Perfume Reviews

Reviews by epapsiou

Total Reviews: 379

Rose of No Man's Land by Byredo

Stardate 20180316:

I suppose if you are an injured soldier stuck in battlefield, nothing would smell as sweet as a red cross nurse.
Byredo, tried to create that smell and I think did a good job of it. Rose, soft white florals (no indoles), musk and sweet candy(amber?). I have small complains (too sweet, not dirty enough, little development) but on the whole a nice fragrance. Leans feminine.

And here is the excerpt from the original poem ('s_Land) :

It's the one red rose the soldier knows,
It's the work of the Master's hand;
Mid the War's great curse, Stands the Red Cross Nurse,
She's the rose of No Man's Land.
16th March, 2018

Balenciaga pour Homme by Balenciaga

Stardate 20180309:

I really like this fragrance. Powerhouse masculine. Seems loud but is not. The Patchouli Honey and Spices up top give it the barbershop vibe.
The Amber and Oud!? in the drydown make it sophisticated and office safe.
There are a few in this category - Davidoff, Vermeil but this is the best of them (most of the days)

09th March, 2018

Safari Extreme by Abdul Samad Al Qurashi

Stardate 20180307:

Musky floral woody leather.
All three parts are well done.
The florals are in the style of old school feminine florals.
The Leather is the Tuscan Leather seudral kind.
And the musk is white synthetic one.
The base is woody with synth oud notes.
All of this sounds common place but the blending is where the fragrance shines.
The transition is fluid and performance nuclear.
FBW for me but sampling is recommended before buying

07th March, 2018
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Givenchy III by Givenchy

Stardate 20180504:

Vintage Version:
Reference Chypre. More wearable than Coty's 1980s version.
The tradition chypre with bergamont (or other hesperides) suffer from the fickle nature of the citruses. The green from Galbanum makes the top linger longer and makes the chypre structure last longer.
A must try for Chypre lovers.
05th March, 2018

Van Cleef & Arpels pour Homme by Van Cleef & Arpels

Stardate 20180305:

Too soapy. Cloyingly so. Good performance.
Now there is a Concentree version of this and despite the name it is more balanced and muted.
If you have an option,get the concentree version. Has all the notes and powerhouse-ness of the original and is wearable.

05th March, 2018

Men's Classic by Muelhens

Stardate 20180303:

Polo clone. A good one at that.
Not the Luxury Product version but a clone of the Cosmair version.
There are differences - this is not in your face powerhouse. The base is more subtle and sweeter.

Good stuff.
03rd March, 2018

J Casanova pour Homme by J Casanova

Stardate 20180302:

Proteo Profumi made a great fragrance called Pandora Pour Homme and was branded under J Casanova. It did not do well so they rebranded it a few years later as Mediterraneum.
Same fragrance and same bottle (different color cap - Maroon vs Blue)
Coming to fragrance - a masterpiece. This one links Balenciaga PH to YSL M7.
They both had oud (synthetic or otherwise) and so I am assuming it has some too.
It is an orientalish fougerish fragrance.
02nd March, 2018

Mediterraneum by Versace

Stardate 20180302:

Proteo Profumi made a great fragrance called Pandora Pour Homme and was branded under J Casanova. It did not do well so they rebranded it a few years later as Mediterraneum.
Same fragrance and same bottle (different color cap - Maroon vs Blue)
Coming to fragrance - a masterpiece. This one links Balenciaga PH to YSL M7.
They both had oud (synthetic or otherwise) and so I am assuming it has some too.
It is an orientalish fougerish fragrance.
02nd March, 2018

Au Delà Narcisse by Bruno Fazzolari

Stardate 20180223:

Simply amazing classical white floral. Not too sweet nor too indolic. A balance not many have struck.
People compare it to Chanel but I think it is way better than any Chanel out there right now. Maybe we can find better floral s in vintage realm but one has to look hard.
23rd February, 2018

Promise by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Stardate 20180223:

