Perfume Reviews

Reviews by epapsiou

Total Reviews: 437

First by Van Cleef & Arpels

Stardate 20180913:

When I was a newbie, I got a bunch of these from Target to give as gifts. I liked the shape of bottle,its name and it smelled decent though a bit old school.

With time, as I tried more fragrances, I thought this is a knock off of other aldehydic florals. Stopped caring for.

A month or two ago I came across vintage version on eBay for cheap and snapped it up. And I am glad I did cause this version is simply amazing.
You can smell the whole floral symphony with 3D effect. But that is not even the best part. The drydown is where you see its beauty in full. Soft, powdery sanadalwood.

It is hard to describe how good this is. I have Arpege and Joy in vintage formulation and I find First to be superior. Arpege is too indolic, First goes low on indoles and uses civet to add the funk. Arpege blinds with aldehydes while First uses it for a shimmering glow.
Joy is a great white floral but it is simple. Lacks the evolution First has.
I have not tried vintage No 5 but the current No 5 is nowhere near any of these 3 vintage florals.
All I can say is that this is Ellena's best work and he should have stuck to this style.

Vintage Version is 5 stars. Current is 3 stars.
13th September, 2018

Basile Uomo Forte by Basile

Stardate 20180901:

Given the "Basile Uomo" in name and the note pyramid, I, like Martin Dean, was expecting herbal powerhouse.
Instead I got a dandified version of Basile Uomo.
The top is herbal and citrus - very much like a flanker of Basile Uomo should be. But then it changes course pretty quickly and goes in the direction of Tiffany for Men/Chanel Cologne Concentree. A bit more spicier but in a subtle way. The spices are like herbes de Provence rather than Italian herbs which was unexpected. Longevity could be better.

All in all a decent vintage frag still available at decent prices.

03rd September, 2018

Hindu Grass by Nasomatto

Stardate 20180822:

A nice boozy patchouli. Has some elements of Givenchy Gentleman. Very unlike typical Nasomatto.

Neutral cause for the price you can buy Vintage Givenchy Gentelmen or Giorgio for Men - both are better than this one.
22nd August, 2018
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Rosa Ribes by 4160 Tuesdays

Stardate 20180731:

Roses + blue raspberry + iris.

Sarah's signature accord. I like it. I think roses brings out the best in her :) .
31st July, 2018

1954 Terrarossa by Profumo di Firenze

Stardate 20180724:

A beautiful vetiver supported by citrus and a touch of sweet florals. There is a hint of nutmeg.
The drydown is woody soft floral.
Highly Recommended.

24th July, 2018 (last edited: 25th July, 2018)

Coach Leatherware No. 01 by Coach

Stardate 20180822:

To me this is a cousin of vintage Fahrenheit with some boot polish in addition to the normal petrol.
The leathery aspect comes from the boot polish.
Good stuff.
23rd July, 2018

The Vintage Cities: Paris 1948 by 4160 Tuesdays

Stardate 20180718:

Rosy peachy chypre. I like rose and dislike peach. So meh.
18th July, 2018

Signature : Oud Wood & Dark Vanilla by Axe / Lynx

Stardate 20180718:

A nice woody fragrance with vanilla. The oud here is synth woody notes that are used in many "oudy" niche.
Don't get me wrong, this is not a work of art but is better than most of the "oud" fragrances out there.
And at $5 definitely the best bang for your buck 'oud'.
18th July, 2018

Messe de Minuit by Etro

Stardate 20180717:

Musty stale cellar that had seen incense eons ago.
17th July, 2018

Lady Rose Lion (Monkey Unicorn) by 4160 Tuesdays

Stardate 20180711:

Peach stale rose. Not the kind I like but it is nicely done. I can see people liking it. Classic style similar to that Doe in Snow but unfortunately not for me. Peach is not for me.
Thumbs up for composition.
11th July, 2018

The Dark Heart of Old Havana by 4160 Tuesdays

Stardate 20180708:

Never been to Havana but I doubt heart (dark or otherwise) of anything smells like this.
Starts with gag inducing peachy sweet accord. And, fortunately, gets better. But too little too late. Stays cloying for a long time.
I got no tobacco/cigar/ash here but that maybe because my senses were still recovering and won't be trying again.
09th July, 2018

Orca by House of Matriarch

Stardate 20180706:

Incense,spices (cumin mostly) and woods. A flanker for Blackbird I guess cause similar in style. There is some salt (probably ambergris)
Not bad but nothing great here.
06th July, 2018

Arsène Lupin Dandy by Guerlain

Stardate 20180705:

Arsene Lupin (Lopin) is a fictional "gentleman" thief extraordinaire. Brought to life in early 1900s by a French author Maurice Leblanc, Lupin goes on to have great adventures and even had a cross over with Sherlock Holmes.
The two perfumes Dandy and Voyou are an homage to this fictional thief. I assume that Dandy is what JPG thought Lupin wears when moving as a gentleman in high society and Voyou when he is stealing :).
Arsene Lupin Dandy like its namesake is a master of disguise. Starts as a bitter green aromatic - galbanum,cardamon, cumin/incense.
Then it moves on to a "dandy" phase - leather,patchouli, florals and olibanum.
Finally it settles down to a powdery, smoky woodsy iris.

I think this is influenced by Habit Rouge and Heritage. Perhaps a formula that did not make it in the end for either. In any case, a great fragrance.

05th July, 2018
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Vétiver Dry by Carven

Stardate 20180703:

First things first - This is not a dry fragrance and this is not a vetiver fragrance.

