Perfume Reviews

Reviews by mattandhiscat

Total Reviews: 197

Gucci Guilty Cologne by Gucci

The opening reminds me of sitting in a launderette with all the tumble dryers working overtime and the metal cogs are starting to rub, the launderette is sitting on a cliff edge with the doors open and juniper trees are swaying in the breeze, interesting opening but I prefer the mid which reminds me of violet talcum powder. Excellent abstract take on a cologne, once again another leftfield and daring creation from Gucci that I really enjoy, Alberto has followed a very traditional approach to a post shave routine, geo.f.trumpers have many fragrances of this nature and it's not something new to me, however it does feel reassuring that a designer company is prepared to take chances and be a little different, the only issue I have with guilty cologne is the synthetic nature to the composition, the whole fragrance feels like it was developed on a spaceship, maybe that is part of its charm tho to be honest and it almost feels deliberate.
14th November, 2019 (last edited: 15th November, 2019)

Tobacco Oud Intense by Tom Ford

Absolutely head over heels for this fragrance, if the original wasn't so dry then it would be the perfect smokey ambery blend for me, Tobbaco oud Intense has been gifted tonka, raspberry and labdanum and voila ...probably the greatest smokey amber fragrance I've ever through and through, perfect balance of smokey tobbaco with a drop of oud, slightly sweet amber and a sexy smoothness that never goes dry or overly ashy, there's been just enough tweaking in this to bring out the very best in tobbaco ouds potential. For heaven's sake do not discontinue this.
03rd October, 2019

Join The Club : 1862 by Xerjoff

This is really classy, i get a spicey green mossy opening shrouded in patchouli, then I start picking up on polished leather and iris in equal proportions, the iris takes the edge off the fumey leather and leaves it tamed, it is all underscored with a touch of vanilla to keep it sexy and less austere , ultra classy and luxurious in everyway. Longivity is 24hours with half of that projecting. The fragrance was launched and given to attendees of a prestigious polo event.. then went to Harrods as an exclusive, if you have a bottle treasure it.
01st October, 2019
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Habdan by Parfums de Marly

Ever wanted Hugo boss bottled or boss bottled oud but of a much better quality and longivity, habdan is your answer. The result of making the smell better in quality is like having someone give your house a complete make over or pimping your car, at first smell it's breath taking and then going forward you are aware it's a smell you've kind of had before without the quality, the only notable difference besides quality is there is less of an emphasis on vanilla which gives boss bottled the full on Apple pie feel, I'm happier with this as I've always found that aspect of boss bottled a little annoying and cheap. This would make a fantastic luxury autumn fragrance.
28th September, 2019 (last edited: 31st October, 2019)

Eau de Portugal by Geo F Trumper

Straight up lemon and bitter orange, a pleasent splash with a bracing opening (the best bit), has a vintage feel after 10 minutes as if the notes suddenly become aged owing to the green notes in the base, short lived on my skin but pleasent enough and enjoyable in summer months.
10th July, 2019

Egypt by Eight & Bob

This reminds me of many sweet ambery spicey designer fragrances, the difference being that all the notes feel more pronounced and smooth, for the man who wants to upgrade from spice bomb or d&g the one. The nostalgic barbershop vibe mentioned is short lived but welcome as a starting point for the sweet warming heart that dominates, it all feels as if you took the modern sweet spicey idea and went into a time machine to the 80's, tried to sell the idea to Paco Rabanne or Ralph Lauren and they took a punt. Egypt is Enjoyable in all its entirety, including presentation.
09th July, 2019

Santal Sky / Santal Park by KIERIN NYC

This is such a smooth fragrance at a very reasonable price point given the quality, I get a very well done sandlewood with a pinch of cardamon and vetiver that almost gives it a leathery feel, reminds me slightly of TF ombre leather with a good dose of sandlewood running through it, it may be advertised as unisex but I find this composition masculine but not aggresive, instead he's smart and well put together. I could really see this being a fantastic work fragrance for the office, it has an approachable feel but remains professional and well put together.
03rd July, 2019

