Perfume Reviews

Reviews by purecaramel

Total Reviews: 258

Jazz Prestige by Yves Saint Laurent

Opens with a cacophony of notes and fruity sweetness that had me wince. Like many from the 80's era a bit overwhelming in the opening, kind of like players tuning their instruments with some discord.
Then the hook of Astringent(Bergamot)counters and mates with the Anise, Caraway, Ginger, now I'm finding the groove. A base of Oakmoss, Patch and Sandalwood provides a Lansdcape for a Geranium, Carnation and rose mix almost reminiscent to Equipage. I am a sucker for the Amber with a bit of Benzoin folded in. The Fir makes a showing and I finally recognize the Lavender and a sprinkle of Cinnamon.

All this goodness in a 1.7 oz unopened cellophane untouched an a YSL sticker.

29.99 CAD delivered yah!!
14th December, 2017 (last edited: 17th December, 2017)

Y by Yves Saint Laurent

1978 Extrait?

This goes on oily and has the skin glisten.

This is a BIG, Feminine Chypre. A plethora of Floral notes.
A blast of Galbanum and Fine Quality Citrus pumps into a dramatic Aldehydic Cloud opening. A powerful Bouquet is sweetened by Honey and countered with the slight acidity of Peach.
Support is provided by an extraordinary composition of Amber,Patch and Civet folded into Golden Benzoin.
Oakmoss creams it with a slight savoury and billow which dimensionalizes this into the dramatic. Powdery goodness in the end.
I am sure that Armani looked back at this while developing his first Feminine.
In Y's brush strokes I can see Yves Saint Laurent signature in the later 1971 Rive Gauche.
Recommended in Vintage, surely.
11th December, 2017

Diorissimo by Christian Dior

80's Vintage Extrait

Crikey! A big wallop of Muguet. Similar breathtaking, send your head spinning, burst of Yeasty Floral as Lutens Purple Sarrasins. It differs in that Civet grabs the nose hairs and folds the path into a magical land, through of the Month of May.
Galbanum draws one into the fresh Green-ness. Those little White flowers, set against the bright lushness, have me feeling, I am being devoured.
Nostalgic whispers of my Maternal Grandmother, who loved all of the Lily family, particularly the Muguet.
She was Viking fierce with her love and although I appreciated her fragrant sillage, I was a little frightened of her, as a youngster.
With Diorisimmo, one needs to be comfortable with a little of the LOV Progesteronic Feminine strength.
Being an extrait, a half an hour in and I am captivated by the slightly soapy, billowing halo that surrounds my corpus. Here, I can recognize the Roudnitska Symphonic orchestration. Diorisimmo treats the LOV with the respect that it deserves.
For myself, I would tend to take my Muguet, in the likes of it's note in Eucris etc.
This scent is made for Women, who are most Feminine and carry a core of burning fierceness, within an exterior, slightly cool.
Recommended in 80's Vintage, surely.
30th November, 2017
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Givenchy Gentleman (new) by Givenchy

This was on my testlist. Gentlemen I wore in the 70's and it was simply awesome. If you go here

entry 130.

A respected Reviewer offers hilarious review
how it compares.

Now on my never try list.
23rd November, 2017 (last edited: 24th November, 2017)

Eau du Sud by Annick Goutal

Dirty, Dirty Pour Monsieur. This scents vaguely of, day old scalp, underneath a bouquet of Citrus brightness anchored in an Oakmoss Savon.
Pour Monsieur is for the Formal. This is for the licentious after Party.
23rd November, 2017

1000 by Jean Patou

85 Vintage
This is a perfume of real beauty. A big puff of Civet to warm the nostrils. A slap of something of heat maybe Eucalyptus and the Geranium. A burst of Florals, Rose and Jasmine,Galbanum somehow seem etched and measured with unusual precision. While this bouquet is dancing, notice the puff of Sandol, not predominent, however it is clearly High Quality. A whisper of Violet delights my senses. Orris folds into the package, never obtrusive, just there. You'll feel a nod to present day CDR leather in the drydown. Very much about the Blending and Paint Strokes which are to be seen in Pour Homme and Pour Homme Prive.
Isn't Oakmoss wonderful, particularly when used by a master. Beautiful how it scents luxurious to the end and then some.
Probably a little ornate for daily wear, however, like the Masculines this needs to be considered.
I am a guy, I'd wear it, because it is so very, perfectly presented.
23rd November, 2017

