Perfume Reviews

Reviews by landshark321

Total Reviews: 550

Volo AZ 686 by Profumum

Profumum Volo AZ 686 combines the sweetness of vanilla and coconut with the bright white floral gardenia. It's refreshing, not with a caked or boozy vanilla but more of a light rendition that blends well with the floral elements. The use of coconut isn't so heavy-handed that it distracts from the other elements. If anything, the coconut is the weakest of the triumvirate.

It reminds me a little bit of Battito d'Ali but less floral and sweeter, and so I prefer it a bit do Battito d'ALi since it agrees more with my enjoyment of sweet scents.

Feminine, sure, but not unwearable for most men, though that's a matter of taste. I find that the harmony among the vanilla, coconut, and gardenia keeps it unisex, whereas a gardenia-dominant fragrance would be inherently feminine.

Definitely an underdiscussed member of the Profumum family, Volo AZ 686 is yet another entry that merits trying, if nothing else. I'm not sure it's full bottle worthy for me, but I hope to obtain a split at some point to keep trying it out.

7 out of 10
18th July, 2017

Dulcis in Fundo by Profumum

Another impressive entry from the house of Profumuma Roma, Dulcis in Fundo embarks us on a fragrant journey with two familiar tools, vanilla and fruit, used in a precisely-nuanced way to show us something different and exciting while similarly reminding me, at least, of both Meringa and Acqua e Zucchero a little bit each.

Dulcis in Fundo brings a boozy vanilla together with what seems to be a mix of citruses, but primarily orange, perhaps paired with orange blossom. Unlike Meringa, though, it's not a creamy meringue-esque type of combination. Rather, the citrus component in DIF does has some tartness to it, so as one reviewer suggests, it might involve bergamot. Still, the relationship between the vanilla and citrus is very harmonious. It might lean slightly toward vanilla, particularly in the dry down, but the force of either is on par with the other.

Performance is, as has come to be the standard of the line, exceptional. A very strong projector but unusually long-lasting, Dulcis in Fundo requires only a couple of sprays to yield a comfortable scent cloud.

I find that DIF might work better as a cold weather option, contra Acqua e Zucchero being more apropos for warm weather, at least in my opinion.

DIF is similarly to both AEZ and Meringa but is special in its own right, and I'll probably be inclined to buy a bottle in the next year or so.

8 out of 10
17th July, 2017

L'Eau by Tauer

Tauer Perfumes L'Eau has received a lot of critical acclaim online, and certainly makes a bit of an impression upon first application. It answers the question (not that I was asking) of what citrus mixed with iris smells like.

It's a very citrus-heavy opening, apparently a mix of lemon, bergamot, and orange: I definitely get the orange the least, as it's fresh, but more toward the tart side of the lemon and bergamot. Mixed in with the iris, though, the blend is especially sharp, but dries down more comfortably into a mix of musk and sandalwood. Even in the dry down, though, it's still sharp, the citrus (slightly) and iris (noteworthily) still present.

Overall, it's a nice addition to the Tauer line, a robust freshie with well above average lasting power for a scent with its note breakdown, and a solid unisex summer day option. It walks the line between sophisticated and freewheeling.

I'm not sure I'll run out to buy this one, but maybe pursue a split in the meantime. Certainly this is one that merits trying, like so many of Andy Tauer's offerings.

7 out of 10
13th July, 2017
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Soliflore Mimosa by Dame Perfumery

Dame Perfumery Soliflore Mimosa is the first offering from the Soliflore line that I've tried, and I generally don't dabble in floral-heavy offerings except for rose, so this is a bit odd to my nose. Clearly a fresh yellow floral, and inherently feminine, but it's not dazzling to me in any particularly special way. Medium performance, better than some of the other women's EDTs from the line, but uninspiring, at least to me as a man. Slightly interesting, though. I'll still be curious to try other Soliflores out.

6 out of 10
12th July, 2017

Passion Fruit, Orange Blossom & Vetiver by Dame Perfumery

Dame Perfumery Passion Fruit, Orange Blossom, & Vetiver is, as expected, fruity due to the passion fruit and fresh due to the orange blossom.

