Perfume Reviews

Reviews by simpelmans

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Total Reviews: 13

Noir de Noir by Tom Ford

I would 100% go for the Noir de Noir.
It is a white vanille chocolate rose, with an amazing drydown.
I like it, I love it, i can not live without it anymore.
It is my signature scent. I live in West-Europe, so a cold climate.
Noir de Noir does not bore me, does not annoy me, and I love every stage of it: the fresh deep rose in the start, the fruity spices, the patchouli chocolate and the superb vanilla.
I thought I liked Tobacco Vanilla, but it is a little cloying in the end, after smelling nothing but creamy vanilla with pipe tobacco, so I did not buy that, I found Tobacco Vanilla too linear, almost too simple.
But Noir de Noir has the same sweet vanilla, but a man can defenitely wear it, it is not the cloying chemical vanilla you find in designer/celebrity scents for women.
So, I like a scent that moves me, nothing does move me like Noir de Noir.
projection of NdN could of course be a little bit stronger, but... Noir de Noir is for YOU and the girl who kisses your neck...
10th January, 2017

Grey Flannel by Geoffrey Beene

Grey Flannel: a sweet green/Polo on steroids.
According to Turin in his book: The Guide: Perfume from A-Z: it is a sweet green, and it gets 5 stars.
It also won a prize in the seventies for best perfume.
When it arrived at my home, ordered at FragranceX, it was less than 20 $, it was a huge bottle, and it did not have a sprayer.
So I tried to put some in a little stravel sprayer, and I spilled it on my sink.
At first, I was shocked by the force of the scent, so bitter, so concentree.
I thought I made a mistake.
I thought of Agua Brava, which I think has some reblembance with Grey Flannel.
I tried to sweeten it up by mixing it (litteraly) with Terre d'Hermes, but that made things worse, because Terre d"Hermes let it project as hell, due to the abundance of Iso Super E.
But then I learned: just spray a little on your chest, and let the body heat do its work.
It gets better, and better.
The fresh mowed grass, the damp woods, and the very very natural green sweetness.
Now this is my number one scent.
But: my secret: I put twoo sprays on my chest, and one spray of Sweet Redemption by Kilian on my neck.
So I have this sweet green base, and on top of that, this neroli blossom/vanilla projection.
All natural, never cloying, and all day it gives me joy.
Because, I live in cold, depressing Europe, were work is your life most of the time, and this lifts me up.
Karl Lagerfeld also admitted that he always is mixing scents, experimenting to get some new results by mixing/layering.
Yes I know: layering is using deo, soap, edt , shampoo of the same brand/type of perfume.
And mixing is, of course mixing, like making a cocktail.
I tried to mix Grey Flanel with Geranium Pour Monsieur, it works, but the mint is a dissonant there.
Grey Flanel: so cheap, so good, so green, so fresh, so weird for novices, so strong and bitter at first.
But on skin it works. Just wait 20 minutes and enjoy.
sillage: 8.5
projection: 7.5
longivity: 10 hours
for me: winter scent
overall rating: 9
21st March, 2016

Sweet Redemption by By Kilian

HIGH END ORANGE BLOSSOM AND VANILLA
*
It opens with a Honeyed Orange Blossom full of Opoponax and Vanilla (which probably adds to the rootbeer). There is a menthol/ medicinal quality here, sitting behind the Orange Blossom, that reminds me of fresh, crushed orange leaves. Could it be from the Myrhh? Orange leaf isn't listed but I swear it's in there. The opening also has a hint of incense in the background. It's a very sweet opening. Not candy sweet but that sweet scent you know will taste bitter, like vanilla extract. It's a really interesting dynamic.

As it warms up, the Orange Blossoms comes forward more and the rootbeer edge lessens. It's also a little more dessert sweet than vanilla extract-like bitter sweet (for lack of a better way to explain it). It's a lovely change and very different from the opening. There is also more... Orange... pulp? I don't know what it is, but it has a nice Zing and I am still getting a hint of that menthol/ medicinal quality that I think of as fresh crushed orange leaves. The Zing and the medicinal really balance out the dessert sweetness. It's truly lovely.

The drydown is still mostly Incense with Vanilla and a hint of Myrhh. The Vanilla isn't very sweet and it is a nice break from the sweetness of the other two stages. It's warm and comforting. I'm not sure which is my favorite stage but the drydown is very beautiful.

