Perfume Reviews

Reviews by purecaramel

Total Reviews: 243

Monsieur / Monsieur Bouquet by Henry Jacques

Everything that Francop says. I'll add that the hint of Cinnamon offers a nod to the spice of the Masculine body.
The first rate ingredients and composition
push this into a glimpse of the Art of scent.
15th October, 2017

Heritage Eau de Parfum by Guerlain

The 90's Vintage EDP. Now you're talking. Think holding closer to the skin, intimate, a halo around the whole of you. Golden oil, slightly darker, vaguely dusty.
Like them all, bigtime, however the 90's Vintage EDP and EDT are so very Full Fat
19th September, 2017

Essence No. 7 : Neroli by Elie Saab

A FK study of Neroli. If you love Neroli you will love this perfume. Honeyed Orange Blossom with nuances of Cardamon and Ginger and the "Metallic" that comes off more like Chalk Wall to me.
Neroli has a natural counterpoint within it's note.
Used as a counterpoint in complex perfumes I see it as tremendously important.
Singular and as nuanced study falls flat for me.
19th September, 2017
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Epic Man by Amouage

Three areas I found this an interesting perfume.
First is the almost perfect way that Mysore has been replicated by coaxing the creaminess and the nuttiness by a somewhat judicious use of Cedar and Oud.
Second the initial blast shares a shape and accord similar to Moschino Pour Homme.
Third,the use of Castoreum draws the centre of gravity lower
much like "Epics" created in the 80's.
16th September, 2017 (last edited: 17th September, 2017)

No. 19 by Chanel

Today's EDT is Sexy. Period.
Vintage Parfum is Super Sexy. Period.
All Ages and Genders. Period.
That's my subjective view. Period.
16th September, 2017

Nombre Noir by Shiseido

Where have I scented this before? Certainly this is a refined and polite, still boozy, Ho Hang Club. However it also shares some resemblance to By Kilian Criminal of Love in a "Comet" cleaner sort of way. It is an accord that pairs Carnation and Patchouli Camphour. Rose seems a shaping ingredient.
Where Ho Hang Club wins the day is in the over the top Animalic, Honeyed Piss accord and it's availability, price.
For my most Feminine wife I prefer the quieter and tender touch of Patchouli surrounded by Peony, of Divine L'inspiratrice.
The attraction of Nombre Noir is that it is
a beautiful period piece, inspiring a number of other wonderful 80's Feminines and Masculines.
The rarity and therefore it's asking price puts it outside my field of vision.
15th September, 2017 (last edited: 18th September, 2017)

Lyric Man by Amouage

Like many of the Males here, I find the opening of LM has me thinking...this,is a beautiful perfume... for a Feminine woman or perhaps an effeminate man or even man who was wanting to express his Feminine side.

It then dries down to a slightly Generic, Genderless Soapy Rosey Wood.

Saved, in the end, by an absolutely gorgeous sliver of Frankincense in finish.

Would I purchase this for myself?

Probably not.

For my friend, who is Gay, Effeminate,Sexy, Strikingly Handsome (Both Physically and Spiritually)?

You bet.

15th September, 2017 (last edited: 18th September, 2017)

Gold Man by Amouage

Hmm. Yes, this is an outgrowth of Hermes Equipage with a Robe weaved in threads of Gold Thread. As it is worn the Hem is rubbed by my pet Civet. There is a vague urinous funk.

This is certainly the Cat's ass. I want some.
15th September, 2017

Dia Man by Amouage

Dia presents to me, the beauty of, both Static and Dynamic. Consonance and dissonance. A Mathematical, Austere, Beauty.
The Music is of leaning into Beethoven or the tap tap of a Sculptor.
Finding the familiar in what was unfamiliar a moment ago.
I have come across this in only two other perfumes.

Chanel Bois Noir and Hendley Jade.

Back to reality.

Dia presents to me......
15th September, 2017

Rose TRO Attar by Amouage

This is an Eye-Roller. I hazard to guess that this is simply, a Luxury Rose Absolute, pumped lightly with a White Musk on a backdrop of Citronella.

With Rose, I tend to be drawn to it's layers of sensuality by the use of the sting of acid to counterpoint the rich sugars.

As a young child I reached for a Beautiful Red Rose and my little hand was nicked by the thorn.

Still, I drew the Rose to my snout and breath-ed the pleasure.

Later, washing my hands, the sting, had my pleasure center touching that Rose.

To this day, the sharp sting of her nails on my back (side)has me see Roses.

