Perfume Reviews

Reviews by purecaramel

Total Reviews: 424

Wild Country by Avon

Love this fougere from beginning to end. At it's Vintage basic, it follows the standard Citrus Lavender Tonka riff. The Aromatics/Florals set a melody in the Heart that doesn't really relate to the name. The powder competes with that of Habit Rouge. Is that Oakmoss that's generating a mild Animalic?
What a joy, to be able to nose journey, without disturbance from Caramelized Woody Aroma Chemical Compound, heavy doses of Ambroxin and the Calonic.
The Vanilla-ed Oakmoss and Amber seems to throw off a Honeyed Piss note, like that I find attractive, in Balenciaga HH Club, a Sheep's Ra, Boss No.1, a Fooshaear.
Mossy Musk 8 Hours and counting for 60's Vintage.
23rd March, 2019 (last edited: 24th March, 2019)

Windjammer by Avon

Opens with an astringent Citrus that overwhelms the yucky Tonka-ed Musk. Scents cheap,thrown together Barbershop. Stomach churning for me.
Almost scrubbed. Glad I didn't. Drydown is exquisitely Mossed and Wooded. Melts into my Masculine skin. The mix with Male Hormone produces an accord that has me wanting to cuddle myself. This must be Vintage.
20th March, 2019

Clint by Avon

First of all,this, is a Big hit for me.
That said the opening Adelehydes may please those who remember the Brutal opening of Aramis Vintage. It quickly dies down to Heart of Clary Sage (a fave of mine) and a Floral Woody Dry Patched Leather reminscent to the Aigner No.1 and even whispers of the sweeter, Vaunted Bel Ami et greener, Cabochard. Another joy is the Mossy, Vetiver and Do I feel a touch Labdanum? base , which carries the gently into about four hours of gentlemanly leathered, skin scent. Bliss.
I am one of those who have respect for Aramis and will reach for the Vintage Cabochard, Clint, first.
17th March, 2019
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Blend 7 by Avon

Opening is a startle as Anise and green catches. The bloom of rather perfumey Jasmine, LOV oomph as simile to that of Lauder for Men. Very pleasant Ambered Smoky Tobacco Tonka base lasts nicely on drydown. The Anise drifts in/out for a bit and had me feeling a little Knize Ten leather-ness. Fades in a couple of hours, so it invites another spritz.
Overall a beautiful composition. With timing, the Designer competition were gearing up with the likes of Paco Rabanne PH,Givenchy Gentleman etc, so it probably was overlooked by most. Shame.
17th March, 2019

Acqua di Parma Profumo by Acqua di Parma

The Vintage, is stunning, in regards to it's complex symphonic layering of Florals ala Patou 1000 Vintage. What LMVH has done, quite nicely, is to recreate this piece upon a base Calonic. This has lightened it's glow and extended it's life. It now competes with Creed's Jardin d'Almafi.
It does, however,sadly, have it melding into the Acqua di Parma Sea of Flankers. I project that it will quietly, disappear from the Brigade.
It can be a nice replacement for the growling Fruitchouli of Amouage Jubilation 25. My wife does wear that in Winter (to please me mostly).
I can wear the Amouage year round(and do)because I'm drawn to the Animalic.
A search for the Vintage will present you with a "Grand Perfume", indeed.
13th March, 2019

Deep Woods by Avon

Basic Barbershop Lavender ,Herbal, Citrus, Patchouli woodiness. Minimal sweetness. Simple structure that emphasizes no ingredient over another. Slap a little Galbanum-esque Clary Sage, Honeyed Amber and touch of Tonka and you have an outrageous scent, not unlike Paco Rabanne Pour Homme.Avon, with Deep Woods, supplies a Conservative 60's style "cleanliness" that I will take almost always over any 90's up Ozonic, Aqua nonsense.
Simply. This smells good, on me, for about 4 hours, when it melts away into a mild woodiness.
10th March, 2019

Tribute by Avon

At first sniff, a beautiful Citrus Anise-ed Lavender Aromatic, slim, sleek and Masculine. Conservative Linear drydown until hours later when then I identify a Animalic, mixed with my chest hair, pillows support and extension to the Aromatic. A mild pissy sour-ness bases this cleansing Herbal Smokiness. As has been suggested, a Sleeper. It's simple, stylish, smoothness....Rocks.
07th March, 2019

Vigorate by Avon

Divergent path from the, Leather Signatur-ed trope, that is "English Leather" "Oland" " Aigner No.1" sweetness . After the requisite Bergamot, Herbal, Woody and yes, Castoreum, Dry Amber blow, Vigorate moves closer to the "Tabac Blond" "Peau d'Espagne" dryness.

