Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Bavard

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Total Reviews: 439

Collection Notes de Fond : Cèdre-Iris by Affinessence

The opening of this is somewhat similar to Olympic Orchids Woodcut to my nose. It starts with a similar wood note that reminds me of dark roasted peanut butter. The iris (orris root) note helps take it in a different direction, and over time the orris root takes over. It's an interesting, modern-smelling, heavy fragrance, but does not work for my tastes.
01st June, 2017

Collection Notes de Fond : Santal-Basmati by Affinessence

The opening of Santal-Basmati was disappointing, a big sweet blast of typical modern-smelling perfume. The idea of this line is to focus on base notes, which could help explain the jarring opening. Within a few minutes, it settled into a sweet, woody fragrance with some complexity competing with the sweetness, showing promising development.

I couldn't really pick up on a rice note. There is a touch of interesting complexity as the sweetness dissipates, but I would have guessed it came from the wood note itself.

For how disappointing the opening was, it settled into a surprisingly agreeable skin scent: warm and round as advertised. The listed note of cashmeran is mostly what I get from this fragrance, more so than sandalwood or basmati rice. I like cashmeran (so-called blond woods) fairly well, and they've tried to add something to make it more interesting, but there's only so much that can be done, seemingly, with a cashmeran-centered fragrance.
31st May, 2017

Sartoriale by Pal Zileri

This strikes me as artificial-smelling and a tad harsh. If feels like an effort to recreate the feel of a 1980s fragrance along the lines Davidoff Zino, which is noble pursuit, but it doesn't quite come together for me.

I think the note I'm picking up would be the one listed as cashmere wood.
28th May, 2017
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POP by Stella McCartney

I like this. It smells like a modern, sweet floral without the harsh aroma chemicals I detect in some new releases. I'm surprised a fruit note isn't listed, or maybe candied violets. Tuberose and sandalwood are not the main notes I think I'm smelling. It may lack the character of natural ingredients to keep it interesting long-term, but for a modern perfume, it smells well done to me. It opens with a nice accord that never breaks down, is fairly linear, and has great longevity.
27th May, 2017

Agent Provocateur by Agent Provocateur

This is a complex fragrance. The initial blast is slightly alarming, with what feels like an off note, especially compared to what someone might expect from the pink bottle, but as it settles, it's gripping and addictive. The flowers are competing with gamy notes, mostly saffron I gather, and the flowers in this are likely on the gamy side themselves.

It settles into the main accord within a few minutes, and it's strong and intriguing enough to create a mild physiological euphoria.
25th May, 2017

Drôle de Rose by L'Artisan Parfumeur

This is an agreeable, powdery, floral perfume. The opening reminds me of a clean baby, fresh from the bath with warm skin projecting baby bath products. As it develops, the powder fades, and it becomes a more mature floral with the listed notes of rose, iris, and violet seeming plausible, especially violet, giving it a sweet, floral complexity. I've also seen almond and honey listed, which could be adding the edible-smelling aspect. Almond is tricky to pull off, and can go badly. Here, it could be the almond making this a little edgy in the development.
22nd May, 2017

Joy by Jean Patou

The Patou fragrances I've tried, Pour Homme, Pour Homme Prive, Eau de Patou, 1000, and Joy, have been fantastic. Joy is a big floral with plenty of character. I think it comes from a combination of the flower concentrates and a dash of animalics. I'm sampling from a pre-2000 version, I believe.

Looking at the listed notes, peach, jasmine, tuberose, musk, and civet sound right to me.
21st May, 2017

The One for Men Eau de Parfum by Dolce & Gabbana

I find something in the formula of Dolce and Gabbana The One for Men, edt and edp, especially interesting, mostly in the top, but the bases are duds.

The edt may have more promise in the top, but more disappointment in the base. The edp seemed quieter in the top, but stayed interesting longer into the development. Overall, I think the edp improves on the edt. Something in the base of the edt seemed more objectionable.
20th May, 2017

Polo Blue Eau de Parfum by Ralph Lauren

To me, Polo Blue edt and now Polo Blue edp smell like what I think of as hedione, an interesting synthetic ingredient that can grow tiresome, and I was tired of it before I tested Polo Blue edp. It has come across of harsh and unpleasant, and difficult to wash off.
20th May, 2017

Alain Delon / AD by Alain Delon

Alain Delon has an impeccable opening with carnation, moss, woods, and geranium, and it smells like it's from 1980, around the time the best masculine fragrances were made, for my tastes. As it develops, some of the magic of the opening is lost, and the base is relatively plain. I think is the geranium note has good longevity, but the other notes fade.

For other, fantastic geranium fragrances, try Ebene de Balmain and Aramis Tuscany.
16th May, 2017 (last edited: 18th May, 2017)

Rose Omeyyade by Atelier Des Ors

This is a sweet perfume, but it has plenty of counterbalancing complexity to my nose to make it interesting and wearable. Some ingredient in this is nice. I get an image of traveling in Europe, waiting for a train in France. I'm guessing it has a synthetic wood I happen to like.
12th May, 2017

Rima XI by Carner Barcelona

There's not much to dislike in this. It's sweet and woody, round and warm, a better alternative to Frederic Malle Dries Van Noten, perhaps. It has a slight hint of a porridge smell, which I think is cashmeran, also known as blonde woods.
06th May, 2017

Eau d'Hermès by Hermès

This is a lighter, citrus fragrance, but with nice supporting structure that has something such as cumin adding a lovely dose of character.
01st May, 2017
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Révillon pour Homme by Révillon