It's actually that menthol / medicinal edge, that I perceive as crushed orange leaves, that really makes this a work of art. The composition walks the line between overly sweet and overly medicinal like a tightrope walker who's perfected their skills and can run across the tightrope, blindfolded with no net. It's mastery of an art and beautiful to experience.

How this composition wears is greatly impacted by the temperature and humidity (at least for me it is). More so than any other scent I've worn (except maybe Seville). The longevity is amazing and lasts forever. The Sillage is NUCLEAR and you will kill people if you are not careful and use a light hand.
28th September, 2015
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212 VIP Men by Carolina Herrera

GREAT CLUBBING SCENT

Released in 2011, many think that it came in response to the success of 212 Men (now renamed to 212 Men NYC). Obviously, one thing is linked to another, but it was created to make pair with the female version, released 1 year earlier. The concept, as well as the slogans, remained the same: "Are you on the list?" and "This is a private party.", which reflect the style and attitude of its users.

The official composition brings notes of Caviar lime (I will explain ahead), frozen Mint and black pepper, in the output. In the heart of the fragrance, a cocktail of chilled vodka, ginger and Apple slices. In the base, notes of King wood, salty amber and tonka beans.

But what is that Caviar lime? Is the Citrus Australasica - a plant with citrus fruits, peculiar format and fully differentiated pulp, which looks like caviar, but does have citrus flavor. It can have various colors and is also known as Finger lime.
You need to be careful with what you read out there because, according to some websites, the fragrance would have notes of lime and caviar, separately. There is also, those who state the presence of passion fruit (top) and leather (base). I couldn't find anything about it on the official page of the brand.

On the skin, the output is fruity and slightly sweet. Then, quickly, cold accords arise, balancing the sweet aspect. There is a mixture of citrus and ginger, but I didn't feel the apple note.

All the times in which I returned with my nose to the place where I sprayed, I felt the Mint well evident, along with the alcohol content. The amber added creaminess, even more by the fact of being allied with the aroma of tonka beans. But there is, indeed, a salty aspect in it. Finally, the King wood gave a drier aroma to the fragrance.

On my skin, it projects well for about 2 hours, then stays close. But the lasting is good, of approximately 8 hours. And the bottle followed the same style of 212 Men, wrapped by a metallic silver finish, bringing the magnetic cap. The 200ml versions come in a glass bottle.
28th September, 2015

Volupté by Oscar de la Renta

Review for vintage EDT:

This bottle is truly striking in person, very art nouveau, with clean lines and a nice heft. The cap on the 1.7 oz splash bottle is a touch strange, as the angled form needs to be twisted until it sits perfectly flush. However, the seal seems to be quite good once it is fit properly, and I'm not seeing any leaks, despite there being no threads on the stopper.

My skin tends to eat florals, and my initial application left me wondering where the famed Volupte power was. A second application, trailing from wrist to elbow brought enlightenment.

To my nose, Volupte opens with bitter narcissus very much forward, supported by osmanthus. Where osmanthus frequently has a suede like scent to me, and occasionally smells of plums, this osmanthus reminds me strongly of apricot fruit leather- dense, more tart than sweet, distinctly tangy. The sillage, for some reason, reminds me of buttered toast...served first thing in the morning, with tea, and apricot preserves (osmanthus) eaten sitting in the sunshine. I'm not sure where this accord is coming from, but it is quite distinct, and surprisingly joyous.

The heart opens slowly, after more than an hour. Soft, sweet mimosa, faint LoV, the slightest touch of carnation appear. Then jasmine and cyclamen move forward, supported by the fantasy peony note. Throughout this phase the fantasy freesia note is present, but not plasticky, adding a sense of "gloss" to the scent. Eventually a touch of tuberose shows up, demure, almost shy, very unusual for this note.

In the dry down heliotrope and melon step forward, supported by sandalwood and a touch of incense. Start to finish, I would classify Volupte as cheerful, surprisingly fresh, and thoroughly unexpected. The very sweet notes are carried by the almost herbal, very green, bitter narcissus base. The fruits are not the sugared versions that have been prevalent for the past decade, but rather tart. The floral elements are blended with a beautifully light touch, and the sweetness they bring is glorious, and never overwhelming.

