Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Bavard

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Total Reviews: 430

Paris-Deauville by Chanel

This is quite a bit better than Paris-Biarritz, which I gave a neutral, which was arguably generous. This is an interesting new feminine fragrance from Chanel. I could imagine buying this as a gift for the woman I'm dating.

On paper, a jasmine-rose-patchouli fragrance from Chanel is irresistible, and in practice it largely delivers.

I have no problem with the smell up close. The 4160 Tuesdays line does a lot with floral patchoulis, and this reminds me somewhat of those.
21st November, 2018

Paris-Biarritz by Chanel

This smells like Chanel is going into the territory of Guerlain's Aqua Allegoria line, which is disappointing. This does smell better than most of that line, but it's in the mix.

For the first few seconds, it smells like a promising Eau de Cologne. Within 10 minutes, though, white musk has taken over, and it smells generically mass market and forgettable.
21st November, 2018

Bigarade Concentrée by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

This is a borderline thumbs up. It can be very good in moments, such as the opening, or smelling it up close during the mid. Something about the way it develops, though, disappoints me. I'm conflicted because the good moments are so very good, but I'm giving it a neutral.

At its best, it's a beautiful take on a Cartier Declaration type fragrance. At its worst, it's flat and dull, and doesn't deliver on the promise of the opening.

10th November, 2018
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Ambre Sultan by Serge Lutens

An impressive, if sweet, amber fragrance and one of my preferred Serge Lutens fragrances. It lasts a long time and smells nice, close and at a distance. It's a reference amber fragrance for me. It doesn't hit the very highest of heights for me, though, because it's a little over-simplistic at times during the wearing, when it smells a little too one-dimensionally sweet.
30th October, 2018

Bulgari Man Wood Essence by Bulgari

This isn't too bad. It has a cedar note that smells like it's from 2000 to 2010. Synthetic woods can be annoying, but it smells like they did the best they could with it.
29th October, 2018

31 rue Cambon Eau de Parfum by Chanel

The opening of the reformulated 31 Rue Cambon, the edp, is not quite the magical perfection of the discontinued edt. In some respects, though, as with a lot of the reformulated edp's, it feels like they've tried to add an extra dimension to the opening.

Several of the edp reformulations seem to be similar to the edt's after about 10 minutes, after the new openings have burned off.

It would be nice to have both version of 31 Rue Cambon available. I can imagine people preferring one or the other, or wanting to have both. I like both quite a bit.

I'll give it more testing, and update as necessary, but I think the reformulation of 31 Rue Cambon went better than the reformulation of 1932. It's truer to its original and seems more likely to be preferred to its original.

After 15 minutes of development, I don't know if I could tell the difference between 31 Rue Cambon edt and 31 Rue Cambon edp. Smelling them side by side, I do like the edt slightly more, but I fully endorse the new edp as a nice version of the fragrance.
22nd October, 2018

31 rue Cambon Eau de Toilette by Chanel

This one is great, especially the opening and early stages, for my tastes. I think the accord I like is bergamot with slightly powdery florals, and it smells wonderfully, distinctly Chanel-esque. I get a similar blast of goodness from the opening of Chanel 1932 edt.

As this develops, it feels more feminine than unisex, to me, in a way that makes it something I don't feel comfortable wearing out and about, but I love sampling it once in a while for the beautiful opening.
22nd October, 2018

Cuir de Russie Eau de Parfum by Chanel

I find the new edp version of Chanel Cuir de Russie similar to the recently discontinued edt version. The changes are minor, if even noticeable, and to the extent it's different, it seems like a nice update.

It smells like newer leather. The edt was more of a soft, broken-in red leather. This has slightly more sheen of a new leather, also red.

I've sampled the current parfum, and it has even more sheen. This edp is in perfect continuity between the old edt and the parfum.
22nd October, 2018

Cuir de Russie Eau de Toilette by Chanel

I've had a sample of Chanel Cuir de Russie that I think was from the 70s or 80s, and it was one of my favorite fragrances ever. Today I'm wearing the Les Exclusifs version of the edt, and it's also nice.

It opens with a blast that immediately brings the smell of a fresh baby to mind. As that association fades, it smells like a feminine leather, a soft red leather, true to its name.

The older version smelled a lot like civet. The newer version is all soft leather.
21st October, 2018

Bois des Îles Eau de Parfum by Chanel

The opening of Bois des Iles edp is surprisingly different than the discontinued edt. After about 10 minutes, it becomes more like the edt.

I'm detecting a pattern with the edp's. There are extra flourishes in the openings that can be disconcerting; they start to more closely match the discontinued edt's within 20 minutes; and they fade away to nothingness more quickly, whereas the edt's had nice, longer lasting bases with a common fixative that I liked, and that held onto some of the heart notes.

