Perfume Reviews

Reviews by epapsiou

Total Reviews: 205

Blend 30 by Dunhill

Stardate 20170411:

A good aromatic fougere of yesteryears.
Has an added smokiness to it.
More similar to Captain than Tuscany.
Well blended and great, therefore discontinued.

11th April, 2017

Arpège pour Homme by Lanvin

Stardate 20170410:

Iris,spice,vanilla,sandalwood goodness. Had to be discontinued cause it is good.

I someone asks me what is THE Oriental fragrance I would point to this. Not Shalimar.

This is Shalimar Pour Homme but better.I am surprised it was released this century. No wonder it flopped.

Try to get it while you still can.

10th April, 2017

parfums*PARFUMS Series 3 Incense: Avignon by Comme des Garçons

Stardate 20170410:

Reference Frankincense. Beautiful.
10th April, 2017
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NeroUno by Montegrappa

Stardate 20170410:

I love Dunhill Edition. The reformulation has destroyed it. There is nothing like it. Halston Catalyst comes close but no cigar. And Catalyst too has been reformulated.
A good friend of mine did not like it and very generously gave it to me. I fell in love with it almost instantly.
This is a good clone of Edition with something extra up top and nutmeg. I think these addition make it better than Edition (wink).

The clove and spices in Edition make it too dry and spicy. Nutmeg in NeroUno adds the sweetness that balances out cloves.
I would recommend this to Edition lovers. But this is hard to get and is not cheap. Vintage Edition may be a better deal.

One thing that bothers me. If Montegrappa can make it, why on earth can't Dunhill (which has more resources at its disposal). Clearly IFRA is not a valid excuse anymore. I guess CEO needs a bigger private jet.
10th April, 2017

1881 pour Homme by Cerruti

Stardate 20170406:

I got current formulation of this. This is good stuff. Kinda like Lauder for Men. This one may be better than the current formulation of Lauder.
More citrusy than Lauder but has good balance and that animalic accord is present too. Costus was used in Lauder some other wood here.

For the price ($20/100ml) this is a no brainer
06th April, 2017

Brut by Fabergé

Stardate 20170330:

Fabrege Version:
When I was in middle school, my father got promoted to a new role in different part of the country. So when we were moving the main mover honcho was doing the dressing table and he saw my father's bottle of Brut. He did not know cologne and never wore them and so I spritzed some on him. He was happy and had a grin - a weird one.

A few days later when we were unpacking in our new home my father could not find his Brut. It never made it to our new place. My father chalked it up to things-that-go-missing-when-one-moves. I knew better.

To this day, whenever I smell Brut, I think of that episode in my life. I never could wear Brut since then. I recently got a Fabrege bottle for cheap (after Colin Maillard mentioned in one of the vintage threads ) hoping that I would be over it.
But no I still hate it.

But I love Rive Gauche PH - which is Brut minus Vanilla, SW, Ylang and Jasmine.
I think it is the vanilla and Ylang that make this fragrance a scrubber. They don't belong in this structure.
30th March, 2017

Fille en Aiguilles by Serge Lutens

Stardate 20170327:

Incense, spices and sweetness (candied fruit ?).
What is not to like.
But the beauty of this fragrance is its balance. You have to try it to believe it.
These three accords play very nice with each other, making sure everyone is heard. One can isolate them enjoy them on their own. But you can also let them coalesce and smell their union - a rare thing in perfumery.
27th March, 2017

Ruh by Pekji

Stardate 20170324:

Take note perfumers - This is how a saffron should be done.
It is the main player with rose and spice supporting it.
Unlike other reviewers, I dont get much coffee here.
This is a great saffron scent.

24th March, 2017

Eau Mage by Diptyque

Stardate 20170323:

A very nice frag that is destroyed by Ambroxan overload. The Ambrox is cloying and tenacious.
23rd March, 2017

Opôné by Diptyque

Stardate 20170323:

A nice rose wood perfume. Nothing special but nicely done.
23rd March, 2017

Azzaro pour Homme Summer by Azzaro

Stardate 20170321:

A citrusy flanker of the original. Lighter and fresher. They have toned down barbershopiness and amped up freshness to be more palatable to millennials.
Not as good as original but a worthy flanker.
21st March, 2017

Gatsby by Pacoma

Stardate 20170321:

A great amber and honey fragrance with woodsy (including SW) base. A masculine of the bygone era.
A lot like vintage Zino by Davidoff. So much that having both might be redundant.

