Perfume Reviews

Reviews by epapsiou

Total Reviews: 496

Teatro Alla Scala by Krizia

Stardate 20191101:

The epitome of perfumery (Italian or otherwise). Perhaps the best floral ever made. The only other that is close is the vintage First by VCA (Elena's one and only masterpiece).
The aldehydes are not in your face here but support the whole structure. The rose, jasmine, honey and civet make up the core of this with aldehydes and musk providing support. The development and complexity is where the Italian perfumery is at its best and Krizia delivers.
I have tried both EDP and EDT. Both are amazing and FBW++ . But they are similar enough that you don't need both. I like EDT much better - brighter, more development and less aldehyde.

For some reason Krizia is not talked about a lot here and elsewhere on the interwebs.
Go get this one while still at $1/ml.
Don't think, just do it
01st November, 2019

Seaward by Herbalife

Stardate 20190822:

A fougere with peppery incense. I thought Ormondo Jayne started this trend but I guess they just copied Seaward's style.
It was love at first site, perhaps the only time I bought a fragrance on the spot as soon as I smelled it.
24th August, 2019

Fougère Royale by Houbigant

Stardate 20190821:

I don't think I can add any thing new here. This is where "masculine" perfumery started.
Unfortunately I am not sure how the current one compares to the original.
Don't get me wrong. The current one is amazing. It is one fragrance everyone should have in their wardrobe. No excuses. Note that there are two versions out there - EDP and Extrait. Both are FBW. I find the EDP better (and more versatile) than extrait. Both can be had for under $1/ml.

But I wonder how the original one might have been. I have a bottle from 70s or so. It is called Houbigant Royal Fern cologne. But it is more of a EDC than a fougere. Nothing like (and,surprisingly, inferior to) what is out now.

21st August, 2019
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Panama 1924 : Millésimé by Boellis

Stardate 20190820:

This is so much better than Declaration. A sophisticated and refined version. The musk, Ambrette and coriander add a good deal of skank to it. The beauty is the balance. The spices and jasmine tea counterbalances the skank and you get a smooth, almost dandy, fragrance.
Jasmine, tea and vetiver play same role as they do in Palais Jamais - which is another great fragrance.

A hidden gem.
20th August, 2019

Pentecost by PK Perfumes

Stardate 20190816:

Cheap floral. Rose used in this reminds me of a floor cleaner. Pass
16th August, 2019

Gold Leather by PK Perfumes

Stardate 20190814:
Very strong AC up top. Much more than usual. Smells like those newer nuclear Bogart orientals.
I could not wear it for long and had to scrub it off.
14th August, 2019 (last edited: 16th August, 2019)

Carissa by PK Perfumes

Stardate 20190814:

Pimiento , burnt meat. Seems like half finished version of Red Leather.

14th August, 2019

Ginger Zest de Citron by PK Perfumes

Stardate 20190814:

This one is very light. Very unlike Paul's other fragrances.
Citrus, musk, vetiver all very light. There are some spices that are even more muted.
Not bad but I see no reason to buy it
13th August, 2019

Violet Chocolatier by PK Perfumes

Stardate 20190812:

It is very hard to get chocolate right in fragrances. Coffee is easier but chocolate has never been done right in my opinion. It just overpowers and throws the balance off. The trick is to use it disparagingly. I think Sarah from 4160 got close in one of hers and so did Paul in this.
Again top is off balance like his other stuff but it does settle down fast and you get soft chocolate in background with jolly rancher blue raspberry and violet in the foreground, indoles and hazelnut balancing the composition.
A nice fragrance and a good study in use of chocolate.
I am still searching for a good chocolate fragrance.
12th August, 2019

Cafe Diem by PK Perfumes

Stardate 20190811:

Opens with galbanum, incensne , amber, spices and musk. As it settles down I get some Hinoki and coffee too.
It is right in my wheelhouse. Sweet and spicy incense.
If you like CdG incense series or MadHat's Incenses you will like this one too.

FBW and Thumbs up
12th August, 2019

Red Leather by PK Perfumes

Stardate 20190809:

It begins with smell of something you would eat in a summer day barbeque.
Pimiento, rhubarb, juniper, burnt meat.
But soon it develops into a smoky meaty medicinal scent.
I can understand why it is one of his most popular fragrance.
The smoky accord is similar to one in Amouage attar (Tribute I think).

I think the leather here is smoked meat :)
09th August, 2019

Ere by PK Perfumes

Stardate 20190809:

It is a fragrance that covers a lot of ground. Has the modern aromatic fougere element to it. It is also clean, coniferous and crisp.
But it follows a mass market script and is missing the artisanal touch one expects.
It is very similar to one of those Cereus (4 or 7 can't remember).

A bit better than meh and so a moderate thumbs up.
09th August, 2019

Dirty Rose Oud Extreme by PK Perfumes

Stardate 20190808:
Start is similar to dirty rose. Muddy. But this has more rose up top. Better but has that harshness that I find in most PK fragrances.
This one settles down to a nice oudhy rose. Similar to the Gulabsingh's oud attars. Similar to Oud Dusita but less poopsie more rose.
Hindi barnyard oud with roses. ClaireV (or was it PC) used a description for this kind of "decadence" - dung in silk stockings.

