Reviews by Bavard

Patchouli Intense / Patchouli Homme by Nicolaï

This is good. It gives me a memory of being in France. It works as a masculine fragrance, as labeled. It would make a virile aftershave. Maybe I've encountered someone in France wearing this. This definitely smells like being in France: in someone's house, in a car.

This came in a sample pack with some Etat Libre d'Orange samples, including Je Suis un Homme, which I preferred to this for being more wearable in my style.

This one, Nicolai Patchouli Homme, is strong, and makes a statement. It smells of essential oils, thick and concentrated. I could imagine it being too much for some people to feel comfortable trying to pull off. I could also imagine people being elated to have a bottle of this, and feeling extreme confidence and mood elevation wearing it. Because of my associations with the smell, it feels like a better fit for someone over 40, even a woman. It's so evocative.

I could imagine someone who wears Yatagan liking this. There's something similar in the boldness, bordering on brash, this one even more so, perhaps.

Baladin by Nicolaï

I'm less excited for this Nicolai fragrance than I have been about the last couple I tried, Odalisque and Musc Intense, especially Odalisque.

This is interesting. It's interesting to see leather listed as a note. I'm not thinking of a better way to describe it - upholstery, maybe, some newly-manufactured product - and a box of crayons. I get visions of an elementary school with recent refurbishments.

Musc Intense by Nicolaï

This house makes some nice perfume. I do smell pear. It's blended into a classic-smelling accord, quite delicious and alluring.

After pear, which is almost a boozy, eau de vie (clear brandy)-type pear, sandalwood seems to be the most assertive of the listed notes.

Odalisque by Nicolaï

This stuff is heavenly. It has a beautifully classic, musky floral smell. It reminds me a bit of Armani by Giorgio Armani (1982). It has a wonderful pepper-type note. I agree with the reviews below that mention a resemblance to Patou 1000, and that describe it as a leather fragrance.

Archives 69 by Etat Libre d'Orange

This is another interesting fragrance from Etat Libre d'Orange. To me, it has a definite indie feel that's attractive and captivating.

It has fruits, and not just any fruits but bright, sweet berries, yet weaves them into a masculine-smelling fragrance, presumably from the use of patchouli. (Update: wearing it a second time, it smells like frankincense is part of the masculine anchoring.)

This house reminds me of 4160 Tuesdays as a house that can experiment with something well off the beaten path and make it a wearable success.

Rien Intense Incense by Etat Libre d'Orange

This is a big, bold fragrance. The top is too edgy for me. I could maybe grow into it.

After it develops for an hour or so, the harshness fades, and it's a more wearable, straightforward frankincense fragrance. This phase lasts so long, I'm giving this a thumbs up.

Eloge du Traitre by Etat Libre d'Orange

This is another fragrance from Etat Libre d'Orange, like Je Suis Un Homme, that smells like it could have been released 20 years earlier, which is intended as a big compliment. This smells like a nice, alternative version of Caron Yatagan, although it smells less like rosemary, and more like cocoa butter.

Je Suis Un Homme by Etat Libre d'Orange

This reminds me of original version Bel Ami, in a good way, and I love Bel Ami.

I have a crush on this. I'm surprised I haven't heard more about it, and almost half the reviews are neutral - a good one for "most underrated" threads.

This and original Bel Ami have an oily, warm, leather smell, plus citrus. This smells delicious, flawless, interesting, great for the office, great for a date; great for wearing daily.

Jasmin et Cigarette by Etat Libre d'Orange

An interesting, challenging fragrance. The jasmine note is nice. Some other notes (tobacco, hay) add dissonance, but it still feels wearable, just.

As it develops, it becomes a more and more wearable floral, losing some of the quirkiness that was borderline too much in the opening.

The Afternoon of a Faun by Etat Libre d'Orange

This a competent, independent (indie)-smelling perfume, somewhat reminding me of the 4160 Tuesdays style, which I like.

It smells great up close, like a garden, but also warm.

