Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Zephyr1973

Total Reviews: 170

Samsara Eau de Parfum by Guerlain

I had the vintage EDT and adored it. Sold it to purchase the vintage EDP, and find it another level of heaven.

Samsara is the wonderful exploration of an old attic, with relics of long-ago past times, alluding to a glamour of everyday sophistication. It is the weaving in and out of the piles of interesting items, finding new things to observe and immerse oneself in, while also being aware of the current time.

It is said that this scent contains one of the highest concentrations of Mysore sandalwood in any commercial perfume. If the EDT is the attic itself, the EDP is the very unique and exciting closet found within a closet that holds the secret of the creamiest sandalwood to be found this side of the 1990's.
03rd January, 2016

Sotto La Luna Tuberose by Tauer

I expected great things from the notes as well as some reviews. I found it nauseating. I feel awful even typing that, as Mr. Tauer is one of the kindest people, however this creation sounds so much better on paper. I do want it known that I attempted to test this several times, and always resolved never to open the vial again. The tester came from Twisted Lily, so I have no reason to think it was contaminated.


May 31, 2016
Today I received the most fantastic set and presentation of samples I've ever seen - I purchased LDDM directly from Tauer, and he kindly send along the coolest tin of spray samples, one of which was the Sotto La Luna Tuberose. Admittedly, I was a bit nervous about trying this again, after my last attempt, but I really wanted to like it.

The opening is awful. LOL! I mean, it really makes me actually cough - it's very dry - reminds me how I feel when I smell Dior's Oud Ispahan. Like I need a HUGE glass of water! I push thru this dreadful opening, I am slowly rewarded with a more pleasant experience. The strange opening recedes to the back (I still cannot figure out what it is, though), and something more green comes forth.

Although I never fall in love with this scent, this most recent wearing has proved much more pleasant!.
31st December, 2015 (last edited: 01st June, 2016)

Aleksandr by Arquiste

Oh my....I think I will need to purchase this for my husband to wear...this is nice...really nice...

It's a good thing I'm not prone to jealous rages...
31st December, 2015
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White Sea by Martine Micallef

I just received a mini bottle of this, and am testing it now; so far, I am enjoying what can best be described as a somewhat citrus opening, with a semi-floral and perhaps green and then something else middle that swirls around effortlessly in a way that just makes me feel good.

If I ever find a full bottle of this (mine is a 10 ml mini), I will definitely spring for it. This is fresh, greenish and clean, but has something more that I cannot quite describe. I can't stop sniffing my wrists!
30th December, 2015

Nardo by Madini

I'll be the first to throw a positive rating on this; it is a green, fresh and clean tuberose soliflore. It brings to mind spring walks in pretty gardens. In comparing this to Diptique's Olene (which I also enjoy), I think this is a better value, and offers an increased longevity due to the oil vs edt. Both are excellent, and if you are a tuberose fanatic, you ought to consider collecting both.
27th December, 2015

Mare by Slumberhouse

I'm at a loss for words to represent the feeling I get for wearing this memory. So many have already stated much better than I could how it repels and yet beckons. It is so curious in its confusion, and so unnerving in its ability to call to me.

I think about it even when wearing other scents.
20th December, 2015

Tabac Rouge / Turkish Blend by Phaedon

I get it...there are similarities with this and TV...but really, this is not the same, and as someone who owns both, I see reason to own both, because, well, they are DIFFERENT.

TV is more linear - I do not have an issue with this - in fact, I like it. Sometimes I want linear. Sometimes I do not want incense. And that, my friend, is where THIS fragrance comes in...

Tabac Rouge is the answer to what you may want from TV but fail to get - again - TV is its own thing - but sometimes you want more depth, more angle and more...questions from your scent. You want it to evolve into something that makes you think and feel more. I really get this is something of a layered story, one that evolves with time, and one that may make you think one thing one day, and quite another the next.

Don't hesitate to pick this bottle is quite a gem at this price!
17th December, 2015

Ambre Doré by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier


Nice and dirty! This is Amber and SEX!

I like this...a lot. I mean...I should finish this review, but my husband is downstairs...and...good LAWD this is nice! I really cannot think straight.
13th December, 2015

Harmatan Noir 11 by Parfumerie Generale

Ok, I either was given a mis-labeled house scent (no less directly from France as I received it with my order of Arabian Horse), or my nose is having a REALLY bad day!

All I get when I smell this is OUD! No mint, no tea, no jasmine, no fresh, no herbal...this is beyond weird and I am so disappointed!!

