Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Theholyfilament

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Total Reviews: 8

Replica Jazz Club by Martin Margiela

Syrupy sweet tobacco-rum combo with a nice leather note. The rum is of the dark, sweet, spiced variety and the tobacco is of the (also) sweet, cherry-like pipe variety. The leather adds a nice little bit of depth but I'm not so sure I'm enjoying the composition. The incredibly sweet rummy opening kind of smells like cheap tropical shampoo for some reason. Shortly after it enters my favorite phase, which is the fairly well balanced mid. While the sweetness is still almost cloying, the tobacco and leather notes are well blended and pleasant. The drydown leans a bit too much on candied pipe tobacco and I found that it turned my stomach. It performs well, unsurprisingly with such thick, sweet notes. I don't think its evocative of a jazz club or another smoky, dark environ. It more accurately conjures up images of cheap tropical shampoo and other super sweet candy syrup masculines such as Jon Varvatos. 5/10
11th June, 2015

Coven by Andrea Maack

Coven is great. It's one of the strongest grass/soil-dominant fragrances I've put my nose on. It's surprisingly fresh for such an ominously titled work. Buried underneath the earthen peat and moss I detect a warm sweetness (perhaps the whiskey?) and strangely enough, a muddled yet noticeable minty note. It kind of tingles the nostrils and adds a confounding ethereal quality to the overall composition. It's like sauntering through some dark, damp woods at 5 am. The air is cold and filled with foggy early-morning moisture and the thick scent of moss and dirt rise up from beneath you.

Its very well balanced, and smells satisfying and evocative while still being very wearable and pleasant. While I do love it, I occasionally get a little bit tired of it and have to give it a break, but I always return to it. Performs very very well, lasts all day and projects. 8/10
11th June, 2015

Reveal Men by Calvin Klein

I Have no idea why but the opening of this scent reminds me of the dentist's office. It conjured up the smell of those scented/flavored latex gloves that dentists use while examining your mouth. It's not that its minty, but it just made that connection in my brain. Bizarre...anyway, As most have already said here, to CK's credit this is a unique creation. It's definitely similar to other "savory" scents like womanity and reveal for women but I dont think the concept works very well for a masculine. This is simultaneously way too sweet, way too salty, and way too fruity on me. Imagine if you were making cotton candy and part way through someone snuck up behind you and poured pear and melon bath salts, and a little bit of crystallized ginger into the machine. Then the machine malfunctions and begins to sputter while spewing the mixture straight up your nostrils and into your sinuses. The resulting scene is one that I could imagine some people really loving, but on me its just bizarre and unpleasant. The sweetness is incredibly persistent, staying strong through the entire duration, way past the point of being tiring. I kind of see this as CK's attempt to "mix up" the scene of super popular candy-sweet fragrances like one million, eros, invictus and the like. I definitely prefer it to those for it's uniqueness but in all I have no desire to ever really wear it again.
26th April, 2015
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Sécrétions Magnifiques by Etat Libre d'Orange

It is hilarious the amount of hate and hyperbole this fragrance generates. I guess that probably was ELDO's intention. I've read reviews for years and just on a whim decided it was time to pop my secretions magnifique cherry. I was expecting eau de crimescene. I was expecting used condom filled with spit and tampon and all the bodily nasties of the world. What I got was totally surprising. The opening is a futuristic metallic oceanic thing with coconutty, irisy nuances. I actually really really liked it. So much so that at first I was wondering whether it got reformulated or I got sent the wrong sample or something. Not to say it's not weird, it just has extremely contrasting elements that (with the aid of marketing and imagination) makes one imagine old spunk and hemoglobin. I legitimately believe that if someone were to smell this without the associations they would be much more likely to enjoy it. To me the opening seems to not be a literal interpretation of blood or semen or spit, but instead seems to be a perfumized version of those secretions, suggesting that they have inherent, perfumistic qualities. I feel like the opening is what Scarlett Johannson's character's spaceship thing might have smelled like in Under the Skin. Futuristic, sexual, and totally strange. Then cums the dry down. The truly awful dry down. My girlfriend said it smelled like dried cum (without knowing the fragrances concept..). To me, I got sour milk and nickels. Maybe it wasnt all just hyperbole... I think the inherently disgusting aspect of this fragrance is that these 'human' elements combine without any warmth or humanistic qualities. It doesnt smell like lovers in heat, it smells like a mortician extracted the fluids of a serial rapist and stirred them all together in a rusted metal beaker. Despite how terrible the drydown is, I totally enjoyed the experience of testing this and appreciate the audacity it took to make, regardless of whether it was a marketing ploy or not. I actually do still like the opening and will sniff it on occasion (the next time i'm craving the smell of sour milk and nickels), but i don't think another wearing is required. Ever again.
26th April, 2015