Other supporting notes include grapefruit at the top and musk in the base, though admittedly this doesn't smell all that complex overall. The passion fruit is fairly palpable at the opening as well before relatively quickly drying down into a more mellow fruity/woody/musky blend.

Quite agreeable and unisex, an easy summer reach.

This fragrance is fleeting, though, perhaps the most fleeting of any of Dame's offerings that I've tried.

Still, the scent is quite nice so it'd surely serve many well as an ephemeral option.

7 out of 10
11th July, 2017

Mandarin, Neroli & Cedar by Dame Perfumery

Dame Perfumery Mandarin, Neroli, & Cedar is the first EDT offering I've sampled and it does not disappoint. A fresh combination of the three titular notes along with a host of other supporting floral and woody accords, the fragrance is a unisex, agreeable daytime summer option for all ages. Vetiver and musk round out the detectable notes, but certainly I'm open to the idea that there are at least some more florals involved beyond the neroli.

This is a simple mix, to my nose, and its simplicity is what makes it effortless to wear and great to reach for in any scenario. Its main pitfall is performance, which, at its concentration (EDT) and price point ($65 for 100ml) is predictable and perhaps tolerable, but I'm not sure I've a specific need for this fragrance, as much as I do appreciate it and would wear it if I had it.

7 out of 10
10th July, 2017

Olibanum by Profumum

Profumum Olibanum is, as its name suggests, an incense-dominant fragrance, and one done very well. Smooth, strong incense dominate the scent. Mainly a combination of incense, sandalwood, and myrrh to my nose, surely this is a winter fragrance that leans masculine. I doubt I'd find myself wearing it in the summer heat.

As with most Profumum fragrances I've tried, the care and quality of Olibanum is obvious.

It reminds me of By Kilian Incense Oud in terms of both its incense dominance and smoothness, and especially since the orange blossom that some seem to find so apparent is so reticent in my own experience of the fragrance.

Performance is unsurprisingly very strong, characteristic of the house, particularly its cold-weather-leaning offerings like this, Arso, Ambra Aurea, etc.

Certainly full bottle worthy if I didn't already own By Kilian Incense Oud.

8 out of 10
07th July, 2017

Neroli by Profumum

Profumum Neroli is one of the more interesting takes on a neroli-dominant scent that I've had the pleasure to sample lately. It smells of not only the general idea of neroli, but also of a hearty petitgrain that provides a raw earthiness to complement the usual brightness of the neroli vibe, made possible via the inclusion of orange blossom (it's not clear if neroli is actually a listed note, or, if like Orangea, it smells like orange blossom without actually having orange blossom in it).

It's a fine performer, on par with most of the warm-weather Profumum offerings, but a hard sell for me at the usual $250 due to the lack of superlative strength or scent.

Tom Ford Neroli Portofino Forte remains the king neroli for me, and while much more exorbitantly priced itself, I still find it more worthwhile than an entry like Profumum's Neroli. Still, Profumum's is a worthy take on the concept--worthy of sampling, for sure.

7 out of 10
06th July, 2017

Orangea by Profumum

Profumum Orangea is one of the newer releases, a green citrus amalgam of bergamot, petitgrain, cedar, and mint.

I don't get so much of the bergamot except at the very opening, after which the petitgrain mostly takes over, along with a hint of mint.

It's a little green and more citrus at the opening, and then considerably greener and woodier in the dry down.

Performance seems fine, on par with the usual high Profumum standard, even for warm weather fragrances.

I can see why many would like this due to its greenness, and while I'm usually not a fan of green fragrances, this is well done, though I'm not sure it's full bottle worthy.

7 out of 10
05th July, 2017

Black Phantom : Memento Mori by By Kilian

By Kilian Black Phantom is a nice addition to the line and a recipient of plenty of enthusiasm and frankly hype from the online community, especially since it immediately followed the lukewarmly-received Noir Aphrodisiac, which I've not yet tried.