A decent fragrance if you like that sort of Oud
09th August, 2019
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Dirty Rose by PK Perfumes

Stardate 20190808:

The first thing I smell is muddy, rooty earth with some rose. It is harsh up top but softens within couple of hour and becomes a nice iris fragrance with a touch of rose.
I think the rooty smell up top is due to orris.
It is dirty but not very rosy. Mostly iris but rose does become prominent again with a bit of oud at the end (after 10hours)
All in all an OK fragrance.
08th August, 2019 (last edited: 09th August, 2019)

Velvet Curaçao by PK Perfumes

Stardate 20190807:

Start is harsh and rough. But within an hour it comes together as a beautiful old style chypre in the background with orange marmalade and indolic white flowers. There is some powdery musk in the drydown that makes it positively vintage in style.
Took me a while to figure out the orange in it as it is steeped in syrup.
I like this fragrance and recommend it to vintage lovers.

07th August, 2019

Zaffran by PK Perfumes

Stardate 20190806:
Starts out with very strong Saffron. But soon an egg accord shows up and overtakes the fragrance. The saffron fades with time leaving over cooked eggs.

Thumbs down but giving neutral cause my sample is old and maybe spoiled. Will have to revisit to be sure.
06th August, 2019

Lita by PK Perfumes

When I first sprayed it I was hit by strong fruit notes. Could not figure out what it was. It smelled like pineapple,grape, melon - the works. Within few minutes it settled down to Yuzu and some peach with faint white floral backdrop
A nice fruit fragrance.

Mildly Thumbs Up.
06th August, 2019

Chamade pour Homme by Guerlain

Stardate 20190729:

I like Coriolan and so I like Chamade PH. I find it a bit better (more complex) than L’Ame d’un Héros.
In the end all three are similar and unless you are a collector, stick to the original - it is cheaper and best of them all.
29th July, 2019

Agent Provocateur by Agent Provocateur

Stardate 20190714:

A very nice rose oud. And for the price a no brainer. This is the first rose-oud I would recommend.
It is softer and blending is nice. Unisex leaning feminine.
14th July, 2019

Aubépine-Acacia by Creed

Stardate 20190709:

Starts as hesperidic galbanum and evolves into soapy citrus floral.
A very agreeable fragrance for summer. Longevity could be better
09th July, 2019

Force Majeure by Jacques Bogart

Stardate 20190702:

A decent masculine oriental. Not nuclear at all which is a refreshing change.
I find it not as good as others in this category in similar price range - Arpege PH, Cristobal Homme.
Not bad if you can find it for cheap.
02nd July, 2019

Vetiver by Roja Dove

Stardate 20190701:

Again a Guerlain homage. Execution is a bit modern and sits somewhere between Guerlain and Ford's Grey Vetiver.
Nothing special. There are better vetivers - Guerlain, Diptyque, Carven.
One thing though, this one has good longevity. Took a shower and still is potent. And that is just with one spray.
01st July, 2019

Enslaved by Roja Dove

Stardate 20190701:

I get a lot of Tonka here. The kind that goes for tobacco these days (like Tom Ford's Tobacco Vanilla). I do not see it listed as one of the notes.
There is some woods and vetiver at the end during drydown.
Nothing interesting here.

01st July, 2019

Enigma pour Homme / Creation-E pour Homme by Roja Dove

Stardate 20190626:

Almondy heliotrope and some jasmine. Dries down to a dry wood accord. Also has that cactus Guaiac accord that was very popular a few years ago.
Basically a mishmash of various newer AC along with some classic florals.
Not a scrubber but meh.
for the price thumbs down
26th June, 2019

Mischief by Roja Dove

Stardate 20190621:

A decent floral. A homage to the great light florals of the golden age of perfumery.
Violet, Orange Blossoms and Muguet are the main star. What is nice is that Violets are in the background and are not overpowering.
I would recommend it but for the price get any vintage floral (like Diorissimo) which are better and cheaper.

21st June, 2019

Fetish pour Homme by Roja Dove

Stardate 20190616:

An attempted clone of BelAmi at more than twice the price of vintage shaker bottle.
Why would anyone buy this is beyond me.
17th June, 2019

Beguiled by Roja Dove

Stardate 20190611:
A subset of Danger Femme but a good subset.
So he took Jasmine, Iris, musk and some SW AC from Danger Femme and made this. Left out the nuclear synthetic accords and consequently better than Danger.
11th June, 2019

Danger pour Femme by Roja Dove

Stardate 20190611:

Danger Femme is Samsara (EDP from a 2015 bottle) minus realistic SW accord. Basically polysantol (along with whatever cheap synthetic sandal AC mixture Roger uses) overload with some jasmine and ylang. I will not compare this to vintage Samsara as it is not worthy of that honor.
What bothers me is that current (2015 bottle) Samsara also uses polysantol and cheap AC (cheap cause you can buy it for under $50) but is so much better composition.

Just buy Samsara
11th June, 2019

Danger pour Homme by Roja Dove

Stardate 20190611:

A poor copy of Heritage by Guerlain. A faint watered down facsimile with all the best stuff removed and replaced with cumin and laundry musk.

Save your money and buy Heritage
11th June, 2019

Reckless pour Femme by Roja Dove

Stardate 20190611:

Orange Blossoms, Jasmine and musk. Plus something sweet at back.
Not bad.
11th June, 2019