Perfume Reviews

Reviews by epapsiou

Total Reviews: 299

Wall Street by Victor

stardate 20170921:

Leathery, piney old school masculine.
But not too loud. Good for all scenarios and folks including vespa riding, non-fat, vegan, half cal frapuccino drinking , no-sock wearing folks. Sorry Dandydude.

21st September, 2017

Racine by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

Stardate 20170921:
Red non-argyle bottle:

Starts out leathery chyprish - sorta like Capucci PH vintage. I guess it must be the Moss+Citrus+Musk.
The effect doe snot last long and is replace by Vetiver and candied citrus accord balanced by musk (white I think)
This is the accord that goes all the way to the end. Vetiver gets more prominent as time passes.

A nice take on vetiver and a good fragrance. If you are looking for a vetiver centric fragrance this is not it. I prefer Guerlain, Carven vetiver. But if you are looking for a different take of traditional cologne go for it.
21st September, 2017

Trussardi Uomo (original) by Trussardi

Stardate 20170918:
Vintage Version.

A leathery incensey floral Chuck Norris.
One of those fragrances that wear you.
Sillage and longevity is great.

It shares its DNA with VCA Pour Homme as well as Leonard PH. Similarities with Smalto, Montana and others noted in other reviews are apt.

One Million of the 80s, though 1000 times better. The development is great. Dries down to spicy powdery tobaccoy sweetness.

Nothing to dislike. Just get it.

18th September, 2017
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Open by Roger & Gallet

Stardate 20170916:
Vintage Version:

A nice powerhouse of the past. Herbs, Lavendar, Pine, Patchouli. Soapy too.
A sophisticated fragrance for less than $20. Can't beat that.
There are similarities with Quorum, Polo, Revillon PH and I guess others from that era. But this is its own beast.
development is good, drydown great with patchouli bringing in some soothing balmy effect.
Great for hot humid days.
17th September, 2017

Amour Amour by Jean Patou

Stardate 20170916:

The Patou at its best. Or almost.
Rose, Jasmine and some other florals. Sweetness of amber\honey.
Nahema got its rose idea from Amour Amour.
Wish I could add more - a good old school floral.
16th September, 2017

Gabrielle by Chanel

Stardate 20170912:

Chanel does Sauvage. Or, perhaps more apt, Blue de Chanel Pour femme.
Inoffensive, safe and boring.
12th September, 2017

Unsettled by Bruno Fazzolari

Stardate 20170911:

I was expecting greatness here after Au Dela Narcisse. And there are some flashes of it in drydown. I wish there were more than flashes.
The top is very pina-coladaish. Milky coconuty pineapple. The development is good and you get a nice creamy SW drydown.
Overall nice but I expected more.
11th September, 2017 (last edited: 14th September, 2017)

L'Hommage à L'Homme by Lalique

Stardate 20170908:

A nice modern violet fragrance. There is woodsy oudy accord that keeps violet in check. The pepper gives it additional zest.
I do not detect saffron but it could be buried in with woodsy accord.

Longevity is good and price is great
08th September, 2017

Zola Jesus Taiga X Blackbird by Blackbird

Stardate 20170907:

Dry woods, incense balanced by sweetness of amber.
Very similar to HoM Blackbird.
The notes list Indian incense but I smell frankincense.

Lasts long.
07th September, 2017

Santos Concentrée by Cartier

Stardate 20170907:

I find it meh. Nothing great about it. I liked vintage Santos better. It had character and funk. This one seems too plain. Bad reformulation perhaps.

Not bad at all but nothing great

07th September, 2017

Joy by Jean Patou

Stardate 20170806:

Current version:
A floral of bygone era. Lots of white flower and indoles. Aldehyde. No civet.
Aldehydes are the right amount here (not crazy like No 5).
A great solid juice.
06th September, 2017

Miss Dior Originale (previously Miss Dior) by Christian Dior

Stardate 20170901:

Vintage houndstooth EDT version - Miss Dior:

Moss, galbanum, flowers and powder. That sums it up and yet leaves out a lot.