Quite frankly, I would say that this, in spite of the Castoreum Animalic, would be quite wearable for the "Girls" who smoke, with it's nod to the Caron.

Although it is very nicely blended, it carries little of the Complexity, Sillage and Finesse and indeed asking price of the "Great Ones".

Oh Yes, it dries down to a cuddly, Dry Amber Baby Powder. Heh,Heh!

I'd buy this one.
03rd March, 2019

Excalibur by Avon

Back into the Saddle, a slather of the Excalibur and a walk out to kitchen ( In my shorts) to be greeted most enthusiastically by my two hounds, insisting upon licking my face full length. The Sun is gleaming through the Windows landing upon my Queen who draws me to her bosom and whispers in my ear "Hmm, you smell good"!
Excalibur starts with a light, well balanced Herbal Lavender Fougere-like character. Instead of the Tobaccoed hay of Coumarin this moves closer to a Woody Mossy Chypre in Drydown. Not a Oakmoss bomb, however I am left with a discreet Masculine Woodiness lightly sweetened 4 hour later.
Conservative, discreet and in the vein of "Men shall not draw attention to themselves, Loudly, with their scent, as that is the reserve of the Feminine."
02nd March, 2019

Vol de Nuit Extrait by Guerlain

Vintage Parfum.

Yes, some similarities to the Habit Rouge and for me Shalimar Guerlain paintings. Where it beats those is with a Citric Marmalade start, the Green of the Galbanum and Poison moldiness of Oakmoss. A Sandalwood cushion surrounds and mellows. For me the Spiciness is rather hidden, however the Floral bouquet dances in the centre. A waxy stripe of Iris is struck across the canvas.
It leisurely, winds down to a surprising Baby powder finish.
For me, I'll take this before Shalimar and perhaps even the Habit Rouge.
05th February, 2019

Figment Man by Amouage

Wearing this scent will depend upon whether you accept a base of moldy, mineral rich, plant matter laden, soily Vetiver root and stem. To this add a Civet and Ambergris Animalic and yes a touch of Urine scented with a Wildflower Honey. Mildly rotted Wood canvas-es
this beauty.
I do.
Despite the startling, poisonous, "Bathroom Black Mold" Syndrome-etic I feel, I am fascinated and drawn to the presentation of the Animalics.
It offers similar esthetic as Zoo's Scent Tattoo, where an extraordinary Grapefruit is set against a Dark poisonous background.
A strangely abhorrent attraction.

Later. A sliver of Spirit cleansing Incense slices through with an Excalibur edge.
06th January, 2019 (last edited: 13th January, 2019)

Bracken Man by Amouage

A perfectly respectable, well made Fougere.
I prefer the drier, nuanced, soapier, Dusita Issara approach.
06th January, 2019

Gardenia de HJ by Henry Jacques

Opening:Freesia, Orange Blossom
Heart: Tuberose, Ylang Ylang
Base: Gardenia, Peach, Jasmine Sambac

This opens gloriously with Sweet Freesia and Orange Blossoms.
The Heart almost has me gasping for breath as there is a moment of Tuberose Indol.
The Citrus in the Peach manages to cut through Indol and have the fatty butter of the Tuberose layered in such a way as allow me to breath.
The Sambac fills my lungs quickly and allows me to just have my mind wander to the delicacy of Gardenia.
Breathtaking, literally. One of the finest Gardenia scents I have nosed.
27th December, 2018 (last edited: 01st February, 2019)
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Celima by Henry Jacques

The balance in this is superb. The top truly fascinates. Spiced Orange peel and Rum.

The Mid is Carnation, retains a whisper of Pepperiness,which I truly love. It has been folded into a swirl of Benzoin and sweetened slightly by Ylang Ylang. Oh, this is gorgeous.

