Perfume Reviews

Reviews by landshark321

Total Reviews: 573

The Silk Series : Vanilla Silk by Gallagher Fragrances

Gallagher Fragrances Vanilla Silk is a simple exploration of vanilla and how it can be mixed with woods effectively. As the other reviewer points out, it smells a bit like vanilla mixed with musk and guaiac wood, soft and delicate relative to the vanilla but still providing some grounded woodiness.

Vanilla Silk's non-vanilla elements can be a little difficult to pin down, but they're not really cedar or incense (that would remind me of L'Occitane Eau Des Baux) nor a more complex offering (like Le Labo Vanille 44, which is also exorbitantly expensive).

The guaiac characterization really hits the heart of it---a sweet, soft wood, and it blends very well with the vanilla, which isn't a deep bourbon vanilla but rather a more floral vanilla that pairs with the wood in a year-round-friendly fashion.

The pricing in the Silk series is a little lower than the main catalog of Gallagher perfumes, so at $100 for 100ml, Vanilla Silk is reasonable to acquire.

Performance is very good, better than average a moderately-priced EDP.

This is likely my single favorite offering from the Gallagher house thus far. Very well done.

8 out of 10
20th September, 2017

Evergreen Dream by Gallagher Fragrances

This latest release from Gallagher Fragrances, Evergreen Dream, has all the makings of a great fragrance, and in fact reminds me of some very good ones.

It's the first entry from the house I've tried that's truly dominated by woods. Evengreen Dream's note listing is complex and long, and what it smells like to me is mainly a mix of pine resin and birch tar with some lavender and oakmoss for freshness and character, respectively. I can't say I get a ton of the galbanum or patchouli, but surely musk and cedar could be there, especially after a some hours of dry down.

It begins a bit sharper, likely due to the lime zest and grapefruit, but I don't specifically detect the juiciness of the fruit, but rather a generic sort of tang that hangs over top of the woody notes that start to emerge as the dominant accords very very quickly into wearing.

As it dries down, it's a predictably smoother, easier-to-wear blend, where the lavender factors in slightly but it's mostly the pine resin and birch tar duo, the stars of the show.

It reminds me, as Brooklyn Fragrance Lover points out, of the Tom Ford Private Blend Vert collection (Bois, Encens, etc.) in the greenness, but in its depth, it reminds me of Tom Ford Italian Cypress, perhaps some of the highest regards I can give a woody fragrance.

As with Daniel's other fragrances, Evergreen Dream performs very well and at $135 for 100ml, its pricing is agreeable, and much better than the abovementioned Tom Ford Private Blend offerings.

It only loses slight point for originality, and it's not quite as robust as the TFPBs, but it has very high value in terms of cost per ml and versatility, as it's a little more useful year-round than some of the over-the-top woody options out there.

7 out of 10
19th September, 2017

Viride by Orto Parisi

Viride is my second try from the house of Orto Parisi after Boccanera, and like Boccanera, I quite like Viride. Again omitting specific notes, perhaps a feature of this brand like Nasomatto, Viride is a green and woody fragrance as generally categorized.

It's hearty, with plenty of depth, so a mix of woods is what mainly comes to mind, though there's a slight, subtle brightness that allows it to be, at the same time, sort of green.

I can't quite discern what notes are involved, only that there's an earthy side to it as well, perhaps with patchouli or vetiver.

Performance is outstanding, as it was with Boccanera, definitely a little more impressive on longevity than projection, as many are, but still powerful juice if you dig the fragrance. The price of even a perfume ($195 for 50ml on Luckyscent et al) is difficult to justify unless it's a love, as almost $4 per ml is on the pricier side for sure.

Viride is certainly a fragrance worth trying, but I doubt anything but a dramatic price reduction could make me have any serious interest in buying it. Still, I rather like it, just don't love it.

7 out of 10
18th September, 2017
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Dambrosia by Profumum

Possibly inspired by the mythical Greek ambrosia, Profumum Dambrosia involves an unusual mix of pear, grape, fig, almond, and sandalwood. So in principle it should mostly be fruity with some slight sharp nuttiness and some woods to bring everything down to earth.

