Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Scent Detective

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Total Reviews: 215

Mandarine Glaciale by Atelier Cologne

A nice orange fragrance with a hint of a ginger spice that is very nice. Doesn't have amazing longevity, but it's not too bad for a cologne. I wouldn't mind having some of this as I love the freshness. It has a different presence than my beloved neroli frags and adds one of the better orange notes I've tried so far.
06th September, 2017

English Oak & Hazelnut by Jo Malone London

Picked up a sample of this today and I like it much more than I thought I "wood". The opening has the hazlenut, but it's the dry down that I've appreciated the most. They're calling the oak note a "roasted oak", which sounds interesting, but actually seems to lessen just a touch the sour quality oak notes seem to have to my nose. The elemi, vetiver and moss round this out nicely between the nutty hazelnut and the oak which smells very nice. I've been very impressed by the sillage and the longevity of this frag. Much better on my skin than virtually every other Jo Malone I've tried. This may be bottle worthy for the wonderful dry down. I'd try a sample first though.
05th September, 2017

Purple Label by Ralph Lauren

A subdued but highly enjoyable fragrance. Yes, it is sweet, but is also slightly dusky from the tobacco, thyme and oakmoss. I have thoroughly enjoyed this fragrance all day long. The sweetness from the blackberry note in the opening has lingered all day, but does mellow during the wear. The mandarin note also lingers and is a big part of the dry down. It's definitely not a sillage beast, but what a pleasant skin scent! I've found another Ralph Lauren fragrance to love. Original Polo will always be my favorite from this house, but I really do love this one too! And, purple has always been my favorite color to boot! Seriously though, this is a refined and enjoyable fragrance and I'm so happy to have it in my rotation.
04th September, 2017
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Polo Red by Ralph Lauren

A slight thumbs up for Polo Red. It doesn't have the revered place in my heart that original Polo Green has, and it never will. My son says it smells like Skittles, and I can see where he's coming from. It is very sweet as others have mentioned, and does have a candy vibe going on. I don't mind spraying a very small spritz on one wrist and wearing it around once in a while, but I would never overspray this one. I tested the Polo Red Intense at the Polo outlet store and actually preferred it to regular Polo Red. I need to get a sample of Red Intense.
04th September, 2017

Bois d’Hiver by Ex Nihilo

Bois d'Hiver is very interesting. It starts out as the best smelling Play Doh ever made. Seriously though, the cardamon heliotrope patchouli combo gives this a sweet musky scent that is quite pleasant. It's hard to smell this when you're wearing it after a short time, but others can smell it, similar to the aroma chemical in Molecule 01. At least that's been my experience so far. I quite like the smell of Bois d'Hiver and would love to have more than a sample.
01st September, 2017

Blue Sage / Lime / Fir Wood by Korres

I want to like this one, but I'm struggling with it. Based on the Fir, Lime, Vetiver, Sage and mint, I should love it...but it has a major men's designer vibe going on. I keep smelling my arm and having visions of Macy's men's fragrance counter with a miasma of fragrance test strips laying on the counter in front of me and intermingling into a headache inducing cloud. Okay, so there are some redeeming qualities to Blue Sage Lime and Fir Wood. In the very first moments after spraying, I could smell the lime, and almost make out some fir wood. But it became a musky conglomeration all too quickly. I need to give it some more time and see what develops. Neutral for now.
30th August, 2017

Cologne 352 by Ex Nihilo

I love the opening. This is the best juniper berry note I've ever smelled in a fragrance. This starts with citrus and juniper and is so sharp...it could cut you if you move the wrong way. My problem with this fragrance is that it starts sharp throughout the wear. Okay, so it does mellow a little bit, but there is a relentlessness that wore me out after about 10 hours. I can't believe I'm complaining about longevity in a fragrance???!!!! That is so weird...but, I got olfactory fatigue with this frag after a while. Cologne 352 is so well made. It just vibrates class and expertise. It is also extremely expensive, and one must love, love, love it to invest in a full bottle. I like it a lot, and I appreciate the accomplishment it represents, but I don't know if I'll wear it enough to justify the full bottle treatment, never the less, this is an amazing eau de cologne...simply stunning. In fact, it's so "stunning" that I went 10 rounds with it and it TKO'd me...I'm stunned. Still a thumbs up, but get a sample...do not blind buy this one...
30th August, 2017