It was an odd decision to discontinue the edt's. The mainstream line has edt and edp concentrations coexisting. Why botch a good thing with the exclusive line? This edp is nice, but it's different, and I would imagine fans of the fragrance wanting to have both.

One of the extra flourishes in the opening of the edp is something like a tea note. Also, the wood smells more natural. I think I like the edp more, although I also really liked the edt, and the edt had a more distinctive, recognizable smell. The edp has become more like Cuir de Russie.
21st October, 2018

Bois des Îles Eau de Toilette by Chanel

This is a beautiful, rich, long-lasting fragrance. It has a fair amount of overlap with Egoiste, but it smells more floral and feminine, and not as dark. My preference is for Egoiste, as nice as this is.

Bois des Iles has the woody aspect, primarily, and a floral aspect in support. The woods are great, but not quite perfect. The richness of the wood smells like it's 90% of what it should be. It smells slightly incomplete.

The supporting floral notes are really well done, and the combination with the wood is nice.
20th October, 2018

1932 Eau de Parfum by Chanel

It would have been nice if Chanel had kept the edt's in addition to the edp's. This smells like a variation on the original edt. It smells close enough to pass as a version of the original 1932, at least after it has about 10 minutes to develop, but it's not quite the same.

To some extent, at least in the opening, it has a similar feel to Bel Respiro edp, with a shampoo or body wash vibe. As this effect burns off, it smells more like the edt, but it's not quite the perfect Chanel accord from 1932 edt (and 31 Rue Cambon edt) of the bergamot and lightly-powdered florals. It gets close, though, to be fair.
20th October, 2018

1932 Eau de Toilette by Chanel

This is a curiously underrated fragrance, to my nose. It's a beautiful, wearable, classic-smelling fragrance. It has a signature Chanel smell that I think comes from the bergamot mixing with the lightly powdered floral concentrates. I find it similar to 31 Rue Cambon.
20th October, 2018
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Jersey Eau de Parfum by Chanel

The edp version of Jersey is very similar to the discontinued edt, but I like it slightly more. It's a touch softer and rounder. The edt was so sharp, I felt like it's the kind of thing that could bring on a headache, and I don't get that feeling with the edp. At the same time, it's not that different, and I don't think it's lost any of the allure.

I still smell it as an iris-dominant (orris root) fragrance. It's sweeter than the edt, but just barely.

It's a great fragrance. With some minor changes, I think Chanel has improved it from the edt version.
20th October, 2018

Jersey Eau de Toilette by Chanel

This smells iris (orris root)-dominant to me, so it's curious not to see it listed as a note. It has a big character, almost too much, perhaps, and might be somewhat of an acquired taste.

I think it could be an addictive smell that would grow on people.

I'm on the fence about how much I like it. It's boldness is both the opportunity to be something great - attractive and memorable - and the risk of being too much - too sharp, crossing over into harshness, being a headache inducer.
19th October, 2018

No. 18 Eau de Parfum by Chanel

The sample of No. 18 edt I have does not smell like Egoiste to me, but this edp version does.

No. 18 edp smells like a big improvement on No. 18 edt. It smells like an Egoiste flanker, although it's fairly light - maybe "Egoiste Summer."

This is another edp, as with Bel Respiro, that doesn't last as long as the edt did. It's not a big difference, but the edt of No. 18 holds on a little longer as a skin scent.
19th October, 2018

No. 18 Eau de Toilette by Chanel

This is a confusing release from Chanel, to my nose. There's just not much to it. It smells like it's dominated by a single aroma chemical, like something a startup perfume company might release.

From the opening, it smells like the lingering base of a rose fragrance, a more synthetic than natural smell.
19th October, 2018

Bel Respiro Eau de Parfum by Chanel

This is a major reformulation from the edt, and not for the better. It might have a more naturally sweet smell to some of the floral notes, but the character of the fragrance has gone from alluring suede to more of a shampoo and shower gel smell.

Bel Respiro edt smelled like a fragrance for adults, a woman or an especially interesting man. The edp smells like a fragrance for girls, completely appropriate for pre-teens, like something from a shampoo and body wash shop in the mall. Among fragrances of that style, I think this one is nice and well done.

As it develops into the mid, it starts to smell more like Bel Respiro edt, while still retaining the youthful bath product vibe.

About being a supposedly stronger concentration as an edp compared to the edt: it does feel strong in the opening, but I get better longevity from the discontinued edt, which sticks around longer as a skin scent.

Overall, I'm giving this a thumbs up, but it's a step backwards compared to the edt, and it begs the question, "Why?"

Why has a company with Chanel's resources changed a fragrance from their exclusive line for the worse, while raising the price?
18th October, 2018 (last edited: 19th October, 2018)

Bel Respiro Eau de Toilette by Chanel

I agree with the reviewers below who mentioned a likeness to Chanel No. 19, and I agree with the suede texture Darvant describes. I also agree that this smells like Chanel's take on a perfume style released by a host of other houses, yet it does smell like a Chanel to me. Beige comes to mind as a relative of Bel Respiro.

