Perfume Reviews

Reviews by epapsiou

Total Reviews: 247

Sarrasins by Serge Lutens

Stardate 20170720:

To me this is a best Jasmine fragrance. A jasmine soliflore.

I like jasmine smell but it comes at a cost- fecal indoles. Therefore a jasmine heavy fragrance is generally a pass for me.

The beauty of Sarrasins is that it captures the jasmine and leaves out most of the fecal bits.

And the jasmine is strong.

Borrowing from what jujy54 and purecaramel wrote - Post-coital heavenly bliss in a bed of jasmine flowers

20th July, 2017

Khôl de Bahreïn by Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777

Stardate 20170719:

Starts off like many of the current wood and resin top heavy fragrances. Settles down to a nice amber,honey, vanilla scent.
The heart and the base have similarities with Oud Satin mood and Kalemat.
Nothing original but a good scent done well.
A mild thumbs up to neutral
19th July, 2017

Iris Bleu Gris by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

Stardate 20170718:

I think the name should have been Green Iris Blues.
Starts of very green - I guess from the citrus and the roots (iris & vetiver)
And then it changes and gets earthier and sweeter. Roots and tonka/vanilla perhaps that bring on this accord.
Settles down to a nice rooty-green makeup scent.
A keeper
18th July, 2017
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Terre de L'Encens by Cloon Keen Atelier

Stardate 20170713:

A great opening - incense,smoke,woods mixed with some make-up iris. Very similar to CdG Man2 or GPH76 (I guess it must be C-10,C-12) with dash of Iris.
Unfortunately, the CdGM2 part fades very soon and the Floral-Iris becomes more prominent throwing the composition off balance. I am not a fan of this part of the development(which is basically whole mid and base notes)
A different take on iris and a nice effort.
A mild thumbs up
13th July, 2017

Iris 39 by Le Labo

Stardate 20170712:

An incensey soapy fragrance. Iris shows up top and then gives way to incensy patch.
Musk and soap make this office safe and delight to smell.
Late in drydown I get a smoky musky good ness. Reminds me of monsieur Carven drydown and anything coming close to that can't be bad.
A thumbs up.
12th July, 2017 (last edited: 13th July, 2017)

Rand by Moresque

Stardate 20170710:

Take Aventus and mix it with one of the Aoud Montale - Voila we have Rand.
This is a sister of Aventus for Her but done better. A unisex fragrance.
Aventus for her loses its plot very soon and degenerates into a Montale like rose oudh very soon. Rand on he other hand maintains the smoky pineapple accord way into the drydown. This works very well with the woodsy (oudy) base.
A bit synthetic but a delight.
Longevity is Montale like - excellent
11th July, 2017

Dzongkha by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Stardate 20170710:

Starts out as iris in a chypre structure.
Then about an hour in spices start showing up - Cardamom is more prominent than the others. The others blend into smell of Indian spice rack/shop.
I do not like this rendition of cardamom - too synthetic. Lacks the depth of real cardamom.
After a couple of hours the base sets in and stays till the end. Base is peppers in sour milk. Not my favourite.
There is a backdrop of Indian Masala Chai with iris throughout the base and heart period.

10th July, 2017

Collection Grands Crus : Assam of India by Berdoues

Stardate 20170707:

Starts as a bright citrus. After an hour or so settles down to plastic floral citrus. Inoffensive and boring.
I get no tea or SW.
Not bad but not FBW either
Somewhere between mild thumbs up and neutral
07th July, 2017

Oud Assam by Rania J

Stardate 20170707:

A very good oud fragrance. Challenging and animalic but not very barnyardy.
As others have mentioned, this is a good introduction to ouds. The paradox - why this cheesy smelly thing is so intoxicating, is easier to understand here.
Oud becomes muted as it enters drydown and tonka and pepper show up in a nice menage-a-trois .
07th July, 2017

Shooting Stars: Uden by Xerjoff

Stardate 20170703:

I have no idea who buys Xerjoff. Uden has that same shampoo-cherry pie accord that is in almost all Xerjoffs. I call it the xerjoffinade after 'guerlainade'. There is a difference though - guerlainade is good. Xerjoffinade is bad, synthetic smelling mess it seems. What is lacks in quality it makes up in longevity (and that is not a good thing). I guess they just take their xerjoffinade , add or change one or 2 AC, change the name and voila you have a new niche fragrance.
03rd July, 2017

Capucci pour Homme by Roberto Capucci

Stardate 20170630:

There are 2 fragrances that bear this name and packaging. This is why the reviews are all over the place.
Well actually there is just one but it was reformulated drastically in late 90s that people who think they have real vintage do not.
And then there is the post IFRA shite.
So a 3 ingredient box does not guarantee that you have the original.
You can read more about it at the raiders.

On to the review

1) Original Vintage- Leather Chypre. A great leather. Think burberrys for men and add chypre to it. A man's cologne

2) Reformed version- Citrusy Chypre. No leather but a more manly citrus. None of the sweetness and dandiness of typical citruses.

Get either. Get both

01st July, 2017

Oud Silk Mood by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Stardate 20170630:

A typical oud rose combo of its era. There is a sour note like citronella candles - like in Baruti ouds(nooud). It is perhaps a note in the synthetic oud they both use.
I am a sucker for well balanced rose-oud. This one is. Development is good and it gets much smoother with time. There are others that are similar and cheaper - Tiziana Gold Rose Oud, Yurman Limited edition, nut OSM has its own charm.
This is perhaps the best from this line (I have not tried oud cashmere mood so can't be 100% sure)

30th June, 2017

Uomo by Lorenzo Villoresi

Stardate 20170629:

A classic italian cologne with some vetiver. Very well blended. Longevity could be better but on the whole recommended.
29th June, 2017
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Baccarat Rouge 540 by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Stardate 20170629:

I remember sampling it in Bergdorf a year or so ago (2016) and it was more ambery saffrony and red. But the official sample is lighter and transparent. Perhaps things have changed with this one. My review is for the current version.
It is a fairly simple italian style cologne with a sweet ambery base. Think AdP Colonia with touch of Jasmine up top and some amber and perhaps saffron and some musk.
It is decent but pricey. Slight thumbs up
29th June, 2017

Aqua Universalis Forte by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Stardate 20170628:

A well composed citrus floral fragrance. The white musk and woods give this a bit of a heft making it stand out in the world of citruses.
There is some sweetness here and the whole composition is smooth. This fragrance envelopes you and gives a nice clean feeling.
It is different than most others and I think the soft muted florals are the reason. Makes it very different than fresh out of laundry smell and more like 'just taken a bath in a waterfall in middle of flower field'.

28th June, 2017

Super Fragrance for Men by Etienne Aigner

Stardate 20170627:

A super fragrance. A classic composition. In the style of Bugatti, Chanel PM Concentree. But I think this one is better than them all.
The development is great and I think top is better than Bugatti.
Starts a bit creamy citrusy, skanky with hint of pepper. And dries down to sandalwood vanilla powder.
It is smooth and FBW. A shame that it is discontinued.
27th June, 2017

Cuir Pleine Fleur / Fine Leather by Heeley

Stardate 20170625:

This reminds me of Or Black.
Green Soapy sweet floral.
I don't get leather but then I did not in K10 either so that must be me.
Or Black is dry and austere while CPF is sweet and floral and perhaps more wearable

A thumbs up all the way

26th June, 2017

Criminal of Love by By Kilian

stardate 20170623:

I do not get anything other than White Phenyl smell (a common hospital disinfectant made with pine oil and emulsifier).
Perhaps I am overly sensitive to this smell.
White Phenyl to me is what Pinesol is to most of you - not a good scent association.

There is some rose but is drowned in Phenyl.
I can't recommend it.
23rd June, 2017

Statement by Etienne Aigner

Stardate 20170623:

A fresh fragrance, similar to New West in style. So perhaps Calone and spices instead of DiHydromyrcenol for freshness.
I find this much more wearable than New West, probably because it lack the BayLeaf+Rosemary etc accord.