Attaquer Le Soleil Marquis de Sade by Etat Libre d'Orange

Average-smelling, off-the-shelf, modern, generic aroma chemicals. Slightly reminiscent of cinnamon chewing gum.

Borderline thumbs down. This is almost giving me a headache. Guerlain's Aqua Allegorias are in a similar vein to this, but not this bad.

Sécrétions Magnifiques by Etat Libre d'Orange

This is gross. The smell up close nearly makes me nauseated. It doesn't smell like any bodily fluids I can't think of. I saw the reference in the previous review to a wet dog, and that's a better description than anything I'd come up with.

From a distance, it's not so bad, but up close it smells sickening. The nasty aroma chemical in this seems to wear close the skin. The smell from a distance and deep in the dry down is soapy.

Tom of Finland by Etat Libre d'Orange

A smokey leather. This is a lot of fun. From the notes list, suede (leather), tonka, lemon, and vetiver sound right, and there are others I can't identify. It's a broad, complex scent. This is the first Etat Libre d'Orange fragrance I'm trying, and I'm a fan.

In the base, I don't see it listed, but the smell reminds me of immortelle (everlasting flower).

Safran Troublant by L'Artisan Parfumeur

I like this. The saffron note is soft and round, and the whole thing has a nice, delicious balance, with rose and vanilla. The perfumer, Olivia Giacobetti, did a nice job.

This is kind of thing I would feel confident wearing anywhere or recommending to anyone, a safe, likable, lovely fragrance that smells competently made (not edgy, quirky, or clumsy).

L'Heure Bleue Eau de Parfum by Guerlain

I've been wearing samples of L'Heure Bleue edp from various years, and really enjoying it. I get a strong association with nag champa incense sticks, which is the note giving the fragrance so much heft, power, and longevity. It's a note that starts out almost too strong in a way that makes it wonderfully transporting and memorable, and as it develops, it becomes softer, friendlier, and more irresistible.

Flora Psychedelica by 4160 Tuesdays

A fantastic sharp floral, with a strong smell of fresh pollen-rich flowers. It mostly smells like lilies to me.

L'Homme Idéal by Guerlain

This smells like it's built around the same aroma chemical used in D&G La Force 11 (and maybe, from more distant memory, D&G The One for Men).

It's slightly less harsh here than D&G La Force 11, making it more wearable. It's not too bad to sample, but it's the kind of thing I think I would get tired of fairly quickly, too harshly chemical smelling.

Mixed in the the chemical-smelling woody amber base is a tobacco-type smell, which is bringing to mind D&G The One for Men, and which is a nice addition, but probably doing no more than making this one wearing bearable. This is one where I probably won't even finish the 1-ml sample.

Guerlain Homme L'Eau Boisée by Guerlain

I'm struggling with this one. I'd be more likely to give it a thumbs down than a thumbs up. The card with the sample is selling it as a vetiver, it's not one of the better ones I've smelled, harsher than seems necessary, more manufactured than natural. It's not a disaster, but it's not for me.

Vermeil for Men by Vermeil

I think I agree about the comparison to Davidoff, and I agree it can smell like pipe tobacco after it develops for a while.

The opening isn't its strong suit, and I agree with the reference below to Irish Spring soap.

During the mid, it can give me an image of soft, worn, dark brown leather, such as a nice leather sofa.

Into the base, it's increasingly floral.

A marginal thumbs up. I'm conflicted. It can produce good moments, but I don't feel comfortable enough to wear it as a date scent.

Coromandel Eau de Parfum by Chanel

Of course this is a thumbs up, the question is how good is it compared to the legendary edt?

It's probably not quite as good as the edt.

I didn't think the edt was perfect, and I never went beyond a large decant, but it did have magical moments: a base that went on forever, seemingly getting even better 12 hours later.

The edp is a slightly tamed version. It's probably 90% of the fragrance the edt was. I can't see too much lamenting about the change in formulation. This is the best Coromandel edt knockoff ever.

I think the edp is slightly less complex, more simply sweet.

