Perfume Reviews

Reviews by psebi101

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Total Reviews: 167

French Lover / Bois d'Orage by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Opens green, bitter and spicy followed by a clear cedar note. The best way to describe it is that is smells of freshly cut woods in a forest on a rainy day. Earthy and moist at first progresses to dry woods with spicy undertones. A nice rooty vetiver envelops the woody heart and transparent clouds of incense straightens the earthy character. Very nice balance of notes and composition, great manly scent.
04th January, 2019

Ambre Sultan by Serge Lutens

Busy opening with lots of spices that are in front of a burning incense, but the amber stills the spotlight, no doubt. It's thick, dry, very spicy and resinous. As the scent develops, it gets sweeter and warmer, it loses the harshness of the avalanche of spice blend from the start and it gets better, in my opinion. But there are no real detours from the path, the stuff is pretty linear.
31st December, 2018

Fleurs de Sel by Miller Harris

The opening is packed with aromatic herbs and dominated by a salty note. There are definitely woods in the background and a faint leather note. The intensity drops a lot after the first half hour, but the fragrance doesn't change too much. It smells like a salty breeze over a garden of herbs.
31st December, 2018
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Le Gemme : Onekh by Bulgari

Bitter smoked leather with a cinnamon stick that gives me a bubblegum vibe.
31st December, 2018

Santal Carmin by Atelier Cologne

A little sweet, a little creamy, definitely woody with juicy lime. The vanilla is fresh, creamy and eatable and it plays a big supporting role to the front playing woods. Mostly linear on my skin.
31st December, 2018

Maisìa by Gabriella Chieffo

It's very green in the opening. It smells like wood and crushed fig leaves, but without the creamy/milky note, just the green part. The narcissus is definitely present and there is an ash note in the background. The fragrance shifts after a few hours to a fresh salty woody musky stuff that is dull, generic and played to the death especially in the manly designer game lately.
It's a neutral only for the first hours which were nice, because the dry down is a thumbs down.
31st December, 2018

Les Colognes : Vétiver by Annick Goutal

Surprisingly straight raw vetiver in the opening , but the added salty/marine note that follows is quickly taking the lead. Fresh lemon is there to lift up the composition and herbs for an aromatic touch. The aquatic note is a bit challenging for me, as I don't like aquatics. The contrast between the smoky and spicy java vetiver and the ozonic, salty oceanic note is interesting, but not my style.
The Different Company succeeded with Sel de Vetiver to pair salty notes with vetiver, but it's very different; that one smells of dried salty vetiver roots and Vetiver Cologne smells marine.
After the first hour, it wears very light, almost untraceable.
31st October, 2018

Costume National Homme by Costume National

A very pleasant woody spicy perfume that is perfect for autumn and winter. A little fresh at first, but then it's very spicy, with the most prominent being the cinnamon, cloves, pepper and cardamom. It has a little of Egoiste in it in the form of cinnamon and sandalwood, but it's much simpler.
7/10
30th October, 2018

Rive d'Ambre by Tom Ford

A palette of citruses that catches the bitter, sour and sweet aroma from all parts. It's bright and lively but there are shades of dark hidden underneath. The base provides some depth and ads character, but the star is always the citrus. Another companion is the mint, that puts the citruses even more into the spotlight with added crispness. Only in the late dry down, after about 5 hours, when I can only smell it from up close, I get a clear amber note.
For me, this is a better alternative to Neroli Portofino as a summer scent, because it's more sparkly and complex.
30th October, 2018

Orange Sanguine by Atelier Cologne

The orange is bitter and not that zesty; it doesn't smell particularly like straight orange juice, like many reviewed it and I like that. The heart brings flowers and a bit of sweetness. The blend is creamy, bitter-sweet, orange smelling, but again, not juicy. I suppose that the sandalwood and tonka provide the sweet and creamy aroma. The base is typical Atelier.
30th October, 2018

