To go short, Blamage smells like a blamage... His perfumes are getting tiresome- instead of trying some get some finesse in his perfumes, he just goes on with the 'on-steroids' kind of scentprofiles. Loud screaming synthetics, mixed in a slobby fashion- give people no time to smell what actually is going on. And then pack it in fancy bottles and packaging, (which is very cleverly done btw)and sell in at insane crazy over the top prizes. In my opinion Alessandro Gualtieri is doing a better job in marketing than in making perfumes. But in the end, his perfumes are 'famous' and sell like hell, so he is doing something very good.
Green Land - Trussardi
This smells more like an aroma for a new soda-drink than a scent to wear on human skin.
A real mystery that this is actually bottled and being sold... its hollow, shallow and weightless.
Basically a fruity Cool Water dipped in cis-3-hexanol and vanille-gingerbread wrapped in an airy plastic leather note. For whats worth it, I like the zesty orange note in it.
A somewhat flat and boring perfume with a very interesting interpretation of the way that myrrhe could smell like. The perfume doesnt change that much and lacks depth, it fails to tell a solid, moving story but it surely has its moments. Untill its dry-out it smells too synthetic for me with a big hissy red pepper-like saffron note that seems to carry on forever. But its intense darkish smoky undertone is lovely and halfway its dry-out it manages to catch a natural oil-like note in its benzoin and vanille tonality that fills this perfume up with a round- and smoothness that really connected with my skin. For me, this perfume shines as a roomspray when it gets the room to breath and doesnt get smothered by the skin. This perfume benefits from floating in the air as a consistent cloud of abstract oriental happiness because it lacks a good structured and evolving blending, it somehow lacks a smooth transmission from top to base. On my skin I got bored with it very quickly, but it works miracles in small rooms as I use it as my favorite toilet-refresher right now. Very overprized.
22nd April, 2015 (last edited: 23rd April, 2015)
Trussardi - UOMO
Very lightweight and airy in comparison with the old version but still it manages to catch a certain magic that suits it well. A difficult job to reformulate this one without the big buget, artistic freedom and the ban on oakmoss, so I think Mr. Guichard should get the praise he deserves. Somehow I smelled this all before but there is something in its structure, an interlink between its ingredients that makes it give a good tightness, focus and grip. Nice crispy spicy-lemony opening with an airy green minty-anisic mid and a soft woody-mossy base with a leather side to it that reminds of fresh tobacco. It has a persistent and calm flow to it that is very often missing in modern (synthetic) perfumes. Good perfume for young uomo's.
ELDO - Delicious Closet Queen
They better take this out of the collection because we already have Van Gils and a 100.000 more scents that have a similar structure. Compact and rigid with a cheap and unoriginal feel to it that smells too sweet and 'juicy' - like a marinade to simmer chicken in. Nasty stuff with a penetrating radiation that makes a great candidate for a bath-soap in cheap hotels.
Fueguia's - Ballena de la Pampa
A weak fragrance, not made with passion and/or skill. It somehow ends with a salty, sour-musky tone, smelling like something that died in a garbage-bin.
All i get is a salty beeswax note that doesnt change one bit, smelling like dried chili-peppers on fresh cotton blankets, moving to a soft resinous-sweet beeswax/incense note that grows in strength and radiation, together with minty herbaceous majoram and a spiciness that reminds of garam masala. If they really used 12 different kinds of musks here, than they did a not so good job - its dryout smells weak, stinky in a bad way and too transparant, lacking character. More a scent than a perfume and not really enjoyable wearable on a human being.
Michael Kors - Sexy Amber
A very averse perfume with a sharp fantasy flowery start - heavily aldehyde-overdosed, that ends in a sharp synthetic 'liquid' gourmand/amberous-way with a dreadful 'high-pitched' sweet tonality and a nasty, chemical warfare cloud-like radiation. Definitely not sexy, more like Slutty Amber...