Black Gold by Ormonde Jayne

This is an interesting fragrance, a better fit for a woman, to my nose. I'm happy to smell this kind of smell around, but it's not really for me as something to wear.

I do smell the connection to Jubilation XXV, although this is a more feminine fragrance, a fruity floral, but backed with dark woods and/or resins somewhat similar to Jubilation XXV.

Deep into the wearing, I got some great moments in the projection from the base.

Lui by Guerlain

Lui is fragrance running counter to the market trend (unlike Mon Guerlain, which has taken up the baton of the market trend). Lui is subtle.

I applied a heavy dose, and felt somewhat anosmic to it at first, but it eventually warmed its way into my affections, eventually smelling like a sweet, smoky vetiver, although I see now that vetiver isn't listed, so make that woods.

I got great longevity from it, and was excited that Guerlain had produced something this nice.

Tribute Attar by Amouage

Wearing Tribute Attar (from the black box, at least) makes me smell like a cigarette smoker, but an especially good-smelling one. I like it.

It's not perfect, but it's quite interesting. It is something I would be interested in wearing from time to time. I would feel confident of making a positive impression wearing this. It's strong and memorable. It's an exciting sampling experience. It is crazy smoky, in a good way, borderline overboard, but just the right side of tasteful. An enthusiastic thumbs up for this nuclear-strength, smoky, tobacco bomb.

Essence No. 6 : Vetiver by Elie Saab

This is a great citrus vetiver, on par with the best vetivers I've tried.

The papyrus note is part of the beauty of this. I get images of nice, thick vetiver-scented paper, or even a scented book made with really nice paper.

Peau d'Espagne / Spanish Leather by Santa Maria Novella

This leather is a little too much on the raunchy side for my tastes, although I appreciate its boldness.

Be the Legend by Oriflame

I'm a naysayer for a lot of modern perfumes, including this one. I'm fairly confident this uses the same aroma-chemical featured in Dolce and Gabbana The One for Men, which I prefer over this. In both cases, the aroma-chemical induces a weariness, despite smelling ok in moments. My sense of smell is initially drawn to it, and somewhat interested, but then concern sets in - that it might be harmful, perhaps headache inducing, and the association with potential harm is a deal breaker. Ultimately, it smells too harsh for me.

JHL by Aramis

I'm sampling what I think is vintage Aramis JHL, and enjoying it tremendously, which is typical for me sampling Aramis fragrances. I don't know if it's something I would wear often if I had a bottle - maybe - but it's a delicious, mouthwatering sampling experience. Old-school goodness, warm and spicy, masculine floral. I don't see moss listed, but it smells mossy to me, with its luscious texture.

Not to detract from how fantastic this is, but to remind myself what it smells like, somewhat: the best-smelling mens' deodorants from the 1980s smelled like rip offs of this, or tributes to it - the Speed Stick by Mennen with the brown cap, the spicy one, comes to mind.

What seemingly makes this perfume so great is some animalic component, I think musk. As much as I like this, I would want to get a great deal on the original version to buy a bottle - I don't think it's something I would wear often. I get more joy from the opening and early stages than the base.

Mon Guerlain Eau de Parfum by Guerlain

Mon Guerlain doesn't smell too bad up close. It's not great, but within the context of modern trends in perfumery, it smells typical. It even reminded me slightly of Guerlain Iris Ganache or perhaps even Dior Homme Intense, in its best moments. The smell it was projecting, however, did not work for me, and it was striking me as a scrubber.

Armani by Giorgio Armani

Thumbs way up for this delicious animalic floral. The early 1980s is a favorite period of mine for perfume, and this is a quintessential example of what was possible back then.

The floral-animalic combination is somewhat like the original Boss (Boss No. 1), if it reminds me of anything from my collection, but this is a bigger floral, also bringing to mind Chanel Coco, although I think I like this Armani even more.

Patrick by Fragrances of Ireland

Classic smelling in a nice way, the smell of know-how, citrusy - not too dissimilar to an Eau de Cologne - with the warmth of other notes adding depth and complexity. Easy to wear. Nice from the first spray.