Branded as a gourmand, Black Phantom lives up to the hype, a balanced mix of rum, sugar, coffee, chocolate, and caramel. Most of these notes seem to be in harmony with one another, and I confess I don't really detect the almond or heliotrope listed, but they could just minor players relative to the enormity of gourmand notes.

I enjoy the touch of caramel as I find it used less in fragrances I tend to prefer than coffee or chocolate or rum. It makes for a pleasant blend that has a touch of each of the quintet of main notes.

It's not an especially dark fragrance, though, to me. It's just very desserty and less so a breakfast type of concept.

It's important to note that Black Phantom isn't a powerhouse performer in the way of, say, Shihan/Sensei by Piotr Czarnecki that simply represents a mixture of various gourmand winter notes. Rather, Black Phantom is a very good performer, certainly up to what I'd expect of a winter-leaning By Kilian fragrance, but actually slightly more welcoming in its non-beastliness than a stronger counterpart might be.

Agreeable for men and women, and while generally a winter option, also something that could be pulled off in light application on summer nights, Black Phantom checks most of my boxes for a fragrance worth occupying, and it deviates from enough other gourmands that I'm a fan of (Bond No. 9 ILNYFA and New Haarlem both come to mind) so it has enough uniqueness going for it to be worth considering buying.

I'm an instant fan and it's on my list.

8 out of 10
29th June, 2017

Bergamust by Gallagher Fragrances

Bergamust is probably the most popular offering of Gallagher Fragrances, and it's an interesting take on a freshie concept that deviates significantly from the normal experience, mainly since the bright, citrus opening is relatively limited and gives way to a dry down that's more mixed.

Specifically, the fragrance opens with bergamot and then orange blossom is added in with cedar, ambroxan, iso super E, and musk. The cedar, ambroxan, iso super E, and musk all sort of blend together and begin to first overtake the brightness of the bergamot. In this respect, it's distinct from much of what's out there on the market that stays relatively bright and citrus-dominant in the dry down.

Not quite for me, but a great concept as far as taking the top out rather early and providing a different sort of freshie experience.
28th June, 2017

Amongst Waves by Gallagher Fragrances

Gallagher Fragrances' Amongst Waves has perhaps achieved the most acclaim of any of its offering except perhaps Bergamust. Certainly its name conjures the aquatic, perhaps specifically the sea, and I believe it consistently reminds me of the ocean via a salt water note that figures prominently in the experience.

The honeydew is featured front-and-center, though, and while paired with a combination of several citruses, yields a bright and acerbic opening that eventually gives way to a more balanced coupling of the still-dominant melon with some of the other floral and still-lingering citrus, eventually softening further into a base of vanilla and patchouli.

It's a unique taken on melon that, to me, deviates comfortable from Creed Millesime Imperial and Sean John Unforgivable, the oft-referenced melon-intensive options that similarly favor warm weather wearing.

At the standard current pricing of $135 for 100ml, one probably has to be close to loving Amongst Waves to buy it, and it's not that I find the pricing unreasonable, but I don't think I quite like enough to buy it myself, though. If it sounds intriguing, though, it sure merits trying.

A fun, inventive take on both melon and marine notes by Daniel Gallagher.

7 out of 10
27th June, 2017

Saint Julep by Imaginary Authors

Imaginary Authors' latest release quite overtly takes from the mint julep drink as its main inspiration, and while I cannot claim to have even tried the drink itself more than a couple of times in my life, I'm nonetheless still enchanted by the fragrance that takes on the challenge of creating a cocktail that smells nice on skin.

It's a harmonious blend of mint, bourbon, and sugar, primarily. The mint, most importantly, is not like toothpaste or chewing gum, nor is it medicinal, so it occupies the space of smelling like the natural plant mint leaves that we associate with mint juleps and mojitos, providing the requisite green sharpness without any negative connotations with processed items. The mint is strongest at the opening, after which it gives way someway to the bourbon and sugar; this is palpably a sweet liquor blend, not even liqueur, but liquor on the one hand coupled with lots of sugar on the other. This isn't a distinction I'd usually make but it's important to note here that the non-mint aspect of this is very sweet, sweeter than liqueurs, even, at times.