Thumbs up for this 1977 release. It's rich and full bodied in the opening. It has a mossy green tinge, and smells like it was made from quality ingredients. It seems like an unobtrusive kind of smell, not a typical cologne smell to me. It almost smells like someone may have been working in the prep kitchen, with smells of food, soap, and leather. This is not a must-have for me, but I'm happy to have had a few wearings. This reminds me of Caron Yatagan, which I think I prefer.
25th April, 2017

Dunhill for Men by Dunhill

Vintage Dunhill for Men has developed differently during different wearings for me. It reminds me of Hermes Equipage with a touch of a soapy note somewhat similar to Paco Rabanne Pour Homme. During some wearings, the soapy, shaving-cream type notes burn off, and a base similar to Cuir de Russie comes out, which goes on to develop into a nice tonka skin scent.
17th April, 2017 (last edited: 05th May, 2017)

Acteur by Azzaro

A woody rose fragrance. I'm not a big fan of the woods used by Azzaro. The rose is fine. This is an interesting fragrance, but not quite for me.
17th April, 2017

Etienne Aigner by Etienne Aigner

Knowing Chanel Pour Monsiuer, this fragrance, Etienne Aigner, is what I imagine Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentree should smell like. Chanel decided to do something a little different when they finally got around to making Pour Monsieur Concentree in 1989. For people who think it should have smelled more like Pour Monsieur, Etienne Aigner could be the solution. It's an oak moss bomb.
14th April, 2017

Trussardi Uomo (original) by Trussardi

The opening of Trussardi Uomo immediately reminds me of Van Cleef and Arpels pour Homme, but within minutes it joins the group I find similar smelling of Salvador Dali pour Homme, Montana Parfum d'Homme and/or Montana pour Homme, and Francesco Smalto pour Homme. From this group, I think I may only like the Smalto more than this one. The Trusssardi is a strong entry.
11th April, 2017

Davidoff by Davidoff

Davidoff by Davidoff is an outstanding men's fragrance, on par with the original Boss No. 1: an office fragrance with animalic intrigue. Fragrances for men from around this time are my favorite.
11th April, 2017

Palais Jamais by Etro

This is my second Etro sampling. I liked Etro Vetiver more than this one.

The opening of Palais Jamais has promise, and it's an interesting fragrance worth smelling, but it's not something I especially enjoy wearing. As it develops, it gets worse: more artificial smelling, less floral, more cloying.
10th April, 2017

Arpège pour Homme by Lanvin

Similar to Burberrys for Men (1992), but no (or less) mint, and there's a wood note here that's not great, but that adds a contrast to the ambery sweetness and makes it interesting to sample.
01st April, 2017 (last edited: 19th April, 2017)

Rose Splendide by Annick Goutal

In the opening 15 minutes, I felt like I could pick out the individual notes of pear, vanilla and/or tonka, and musk; and then it blended into a harmonious accord similar to Burberry for Women from 1995, and held that accord from then on. I like this even more than Burberry, it's more rounded and less challenging after the first half hour. I think this would work well for women as a date-night scent.

The rose in this smells like a vase full of roses, dark, rich roses, and not sweet.
19th March, 2017 (last edited: 24th May, 2017)

Rive Gauche by Yves Saint Laurent

Mid-1980s edt: This is a nice, wearable floral, perfectly unisex. It smells like it uses high-quality ingredients that are no longer available or no longer used, and that give it an effortless refinement.
19th March, 2017

Rose Absolue by Annick Goutal

All I can smell from this is rose. I came to check the notes, and the only notes listed are roses, and Darvant's review further supports my impression that natural-smelling rose is the effect of this perfume.

In my experience, I notice a correlation between perfumes smelling natural and not feeling especially strong, and that applies here. I feel like this wears close to the skin. Up close though, it is a beautiful, natural, soft rose smell.
19th March, 2017

21 Club by 21 Club

This smells like woods with oak moss to me, and a dash of herbs, a lovely fragrance. It's not a dark wood, more medium brightness. It may have an addictive quality: smelling it up close is providing rewarding inhales.
16th March, 2017

Ébène by Pierre Balmain

A bottle of this would be nice. It smells leathery in the opening. As it develops, I agree it smells like Aramis Tuscany, perhaps with a lighter touch of geranium.
12th March, 2017

Macassar by Rochas

This smells like a combination of woods and bright florals. The woods smell well done. For the florals, I'm not surprised to see geranium listed. Geranium seems to add interesting character to fragrances. I also feel like this fragrance may be using a light touch of animalic fixatives to give the fragrance depth and complexity.

The base of this reminds me of Chanel Egoiste.
07th March, 2017

Gatsby by Pacoma

This is an intriguing fragrance, with a deep, rich, vintage smell; similar, to my nose, to Escada pour Homme.
05th March, 2017

Or Black by Pascal Morabito

I've worn this four times now, from what I believe was a vintage sample. I've been getting consistently fair results, except during the third wearing when it bloomed and became especially nice. This reminds me a little of Frederic Malle Dan Tes Bras.
04th March, 2017

Kouros Eau de Sport by Yves Saint Laurent

This is an exciting fragrance, but I can imagine it's not for everyone. It's a distinctive animalic. It smells a little cleaner than original Kouros, but mostly does smell like the original; unlike Kouros Fraicheur, which to me smells quite different, and is more in line with my tastes. I could almost give this a neutral - it feels inappropriate for daily wear.
03rd March, 2017