Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Scent Detective

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Total Reviews: 277

Room 237 by Bruno Fazzolari

Hmm...okay let's see. Modeler's glue...check. suntan lotion...check. Alright, there ya have it...Room 237. This is strange, but I'm sure that's what BF was going for when he created this, "Shining" fragrance. Not my thing, but there's some who might like it. As already stated, the synthetic nature is off putting and takes this into the novelty arena in my book. Neutral for me.
15th May, 2018

Indolis by Areej le Doré

Right off the bat there is a nice white floral. However, I am also picking up spices. I know the ginger and olibanum are listed in the mids, but I am getting them after 15 minutes on my skin and I love it! A hint of lime as well, which pleases me greatly! Dare I say I love Indolis so far? I didn't think I would based on the comments I've seen that it's just basically a white floral, but there is much, much more going on for me in this first wearing. Something weird is that I showered with Dove soap this morning and the Indolis is mixing with the smell of the Dove soap, and the outcome is rather intoxicating! I think I'm going to need at least a nice decant of Indolis! I'm so grateful there's no musk in this one, as I love it just the way it is!
05th May, 2018

Douro Eau de Portugal / Lords by Penhaligon's

The opening smells like lemon lime Kool-Aid. It's as bright and cheery as the beginning of summer vacation, after a long winter of school work and indoors. I've only worn it twice so far, but this is a wonderful, fresh fragrance that could use a little boost with regards to longevity and sillage, but that doesn't lessen my enjoyment of Douro. I like it well enough to invest in a back-up bottle.
29th April, 2018
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An Air of Despair by Imaginary Authors

An Air of Despair was the perfect fragrance to wear today. This is an excellent fragrance, filled with cedar and saffron. The saffron is quite noticeable in the dry down, but it also has a bit of sweetness that reminds me of a brown sugary glaze with saffron. Quite delectable. Remarkable sillage and longevity on my skin. Super enjoyable wear, and fit my mood today as I had to do some heavy things at work. The "sadness accord" seemed to do it's work well. Seriously though, this is a winner in my book!
20th April, 2018

Five by Bruno Fazzolari

The opening of Five is a Ten! So fresh and sweet, in a good way that is instantly cheerful! I'd like to give Bruno Fazzolari "five," man. In fact, I'd like to give him a high "five!" Five also has excellent longevity! I put this on at 8:00 AM, and it's still a skin scent at 11:30 PM, fifteen and a half hours later! This is a definite keeper! I love the green, oakmoss like vibe from the rosemary and the "sweet woods," whatever those are. There is definitely a mineralic note that develops over time, but it didn't detract from the excellent transition of this fragrance's dry down today. I remember that the mineralic note bothered me a bit more the first time I wore it, but today's wearing was as near perfect as I could have hoped for. What a great fragrance! Highly recommended!
17th April, 2018

Onsen Wood by Madhat Scents

I like this one, but it has an interesting element that almost reminds me of smoked meat. The woody presence of hinoki is one element I enjoy a lot, but the heated, smoke like vibe reminds me of the heated lava rock in a sauna, but with slabs of beef drying over the top of the rocks. Interesting fragrance that I'll wear many more times as I try to figure out exactly what I'm smelling.
10th April, 2018

Rosa Resin Extrait de Parfum by Madhat Scents

My favorite male rose scent. Very deep resin presence with excellent spices as well. I've only worn it twice so far, but I've enjoyed it very much. I'll update my review after a few more wears, but I really love this one, and highly recommend it to anyone searching for an excellent men's rose fragrance.
10th April, 2018

Monocle Scent Two: Laurel by Comme des Garçons

Monocle Scent Two: Laurel is an excellent peppery green fragrance. As has been mentioned, it has a very dry aura, with a light sillage trail. Perhaps too light, but that's the only negative for me with this scent. I love the bitter green vibe that runs in the same vein as Profumum's Victrix, and D.S. & Durga's Boston Ivy, but Laurel is not as "sharp" in character as Victrix, and is not off putting to me, as is Boston Ivy. My daughter said it sort of smelled like lettuce, but in a good way. I thought that was funny, but perhaps more arugula than iceberg because of the peppery nature of the scent. I could see myself wearing this daily at the office for a week at a time. It's refreshing, but becomes a skin scent rather quickly, so as to not be overwhelming to co-workers. Two thumbs up for me on Monocle Scent Two: Laurel.
07th April, 2018