It's the balance between the mint and the bourbon/sugar pairing that is the achievement most worth noting in Saint Julep. Even though I'm always excited to see the next Imaginary Authors fragrance, I was a little pessimistic about this since I'm not usually a mint fan (save examples like Viktor & Rolf Antidote that I love), but mint is used so sensible in Saint Julep, not necessarily restrained but only in the appropriate quantity.

And of course, I like boozy scents, so this fits the bill.

The main detraction, if it can be called that, even, is that, performance-wise, Saint Julep leaves a little bit to be desired relative to its company in the Imaginary Authors house, and the case may simply be that it's more fitted for lighter wearing, or at least for warm-weather wearing, but it's certainly nowhere near the likes of A City on Fire, Memoirs of a Trespasser, and my personal favorite, Cape Heartache. It's even slightly below the two saffron-dominant releases, An Air of Despair and Slow Explosions, and is best analogized to Every Storm a Serenade (I've rattled off every IA bottle that I own).

This is fine, though, as the scent itself makes me think of summer (perhaps being at the Kentucky Derby or reading F. Scott Fitzgerald's "The Great Gatsby," which increased awareness of the mint julep, at least mine) and it's certainly better-suited for warm weather wearing than cold weather wearing.

Certainly worth trying if it sounds interesting, but that it would be interesting was almost a given, given that it's an Imaginary Authors scent. So many hits, I'll have to nab a bottle of this and can't wait to see what's next.

8 out of 10
26th June, 2017
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Bergamust Noir by Gallagher Fragrances

Bergamust Noir is the latest, limited edition (50 bottles only) release from this house of Texas now in business for about a year. I purchased a sample set July 2016 before any of the fragrances were on Fragrantica or Basenotes, and so this is my first feedback on a fragrance.

The original Bergamust is a strong-performing freshie, well-liked, likely the most beloved of Daniel Gallagher's original collection (my personal favorite was Carpe Cafe). Bergamust Noir, then, conjures a mixture of the original Bergamust mixed with darker elements.

In trying to achieve this balance, I believe Daniel Gallagher mostly succeeds in Bergamust Noir, as the dominant blend I get is between the orange blossom and tangy/smoky vibe. I definitely like it but I'm not sure it's full bottle worthy, though I can imagine this being quite popular for men and women alike. A nod to Bergamust while certainly being more of a cold weather fragrance, at least on my skin.

7 out of 10
23rd June, 2017

Rose of No Man's Land by Byredo

Byredo Rose of No Man's Land is definitely a slight improvement on Rose Noir, by having at least an interesting, contrasting mix of notes that complement the rose: raspberry, pepper, amber, and papyrus to my nose, mainly, and I mean in this sense that the papyrus is what I assume to be the vague woodiness I get in the dry down, as I'm not familiar with the note of papyrus.

Like Rose Noir, the rose note (for me) falls somewhere between fresh and heavy, and is the main feature.

Performance is decent, but Rose of No Man's Land again falls victim to being good but not good enough to buy at Byredo's pricing, even if slightly discounted on the secondary market. Still, it is pleasant and I'd be happy to wear it further if I already owned it.

7 out of 10
22nd June, 2017

Rose Noir by Byredo

Byredo Rose Noir suggests "dark" in its name, but I don't get much of that vibe from the fragrance itself. It's an agreeable semi-fresh, semi-powdery rose-dominant scent with fresh grapefruit and freesia in the opening, drying down to a musky, slightly woody base.

It's seemingly versatile (not that dark), so there's value in that, and while it leans somewhat feminine, rose-loving men would have no trouble pulling this off, either.

It's also a decent performer, walking the line between some of the weaker summer scents (i.e. the EDCs, BDA) and more powerhouse winter scents (i.e. 1996).

As with many of the house's scents, though, Rose Noir falls into the "good but not great" category, very pleasant to smell and wear, and I'd wear it again sometime perhaps, but it moves the needle so little, particularly given the abundance of rose-dominant fragrances, that I wouldn't give much further thought to buying it.

