Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Scent Detective

Total Reviews: 288

Serge Noire by Serge Lutens

Whew! The opening of Serge Noire is what I imagined the Scent of Oger to smell like! ;-) To quote Shrek who is an Oger..."Ogers are like onions...they have layers." Serge Noir has several layers thats for sure.

This opens like an acrid, eye burning onion with a dark, dank blackness lurking just under the surface of the onion stench. Within 30 minutes the onion changes to the chap stick like note that I also read about...check and check. The onion apparently comes from the cumin. The chapstick like note I believe is from the elemi, as I've smelled a similar note in an elemi heavy scent before. I'm only about an hour in, so I'm hoping for more transitions that I've read about. I love clove and cinnamon, so I'm hoping for more of that. We'll see how this develops. What a weird fragrance. Weird from the standpoint of, "why would someone purposefully make something like this to market and sell to the public as a scent to wear on their bodies?" It almost makes you wonder if they did it just to see how many people would buy it. The opening alone is off putting enough to drive many people away, but I'm going to work with it and see if I can possibly figure out a way to wear this stuff...
09th August, 2018

Gris Clair by Serge Lutens

Gris Clair is a great lavender fragrance with tonka and iris that bring a sweetness to the greenness of the lavender. I like it! It's been a very pleasant day with Gris Clair. If you like lavender fragrances, this is a nice one to have in your wardrobe. It's at least worth a sample in my opinion.
07th August, 2018

Aqua Vitae by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

I love the opening of Aqua Vitae. It is a very fresh and clean from lemon and mandarine that wanes quickly to take on the IsoE woodiness with some tonka. I enjoyed this more than I did Aqua Universalis, and would probably consider getting a decant of this one.
06th August, 2018
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Aqua Universalis by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Thumbs up, but only slightlyAqua Universals is too much lily of the valley for my taste. I enjoy the bergamot and lemon, but the lily of the valley and musk combine to take this in a direction that is just a touch off for me.
06th August, 2018

BR78 : Vintage Green by Banana Republic

A thumbs up, but not a big thumbs up for me. BR78 Vintage Green doesn't really smell very green to me. It's got a nice bergamot opening, but then transitions into an smell that reminds me a bit of green, but it also of Ineke's Idyllwild, which has a strong rhubarb note that I don't much care for. I prefer more actual "green" fragrances than I do this one. Still, it has some panache and style, and is a worthy wear from time to time.
30th July, 2018

Cologne Sologne by Nicolaï

A beautiful, light cologne strength splash in spray bottle. Excellent neroli note, along with bergamot, orange, lemon, rosemary, lavender, patchouli and some light musk. As mentioned, this doesn't really progress much from the opening, but who's a fabulous fragrance, perfect for this time of year with the hot weather.

I know Sologne is an area in France, but the name of this fragrance makes me think of the Oreo commercial.

There's a board meeting in 1989, where the members are trying to come up with the name of their new product. One of the board members is asking if anyone has any ideas for the product name, and one of the other members asks him if he wants a pretzel from the tray on the table. The board member who is trying to get suggestions says, pretzels schmetzels! We need a name for this new cologne! The other board member lights up and says, that's it! Cologne Sologne! And the rest is history...
13th July, 2018

Fougère d'Argent by Tom Ford

The Tonka Bean is up front and center in the opening with some sparkle from the ginger. Lavender is definitely making itself known too. The opening is actually quite nice! I don't smell any mandarin. Hoping to get some patch from the Akigalawood as this dries down. Now that it's dried down for several hours, it smells quite a bit like Masculin Pluriel by MFK.
11th July, 2018 (last edited: 12th July, 2018)

Petit Matin by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Petit Matin is a wonderful, fresh, fragrance that has a beautiful opening, and transitions from there into a beautiful dry down. There is a note that is more transparent here, but it reminds me of something I smell in Slumberhouse's Pear + Olive. As I said, this note is much more transparent in Petit Matin, and much more dense and syrupy in Pear + Olive, but it is still a similar note to my nose. Petit Matin is a joy to wear, and I want a bottle as soon as I may. Thumbs up for Petit Matin!
11th July, 2018