I had expected Volupte to be heavy, a cool weather scent. Instead this is one of the most light filled scents that I have encountered, serenely joyous, energizing, the sort of scent that reminds you to stop and experience the world around you. Volupte, to my mind, is not so much about voluptuousness in the sense of sex appeal, but rather the voluptuousness of fully experiencing the world around us, dwelling in the present, and mindfully engaging with the multitude of stimulation all around. For me, Volupte is a meditation retreat in a bottle, perfect for those times when you can't disappear for a week, but you really need a break.

This is a go to scent! On my skin it needs warm weather to really be apparent in all it's glory, but it is wearable year round, and I think it will be a wonderful anodyne to winter blahs. Elegantly casual, effortlessly chic. I feel like this is the perfect scent to wear when one isn't sure what note to hit, but needs to impress. Tremendously versatile, and a joy to experience.
13th September, 2015

Straight to Heaven by By Kilian

Well, here's my review of Straight to Heaven by By Kilian. I had a sample from a sample service provided by skins in the Netherlands, because it's way too expensive to buy a bottle.
First impression: almost exactly the same as French Lover by Frederique Malle. Only difference: this has more cedar, and minus that strange stale flowerpot water/dead plants smell from French Lover.
I did not notice a rum or a patchouli note. If I want a rum note, I go straight to Bentley Intense (which is much much cheaper and a delightful scent).
So, I noticed cedar and ambroxan, and maybe some spices.

projection: 6
longevity: 8
sillage: 7
price: too expensive, although good quality ingredients of course
overall: 7/8
but of course: "That's, uuh, like your opinion, man"
15th August, 2015

Citrus & Wood by Yardley

Citrus & Wood by Yardley: I bought this for Euro 24,95 at parfumclick. It is cheap, but good quality. Starts with very nice fresh citrus, not acid, and very soon wood, something spicy, emerges.
Both the wood and citrus combine very nicely, it`s fresh, but not aquatic (which I almost hate nowadays).
I mainly bought this to mix with Terre d' Hermes, and Silver Mountain Water.
Terre d' Hermes I made into my signature scent, (just love the smell of rotten oranges and grapefruits blistering in a vinyl sack on a sunbaked rock drenched in Iso E Super, the Mono-sodium glutamate of the perfume world.), so I wanted something to spice it up, and something to spray freely, and not bothering about the cost.
So I stumbled upon Citrus & Wood.
The same applies for Silver Mountain Water, another delicious fresh scent, but too expensive for me to apply in abundance, so I mix/layer it with this Yardley juice.
But on its own, I like it too.
I like it a lot, the only thing is, it turns after 20 minutes or less in a woody scent, which is rather close to the skin, but smells very natural.
12th July, 2015

Terre d'Hermès by Hermès

Terre d' Hermes I made into my signature scent.
I learned to love its smell of rotten oranges and grapefruits smoldering in a vinyl sack on a sunbaked, blistering rock while the wood is on fire, drenched in Iso E Super, the Mono-sodium glutamate of the perfume world.
LOL
12th July, 2015

Eau de Santal by Floris

Eau de Santal is the shy, more educated and sophisticated older brother of Gucci Envy.
While Eau de Santal is reading a book in his Oxford study room (Lady Chatterley's Lover, for science), his little more extravert brother is taking a ride in the woods with his dog, after his work as a gardener.
It almost reminds me as the less velvety, less sweet version of Dolce & Gabbana Pour Homme.
It is very rounded, smooth, not much sillage, nice drydown.
I get smooth lavender, spices, vanilla, all very smooth, not strong, but delicate and natural.
It can be used in every situation, it is so rounded, fresh, sophisticated.
I wish it was stronger. It can be a signature scent, it's made of good ingredients by the old house of Floris.
I bought it straight from their internet shop, came in a nice wrapped, ribboned package, and a nice sample.
Though, for 99 Euro, I will not buy again, it's just too quiet, nice for me.
I like it more loud.
projection: 7 (out of 10)
longevity: 8/9
overall: 8
01st July, 2015

M Génération by Mauboussin

This is hamster cage in a bottle.
But a GOLDEN hamster cage, and a superb beautiful bottle.
The bottle looks like a copper menhir, a copper rounded stone, patina and looks like it's old, but people want to touch it all the time, like the titties on statues LOL.
It is very good quality, it has a longevity of 36 hours on my skin.
Yes, a lot of cedar, a lot. That's why I cannot give it a full blown 10, but, the incense like drydown is so nice, I keep smelling my arm on and on.