After the Sting it falls into a Cushiony dream.

I would suggest this is a Masculine scent.
14th September, 2017

Essence No. 6 : Vetiver by Elie Saab

Classy Polished Scent. Understated. Think of first Dior Eau Sauvage Parfum without the Vanilla, Sugar and Root Beer overload which tends to obscure the Natural flavour of Vetiver.
What I find most interesting is the Dry Canvas of Papyrus which gently draws my mind to layers of woody flavours within the root Vetiver.
Francis Kurkdijan has this extraordinary ability to combine ingredients in such a way as to coax layers of flavours of the subject, discard the nasty bits, polish the surface and present a slightly idealized piece of Art. Fragrantica says the design is geared toward Celebrity on the Red Carpet. Yes, perhaps Opera, Theatre stars. No Hollywood here.
A superior, balanced, clean and whispered soapiness to most of the Vetivers that have come before. On to the Neroli, brief test suggests FK genius at work.
12th September, 2017 (last edited: 13th September, 2017)

Black Gold by Ormonde Jayne

Every person who is interested in nosing a scent with a gazillion of ingredients that is put together to produce something so utterly beautifully buttered. NEEDS to sniff this.

A classic Citrus countered with Clary Sage and Juniper, however it is shaped unusually
rounded, voluminous. Layered smoothly, luxuriously light, it is like an Italian dessert. Zabaglione flavoured with Orange and Aromatic liqueurs.

It has me thinking "How was that done?

The last time I've swooned was the first taste of Ferre by Ferre in it's opening of Adelhydes.

The Ormande Jayne is much more
majestically "The Empress has arrived"

The rest is just a Symphony of Purrrrr.
Rolls Royce engine indeed.

Men can wear it, however, this was made for Goddesses.

PS. At the very top of this, an Accord that reminds me of an extremely expensive Bath Oil. Is it the Ambrette?
11th September, 2017

Odeon / Petite Fleur Bleue by Godet

Forget-Me-Knots. Enchanted with these as a child. I don't remember them smelling anything like this.

Beautiful opening of a Natural Citrus and I sense Heliotrope as there is a note of Marzipan. Civet is apparent, however so well blended as to billow out the Floral Bouquet of Jasmine strangely absent of any petroleum or indol.All supported by a base of nice Sandalwood.
I bet this would have been popular with the young women.
10th September, 2017
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Cuir de Russie by Godet

Although issued as a Feminine I would say it is most Genderless. This opens gently with whiff of fresh air like Heeley's Cuir Pleine Fleur with Pepper rather than Cinnamon. There is a Jasmine petroleum oiliness. Slowly a dimensional Iris rises and spits some Lipstick.If you listen carefully you can feel the buttery Sandalwood varnish. All florals are compact and soften with time. It is here that it reminds me of the shape of Fahrenheit.
Beautiful balanced Cuir without the Sugary mess so often found in Contemporary perfumes.
10th September, 2017

Vol de Nuit by Guerlain

Vintage Parfum.

Yes, some similarities to the Habit Rouge and for me Shalimar Guerlain paintings. Where it beats those is with a Citric Marmalade start, the Green of the Galbanum and Poison moldiness of Oakmoss. A Sandalwood cushion surrounds and mellows. For me the Spiciness is rather hidden, however the Floral bouquet dances in the centre. A waxy stripe of Iris is struck across the canvas.
It leisurely, winds down to a surprising Baby powder finish.
For me, I'll take this before Shalimar and perhaps even the Habit Rouge.
08th September, 2017

Tribute Attar by Amouage

Prepare to have your head snap back and eyes to roll.
Totally Masculine,Dark, Smokey Incensed, chewable Leather animalic backbone. Reminiscent to Leather Oud.
The Rose emerges slowly from the pouch laced with Saffron tea and Jasmine refined Petroleum. Patchouli and Ganja swirl around to come off as a slightly sweetened Aromatic Tobacco. Vetiver adds a Peppery textured background.
If this sounds simple, the perfume is not.
It is rich with the nuances of first class ingredient, exploding in slow motion with a feel of pure Silk.

Opens with a Camphourous Patchouli. Otherwise almost identical, Masculine Smokey Silk.
27th August, 2017 (last edited: 28th August, 2017)

Émeraude by Coty

50's perfume.
Emeraude may very well be the first fragrance I remember. My mother must have worn this in the birthing room. I have distant oedipal associations relate to suckle.
Very similar to Guerlain Shalimar as it shares an accord of 60's pink rubbery plastic dolls.The Coty, easier to wear as a man due to it's Leathery base with a non smothering powder. Vanilla and sugar content is rigorously counterpointed by the Citrus providing beautiful balance.
Glorious, Classic scent that has suffered much from reform.