Lemon Line by Mancera

A beautiful lemon opening. I've had a sample of this for quite some time and have smelled it off and on, but hadn't worn it until today. It smells wonderful. I love fresh lemon, and this develops into a lemon candy smell that is still a delight. I don't get much if any lavender, but the overall fragrance is a winner in my book. It doesn't seem to last very well on my skin, but that was from a dabber sample, so I'm expecting better performance from a spray bottle. I definitely want a bottle of this one. Thumbs way up.
22nd June, 2018

Polo Ultra Blue by Ralph Lauren

Polo Ultra Blue is definitely an aquatic, salty dip into the likes of the Nautica's and Tommy Bahama's of the fragrance industry. I don't generally like aquatic fragrances. I get tired of them very quickly. This one has a spiciness around the edges that I did like a bit, and being an EDT allowed it to soften more quickly than an EDP would have as the day went on, which helped me with the typical aquatic exhaustion that invariably comes on when I try to wear these types of salty dogs. I would say however that if I got a bottle on the cheap, I would probably pick one up.
16th June, 2018

Unsettled by Bruno Fazzolari

I'm a bit "unsettled" over this one. It's headache inducing for me. I don't think I could wear it all day again. It almost has a finger nail polish remover edge to it. Not sure if I'm suffering from allergies, or if it's this fragrance. Maybe I just picked a bad day to try this one. I'll wear it again another day to see if it improves.
05th June, 2018

Room 237 by Bruno Fazzolari

Hmm...okay let's see. Modeler's glue...check. suntan lotion...check. Alright, there ya have it...Room 237. This is strange, but I'm sure that's what BF was going for when he created this, "Shining" fragrance. Not my thing, but there's some who might like it. As already stated, the synthetic nature is off putting and takes this into the novelty arena in my book. Neutral for me.
15th May, 2018

Indolis by Areej le Doré

Right off the bat there is a nice white floral. However, I am also picking up spices. I know the ginger and olibanum are listed in the mids, but I am getting them after 15 minutes on my skin and I love it! A hint of lime as well, which pleases me greatly! Dare I say I love Indolis so far? I didn't think I would based on the comments I've seen that it's just basically a white floral, but there is much, much more going on for me in this first wearing. Something weird is that I showered with Dove soap this morning and the Indolis is mixing with the smell of the Dove soap, and the outcome is rather intoxicating! I think I'm going to need at least a nice decant of Indolis! I'm so grateful there's no musk in this one, as I love it just the way it is!
05th May, 2018
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Douro Eau de Portugal / Lords by Penhaligon's

The opening smells like lemon lime Kool-Aid. It's as bright and cheery as the beginning of summer vacation, after a long winter of school work and indoors. I've only worn it twice so far, but this is a wonderful, fresh fragrance that could use a little boost with regards to longevity and sillage, but that doesn't lessen my enjoyment of Douro. I like it well enough to invest in a back-up bottle.
29th April, 2018

An Air of Despair by Imaginary Authors

An Air of Despair was the perfect fragrance to wear today. This is an excellent fragrance, filled with cedar and saffron. The saffron is quite noticeable in the dry down, but it also has a bit of sweetness that reminds me of a brown sugary glaze with saffron. Quite delectable. Remarkable sillage and longevity on my skin. Super enjoyable wear, and fit my mood today as I had to do some heavy things at work. The "sadness accord" seemed to do it's work well. Seriously though, this is a winner in my book!
20th April, 2018

Five by Bruno Fazzolari

The opening of Five is a Ten! So fresh and sweet, in a good way that is instantly cheerful! I'd like to give Bruno Fazzolari "five," man. In fact, I'd like to give him a high "five!" Five also has excellent longevity! I put this on at 8:00 AM, and it's still a skin scent at 11:30 PM, fifteen and a half hours later! This is a definite keeper! I love the green, oakmoss like vibe from the rosemary and the "sweet woods," whatever those are. There is definitely a mineralic note that develops over time, but it didn't detract from the excellent transition of this fragrance's dry down today. I remember that the mineralic note bothered me a bit more the first time I wore it, but today's wearing was as near perfect as I could have hoped for. What a great fragrance! Highly recommended!
17th April, 2018

