Perfume Reviews

Reviews by EmeraldSkye

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Total Reviews: 11

Ma Griffe (original) by Carven

This is for the vintage perfume

It opens up a bitter, dry aldehydic green, that unfortunately resembles the smell of the inside of my dad's Volvo Amazon in the sixties, a smell that always made me a little nauseous (is it the asafoetida that produces this effect?). It stays that way for a long time, and then dries down into a warm, spicy base that is rather pleasant. Lastly comes the woody base that lingers forever.

Launched (from airplanes over Paris) in 1946, Ma Griffe was the "it" scent for young people back in the fifties - rebellious and ground breaking. In our own fruity/floral times it might be considered too sharp and dry. Still, it is a classic and well worth a thumbs up for the quality of the ingredients and the originality of the composition (by perfumer Jean Carles, himself anosmic by the time he made it).
04th June, 2014

Hasu-no-Hana by Grossmith

Old world, imperial luxury. How this can be considered a chypre is however beyond me - as a chypre lover I would be hugely disappointed if I encountered this excpecting a floral chypre. A soft, smooth oriental, with the balsamic basenotes present throughout, it is reminiscent of Shalimar. The woody drydown is almost smoky, with a dusty feel. Although it is meant to be unisex, to my mind it is rather masculine - like a freshly washed, clean shaven male cheak ready for a kiss.
02nd June, 2014 (last edited: 04th June, 2014)

Perles de Lalique by Lalique

This is for the perfume strength

This is a beautiful, rather transparent, modern chypre. It opens up with a peppery rose, softens slightly with the inclusion of Iris and settles into a soft warm woody accord with Cashmeran and patchouli.

If I have one complaint, it is that there is more than a pinch too much pepper, which makes it a little too sharp. The overall effect is however a warm, somewhat masculine scent.

The EdP is similar and much more affordable, so if you are not into gorgeous Lalique crystal bottles, you should go for that.
02nd June, 2014 (last edited: 04th June, 2014)
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Private Collection by Estée Lauder

This is for the vintage pure perfume

The opening is way too green for my taste, razor sharp and dry, and even though there are flowers in the background they never really make an entrance. There is some sweetness in the hyacint and the honeysuckle but overall this is a severe green chypre, all business. Not my cup of tea, but I will give it a thumbs up for the sophistication and the undeniable quality of the ingredients. If you are a lover of green scents, this may be just what you are looking for.
02nd June, 2014 (last edited: 04th June, 2014)

Diorama by Christian Dior

I never had the good fortune to try the original Diorama, but maybe this is really a blessing. Now I can enjoy the new Diorama without having to compare it to a past masterpiece. Having worn and loved the original Diorissimo and Diorella for many years, I felt betrayed by the ghastly shadows that now carries their names. Not so with Diorama (though I must admit I am curious as to what it used to be).

New, reissued Diorama is a favourite of mine for all year, all day, any occasion use. It goes straight to a powdery yet distinct floral accord with jasmine, rose, peaches and plum that slowly settles in a lovely mellow woody base. It is a kind of summary of all fragrances I love - it is not one of the most outstanding, but if I had to choose only one for a desert island this would be a contender.
31st May, 2014 (last edited: 07th June, 2014)

Terre d'Hermès by Hermès

The first time I ever smelled Terre d'Hermes was on an airplane. My husband sat down next to me, and after a minute or two I started sniffing the air. "What is that smell?" It was everywhere and nowhere, elusive and pervasive. I couldn't trace it to him, and he only shrugged his shoulders "I don't know. I tried something at the tax free store, maybe that's it?" He said it was Terre d'Hermes, but I dismissed it as this smell was nothing like "terre"(earth). It was as unearthly as possible, more like ocean and sky, oxygen and ozone. Having finally tried it myself back home, I had to admit that this misnamed marvel was in fact what I had first sensed on the plane. Now, several years later, my son wears it as his signature scent, and I still react the same way. Sniffing the air I ask: "What is that, where does it come from?" and then: "Oh...".

So how about the "terre"? Well, perhaps wet earth. The feeling you get deep into a forest after the rain, wet pine needles, wet moss. Or else, what I really feel: sky over ocean, nothing but air and space and water and something undefinable. Everywhere and nowhere.
31st May, 2014

Aoud by Roja Dove

Roja Dove is all about quality. "Made with no reference to cost" is a comment he often makes in relation to his own and others' creations, and he puts excellence in materials above all. It may be that his Aoud is not the most outlandishly creative, but it is superbly well blended and the quality in the materials makes it an almost hypnotic experience. I went through samples of all Montale ouds, and they only left me irritated: curry here, saffron there, not one felt authentic or like it wanted to tell me anything. Roja Dove Aoud is a true story, anything but boring.
31st May, 2014

Chypre de Coty by Coty

This is for the 1980s version

I once got a miniscule sample of the original Coty Chypre in pure perfume concentration. That was one of the most perfectly beautiful scents I have ever experienced and it made me long for this perfect chypre. I have been searching the Internet from time to time ever since to find this marvel again, but it is just not to be found. What can be found is the 1980s reissue, in a beautiful art deco inspired bottle. This scent was a disappointment however. It is not a bad fragrance, but it is not nearly as wonderful. And despite of it being from the eighties it feels old and dated, a little bit like the bathroom of an older couple we sometimes visited when I was a child in the 1960s. Not something I would wear other than at home, for the nostalgia and vintage feel.
31st May, 2014

Angel by Thierry Mugler

This gorgeous sexy gourmand scent is not for everone, as is evident from reviews here and everywhere. The first time I tried it, it felt like a slap in the face, offensive and rude - like no other perfume I had ever tried or wished to try (and apparently the first one ever made completely without flowery notes). Several years later I can't get enough. I am not much of a gourmand when it comes to perfume, but the ambery, musky patchouli drydown is what does it for me. It goes on and on forever, like a kid's dream of a day at the tivoli.
30th May, 2014 (last edited: 07th June, 2014)

Les Cascades de Rochas : Songe d'Iris by Rochas

A burst of citrus evolves into a soft, powdery heart dominated by iris in this lovely feminine scent. Reminiscent of Jean Patou Enjoy but lighter and fresher, it was made by the same nose Jean-Michel Duriez. It is more of a cologne than of an EdT and you need to refresh several times a day, but if you do, and spray generously, the sillage is quite good. Duriez wanted “the fragrance to be like a small drop of water gently rolling on skin, all in softness and quietness.” He succeeded, and it is an absolutely beautiful summer scent that deserves a lot more attention than it has gotten so far.
30th May, 2014 (last edited: 07th June, 2014)

Ô de Lancôme by Lancôme

I cannot bear to give Ô de Lancôme anything but a thumbs up, but that is for the old one, the vintage, the pre-reformulation fragrance. Ô de Lancôme used to be one of my favourite scents for summer and sports – refreshing citrus with the most gorgeous, soft and sexy sandalwood drydown. The wave of reformulations round about 2010 hit Ô de Lancôme as well, and left what is an insult to both the old fragrance and those who loved it. Its new version is a sharp, charmless, lemony washing-up liquid, not to be recommended. Best not dwell on that though, but to remember the dreaminess of the Ô de Lancôme that used to be...
30th May, 2014