Hiram Green's Voyage shares some similarity and same finesse.
26th August, 2017 (last edited: 01st September, 2017)

Memento Mori by Aftelier

I am easily drawn to a perfume such as this.
A salty cheese and dried porcini start that draws down to over ripe fruit and a background of Animal that reaches back to a base of Saliva and distant Feces.
It's architecture shares some angles of perfumes produced by O'Driu.
It has some of the intrigue of Cepes and Tuberose, however is more vibrant in opening, eery in delivery and carries a certain Gothic in story.

Would I wear this?
Yes. It's awesome.
24th August, 2017 (last edited: 16th October, 2017)

Cacao by Aftelier

This starts off as a bit of fun. Yes, orange and chocolate are a natural pairing. My first instinct is play, however, I anticipate this will become terribly cloying as perfume. Working all day with chocolate can be a stomach churn.
In this case the Chocolate and Vanilla step back as the Jasmines combine and step forward to provide the bulk of the story.
The Citrus and Chocolate, set in the background canvas, counterpoint each other and seem to tone down the (feral)animalic and gas of the Jasmine.
Very Pretty and Feminine.
24th August, 2017

Palimpsest by Aftelier

First whiff is Animalic, Sweet, Salty and vaguely grotesque. I am alone, sitting in a lounge chair, on a private beach somewhere, Spanish Coast, sun blazing. On the side table there is a single Dark Red Yellow tinged oozing rotting Peach. I lean back into my chair, close my eyes. A moment later my eyes open and on the table is a plate of thinly sliced Proscuito and a Wine Salami. Focusing my eyes on that plane a knee high decaying wall. I am startled by how the the wall has deteriorated in such a way to take on the shape of a Skull.
This has a fascinating Repulsive/Attractive thing going on.
Second wearing Animalic, Sweet, Salty and now a note of Urine, Wine Salami, Peach Juice all ground into a leather Saddle. One moment it is mildly Equestrian similar to Eau d'Hermes, the next a harsher Peu d'Espagne or Cuir Mauresque.
It etches this vision. Art evokes.
It is something I would'nt care to wear.
24th August, 2017

Amber Tapestry by Aftelier

JTD says it all.

I much admire Aftel's thoughtful use of Sugars. There is a balance and finesse that allows the rest of the ingredients show their charm. Pear and Cinnamon with a breeze of Ambergris take the breath away. A foundation of Castoreum leads my sense to the Indols of the Jasmine Sambac. The trick of weaving Benzoin, Coumarin adds a Golden Charm.
24th August, 2017

Cuir de Gardenia by Aftelier

It's a majestic blast of Oxygen rich Grandiflorum Absolute that wacks me by the side of the head with a strip of cured pancetta, much like SMN Peau D'Espagne. A Waxy petroleum is in the background. Gardenia is not apparent until this scent softens on the skin. It comes more as a feeling of soft butter on the palette and in the finish a nod to points of spice and sulphur. Castoreum? Perhaps. Just enough to draw my nose to the light Indolic. Gentle sweetness, applied with such finesse as to provide balance and draw notice to the Floral.
24th August, 2017

Secret Garden by Aftelier

Raspberry and Citrus, lightly seasoned with sugars of the Rose. This stage reminds me of the fuzzy blue aura that exists above the dusty surface of a Raspberry.
Jasmine interweaves with Patchouli and Civet to form an incense accord that exists in aha! Bogart Furyo. This perfume is based with Benzoin Vanilla, which for me creates a golden sweetness ala Chanel's Coromandel.
Takes me back, long ago. The scent of my first girl's room, in old apartments,incense, slightly masking the Ganja from the night before. I'm sitting drinking Herbal tea.
She is standing, before the kitchen window, sun shining through her long Linen dress, revealing the shape shadow of her young body.
In Love, in my Secret Garden.
23rd August, 2017 (last edited: 29th August, 2017)

Oud Luban by Aftelier

No orange here. My sense goes directly to the Resins.
Particularly the Choya ral topped with Frankincense. At first this may seem rather linear, however my masculine sensors pick up layers of Varnishes and Turpentines and Oils.
I would say this is a fragrance most suited for the Masculine much in the same vein as Heeley's Phoenicia.
23rd August, 2017

Blackpepper by Comme des Garçons

The opening here is so very close to Freshly Cracked Black. It has nuances of sweetness of the berry.
This quickly moves to the Wood/Tonka base which becomes almost a soapy sweet canvas.
As others have said it's intensity disappears quickly. As a background the wood has an interesting soft Synthetic feel, very pleasant.
The best part of this is the opening, which is more rounded than my reference, Armani Bois d'Encens.