Light Blue Eau Intense pour Homme by Dolce & Gabbana

The poor man's creed milliseme imperial, or wise man's depending on how you feel about latest weak creed formulas, I get a very pleasent fruity salty accord that mingles with a synthetic musk, i almost want to say melon but the salt accord and musk are so prominent it hides exactly what the actual fruit note is supposed to be, Morillas has done a pleasent job here, there are no game changing twists but what is available for a good price is very appealing, pretty good performance too, projects well and lingers on the skin for a good amount of time.
25th June, 2019

Spencer Hart Palm Springs by Floris

Great job at recreating a vintage feel in a modern fragrance, I get vivid suggestions of habit rouge (citrus and carnation) and Pour Monsieur for its classy wispy aura , in it's own originality tho it has a clever smokey vibe that under scores the whole concept, this gives it that room with famous men chatting about life in glamourous surroundings feel, smoking when smoking was cool, I can't help but think of that famous black and white picture of the rat pack shooting pool together. Yes I have been influenced by the name and concept but in this case it is spot on. Average to low performance which is a shame but I don't think it was ever intended to be a screamer or the loudest in the room, the occasional whiff around the shirt collar is absolutely fine.
23rd June, 2019

Bracken Man by Amouage

A houbigant fougere royale tribute, with added clove giving a nod to the bayrum fragrances of the same time period, all rounded out with a heavy dose of damp patchouli. I have to say, the blending here is fabulous, it is so good it brings a modern feel to the whole composition and rejuvenates a sleepy genre. The enjoyable clove in this nearly killed the concept but just as it threatened to do so it quickly dropped off quite spectacularly, the star of the show is the damp patchouli that lingers long into the dry down, I get average to good performance with a close to the body projection, all season and most occasions, if Amouage were planning on doing shaving products then this would be the perfect scent.
10th June, 2019

Jardin Exclusif by Mancera

I like the opening, it smells like a sweet fruit medley with some of the green parts of the fruits thrown in, at this stage everything feels rather good, however it becomes a bit scratchy in the end and overly sweet, too sweet for me to wear, sort of caramelised and at the same time synthetically piercing. I can detect the rose and a bit of jasmine but unfortunately I don't pick up on the sandlewood, this leads me to the conclusion that this would suit a female.
07th June, 2019

Paithani by Penhaligon's

I really enjoy this ... I could ask for more performance but then the profile may lose its fantastic balance, I get a spicey medley over a dusty incense over a leather and cedar rose, altogether it feels very classy and sexy almost, what the hell is a milk note supposed to be ? I don't get milk but maybe a slight creamyness if I'm pushed to find it. Overall this is a wonderful spicey blend, well balanced and classy, comparable to Xerjoff Ivory route but a lighter less brutal version.
02nd June, 2019

Beach Hut Man by Amouage

Fantastic fragrance that I can't stop sniffing when it's applied, great quality ingrediants , I get a sweetened minty explosion (very natural) with a big soapy element , if anyone has ever smelt Palmolive shaving soap it's like the niche version of that with a sweetened minty overtone , very good performance and beautiful presentation. To me it's like having a nice traditional soapy hot shower while sipping a sugary mojito , it also has a similar mass appeal like reflection may have.
23rd May, 2019
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Ambra Aurea by Profumum

Starts out very rich and complexed with that initial niche style amber smell that is prominant in Ambre Russe and a few others , sort of warm and skanky, soon enough I'm reminded of Tom fords tobbaco oud with that dry smokey feel , however the fragrance never becomes dry or overly ashy, a start that through experience I didn't pass off, I couldn't stop smelling my hand, it evolves into the ambergris dry down I'm accustomed too in many creeds but the ambergris in this is accentuated to another level and becomes the fragrance as a whole, it's really addictive and seems to get more and more sexy. To summarize, this is a smoked ambergris fragrance of the highest quality and concentration , it may seem expensive but for what you get it represents amazing value, 12+ hours of top quality.
08th April, 2019

Prada L'Homme L'Eau by Prada

A light and airy clean clothes smell , suitable for summer and casual use , the florals neroli and iris smooth away any rough edges and the scent as a whole is really non offensive and significantly lacks character. Longevity on my skin is 2/3 hours , fairly boring but serves a purpose, mine being a few sprays before bed to enhance the clean duvet effect.
06th April, 2019