Sandalwood and Vanilla base it all. What a dream!
27th December, 2018

Et Pourtant by Henry Jacques

Starts with a rather Ammoniac or Bleached note that disturbs, and yet, I keep sniffing to find a beauty within. It vaguely scents of Smokey Cypress and Citron, and yet, I am drawn to it's clean bright landscape. A strong breeze of Menthol (the sage) almost sucks away my breath, and yet, I continue forward with an admiration of the balance, finesse and butteriness of the structure. Leather, Muget? Made for boys, and yet, the girls will appreciate it's Savon.
And Yet, here would be the main notes.
Lavender, lime
Muguet, Clary Sage
Benzoin Leather, Musk
27th December, 2018

Fantasmes by Henry Jacques

Opening: Geranium, Orange Blossom, Lemon
Heart: Oudh, Iris, Peru Balsam
Trail: Oakmoss, Sandalwood, Patchouli

Here's a real Charmer. The dance is in the heart. The O,S and P provide a beautiful Canvas. Lemon, OJ and slightly minty Geranium counterpoint.
Dry Woody Chypre for the boys. Provides a superior Masculine accord.
27th December, 2018

Musk Oil Black by Henry Jacques

Opening: Ylang ylang, olibanum
Heart: Myrrh, benzoin
Trail: Musk, bourbon vanilla, patchouli

At first I was taken by the Classical structure of this scent. Old Spice and Tooth Powder. The scents of my Grandfathers. Maternal was OS and Paternal was Myrrh Dental Hygiene.
Frankincense mixes with the soft seductive Ylang Ylang to produce a beautiful, ethereal, counterpoint to the earthbound rich golden gourmand of Myrrh folded into a Vanilla and Benzoin-ed body. Spice of Clove and Cinnamon is hinted. Patchouli? Maybe. Musk? Just enough to mingle with the human's own and suggest animalic.
The Myrrh purrs with it's stern bitter dryness, just barely breaking through the bubble of Vanilla, Benzoin sweetness.
At the last I was drawn to the balance of this HJ beauty.
27th December, 2018

No. 9 d'Igor by Henry Jacques

I will call this the "Encore" scent.
Do you think that this was perhaps Bespoked for Igor Levit?

A quite beautiful Adelhydic start. Bouquet of Muguet and Jasmine. The Hay-like top of Patchouli and Camomile adds an almost Pastoral Accord. A touch of Labdanum perhaps almost has me feeling Chypre. It is a scent I have almost always known.
A country Gentleman's Savon and Ode to Joy.
27th December, 2018

Oudh Glam Or by Henry Jacques

This scent is reminiscent of Armani Oud Imperiale.

Side by side, it is remarkable how Armani has "Cleaned up" the Oud.
Oudh Glam Or presents Cambodian Oud with the dangly bits only slightly trimmed. Depths of Smokiness and Varnish and an oily texture provide a sumptuous-ness.
Saffron is but a hint.
Patchouli provides a beautiful Camphorous Glow and a trail of Myrrh follows to add a spiciness to a lightly carameled Amber.
No sign of a Rose to me.

For the Culinary in me the Armani is a Specifically Farmed Free Range whereas the Glam is a Bird that has been set free to roam through the Forest and Fed on a Diet of Grubs, Bugs and the occasional Morel. Both are most tasty, however one tastes of the Sou
27th December, 2018

Le Jardin de Monsieur Li by Hermès

I'm inclined to think this would make a pleasant home Fragrance, if used sparingly and to cut through as poo-pourri.
A generic WAC fixative anchors to my skin and leaves me a minor "droning" headache.
For me, on skin? Yuck.

A spritz of Leather Oud works just fine in my Masculine “les petits-coins”
01st December, 2018

Collection 34 : 34 Boulevard Saint Germain Eau de Parfum by Diptyque

The 34 EDP.
So very similar to the above, with a little Volume up on the Cassis Citric to counter a base of Buttered Amber Vanilla (and I feel), touch of WAC Tonka. This provides a little more backbone, with emphasis of Baie Rose effervescence. The scent now dances into the Evening.
Very pleasant, almost festive scent.
30th November, 2018

New York Intense by Nicolaï

The first 30 minutes, like Contemporary Pour Monsieur,an overdose of pithy,bitter,citronellol creates an accord of Bug Spray.
Unlike the P.M. the combination of Herb and Spice slowly evolves into a strikingly beautiful bouquet supported by a Castoreum cushion.
Overall, it is in the vein of Bois du Portugal, Heritage and for me, a vague relationship to the Green-ness of Vintage, Vol de Nuit.
Oh and for moments an accord not unlike opening the box of fine leather shoes.
29th November, 2018