F. Malle - French Lover
Hard to review properly because this one lasted only for 30 minutes on my skin - tested twice. It starts out with a very hot (chili)peppery opening together with a big green galbanum note making it smell like snapped green stems with smoky and moist earthy undertones. It basically puts together a area of green, pungent notes like greenish zesty petitgrain-like orange, angelica, and vetiver against the radiant warm spicy-resinous of incense, the powdery fleshy-rooty note of iris and dry spicy cedarwood. A very interesting combination and made with skill but at the same time reminding too much of Amouage and the Betrand Duchaufour-way of using incense. Longetivity is horrible short - gone in 30 minutes...(it could be just my skin...)
Lorenzo Villoresi - Aura Maris
A very average sea-breezed Eau de Cologne that tries to imitate all of its lookalikes made before it. Mixed in a slobby fashion with a nice lemony opening, a soapy lavender with a soft neroli floralness, and a cooked green spiciness that floats on sea-breezy and transparant-woody synthetics. It has a 'misty' feel to its structure that misses a certain grip to keep my attention on a high level. Pleasant it is, but not more than that - it is smelled, seen and forgotten...
Parfum d'Empire - Iskander
Great natural, round fruity, fresh peppery-lemon opening with a fixed warmth that grows bigger by the clever use of prickly-spicy and green-herbaceous tarragon alongside coriander, that’s being dipped in a bath of lavender, orangeblossom and oakmoss, creating a very smooth and soft eau de cologne-styled perfume that altogether morphs into a deep darkish green tonality with a salty labdanum/incense touch. Very simply done in a evenly effective and efficient way, smelling transparent as well as abundant with a somewhat introvert joy upon its sleeve, showing a shy playfulness that’s full of liveliness and warmth. A very comfortable perfume that doesn’t draw a lot of attention but says many things with few words.
Huitieme Art - Monsieur
Holy Moly! What a monsterous perfume this is...always a bit more dirty than clean and with a big flavorness - layers off spices and wood with an excellent 'warm' expression to it. Its opening smells like stepping into an old 19th-century grocery-store which sells all the spices in the world, being kept in drawers made from cedarwood.
From the rumbling dusty woodchips note on, it avalanches into a meltingpot of spices and wood, making it smell camphorous and terpenic, sharpish and sour-bitter; which in here that’s a good thing because the aromatics smell in a natural intense way and there is always a soft resinous-balsamic note close by to give it balance. It catches dark and smoky notes ,as well as a powdery one, and builds up in layers of aromatic that displays a dangerous poisonous bitter-tonality that keeps me very alert. Moving from the patchouli-woodchips to fresh lime, greenish fir, anisic clary sage, spicy cumin, soft floral lavender, hot saffron, salty bay leaf/lavas, balsamic fir-balm, prickly cederwood/patchouli, gasoline-like vetiver, and soft, gritty oakmoss.
So wild and hectic the start is, so evenly consistent and 'on-point' its dryout is - very clear, clean and with a bright focused green-spicy flow and smoky undertone to it. Maybe a bit too much chemical smelling, and doesn’t chance once it is settled. I somehow expected a much more balsamic, big oakmossy and dirty animalic dryout after its intense first half - making it smell a bit too 'simplistic'. But overall this perfume has a good vision, but surely not to everyone's liking, including myself - I cant stand its tidy dirtiness and the kakafonie of spices and wood that somehow seem to disorientate my search for beauty and refinement; but maybe that’s just the beauty of this perfume.
Its like a dirty and unshaved, ready for a shower-like George Clooney that still would gain respect and status at a dinner-party because underneath its cover there is a professional focus and warm charm that speaks in a much more direct and impulsive way to people than its appearance. Monsieur Monster tries to walk away from being decent and transform itself into something more than that...