I prefer the Armani with it's dry austerity of dusty Black and White.
04th August, 2017

Lumiere by Aftelier

If you are looking for a Candied Synthetic Floral that announces your whining presence all day. Move along.

This is a personal perfume that had me slow down, pause, smell the Lily, from blossom to stem, to root, to soil and beyond.

The perfumer is an Artist who presents scents that are, well, just, Beautiful, Alive and Natural.

If you allow yourself to relax, you may pick up the effect of Ambergris, which is breezy billowing and more of a feeling.

Lumiere in particular, is a star.

31st July, 2017 (last edited: 01st August, 2017)

Bergamoss Solid Perfume by Aftelier

This started with the unmistakable "ButterOil" accord that identifies Oakmoss for me. I say accord because the carrier medium whether it's Beeswax, fractionated oil, adds a smooth texture which smooths the palette.
I do not identify the Bergamot as it may be a variety I am not familiar with. The Citron provides the Citrus bite to further provide the Classical Counterpoint necessary to fill out, the base canvas. At this point I fail to identify Civet, however I am taken by the use of almost hay-like, mildly camphourous cloud, formed by touches of Sage and the notable plonk of Native Sweetgrass (Tobacco) which replaces Patchouli, Lavender etc.
This all forms an interesting arc of a vague urinous souring, that for a moment has me thinking this is not good with my skin. A mild sweetness rounds the corner (Sweet Orange?) to bring it back together.
Bergamoss strikes me not so much as a perfume as a medicinal ointment to heal wounds both Physically and Spiritually. It speaks to the reverence for Oakmoss and Tobacco in Celtic and North American Native Cultures.
31st July, 2017

Cepes and Tuberose by Aftelier

First sniff " We have a winner" The Gaseous of Ammoniac Perfume of Cepes is captured to a tee.
The opening has the Gassy open of the Fungus. like Pathetique this top is used to surprise and amuse provide a ammoniac balloon to highlight the heart, which in this case the Dreaded Tuberose. Trouble is that it brings the Love fllower along gently and concentrates upon the essense of the beast which is somewhat vegetal dry. This is highly contrary to the Violently Indolic overally buttered, overally sweet fruity barf inducing presentation of the time.
So this perfume, for me, comes off as a splendid indication of the tender layered beauty of the Tuberose profile.
A beautifully balanced,nuanced, artistic piece that could be presented as an Ice cream flavour savoury.
While the Boletus accord is not true, it presents with a billow, Tuberose as a Queen.

My opportunity to stop worrying and learn to Love the Tuberose.

31st July, 2017

Amber Oudh by Rasasi

There's more going on here than just Amber and Oud. Tinged with a quiet Saffron a small bouquet of Rosy Florals supported by a Light white Musk.
Oud? Well,okay.Tonally yes.
A touch of Oud butter, Australian Sandalwood and polished bottling, Eau de Parfum labeling and it could sell beside the 500USD bottles.
Beautiful, Linear and a fine example of Eastern styling.
A cut above many other reasonably priced oils in the game.
23rd July, 2017

Oud Shamash by The Different Company

This opens with a blinding rush of fruit alcohol that acts as an assault to have your mind blanched for the symphony that follows. A clean landscape of a planed sheet of hardwood. Cracked Pink Pepper and chipped Cinnamon bark is smashed on to the surface. At this stage my first impression is slivers of Gucci Pour Homme 1.
I bring my eyes down to the surface and stare along the plane and sense the Rose beckoning across the Universe along that line. My second impression is that of Chanel No.18.
Deep down is central point of wood varnishes layered, which are to my sense the whispers of the Laotian.
Oh Yes. A light envelope of Saffron surrounds it all to add a quiet sensualness.
This is a presentation of Oud perfume that follows the same line as MFK and further Fragrance du Bois.
With an abstract feel of the Chanel 18.
Ultimately this fades reminiscent of the Tolu resin in Woodcut.
I may have to have some of this.

As I have been wearing this, I keep thinking, this structure I have felt before.
Sure enough, Copal Azur. Bertrand Duchaufour.
11th July, 2017 (last edited: 06th October, 2017)