Resin Sacra by Tom Daxon

I'm a huge fan of frankincense/olibanum. I also love Myrrh. Resin Sacra by Tom Daxon does have a slight incense vibe towards to beginning of the wear, but not enough for me. Not sure what "suede" frankincense is, but it's very apparent to me that I prefer the regular version by a wide margin. Honestly, Resin Sacra begins to remind me more of YSL's L'Homme during the latter parts of the dry down. It's not a bad fragrance per se, just not something I'd invest it. Neutral for me.
07th April, 2018

Coromandel Eau de Parfum by Chanel

First of all, I've wanted to try this for a while and finally got some. I thought I was getting the EDT, but only because I'm blind, (not literally, just figuratively), so what I am wearing is the EDP, and I'm wondering if I'd like the EDT better? Is the patchouli more dominant in the EDT? Anyone whose tried both, please chime in. Anyway, this is well made, and definitely has the Chanel baseline DNA. Perhaps a bit too feminine for my taste, but I put one small spray on my wrist and then just a tiny dab behind each ear, and it actually grew on me as the day progressed. It's pretty fresh and nice. Coromandel has the "make-up" smell to me, similar to Dior Homme, but seems fresher as well. The 10 mils I have will probably last me for 10 years at the rate one days wear went today. It's potent and lasts a long time. I wouldn't ever wear more than I did today, as it has excellent sillage, and lasts all day and into the night. Excellent fragrance by Chanel and would smell amazing on a woman, that's for sure.
30th March, 2018

Chypre Mousse (new) by Oriza L. Legrand

Every scent I've tried so far from Orzia L. Legrand is work. It's an effort to find something to like. Chypre Mousse is another fail for me...just terrible. It does smell like melted plastic as Possum Pie said. I honestly have been trying to like something about one of the scents from this house, but so far it's been virtually pointless. Violets du Czar almost dried into something I could stand wearing, but again, this house is a lot of work. Their scents smell like old, decayed efforts at perfumery from long ago that were discovered in a run down mansion in humid New Orleans. The old decayed and decimated note profiles smell like they'd be right at home on the dried up skin of a zombie. Thumbs down for me.
29th March, 2018

LAVS by Unum

Incense fragrances are some of my very favorite. LAVS is a great one. I'd love to get a bottle some day. It's darker than many incense frags on the market, but it's rich and excellent. I have other favorite incense fragrances, and LAVS would be a great one to have in rotation. It is on the dark and cold side of things, but the olibanum note is strong and true...love it!
24th March, 2018

Phoenicia by Heeley

Highest recommendation from me for Phoenicia. This is incredibly well made as well as incredibly refined. I'm coming to love the house of Heeley more with each fragrance I try. Phoenicia is a must have for me. Rich, incense laden, woody, opulent, with a hint of dried fruit, but in a classy, understated way. I absolutely love this fragrance and will purchase it as soon as I may. James Heeley is an excellent perfumer folks...
22nd March, 2018
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Vikt by Slumberhouse

Love at first sniff!!! What an amazing fragrance! The main accord is a wonderful anise/licorice note that is the perfect level of spicy hotness, incredible! This is blended so wonderfully with balsamic and conifer notes that bring a dusky mellowness, while heightening the clear, piercing nature of the anise and the conifer at the same time. Brilliant blending and execution in my opinion. I love Rive Gauche Pour Homme, but the star anise note is very piercing in RGPH. In Vikt, it is perfectly balanced. This has moved way up my personal faves list! There is a slight hay like note in the early development of Vikt that isn't problematic for me, and was only slightly noticeable for a while. I don't smell it now at 7 hours in since application. I just realized that there is something about Vikt that reminds me of Noir Anthracite by TF. Interesting. Vikt became a skin scent on me at about the 5 hour mark, but the longevity was excellent, and I was still enjoying it 14 hours after application. This is my first wearing, so I'm looking forward to more opportunities to enjoy this excellent fragrance. Thumbs way up for Vikt!
22nd March, 2018