Grossmith - Golden Cyphre
This is a perfume that suffers from anorexia. It starts with a nice natural cologne-like spicy-fruity blast that smell promising, but for me this is the best part. From that moment it doesn’t grow into something 3-dimensional but more behaves in a lightweight and dull way which shows very little expression. No sharp green tone that gives it sparkle or a surprising effect, instead it smells 'tasteless' - it misses the salt and pepper. It catches a minty fruit-fleshy note and settles down in a very mild airy oakmoss note. A very light, unthrillingly pretty little thing, that is very heavely and thrillingly overprized. A good perfume for anorexia-patients, nevertheless. But neither flesh nor fish…
Frederic Malle - Noir Espices
This is a perfume that clearly suffers from an overdose of geranium, making it smell cheap, like mosquito-spray and/or citronella, which to my nose is one the most 'avoid if possible'-notes in perfumery. It gives Noir Espices a top-heavy top while its base is rather lightweight, giving it a very strange dynamic feel. Good materials, but it gives me the impression that it was made in a hurry because overall there is little refinement to detect - it smells sharp, crude and sharp-edged most of the time. Its nice when the basenotes get more apparent and the rest gets toned down, finding a more airy-feel giving it a more balanced character; still, it only gets a soft elegance and juicy flow till late in its dry-out making me wonder what was all the noise about... Overall, this perfume suffers from a lack of identity - a clear balanced form in which it can find a language of its own. Its dryout is the most expressive part - mixing up creamy-woody and spicy-woody notes with a brushed off mentholic-patchouli note that gives it an airy lift. To me it smells like trying to enjoy eating a lemon-curd in a very hot and cramped traditional Indian kitchen, where they are preparing marinades from crushed and baked spices in large foodpans. But then, without the spirit of human warmth...
Lancome - Tresor
This is a true Arc de Triomphe of modern perfumery. A modern classic with an unrivaled radiant moist softness and a smooth powdery tone with a dark soil-like and smoky tobacco-leaves undertone; being held together by a honey-like apricot/rose sweetness and a warm green-like oily sandalwood base, avoiding the vanilla-amber trap. Somehow it takes a long time before developing a decent projection on my skin that convinces me of its true quality. It bares a fatty wool-like warmness through its structure that gives it a magical twist. A very sincere and convincing perfume with a very elegant, honest character and a inviting woman-like quality to it - somehow it smells like who soft the skin of a woman can feel. Great overall projection with a lively, unforced and slight modest and introvert side to it. Truly wonderful stuff, that is so good I wish I was born a woman… Tresor is a monumental treasure.
Bvlgari - AQVA amara
Hilariously bad fragrance from Bvlgari that is named after a planet out of a book from Jack Vance, and smells so indeterminated and alienated that I got the feeling it was designed for another lifeform from outerspace. Its boneless, hollow, suffers from weightlessness and smells like an empty plastic container that has been used to store very cheap jasmine-scented tea. Or like an empty aquarium that needs cleaning. I cant decide.
30th May, 2014 (last edited: 01st June, 2014)
YSL - Manifesto
A proper and clean perfume which seems to behave like a toned-down LL with a salty-licorice and banana-note with the stickiness of black-currant confiture, before reaching a honey-sweet jasmine note and settles down in a gingerbread-like vanilla/sandalwood custardness and a bitter almond cloudyness. Its nice to smell but behaves too much on the save side and is moderate refined and focused - a pretty little thing that’s equally hard to like and/or dislike; meaning that it has a certain quality but surely it isn’t memorable. Its a good perfume to carry with you as spare one - good to save a situation when a woman needs a 'quick' scent to accentuate her feminity...
Guerlain - La Petite Robe Noire
An embarrassing, far below average perfume from Guerlain of which I’m not sure of for whom it was made in mind - or why in the first place. I just cannot picture this being worn by a human being - more like a flavoring dress-up for tea or candies... Its a too crude, harsh, loud, overdone and overly too sweet perfume that smells awfully much like all the candies in the world stuffed in a very warm candy-store, creamy sugar-coated bitter almonds in liquid form, overripe black-cherries and/or like getting woke up early in the morning with a cotton-candy pushed into your face. It tries to imitate LL and Angel at the same time and fails by doing so; it tries to be trendy and hip, but in the end screams like a spoiled little kid that wants more candy but doesn’t get anymore. How can this wear the Guerlain-label?
