Perfume Reviews

Reviews by epapsiou

Total Reviews: 212

Patrick by Fragrances of Ireland

Stardate 20170502;

Clean, soapy and inexpensive. Nothing to dislike here. Has an aromatic Fougere structure but light touches.
Does smell a bit like Irish Spring as drseid pointed out.
Drydown is good.
For the price a thumbs up.
02nd May, 2017

D600 by Carner Barcelona

Stardate 20170502:

A lightly spiced gourmandy cologne.
This is a style that was introduced to me by Yohji Homme and then APOM by MFK. D600 lies somewhere between these two but is not better than either.
Worth as sniff but not FBW for me.
02nd May, 2017

Rima XI by Carner Barcelona

Stardate 20170428:

This one starts good. I get something boozy akin to Lubin Idole (my fav). But the magic disappears in 30 seconds and all I get is the smell of buttered popcorn in movie theatre. That is a really unpleasant smell. Thankfully that butter popcorn accord goes away after 45 mins and what you are left with is a badly reformulated baldessarini dry down.
The weird thing about this fragrance is that it has borrowed heavily from 2 of my all time favourites ( Idole and baldessarini) and has done a piss poor job.
Please avoid this and get the other 2.
28th April, 2017
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Rose & Dragon by Carner Barcelona

Stardate 20170427:

This one is fun. Starts amazing. Rose plus some greens. Which it turns out is strawberry note. Rose is very mischievous, overpowering and floral and it needs someone to ground it. Oud,Patch, Woods have been the stoic ones in the relationship. Strawberry is a recent lover and does work well.
Unfortunately, the strawberry note here is the cheap artificial one (candy, shampoo) and so after 10 minutes it just drags the whole thing down. Making it a scrubber.
But wait couple of hour and that artificial note goes away giving way to some dirty green wood and late on some oudy note. This is the best part of this fragrance.
27th April, 2017

Casamorati 1888 Lira by Xerjoff

Stardate 20170427:

Xerjoff has been a house that I always wanted to like. The bottles are great and I like their names. Unfortunately, all the Xerjoffs I have tried have been meh.
Lira is no different. Smells like my favourite chocolate Ganache cake that I used to get from Mangia Bakery in midtown Manhattan. And like the cake, Lira disappears quickly.
I would save the money and get the cake.
27th April, 2017

Tardes by Carner Barcelona

Stardate 20170425:

The gourmand floral opening that worked very well for me.
Luca once mentioned that Habanita was great until he read the notes and realized it is vanilla and vetiver. Now all he gets is those 2 notes and not the combined accord.
I suffer the same fate with Tardes an the likes - once I could smell the olafactory symphony, but now all I get is cherry pie and shampoo. If I squint (and during drydown) I can still get that accord. But the magic is gone.
Still a mild thumbs up for me.
26th April, 2017

El Born by Carner Barcelona

Stardate 20170425:

Don't like this one. Has similar accords as one of the Afteliers. Fig one perhaps. Just dislike it. Rotten fruits up top and too dry and dusty later on.
I think fig is not for me.
26th April, 2017

Blend 30 by Dunhill

Stardate 20170411:

A good aromatic fougere of yesteryears.
Has an added smokiness to it.
More similar to Captain than Tuscany.
Well blended and great, therefore discontinued.

11th April, 2017

Arpège pour Homme by Lanvin

Stardate 20170410:

Iris,spice,vanilla,sandalwood goodness. Had to be discontinued cause it is good.

I someone asks me what is THE Oriental fragrance I would point to this. Not Shalimar.

This is Shalimar Pour Homme but better.I am surprised it was released this century. No wonder it flopped.

Try to get it while you still can.

10th April, 2017

parfums*PARFUMS Series 3 Incense: Avignon by Comme des Garçons

Stardate 20170410:

Reference Frankincense. Beautiful.
10th April, 2017

NeroUno by Montegrappa

Stardate 20170410:

I love Dunhill Edition. The reformulation has destroyed it. There is nothing like it. Halston Catalyst comes close but no cigar. And Catalyst too has been reformulated.
A good friend of mine did not like it and very generously gave it to me. I fell in love with it almost instantly.
This is a good clone of Edition with something extra up top and nutmeg. I think these addition make it better than Edition (wink).

The clove and spices in Edition make it too dry and spicy. Nutmeg in NeroUno adds the sweetness that balances out cloves.
I would recommend this to Edition lovers. But this is hard to get and is not cheap. Vintage Edition may be a better deal.

One thing that bothers me. If Montegrappa can make it, why on earth can't Dunhill (which has more resources at its disposal). Clearly IFRA is not a valid excuse anymore. I guess CEO needs a bigger private jet.
10th April, 2017

1881 pour Homme by Cerruti

Stardate 20170406:

I got current formulation of this. This is good stuff. Kinda like Lauder for Men. This one may be better than the current formulation of Lauder.
More citrusy than Lauder but has good balance and that animalic accord is present too. Costus was used in Lauder some other wood here.

For the price ($20/100ml) this is a no brainer
06th April, 2017

Brut by Fabergé

Stardate 20170330:

Fabrege Version:
When I was in middle school, my father got promoted to a new role in different part of the country. So when we were moving the main mover honcho was doing the dressing table and he saw my father's bottle of Brut. He did not know cologne and never wore them and so I spritzed some on him. He was happy and had a grin - a weird one.