7 out of 10
21st June, 2017

Mojave Ghost by Byredo

Byredo Mojave Ghost walks the unisex line well while performing admirably for a warm-weather-leaning option.

Full of magnolia with other supporting elements like sandalwood and cedarwood, I'm mostly miffed by how the top notes---somewhat unfamiliar to me---factor in. They ambrette seed and sapodilla fruit. I'm curious, as I know neither, but they seem to facilitate sweetness and freshness that complements the burst of magnolia that comprises most of my experience of the fragrance.

MG performs a bit better than most of the Byredo fragrances that are geared, in my opinion, toward warmer weather use, perhaps slightly better than the Sunday Cologne EDP that I own, and on par with some of the other EDPs in the line that aren't like the heavy-hitting 1996, for example.

Overall, a pleasant experience, and one of the better productions of the house of Byredo.

7 out of 10
20th June, 2017

Mister Marvelous by Byredo

In trying the EDC version of Mister Marvelous, I was expecting roughly a performance bar set by the EDC of Gypsy Water, and MM turned out to be the same---a fresh, fleeting fragrance that leaves a lot to be desired in the area of performance while simultaneously suggesting that the EDP version could be promising.

MM is a citrus, green, slightly floral mix that doesn't lean especially masculine despite seemingly being characterized that way. Main notes include mandarin (not the fruit but the leaf, hence the greenness I get out of it), neroli, lavender (again, GREEN lavender, though I'm unfamiliar with its distinction from most lavender), and cedar.

It's a nice scent, for sure, and one I'd like to see a more robust version of, so I'll have to try the EDP.

7 out of 10
19th June, 2017

Encens Chembur by Byredo

Byredo Encens Chembur, also known simply as Chembur, is another odd creation by the house, a mix of incense and citrus, primarily, which instantly makes me think of two opposing seasons, with some ginger mixed it for good measure to cock it up.

It's not an unpleasant scent but it's unclear how or why one would wear this. It's roughly the same concept as the Acqua di Parma Colonia Leather, Oud, and Amber trio (with more entries since), where the very summery Colonia is mixed with heavier, wintery elements, though ADP's execution is excellent, and Byredo's just seem like a bit of a mishap.

For me, Encens Chembur lingers somewhere between mediocre and good, but not worth wearing a second time, still.

6 out of 10
16th June, 2017

Bullion by Byredo

Byredo Bullion is an odd one, no doubt. It involves the intersection of several different genres but doesn't seem to take on one in particular. It's fruity with plum, floral with magnolia and osmanthus, and woody with sandalwood, not to mention the leather.

To my nose, the plum stands out the most, as it's fruity first, and the rest of the other attributes are featured in relative harmony with one another.

Performance is decent, wearability is year-round and versatile, though I don't regard it in very serious terms, and it's surely quite unisex. I just find myself mostly puzzled by it and while slightly drawn to it, not inclined remotely to buy it.

7 out of 10
15th June, 2017

Blanche by Byredo

Byredo Blanche is mainly a musky floral with a heavy dose of rose from its onset, in contrast to more yellow floral La Tulipe. Blanche, like La Tulipe, is fresh, traditionally feminine-leaning, and somewhat fleeting, but is agreeable in its composition.

Other supporting notes include pink pepper, sandalwood, and other florals like peony, and these foster subtle nuances, making it more interesting than boring but ultimately a little unconvincing for its retail or even discounted Byredo pricing. I might be interested in a bottle for $25 but not for 5-10 times that. Still, a pleasant scent that's worthy of trying. This is one of the more balanced florals I've tried previously.

7 out of 10
14th June, 2017

La Tulipe by Byredo

Byredo La Tulipe is a very agreeable floral fragrance, certainly inherently geared toward female wearers in the conventional sense, but very nicely balanced, especially as it dries down.

It's mainly tulips, with some other florals mixed, and the main element that's mixed in the dry down is vetiver, to my nose, and perhaps a little musk.

Slightly fresh, slightly herbal, almost borderline citrus-smelling, though without any listed citrus notes.