28th May, 2014 (last edited: 08th June, 2014)
Clinique - Aromatics Elixer
This is more like an anti-Elixer that tries to diminish the human vitality, and smells as dry and musty as half-hardened cement out of a cement-mixer, or an old gravel-road on a very hot day with no whiff of wind. This perfume misses refinement, juice and good quality natural materials. It smells strangely old and 'swollen' - like it has been cut open, striped from its vital organs and stuffed full with wadding before being sutured; there is no airiness, and nothing that makes it a bit cheerful. Good stuff to accentuate a bad day at the office or to wear on a funeral - it acts dull, with no living movement in sight. This perfume 'tastes' like a Californian pinot noir-wine instead of one out of Bourgogne - with its unrivaled velvety finesse and roundeur. Let Aromatics Elixer stay where it belongs...
Christian Dior - Fahrenheit
If this one can make the temperature of your blood rise more than 1 fahrenheit, than your probably a very ice-cold person who needs all the little bit of warmth you can get; or dead... A weak sharp-peppery opening with a smudged greenness that smells musty and like overcooked vegetables with an anisic touch, grows into a bitter lavender note, and a weak sweet fruity note that reminds of water-ice where the flavor almost totally has been sucked out of. Then, like a big surprise, it grows into a rubber-leathery note with a clean transparent cedarwood/palo santo note with a Cool Water-like airiness; unpleasantly musty bitter-sour smelling, finished off with a big splash of iso e super. A big disappointment in terms off quality and originality with a detached and boring character. Yuk.
Lanvin – Arpege(pre-formulation)
A clean and tight perfume with a 'classic' structure that’s floating by like the Titanic on open sea - majestic and gracious. It got a compressed and concentrated feel about its aromatics with a great balance between flavour-efficiency and airy-expression; accelerating slowly with a smooth, trapless transmission from top, to mid and base. Very fresh and full flowery-flavored with the main-stage being taken by tuberose, beautifully accompanied by an orchestra of the other flowers, glowing and pulsating their flowery notes, dressing up the tuberose. It floats on a resinous-creamy sandalwood/patchouli/vanilla-base with powdery-iris and greeny notes: which already projects its light and warmth in this perfumes’ early start. Arpege is an incredible harmonious and very smooth blended perfume with a powerful, yet very elegant flow to it - never hurried, always in a constant pace that shows grace and dignity, wrapped in a mystical mist of knowing where its heading. A poetic masterpiece with no weak points and due to exquisite blending far more ‘easy’ smelling than how complex Arpege in reality is.
Guy Laroche - Drakkar Noir
This perfume, together with Caractere, got me started being excited about perfumery - this was the stuff my brothers wore when I was young. Smelling this after 20 years brings back a lot memories and makes me realize how good this perfume still is and was. Drakkar Noir made me recognize the smell of freshly crushed coniferous-leaves in it - which was a marvelous connection because I love that smell; we had them standing in our backyard. It was actually the first 'exotic' note that I could identify, other than rose- and citrus-notes. Drakkar noir always moves with a greenish flow, but always of the dirty-kind: slightly oily with a raw, gritty edge to it, and with smooth leather and tobacco 'of the spicy kind' to back it up, carried by a soft mossy cloud of oakmoss with a cederwoody-touch. Drakar Noir is an intense, focused and hot-tempered perfume with as much grip as smoothness; where lavender connects the bright and fresh peppery-citrus topnotes with the more 'weighted' base which also displays ozonic, metallic and mentholic notes. Drakkar Noir acts as a bodyguard in a tight, flashy suit - acting self-assured, cool and collected, but with a hidden alertness; ready to flex some muscles and kick some action when the moment calls for it. A masculine Masterpiece.