Olympic Rainforest by Olympic Orchids

An excellent green fragrance that is natural smelling in the way essential oil perfumes are. I'm surprised to see sword ferns listed as a note, as I've come to understand that ferns don't have a scent, which led to the whole fougere fragrance genre's creation. Anyway, this does have coniferous notes, which I absolutely love, but it also has the undergrowth vibe, complete with just a hint of mustiness, which must come from the mushroom. There is also a slightly sweet note which I assume comes from beebalm and the florals. Performance is of a shorter duration than I typically like, but I would love to have a bottle of this one.
28th August, 2017

As Sawira by Penhaligon's

I smell saffron in the opening, mixed with florals and a whole lot more boiling under the surface. Yes, it is sweet, yes, it is exotic smelling, and it does have a sandalwood note in the dry down along with patchouli. I like the dry down better than the opening to be honest. But, it starts to dissipate and the dry down didn't last quite long enough on me to appreciate it fully. I need to wear it again and spend more time with this one, then finish reviewing.
28th August, 2017

Clubman by Pinaud

This may be considered a classic, but I don't find it very appealing. It smells like an oil lubricant you'd use on a sewing machine, with a bit of floral mixed in. Perhaps it's my lack of refinement that causes me to feel this way...and yet, I think it's my nose that's doing it.
27th August, 2017

Shaving Shop by Taylor of Old Bond Street

Huh...this does open like a 5th of whiskey as other's have said. It settles down into the barbershop vibe, but it's not my favorite of the barbershop genre. Yet again another I'd like to have tried first before purchasing. The good thing is that it's not a massive purchase, but still, the $35.00 could have gone towards something I liked much better. Ah...blind buys...I do it far too often. It's kind of fun to take the gamble when you find something special. This isn't bad, but it's not for me.
27th August, 2017

Old Spice Fresh Lime by Shulton

Afraid I got the reformulated version of this that's made in India now. It smells nothing like "limes" to me at all. In fact, it almost smells like an inferior version of the current classic offering, which is of course not as good as the original Old Spice used to be. I'm sorry if this review is in the wrong place, but I couldn't find the newer version made in India to put this review in the right place. I'd love to try this original version.
27th August, 2017

Clubman Virgin Island Bay Rum by Pinaud

A watery bay rum that isn't terrible, but also isn't inspiring. Dirt cheap, which is a good thing, but if I'd been able to sample this first, I wouldn't have bought it.
27th August, 2017
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Giorgio for Men by Giorgio Beverly Hills

Slight thumbs up for Giorgio of BH for men. This is the biggest patchouli bomb I've encountered. I'm not a huge patchouli fan, so I have a hard time wearing this. However, for someone who loves patch, you definitely need this in your collection. It is dirt cheap! I got a bottle at TJ Maxx for around $16.00. It has nuclear longevity and will outlast any night out on the town.
27th August, 2017

Quorum by Antonio Puig

Not too bad. Quorum is patterned after the original Polo, or, seems to bean attempt to cover the same basic template, with more herbs mixed in. Quorum has a dirtier, mustier vibe than Polo does in my opinion. I don't mind Quorum. It's a great value for the price, and if applied lightly is enjoyable.
27th August, 2017

Blu Mediterraneo Fico di Amalfi by Acqua di Parma

Starts out fresh with citrus and fig notes. For some reason this smells a touch synthetic to me. It's nice, but it doesn't have as much staying power as I'd like. I haven't oversprayed yet, but perhaps that would take care of the lack of longevity.
27th August, 2017

Sole di Positano by Tom Ford

Sole di Positano smells very nice. The problem in my mind is that it basically smells like Neroli Portifino, and I already have Neroli Portofino, so I have no need for SdP. I pick up more petitgrain in the opening of SdP than I do in the opening of NP, but it really does smell A LOT like NP. So, if you're trying to decide on a nice neroli based fragrance and you don't own either one of these, then give this a try. The only other difference I would say is the longevity seems better in Neroli Portofino than in Sole di Positano. In fact, SdP almost feels more like an Eau de Cologne than it does like an Eau de Parfum, whereas NP feels more like an EDP. Neutral rating for me as I try to figure out why Tom Ford would go to the trouble of releasing so many fragrances that are basically the same thing with different names. I guess it's because some people just have to have one of everything.
26th August, 2017