This is a bitter green leather.
This is a floral.
This is a soft SW powder.

It will cater your many needs. Give it time, you will like it.
01st September, 2017

Ungaro pour L'Homme I by Ungaro

Stardate 20170831:

Polge and Demachy are perhaps the best noses of our times. Polge's style is classic while Demachy is more modern.
They collaborated for Ungaro I and it has the best of both world. The structure is classic aromatic fougere. But the nuances added on to it are amazing.
They managed to make rose darker. A Gothic Black Rose.
The pine is sweeter.
There is a dark brooding undertone, but less Tim Burtonish than Salvador Dali PH.
And then there is a modern musk/ambergris base that Creed most likely copied from for its composition (aventus,spice wood).

Jesus juice if there was one.
31st August, 2017
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Homme de Grès by Grès

Stardate 20170831:

I wish I knew what the main accord is in this. It is shared by Capucci PH (vintage) and is the main "leather" accord of Burberrys for Men (1st version 80s)
Artemesia? Galbanum? Vetiver? Labdanum?Costus? or a mixture of some of them?
This accord, which many call leather, is not something I like. I find it too dry. Burberrys for Men, while a masterpiece,is not in my top 20.

Homme De Gres (and Capucci too) have solved this problem by adding citrus, herbal and amber elements to the composition. The dryness has been balanced out.

It is still available online for $40 and you should get it before inventory runs out.
31st August, 2017

Y by Yves Saint Laurent

Stardate 20170829:

I think the brief for this one must be - "Make us something like Dior Sauvage"
They got what they wanted - A Dior Sauvage wannabe.
The roughness has been toned down, which may not be a good thing for the audience they are targeting. The dry down is softer and shorter.
They could have cloned better fragrances. But Sauvage did make a lot of money.

That this is not a scrubber is the best thing I can say about Y. A house that has made Kouros, M7, Rive Gauche, Jazz should at least make an attempt to make fragrance. Unfortunately, they have given up a long time ago as evident by L'homme line and Kouros Flankers.

Go buy Gucci Guilty Absolute. They are the only ones out there trying.

Edit: I gave neutral rating to Sauvage. I find this better than Sauvage. For consistency - this one gets neutral too. But please don't buy it.
29th August, 2017 (last edited: 30th August, 2017)

Lolita Lempicka Au Masculin by Lolita Lempicka

Stardate 20170829:

Masculine Oriental - vanilla, anise, sweet ambery powder.
Not bad at all. But I have (and prefer) Arpege PH and that makes Lolita redundant.
29th August, 2017

Timbuktu by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Stardate 20170825:

A contradiction of fragrance world. It is light, ethereal, delicate and at the same time brilliant, powerful beast.
As for notes - Vetiver and incense are the main backbone while citrus and fruits provide the illumination.
I have the wave bottle and do not know much about reformulations.
25th August, 2017

Olène by Diptyque

Stardate 20170824:

Smells like a good quality soap. No indoles. No richness. Fabric softner type smell. I will pass. Maybe they need to come out with EDP for this one.
Neutral to thumbs down.
This may be a victim of reformulation. My review is for what is out there now. Seems that vintage juice was better.
24th August, 2017

Moment Suprême by Jean Patou

Stardate 20170822:

I find it dated. A familiar smell used in many personal care products that my grandmother used.
I agree with le mouchoir de monsieur - "This scent is gone, and will never return. If it did, nobody would get it" and that it is a lavendar centric fragrance.

Old Spice copied Moment Supreme, shifting the focus away from florals towards spices. And old spice gave birth to million others. From that perspective Moment Supreme is a masterpiece.
I doubt it would sell well if it was reintroduced.
22nd August, 2017 (last edited: 16th September, 2017)

Woto by Deviline

Stardate 20170822:

Another good one of the days past. There is moss, SW, powder,spices,musk. The style is similar to Pierre Cardin PM (especially later phases). Chanel PM Concentree, Bois de Portugal also have the similar drydown.