Battito d'Ali by Profumum

White floral heaven with a touch of vanilla...never in my life have I had such pleasure in smelling white florals. Its as if you have been reborn, you've been wrapped in a clean white satin sheet are surrounded by beautiful attentive calm females all taking care of you and the scenary is pure and clean...breathtaking purity in a bottle.
16th March, 2019

Casamorati Mefisto Gentiluomo by Xerjoff

I'm resisting spraying this during the winter, i see this as a high quality summer freshy rather than a barbershop type. I get citrus and a slightly dominant grapefruit in the opening with a wonderful mint accord that makes you feel really energised, all the notes feel completely natural. In the heart of the fragrance it is quite floral like putting your nose in a fresh bouquet, in the Base it has some xerjoff signature cedar and a bit of musk. Overall it feels very 3D, as if you are in a small space with all the ingredients being grown and crushed around you. Longivity on me is about 4 hours and projection is good , reminds me of a less synthetic guerlain herba fresca or silver mountain water in the mid.
21st February, 2019

Colonia Sandalo by Acqua di Parma

Sandalo is an incredibly well blended sandlewood fragrance, the sandlewood in this feels very natural, like real sandlewood was used ..typical acqua di parma citrus notes keep everything on the fresh and classy side of life. If you have experience with acqua Di parma oud then you will know what to expect with this one, incredibly they have managed to keep their sophisticated citrus style and showcase a powerful sandlewood accord that manages to dominate with support from all the top and middle notes. I pick up on lavender and a slight leather feel that leans things a bit barbershop. Overall this is one of the best sandlewood fragrances I have ever owned. Everything feels so smooth and natural with great versatility and performance.
20th February, 2019

Black Phantom "Memento Mori" by By Kilian

A really yummy boozey fragrance..I get a sugary coffee with raisin's soaked in rum, there are some woody facets in the base that keep it masculine enough for me. The aim was to achieve a sort of gothic pirates lair, the fragrance in part manages to reflect this but suffers in performance on my skin. When I catch the occasional waft it's lovely ..really warming and cosy but most of the time for 6 hours it's a skin scent ..shame really but there are other options like A*men and it's flankers. The presentation is fantastic , a beautiful gothic skull head lockable box that i feel is sadly the best part of the experience.
10th February, 2019 (last edited: 13th February, 2019)

Russian Leather by Molton Brown

Wonderful birch tar and leather combination that smells luxurious and expensive but is sadly spoiled with edt concentration ..the alcohol burns away the notes far too quickly and what began as a classy pine and leather ended 2 hours later as a leather and pine skin scent..dam what a shame.
08th February, 2019

The One for Men Eau de Parfum by Dolce & Gabbana

A fruity warming amber scent that is just so easy to grab and go, it has an inviting coconut vibe in the dry down and a bit of tobacco, I get good performance and the whole composition feels very well put together and smooth. I'm on my second bottle now and have enjoyed many good moments in life wearing this.
06th February, 2019

Join The Club : 40 Knots by Xerjoff

This fragrance begins very bright and floral and to my nose not very aquatic at first, more like the fields leading to the sea, silky and smooth tho all the same. Then suddenly I'm getting dry woods and maybe a whiff of a salty sea breeze with something jammy and sweet bringing to mind dior's ambre nuit, later things take a final turn into what feels like a chic white musk dry down with sea notes and a bit of spicey deck wood..all together the experience is enjoyable and very creative, I feel very relaxed wearing this, as if I've had a day out by the harbour and took that boat trip on offer. The fragrance lasted a long time on my skin but never became too loud or attention grabbing kind of became a second skin with little whiffs here and there. I'm close to saying this is a nautical masterpiece, it is certainly an interesting fragrance and exactly why many frag heads end up in the niche world.
28th January, 2019 (last edited: 28th February, 2019)

Rush of Unicorns by Parfums Vintage

MI just got better..salty musky water melon , usual DNA with better projection and longivity ..bottle has a nice dior type sprayer that creates a lovely mist. When I'm wearing MI i struggle to smell it unless I over spray ..with unicorn I can feel it projecting and I constantly catch wafts with my body movement for at least 5 hours, then a skin scent for another 4 hours..all with a normal application. The quality of ingredients seem no different, this is like the extrait version to me.
25th January, 2019