Nope...labeled clearly, been on my hand for an hour now...still smells of oud. Not even a hint of mint.

13th December, 2015

Rose Ishtar by Rania J

This is a really nice take on rose! It is rare that I try a rose and find something new to enjoy! I keep sniffing my wrist and trying to come up with ways to explain what I am experiencing...and I find I am at a loss!

I think early spring is a start - the scent of life after a cold winter, bursting forth, green and true with glorious colors and scents. There is a base of something woody and this may be the sandalwood. But it isn't too pronounced - just a frame, if you will. Perhaps a trellis. It alludes to Chanel's Coromandel, but this is the Spring version - lighter, airier, and greener.

I may need this...
13th December, 2015

Jasmin Kâma by Rania J

If I did not know this had jasmine in it, I would never know it had jasmine in it.

I have explored lots of jasmine oils, concretes, and absolutes. I enjoy all sorts of jasmines, clean, dirty, in between. But I swear I smell none of them here. I DO smell bergamot - LOTS of bergamot! I get some rose, some sort of patchouli, and maybe some musk, but the bergamot is so pronounced (at least in my sample, which was a house sample), that picking out other notes is rather difficult.

Here's the thing: it is not a bad fragrance. Neither is it amazing. It's pleasant and clean. For me, it just doesn't do enough to convince me I need it in my collection. The fact I cannot find the one note its named for is not exactly positive, which is why I am giving this a neutral.
13th December, 2015

Enslaved by Roja Dove

This is a particularly beautiful Chypre. I was uncertain as to whether I would enjoy it at the beginning, as it was very heavy on the powdery blast, but once that dissipated, I began to enjoy the unfolding of the various levels, and it really works for me. I love that I can pick out some Vetiver near the end. I think there is something animalic, but it is more of a whisper. Classy and modern.
10th December, 2015

Les Nombres d'Or : Ambre by Mona di Orio

A gorgeous dry amber for the woman who has them all...or wants them all.

I enjoy, I'm stalking amber. I just crave the stuff. Especially when its done so well. A bad amber gives me a migraine and lots of sadness. A good amber makes me stop and enjoy, but a great amber forces me to think and, of course, purchase! This was the latter.

This is a feminine amber, in my opinion. It is beautiful. It conveys strength without sacrificing beauty. I will soon have a bottle...
09th December, 2015
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Sel Marin by Heeley

Thanks to my good friend Purecaramel, I have finally been able to sample this gem!

This is definitely the aquatic I've been searching for. It smells exactly like the scent of being near the ocean. For me, it's a bit of a journey:

I first approach the beautiful verdant marshes of the NC and VA coasts. I was born and raised in NC, and I always enjoyed the boat rides thru the marshes to catch crabs in VA, or to simply enjoy the calm waters in NC. The opening and middle of this scent are a direct reminder of the salty scent upon the air, and the algae that, while pungent, is so calming and refreshing. I don't find it overwhelming to wear, and it seems natural - not synthetic and forced.

I next approach the beautiful beach - the warm (or cool) sand, and the view of that ever-expansive horizon and great blue water that I love so much. I feel an overwhelming sense of peace and joy. The beach and sea have always been Holy ground for me. The scent of this juice secures my mind of the very memories of standing on the beach. It is gorgeous. I realize that the top notes should be gone by now, but I think I am smelling some Italian Bergamot. There is something fresh, but not strong.

The last part is a symphony of warmth, sea spray and what smells to me like cucumber freshly sliced. It is so beautiful and un-pretentious. I absolutely love it, and can see this becoming a part of my collection - hopefully sooner than later!

Update: 2/11/16 I finally acquired this precious gem from a member of our community...I'll ask if I can give public accolades before I embarrass him :) Looking forward to summer more and more!
04th December, 2015 (last edited: 12th February, 2016)

Cilice by Euphorium Brooklyn


The notes are many, and can initially feel claustrophobic, but as they unfold (multiple times), it tells a rich story of far off places.

I am a huge fan of Labdanum, and it is here, balanced with Frankincense. The delicious warm and waxy feel of beeswax comes through, and the ambergris warms things up further. The Castoreum gives it a "wilder" feel, but all the other notes keep it reined in. I did not feel like the oud or leather was particularly strong (sometimes they can overwhelm my nose), which I was grateful.

Overall, this is really nice and for me, FBW.

Just wanted to add that I finally got a bottle tonight from my husband - very happy! Perfect birthday - Sushi and Cilice!