The fruity notes predictably, and perhaps appropriately, dominate this fragrance, as expected from its inspiration, ambrosia, usually portrayed as being fruit-dominant.

It leans feminine but is still largely what I'd consider unisex, as with most of Profumum's offerings, and as with most other Profumums, it performs very well, so there's that.

Still, I find Dambrosia largely unfocused and hard to wrap my head around. It's surely worth trying, though, as with almost all of Profumum's entries.

6 out of 10
15th September, 2017

Eccelso by Profumum

Profumum Eccelso is a great blend of bergamot, sandalwood, nutmeg, and musk, primarily, with some other supporting characters of patchouli and labdanum.

Mainly it feels like a variant of Creed Original Santal or Montblanc Individuel, a versatile (gender, occasion, season) winner of all sorts. Very sophisticated and fresh yet spicy and interesting with the sandalwood standing out most of all, as in the other fragrances.

Eccelso is also strong on performance, as most like myself expect of the Profumum brand.

While more expensive than most Profumum Roma offerings (at $290 for 100ml, whereas most are $250 or $265), there's nonetheless a case to be made on the superior performance of Eccelso to merit more consideration than a mainstay like Creed Original Santal, which itself isn't a bad performer. OS is still much cheaper by volume ($150ish for 4oz on FragranceNet, 8oz flacon for $280 on FragranceX) but I imagine Eccelso may strike a chord with someone who admires its superior performance.

8 out of 10
14th September, 2017

Thundra by Profumum

Profumum Thundra involves a relatively straightforward trio of mint, patchouli, and musk.

I'm generally not a fan of mint, but as with Viktor & Rolf Antidote, Thundra begins with a very tasteful use of mint in its opening, which ultimately gives way to the patchouli more so in the dry down, eventually to the point that it's basically a patchouli bomb with a hint of musk.

It smells gentlemanly and balanced at the beginning, and then mostly patchouli-dominant in the dry down. For many, I imagine this dry down is a good thing, but it's not quite for me. While I enjoy patchouli when mixed with other notes, a patchouli-dominant fragrance is rarely something I enjoy.

Thundra leans a little masculine, as I generally think of patchouli-dominant fragrances, but it's unisex enough for women. It's a great performer, as well, as is Profumum's signature, so there's value if you love the scent.

I like it and appreciate it, but just don't love it.

7 out of 10
13th September, 2017

Tobacco by Franck Boclet

Frank Boclet Tobacco is undoubtedly similar to Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille, so that much needs to be acknowledged upfront, as Tobacco is often connected to the TF masterpiece seven years its senior.

There's not much not to like in Tobacco, as it's a mix of tobacco, spices (like clove), vanilla, benzoin, and an added note of ginger. There's not quite as much ginger in this as in Phaedon Tabac Rouge, wherein the ginger takes over and for me, ruins the fragrance a bit, but enough in Tobacco to make it somewhat spicier and less sweet (also due to less vanilla) than Tobacco Vanille.

Tobacco's performance is fine but certainly falls well short of Tobacco Vanille, which is a significant detraction, but in general it's a great scent and one I might otherwise buy (more affordably than TV, at $135 for 100ml on Notino) if TV weren't so perfect already.

8 out of 10
08th September, 2017

Canfield Cedar by Kerosene

Kerosene Canfield Cedar is pretty straightforward in its cedar dominance, generally a token sign that a scent will be pleasant but inspiring. Cedar is a safe, soft note, perhaps the easiest wood to wear and smell in general, whether in a room or or skin or outdoors.

In this case, the fragrance includes not only the eponymous lead note but also sandalwood, teak, pepper, and musk. The pepper is palpable as the spicy contributor apart from the cedar, but the sandalwood and musk blend in rather seamlessly.

Performance-wise, projection is moderate but longevity is very good.

This is, for me, very enjoyable so I'm surprised to see that it's received lackluster grades, but the ceiling is relatively low for cedar-dominant scents, generally very pleasant but quite rarely great.

7 out of 10
07th September, 2017

Broken Theories by Kerosene

Kerosene Broken Theories is one of the houses newer releases from 2015, but I'm only finally testing it out today. It's mainly a mix of oud, incense, tobacco, vanilla, and vaguely, spices. I don't at all get the orange, but perhaps it's simply a fainter top note that would've faded for most, anyway. On me, it's a non-issue, and I'm pleased that it's not a distraction, at least.

