Perfume Reviews

Reviews by epapsiou

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Total Reviews: 431

The Vintage Cities: Paris 1948 by 4160 Tuesdays

Stardate 20180718:

Rosy peachy chypre. I like rose and dislike peach. So meh.
18th July, 2018

Signature : Oud Wood & Dark Vanilla by Axe / Lynx

Stardate 20180718:

A nice woody fragrance with vanilla. The oud here is synth woody notes that are used in many "oudy" niche.
Don't get me wrong, this is not a work of art but is better than most of the "oud" fragrances out there.
And at $5 definitely the best bang for your buck 'oud'.
18th July, 2018

Messe de Minuit by Etro

Stardate 20180717:

Musty stale cellar that had seen incense eons ago.
17th July, 2018
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Lady Rose Lion (Monkey Unicorn) by 4160 Tuesdays

Stardate 20180711:

Peach stale rose. Not the kind I like but it is nicely done. I can see people liking it. Classic style similar to that Doe in Snow but unfortunately not for me. Peach is not for me.
Thumbs up for composition.
11th July, 2018

The Dark Heart of Old Havana by 4160 Tuesdays

Stardate 20180708:

Never been to Havana but I doubt heart (dark or otherwise) of anything smells like this.
Starts with gag inducing peachy sweet accord. And, fortunately, gets better. But too little too late. Stays cloying for a long time.
I got no tobacco/cigar/ash here but that maybe because my senses were still recovering and won't be trying again.
09th July, 2018

Orca by House of Matriarch

Stardate 20180706:

Incense,spices (cumin mostly) and woods. A flanker for Blackbird I guess cause similar in style. There is some salt (probably ambergris)
Not bad but nothing great here.
06th July, 2018

Arsène Lupin Dandy by Guerlain

Stardate 20180705:

Arsene Lupin (Lopin) is a fictional "gentleman" thief extraordinaire. Brought to life in early 1900s by a French author Maurice Leblanc, Lupin goes on to have great adventures and even had a cross over with Sherlock Holmes.
The two perfumes Dandy and Voyou are an homage to this fictional thief. I assume that Dandy is what JPG thought Lupin wears when moving as a gentleman in high society and Voyou when he is stealing :).
Arsene Lupin Dandy like its namesake is a master of disguise. Starts as a bitter green aromatic - galbanum,cardamon, cumin/incense.
Then it moves on to a "dandy" phase - leather,patchouli, florals and olibanum.
Finally it settles down to a powdery, smoky woodsy iris.

I think this is influenced by Habit Rouge and Heritage. Perhaps a formula that did not make it in the end for either. In any case, a great fragrance.




05th July, 2018

Vétiver Dry by Carven

Stardate 20180703:

First things first - This is not a dry fragrance and this is not a vetiver fragrance.

This is a cross between aromatic fougere and Eau de Cologne. Taking best from both worlds.
Lavendar, citrus, hint of vetiver, moss and some italian style cologne herbs. You can smell both Azzaro and 4711 in here.
The only issue I have with this is the longevity. It is more fleeting than traditional EDC. But for the first hour or so this is simply a masterpiece
03rd July, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Nelly Hachem-Ruiz by IFF

Stardate 20180701:

Simple Iris vanilla. Nothing more.
01st July, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Jean-Christophe Herault by IFF

Stardate20180628:

Starts with a nice booze. Note says rum I get Cognac. There is some sweet citrus (orange according to the notes). The booze accord dies soon and you are left with sweet , slight citrus fruity (in a good way) candy with some musk. I like this and I think it can be made into something nice along the lines of Idole
28th June, 2018

Nomade by Chloé

Stardate 20180627:

A floral in the mold of vintage Leau Issey. Freesia and florals.
The top has a guava accord which I really like.
Develops very well into a spicy woody skin scent.
Great longevity.
Best release this year imo.
27th June, 2018 (last edited: 28th June, 2018)

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Caroline Dumur by IFF

Stardate 20180626:

Starts with a blast of peppers. Nice strong but not overpowering. Soon develops into a soft floral with subtle pepper background. I get Iris and some orange blossoms. Maybe some white musk.
I like it
27th June, 2018

Russian Oud by Areej le Doré

Stardate 20180626:

Nice inoffensive long lasting oud-musk fragrance.
It starts with blast of good cacao and oud.
Leather and musk make appearance after 30 mins.
The labdanum appear after 10 hours as the oud fades.The musk is the dominant accord at later stages.
I cannot find any fault with this except that I was expecting more from Russian Adam.
I have smelled similar stuff from other houses (Al Harmain - Obsessive Oud and to some extent Rania's Oud Assam) and was hoping this to be at next level. It is not.

Good fragrance but for hype and price - a pass.

Disclaimer: Not an Oudh expert or a good nose so might be missing nuances others are getting.
26th June, 2018 (last edited: 29th June, 2018)
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Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Domitille Michalon Bertier by IFF

Stardate 20180626:

Generic Amber Vanilla. Nothing to write here. No tobacco or civet for me.
Not bad but nothing original.
26th June, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Loc Dong by IFF

Stardate 20180614:


Nice peachy floral.Has that Auphorie Miyako vibe. Not as good. Linear.
I can see this being made into something special. Needs some thing more (oakmoss would be perfect) on top and maybe sw in the base.
25th June, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Julien Rasquinet by IFF

Stardate 20180622:

Amazing top. Hard to pinpoint what it is. Sweet Patchouli with some rose. Maybe Myrrh is the sweetness.
This one evolves fast. Going at lightspeed. Julien took the 7 minute thing very seriously it seems - a nerd.
The evolution goes through a smoky peppery zone(gunflint or whatever they call it in the description) and ends with some sort of sour musk.
I like it. But after 10 min it does not change and stays sour musk till you scrub it of.
25th June, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Dominique Ropion by IFF