Update - allowing this gorgeous oil to masticate is truly something only a patient or forgetful (me) person could do - but if you can, it opens up more olfactory doors an offers the wearer a deeper journey that is well-worth the pursuit - goodness! Just get a 15 ml, and keep it stored away for a few years and then - wow! It only improves with time!
03rd December, 2015 (last edited: 03rd July, 2018)

Usar by Euphorium Brooklyn

This is delightful.

I am not very good at picking out notes (work in progress), but this is smokey, resinous and yet I get some green moments. It is occasionally sweet, but the sweetness is almost an undercurrent. I really enjoy this so far!

I've tried all three in this group, and both this and Cilice are my favorites. The depth is amazing, and it feels other-worldly in some ways.
03rd December, 2015

Wald by Euphorium Brooklyn

I agree with much of what Odysseusm wrote about the phases, but I get more rubber/aggarwood/oud in my sample, and it overwhelms the rest of the scent.

I think if you like Tom Ford's Tuscan Leather, you may like this. The leather I do smell, is rather similar.

Since these come in 15 and 30 ml bottles, and the price point is pretty reasonable, it's a good buy in my opinion...if you like the scent.

The other two in this group (Cilice and Usar) are really more up my alley. I plan to purchase both in the 15 ml bottles.
03rd December, 2015

Voyage by Hiram Green

I purchased my first bottle blind - the write-up on Twisted Lily just made me salivate. I took a chance and was very well rewarded.
The entire experience from start to finish is one of the most beautiful sensory experiences I have had since initially smelling House of Matriarch's Blackbird (now known as Black No. 1).

There is an elegance to this scent, something rather hard to explain. I have attempted to type a more technical review, but each time I realized it did nothing to truly explain this tour of scent. I'm at a loss to be more descriptive, and I fail readers by just typing out my emotional response. Truly, I am sorry. Since there are only 250 bottles made, and I now own two, it might not be so important to offer much more detail. I'd like to think this scent will be offered more readily in the future, however I could not in good reason resist a back-up. If there really are only 248 bottles remaining, my best advice would be "buy it now".
26th November, 2015

Criminal of Love by By Kilian

I have had an interesting time getting to know this juice. My first impressions were not the best, I'll admit. It comes out very powerful and overwhelming - that would be the "criminal" part, I suppose - I nearly felt as though I had been robbed of all my sensibilities as well as senses!

I placed it carefully in my decant container, and waited...

It has been about three months since I tried this the first time. I am not sure if its the change in the weather, or my opinion, but I'm truly enjoying this. Yes, it still comes out very powerfully - and this is not a short-lived sort of power...but it does eventually mellow out. Thank GOD!

As it lingers, I feel wrapped in a delicious blend of various warm scents, but none stands out more than the very jammy rose. "I need some toast, with this", methinks.

Heading into the drydown, it evokes the impressions of being in a tobacco barn, with the curing and smoke. It's a lot like driving in downtown Durham, NC back in the 80's, which is my hometown, incidentally. Definitely a positive scent!

I'm not sure if I'm up to taking the chance with a purchase overseas (Russia, to be exact), however I am grateful for this decant, and I'll enjoy it while I can.
24th November, 2015

Black II by AJ Arabia

I am really unsure as to whether I like wearing this or not. It isn't bad at fact, I enjoy smelling it! But as a scent for me to wear...I'm just not convinced we work well together. I also wonder if I'm too much of a girl to pull this powerhouse off.

The bottle and box are large and heavy. The bottle is thick glass, and has "presence". The box is just gorgeous! The cut-work (no doubt done by laser) is really beautiful and the entire presentation feels rather majestic.

The plum is nice, as are the other notes, but I smell more rose and musk, and perhaps some vanilla.

I had difficulty deciding between "thumbs up" and "neutral", but as it did not make me want to scrub it off, and its main fault is being too powerful for me, I can't really say that's the fault of the scent, but rather a personal feeling about how it interacts with me.
16th November, 2015

Fracas by Robert Piguet

Purchased the pure parfum 'cause a little dab'll do ya, dontcha' know?

Hell's bells this is some gorgeous tuberose! Don't think I've underestimated the power...oh no! I only wear this freakishly fabulous delight when I'm feeling and looking my best. No reason for someone to get whiplash and not have an eye-full, right? This requires a long, fitted skirt, I think. A short tweed jacket paired with a silk blouse. Tall boots. Feminine, without being overtly sensuous. The Fracas takes care of that, I do believe.