It's not a surprise that it would seem to be more fitting to wear Broken Theories in cold weather than warm weather based on note breakdown alone, but admittedly the vanilla takes the edge off ever so slightly and keeps it from being overwhelmingly heavy and masculine, but it's still cold-weather-leaning and masculine, nonetheless.

I hold it in similar regard as I do Copper Skies--a "like" but not quite a "love," though right on the edge. Performance is very good in terms of both projection and especially longevity, so there's good value in the standard $140 for 100ml pricing for this cold weather, masculine EDP.

Partly, Broken Theories suffers from reminding me of Blackmail, my favorite fragrance from the house, in their common notes of vanilla and oud. However, whereas Broken Theories then adds on tobacco and incense, Blackmail instead adds berries, amber, and perhaps plum, fostering a sweet delight mixed with oud, and I confess I prefer it. So when I'm wearing Broken Theories, I end up of thinking of Blackmail and want that instead. Plus there's some inherent redundancy with Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille, perhaps without the oud, so I feel I've Broken Theories covered via other fragrances that I prefer. Still, a very solid entry in the house that I might've otherwise jumped on in other circumstances.

7 out of 10
06th September, 2017

Summer of 84 by Kerosene

The latest limited edition release by Kerosene, Summer of 84, is the most warm-weather-leaning creation of John's that I can recall trying. I haven't made my way through his whole catalog by any means but certainly the heavier/winter/gourmand scents have been the ones that have attracted me to the line.

My experience of this fragrance is dominated by the strong citrus element, specifically grapefruit, in addition to lemon and bergamot. It's very fresh, but sharp and tart, but thorough and natural-smelling. Mixed in with the citrus are white florals and musk, though I confess I don't get the melon note. Still, it remains citrus-dominant into the dry down, even. The other elements merely lie in the background.

Longevity is quite good but projection fades relatively quickly after application. Overall this is a lovely fresh fragrance to wear on a summer day but slightly above the cost of what I would expect for such a product, maybe by 50%.

7 out of 10
05th September, 2017

Oliver Peoples by Byredo

Byredo Oliver Peoples has a strong reputation in the line, and it's quite agreeable so I can see why.

It has aspects that remind me of, on the lighter side, Bal d'Afrique, and on the heavier/odder side, Westbrook, while not really being the "same" as either of those fragrances.

The notes are different, though--in BDA and Westbrook, vetiver and violet factor in significantly, but Oliver Peoples, the main players are juniper, lemon, iris, and patchouli, still fostering the fresh/fruity/sharp amalgam, but the similar vibes seem difficult to ignore.

It's a good performer, better than most of the Byredo freshies but not as strong as the heavier hitters, and so it's roughly in the area, price-wise, as well ($175 for 50ml), of needing to love it in order to buy it, and I can't quite say I'm sold on it.

Per Luckyscent, it's being discontinued, so I'd encourage anyone who hasn't tried it yet to get a sample, as it's agreeable juice and works well for various seasons and genders and is just simply worth trying.

7 out of 10
01st September, 2017

Amber Absolute by Tom Ford

Tom Ford Amber Absolute perhaps is as known as much for its power as it is for its quality, falling into the group of Private Blend fragrances (like Tobacco Vanille and Noir de Noir) that are regarded as extremely powerful for EDPs.

The note breakdown is relatively simple and straightforward: amber, incense, vanilla, labdanum, and woody notes. Overwhelming, the amber, vanilla, and incense dominate the experience of the fragrance. In essence, it's a pure expression of amber mixed with the sweeter vanilla and the spicier/floral elements as well.

I compared Amber Absolute to a few other amber fragrances (Tauerville Amber Flash, By Kilian Amber Oud, Le Labo Benjoin 19), and what's obvious about Amber Absolute is that it's perhaps the sweetest amber-dominant fragrances I've ever tried (while still being spicy and smoky due to the incense).

I have a 30ml decant but intend to buy a full bottle as the 2015 release is a limited edition, still, to my knowledge, available only at Neiman Marcus / Bergdorf Goodman in the US, and it's not difficult to imagine that it'll be discontinued again as the 2007 was.