Parfume d'Empire - Eau Sauve
A good perfume made with ditto materials that in the end misses a slight focus on its projection during its early dryout. The opening is very promising with a blast of peppery cumin, coriander and saffron - heated up by the idea of incense; I like good, expressive openings in a perfume. It gets to smell really fruity - like a nectarine and strawberry-juice that has been aromatized with lemonpeels that gives it a guava-tropical and orangey touch with a hint of clove. This grows into a moist-greenish fruity tone with a juicy 'snapped stem'-note, which to my taste gets a bit too sweet and easygoing. It gets a sourish-note like ginger, a soft floral note of lavender and somehow I spotted a light touch of tobacco.. A more raw and serious oily-green note grows with a more tight and grip-feel to it; while at the same time losing expression of its aromaticness. It gets a bit 'tame' and a bland taste to it, growing into a more airy-mentholic and very soft soapy/mossy kind of way, together with the pulpfruit-fleshy note of osmanthus(?), a pinch of rose and the green toned down to a herbal green-tea note.
A very joyful perfume with a soft, easy, friendly character and a 'natural' harmonious flow to it - never aggressive but always polite in a well-dressed kind of manner. Must smell very nice on a woman in springtime that’s enjoying lunch in the sun with her soulmate - Eau Sauve is a good perfume to accompanying a good friend, good food and a good glass of Soave...
Andy Tauer - L'Air du Desert Morocain
I once tested all of Tauer's perfumes in one go and was sick for 2 days after that; I call it the Tauer's stress-syndrome now... All his perfumes have a sort of chemical sharpness to them, which I guess I am allergic to - so smelling this isn’t an easy task.
L'Air smells like pepper, frankincense, cederwood, styrax, myrrh, labdanum and vanilla mixed down in a slobby fashion where no note climbs up the stage and shows its true character - instead all the individual qualities of the notes get snowed under in a kakafonie of smells that only get to sing in a clear and clean tonality in its late dryout. Still - just smelling some good quality frankincense sorts out a much better effect then smelling L'air, in my opinion. I’m gonna try to scrub this of my hand now with some similar smelling handsoap... I feel Tauer's stress-syndrome taking control of my body now; making my nose, head and eyes hurt and ache, increasing my hart-rate and letting my right-leg nervously shake in a uncontrollable way...
Still in the mist of this all, I can smell that Andy Tauer put his very best in this one - so I hope that there are many people out there that are able to like this perfume. Andy Tauer deserves his succes.
Puro Lino - Puro Lino
First of all, I respect the independent guy from puro lino for putting his own brand on the market. But no living human-being could sniff this, buy this and use it on a regular basis, attaching memories to it; unless your sense of smell is lost or very weak... The first whiff, a fragile sweet rosewater on jasmine-petals note, is nice for about 5 seconds before its being taken over by a so obnoxious and crude soap note, that I thought it got me fainting... Puro Lino reminds me of the green colored blocks of Palmolive-soap from the time when I was a kid, and also of all the toilets that I have ever used in my life so far - so, not pleasant memories all the way, I can assure you... This perfume tries to settle down in a freshly washed, thick cotton blankets note that’s steeped in soft-floral and powdery iris with rooty and darky soil aspects; but unfortunately, that sharp-soapy note is never far away.... This perfume deserves a more 'subtle' name: Puro Sapono extreme.
Magnetic Scents - Untitled No.2
I think there is a reason why this perfume hasn’t got a name, cause it smells like an unfinished perfume that is still in a trial-stage - not really good, not very bad, neither flesh or fish. It moves in a uninspired way with a dressed-up character but a nervous and introvert personality. Smelling this is like watching a movie without the sound - it is nicely floating by, but without any plot-twists that makes it exciting or captivating.
