral, Laundry Musk. Bitter Orange puts a touch of, well, bitter Bergamot, to mildly contrast. Nah.
04th November, 2018

Do Son Eau de Parfum by Diptyque

A draw back to Jasmine Indol just about saves this scent from the Chalk of Orange Blossom and Creamy Tuberose Suffocation.A background of scratchy Wood cuts through some, however a quick scrub and spritz of Sarrasins fills my lungs and brings me back to the Light.
03rd November, 2018

Ummagumma by Bruno Fazzolari

Wonderful Fazzolari blending and careful use of flavouring. Certainly an easier daily wear vis a vis
the Cadavre.
Certainly little overpowering Wacky in drydown.
Just a little too wax crayon for my taste.

I've just been told I'm naughty for not pointing out the incense. Yes, background drydown whispers of Heeley Cardinal add some interest, however, I'm most taken by other Fazzolari work.
Like Vetiverissimo ooh lala!
28th October, 2018

Cuirs by Carner Barcelona

Hi Quality Aromachemical Ambered Tonka, Musk with a point to a distant coffee-ed, celery-ed Leather and support upon contemporary Sandal. Yawn.
50 ml of Arbole Arbole cures any incline to this area of study.
28th October, 2018

Burvuvu by January Scent Project

Hmm! My nose hits that Castoreum at the beginning, unlike most scents in my wardrobe, which, for the most part, carry a waft up from the base.
Wood Musk, yes, Patch and perhaps a carving of Honey.
The real interesting part is the Rose. Biebel has revealed yet another facet of the Soliflore, with a match to a Geranium's stiff citric. I know,I know, Geranium Rose.
Yes, however, watch the blending. Presentation is a near perfect, Citric, Tannic Sugar balance that is set within a Cedared Forest. Dried Fungal Lichen, slightly poisoned,adds a strange sinister.
Perhaps it's Tonkin that trails an accord that seems
exquisite-ly "Magic"
27th October, 2018 (last edited: 16th January, 2019)

Fleur de Peau by Diptyque

This opens with a drier Grappa than the Chanel 18. A blast of Carrot has the Iris just a little larger than life, I suppose to attract the "American" palate. Remarkable also, is the power of the Powder, which is presented, as a contained explosion.
JTD is correct in that structure is similar to, turning the page of a Picture Book to reveal a brilliant subject, with only whispers of the other notes. Gentle Musky Rose appears, opaquely, around the edge, for me.
I expect broad North American appeal as the lay upon the skin is somewhat Vintage "Tide" clean.
The drydown has telltale signs of Givaudan WAC, however, that, does not get in the way of the "Delightful" story.
Fits nicely in my wardrobe,between the 18 and Feu Secret.
27th October, 2018

Lucid Dream by Ex Idolo

Third scent presented by Matthew.
Thirty-three was introduced at a time that Rose Oud scents had run their course and the market was
saturate. It'structure in the vein of a Rose Chypre. With Mandarin the Citronella note of Rose Absolute is a accelerated and expands the development of the extraordinary floral solo.. Oud and Patchouli provide a sumptuous canvas and a touch of Oud Saffron booster provides a sparkle to satisfy the Western palate.
Ryder, not as well received was identified early by Kafkaesque as a build on Woody Amber Kephalis. For me Kephalis acts as an incisor of the dense,highly sweetened, buttered,Amber bordering cloy. The bouquet develops slowly and provides a Masculine base note.
A sliver of beautiful Incense adds a heightening and later a drop of Jasmine rot tops with a cherry.
A similar structure is presented by Lucid Dream, however the use of a rather generic Woody fixative obscures the beautiful bouquet that I know that Zhuk does produce.
I'm afraid I can only "Kafkaesque" this one.

Until it macerates.

Careful application, reveals a rather faceted dream of counterpoint and fascinating evolve, reminiscent of Mugler's "Angel" Caramel to Patchouli. Rather than a Berry burst, we have an Osmanthic Apricot buttering. Patchouli's camphour draws against the "Cotton Candy" heated sugar and drives to a Ethereal and strangely Earthy Tobacco accord, to hit my Masculine heart.
Rose floats around and has me reminiscing about the bleaching, floral,clean of Oscar de La Renta Pour Lui.
21st October, 2018 (last edited: 02nd January, 2019)

Oud Yusuf Organic Oud by Ensar Oud

Sweet, Floral, lightly Fruited and Whiskied. Clean background of sugared Varnishes. Refined, Elegant, lightly Camphoured Drydown. Some would say Chamomile. Lovely Vanilla-ed Wood finish.
This is a softer introduction to the beauty of Oud and can be identified in some of the highest quality Oud perfumes.
08th October, 2018

Santal Sultan by Ensar Oud

The joy of this blending is that it's heart centres on the Resin Varnish,mildly Cedar-ish Profile of Sandal and incense offers a light dustiness ancient.
I haven't put my nose to the Ensar Royale, however I wonder if it shows more of the Creaminess many like in Sandal.
In any case the Sultan dances most excellent with a tiny dot of ROSECO2 or Rose Otto. Heavenly!
07th October, 2018

Angelina by Henry Jacques

From Francops review I think this review was originally assigned to Ambrose.
Rose and Sandalwood. What a beautiful marriage.
There is certainly more going on here with light spicing, ambering , Florals and a touch of Cedar.
As I opened the package, the Sandalwood of history forms a transcendent Creamy cloud. I suspect a very High Quality Australian softened with lactones with just enough of a touch of Cedar to carry the nuances of Mysore. Rose emerges from the background much like Polge Chanel's. (Egoiste, No. 18, Bois des Ilses). Classical structure and a little of Polge's cleverness, to my mind this scent proves as a Superior Bois des Ilses.
For me, this goes to the top of the list of the HJ's I will be honing in on when I visit Harrod's
29th September, 2018