Again, one of the great performers of all time and certainly of the TFPB, and a must-try for amber lovers and lovers of sweet gourmand winter fragrances alike. Superb.

10 out of 10
29th August, 2017

Oud Minérale by Tom Ford

Tom Ford's latest private blend release, Oud Minerale, ventures into similar territory as YSL M7 Fresh, combining the dark note of oud with other fresher elements. Whereas M7 Fresh is generally fresh and slightly seafaring, though, Oud Minerale seems wholly an aquatic/marine-mixed-with-oud scent, down its marrow.

Note-wise, oud is most prominent, as is expressed most substantially in the dry down, during which it almost has a slightly animalic vibe, but as far as the opening, the fresh blend consists of "aquatic notes," sea salt, pink pepper, and seaweed. With this blend, it's not as fresh as it is committed to the marine elements, which sometimes are not as fresh when they lean authentic. This feels authentic while still being artistic, perhaps not quite as raw or stale as the sea sometimes is but not as pretty as designer fragrances sometimes make aquatics (think Nautica).

Performance is decent, definitely better than most of the warm-weather-leaning private blend offerings, but at the same time, a far cry away from the house's heavier performers. Still, the performance isn't problematic as it is for, say, Rive d'Ambre. Someone that loves the smell of Oud Minerale and can afford it won't be discouraged by its performance, let's just say.

As the private blend pricing remains on the rise, now up to $230 for 50ml, one really does need to love one of their fragrances in order to merit buying a full bottle, and I'm not really there with this one. I prefer YSL M7 Fresh somewhat. Oud Minerale is quite good, but again, the full-bottle-worthy standard is highly, and predictably, so, as the cost-per-ml creeps closer to $5.

Still, a very good offering overall and welcome addition to the line, if nothing else.

7 out of 10
10th August, 2017
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M7 Fresh by Yves Saint Laurent

YSL M7 Fresh is connected to the original M7 that preceded it by their common use of oud, but Fresh is a significant departure in that it is far less of a deep, dark experience and far more of a fresh one, as its name rightly suggests.

I get a slight aquatic vibe despite the fresher components being grapefruit, ginger, neroli, and vetiver, none explicitly marine, but nonetheless excellently coupled with the bold oud that come out more in the dry down.

This reminds me of the recently-released Tom Ford (Private Blend) Oud Minerale in their similar pairing of oud with fresher elements.

Still pricey on the secondary market (as it's been discontinued for some years), M7 Fresh is nonetheless impressive in juggling the fresh elements and oud. In my mind, conceptually, this duality shouldn't work out well, but for some reason, it does, and I'm left impressed by it.

8 out of 10
09th August, 2017

Straight to Heaven Extreme by By Kilian

I hadn't anticipated a flanker to the original By Kilian Straight to Heaven, but Extreme is a pleasant surprise, and addresses some of criticisms of the original.

The original is celebrated for its purity, a clean, somewhat masucline expression of cedar, which is nice, but was a bit monotonous for my taste. The boozy additions of rum and vanilla in the Extreme flanker balance out the woodiness and give the blend more depth, variance, and frankly, strength. Extreme performs better than the original.

Extreme's cost is greater, at $315 for 50ml, contra the original's current pricing of $275.

Definitely a nice take on the original, and leaning toward a boozy and sweet subgenre that I'm a fan of. One I'd clean toward buying if I could find it at a discount.

8 out of 10
08th August, 2017

Wild Roses by Aftelier

Aftelier Perfumes Wild Roses is a mostly fresh, somewhat sweet take on the signature note, with what I detect to be a healthy dose of florals in addition to the main rose note, including the sweet heliotrope and bright gardenia. Also, apricot and vanilla add further sweetness in the dry down, even though, overall, it's not terribly sweet.

Inherently a bit feminine, it can nevertheless be regarded as somewhat unisex though I'd say it leans feminine overall, albeit a pleasant fresh option for men in the summer as well. It just might feel out of place in a formal setting.

Given the note breakdown, Wild Roses unsurprisingly isn't quite as robust as Vanilla Smoke or Amber Tapestry, but it's a decent performer.