21st March, 2017

Ambre Doré by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

Stardate 20170320:

Starts out with a great promise - amber and animalic.
But then it starts going downhill into some synthetic plasticy mess after a few hours.
Not bad for first couple hours and so neutral. I'd rather spring for Ambre Sultan.
20th March, 2017
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Tea Rose by Perfumer's Workshop

Stardate 20170309:

A great rose that can be had for cheap. It should be in everyone's wardrobe.
This one has survived reformulation and goes for $10 for 120ml. A perfumery miracle if there was one.
09th March, 2017 (last edited: 21st April, 2017)

Witness by Jacques Bogart

Stardate 20170309:

Cinnamon and Artemisia. My nemesis and I can only take them in small doses.
Bogart does not believe in small doses.

So a thumbs down from me.
If you like these notes do get this fragrance. It is well done and inexpensive - like other bogarts.
09th March, 2017

No. 88 by Czech & Speake

Stardate 20170309:

A decent traditional cologne with some woody twist.
I am not a big cologne guy and this one performs bad so a neutral.

Others here mention good performance. Maybe this one has been reformulated for the worse like the other ones from C&S when they changed suppliers and moved production to UK from Italy.
09th March, 2017

La Rose Jacqueminot by Coty

Stardate 20170308:

A nice classic rose floral.
08th March, 2017

Fleur de Thé Rose Bulgare by Creed

Stardate 20170308:

Rose and marigold. Two accords mixed just right. The green of marigold is the yin to the yang of rose sweetness.
The balance is amazing and that this came from Creed makes it even more stunning.
08th March, 2017

Nombre Noir by Shiseido

Stardate 20170306:

A great rose, patch and something else. Could not figure out what it was till I saw Bavard's review. Carnations from Ho Hang Club.
I can see why people love Nombre Noir. It is a good fragrance to own but not at the current astronomical prices.

Layer HoHangClub with some old rose soliflore and you will have achieved same effect at 1/10th the cost.

Get it if you are the 0.1%

06th March, 2017

Cepes and Tuberose by Aftelier

Stardate 20170301:

I do not get any tuberose or rose.
Do get some cinnamon on top.
And then the heart has this weird smell which overpowers all other notes. Cepes maybe (whatever that is).
I don't like this note(maybe I am overly sensitive to it)


01st March, 2017

Palimpsest by Aftelier

Stardate 20170227:

Challenging. Smells like the concentrated incense "dhoop" and evokes scent memory that are not pleasant.
White Florals with perhaps more indoles than I can handle

Scrubber for me
01st March, 2017

Diva by Ungaro

Stardate 20170226:

Starts almost like nahema but get better very soon. It is a great classic rose and a nice honeyed drydown.
Reminds me of Paris in the heart phase.

When I wore it a few days ago I did not get much rose from it but today it is as Rosey as they get.
27th February, 2017 (last edited: 06th March, 2017)

David Yurman Limited Edition by David Yurman

Stardate 20170227:

A Tuscan Leather clone that can stand on its own. I think this is better done than the original and its clones (La Yuq, AdP Leather, PdM).
It has a nice development that the others lack. Had this used better quality ingredients it could have been the best of the pack.
Starts with rose and greens. Then fruits appear followed by the TL type drydown. I wish the development took longer than the quick 30mins but for price I am not complaining.

At $40 this is a no brainer.
27th February, 2017

Ungaro III by Ungaro

Stardate 20170226:

A fresh male inoffensive generic scent. Avoidable.
27th February, 2017

Rose Absolue by Annick Goutal

Stardate 20170223:

This one starts like a synthetic rose smell of toilet spray/laundry detergent. But then it gets better. Much better. After 30 mins it is a blooming rose bouquet and as it dries down it goes through the various stages of rose bouquet as it decays.
Just avoid first 30 mins and you are good
24th February, 2017

Rose Splendide by Annick Goutal

Stardate 20170223:

This starts nice with rose and citrus and some milk/vanilla. But then the top note fades and it becomes linear with rose almost gone.
Not bad but the other one - Rose Absolute is better.
24th February, 2017

Rose Opulente by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

Stardate 20170217:

I have no idea who would buy this. Liquid hand soaps use better rose than this.
Synthetic, plastic rose

17th February, 2017

Une Rose by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Stardate 20170217:

A refreshing twist on the current oud-rose trend. The sweetness of rose is contrasted with earthy and dirty vetiver and "truffle accord".

Well-blended and easily wearable. Recommended
17th February, 2017

Mélodie de L'Amour by Parfums Dusita

Stardate 20170216:

Old school indolic white floral.
Reminds me of old feminine by Patou. Maybe 1000.
Also similar to one of the Amouges I tried at Bergdorf: Gold or 25.

For folks who love vintage indolic white flower frags this is great. I am not a big fan of that style.
17th February, 2017

La Douceur de Siam by Parfums Dusita

Stardate 20170216:

A very nice rose.Much like the current rose-oud ones . Ex-Idolo , Tiziana Rose, Montale.
Sure it may have no oud but the heft and complexity is made up by SW,Amber and spices.
I like this one
Idolo 33>this>Terenzi
17th February, 2017