Onsen Wood by Madhat Scents

I like this one, but it has an interesting element that almost reminds me of smoked meat. The woody presence of hinoki is one element I enjoy a lot, but the heated, smoke like vibe reminds me of the heated lava rock in a sauna, but with slabs of beef drying over the top of the rocks. Interesting fragrance that I'll wear many more times as I try to figure out exactly what I'm smelling.
10th April, 2018

Rosa Resin Extrait de Parfum by Madhat Scents

My favorite male rose scent. Very deep resin presence with excellent spices as well. I've only worn it twice so far, but I've enjoyed it very much. I'll update my review after a few more wears, but I really love this one, and highly recommend it to anyone searching for an excellent men's rose fragrance.
10th April, 2018

Monocle Scent Two: Laurel by Comme des Garçons

Monocle Scent Two: Laurel is an excellent peppery green fragrance. As has been mentioned, it has a very dry aura, with a light sillage trail. Perhaps too light, but that's the only negative for me with this scent. I love the bitter green vibe that runs in the same vein as Profumum's Victrix, and D.S. & Durga's Boston Ivy, but Laurel is not as "sharp" in character as Victrix, and is not off putting to me, as is Boston Ivy. My daughter said it sort of smelled like lettuce, but in a good way. I thought that was funny, but perhaps more arugula than iceberg because of the peppery nature of the scent. I could see myself wearing this daily at the office for a week at a time. It's refreshing, but becomes a skin scent rather quickly, so as to not be overwhelming to co-workers. Two thumbs up for me on Monocle Scent Two: Laurel.
07th April, 2018

Resin Sacra by Tom Daxon

I'm a huge fan of frankincense/olibanum. I also love Myrrh. Resin Sacra by Tom Daxon does have a slight incense vibe towards to beginning of the wear, but not enough for me. Not sure what "suede" frankincense is, but it's very apparent to me that I prefer the regular version by a wide margin. Honestly, Resin Sacra begins to remind me more of YSL's L'Homme during the latter parts of the dry down. It's not a bad fragrance per se, just not something I'd invest it. Neutral for me.
07th April, 2018

Coromandel Eau de Parfum by Chanel

First of all, I've wanted to try this for a while and finally got some. I thought I was getting the EDT, but only because I'm blind, (not literally, just figuratively), so what I am wearing is the EDP, and I'm wondering if I'd like the EDT better? Is the patchouli more dominant in the EDT? Anyone whose tried both, please chime in. Anyway, this is well made, and definitely has the Chanel baseline DNA. Perhaps a bit too feminine for my taste, but I put one small spray on my wrist and then just a tiny dab behind each ear, and it actually grew on me as the day progressed. It's pretty fresh and nice. Coromandel has the "make-up" smell to me, similar to Dior Homme, but seems fresher as well. The 10 mils I have will probably last me for 10 years at the rate one days wear went today. It's potent and lasts a long time. I wouldn't ever wear more than I did today, as it has excellent sillage, and lasts all day and into the night. Excellent fragrance by Chanel and would smell amazing on a woman, that's for sure.
30th March, 2018

Chypre Mousse (new) by Oriza L. Legrand

Every scent I've tried so far from Orzia L. Legrand is work. It's an effort to find something to like. Chypre Mousse is another fail for me...just terrible. It does smell like melted plastic as Possum Pie said. I honestly have been trying to like something about one of the scents from this house, but so far it's been virtually pointless. Violets du Czar almost dried into something I could stand wearing, but again, this house is a lot of work. Their scents smell like old, decayed efforts at perfumery from long ago that were discovered in a run down mansion in humid New Orleans. The old decayed and decimated note profiles smell like they'd be right at home on the dried up skin of a zombie. Thumbs down for me.
29th March, 2018