La Nuit by Paco Rabanne

Darvant pretty much explains the story of this beauty. It's structure is classical. I recognize the Civet, Oakmoss supported Honey Bouquet expanding, tarted by the Citrus.
The Canvas is dense and a Savon of Rose Chypre. Honeyed Leather indeed. Perhaps because of the Basil Anisic in this, I find ever so slightly more, wearable as a Male,than the "Shocking". It carries the Civet-Oakmoss laden start billowing and dries to almost a dirtier Pour Monsieur.
Then again, my wife would wear this, most nobly, as it is Reminiscent of it's cousins Paloma Picasso and Armani.
18th November, 2017 (last edited: 19th November, 2017)

Shocking by Elsa Schiaparelli

50's or 60's sample I am told.
Full blast of Adelehydic Acetone start, like experiencing No.5 first time in the 70's. For me the Civet is folded into the Bouquet Floral, Aromatics and presents in the background a gentle nod to the Leather of Peau d'Espagne. In front is a wonderful musky Laundry soap buoyed by the Oakmoss and Bergamot.
I get a pulses of Honey Animalic, on occasion, that really isn't pissy, however draws sensuously, to the Feminine. Funny, that not many people note, the Ambergris Sea (Salty Oysterlike)breeze that brings the Perfume to some buoyancy sans the scratchiness of Synthetic. There is just enough Patchouli to make this Genderless.
Really though, this is the kind of perfume, that on Feminine skin, melds with the natural Muskiness and has me feeling as a Stallion. My wife will be testing this! Yummy!
16th November, 2017

Oland by Avon

Side by side with the excellent 1975 Etienne Aigner this scent may seem Old Fashioned, however the structure, colour and statement is similar enough to have it share a relationship. Perhaps Olander is an older brother who was farmed out to the country in his youth lacking some little bit of Sophistication of the younger.
The Aigner is slicker,rounded and carries a richer more complex drydown and polish. A scent of the well-heeled Leather set City set.
Oland is well worth a try, as it trades rather inexpensively.

The Aigner is almost extinct.
15th November, 2017

1776 Russian Leather by Elsha

For me, this opened with a Guerlain-esque Bergamot pithyness sweetened like my Habit Rouge. A Plasticky leather in the background and mild spice and incense in the centre. Light on the Oakmoss.

Light, pleasant Leather with nods to Guerlain Shalimar and Habit Rouge.

I could wear it, however it smells very much sexier on my Girl.
30th October, 2017

Narciso Rodriguez for Her by Narciso Rodriguez

This scents like my Grandmother's sheets. They were laundered in a 60's floral detergent. Hung dry in the clean country air. Folded and placed in a Cedar chest.
Now they smelled strongly of Cedar and the Floral was faint in the background.

This is opposite, Floral is in your face and Cedar in the background. Ultimately this is Woody Aroma Chemical (WAC)Saccharine.
It gets a thumbs up because it reminds me of my Gran.
Don't know that I would wear it or have my wife wear it though.
26th October, 2017

Bois du Portugal by Creed

This is all that 90% of the Reviews here say of it.
This was built for Old Guys (60)like me. A little less stuffy than Guerlain Heritage, however it is same era between late 80's early 90's. Masculine elegance with a soul,for the over 40's. Better than most of the high end stuff from Tom Ford. I may have to find a draw of this. Yummy!
25th October, 2017

Borneo 1834 by Serge Lutens

A Patchouli between Coromandel and PG L'Ombre Fauve with a Fumerie Turque smokiness.
The overall feel has me much like FT feeling sepia non bright tone. Has the Chocolate of Coromandel and none of the Pastry. Dry Tobacco with a background of vague sweetness in the canvas. It captures a whisper of the animalic lactose sweatiness of L'Ombre Fauve with a slightly more complex finish. The glittery gold bits of Coromandel are absent ,however the Cacao puts this into the Gourmand. A fave of the Lutens for me, however the the other two fulfill my needs for this type of Patchouli.
20th October, 2017 (last edited: 21st October, 2017)
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Monsieur / Monsieur Bouquet by Henry Jacques

Everything that Francop says. I'll add that the hint of Cinnamon offers a nod to the spice of the Masculine body.
The first rate ingredients and composition
push this into a glimpse of the Art of scent.
15th October, 2017

Heritage Eau de Parfum by Guerlain

The 90's Vintage EDP. Now you're talking. Think holding closer to the skin, intimate, a halo around the whole of you. Golden oil, slightly darker, vaguely dusty.
Like them all, bigtime, however the 90's Vintage EDP and EDT are so very Full Fat