A few days later when we were unpacking in our new home my father could not find his Brut. It never made it to our new place. My father chalked it up to things-that-go-missing-when-one-moves. I knew better.

To this day, whenever I smell Brut, I think of that episode in my life. I never could wear Brut since then. I recently got a Fabrege bottle for cheap (after Colin Maillard mentioned in one of the vintage threads ) hoping that I would be over it.
But no I still hate it.

But I love Rive Gauche PH - which is Brut minus Vanilla, SW, Ylang and Jasmine.
I think it is the vanilla and Ylang that make this fragrance a scrubber. They don't belong in this structure.
30th March, 2017
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Fille en Aiguilles by Serge Lutens

Stardate 20170327:

Incense, spices and sweetness (candied fruit ?).
What is not to like.
But the beauty of this fragrance is its balance. You have to try it to believe it.
These three accords play very nice with each other, making sure everyone is heard. One can isolate them enjoy them on their own. But you can also let them coalesce and smell their union - a rare thing in perfumery.
27th March, 2017

Ruh by Pekji

Stardate 20170324:

Take note perfumers - This is how a saffron should be done.
It is the main player with rose and spice supporting it.
Unlike other reviewers, I dont get much coffee here.
This is a great saffron scent.

24th March, 2017

Eau Mage by Diptyque

Stardate 20170323:

A very nice frag that is destroyed by Ambroxan overload. The Ambrox is cloying and tenacious.
23rd March, 2017

Opôné by Diptyque

Stardate 20170323:

A nice rose wood perfume. Nothing special but nicely done.
23rd March, 2017

Azzaro pour Homme Summer by Azzaro

Stardate 20170321:

A citrusy flanker of the original. Lighter and fresher. They have toned down barbershopiness and amped up freshness to be more palatable to millennials.
Not as good as original but a worthy flanker.
21st March, 2017

Gatsby by Pacoma

Stardate 20170321:

A great amber and honey fragrance with woodsy (including SW) base. A masculine of the bygone era.
A lot like vintage Zino by Davidoff. So much that having both might be redundant.

21st March, 2017

Ambre Doré by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

Stardate 20170320:

Starts out with a great promise - amber and animalic.
But then it starts going downhill into some synthetic plasticy mess after a few hours.
Not bad for first couple hours and so neutral. I'd rather spring for Ambre Sultan.
20th March, 2017

Tea Rose by Perfumer's Workshop

Stardate 20170309:

A great rose that can be had for cheap. It should be in everyone's wardrobe.
This one has survived reformulation and goes for $10 for 120ml. A perfumery miracle if there was one.
09th March, 2017 (last edited: 21st April, 2017)

Witness by Jacques Bogart

Stardate 20170309:

Cinnamon and Artemisia. My nemesis and I can only take them in small doses.
Bogart does not believe in small doses.

So a thumbs down from me.
If you like these notes do get this fragrance. It is well done and inexpensive - like other bogarts.
09th March, 2017

No. 88 by Czech & Speake

Stardate 20170309:

A decent traditional cologne with some woody twist.
I am not a big cologne guy and this one performs bad so a neutral.

Others here mention good performance. Maybe this one has been reformulated for the worse like the other ones from C&S when they changed suppliers and moved production to UK from Italy.
09th March, 2017

La Rose Jacqueminot by Coty

Stardate 20170308:

A nice classic rose floral.
08th March, 2017

Fleur de Thé Rose Bulgare by Creed

Stardate 20170308:

Rose and marigold. Two accords mixed just right. The green of marigold is the yin to the yang of rose sweetness.
The balance is amazing and that this came from Creed makes it even more stunning.
08th March, 2017

Nombre Noir by Shiseido

Stardate 20170306:

A great rose, patch and something else. Could not figure out what it was till I saw Bavard's review. Carnations from Ho Hang Club.
I can see why people love Nombre Noir. It is a good fragrance to own but not at the current astronomical prices.

Layer HoHangClub with some old rose soliflore and you will have achieved same effect at 1/10th the cost.

Get it if you are the 0.1%

06th March, 2017

Cepes and Tuberose by Aftelier

Stardate 20170301:

I do not get any tuberose or rose.
Do get some cinnamon on top.
And then the heart has this weird smell which overpowers all other notes. Cepes maybe (whatever that is).
I don't like this note(maybe I am overly sensitive to it)


01st March, 2017

Palimpsest by Aftelier

Stardate 20170227:

Challenging. Smells like the concentrated incense "dhoop" and evokes scent memory that are not pleasant.
White Florals with perhaps more indoles than I can handle

Scrubber for me
01st March, 2017

Diva by Ungaro

Stardate 20170226:

Starts almost like nahema but get better very soon. It is a great classic rose and a nice honeyed drydown.
Reminds me of Paris in the heart phase.

When I wore it a few days ago I did not get much rose from it but today it is as Rosey as they get.
27th February, 2017 (last edited: 06th March, 2017)

David Yurman Limited Edition by David Yurman

Stardate 20170227:

A Tuscan Leather clone that can stand on its own. I think this is better done than the original and its clones (La Yuq, AdP Leather, PdM).
It has a nice development that the others lack. Had this used better quality ingredients it could have been the best of the pack.
Starts with rose and greens. Then fruits appear followed by the TL type drydown. I wish the development took longer than the quick 30mins but for price I am not complaining.

At $40 this is a no brainer.
27th February, 2017