Perfume Reviews

Reviews by epapsiou

Total Reviews: 464

Escada Homme by Escada

Stardate 20190409:

An old school masculine. A copy of Chanel PM Concentree (vintage version).

Citrus+Lavendar with powder (SW/Vanilla)
Nothing new. Not bad a t all but for the price pass.
09th April, 2019

Santal 33 by Le Labo

Stardate 20190318:

This is shite.
Not sure why it became NYC's favourite. Violet/Iris with musk and powder. Very generic TJMaxx fragrance at astronomical price. Nothing redeeming about it.
18th March, 2019

Macassar by Rochas

Stardate 20190304:

A niche version of Bogart OMS. OMS is sharper and bitter. Galbanum in OMS is the culprit. Macassar is mellower, I guess they replaced galbanum with artemisia but I do smell some galbanum in Macassar.
Macassar has better development and drydown.
The bitterness in Macassar comes from "leather" vs Galbanum of OMS.

Both were released in 1980 and had the same perfumer. I guess Roger Pellegrino was just being lazy :)

I am not a fan of this or OMS.

04th March, 2019
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Kipling by Weil

Stardate 20190215:

Old school powerhouse. Piney, woody, smoky, herbal, leathery.
Will remind you of Quorum, Smalto, Trussadi Uomo. This one is not as dry as Trussadi or Leonard, which makes it better in my books.

If you are a fan of this style go for it. For the price it is going for, I will stick with vintage Quorum.

15th February, 2019

Sova by Slumberhouse

Stardate 20190131:

A different gourmand perfume but then that is expected from Slumberhouse.
It has the same syrupy resins that Josh loves but there are savory aspects to this Gourmand. Folks have compared it to Indian curry and they are right.
The tradition punjabi mango pickle use mustard oil, onion seeds and anise as preservative to pickle green unripe mango. The savory aroma of Sova is very similar to this pickle.
Josh has made sure to dial this down just right to keep this non pungent.
A great effort. I just can't wear this pickle :)
31st January, 2019

Cuir / Cuir de Russie by Piver

Stardate 20190130:
Vintage Version:
A nice musky/animalic sweet top. Pyramid says honey but I get something more.
Then it develops to birchy floral goodness. I like it more wearable than Chanel's version.

30th January, 2019

Van Gils by Van Gils

Stardate 20190128:

Old school masculine. Sits somewhere between Coriolon and GFF in style.
It has Lavender too (not listed in pyramid).
The top is powerhouse aromatic-fougerish but it settles fast and goes through a Coriolan phase drying down to GFF base.
28th January, 2019

Ricci Club by Nina Ricci

Stardate 20190118:

Very similar to vintage Baldessarini. But better.
Orange amber in the later phase
18th January, 2019

Floralie by Creed

Stardate 20181205:

A really nice floral with woody musk. A good balance between old style florals and new woods.
Longevity could be better.
05th December, 2018

Terre d'Hermès Eau Intense Vétiver by Hermès

Stardate 20181101:

I joined basenotes (and fragrance world) around the time basenote was doing the top 500 list. TdH came first and so I bought it blind. I loved it a lot initially. With time I found other better fragrances so my love waned but it was solid frag in my rotation. And then I came across raid - not only did it kill the cockroaches but also destroyed TdH for me.
That was until Nagel came and fixed the raid accord. Now I can wear this version of TdH and not think of cockroaches.
The vetiver is sharp in the opening (like the fat electrician vetiver) and smoothes out the IsoE and the sweet cockroach killer accord. What is surprising is Nagel could add more vetiver to an already vetiver centric fragrance. I guess that is why she went for the dry peppery vetiver instead of sweeter ones (guerlain, carven).
All in all a good fragrance and better than original for me.
01st November, 2018

Doblis (original) by Hermès

Stardate 20181031:

Soft floral with a bit of sharpness. Not leather but there some the chypriness (Caleche-ness) here. A good composition (any maybe historically significant) but nothing about the smell justifies the hype or the price. Neutral to thumbs up.
31st October, 2018

Mysterious Oud by Bortnikoff

Stardate 20181031:

Boot Polish leather and spices. A bit of oud. Decent fragrance but nothing mysterious or new here. Not worth the price IMO.
31st October, 2018

L'Air du Desert Marocain by Tauer

Stardate 20181030:

Amber is a very versatile note in fragrance. It is used as fixative. Add it to vanilla and you get an oriental. It also adds warmth and/or a shimmering glow to the composition.
In all these application, Amber adds sweetness to the composition. Dry Amber is not something I have seen.
LADDM changed that. Somehow Andy made the Amber dry. And I guess that is where the Desert comes from in the name.
The addition of soft spices evokes image of a souk in a desert. Name is apt and fragrance amazing.
30th October, 2018
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Bleecker Street by Bond No. 9

Stardate 20181029:

A very safe and good all purpose fragrance. Has been compared to GIT but I find Bleecker Street to be much better cause it goes easy on the aquatics(Dihydromyrcenol is my nemesis).
Dry down is sweetish ambery and woodsy.
29th October, 2018

Sixes & Sevens by Slumberhouse

Stardate 20181012:

My first Slumberhouse. I had high expectations with this one. So when I sprayed it Yesterday (the day when we all got our bottles) I was elated. The top is the best. Incense+animalics+sweet resins. Loved it.
But into the heart phase the cumin note became way too prominent for me. Since this was not consensus here I sprayed a few more spritzes to get rid of juice in the tube. Now I find it much more balanced. The top that I liked continues throughout. The cumin is there but in background. For those who did not like it the first time I would recommend trying it a couple more times before making up your mind.
There is a hint of oud at the back which is hidden up top by incense and cumin. I suppose the cumin-oud-musk combo can be called leather (Dior's Leather Oud).
To me it is predominantly an incense+cumin+resin fragrance.

What I like the most here is the balance and blending. Very unlike his others (Norne,Baque, Sova) I sampled.
Bottomline: Great fragrance. A bit too pricey. 4 stars
12th October, 2018

Excalibur by Avon

Stardate 20181010:

It has moss,lavender and something sweet/floral up top. A fougere structure but non-traditional. There is some leather too - Avon's leather.
I find it very similar in style to Oland but better than Oland. Someone compared it to English Leather and I can see the resemblance.
For the price - recommended
11th October, 2018

Lui by Mazzolari

Stardate 20181009:

A great modern animalic. The style is similar to Muscs Koublai Khan - real funky up top but soon the supporting structure takes over and you get a nice sweet ambery people pleaser with a musky kick.
I do prefer MKK to this. Just cause I find MKK to be less funky in drydown.
A must for folks who like musk or animalics

09th October, 2018

Everest by Avon

Stardate 20181009:

Starts out pine-y and green. Reminds me a bit of Pino. But then it takes classic route and settles to a nice musky powder. A nice classic green fragrance. I would buy it if cheap.
09th October, 2018

Blend 7 by Avon

Stardate 20181009:

Thought it would be 23.3% similar to Blend 30 :).
It is really nice. It is a lot like Open by Roger and Gallet.
Herbal fougere. Has a smoky tobacco and leather accord too. Drydown is floral sweet.
The best of the pass so far with good development.
09th October, 2018

Tribute by Avon

Stardate 20181009:

Starts nice and strong with musk, mint and anise notes. Would make a nice barbershop A/S.
The development is traditional and relatively quick. It ends with sweet tonka.
A decent one but not for me since mint is something I love in my tea and toothpaste but not in my fragrances :)
09th October, 2018

Wild Country by Avon

Stardate 20181004:

A decent classic fragrance. The tonka is strong initially but then gives way to animalics - is it musk or something else? It is not laundry musk for sure :) . I can see why it gets compared to Brut cause Brut is heavy of musk and coumarin but Wild country has different evolution and it lacks lavendar+moss. Strange cause I do see them listed in the notes.
A neutral for me.
04th October, 2018

Leather by Avon

Stardate 20180930:

The style of leather here is similar to Etro Gomma / K10 / Burberry For Men 1st. I dislike that style of leather.
Avon , fortunately, was stingy with it and so I like this one better than the big three.
The leather is supported by some citrus and moss. The development is not a whole lot but I can wear this leather and not be unhappy. Mild Thumbs up
01st October, 2018