What I smell in its start is bay leaf, ginger, cumin, caraway, anise and maybe nutmeg with a leading role for cinnamon - with its high diffusive-power, and somehow all this smells like how a garam masala spice-mix smells like out of a canister from the store. It altogether radiates a warm and gritty texture that you can actually 'feel'. From here it gets some sweeter and more floral, but the musty-spicy bitterness of the cinnamon doesn’t quite match the sourness of the rose in here, giving this scent a nervous-like quality that doesn’t make it a comfortable smelling. There isn’t just enough movement and dynamics that gives No.2 a lush and easy flow. It catches a cacao-note, that together with the cinnamon and rose makes it gourmand-like and gives the impression of fenugreek, before settling down in vanilla with a dried herbal, clove-like aspect - which smells rather nicely.
No.2 stretches itself in one long monotonous moan, with a decent expression of its aromatics, but fails to really tell a story or recite any poetic quotes of itself while its underway - forgetting to make contact with me as a wearer and keeping its secrets to itself... No.2introvert?
Etat Libre d'Orange - Tom of Finland
A hard to digest and very turn-off perfume for me - it tries to stand out but fails by lacking structure and a clear vision. Different kind of notes pop up, screaming for attention but they stand alone in a mix that doesnt has enough linear flow to it.
It has a cold anisic-'vodka'(Finlandia?) opening, followed by an almost 'icy' mentholic-peppery spiciness together with green geranium/lavender/cypres-notes and candlewax-aldehydes, with tonka-bean already peeping through. There is safraleine with a hot-herbal tone that later on gets to smell like a mix of roundish wood-notes with a nice tobacco-like side to it, that, to my taste is its best moment. It moves to a thin leathery note with green lemons rubbed in it, which then is drowned in a bath of sweet berry-syrup which makes it somehow smell like 'liquid marzipan in a rusty metal cup' - with a harsh bitter-sour smell reminding of pieces of banana steeped in grapefruit-juice.
This is the point where my nose gets frustrated and only slightly recovers deep in its dryout, when a nice salty vanilla-note is displayed. Strange that it settles down in a big amber kind-of-way and trying to combine it with a suede-leather note that smells more like foldable plastic. There are interesting notes in this perfume but it smells more like a exhibition of smells than actually focus on a stable balance in its blending. Tom can stay in Finland.
Etat Libre d'Orange - Fat Electrician
Yes, there are actually people who smell like this; people like fat electricians who sit around and eat more than do any work, and when they do, they sweat a lot and smell like Fat Electrician. The one and only true inspiration for this perfume must have been without a doubt, a smelly fat electrician, being invited in the house of a perfumer who gained instant inspiration for a new perfume by this encounter....
Fat Electrician smells like fresh cotton fabric drenched in fresh sweat together with the warm radiation of a 'fat', fleshy-oily, fresh leathery smell of the warmth of fat electrician's skin; a sort of creamy-nutty, dirty-smoky, and spiced-greeny smell. It opens with salty lemonpeel, 'chestnut', fresh vetiver, pepper and a touch of cinnamon, creating a warm dusty, spiced-smoky and gritty texture. It gets rounder and more 'weighted' due to oppoponax, the clever use of medicinal-resinous myrrh and a smooth woody-earthy note of patchouli. The vetiver grows stronger - giving it a crisp and rawish-rooty green note that reminds me of freshly cut paprika and the flesh of olives - before catching a more dirty animalic smokiness with hints of dark chocolate and coffee, that introduces the salty hay-like touched vanilla-pots.
Fat Electrician keeps a great focus on a smoky, 'weighted' warmth with a counteract of fresh green-juicy notes, resulting in a very potent sour-bitter scentprofile that attracts and turns-off at the same time. A highly original perfume that intrigues from start to finish. Very well done.