Starts out with crisp apple and spicy roses. Not Portrait of Lady kind of spice but more sour.
Unfortunately this sourness takes over soon and drowns the roses. I think Ropion tried to do another POAL with this but went too far with spices and cypriol. The composition is unbalanced. There are a few moments when it wafts to my nose that I get a glimpse of what he was trying, but unfortunately he fails.
Still a good fragrance for those who can look past the weird sourness.
23rd February, 2018

Clubman by Pinaud

Stardate 20180219:

I got this cause everyone raves about it and cause I loved Special reserve. This is actually a scrubber. The idea is nice but the composition has a skunky smell that just makes it horrible. Wearing it today and everyone here hates it. Need to take another shower to get this off.
Maybe reformulation killed it. Threw it in the toilet and now everyone is upset cause it is stinking up the house
Avoid this and get the Special reserve instead.
19th February, 2018

Versailles pour Homme by Jean Desprez

Stardate 20190214:

It is well liked by vintage folks and I had high hopes. Alas, a big disappointment. Too many notes resulting in a confused composition that goes nowhere.
Performance is weak too.
Musty, dusty and spicy.
14th February, 2018

Madras Pour Homme by Myrurgia

Stardate 20160916:

This fragrance reminds me of Madras. I was there when it was still called Madras. Chennai just does not cut it.
An air-conditioned office of a civil servant with lots of old paper files and smell of lunch that was finished an hour ago. A weird description but anyone who has been there would know.
For those who have not been there (most of us here I presume): it is similar to vintage Boss 1 - a little less sweeter and more spicier. Just a tad more. I think this is better than Boss 1 and should be tried by Boss lovers.

Comparing vintages I think are similar.
Madras > Boss 1 > Globe
07th February, 2018
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Macho by Fabergé

Stardate 20180206:

A better vintage Brut.
Lack of Jasmine helps.
While it is masculine, it is not macho. It is delicate aromatic fougere.
Brut fans should try it.
And Brut haters should too cause it may lack what you do not like about Brut.
06th February, 2018

Un Homme by Charles Jourdan

Stardate 20180131:

-Aromatic Fougere.
-Great Classic Masculine
-Therefore discontinue
Checks all of those boxes. There is nothing more I can add except that among the old aromatic fougere gang, this is closest to Blend30.
The dusty-mossy-herbs and the leather brings it close to Blend 30 but there is Tuscany style Italian brightness that gives it a unique style.

Great and FBW

01st February, 2018 (last edited: 05th February, 2018)

Lanvin for Men by Lanvin

Stardate 20180201:

It has something for everyone - lavendar, aromatics and moss for fougere folks, Labdanum moss citrus for chypre folks and florals for , well, floral folks. And some musk, indole and (maybe) civet with SW for us old school farts.
But it is the blending that makes this very unique. Almost a masculine dirty floral. Very similar to Insense in character.

01st February, 2018

Kiehl's Original Musk by Kiehl's

Stardate 20180201:

Has been said a million times but I shall repeat it - Reference Musk that has withstood the vagaries of reformulations and price gouging.
MKK lovers should get this blind.
MKK haters should get this to understand the appeal behind MKK

FBW in all iterations
01st February, 2018

R de Capucci by Roberto Capucci

Stardate 20180125:

House of Capucci is not talked about at basenotes or elsewhere. A shame cause they made good stuff.
Capucci PH (both versions), Punjab, Yendi and R de Capucci are all great fragrances and it is unfortunate that they get little airtime. Perhaps because they are discontinued and Italian.
R de Capucci is a fougerish leatherish chypre. The florals make up for the lack of lavender.
Capucci PH and R de Capucci share the leatherish chyprish aspect. But R is the happier, prettier, brighter and more wearable of the two siblings.
The florals blend well with citrus, moss and amber giving it a nice glow.
And then there is the Rose.
Get it while you can. A masterpiece.

25th January, 2018

Iquitos by Alain Delon

Stardate 20180123:

This stuff is potent. BE careful. Seems benign but 4 sprays today and the whole office is noticing. Strange cause reviews said this has poor performance. My guess is this is one of those which gets anosmic on people very soon.

