Perfume Reviews

Reviews by rainbowpickett

Total Reviews: 11

Moko Maori by Gri Gri

Moko Maori can be described as a woody, aquatic fougère highlighted with clean and animal musks. It is probably the most aquatic scent within the Gri Gri line. Sweet, dust-dry, metallic-citric, lightly salty and heavy on musks. I picture rose, lavender, coumarin, possibly oakmoss and cinnamon below a woody texture reminiscent of chalk and a cooling effect that I would relate to mint and geranium. It feels damp and dry at the same time. Somehow the combination of an aquatic appearance with a chalky texture and the challenging overdose of musks with sweetness make me think of Andy Tauer's perfumes. By this comparison Anaïs Biguine's composition seems slimmer, more decided, bolder. The perfume still acts suffocating on me, in a friendly way though.
13th September, 2017

Costes No. 2 by Hôtel Costes

Baby powder with hints of cinnamon, geranium and sebum. There is a discretely floral vibe to it. It seems to be a slimmed version of Flower by Kenzo.
19th September, 2016

L'Eau d'Hiver by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

If you picture L'Eau d'Hiver to be a Jacquard weave composition it could be the reverse side of Eau de Gentiane Blanche.
19th September, 2016
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The Afternoon of a Faun by Etat Libre d'Orange

The Afternoon of a Faun starts with a squeaking, citrusy, green, waxy, alkaline, almost bitter rose which later settles with the aid of immortelle into a more powdery flavor reminiscent of dried rose petals. Also this dusty structure makes the connection to pepper and oakmoss, more raspy structures with different frequencies. As oakmoss is green, so behaves the citrusy rose from the beginning and incense in the middle. On the next morning you discover the faun – warm skin and fur – at this point it reminds me of LesNez' Antimatier with a hint of beeswax.

All in all The Afternoon of a Faun consists of many more compositional details. But what impresses me most is its truly melancholic spirit full of wicked pain and lust. As the faun desires the nymphs, so was Vaslav Nijinsky obsessed to rewrite ballet and was the aging ballet impressario fascinated by the beauty of the dancer. It makes me think of an apartment on Place Vendôme in October, the incidence of sunlight into a room with shellac seatings and glass cabinets, coffee stains in porcelain cups and a bouquet of wilting roses.
19th September, 2016

Lipstick Rose by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Lipstick Rose makes a great interplay of surfaces – creamed powder tinged with rose and violet and steeped with a bitter woody structure. Besides the vibe I get from the combination of musk, vanilla and violet as in candied violets I can not find LR nostalgic or old-fashioned. Its lipstick idea still matches just as much a contemporary one. Instead I would call LR monstrously cute and carnal ... like a film between bodies as touched and rubbed off makeup, sweat and semen. Not only does it taste waxy, creamy, rich, sweetish, but also bitter, bitter sour and slightly alkaline. The next day the explicit connections recede and the calmer, more comforting rooty aspects of the composition come to the front. Roots as in iris, carrots and vetiver. Lipstick on a warm woody base, eased and grounded. Throughout the entire wear vetiver seems to act discretely in the back as a go-between. Without drawing much attention to itself it manages to connect woodiness, grapefruit's bitterness, iris' roots and violet blue into one drag composition. It's fun to wear.
19th September, 2016

Dior Homme Cologne (2013) by Christian Dior

A modern cotton scent – clean and clear from the outset, rooted in a translucent base, with a filmy rasping texture. It has a sharply rendered, slightly bitter, crystalline structure with a metallic feel which may remind one of lactonic citruses or glass fiber. The composition develops through out and, what caught more my attention, becomes softer in its early base while keeping its metallic, aromatic, citrus-like quality. Its feathery bitterness and delicately dry (woodsy) vibration go very well together with certain aspects of vetiver – notes of grapefruit and blond woods as you may find them in some vetiver absolutes or Vetiveryl acetat. At this stage I connect vetiver to the flowery and purple sides of iris. Later, after 48 hours observed on a blotter, the base fades out into a restrained iris – powdery, almost creamy, violet, carrot root.
23rd August, 2015