Woto is hard to find so get Pierre Cardin PM vintage and you should be 70% happy :)
22nd August, 2017

Genghis Khan by Marc de la Morandiere

Stardate 20170818:

Reformulated EDP version in the old style bottle:

I do not know how different this is from the vintage but AFAIK the EDP in old style bottle is pretty close to original.

I sought this one out cause it is liked by many and is hyped. I must say this is one of the bigger disappointments I have had in this hobby.
Starts out with spices but then a discordant sour note emerges and destroys it. After a while the sourness subsides giving way to spices,patch and some sweet amber.
All in all a pretty average fragrance. Definitely not worth the price.
Neutral to Thumbs down.
18th August, 2017

R by Révillon

Stardate 20170818:

A good cheapie. It has everything - citrus, leather, oriental, powder. Not easy to pull off but R does it. It knows how to balance them all.
Colin Maillard review is how I feel about it.
18th August, 2017

Cabaret Homme by Grès

Stardate 20170817:

If you ever wanted a perfume equivalent of video clip that goes through masculines of late 20th century, look no further.
It has all Drakkar Noir, Cool Water, PRPH , Rive Gauche PH among others.
You get them at different phases of development. I have no idea why it was discontinued as it is bound to have something that pleases you.
Oh well. Get it while it is still available for cheap.
17th August, 2017

Prada Olfactories : Miracle of the Rose by Prada

Stardate 20170817:

A rose is great floral. It is a bit too sweet and it needs to be tempered with something that is earthy. Traditionally it has been Oud, Patchouly, spices.
This is a modern take on rose centric fragrance and the main counterbalance is provided by a plummy tobacco accord. The tobacco accord is very similar to Tom Ford's Tobacco Oud.
Development could be better but that is too much to expect these days.
All in all a good fragrance.
17th August, 2017

Cuir X by La Parfumerie Moderne

Stardate 20170817:

A good modern leather. A leather that smells like real leather. Nothing like BelAmi or K10.
It has similarities to Cuir Ottoman but is less oriental. In later phases it reminds me of Maxims but is much better than Maxims (which I think is over hyped)
The Saffron and Vanilla/Tonka rounds it out well.
A great blended fragrance. A rarity these days
17th August, 2017

Oud Ispahan by Christian Dior

Stardate 20170815:

Synthetic oud with some roses. Well done.
Oud is barnyardy.
Nothing original here but the blending and balance is good. Perhaps a bit too pricey at retail prices.
15th August, 2017

al03 by Biehl Parfumkunstwerke

Stardate 20170814:

A very nice leathery fragrance. Very similar in style to Puredistance M, BelAmi, Moschino PH.
Not as good but they are trying hard and this one is definitely FBW
14th August, 2017 (last edited: 17th August, 2017)

Jacomo de Jacomo Original by Jacomo

Stardate 20170814:

Vintage Blue Label Version:

Yes it is an aromatic fougere.
Yes it has Spices and Patchouli
Yes it is from 80s.

But do not be fooled, it is nothing like typical 80s aromatic fougere.
The blending is exceptional and you get this dark brooding incensey masterpiece.
Smoke without the dryness.

It may be the one that started it all. One can see its influence on Montana, Smalto, Nobile, Salvador Dali PH.
Get it while it is still cheap.
14th August, 2017

Royal Oud by Creed

Stardate 20170812:

Dry dry wood. I don't smell oud. Dry down is a bit better as the sweetness of SW and powder comes through killing the dry woods. But too little too late.
Nothing Royal or sophisticated about it and no oud.
For people who like dry woods this is worth a try.
I will pass.
Neutral to thumbs down.
12th August, 2017

Chevignon by Chevignon

Stardate 20170808:

Used to be poor man's Cosmair Polo.
Now that current Polo has been reformed again (this time for better) and price of Chevignon gone up, I would not seek this out.
If you find one for cheap (under $40) get it else stick to current Polo
09th August, 2017