The current opens brighter, carries close to the Vintage in the Heart. Drydown reveals the loss of butter in Oakmoss and Sandalwood.
The Pyramid above is nonsense. There is certainly more going on in the Vintage and the new is perhaps using compounds.
The current is very good and if there was no Vintage left, I would be satisfied.
19th September, 2017 (last edited: 24th October, 2017)

Essence No. 7 : Neroli by Elie Saab

A FK study of Neroli. If you love Neroli you will love this perfume. Honeyed Orange Blossom with nuances of Cardamon and Ginger and the "Metallic" that comes off more like Chalk Wall to me.
Neroli has a natural counterpoint within it's note.
Used as a counterpoint in complex perfumes I see it as tremendously important.
Singular and as nuanced study falls flat for me.
19th September, 2017

No. 19 by Chanel

Today's EDT is Sexy. Period.
Vintage Parfum is Super Sexy. Period.
All Ages and Genders. Period.
That's my subjective view. Period.

Wearing the 88 Extrait today has me cognizant of the High Quality of the ingredients and composition.
Most recent tasted similar. Henry Jacques carries this quality.
16th September, 2017 (last edited: 19th November, 2017)

Epic Man by Amouage

2008-1010 Vintage
Three areas I found this an interesting perfume.
First is the almost perfect way that Mysore has been replicated by coaxing the creaminess and the nuttiness by a somewhat judicious use of Cedar and Oud.
Second the initial blast shares a shape and accord similar to Moschino Pour Homme.
Third,the use of Castoreum draws the centre of gravity lower
much like "Epics" created in the 80's.
16th September, 2017 (last edited: 11th November, 2017)

Nombre Noir by Shiseido

Where have I scented this before? Certainly this is a refined and polite, still boozy, Ho Hang Club. However it also shares some resemblance to By Kilian Criminal of Love in a "Comet" cleaner sort of way. It is an accord that pairs Carnation and Patchouli Camphour. Rose seems a shaping ingredient.
Where Ho Hang Club wins the day is in the over the top Animalic, Honeyed Piss accord and it's availability, price.
For my most Feminine wife I prefer the quieter and tender touch of Patchouli surrounded by Peony, of Divine L'inspiratrice.
The attraction of Nombre Noir is that it is
a beautiful period piece, inspiring a number of other wonderful 80's Feminines and Masculines.
The rarity and therefore it's asking price puts it outside my field of vision.
15th September, 2017 (last edited: 18th September, 2017)

Lyric Man by Amouage

Like many of the Males here, I find the opening of LM has me thinking...this,is a beautiful perfume... for a Feminine woman or perhaps an effeminate man or even man who was wanting to express his Feminine side.

It then dries down to a slightly Generic, Genderless Soapy Rosey Wood.

Saved, in the end, by an absolutely gorgeous sliver of Frankincense in finish.

Would I purchase this for myself?

Probably not.

For my friend, who is Gay, Effeminate,Sexy, Strikingly Handsome (Both Physically and Spiritually)?

You bet.

15th September, 2017 (last edited: 18th September, 2017)

Gold Man by Amouage

Hmm. Yes, this is an outgrowth of Hermes Equipage with a Robe weaved in threads of Gold Thread. As it is worn the Hem is rubbed by my pet Civet. There is a vague urinous funk.

This is certainly the Cat's ass. I want some.
15th September, 2017

Dia Man by Amouage

Dia presents to me, the beauty of, both Static and Dynamic. Consonance and dissonance. A Mathematical, Austere, Beauty.
The Music is of leaning into Beethoven or the tap tap of a Sculptor.
Finding the familiar in what was unfamiliar a moment ago.
I have come across this in only two other perfumes.

Chanel Bois Noir and Hendley Jade.

Back to reality.

Dia presents to me......
15th September, 2017

Rose TRO Attar by Amouage

This is an Eye-Roller. I hazard to guess that this is simply, a Luxury Rose Absolute, pumped lightly with a White Musk on a backdrop of Citronella.

With Rose, I tend to be drawn to it's layers of sensuality by the use of the sting of acid to counterpoint the rich sugars.

As a young child I reached for a Beautiful Red Rose and my little hand was nicked by the thorn.

Still, I drew the Rose to my snout and breath-ed the pleasure.

Later, washing my hands, the sting, had my pleasure center touching that Rose.

To this day, the sharp sting of her nails on my back (side)has me see Roses.

After the Sting it falls into a Cushiony dream.