Gentleman Eau de Parfum by Givenchy

Just when you thought the designer iris edp's had reached their last consumer battle, taken the cash and ran.. no, up pops this wonderful intelligent creation. Nothing new in what you recognise but certainly not a cocktail that is readily available at the time of writing, as ZGB points out it is a hybrid of dior homme and rive gauche and it works absolutely without question. In fact I've put off replacing my rive gauche and gone for this one, as it feels familiar and original at the same time (nice idea to use the lavender and iris). The quality is just enough to feel special and the performance is stellar on my skin. To summarise , I feel like Gentleman only edp is a barbershop fragrance dressed in a tuxedo.
12th January, 2019

Boss Bottled Intense Eau de Toilette by Hugo Boss


Take the original, don't alter the D.N.A but intensify every note and make it last longer, hey presto you have boss bottled intense EDP. Could fragrance blending be that simple and easy?, you'd think not with the amount of failed 'intense' flankers on the market. Hugo Boss have nailed it tho with this one, they have stuck with their classic and given it upgrades. Price, performance and quality are all on point for what is a respectful and honest improvment of a legend.
04th January, 2019

Colonia Quercia by Acqua di Parma

Interesting one this ..starts very fougere like with a minty edge caused by the geranium and retro oakmoss ..sits lovely on my skin and garnered an instant compliment from my girlfriend.. good start but the tonka feels a little confused in the dry down, it kind of pull's it in the wrong direction and ends up leaving everything a bit flat and cheapened..what began for me as a lovely niche fougere ended up being a bit boring and like a less vibrant ysl la nuit de l'homme (even in current formulation) ..nothing terrible in any case , just dissapointing from an adp perspective and maybe this one got rushed a bit in development. Sits close to the skin after an hour but lasts a good while.
29th December, 2018

Boss Bottled Oud by Hugo Boss

If you are familiar with boss bottled then imagine that but with added saffron and oud me it's a match made in heaven (juicy apple,spice and smokey wood) and it works a treat. There are occasions I can almost detect a very slight tobbaco tinge in this, absolutely perfect for nights out and certainly exotic. Another great designer oud release. Longivity is very respectable with a good 7 hours of noticeable performance ..projection good in the first 2 hours ..settles into a sophisticated 1ft bubble there after.
28th December, 2018

XJ 1861 Zefiro by Xerjoff

Citrus in the opening but not too pronounced, then beautiful incense and woods (cedar and sandlewood) come into play with peppery spices, eventually I detect a slightly waxy iris that mimics the feeling of being in a candle lit church. This fragrance is deeply formal and straight faced seriousness..certainly classy and very niche smelling, difficult to picture when to wear this tho..maybe an overcast Sunday somewhere or an art gallery displaying statues. Longivity and projection are very good. The type of fragrance I like smelling all day on the back of my hand. Zefiro reminds me of royal oud, ivory route and the new Valentino uomo absolute with the Valentino being my favorite of the 4.
23rd December, 2018

Dunhill Icon by Dunhill

A really well blended fragrance from dunhill with smooth transition. The opening is all about neroli and petitgrain, bringing a orangey floral beginning with a touch of pepper but not overly obvious pepper, its just there slightly. Immediately I'm thinking of fragrances like ferrari bright neroli and neroli Portofino, what separate's icon from those is the transition to the lavender, vetiver and iris giving it more of a masculine appeal but retaining its bright energy. Icon smells fairly natural and lasts a reasonable amount of time on my skin, the bottle is the heaviest in my collection and is as appealing as any top end niche design but will present a problem in luggage weight allowance, price is fantastic also considering what your getting, well done dunhill.
14th December, 2018

Eight & Bob by Eight & Bob

EDP Version

The similarities to Fahrenheit 32 are initially very close but eight and bob is far denser and has a more linear dry down. What I mainly get is lemon and vanilla with hints of nuts (slight synthetic feeling but not annoying or plasticky), not in the same way as say chanel edition blanche either, more a sort of strange banana smell. Sounds weird but I really like this and it performs amazingly on my skin. Where as Fahrenheit 32 is a bit more floral and wispy in its dry down this one maintains its top and Base notes from start to finish, probably one of the most linear fragrances I've come across. Eight and Bob lasts around 10 hours on my skin with at least 5 hours of projection. I'd say this could be worn anytime of year and anywhere, a nice release and fun to wear.
12th December, 2018