I bought this for only 37 Euro on the internet, 100 ml., I was getting the idea from a review on You Tube by , mind you, a teenager, very unprofessional, but enthusiastic reviewer from NJ. His reactions brought me to think this was something very special.
I have V & R Spicebomb, but I cannot wear it, I find it too heavy, too Christmas pie for me (V & R Antidote is heaven).
So:
longevity : 10
sillage: 7/8
overall smell: 9
30th June, 2015

L'Homme Idéal by Guerlain

I tried this with a sample.
First impression: sweet.
It is a sweet citrus, with some pepper? and than the musk.
Women like it, even love it.
It is surely a pleasant smell, only could it be a little boring for scent connoisseurs.
It smells a lot like a longer lasting Man by Calvin Klein, and also somewhat like The One (for women).
Longevity : 7
sillage : 7/8
overall: 8
The Cologne or Eau Fresh has a super nice and fresh start, then quickly becomes L'Homme Idéal in the dry down.
What stays is a peppery musk note on the skin.
So I gave it thumbs up, because nice scent, lots of sweetness.
29th June, 2015

Lapidus pour Homme by Ted Lapidus

I stumbled upon this cheap, yet quality and powerful spice bomb from the eighties by a comment in a thread called: How do you layer?
There was talk there about layering (well, mixing) Aventus with Tuscan Leather by Tom Ford, which was surprisingly nice. Another mixed Aventus with Ted Lapidus Pour Lui, which, according to him was great.
Now: to get to my point: I discovered in this way this gem from the 80's, and noticed it had some notes shared with Aventus.

Aventus fragrance notes:

Top Notes
Blackcurrant, Italian bergamot, French apples, Pineapple
Heart Notes
Rose, Dry birch, Moroccan jasmine, Patchouli
Base notes
Musk, Oak moss, Ambergris, Vanilla



Lapidus pour Homme fragrance notes:

Top Notes
Lemon, Pineapple
Heart Notes
Honey, Rose, Jasmine
Base notes
Sandalwood, Patchouli
You see: Pineapple, Rose, Jasmine and Patchouli they have in common.
So I wanted to mix/layer them, and it works out great.
Just apply Lapidus Pour Homme an hour or more before.
Probably on your hair and chest.
Then, after one hour, apply the Aventus on your arms/wrists/neck maybe.
The work together well.
I also tried using this combo:
-Terre d" Hermes kind as a base note on my chest
-TL Pour Homme as a middle note on my hair
-Aventus as a top note on my arms/wrists/neck
Yes, maybe I am crazy, but sometimes one has to try new things, and maybe, maybe by chance one stumbles onto something.
About TL Pour Homme itself:
Very strong flowery presence at first.
Later, after more than an hour, it is more wearable, and smells nice on you.
27th June, 2015

Antidote by Viktor & Rolf

Well I thought I'd give it a try in giving my thoughts about this rich powerful perfume called antidote . I bought it in the first place because I was looking for a replacement for my all time favorite Envy by Gucci.(oh yeah)
There is a topic on basenotes called: what is a good replacement for envy by Gucci?
some people there mentioned Santal by Floris, so I'll gave it a try and bought the 120 dollar bottle right from the store in London, which was a great disappointment although nicely packaged in a gentleman's way. The problem with this perfume is its lack of projection, although the dry-down is exactly what I'm looking for. exactly like the divine Envy by Gucci.
It's the dry-down, stupid! .
So this was it, bye bye 120 dollar . Next.


The next one I tried was Vetyver by l'Occitane, this only set me down 40 bucks.
This scent is very gloomy, earthy, almost has a feeling to it like strolling in a French wood only dressed in a towel...
First it's smashing in your face, like a drill instructor invading your personal space, but i like it, it's very nice and it has a natural vibe. Right fresh, and down to earth. Then some guy recommend me to buy L'Homme by YSL, but it turned out invisible on my skin although it is a nice scent .

Then, finally came across this: Antidote by Viktor and Rolf.
I found my holy grail at last.
I keep sniffing my wrist like a hound dog keeps sniffing a dead rabbit wrapped in bacon. This perfume, it keeps on intriguing me.
Its fresh, it is sweet it is sexy ,it is full of mystery, it is never boring, like for example Bottled by Boss, and it comforts me through my days.
The ride on this one is fantastic just like Envy by Gucci had .
I think I may give my baby to you now, take care of her, and take my advice and get a bottle while you can, because soon there will no more juice of the gods,it will be discontinued...
04th April, 2015 (last edited: 11th November, 2017)
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