Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Sakral

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Total Reviews: 27

Anima Dulcis by Arquiste

I've been interested in the concept of "hot" perfumes, in the sense of a chili pepper is hot. A sensation of something warmer than warm.
I'm frankly not quite sure heat is something that can be portrayed with aromachemicals, but this perfume is probably the closest i've experienced. So i bought it without much further thinking just because i enjoyed that aspect of it.

After placing it on my perfume shelf i realized though; i'm not a big fan of sweet perfumes (and this one is super sweet). And so there it has been standing, pretty much unused for a year or two.

But recently i had one of those days that i wanted to smell something new, so i picked it up and took a spray on my chest before leaving for work.

And while i'm not quite sure this is "me", it is a intoxicatingly uplifting fragrance. Extremely warm, energizing and comforting at the same time. The olfactory equivalent of being surrounded by candlelight.

As many before me, i get more fruit than cocoa. A ripe plummy red note dominates over vanilla and soft spices, finished with a dusting of sharp cocoa powder.

Longevity is excellent. Give it a chance. Or two, i'm glad i did.
03rd November, 2016

Rasikh Mukhalat by Syed Junaid Alam

It's intriguing but also headache-inducingly sweet. Go eeeasy on the application. I'd recommend extending your arm fully out an open window and spray away from your body, then run out the front door, two laps around the house before stopping outside the window you sprayed out of to catch some of the drifting fragrance.

Ok maybe not that strong. But... it is intense.
14th March, 2016

M/Mink by Byredo

Curious about all the fuzz i managed to get a hold of a sample of this and have given it many more tries than any fragrance that i'm not still sure if i like.

Frankly i'm not sure about the ink part either. It has an incredibly sharp overdose, that's for sure. But it's hard to describe. I'd say metallic (but then again, metal doesn't smell anything).

So... "spicy blood taste"? Somewhere along those lines. But there is more to it, there's a sweet animalic note reminiscent of beeswax or labdanum.

I think it becomes fairly enjoyable just after 15 minutes (the opening is honestly to brutal). But never well mannered. It keeps messing with my head for quite some time.

When you've sampled a lot of perfumes, unforgettability becomes a quality on it's own. And this certainly is unforgettable, while still being mostly enjoyable. So it'll be thumbs up.
01st March, 2016
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Lôjazz by Santi Burgas

Agreeing to the former reviews, this was also my favourite in the Loant collection. Frankly the only one that stood out as a great fragrance out of all of them.

A very intense and multifaceted floral, fresh and a bit dirty (jasmine is such a weird beast, to much and it turns nasty, here it's perfectly pushed to the limit where it's fully enjoyable but you glimpse the "dark" side as well), sweet and textured, all balanced beautifully. Intoxicating in its complexity, but still lighthearted and fun.
25th February, 2016

Lôence by Santi Burgas

Frankly, i don't get anything but patchouli and a very loud annoyingly monotone synthetic wood note. Don't know what it is, but even if it's an intentional overdose, it's an overdosed overdose.

Unwearable for me.
25th February, 2016

Sel Marin by Heeley

It's watery. And a bit salty. I'll give them that.

But for me it doesn't smell like the ocean at all. Neither does it smell very good.

More like a cucumber/bergamot/seaweed smoothie bought in a Los Angeles rawfood yoga café.

(Super healthy i'm sure, but the good part of perfumes is that it doesn't have any calories so i think i'll go with something heavier)
23rd February, 2016

Coccobello by Heeley

A simple, very modest but enjoyable fragrance that does indeed bring sunny beaches to mind.

If you're looking for a coconut fragrance that doesn't SCREAM coconut, i think this could be it.

Personally i would have liked a bit more complexity, just a little something dry/bitter to balance the sweet basenotes.
23rd February, 2016

Fig-Tea by Nicolaï

I really like the thin watery layer in which this fragrance operates. If it were heavier it would be annoyingly sweet but now it's nice, kind of shy.

I certainly get a nice ripe fig. But then mostly a lot of hedoine against a background of sticky amber.

It's... cute? Not a lot of personality though.
23rd February, 2016

Norne by Slumberhouse

Yup. Forest, no doubt about that. Dark, damp forest. Incredibly intense rendition while still being enjoyable. Ish.

I don't know. I wore it once. I found it to be to much.

But i still appreciate the craft behind it, and spray a bit on a piece of wood every now and then as a room scent.

It smells good. But on a bit of a distance. Just as the forest smells good walking among the pinetrees, but might be a bit overwhelming when you're impaled by a tree.
23rd February, 2016

Pulp by Byredo

People seem to have very different experiences of pulp. It's my personal favourite from Byredo. It is intensely fruity yes, but there's more to it. Smooth cardamom and a nice dry chocolatey/woody/cherry(?) base that keeps the ripe and slightly sour fruits balanced.