Performance is adequate, certainly better than the Gypsy Water EDC but certainly not as robust as more of the cold-weather-leaning Byredo options.

Definitely one of the nicer Byredo offerings I've tried to date. Nothing something of which I'd buy a full bottle, but a pleasant one to wear.

7 out of 10
13th June, 2017

Gypsy Water by Byredo

I've tried the EDC version but not the EDP version, so this is in reference to the former incarnation of Byredo Gypsy Water, as it's one of a handful of offerings by the house to be offered in 50/100ml EDP bottles and 250ml EDC bottles.

To highlight the obvious, the EDC is obviously not much of a performer, but that's to be expected. I've not tried the EDP but I imagine it's a bit stronger, and better be, given the much higher cost per volume.

That said, Gypsy Water is a pleasant aquatic, a mix of citrus (lemon/bergamot), pine, and sandalwood, primarily, to my nose, though a handful of other notes are listed. I don't get any vanilla, for example. Still, it's a good blend, and I'd be curious to try the EDP to see if performance is better.

While the scent is nice, I certainly wouldn't opt to buy this, at $240 for a 250ml bottle. Far too expensive for the weak spray that it is.

7 out of 10
12th June, 2017

Black Saffron by Byredo

Immediately reminiscent of Tom Ford Tuscan Leather, Byredo Black Saffron is sort of a more saffron- and herbal-leaning take on Tuscan Leather.

It has many of same characteristic notes, not the least of which is the pairing of raspberry and suede.

Performance is decent, consistent with other more cold-weather-leaning Byredos.

I'm not the biggest fan of Tuscan Leather (I haven't deemed it or PDM Godolphin to be full-bottle-worthy) but it's certainly superior to Black Saffron, so those looking for a slightly cheaper clone should look elsewhere, but those looking for a twist on TL might enjoy this more.

7 out of 10
09th June, 2017

Palermo by Byredo

Byredo Palermo is a great fresh citrus blend, tart from what seems like a mix of grapefruit, pomelo, and bergamot, and anchored by some light musky elements and rose underneath.

Like Pulp, Palermo is an entry I find to be a fun, fresh take on a summer fragrance, though certainly it can be argued that Pulp is a bit more unique than Palermo. Still, Palermo may be the most agreeable Byredo fragrance I've tried to date, and while it isn't especially daring, there's merit in having such a unisex easy-to-wear fresh citrus scent in the catalog. It lacks the vetiver- and violet-laden intrigue of Bal d'Afrique and the guts of Pulp, but it serves its purpose.

Still, it's a tough sell as it doesn't project much on my skin and, of course, citrus-dominant fragrances come much cheaper, particularly from a house like Atelier Cologne.

8 out of 10
08th June, 2017

Accord Oud by Byredo

Byredo Accord Oud is another interesting interpretation of oud, much like Oud Immortel, in which oud is a key aspect but certainly not the whole story.

Accord Oud reminds me of Tom Ford Oud Wood in terms of the final result, though admittedly the ingredients are a bit different. Oud Wood relies upon, as its name suggests, oud and wood, but Accord Oud thrives more from the leather/oud pairing in concert with some interesting additions, like blackberry for a tangy sweetness that's tart as well, and the cardamom provides a spicy/tart edge to it as well. So in both respects, Accord Oud has more nuance than Oud Wood, though I'd argue that Oud Wood is a bit easier to wear and more refined overall. Still, I've not seen this comparison made before so I'm curious if it's just me, bu that's at least my initial impression, not having tested them side-by-side.

Performance-wise, Accord Oud is strong, certainly more fitted for cold weather wearing and for men, though it could probably be a little flexible with respect to both climate and gender based on traditional norms for each. As with most fragrances, it is what the wearer gets out of it, and I get Oud Wood, mostly, say, 80%.

It seems to be available on the secondary market so pricing is likely a lot better than Oud Wood, anyway, so I'd recommend fans of that to check this out, as it might suit you better.