Azzaro - Azzaro pour Homme
I cant explain why this is soo good, but it is... Its opening is maybe a bit too in-your-face and brusque; greatly efficient but not too very refined and quiet, but it settles down in the most beautiful and subtle, warm piquant-green dryout ever. Not very big or full, but loud in a very concentrated kind of way - it manifests a tremendous compressed and lively aromaticness with a lot of fraicheur. And while doing so, it doesn’t try to impress or to be more than it can be - it knows what its qualities are and delivers them without any boasting and bragging, in perfect form; like Ayrton Senna racing on the grand prix of Monaco.
It kicks off with a blast of anisic, slight soapy clary sage with a peppery feel, and warm spicy juniper-berry. Then it grows to soft-floral lavender with coolish cardamon and lemony green petit-grain with cedarwood, green pine, basil and anise; which has a juicy and lively green flow to it. Somehow this part gets a bit blurry and blown-up to my taste; a very rich melting-pot of notes - but after this it somehow manages to extract the essence of all that is going on, in one focused and compressed 'shine' that radiates a lot of warmth and a superb sweet-bitter balance. Patchouli, vetiver and sandalwood? are joining and preluding its slight salty and dirty animalic, piquant greeny, caraway-spicy toned, oakmoss-based dryout.
As a whole - this makes a perfume that is almost impossible to dislike; it is simply built with too much intensity, fine-tuned quality and simplicity. Unique, and one of a kind.
Killian - Sacred Wood
Not so much with a lot of sandalwood - more about sandalwood; it sort of reconstructs the feel of it with other materials then just sandalwood until it starts to shine more by itself. Calice Becker somehow manages to dress the sandalwood up by accentuating the specific notes that sandalwood wears on its own. Its peppery lemon-like top, musty old dust-like aspects, a sort of fruitpulpy waxy-fleshness, urinic blank wood, citronella/camphor-notes, raw edged woodchip-flavor, cool-minty undertones and a creamy oiliness. I guess Iso E Super plays a mayor role in this composition as well, to give it a airy and transparent feel. Sacred Wood makes me think of freshly crushed coriander-seeds, wet cedarwood, dusty waxed church-floors and the coolness a church radiates, old library-books, menthol-mints and a combination of black and green tea. It gets a more rounder and sweeter tone towards its dryout and some warm, light resinous-incense and salty undertones.
All this time that I’m smelling Sacred Wood, instead of sandalwood, it reminds me more of nagamotha - I miss that sexy and round, creamy lushness that sandalwood can have; in here it smells more like a sweet bitter almond note. Its a good composition, but it somehow lacks depth, juice and a lively 'sparkle'... it smells too well-behaved, too sterile - like a hospital corridor or the workplace of a chemical lab, where Sacred Wood was brought to life.
20th May, 2014 (last edited: 21st May, 2014)
Aqua di Parma - Oud
Funny how Oud never can seems to get its engine started, while on the other hand it manages to smell like a overheated car-engine...
Its opening is a mix of bitter-sour, paprika-green oily-like stuff, that not at any time reaches a level of attractiveness - it smells like cistus with warm rubber-plastic-metal edges to it. After that it gets slightly better with a more dry resinous-woody note, assisted by a sweet-like orange note of maybe neroli/orangeblossom, and bitter almonds that gives it a more rounder feel - but still not attractive. There is a red strawberry/raspberry note that doesn’t dress up the oud in a haut-couture kind of way, more like slutty (like a whore that applies too much, too red-colored lipstick) - before the salty and slight musty, tarry character of it comes through in a powdery and anisic-soapy fashion; still too bitter-sourish, in a unattractive kind of way. I guess, handling oud requires a focused and clever look at its partnering with other basenotes, to make it work as a whole - instead of dressing it up with fancy top- en middle-notes. In the end, Oud settles down in a nice, amyris/oudish-way with a 'fleshy'-leather touch, but you wonder why you have to go through some much noise, before hearing that clear note. I rather like smelling pure oud then Oud.