Sillage is fairly poor though, but it's also easy to overspray at which point it becomes annoying. But still a thumbs up from me.
23rd February, 2016

Cuir Venenum 03 by Parfumerie Generale

Reviews are all over the place! Personally i fell instantly for that tangy herbal candy-sweetness. Not sure what it is frankly, juxtaposition of honey, myrrh and orange flower? Pretty sure there's a hefty dose of sweet musks or ionones in there.

As for leather... Sure i can picture some fanta soaked leather, but certainly not the first thing that comes to mind.

To be honest i'd probably say shampoo would be a more suitable medium for this, but it smells fucking delicious. A fun fragrance that simply makes me happy.
23rd February, 2016

Incense Rosé by Tauer

I like Tauers work in general, and i'm all about incense in perfumery. So this should be a given winner, and maybe that's why i am so disappointed.

There's some incense in there, but for me i mostly get a sour patchouli.

It feels so... shallow, the notes all squeeze together in a single layer. Like a choir of people all making the same sound for a couple of hours. There are different voices, but lacking dynamics and depth.

30th November, 2015

Rose of No Man's Land by Byredo

I'll have to start with the name. Byredo do usually have great names for their perfumes, evocative and simple, crowdpleasing but still with a exclusive smartness to it.
"Rose of no man's land" is a horrible name. Not sure what happened there.

But given the name, i guess i shouldn't be suprised over the heavy lean on rose in this one. Phew! But not overpowering, i would guess it's a rose accord created with a lot of syntethics because it feels very sculptural. Like someone pressing a lot of roses into a big block and then carving away the parts that are cloying. Leaving a big but surprisingly modern rendition of rose.

Not more than that though... The mental color of this is for me a very deep dark red, but i think the darkness is just from the rose as well. Sadly i don't get raspberry at all which could have been a refreshing contrast with its spicy tang.
30th November, 2015
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L'Air du Desert Marocain by Tauer

I ordered this as a blind buy some time ago, based on the nearly universal praise it gets (Luca Turin wore it for his wedding ffs).

I agree it's a very beautiful composition. Rich and balanced, but not at all aggressive. It has that oldschool "full bodied" quality, with dry notes of vetiver/patchouli, soft and rich citruses and smokey woods and resins. All tied together by sweet musk/vanilla. (I must emphasize that last part, there is a LOT of vanilla, for me it works but if you don't like vanilla you may want to keep away).

But i am failing to see why everyone is THAT excited about this? It's likeable, well mannered and very nice. But to my nose it's not unforgettable or irresistable. A great perfume should have one of those two qualities, a masterpiece should have both.
30th November, 2015

Black Amber by Agonist

To me the key characteristic of this fragrance is birch tar deep in the background... But birch is not listed so i'm guessing it's just a combination of other dark woods and smokyness that gives me that birch vibe.
Other than that it's a pretty straight forward spicy incense, with a nice "mental color" of graphite grey.

Seemingly nicely blended but left me kind of cold and uninspired.
23rd April, 2015

The Infidels by Agonist

Jesus christ that's a lot of listed notes. I don't get a third of those, but i do appreciate it anyway. A beautiful core of "dark" rose and pepper hovers over a vanillacovered patchwork of smooth woods. Cloves, patchouli, ylang ylang is distinctively present too. And a subtle aquaticness.

I really like the balance between the sweet/floral and dark/woody, it feels mysteriously dusky, but not heavy at all.

Quite enjoyable indeed, my girlfriend is thinking of buying a bottle and start using it and i would not mind smelling this on her at all.
23rd April, 2015

The Unicorn Spell by LesNez

WOW, this is the third of Les Nez perfumes i sample and the second one i absolutely adore. Incredibly energetic frosted violets and sparkling greens. Like the other Nez frags i get some gourmand vibes here too, cotton candy, maybe a bit of celery, and hard lemon candy. Some very mild mannered woods in the bottom.

Exciting and fun, this is the kind of perfume i can't wait to show some friends, i know it will bring a great smile to their face. (Also i need to check if someone else found the initial brightly stinging chemical note to resemble another white substance you could snort up your nose)
14th April, 2015

Let Me Play The Lion by LesNez

To me this is a fantasy fragrance. A futuristic incense, with bright raspy wood, uplifting spice and i also get some kind of candy i can't put my finger on... A bit licouricy, but with a boozy tang.
A densely mixed synthetic cocktail which is much more interesting than the sum of it's parts, i find it completely delicious.

The sillage leaves some to be desired, but on the other hand i kind of like keeping it like a secret on my wrist which can entertain my imagination every now and then.
14th April, 2015

Sahara Noir by Tom Ford

First of all, i'd like to point out that my nickname here means "sacred" in swedish, but the word is specifically used to describe religious spaces, big sparcely stone cathedrals with ancient wooden benches come to mind. If to believe my chosen name, something i'm quite excited about.