Cuir de Russie Parfum by Chanel

Butch leather under a bed of freshness that after the initial start shifts into a polished and polite rich leather with a base of the signature Chanel soapy-aldehydes. The jasmine and yang ylang beautifully envelopes the soapy leather giving the perfume a luscious, seductive nuance. It smells high class and rich; very Chanel.
Lately it's getting compared with Dior's Cuir Cannage but to me, the closest to Cuir de Russie is Etro's Gomma; they have a similar soapy leather infused with jasmine.
30th October, 2018

Eau de Magnolia by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Bright and fresh bergamot, zesty lemon, crisp but not sharp, very refreshing. Flowers quickly join, especially magnolia and muguet to form a nicely balanced citrus floral combo that is sweet and invigorating at the same time, gorgeous!
This is backed up by white musk that provides a clean facet to this warm weather/sunny day go-to scent.
Not that they're similar or redundant, but Eau de Magnolia is doing with magnolia what Lys Mediterranee does with lily.
28th October, 2018

Ardent by Boadicea the Victorious

At first spray it reminds me of a few Montale, because the rose/oud combo that I get is similar to how Montale smells. The rose is the dominant note and it's thick and sweet, so it paints a picture of a big velvety dark red kind of rose. Saffron and coriander are enveloping the rose with a spicy aroma and a heady jasmine is amplifying the flowery aspect.
Now on to the sweet part, the beeswax, benzoin and vanilla are raising the sweet level to a high degree and the ones that prevent it to not reach the cloying level are a dusty amber with slightly smoky labdanum and oud. I'm glad that in the dry down the sweetness loses ground in favor of the last mentioned notes. The rose is still going strong (and that's the primary note on the whole), but in the end is on par with the benzoin/vanilla.
24th October, 2018
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Vol de Nuit Évasion by Guerlain

Aldehydes, peach and iris is what I smell at first. Soft and vintage feeling powdery floral plus a nice peach note over a vanilla base. The vanilla/iris combo reminds me of Shalimar and I am guessing that the same materials are used as it has the signature Guerlain DNA.
19th October, 2018

French Leather by Memo

Opens up with a fruity sweet rose combined with lime and sage. What I find interesting is that I can pick up a nice pink savory rose which seems pretty natural to me; and combined with the lime and sage, it has an intriguing opening. I don't know where is the leather, because I can't smell any, but there is a nice creamy element in the background. Next to the rose bouquet there are bitter and green herbs and woods which seems to amplify with time. For the dry down, I get a dance between aromatic woods and something creamy.
17th October, 2018

Elixir by Penhaligon's

It has grabbed my attention from the start as I didn't know what to expect. It's like smelling a chunk of cedar while near burning incense and eucalyptus leaves. It's also sweet, and I could be tempted to say it's honey, because it does remind me of the honey in Phaedon's Tabac Rouge, but also the vanilla in Tom Ford's Tobacco Vanille; it has the same character as those two and the cinnamon completes the association for me. It's mostly linear on my skin and I would categorize it as a sweet spicy woody oriental.
16th October, 2018

Fleur de Chine by Tom Ford

Vintage in structure, opens with a blast of aldehydes and I can't help but think of Arpege and No5 in the first minutes; vintage in feel but not dated. But then the white flowers are blooming and they're creamy and intoxicating. A nice addition are the fruits which are not intrusive, but just an extra flavor and the woods provide a solid structure in the background. In the end, it's an aldehydic/musky/floral/fruity oriental, a sort of a contemporary interpretation of a vintage perfume.
15th October, 2018

TNT - Tama N Tuberose by PK Perfumes

This tuberose soliflore is a true interpretation of the flower; fresh, indolic, heady, buttery, rubbery. It's rich and fills up the room, intoxicating at the first spray and it goes strong for a couple of hours. In the heart the rubbery aspect fades and I detect ambergris which makes it a bit sharp around the edges, but that goes away in the latest stage, as the scent becomes really buttery, soft and powdery at times. Very pleased with the perfume as it is an a very good tuberose soliflore with good performance. It leans feminine, but I didn't have a hard time wearing it.
15th October, 2018