I seriously doubt I need to write much more. Do you?

Finished that awesome little parfum and replaced with the 50 ml edp - lovely as well! Still want the parfum, though...
09th November, 2015 (last edited: 09th June, 2017)

Finisterre by Maria Candida Gentile

I'm so confused.

I have always loved the scent of the ocean, the beach, the salt air. I dream of the waves crashing, and crave the warm crystals of sand between my toes.

So, why can I not find a scent that brings that to my nose? I am sad that this one did not do the trick, though it wasn't for lack of trying. I mean, it really tried. But, perhaps, it tried a bit too hard? I don't know. There is a lot going on here. It's daunting to try and figure out what I'm smelling, but I assure you, it is not the beach, the sea, the salt air, or the sand.

I keep trying to find a way to express my thoughts on this, but in all honesty, I simply want to run to the sink and scrub this off. Just remember, Finisterre rhymes with sinister. Maybe...I don't know.
07th November, 2015

Bois de Violette by Serge Lutens

This is a comfort-scent for me.

It's applying lipstick before a lone walk in the woods, just as the leaves begin to turn from summer to fall. The scent is really lovely. It is sweet, but the wood keeps it reined-in from becoming a pastry.

I think if you enjoy violet scents, this ought to be part of your wardrobe. It has "good bones".

I believe I'll need another bottle within the year.
27th October, 2015

Angel by Thierry Mugler

Migraine in a star-shaped bottle.

What on earth is that?

I cannot distinguish the notes. They seem squished together like sardines and I'm pretty sure they are angry with me.

Why did the bottle need to look like something reminiscent of decor belonging to Studio 54? Am I missing something? Is there a reference I'm supposed to be getting?

Ouch. The migraine is real.

25th October, 2015

Bleu de Chanel Eau de Toilette by Chanel

I received this from a trade here on the forums, and I consider it an excellent bargain.

I had no experience with the scent, and truly had no idea what to expect. I had not bothered to look up the notes, but as the bottle I traded it for wasn't working for me, I figured I'd take a chance and see if this would work for my beloved, and it does, thankfully.

The initial 15-20 minutes would have caused me to write this one off. I think my husband would have as well. The discussion we had provided opportunity for me to reinforce the concept of the dry-down, the phases of the top, middle and basenotes, and to get him to experience it for himself. Two hours or more later, my husband said "I don't know if you can still smell it, but what do you think?" - I had to laugh, because I could definitely still smell it, and it was really nice!

I told him I liked it and that I considered it "quite safe". He looked a bit confused, so I explained that this was the scent you wear when you are trying to not offend anyone, or if you are just wanting something that is easily a "people pleaser". He looked a little less confused.

I enjoyed the mint. It was unexpected and up-lifting. There is nothing magical or particularly amazing about this scent, but when I look at his ever-growing wardrobe (designed by me), I'm glad he has this new addition, as some of his others can be somewhat challenging, like his Slumberhouse (which I adore).

Chanel rarely does anything poorly, so it was with this - well done and glad to add it to the collection.
18th October, 2015

Isis by Agonist

I admit to not knowing much about this house or scent. I received this in a packet of samples from ordering something recently from Luckyscent. I'm just now testing it, and I'm pleasantly surprised, based upon the notes.

The top notes suggest a rather brusk and ragged start - thankfully, they are either wrong, or this head cold had blocked out all traces of startling and tangy notes. I didn't smell any of them!

Of the middle notes, I was persuaded to give into believing this was a Caramelized peach desert - and my mouth watered and wanted more! Scrumptious!

The basenotes...dear diary, I am a mere mortal, but thank you that I can reach the stars this night...

I need to fall in love with yet another new scent like Madonna needs to continue wearing revealing clothing and gyrating on stage. But this...I might need this.
12th October, 2015

L'Ombre dans L'Eau Eau de Toilette by Diptyque

I do not smell rose or blackcurrant anything.

I smell something burnt on an old stove that really needs cleaning.

How can this be worn with joy?

I tried. I hoped for better in the middle notes. Nope. It was still gross.

I even thought I would give it a chance for the basenotes - there is a faint fruit/berry. But it does not redeem the the entire experience.

I gave it two stars because of the base notes - it had some of the actual notes it claimed. Otherwise, it would have been a one.
12th October, 2015

Jardin d'Amalfi by Creed

Normally I cringe at the idea of wearing fruits...I eat them. But my goodness this is just splendid! I do not care if the genre has been done. So has rose - for centuries!