The fragrance is dark and floral. Like indian rose incense. The smell of incense stick before you burn them. The smell of box that is left behind.
Has a leathery aspect to it and some aldehydes. Unlike most roses, it is not sweet.
A very unique fragrance and deserves the hype. Just not my cup of tea.
24th January, 2018

Pinrose by Pinrose

Stardate 20180123:

A Portrait of a Lady clone. Not bad at all. Lacks the depth but will do in a pinch.
23rd January, 2018

Al Widad Blend by Abdul Samad Al Qurashi

Stardate 20180123:
My expereince with oil blend has been rather limited and I assumed that oils are generally woodsy, dense and serious. Not so wit Al widad. It is more "sporty" and sparkly. Carnations and Amber bring out a freshie vibe.

Has a Globe Rochas type character. Nice
23rd January, 2018

Killer Rose by 4160 Tuesdays

Stardate 20180116:

Start is screechy but moves on to Tocade+Spices very soon. Then the tocade-ness goes down and the fragrance settles in to a greenish smoky rose. Smoke is perhaps from cloves and or incense.
A nice rose.
16th January, 2018

Crimes of Passion: Raw Silk and Red Roses by 4160 Tuesdays

stardate 20170314:
I love this Silky and Red Rose.It has retro vibe+new creed base. Works well. FB worthy for sure. Rose+Musk+Amergris - synthetics well done
16th January, 2018

Byblos Sandalo by Byblos

Stardate 20180113:

I like the aromachemical they use here for Sandalwood. I have seen that before with Art of Shaving Sandalwood and incense sticks. It is the woodier rendition of SW - woods rather than oil.
The Prosaro line uses the same aromachemical for its sandalwood after shave (which is really good).
Byblos also has woody-spiciness in its base.

If you like AoS you are in for a treat. This one is much much better.

14th January, 2018

Proust Perfumes : Oriane by 4160 Tuesdays

Stardate 20180110:

This is from Proust collection as is Swann. I wonder why Proust. Is it because it is more "cereberal" or because these frags are Remembrance of things past?
In any case a beautiful ethereal floral. And it is NOT all natural. There are synthetics here in perfect harmony.
This one also has the 4160 signaturish Blue Raspberry Jolly Rancher note but here it is muted and works very well.Balances out the florals
In a perfect world, I would have a restaurant in Sweden and my girl would wear this to bed.
10th January, 2018

Fendi Uomo by Fendi

Stardate 20180105:

Old style Italian. Unfortunately it has more cumin that I like. Reminds me of Declaration but this is better made.
Pass for me
06th January, 2018

Halston Man Amber by Halston

Stardate 20180105:

Ambery, Synth Oud , Myrrh, spices. Not bad. Would have been better without the synth Oud and Myrrh. A bit too synthetic smelling for my taste.
As others have mentioned already, linear and ok performance.
Not bad for the price.
06th January, 2018

Bhodi Language by 4160 Tuesdays

Stardate 20180104:

Bodhi Tree is the Peepal tree underneath which Gautam Buddha meditated and attained enlightenment.
Buddhawood listed in the notes pyramid is, most likely, Peepal ,which belongs to fig family.
I do get fig here and it is horrible just like its twin Buddhabox.

This fragrance has no redeeming quality and is a shame that it was named after something so sacred.

Thumbs down all the way

05th January, 2018

White Rose & Lemon Leaves by Jo Loves...

Stardate 20180103:

As the name suggests, this is a rose+citrus fragrance. Sounds weird but it is done well. The lemon is not overpowering and is just supporting the blast of synthetic rose.
But after sometime, the floral,amber and the spices (clove maybe as is listed on the pyramid ) come through and give the composition the heft it needs.
Amouage Homage Attar should learn a few things from this compositon.
This is my first Jo Love. I think I may like this house.

03rd January, 2018

Lemon Sherbet by 4160 Tuesdays

Stardate 20170103:

Vanilla+Lemon. Musk later on.
I don't think Sarah has made real Lemon Sherbet ;).

Lemon Meringue Pie is what this should have been named.

Neutral to Thumbs up
03rd January, 2018