Replica Jazz Club by Martin Margiela

I agree with manicboy. This starts out okay, almost barbershop with rum, but it becomes a convoluted mess that just smells not good. It turned into a powdery old lady smell on me, and it was nuclear to boot. I washed it off twice and my wife was still complaining that it smelled terrible.
15th March, 2018

Red Tobacco by Mancera

Red Tobacco is quite enjoyable. It comes on strong, and stays strong on my skin for over 10 hours...longer on clothing. It does smell like cinnamon and tobacco. As mentioned there is a sweet fruit note in the opening as well. This fragrance is nuclear and should not be oversprayed, or you could choke someone out. I quite enjoy this one...
14th March, 2018

Eau Sacrée by Heeley

Eau Sacree is superb. I have come to recognize that frankincense and olibanum are at the top of my fragrance enjoyment list, and Eau Sacree has hit the perfect "sweet spot" for me. Obviously, it is not a sweet fragrance, I just mean it hits every possible mark of enjoyment for me from a fragrance. Resinous and woody just doesn't do this beautiful fragrance justice! I honestly love everything about it!!! The mixture of notes is blended perfectly, and I don't think I could enjoy another fragrance any more than I am this one. A must have for me!
11th March, 2018

Esprit du Tigre / Spirit of the Tiger by Heeley

A beautiful clear and clean mintiness in the opening that transitions into an excellent clove and cinnamon. I got terrible longevity and sillage with the little dabber sample I've got. This is much nicer and more transparent than Tiger Balm and smells like a high quality, well blended fragrance, not like a cream based medicinal balm. I would wear this a lot if I can get better performance out of it with a full spray bottle. I loved it while it lasted!
09th March, 2018

Wild Fern by Geo F Trumper

Opening is excellent and smells very similar to English Fern by Penhaligons. The dry down however is different and much smoother in nature as opposed to sharp like the opening. I've heard some say this drys down into a shampoo smell, but I actually love this all the way through from start to finish. It does loose steam faster than I'd like it to, and when it gets into the dry down it is a very close skin scent, but it is wonderful! Definitely full bottle worthy in my book.
06th March, 2018

Pot Pourri by Santa Maria Novella

The flagship of the Santa Maria Novella line? That is what it seems. Pot Pourri is a brilliant combination of notes that appeals highly to my sensibilities. I smell spices, resins, and eucalyptus. I know there are many other notes, including some florals, but the blending is superb. This is a fragrance from another age, and is a definite step back in time. There is a medicinal quality, which lends to that old time feel. This is what I think Richard Collier would have bought in a shop to put on when he was trying to get himself put together to meet Elise McKenna when he traveled back to the past. An excellent fragrance that I will enjoy for many years to come. Thanks to Grungevig for his input on this fragrance and the Santa Maria Novella line. A great house with many gems.
04th March, 2018

Ummagumma by Bruno Fazzolari

Ummagumma is a triumph in my book. The sum of it's parts makes for a completely enjoyable fragrance experience.

The opening starts with the best chocolate cake, or cupcake note I've yet to encounter in perfumery. It's a rich and decadent chocolate note that smells as densely chocolate as a super dense piece of cake you buy at a fancy restaurant. You know the cake. One piece weighs about a pound and costs several pounds.

This chocolate fest transitions pretty quickly into a saffron note that is pretty prominent to my nose. This brings on an almost animalic quality to Ummagumma, but here's the triumph part for me. I actually enjoyed this and wasn't overwhelmed like I generally am with the super animalic, musk type fragrances that many love, but I just can't get into. Rather than smelling like I'm waiving a piece of chocolate cake under my nose while taking a tour of the mink farm, Ummagumma smells chocolatey, with a slight musky kick, but it's blended so amazingly well at just the right levels in my opinion. Ummagumma smells different from a distance than it does nose to wrist once the saffron kicks it up a few notches. The saffron is still present in the dry down, but it mellows as the sandalwood, cedar, frankincense and labdanum bring on some of my favorite notes. The blending of this fragrance and the overall composition is so impressive to me. I know I'm not an expert, but the more fragrances I wear, and the more I spend time with different fragrances, I feel like I'm at least getting a base line feel for some of the amazing perfumers and their creations. This is my first dive into the art of Bruno Fazzalori, and I've got to say that he has an amazing fragrance in Ummagumma. It's special from start to finish and I just want to congratulate him for such a fine work of art! Thank you Bruno!
03rd March, 2018