7 out of 10
07th June, 2017

Baudelaire by Byredo

Byredo Baudelaire is a spicy masculine scent that's vaguely in the same spirit of fougeres while lacking their freshness.

A mix of juniper, pepper, leather, patchouli, incense, and even a little amber, Baudelaire has spicy elements and lean towards more of a cold weather men's signature scent. The juniper and pepper stand out as sharper notes, even in the dry down, but most of the other accords are in harmony, the amber serving as a smoother counterweight to the incense, patchouli, and leather, a trio that can otherwise be daunting..

I like a little bit, but not nearly as much as some of the more classic spicy men's options from the 80s like YSL Jazz and Chanel Antaeus.

Still, it doesn't move the needle for me very much. I can easily see how men and women alike could love this one, but it's just "off" on my skin, not quite where I feel it should be. Perhaps that's simply my wanting it to be more like other fragrances in the same subgenre, but at least for me, Baudelaire is one I was happy to try but am happier not to buy.

6 out of 10
06th June, 2017

Pulp by Byredo

Byredo Pulp is one of the most hyped fragrances of the line, perhaps it's most-discussed warm weather fragrance, along with, of course, Bal d'Afrique.

Said to represent the smell of fresh fruit, my own sampling of it today lends credence to its relatively strong reputation. It does smell like fresh fruit, a nod to both the sweetness and tartness that come from the real thing.

That its scent is comprised of several fruits--bergamot, blackcurrant, apple, fig--makes Pulp difficult to pin down, or to limit to being a hyper-sweet, -sour, or -citrus fragrance. Because it is an amalgam of several varying fruits, it's effective at representing many more fruits, perhaps all fruits.

Certainly as pointed out by at least one critic I've heard, Pulp's energy diminishes predictably into its dry down, where it becomes a bit less interesting and less bright, at least to me. Still, the blend is excellent in the dry down, when it takes on woody and musky undertones.

Its performance is decent for a warm weather EDP, probably above average in projection and longevity, but Byredo pricing is right in the area of "if it doesn't add something unique to your collection, don't bother" at the standard pricing of $150 for 50ml, $230 for 100ml. However, it can be argued more easily for Pulp than for most fruity niche offerings that this does achieve something more unique, more special, and at the same time relatively unisex and easy to wear, though it shines most in the summer. One I'll need to explore further but may eventually add to my collection, maybe next summer.

8 out of 10
05th June, 2017

Tubereuse 40 by Le Labo

Le Labo Tubereuse 40 New York is another nice city exclusive that's good but not great, especially when considering its exorbitant cost relative to the standard line of Le Labo fragrances, even.

By name, it would seem that it'd be primarily a white floral, but I get as much citrus as I do floral out of it. Looking at the note breakdown to corroborate, bergamot, tangerine, and orange flower create the citrusy-yet-floral vibe in concert with the tuberose itself, and the musk seems to be an addition as it often is in these Le Labo freshies.

It leans slightly feminine but not prohibitively so for a man to wear and enjoy, especially in warm weather. Performance is average.

A nice one but something I wouldn't give a second thought to for the price.

7 out of 10
02nd June, 2017

Baie Rose 26 by Le Labo

Le Labo Baie Rose 26, the Chicago city exclusive, is a fresh- and natural-smelling rose fragrance, which, like Rose 31, has some darker earthy and woody elements that complement the abundance of the eponymous signature note.

Pepper, clove, and cedar stand out somewhat for me, and I enjoy this as it dries down from a sharper opening to a smoother base. It's not so spicy from the clove or pepper, or so soft from the cedar, but somewhere in between. Well-balanced and comfortable, overall, but still ever so slightly challenging.

Performance isn't all that special but versatility is high, as, while this would do best in warm weather, it could be a year-round option for men and women alike.

Unfortunately, as with many city exclusives, the high pricing puts it out of reach as a "like" but not a "love." $295 for 50ml is steep! I imagine most would rather reach for Rose 31, especially at its more competitive standard Le Labo price, but I'm sure some would find Baie Rose 26 a nice departure. Surely worth trying, if nothing else.

7 out of 10
01st June, 2017