LAVS by Unum

Incense fragrances are some of my very favorite. LAVS is a great one. I'd love to get a bottle some day. It's darker than many incense frags on the market, but it's rich and excellent. I have other favorite incense fragrances, and LAVS would be a great one to have in rotation. It is on the dark and cold side of things, but the olibanum note is strong and it!
24th March, 2018

Phoenicia by Heeley

Highest recommendation from me for Phoenicia. This is incredibly well made as well as incredibly refined. I'm coming to love the house of Heeley more with each fragrance I try. Phoenicia is a must have for me. Rich, incense laden, woody, opulent, with a hint of dried fruit, but in a classy, understated way. I absolutely love this fragrance and will purchase it as soon as I may. James Heeley is an excellent perfumer folks...
22nd March, 2018

Vikt by Slumberhouse

Love at first sniff!!! What an amazing fragrance! The main accord is a wonderful anise/licorice note that is the perfect level of spicy hotness, incredible! This is blended so wonderfully with balsamic and conifer notes that bring a dusky mellowness, while heightening the clear, piercing nature of the anise and the conifer at the same time. Brilliant blending and execution in my opinion. I love Rive Gauche Pour Homme, but the star anise note is very piercing in RGPH. In Vikt, it is perfectly balanced. This has moved way up my personal faves list! There is a slight hay like note in the early development of Vikt that isn't problematic for me, and was only slightly noticeable for a while. I don't smell it now at 7 hours in since application. I just realized that there is something about Vikt that reminds me of Noir Anthracite by TF. Interesting. Vikt became a skin scent on me at about the 5 hour mark, but the longevity was excellent, and I was still enjoying it 14 hours after application. This is my first wearing, so I'm looking forward to more opportunities to enjoy this excellent fragrance. Thumbs way up for Vikt!
22nd March, 2018

Replica Jazz Club by Martin Margiela

I agree with manicboy. This starts out okay, almost barbershop with rum, but it becomes a convoluted mess that just smells not good. It turned into a powdery old lady smell on me, and it was nuclear to boot. I washed it off twice and my wife was still complaining that it smelled terrible.
15th March, 2018

Red Tobacco by Mancera

Red Tobacco is quite enjoyable. It comes on strong, and stays strong on my skin for over 10 hours...longer on clothing. It does smell like cinnamon and tobacco. As mentioned there is a sweet fruit note in the opening as well. This fragrance is nuclear and should not be oversprayed, or you could choke someone out. I quite enjoy this one...
14th March, 2018

Eau Sacrée by Heeley

Eau Sacree is superb. I have come to recognize that frankincense and olibanum are at the top of my fragrance enjoyment list, and Eau Sacree has hit the perfect "sweet spot" for me. Obviously, it is not a sweet fragrance, I just mean it hits every possible mark of enjoyment for me from a fragrance. Resinous and woody just doesn't do this beautiful fragrance justice! I honestly love everything about it!!! The mixture of notes is blended perfectly, and I don't think I could enjoy another fragrance any more than I am this one. A must have for me!
11th March, 2018

Esprit du Tigre / Spirit of the Tiger by Heeley

A beautiful clear and clean mintiness in the opening that transitions into an excellent clove and cinnamon. I got terrible longevity and sillage with the little dabber sample I've got. This is much nicer and more transparent than Tiger Balm and smells like a high quality, well blended fragrance, not like a cream based medicinal balm. I would wear this a lot if I can get better performance out of it with a full spray bottle. I loved it while it lasted!
09th March, 2018

Wild Fern by Geo F Trumper

Opening is excellent and smells very similar to English Fern by Penhaligons. The dry down however is different and much smoother in nature as opposed to sharp like the opening. I've heard some say this drys down into a shampoo smell, but I actually love this all the way through from start to finish. It does loose steam faster than I'd like it to, and when it gets into the dry down it is a very close skin scent, but it is wonderful! Definitely full bottle worthy in my book.
06th March, 2018