With Aftelier's pricing, anything short of a "love" isn't worth purchasing, so Wild Roses is a hard pass for me, but it's pleasant enough that I would certainly wear it from time to time if I already owned it.

7 out of 10
01st August, 2017

Amber Tapestry by Aftelier

Mandy Aftel's Amber Tapestry is my second try from her house Aftelier Perfumes, and like Vanilla Smoke that I tried earlier, Amber Tapestry is a powerful and provocative concoction. An amber-dominant experience that blends both creamy and animalic aspects of the accord.

The animalic, spicy base actually doesn't come out for me any more in the dry down than in the opening, its mix of castoreum, coumarin, and ambergris fostering a sense of nuance, though, that pervades the fragrant experience from beginning to end.

Predictably a strong winter-ideal performer in the EDP strength I've tried, I imagine its pure perform concentration to be heavier and more powerful still, and at roughly four times the cost, it's enticing but certainly would expect the perfume to go the extra mile beyond the EDP.

I already own an animalic amber fragrance in Parfum d'Empire Ambre Russe but certainly Amber Tapestry has its own angles, its own points of intrigue that vary from Ambre Russe, yet categorically it might feel a little redundant anyway. Mandy's works is clearly lovely, but admittedly pricey, at $180 for 30ml of the EDP that I tried, and the same price for just 8ml of the perfume that I did not try. Still, this is great work.

8 out of 10
31st July, 2017

New York Musk by Bond No. 9

Bond No. 9 New York Musk seems to have the same DNA as New York Amber and New York Oud. As with those two, there's an appeal about it but something off about it at the same time.

Unsurprisingly there's a healthy dose of musk in Musk, along with a sweet blackcurrant accord to be make it more pleasant from the top down.

The base is just odd, though--the mix of patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver, and musk serving to create a bit of a funk that I don't get quite find endearing, despite the fresh and fruity opening elements.

It is, in some sense, likable, season-versatile, and unisex, but there's something amiss enough about it that I'd steer clear rather than spray it on again.

6 out of 10
28th July, 2017

Higher Energy by Christian Dior

It's nice to finally sample Dior Higher Energy, a purportedly fresh and sporty take on the more provocative, earlier Higher, which is now discontinued and I've not sampled.

Higher Energy is quite reasonable in most respects as a designer freshie, balancing freshness and being quite pleasant and agreeable with some degree of provocativeness. Pineapple and grapefruit are familiar opening contributors, while juniper and mint spike up the mix a bit. The fragrance dries down into a heart of incense and pepper, giving way to a base of what comes off to me as sandalwood, musk, and perhaps cedar.\

It's not specifically very masculine but perhaps leans slightly masculine with the inclusion of the pepper and incense, specifically, but it's a quite pleasant unisex freshie fragrance overall, more ideal in composition for warm weather but also due to performance, which isn't great, with mediocre projection and longevity.

Pricing is fair at $55 for 100ml on FragranceNet. I don't see any standard retail sources (like department stores) still selling it, so Higher Energy seems to be confined other retail sources (i.e. Walmart, vendors) and the secondary market.

One I'll likely try to acquire as, if I had to guess, this too will be discontinued at some point.

7 out of 10
26th July, 2017

Soliflore Rose de Mai by Dame Perfumery

Dame Perfumery's Soliflore Rose De Mai is bright and fresh, a bouquet of roses in your face, reminding me somewhat of the Desert Rose perfume that I tried a couple of years ago.

Rose De Mai isn't a type of rose that I'm very familiar with, but I like its expression here---sharp, bright, yet still refreshing. Feminine, but not terribly more so than any other fresh rose tends to be. Not my favorite type of rose composition but still somewhat interesting.

The Soliflore line offers a purity and freshness in florals, it seems, but that offers that challenge of enjoying just the singular floral note that accompanies each. Inherently it's feminine, despite me being a rose lover myself, but that's not generally problematic.

Performance is okay---not quite good or great, but just, say, average, mediocre for a freshie EDT.

Still, the craft and care of the brand and the perfumer Jeffrey Dame are obvious even though I confess this one isn't quite for me despite being, say, pleasant enough.