This is a cross between aromatic fougere and Eau de Cologne. Taking best from both worlds.
Lavendar, citrus, hint of vetiver, moss and some italian style cologne herbs. You can smell both Azzaro and 4711 in here.
The only issue I have with this is the longevity. It is more fleeting than traditional EDC. But for the first hour or so this is simply a masterpiece
03rd July, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Nelly Hachem-Ruiz by IFF

Stardate 20180701:

Simple Iris vanilla. Nothing more.
01st July, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Jean-Christophe Herault by IFF


Starts with a nice booze. Note says rum I get Cognac. There is some sweet citrus (orange according to the notes). The booze accord dies soon and you are left with sweet , slight citrus fruity (in a good way) candy with some musk. I like this and I think it can be made into something nice along the lines of Idole
28th June, 2018

Nomade by Chloé

Stardate 20180627:

A floral in the mold of vintage Leau Issey. Freesia and florals.
The top has a guava accord which I really like.
Develops very well into a spicy woody skin scent.
Great longevity.
Best release this year imo.
27th June, 2018 (last edited: 28th June, 2018)

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Caroline Dumur by IFF

Stardate 20180626:

Starts with a blast of peppers. Nice strong but not overpowering. Soon develops into a soft floral with subtle pepper background. I get Iris and some orange blossoms. Maybe some white musk.
I like it
27th June, 2018

Russian Oud by Areej le Doré

Stardate 20180626:

Nice inoffensive long lasting oud-musk fragrance.
It starts with blast of good cacao and oud.
Leather and musk make appearance after 30 mins.
The labdanum appear after 10 hours as the oud fades.The musk is the dominant accord at later stages.
I cannot find any fault with this except that I was expecting more from Russian Adam.
I have smelled similar stuff from other houses (Al Harmain - Obsessive Oud and to some extent Rania's Oud Assam) and was hoping this to be at next level. It is not.

Good fragrance but for hype and price - a pass.

Disclaimer: Not an Oudh expert or a good nose so might be missing nuances others are getting.
26th June, 2018 (last edited: 29th June, 2018)

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Domitille Michalon Bertier by IFF

Stardate 20180626:

Generic Amber Vanilla. Nothing to write here. No tobacco or civet for me.
Not bad but nothing original.
26th June, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Loc Dong by IFF

Stardate 20180614:

Nice peachy floral.Has that Auphorie Miyako vibe. Not as good. Linear.
I can see this being made into something special. Needs some thing more (oakmoss would be perfect) on top and maybe sw in the base.
25th June, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Julien Rasquinet by IFF

Stardate 20180622:

Amazing top. Hard to pinpoint what it is. Sweet Patchouli with some rose. Maybe Myrrh is the sweetness.
This one evolves fast. Going at lightspeed. Julien took the 7 minute thing very seriously it seems - a nerd.
The evolution goes through a smoky peppery zone(gunflint or whatever they call it in the description) and ends with some sort of sour musk.
I like it. But after 10 min it does not change and stays sour musk till you scrub it of.
25th June, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Dominique Ropion by IFF

Stardate 20180620:

Hard to pin point the notes for me. Has some of the Timbuktu character. Papyrus, a fruit that I know but can't remember. Cypriol. A bit linear. Meh
25th June, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Sophie Labbé by IFF

Stardate 20180620:

Starts bitter green with pepper. Maybe galbanum. Turns into nice cologne. Citrusy without neroli.
25th June, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Anne Flipo by IFF

Stardate 20180620:

Herbal, leathery , mossy. Reminds me of Heeley Cuir Pleine and the Or Black. In a few minutes the leathery herbal aspect go away and a sweet sour clovey lactonic sort of fragrance remains . A promising one but needs more work
25th June, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Bruno Jovanovic by IFF

Stardate 20180622:

Great rose with some spice. Not sure what it is. It is slight minty, anisic. A POAL like spice but not patch or clove. Maybe one of their captives.
The musk and cream shows up to later.
I like this one but that may be because I love roses.
The Fleur de Peau by diptyque uses something similar (rosey musk)
It lasts long and I think it is a worth POAL (current formulation)replaceement in the later stages.

There are much better roses out there like poal, fleur, voleur etc but this one is a good starting point.
25th June, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Alexis Dadier by IFF

Stardate 20180625:

There is this Indian desert called Kheer. basically a rice pudding which generally is garnished with Cardamom, Pistachio/Almonds and other nuts.
What Alexis did is recreated a good Kheer.
No development but this is one of the best use of cardamom. The only use of cardamom that I approve (FWIW).
25th June, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Juliette Karagueuzoglou by IFF

Stardate 20180625:

I am not a big fan of cacao in perfumery cause most perfumers don't know how to use this note. Most of them end up with strong coconut-fig accord instead of real cacao.
I only know of two who got it right - Juliette and Sarah of 4160. I guess ladies know their chocolate :).

This one is cacao and some woods (cedar mostly).
Nicely done but lacks development.
25th June, 2018

Captured By Candlelight by 4160 Tuesdays

Stardate 20180617:

Starts with sweet bubblegum and some incense. Maybe the snuffwd out candle Accord.
Morphs into sweet toffee, woods and rum.
Like it
20th June, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Epicene Gamma / Nicolas Beaulieu by IFF

Stardate 20180614:

Starts off like Italian Eau de Colgne. Good quality and has something more that makes it really good. Geranium maybe or that Gamma thingy.
I get a lot of citrus here. Citrus that lasts for hours.
This one would make a great addition to Acqua de Parma Colonia line.

Good stuff
14th June, 2018