Clint by Avon

Stardate 20180930:

I had to wear it two days in a row to understand. It is similar to various classic leathers and yet different from them.
The leather used is same as k10 type. I think they used the one from their 1966 Leather. But it has been blended so well into woody (vetiver perhaps) moss that you get an animalic character (which I do not get from K10 and likes).
Sometimes I feel it is a missing link joining traditional EDC and leather. Aramis perhaps was influenced by this.
01st October, 2018

Windjammer by Avon

Stardate 20180930:

Starts out as traditional cologne - Citrus(Neroli),lavendar,vetiver,moss. But, thankfully, lingers around and has a more prominent development to something sweetish (Tonka or SW perhaps)
I prefer it to 4711
01st October, 2018

Tai Winds by Avon

Stardate 20180930:

Perhaps the first tonka bomb. I think the idea was to make a fougere but they went overboard with tonka. Moss and lavender play 2nd and 3rd fiddle. The musk makes it a bit 'Brut'ish. It also has that ashtray vibe at the end. Maybe an Avon thing.
A big pass for me
01st October, 2018

Deep Woods by Avon

Stardate 20180930:

A nice old school barbershop. Has the tonka, moss and herbs. The soapy aldehyde brings it close to Paco Rabanne PH. The aldehydes are much less than PRPH which lets tonka and lavender to express themselves.
All in all a good masculine.
01st October, 2018

Aramis Tobacco Reserve by Aramis

Stardate 20180930:

Unfortunately the tobacco here is same as Tom Ford Tobacco Vanilla and 18.21 - cloying and meh. I guess it is more tonka and less tobacco.
The good news is that the intensity is muted and balanced by dry woods which does make it smell like dry tobacco leaf.
I don't see much similarities with Aramis classic.
All in all not bad and if you like this kind of tobacco it is better and cheaper that what is available.

Mild thumbs up.
30th September, 2018

First Eau de Parfum by Van Cleef & Arpels

Stardate 20180913:

When I was a newbie, I got a bunch of these from Target to give as gifts. I liked the shape of bottle,its name and it smelled decent though a bit old school.

With time, as I tried more fragrances, I thought this is a knock off of other aldehydic florals. Stopped caring for.

A month or two ago I came across vintage version on eBay for cheap and snapped it up. And I am glad I did cause this version is simply amazing.
You can smell the whole floral symphony with 3D effect. But that is not even the best part. The drydown is where you see its beauty in full. Soft, powdery sanadalwood.

It is hard to describe how good this is. I have Arpege and Joy in vintage formulation and I find First to be superior. Arpege is too indolic, First goes low on indoles and uses civet to add the funk. Arpege blinds with aldehydes while First uses it for a shimmering glow.
Joy is a great white floral but it is simple. Lacks the evolution First has.
I have not tried vintage No 5 but the current No 5 is nowhere near any of these 3 vintage florals.
All I can say is that this is Ellena's best work and he should have stuck to this style.

Vintage Version is 5 stars. Current is 3 stars.
13th September, 2018

Basile Uomo Forte by Basile

Stardate 20180901:

Given the "Basile Uomo" in name and the note pyramid, I, like Martin Dean, was expecting herbal powerhouse.
Instead I got a dandified version of Basile Uomo.
The top is herbal and citrus - very much like a flanker of Basile Uomo should be. But then it changes course pretty quickly and goes in the direction of Tiffany for Men/Chanel Cologne Concentree. A bit more spicier but in a subtle way. The spices are like herbes de Provence rather than Italian herbs which was unexpected. Longevity could be better.

All in all a decent vintage frag still available at decent prices.

03rd September, 2018

Hindu Grass by Nasomatto

Stardate 20180822:

A nice boozy patchouli. Has some elements of Givenchy Gentleman. Very unlike typical Nasomatto.

Neutral cause for the price you can buy Vintage Givenchy Gentelmen or Giorgio for Men - both are better than this one.
22nd August, 2018