6 out of 10
25th July, 2017

Soliflore Tuberose by Dame Perfumery

Dame's Soliflore line seems to be a great concept, especially form women, in exploring fresh florals. Tuberose is a not I sometimes like but sometimes don't, and in Dame's creation, I'm roughly on the fence here as well.

To Jeffrey's credit, it does make me think (and I don't claim to be a tuberose or floral expert) of a natural tuberose, neither as sweet nor as sharp as some creations I've tried. Overall quite fresh, without any other detectable accords, it's a predictably feminine-leaning but still pleasant floral, and decent-performing considering its composition, but not one I'd reach for.

6 out of 10
24th July, 2017

Boccanera by Orto Parisi

Boccanera is my first try from the house of Orto Parisi as it's seemingly one of the higher-reputed entries from the line, and certainly the most-discussed that I've seen.

It's a nice dark composition, a mixture of chocolate, pepper, and sandalwood, primarily, with hints of ginger and musk. Fortunately, this in case, ginger does not spoil the fragrance, but its own spicy aspect does distract from the pepper's, not add to it, unfortunately. Still, the overall blend is nice---a bold, cold-weather-leaning beast that performs admirably and combines the sweet and spicy and woody.

In the US it seems to be available only at Luckyscent and Bergdorf Goodman for its standard pricing of $195 for 50ml, slightly cheaper than a Tom Ford Private Blend (though unlike the TFPB, not available in higher volume bottles like flacons). I'd say at this price point, it's roughly in the category of one needing to really love it in order to buy it, and I'm just not quite that sold on it. I like the balance of it, but I'm simply not swooning over it. Still, a nice first impression of the house for me.

7 out of 10
20th July, 2017

Victrix by Profumum

Profumum Victrix is a semi-fresh, semi-spicy blend that reminds me more of a fougere than a truly woody or earthy scent. A mix of pink pepper, coriander, vetiver, musk, and oakmoss, it's smooth but edgy at points as well.

Not especially strong for a Profumum but still quite good in the scheme of things, Victrix lends itself toward year-round wear, both spicy enough for the colder months and fresh enough for the warmer months.

Certainly one that intrigues me, I'll have to try Victrix some more. I'm not fully sold on it but definitely regard it was decant-worthy.

7 out of 10
19th July, 2017

Volo AZ 686 by Profumum

Profumum Volo AZ 686 combines the sweetness of vanilla and coconut with the bright white floral gardenia. It's refreshing, not with a caked or boozy vanilla but more of a light rendition that blends well with the floral elements. The use of coconut isn't so heavy-handed that it distracts from the other elements. If anything, the coconut is the weakest of the triumvirate.

It reminds me a little bit of Battito d'Ali but less floral and sweeter, and so I prefer it a bit do Battito d'ALi since it agrees more with my enjoyment of sweet scents.

Feminine, sure, but not unwearable for most men, though that's a matter of taste. I find that the harmony among the vanilla, coconut, and gardenia keeps it unisex, whereas a gardenia-dominant fragrance would be inherently feminine.

Definitely an underdiscussed member of the Profumum family, Volo AZ 686 is yet another entry that merits trying, if nothing else. I'm not sure it's full bottle worthy for me, but I hope to obtain a split at some point to keep trying it out.

7 out of 10
18th July, 2017

Dulcis in Fundo by Profumum

Another impressive entry from the house of Profumuma Roma, Dulcis in Fundo embarks us on a fragrant journey with two familiar tools, vanilla and fruit, used in a precisely-nuanced way to show us something different and exciting while similarly reminding me, at least, of both Meringa and Acqua e Zucchero a little bit each.

Dulcis in Fundo brings a boozy vanilla together with what seems to be a mix of citruses, but primarily orange, perhaps paired with orange blossom. Unlike Meringa, though, it's not a creamy meringue-esque type of combination. Rather, the citrus component in DIF does has some tartness to it, so as one reviewer suggests, it might involve bergamot. Still, the relationship between the vanilla and citrus is very harmonious. It might lean slightly toward vanilla, particularly in the dry down, but the force of either is on par with the other.

Performance is, as has come to be the standard of the line, exceptional. A very strong projector but unusually long-lasting, Dulcis in Fundo requires only a couple of sprays to yield a comfortable scent cloud.