Love Les Carottes by Honoré de Prés

As sometimes, there is a theme leading to an utterly tight bound composition. So tight that multiple accords and juxtapositions seem to fuse into one controlled sphere. Complete container or geometric volume – you have to inhale it and let yourself sink in order to get to the bottom of its obscure details. There is bitterness, a rarer and profound quality within a structure. There is green. There is powder and butter as in orris root. There are carrot seeds and filmy patchouli as from moist soil on roots. Carrot seeds and bitterness. Carrot seeds and powder. Carrot seeds and vanillized orange peel. There is sweetness. Sometimes bitter tastes sweet. This type of sweetness appears gauzy within floral systematics, and makes up for a clearly kinder feel. So as sometimes, a homely theme with its many seemingly recognizable components may lead you into the inner world of an imaginary object – a bubble or bobble or multilayer ball. This reminds me of Gertrude Stein's poetry collection Tender Buttons in which Stein proffers an experience of the sublime based on shared domestic life and an articulation of object-love as a sort of remedy at a time of war.
22nd July, 2015 (last edited: 19th September, 2016)

Jour d'Hermès by Hermès

This contemporary chypre composition might be inspired by Edmond Roudnitska's Le Parfum de Therese (Frédéric Malle).
Imagine e.g. LPDT's melon – a rather aquatic, ozonic and, not only for that reason, an unusual note in its day, the 1950s – replaced by a salty, mineral texture and mango – a successful note on the Brazilian and Asian fragrance marketplace and, maybe also for that reason, one of Jean-Claude Ellena's lately favored characters.
22nd July, 2015

Hermèssence Cuir d'Ange by Hermès

This could be an Iris scent too. Its soft leather accord might recall the one in Penhaligon's Iris Prima. Not sweet like the salty vanilla in IP but it bares the prickling of sugary notes. Not creamy but it hints at the corpulence of sheer powder and clean floral musk. In comparison Cuir d'Ange is the cooler, simpler (less complex and more reduced) composition, baring no other intended literal analogy besides to leather, but acting similarly winsome.

In the beginning leather is paired with the flavor of brand new impregnation, waxy and petroleum/plastic-like. During wear it seems to stay at times closer to the skin than its underlying structure. A structure reminiscent of Bois Farine (Jean Claude Ellena, 2003), the smell of flour and raw cooky dow. Though the hierarchy is clearly defined – here cooky dow works as the foundation, while leather is the theme and floral notes behave as subtle radiance in a sheer and vaguely pulsating (Iso E Super) composition.

As most or eventually all of the Hermessences, Cuir d'Ange is a skin scent with a current, simultaneously timeless feel, homely, dapper, deeply bourgeois, for mainly middle-aged to aged buyers. But it can do more. Through its equivalently fragmented construction it might appear open to wearers of any age, gender or other less explicit social affiliation.
22nd July, 2015

Cowboy Grass by D.S. & Durga

Vetiver combined with herbs, greens and the smell of a saddle blanket – salt, sebum and leather. A bold and unique draft on vetiver.

With vetiver in its center, the evolvement of the composition seems linear, still it follows the standard sequences unobtrusively. In the opening the green facets are highlighted. There are linalool and other common green top notes but in an unusual high concentration, strong and harsh. A bite that does not curry favor with one, it rather shows attitude. The key and allure of the whole perfume.

Within 15 minutes the bite leaves, green stays and the brute (animal), dirtier shares are emerging. They mingle and bounce against each other, slowly fading towards the end (which is the next day) leading into a fully and roundedly rendered, blazing, aromatic, fruity aspect of vetiver. Very pleasing.
22nd July, 2015

Dzing! by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Imagine freshly laundered (detergent and soap) beavers, eating candy apples, wearing Chanel Nr 5 perfumed leather jackets, slobing around a haystack. The opening is fun – a tiny sting of ginger and cinnamon. Heaps of musk paired with the animal components of white florals (Kiehl's Original Musk) and aldehydes. Soft and bitter leather fading really soon. Soft woods as in sawdust. Hazy rose, coumarin and calmer musk.
22nd July, 2015