The top projects a lot but as it hits the base (4 hours) the scent becomes skin scent, just like new west skin scent :)

On its way from generic freshness to a great base it pays homage to some of the greats of a bygone era - Cacheral PH, Catalyst (some may say Havana or Dunhill Edition). The musky-ambery base is real quality and typical vintage and I wish it came sooner and projected more.

I am not a fan of freshies (calone is still better than dihydromyrcenol) and so this gets a mild thumbs up at the current prices ($10/oz)

I would have preferred if top was less fresh and base more prominent

23rd June, 2017

Gris Montaigne by Christian Dior

Stardate 20170622:

A masculine Rose Patchouli floral that does not smell like traditional Rose Patchouli.
There is a grape soda accord too which perhaps adds that je ne sais quoi.
Lasts long and is very safe.
22nd June, 2017

Eau de Cartier : Vétiver Bleu by Cartier

Stardate 20170621:

A decent minty ,citrusy dry vetiver. Shares L'Envol DNA.
Nothing ground breaking but a nice fresh vetiver for a good price.

21st June, 2017

Chypre de Coty by Coty

Stardate 20170620:
1980's version. Reference Chypre. That is all folks
20th June, 2017

Derby by Guerlain

Stardate 20170619:

A great masculine of bygone era. A very well blended fragrance and I had tough time picking up notes. Hot spice, artemesia, floral notes (rose perhaps) and leather.
But it is not the individual notes that make this great but their interplay with one another

Reformulation has been kind to it and this is often available for a substantial discount online. Look for it and snap it up.
19th June, 2017

Virgin Island Water by Creed

Stardate 20170609:

Take SMW and add some coconut water. Not bad but again if you like this kind of fragrances options are limitless at better price point.
09th June, 2017

Silver Mountain Water by Creed

Stardate 20170609:
I am not a big fan of dihydromyrcenol. So I stay away from fragrances that have them (which is a lot of modern ones). I was, therefore, never a fan of GIT or Cool Water. SMW to me smells like a lighter version of GIT. An EDC formulation perhaps. The DiHydromyrcenol is within my tolerable limits.
A nice summer scent. But there are better out there at lower price(AdG line, AdP line)
09th June, 2017

Doe in the Snow by 4160 Tuesdays

Stardate 20170609:

I could not really break this fragrance down to its constituents. It is a great smelling floral with sweetish base. Very well blended and development is great. After a few hours it smells like Ponds Dreamflower Talc that my grandmother used.
Just great. FB worthy for sure. Just too feminine for me (perhaps the talc association).
This is how fragrances are supposed to be.
Well-blended, great development, nice smelling and affordable.
That this was made in 2014 makes IFRA restrictions a bad excuse for the state of current perfumery.
09th June, 2017

17/17 Richwood by Xerjoff

Stardate 20170609:

Shampoo and cherry-pie. Nothing else really. Base at 9 hr mark is a bit better. But I guess it is just shampoo note wearing off off by then.
09th June, 2017

Giorgio for Men by Giorgio Beverly Hills

Stardate 20170607:

Vintage Version:

A great patch honey fragrance. If you like Ho Hang Club, Givenchy Gentleman you would love this.
Heck you would love this no matter what. Just get a bottle
07th June, 2017

Join The Club : Ivory Route by Xerjoff

Stardate 20170606:

Love the top.
Spices and Amber (plus some incense)
But it loses the script after couple of hours and Xerjoff's signature sweet powdery base rears its ugly head.
06th June, 2017 (last edited: 07th June, 2017)

Rose Omeyyade by Atelier Des Ors

Stardate 20160606:
It is a nice rose smell where the counterbalance is given by woods, oud in drydown and greens up top. raspberry here does not play the same role as strawberry in Rose Dragon. I wish it did. The Greens i get up top is perhaps patch+raspberry.
This is not a bad fragrance and would be FB but given the million masterpiece I got to smell in rose pass this will be a pass for me.
Its drydown is similar to Terenzi's Ecstasy or Armani's Oud Royal.
06th June, 2017