Stardate 20180620:

Hard to pin point the notes for me. Has some of the Timbuktu character. Papyrus, a fruit that I know but can't remember. Cypriol. A bit linear. Meh
25th June, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Sophie Labbé by IFF

Stardate 20180620:

Starts bitter green with pepper. Maybe galbanum. Turns into nice cologne. Citrusy without neroli.
25th June, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Anne Flipo by IFF

Stardate 20180620:

Herbal, leathery , mossy. Reminds me of Heeley Cuir Pleine and the Or Black. In a few minutes the leathery herbal aspect go away and a sweet sour clovey lactonic sort of fragrance remains . A promising one but needs more work
25th June, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Bruno Jovanovic by IFF

Stardate 20180622:

Great rose with some spice. Not sure what it is. It is slight minty, anisic. A POAL like spice but not patch or clove. Maybe one of their captives.
The musk and cream shows up to later.
I like this one but that may be because I love roses.
The Fleur de Peau by diptyque uses something similar (rosey musk)
It lasts long and I think it is a worth POAL (current formulation)replaceement in the later stages.

There are much better roses out there like poal, fleur, voleur etc but this one is a good starting point.
25th June, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Alexis Dadier by IFF

Stardate 20180625:

There is this Indian desert called Kheer. basically a rice pudding which generally is garnished with Cardamom, Pistachio/Almonds and other nuts.
What Alexis did is recreated a good Kheer.
No development but this is one of the best use of cardamom. The only use of cardamom that I approve (FWIW).
25th June, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Juliette Karagueuzoglou by IFF

Stardate 20180625:

I am not a big fan of cacao in perfumery cause most perfumers don't know how to use this note. Most of them end up with strong coconut-fig accord instead of real cacao.
I only know of two who got it right - Juliette and Sarah of 4160. I guess ladies know their chocolate :).

This one is cacao and some woods (cedar mostly).
Nicely done but lacks development.
25th June, 2018

Captured By Candlelight by 4160 Tuesdays

Stardate 20180617:

Starts with sweet bubblegum and some incense. Maybe the snuffwd out candle Accord.
Morphs into sweet toffee, woods and rum.
Like it
20th June, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Epicene Gamma / Nicolas Beaulieu by IFF

Stardate 20180614:

Starts off like Italian Eau de Colgne. Good quality and has something more that makes it really good. Geranium maybe or that Gamma thingy.
I get a lot of citrus here. Citrus that lasts for hours.
This one would make a great addition to Acqua de Parma Colonia line.

Good stuff
14th June, 2018

Time to Draw the Raffle Numbers by 4160 Tuesdays

Stardate 20180612:

I do not like Cocoa. This one has cocoa. Tons of it. I think pyramid is wrong. There is no coffee.
When cocoa dies down you get ash tray.
And there is no marmalade here. The burnt stale toast has some Vegemite on it.
I do not like vegemite. And I do not like cocoa.
Pass


13th June, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Fanny Bal by IFF

Stardate 20180612:

Gag inducing top. If I was not late for work I would have scrubbed it off. Synth Choco Hazelnut. Really bad.
But within 10 minutes that stench dissipates and all you get is text book amber and some ylang.
Really boring. It seems some AC from IFF were just slapped together.
Monkey on typewriter would do better

7 Minute Review:

Since these were meant to be 7 minute fragrances, I have revised it a bit.
Went really easy on the spray. Much more bearable. The development happens in 10 min from choco hazelnut to amber. Not bad if you underapply and only limit it to 10 mins
12th June, 2018 (last edited: 25th June, 2018)

Up the Apples & Pears by 4160 Tuesdays

Stardate 20180612:

A quintessential 4160 Tuesday. Has that Blue Raspberry note and white musk. Some vanilla/cream. Don't get any beer, gin, rollups, bread,pear and whatever else Sarah thought looks nice on the pyramid.
I like it
12th June, 2018

Bergamot, Jasmine & Labdanum by Dame Perfumery

Stardate 20180606:

The moment I sprayed this I knew this is something special. It has the vibe of old school well done fragrances.
Starts with bergamont and something sweet (probably labdanum). Mids get a bit floral. Can't pick out Jasmine per session but I guess that must be the floral I smell.
Drydown is floral musky sweet. Lasts long. Develops well.
My first from Dame and I am impressed
11th June, 2018

Lacoste Eau de Sport by Lacoste

Stardate 20180608:

Oh how I pined for this. For 2 years. And when I finally got to try it, it was underwhelming. Perhaps my longing and anticipation set the bar too high for Kerleo.

A traditional cuminy fougere. Eau Hermes came to mind when I applied this. More wearable and less skanky than Hermes. I am not a cumin fan (do like it in food just not in my fragrances). This one is a pass at the prices it goes for.

:(


08th June, 2018

Black Rose Oud by Trish McEvoy

Stardate 20180606:

Starts out with nice Jammy rose, some woods and cumin (perhaps it is the 'incense' AC they use)
But then very soon, a fruity shampoo accord takes over that kills the buzz.
Shampoo never really leaves but gets muted and the pepper +cumin become prominent.
Wish they did not went overboard with fruity florals.

Oh and there is no oud here - real or synthetic.

A pass

What is interesting is that they do have a decent Rose Oud - Gold 9. Simple and done right. With some Amber. They should get rid of Black Rose Oud or replace the content of the bottle with Gold 9.
06th June, 2018