I would suggest this is a Masculine scent.
14th September, 2017

Essence No. 6 : Vetiver by Elie Saab

Classy Polished Scent. Understated. Think of first Dior Eau Sauvage Parfum without the Vanilla, Sugar and Root Beer overload which tends to obscure the Natural flavour of Vetiver.
What I find most interesting is the Dry Canvas of Papyrus which gently draws my mind to layers of woody flavours within the root Vetiver.
Francis Kurkdijan has this extraordinary ability to combine ingredients in such a way as to coax layers of flavours of the subject, discard the nasty bits, polish the surface and present a slightly idealized piece of Art. Fragrantica says the design is geared toward Celebrity on the Red Carpet. Yes, perhaps Opera, Theatre stars. No Hollywood here.
A superior, balanced, clean and whispered soapiness to most of the Vetivers that have come before. On to the Neroli, brief test suggests FK genius at work.
12th September, 2017 (last edited: 13th September, 2017)

Black Gold by Ormonde Jayne

Every person who is interested in nosing a scent with a gazillion of ingredients that is put together to produce something so utterly beautifully buttered. NEEDS to sniff this.

A classic Citrus countered with Clary Sage and Juniper, however it is shaped unusually
rounded, voluminous. Layered smoothly, luxuriously light, it is like an Italian dessert. Zabaglione flavoured with Orange and Aromatic liqueurs.

It has me thinking "How was that done?

The last time I've swooned was the first taste of Ferre by Ferre in it's opening of Adelhydes.

The Ormande Jayne is much more
majestically "The Empress has arrived"

The rest is just a Symphony of Purrrrr.
Rolls Royce engine indeed.

Men can wear it, however, this was made for Goddesses.

PS. At the very top of this, an Accord that reminds me of an extremely expensive Bath Oil. Is it the Ambrette?
11th September, 2017

Odeon / Petite Fleur Bleue by Godet

Forget-Me-Knots. Enchanted with these as a child. I don't remember them smelling anything like this.

Beautiful opening of a Natural Citrus and I sense Heliotrope as there is a note of Marzipan. Civet is apparent, however so well blended as to billow out the Floral Bouquet of Jasmine strangely absent of any petroleum or indol.All supported by a base of nice Sandalwood.
I bet this would have been popular with the young women.
10th September, 2017

Cuir de Russie by Godet

Although issued as a Feminine I would say it is most Genderless. This opens gently with whiff of fresh air like Heeley's Cuir Pleine Fleur with Pepper rather than Cinnamon. There is a Jasmine petroleum oiliness. Slowly a dimensional Iris rises and spits some Lipstick.If you listen carefully you can feel the buttery Sandalwood varnish. All florals are compact and soften with time. It is here that it reminds me of the shape of Fahrenheit.
Beautiful balanced Cuir without the Sugary mess so often found in Contemporary perfumes.
10th September, 2017

Vol de Nuit by Guerlain

Vintage Parfum.

Yes, some similarities to the Habit Rouge and for me Shalimar Guerlain paintings. Where it beats those is with a Citric Marmalade start, the Green of the Galbanum and Poison moldiness of Oakmoss. A Sandalwood cushion surrounds and mellows. For me the Spiciness is rather hidden, however the Floral bouquet dances in the centre. A waxy stripe of Iris is struck across the canvas.
It leisurely, winds down to a surprising Baby powder finish.
For me, I'll take this before Shalimar and perhaps even the Habit Rouge.
08th September, 2017

Tribute Attar by Amouage

Prepare to have your head snap back and eyes to roll.
Totally Masculine,Dark, Smokey Incensed, chewable Leather animalic backbone. Reminiscent to Leather Oud.
The Rose emerges slowly from the pouch laced with Saffron tea and Jasmine refined Petroleum. Patchouli and Ganja swirl around to come off as a slightly sweetened Aromatic Tobacco. Vetiver adds a Peppery textured background.
If this sounds simple, the perfume is not.
It is rich with the nuances of first class ingredient, exploding in slow motion with a feel of pure Silk.

Opens with a Camphourous Patchouli. Otherwise almost identical, Masculine Smokey Silk.
27th August, 2017 (last edited: 28th August, 2017)

Émeraude by Coty

50's perfume.
Emeraude may very well be the first fragrance I remember. My mother must have worn this in the birthing room. I have distant oedipal associations relate to suckle.
Very similar to Guerlain Shalimar as it shares an accord of 60's pink rubbery plastic dolls.The Coty, easier to wear as a man due to it's Leathery base with a non smothering powder. Vanilla and sugar content is rigorously counterpointed by the Citrus providing beautiful balance.
Glorious, Classic scent that has suffered much from reform.

Hiram Green's Voyage shares some similarity and same finesse.
26th August, 2017 (last edited: 01st September, 2017)