MEM by Bogue Profumo

I'm probably not politically correct enough to enjoy MEM. Instant revulsion on my part when I put this on. I left it on to see if it would morph into something I would ever consider wearing, but no. MEM smells to me like the hand lotion Aunt Bessie bought at Woolworth's Drug Store back in 1974. This has an old lady smell to my nose. I could detect some woods lurking under the surface, but they were so overcome by the florals and old lady vibe, that there was no way for me to get any enjoyment out of this frag. I also picked up some funk, and I see now why, as civet is a listed note. This is a busy mess, and reads like a case of fragrance by blender. There is some movement during the course of the wear,and MEM eventually lightens just a tiny bit on the old lady floral funk, but not nearly enough for me.
24th August, 2017

Thundra by Profumum

Not something I would seek out. It smells odd. I didn't think of mushrooms until I read some of the other posts. I'm not sure I smell shrooms, but I do smell an overall fragrance that I would have no interest in wearing. I gave it a third star because I love the house. But, this is not one of their star performers in my opinion.
24th August, 2017

Amber Sky by Ex Nihilo

A beautiful fragrance. I'm not a huge amber fan, hence a four star rating for me, but still, this is an amazing amber. The best I've tried. This starts out very resinous to me and then switches over to a syrupy honey sweetness with a hint of raspberry and jasmine. I definitely smell the patchouli, but it's blended in nicely and doesn't overpower as it can, which I appreciate. The longevity and sillage are both impressive. I've now tried two Ex Nihilo fragrances, and both have been amazing. They should be amazing for the price, but the good thing is, they are. I'm checking out more from this line, and it's quickly becoming one that I have a keen interest in based on their quality. That is not a good thing for my wallet, but it could be for my wardrobe.
23rd August, 2017

Arabie by Serge Lutens

I like it. It smells sweet, but dirty sweet. Like the spices and fruits have been fermenting in some type of "bazaar" stone jar for oh, I don't know...maybe 40 years or something. Two sprays is the max I'll use with this one. It projects plenty well and will overpower with it's uniqueness. But, one small spray at the base of the neck and one on the left wrist is sufficient to enjoy that uniqueness without alienating others. Another Lutens I'm enjoying...thanks Serge and Christopher!
20th August, 2017

07 Tanoke by Odin New York

A superb incense based fragrance with ginger, pepper and orange out front. I feel like there's some clove in there too, although not listed. The olibanum keeps this from turning into a potpourri in the opening. Not that potpourri is a bad thing...I love a good potpourri. But, this is a much dryer, more woodsy scent. I would say this is a very stark fragrance, meaning that it's well delineated. It's got nothing to hide...it's all out there. It's in your face, literally, and just is what it is. And, what it is, is a very good thing. It smells wild, but it's a well behaved wild. I feel like I'll wear this a lot more in a suit, white shirt and tie than I will in jeans and a t-shirt. Not that it wouldn't fit in both situations. This makes me feel like I'm sitting in a board room at a huge table made out of a single slab of redwood tree that's got different shades of deep browns and reds rippling outward in a circular pattern from the center. But, it's covered in many layers of clear acrylic to keep it from giving me slivers. Yeah, it's kind of like that.

Two enthusiastic thumbs way up!
19th August, 2017

Vétiver Moloko by Ex Nihilo

A rare gem. The opening is wonderful. The vetiver is present from the beginning. I'm picking up olibanum as well, although it's not in the listed notes. This fragrance is well made and wears very comfortably. Excellent longevity and sillage, but not offensive to those around you. It draws people in. This would be an excellent addition to any wardrobe. I've tried two Ex Nihilo fragrances now, this one and Amber Sky. Both are ridiculously nice, but extremely expensive. At least you're getting a beautiful experience while wearing this, which is the whole point of wearing a fragrance. I want this, but I'll have to pony up some serious dough to get it. Two thumbs up as high as possible!
18th August, 2017

Eccelso by Profumum

A slight thumbs up for Eccelso by Profumum. It's s a well made fragrance as are all of Profumum's fragrances. It is very sweet throughout the wear, and seems linear to my nose, as others have said. I do get just the slightest hint of smokiness, with florals, but it comes across with a candy like vibe. I can also detect sandalwood in the dry down, but as I said, this hasn't changed much...it's pretty similar from opening to dry down. Not one I'd invest in, but it may be just the thing for some.
16th August, 2017