Explosions d’Emotions : Amour Nocturne by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Another subverted gourmand from L'artisan. This one is interesting! When I first applied it I got some sweetness with a strong, bitter, rough note that reminded me almost of pepper or some other bitter spice. After reading the notes I totally recognize the gun powder accord. Yknow on the 4th of july, when the last few fireworks are launched off and theres just a slight haze over everything with that smoky smoldering scent? bingo. Shortly after the firecracker opening, a warm, smooth, sweet caramel note starts to wake up (no milk for me.. Im not really sure how one would be able to detect milk when theres a prominent caramel note anyway ). It grows and grows, and then right before it gets too sweet I suddenly notice that theres a nice, peppery cedar note. Was that there the whole time? I don't know..but it keeps getting more and more prominent. Eventually I was left with a slightly bitter cedary caramel fuzz that I really enjoyed. This is not a fragrance for everyone, its definitely unisex and almost unpleasant at first. I feel like this would greatly appeal to fans of Dzing who are looking for something else from the 'strange and sweet' corner of L'artisan. It definitely is not worth the ridiculous retail price but seeing as how it can be found at discounters for less than the normal l'artisans its worth a look! 8.5/10
26th April, 2015

Cape Heartache by Imaginary Authors

Cape Heartache is simple, yet effective. It opens with slight wood smoke, fresh pine needles, and a tangy-sweet strawberry note. I am instantly brought back to various points in my childhood, be it sitting around the christmas tree or visiting a local strawberry patch. It is definitely sweet, but when focusing on the sweetness, the woody notes jump out and catch it just before it becomes candied. As it dries down, the tangy strawberry recedes (remaining present, just sinking into the rest of the blend) while the pine/smoke and vanilla takes over. There is something to this that makes me a bit nostalgic. The way the woodsy, heavy masculine notes balance out the fun, young, bright, fruity note makes me think of growing up. Sort of yearning for the sweet, easier times of childhood, while trying to adjust to being serious. This is the scent of those weird in-between years, when you aren't a teenager, but adulthood just doesn't feel right yet. I have been meaning to purchase this for months..I'm sure I will eventually! Performance is formidable.
26th April, 2015

Norne by Slumberhouse

Like a haunted forest burning to the ground in the middle of a moonless night.
Like covering your body in fir sap and rolling around in burnt incense, as the wind carries a chilling breeze overhead.
Or maybe like a recently set ablaze church in the middle of the frozen Norwegian woods.
Stoic, haunting, sombre, and meditative are all fitting. It almost seems like day to day life is not worthy of such powerful, enchanting imagery. Just to add to the experience, i've never had anything perform like this. It just keeps lasting.
Wearing this in even slightly warm weather would be absolutely stifling so I can't justify a full bottle due to my area's tropical climate, but man does this sample make me long for being lost in some snowy, dark, coniferous forest. Truly a masterpiece and one of the best from Slumberhouse.
26th April, 2015

Bulletproof No. 45 by Tokyo Milk

Love this. Definitely get a masculine vibe from it but I could imagine a really special kind of woman pulling it off. It opens with a dark, sweet, woody vibe that instantly makes me nostalgic for the autumns of my youth. The smokiness of the tea works awesomely with the sweetness of what I assume must be the coconut milk. Over time it softens out and becomes much more androgynous. The sweetness becomes much more prominent but it's never super sugary or gourmand. Lasts a good 6+ hours on me but sillage is kind of weak. With such a cheap price I am definitely debating getting a bottle,
04th July, 2014