The blend of Rose, Neroli, berries, apples, and some woods (they say its Virginia Cededarwood, and having lived there a couple of years, and visiting quite regularly even now, I have no idea what they intend by that - I know the plant, I don't get its connection here) is a really nice and well-balanced composition. Very adult. No teens here.

Somewhere between the middle and basenotes, there is a weird skank isn't exactly "skank-sexy", but rather "skank maybe sexy"...sorta odd, and makes me want to spend more time with it, but then the dry down begins...

Because I own a rather large bottle of Haitian Vetiver, I can speak most clearly on that - it's here! And it is lovely. Sadly, I never smelled any cinnamon.

Warning: you may want to ignore this last part...I've somehow assumed the role of my husband's Italian way of telling a very short story very at your own risk of severe boredom!
I look forward to getting my husband's response. Earlier this summer he was asking if I had any fruity scents, which I emphatically said no, and he looked a bit startled and I may have shut down that conversation a bit too quick. However, you must understand, this is the wonderful man who purchased Blenheim Bouquet for me for Mother's Day, thinking it was exactly what I wanted. Poor man. I thought giving emphatic negative feedback was a logical way to go, but I think I frightened the man. Anyway (dear Lord, I think I've become a bit of an Italian from living with him for 10 years!), lately he has been really into the Slumberhouse stuff! Like really excited about pretty much everything I try, and when I compare it with stuff he previously liked...well...lets just say his taste in scent has altered dramatically! You had no idea you were a narcoleptic, did you?
WOOOOHOOOO!!!! After scouring the interwebs I finally found a 30 ml bottle of this lovely juice! I am so excited!! I've really been wanting this, but could not spring for the big bottle just now.
10th October, 2015 (last edited: 31st December, 2015)

Ryder by Ex Idolo

An erotic symphony of notes in crescendo at the start!

I respectfully disagree with the reviewer who stated that this was Tom Ford's Amber Absolute merged with Dior's Feve Delicieuse, though I can see how he arrived at this perspective. There are interludes of both, and the references are undeniable. However, this is not all that encompasses this exquisite collection of notes and movements, at least in my experience.

Perhaps it is the addition of jasmine that saves this composition from becoming simply a nice "cover" for the afore mentioned giants. Jasmine weaves in and out over and over, like a melody that never gets played enough, so you enjoy it when you hear it. It is simply well-done, and a joy to wear.

I'd like to mention that this was a complete blind purchase (as many in my wardrobe are), and anyone who enjoys these notes should not be disappointed.
10th October, 2015

Arabian Horse 3.1 by Parfumerie Generale

My first horse was an Arabian gelding named Brigadeer. Brig was quite a character and gained a following at shows, not because he won blue ribbons, but because watching him get off the trailer was quite a thrill for everyone who happened to be in the vicinity. Brig never did anything small - no, it was grandiose, all the way. He also made it a point to let the judges get to know him very well - by running them over. We were excused from as many classes as we finished.

I am not much of a fool for names, but I'll admit I wanted to love this juice when I heard the name. When I read the notes, I imagined the many days spent at the barn, cleaning stalls, feeding horses, bathing horses, handwalking horses, and just enjoying the scents that a barn holds for those who care to embrace the joys of the outdoors and the magnificent creatures housed in the beloved wooden structures.

I have searched for the perfect feminine leather for quite sometime. I've owned a few, and tried many more. What I have found frustrating over and over is the failure to capture the truest scent of a fine leather, such as the leathers used to make the custom saddles, bridles, and tall boots I wore. The feel and smell of fine leather - quality leather that allows you to feel the horse, yet that has the strength to move thru time and harsh treatment is rather unlike most leathers you see daily. I cannot describe the beauty and suppleness that comes with a fine English, French or Italian leather. The tanning process is much more refined and subtle. The chemicals less harsh, and the scent much more pure. It is an art. It is this scent I compare all leather perfumes to, and it is why so many fail for me.

When I stumbled across a tiny decant of this juice, I knew I had to have a full bottle. That was the worst part - getting a full bottle meant ordering directly from France, which is not cheap. The dollar is still not as strong as it used to be, and shipping is awful. But, I started selling off multiple bottles, and placed my order, and now I have my Precious!

When that box was delivered, I cried a little. I'm not joking at all. You see, I no longer have a horse. I gave up my most recent horse when my husband found out he had a rare form of cancer (all better now! Full remission!). I know I did the right thing, but I miss riding. Getting this bottle, well, I finally had an Arabian horse again. :)
09th October, 2015