Further; in perfume i'm always looking for as dry as possible. Big rich woods, spices and incense. I can't wear anything waxy or aldehydic, strong citruses makes me think of toilet cleaning products.

So with that as background, do i like this perfume?
Yes. Yes i do, it is hands down, that one fragrance that i feel is potentially created for me specifically.
It has a very strong concept, and it stays extremely true to the concept and executes it beautifully with a lot of subtle warm florals and citruses in the background. But unless you like that scorched incense concept, there's not much else here to comfort you.
14th April, 2015

Ormonde Man by Ormonde Jayne

It is refined no doubt, but almost refined to the point that it becomes over-balanced. It feels like Ormondo Jayne is so eager to express almost every statement of modern masculine fragrances - it loses distinction to its voice.

But on the other hand, it DOES express almost every statement of what i associate with modern masculinity in perfumes, and it does every one of those statements better than most. Beautifully balanced and without a trace of dissonance.

Effortless elegance, but a tiny bit boring.
13th April, 2015

Black by Comme des Garçons

Almost categorically black: liqourice, black pepper, black tar, ashes. It's like a child has collected all the black things in the summerhouse. But it works well, the blend is exciting with the liqourice and tar competing for attention, and a hefty dose of dryness from supposedly Iso E Super keeps it fairly transparent and not to heavy.

I have a bottle. Almost never used it, don't know why. While i appreciate it's modern approach i also feel its concept is to shallow.
It's fun to sniff, but i feel it lacks the substance that makes me want to actually use it.
13th April, 2015

Musc Ravageur by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

The first impression gets the expectations up. Rich natural smell of clove, bergamot, and musk backed by some round wood merges into a raw and animalic body. But from there it's kind of going nowhere exciting to me. The drydown is a disappointment, i think it dulls down to a pretty average round and slightly sour musk/vanilla.

Objectively i can appreciate the craft behind it, all components feels vibrant and rich. But subjectively i'm left very untouched by the sum of said components.
13th April, 2015

Oud Wood by Tom Ford

I love this one. The intense woods bind together with the cardamom, tonka and vanilla(and benzoin?) to a round and persistant chord from the beginning all the way through the drydown.
The oud, peppers and the fleeing top notes(i can't really put my finger on what it is) provide some energy and variation, but it's the linear quality of that main chord that keeps me returning to this reliable fragrance.
13th April, 2015

Earthtones #3 - North Woods by Neil Morris Fragrances

I had the chance to sample this the other day and found it absolutely delicious. It kicks off with a volyminous cloud of freshly cut pine, more green than brown and absolutely dripping with sticky resin. Soon a body of rounder earthy woods emerge, but it's a pretty young woodyness, not old and dark. Balanced beautifully with the heather and fig.
It is a complete delight. Rich and big, well balanced all over the spectrum. Intensely foresty.

The only problem was my greed for more, i was disappointed by the drydown and longevity. Not because they were bad, they were both pretty good... I just didn't want that first hour to fade. But that is what perfumes do i guess.

Highly recommended if you like coniferous smells.
13th April, 2015

La Nuit de L'Homme by Yves Saint Laurent

I always love cardamom, and i do like the balance of spice and florals in this... Except the lavender which i think is to strong, and adds to a "sporty freshness" here that screams 90's college locker room, not grownup nightlife. At least to me.

I should probably give it another shot sometime given the rave reviews, but even if it's a better fragrance than i give it credit for, it's simply not for me.
02nd April, 2015

Indochine 25 by Parfumerie Generale

I was immidiately smitten by this fragrance. Round, resinous, sweet, spicy and slightly smokey. But all of it merged into a dense and very smooth unity. Seriously; very smooth, and very dense.

Reading the other comments i'm surprised noone else mentions the powdery waxiness to it. Aldehydes? Or maybe it's just from the bensoin/honey. However, this is the one thing that takes it down a bit for me, but that's coming from a person that's very sensitive to waxiness.

Still, i find it strangely addictive. The subtle spices, the comforting sweetness. And the "tight" composition.

Sillage is pleasant, longevity good!
02nd April, 2015

parfums*PARFUMS Series 3 Incense: Jaisalmer by Comme des Garçons

This was once my signature scent, and even if i rotate between different fragrances these days i still return to this every now and then. And it's still one of my absolute favourites ten years after buying my first bottle.

To me it kicks off with an almost overpowering black pepper, quickly joined by other spices. Cardamom, cinnamon, ginger. Dry as gunpowder and floating around a core of different woods. Deep and dry, some fresh and resinous, others dry as charcoal.

I love the lack of citrus and "crowdpleasing" freshness.

To bad the longevity is poor. Not horrible, but disappointing nonetheless.
02nd April, 2015