Tubéreuse Criminelle by Serge Lutens

The first 15-20 minutes are dominated by a vigorous camphor note which makes for a bold opening, but after that the tuberose takes the lead. It's not a basic tuberose soliflore as it has much going on besides it and it's what makes it stand from the crowd. The menthol note, which also balances the sweetness, runs right next to the tuberose the whole time as a supporter together with the spices, the jasmine and other stuff that I can't pinpoint but work so well together. I think it's quite complex for a tuberose scent and it's masterfully blended.
15th October, 2018

L'Ombre dans L'Eau Eau de Toilette by Diptyque

A sparkly opening that is green, zesty and sweet. It has the effect of a cooling orange and blackberry drink that is mouthwatering and you pour it over a pile of freshly picked pink rose petals and they fill the air with a sweet rose aroma. Two hours in the sparkle is lost and the smell is of a sugary rose with fruity tones.
11th October, 2018

Paisley by Etro

After a minute of freshness, a creamy ylang ylang and vanilla combo take the lead. There is a green element in the background that stays for a good while and makes the fragrance unisex, in my opinion. A nice jasmine is completing the flower bouquet and I think it has become rather sensual. The dry down is a vanilla leading creamy and flowery perfume and this part leans more feminine.
11th October, 2018

Galop d'Hermès by Hermès

Mouthwatering combination of quince and osmanthus with a sparkling rose. Now that is how you make a fruity floral which brings a smile on my face! From underneath all this, a fine buttery soft leather is adding some character; the leather is borrowed from the amazing Cuir d'Ange and I am happy about that. The heart is still pretty and it's focused more on the flowers (especially on the rose) while the osmanthus still brings a bit of freshness. I don't get any leather in the late dry down but I do get sort of an expensive rose soap feeling. I'd say this is unisex leaning a bit feminine, more so in the last part. It's a lively and happy perfume.
10th October, 2018

Poivre Bengale by Brécourt

Pepper and woody at first, pretty dry too. The leather used here along with the spices gives the fragrance a spicy tea smell. I like the fact that the sweet level is very low and the base is still spicy woods with a dry bitter leather. It's actually smooth.
10th October, 2018

Sel Marin by Heeley

I don't like aquatics, but this one is pleasant. Although it’s not my favorite blend, I can see the quality in the composition, doesn't smell synthetic and it's soft, airy and linear. Good for a warm summer day when you'd want something for cooling off.
09th October, 2018

Myrrhe et Délires by Guerlain

The myrrh is accompanied by licorice (a note I don't like) and it has a sweet opening which gets even sweeter and candy like , really too sweet for my taste. The dry down is a linear, not as sweet as the beginning, made of myrrh, tonka and vanilla with a slight incense note.
09th October, 2018

Camel by Zoologist Perfumes

A pretty busy opening with dried fruits, amber and civet hitting my nose first and after a closer inspection the rose, cinnamon and incense are picking out. Half an hour and the fragrance dials down compared to the complex opening being simpler and sweeter; myrrh with a subtle civet note which gets a bit pissy in the late dry down. Just meh for me, complex opening leading to a simple pissy drydown.
09th October, 2018

Héliotrope Blanc (new) by Oriza L. Legrand

Very sweet and slightly green violet leaf over a blanket of almond and rice powder. Through the drydown the powdery aspect is even more pronounced and it's accentuated by the sweet tonka.
09th October, 2018

Rose Cut by Ann Gerard

The sweet level of the opening is very high! Jammy roses are dominating and are paired with aldehydes which are not that sparkly as they usually are, a healthy dose of vanilla and a shy peony. In the base a big powdery note is intruding over the sweet rose and will take the lead into the drydown together with an abstract and synthetic floral/patchouli.
09th October, 2018

Elite by Floris

Zesty citrus with woods and burned sugar. The citrus is paired with oakmoss which gives an old school vibe, in the lanes of Chanel's Pour Monsieur and YSL Pour Homme. And the combination of lavender and juniper is adding a nice aromatic experience.
09th October, 2018

Dry Wood by Ramon Monegal

It is dry and woody, as the name suggests. It's also very sharp and after the initial sniff, I am only thinking how synthetic (in a bad way) this feels. I was intrigued by its name and I thought this will be to my liking, but it smells like many of the newer screeching woody generic designers that I dislike. Cedar and pepper with lemon, all synthetic and cheaply blended.
09th October, 2018