I get a touch of powder, as someone mentioned below.

Do I agree that it smells like a green, aquatic floral? There's something to that description in the opening, but in less than half an hour, it's more like something like Beige. It's a beautiful, alluring fragrance. I think it leans feminine, but that could make it all the more interesting on the right man.
18th October, 2018

Miss Dior Originale Eau de Toilette (previously Miss Dior) by Christian Dior

The woman I'm dating wears vintage Miss Dior edt and parfum, and it's wonderful. I'm wearing a couple dabs of the parfum at the moment. From her, it sometimes comes across as something in the vein of Chanel Pour Monsieur, sometimes it will smell a bit like Chanel No. 5, and often it will smell distinctly like Miss Dior with its rich, dark powdery note.
16th October, 2018

No. 5 Eau de Parfum by Chanel

I formerly had access to a bottle of No. 5 edp from around 2012. I picked it for my ex-wife as a present. I liked it more than the edt. It was richer, and had more of the aldehyde smell I associate with Chanel and classic perfumery. That bottle had a subtle nag champa incense / incense stick smell that I liked. It was subtle, and done just right. The perfume smelled great, but it was light. It didn't project for very long.

I now have access to a bottle purchased in 2018, made in Paris, purchased in Montreal. The incense smell is gone, or at least I cannot detect it. The aldehyde smell is still there and still lovely. It's a pretty perfume, but it's so subtle, it's hard to imagine it making such a big splash as it reportedly did for its first few decades of release.

I sprayed it in the air the other day to refresh the room, and it smelled all wrong. I've applied it skin just now, and it's much better. I still feel like it's not quite as good as it was in 2012. In addition to having the incense note, that version had more distinct florals. I felt like I was smelling jasmine. This newer version smells like aldehydes and powder, and it's nice, but I feel like they could give it more of a floral concentrate boost to make it worthy of its historical reputation.

It becomes sweet woods in the base. The listed note of bourbon vanilla sounds right.
16th October, 2018

Lanz by Slumberhouse

Almost a thumbs up for this one. I find it similar to Baque, a sweet oriental, but with an extra bug spray note. It smells so intentional, there's an indie hipness to it.

As it develops, the bug spray smell fades, and it's a nice, warm fragrance. It reminds me a little of the smell of a scented candle, although this smell would make an especially good scented candle.
26th September, 2018

"Vintage" Tabaróme by Creed

This one doesn't suit me. I get an image of a sink of dishwater after the dishes have been washed, right before draining the sink. It's harsh and unwearable for me.
20th September, 2018

Bois de Santal by Creed

A complex, creamy sandalwood with aldehydes. It reminds me of Chanel Bois des Iles and Geo. F. Trumper Sandalwood Cologne, a couple others I like. It leans feminine to my nose.
20th September, 2018

Tribute by Avon

This has a conifer smell to me, which gives me an association with cardboard air fresheners. For the style, this one is pretty well done.
31st August, 2018

Allure Homme by Chanel

This is a nice, sweet, spicy, recognizable woods fragrance. It has moments of smelling borderline too synthetic, but it develops on skin in a nice way that's attractive and comfortable.
25th August, 2018

Coup de Foudre by Delrae

This is another rose fragrance. Not a woody rose like Bois de Paradis, but more of a straight floral with rose and peony. It's reminding me a little of Chloé or Chloé Fleur de Parfum. It's a soapy rose. It's beautiful and lovely, a really well done rose fragrance.
25th August, 2018

Bois de Paradis by Delrae

A beautiful woody rose with fruit, lovely and wearable. It has me thinking of a cleaned-up version of Aramis Calligraphy Rose.

There are lots of beautiful moments during the mid and into the early base before the rose and fruit fade away. The sweet, woody base that's left is less interesting, but not too bad, and it lasts a long time as a skin scent.
24th August, 2018 (last edited: 25th August, 2018)

Amoureuse by Delrae

The listed notes of tuberose and honey sound right to me. This is a strong, exciting fragrance. I don't like it quite as much as the first Delrae I tried, Bois de Paradis. "Cloying" would be overstating it, but this one is challenging in a way that's slightly less comfortable for me to wear. I can definitely imagine a woman pulling this off to good effect. It's loud and memorable, and would make an impression.

This has urinous and animalic aspects to it that make it interesting, and it has a long-lasting base.
24th August, 2018 (last edited: 25th August, 2018)

Polo by Ralph Lauren

Warner version - A strong cigarette tobacco opening. Beautiful and artistic. One of the all-time greats for cigarette smokers.

Cosmair version - Noticeably different in the top, more of a woody leather. Not as complex, but smoother and more wearable.

Luxury Products version - Smells like a failed reformulation, harsh.
21st August, 2018