Uomo by Lorenzo Villoresi

Petitgrain...a boatload of petitgrain in the opening of Uomo, at least to my nose. This is a very nice barbershop scent. The citrus opening which mostly smells of petitgrain to me is nice, and then the green starts to come out. This is obviously well made. The only problem I have with it is it's brevity. It just doesn't last very well, about 2.5 hours on me. But, the smell is top notch. Uomo by Villoresi is what Concentrae d Orange Vert wanted to be in it's little B.O. heart when it grew up. They are very similar from the citrus green standpoint, but where CDOV smells just like body odor to me, Uomo shines like a sparkling citrus grove with just the right blend of other green notes fused into it's composition. I also smell some similarities to Acqua Di Parma Colonia Essenza from the soapy barbershopy vibe that comes through at the end of Uomo's far too short life. He burned bright, but he burned out quickly...that sums up the enjoyable briefness of Uomo.
13th August, 2017

Aquae Nobilis by Profumum

Interesting opening. Has an almost petrol note to it. Must be the geranium. I wonder if they could make gasoline out of geraniums? Huh. Anyway, the other notes are excellent. Once it gets into the dry down this stuff smells great! I love the oakmoss with the absinthe. Very smooth and just smells wonderful. I would say the dry down reminds me just a touch of Elite by Floris. I'd have to say that I like the Elite better overall just because I love it from opening through the dry down, and Aquae Nobilis takes some time to become lovable. It's a bit of a curmudgeon in the opening, but still a very nice fragrance overall...just not nice enough to invest it.
08th August, 2017

Antico Caruso by Profumum

Antico = Ancient. Caruso = Boy.

So, this could either mean it's either for old guys who feel young at heart, or it's for young guys who feel really old. Since I'm a mature dude who is 12 mentally, it worked pretty well for me! :-)

There are other potential meanings for the Italian word Caruso aside from "boy", the name of this frag could also mean, Ancient Close Cropped, or Ancient Smooth, or Ancient Bald. All of this comes from the middle ages where Italian young men of fashion would wear their hair close cropped or shorter than the prevailing style. Okay, end of history rant.

Antico Caruso the fragrance has a nice citrus opening. I think I like the opening the best. As mentioned by others once AC starts to dry down, it is very linear. The dry down is sharp to my nose. The listed mid and base notes say almond and sandalwood. I get barbershop, but I must admit, this one gets slightly tedious after about 5 hours. I do prefer YSL's Rive Gauche Pour Homme to this one in terms of barbershop fragrances. This is nice, but not nice enough for the investment required to own a bottle.
05th August, 2017

Rhinoceros by Zoologist Perfumes

Rhinoceros. Not the first thing that comes to mind when I think of something I want to smell like. I'm sure this frag doesn't smell like a Rhino, so maybe it smells like a Rhino Virus, because that always leaves me cold.

The list of notes is staggering. That may be one of the problems I have with this one...there is a lot going on here. I do get some leather, some musk, some smoke, and some elemi. Other than that, this all homogenizes into a funk of smell that doesn't really work for me. I don't want to work as hard as I will need to work to find enjoyment from wearing Rhinoceros. Perhaps I'm just being near sighted, but I don't get a charge out of this one.
04th August, 2017

Platinum Égoïste by Chanel

Wood...floral wood...toasted floral wood...synthetic toasted floral wood. I don't care for the opening. The initial spray brought to mind the sameness of scent I get at virtually every designer fragrance counter. I did smell an almost Creed like ambergris and citrus on the outer fringes of the opening. It was slight and fleeting, but I did like that for a moment. Platinum Egoiste does get nicer in the dry down as the harshness of the opening settles. Of the listed notes, I get none in the opening except for the pettigrain. I love both lavender and rosemary, but I can't find them in the overpowering musky, designer fume that my nose was fighting through in PE's opening. In the mids I got geranium and perhaps galbanum, but no clary sage. The base notes of vetiver, cedar wood, labdanum and tree moss escaped me except for the cedar. I wouldn't recognize labdanum if it came up and bit me at this point, but I'm still learning. Platinum Egoiste is a disappointment for me. I had heard good things about it, but it's definitely not my style. Villoresi's Uomo is the astringent woody frag I'd reach for in this realm and would never feel the need to reach for Platinum Egoiste again.
04th August, 2017

Ormonde Man by Ormonde Jayne

Not too bad. This is a clean smell that leans towards the synthetic side of clean smells to me. I did pick up just the slightest hint of conifer in the opening, an almost Tom Ford Vert de Encens type of conifer note overshadowed by other notes battling for supremacy. In the case of Ormonde Man it appears the other notes are cardamon and bergamot instead of heliotrope as it is in Vert de Encens. I don't mind this fragrance. It smells nice and feels well put together. The dry down takes on a Chanel vibe in my opinion. It does get powdery, but I did enjoy wearing this today.
04th August, 2017