I find that DIF might work better as a cold weather option, contra Acqua e Zucchero being more apropos for warm weather, at least in my opinion.

DIF is similarly to both AEZ and Meringa but is special in its own right, and I'll probably be inclined to buy a bottle in the next year or so.

8 out of 10
17th July, 2017

L'Eau by Tauer

Tauer Perfumes L'Eau has received a lot of critical acclaim online, and certainly makes a bit of an impression upon first application. It answers the question (not that I was asking) of what citrus mixed with iris smells like.

It's a very citrus-heavy opening, apparently a mix of lemon, bergamot, and orange: I definitely get the orange the least, as it's fresh, but more toward the tart side of the lemon and bergamot. Mixed in with the iris, though, the blend is especially sharp, but dries down more comfortably into a mix of musk and sandalwood. Even in the dry down, though, it's still sharp, the citrus (slightly) and iris (noteworthily) still present.

Overall, it's a nice addition to the Tauer line, a robust freshie with well above average lasting power for a scent with its note breakdown, and a solid unisex summer day option. It walks the line between sophisticated and freewheeling.

I'm not sure I'll run out to buy this one, but maybe pursue a split in the meantime. Certainly this is one that merits trying, like so many of Andy Tauer's offerings.

7 out of 10
13th July, 2017

Soliflore Mimosa by Dame Perfumery

Dame Perfumery Soliflore Mimosa is the first offering from the Soliflore line that I've tried, and I generally don't dabble in floral-heavy offerings except for rose, so this is a bit odd to my nose. Clearly a fresh yellow floral, and inherently feminine, but it's not dazzling to me in any particularly special way. Medium performance, better than some of the other women's EDTs from the line, but uninspiring, at least to me as a man. Slightly interesting, though. I'll still be curious to try other Soliflores out.

6 out of 10
12th July, 2017

Passion Fruit, Orange Blossom & Vetiver by Dame Perfumery

Dame Perfumery Passion Fruit, Orange Blossom, & Vetiver is, as expected, fruity due to the passion fruit and fresh due to the orange blossom.

Other supporting notes include grapefruit at the top and musk in the base, though admittedly this doesn't smell all that complex overall. The passion fruit is fairly palpable at the opening as well before relatively quickly drying down into a more mellow fruity/woody/musky blend.

Quite agreeable and unisex, an easy summer reach.

This fragrance is fleeting, though, perhaps the most fleeting of any of Dame's offerings that I've tried.

Still, the scent is quite nice so it'd surely serve many well as an ephemeral option.

7 out of 10
11th July, 2017

Mandarin, Neroli & Cedar by Dame Perfumery

Dame Perfumery Mandarin, Neroli, & Cedar is the first EDT offering I've sampled and it does not disappoint. A fresh combination of the three titular notes along with a host of other supporting floral and woody accords, the fragrance is a unisex, agreeable daytime summer option for all ages. Vetiver and musk round out the detectable notes, but certainly I'm open to the idea that there are at least some more florals involved beyond the neroli.

This is a simple mix, to my nose, and its simplicity is what makes it effortless to wear and great to reach for in any scenario. Its main pitfall is performance, which, at its concentration (EDT) and price point ($65 for 100ml) is predictable and perhaps tolerable, but I'm not sure I've a specific need for this fragrance, as much as I do appreciate it and would wear it if I had it.

7 out of 10
10th July, 2017

Olibanum by Profumum

Profumum Olibanum is, as its name suggests, an incense-dominant fragrance, and one done very well. Smooth, strong incense dominate the scent. Mainly a combination of incense, sandalwood, and myrrh to my nose, surely this is a winter fragrance that leans masculine. I doubt I'd find myself wearing it in the summer heat.

As with most Profumum fragrances I've tried, the care and quality of Olibanum is obvious.

It reminds me of By Kilian Incense Oud in terms of both its incense dominance and smoothness, and especially since the orange blossom that some seem to find so apparent is so reticent in my own experience of the fragrance.

Performance is unsurprisingly very strong, characteristic of the house, particularly its cold-weather-leaning offerings like this, Arso, Ambra Aurea, etc.

Certainly full bottle worthy if I didn't already own By Kilian Incense Oud.

8 out of 10
07th July, 2017