Oud Sublime by Nicolaï

Oh! What a price!
What you get, is, recognizably, a Patricia de Nicolai creation of No-Ordinary, Symphonic, Beauty. The focus is certainly to the Lower half of the Heart. The Oud seems closer to that of Organic Thai. There is a Fruit and Cognac brush stroke similar.
A balance is provided by mildly camphoured and Dandelion green-ness, perhaps bitterness of Artemisia and surprise! Nicolai's cumin cheekiness, just.
Cedar emerges from within the Chorus and gently slices through any richness.
Outlines of Rose is only a breath. No typical Rose Oud here.
The blend to the base of Castoreum, Resin and Amber together with the top notes offers a Golden, Straw, Glow.
Into over-draft I go.
27th November, 2018 (last edited: 10th January, 2019)

Uno by Grey Matter Parfums

A beautiful opening of first rate Bergamot sans Marmalade or piercing Aromachemical. Then through out the heart it takes on a character of a Patou Pour Homme Prive Light. Cedar and Patchouli provide a base with a brushstroke of Amber.

The UNO (intenso) Extract goes on like the Sweet, Ambery, Lavender richness of Guerlain Heritage, Patou Liberte/Pour Homme.
Drydown with Violet, Castoreum Tinged, provides a Leathery image similar to Moschino Pour Homme.

Both have a mild Woody Aromachemical background, however it (UNO) is handled with some finesse, as to have these both reminisce of the above Classics.
Half a C-Note will have you 30ml.

My Girl has taken a shine to this. It's getting her lotsa compliments. Cheekily she's hidden it in her purse.
26th November, 2018 (last edited: 12th December, 2018)

Santal Complet by Fragrance Du Bois

Most of the FDB scents I have nosed, have had a gentle focus upon Fruity, Malt, vaguely Mentholated,slightly Moldy, Antiseptic aspects, in many Thai Ouds. Blending of Floral and other notes within this canvas produces an accord seamless. Presentation is an elegant soothe.
Has FDB carried this character into the realm of Sandalwood successfully?
In my opinion yes.
Lead in. Coconut Milk, fresh, it's subtle Green-ness mates with, the green-ness of Australian and rounded with the subtle green-ness of Vanilla Absolute.
Violet, so very subtle, muted and supported by the lower Floral notes of Black Pepper.
Amber provides a nutty, naturally sugared undercurrent.
Lead out. After a time, couple of hours, the freshness fades and the scent evolves to an edge to Aged, journeyed Mysore.
This, is a "Lean-in" Fragrance. What separates itself from other?
A self-effacing, Subtle Elegance.
12th November, 2018 (last edited: 27th December, 2018)

Sandalo Nobile by Nobile 1942

Sandalo Nobile has a quiet finesse. It's a build around the soft heart of sandalwood. The varnish is a leading mark, that is gently nutted by the teeny bit of Cuminy spiciness. Measured Cedared acid to draw my mind to the Aging wood pile. The resins together with a touch of Iris offer a mild natural sugar-ed carrot-ed wood to balance.
11th November, 2018

Dryad by Papillon Artisan Perfumes

Little to add to what has already been said in previous reviews save, I really don't really miss the Animalic of Vintage Greens unless I wear this brew side by side to Vol de Nuit......
How good this is?
My heart longs to this purchase, while my brain says I am satiate.
Which wins?
Most likely my heart.

Liz Moores,you are,plain Witch-ed.
10th November, 2018

Eau Sacrée by Heeley

I really like the incense scent Cardinal, however I find it a hard wear.
Eau Sacree opens with the camphoured scent of Rosemary and then blends the Incense with a canvas of Rose scented bread. The resulting drydown accord is as delicious as Phoenicia.
Easy,elegant and excellent.
10th November, 2018

Santal Nabataea by Mona di Orio

The Star, for me, in this scent,is the absolutely stunning presentation of Myrrh. The backdrop is of pure, dry, young Sandalwood, which if you listen, layers back with smooth, white, pined varnishes, ethereal. It has me feeling, younger, lighter, wealthier, much like L'Air Du Desert Marocain.

Genderless, perhaps... however it shows as Masculine to me, as it reminds me of my Grandfather.
10th November, 2018

Eau Rose by Diptyque

First glance projects an innocent, simplicity.
The Heart contains measured notes of a Rose. That of sisters. There is a whisper of Orris rigidity. It is then, I feel the thin, layered, light acidity of Bergamot, that just, illuminates, a bouquet of Lychee Currant Jam.
Moss? Wood? A fuzzy backdrop, possibly, HQ WAC, that rarely intrudes and provides a textured canvas.

The test, for me, is to find, a story told, of the Frilly, Pink, Culotte, that is Centifolia.
Simply missing, the complex Musk, of the Human Feminine.
This, is for, the girls to wear. The boys? We'll simply follow.
04th November, 2018