Absinth by Nasomatto

This smells really great! I'm not familiar with the drink Absinthe, so I don't know for sure how accurate this fragrance is, but I can definitely smell some likeness with L'Artisian Parfumers Fou d' Absinthe, especially in the opening. I will say that I believe this Nasomatto version of Absinthe smells even better than the LAP version however. This is nice and woodsy, and I love the woods! Absinth also has better longevity than Fou d' Absinthe on my skin, which matters to me. The dry down smells like vetiver...specifically like Chanel's Sycomore, with the Absinthe aura hanging about instead of any smokiness. This is just a very enjoyable wear from start to finish. Absinth costs over $6.00/mil US however, so it's definitely not cheap.
28th February, 2018

Rêve d'Ossian (new) by Oriza L. Legrand

Old smelling. Reve d' Ossian smells of old things...nasty old things, like the aldehydes are actually, "formaldehydes." This smells like it was produced somewhere between 1820 and 1840, then left to rot. In fact, Reve d' Ossian brought to mind Miss Havesham's wedding from Dicken's Great Expectations. I had great expectations for this fragrance, but they walked off and left me at the opening notes. Like Miss Havesham, RDO sat there going first stagnant, then fetid, then putrid and I was driven mad over time. A true stew of a missed opportunity. I guess I'll try it one more time to see if I'm being unfair, but at this point I'm not looking forward to it.
27th February, 2018

Patchouli by Santa Maria Novella

I smell turpentine with a herbaceous accord just behind it. There is an almost jamminess in the opening of SMN Patchouli, sort of like the jamminess of a bottle of jalapeño jam, only with patchouli. There is almost a sweetness to the turpentine vibe in the opening, but it only last for a short moment. I don't smell dirt as some have mentioned, but I do pick up the mustiness mentioned by others. I can see myself wearing this fragrance often...it's right up my alley...very green! I've only got the dabber sample, so I can't speak for the performance when sprayed, but the longevity and sillage aren't super impressive from the dabbed on sample. I do appreciate what I am smelling however. Now, 3 hours later, I still love the very faint smell I'm picking up on my wrist. The turps smell is there, but has settled down and I'm getting a very enjoyable greenness. There is also the smell of unearthed roots. I still don't smell, "dirt" per se. The turps note is still there and I do smell a rooty, earthiness. The longer I wear this, the more I, "dig" it. :-)

The fragrances I've tried so far from Santa Maria Novella have all felt like they are from the past approximately, 1900 to 1910 or so. But, they have all been very accessible for me. They are excellent fragrances that I've absolutely loved so far! All very wearable for me, and very well blended and presented. Thumbs way up!

27th February, 2018

Marescialla by Santa Maria Novella

Opens with a slightly astringent edge that dies down very quickly, leaving a nice, spicy fume. Old world vibe that is throughly enjoyable "and" wearable. Some might disagree, but this is very easy for me to wear a fragrance like this. Marescialla turned into a skin scent on me with 6 sprays in about 4 hours. I reapplied in the afternoon and it stuck around for about another 4 hours. Another excellent SMN fragrance in my book!
27th February, 2018

Opoponax by Santa Maria Novella

Resinous, fresh, spicy, clean. An amazing fragrance in my opinion...just amazing. Opoponax feels natural, and real. I put this on, and felt like I "naturally" smelled really good.

Like I had stumbled upon something that occurred in nature and put it on my skin. A pocket of resin in a tree that I scooped out on my fingers and brought up to my nose, eyes widening and a smile spreading across my face. "This, this is what I want to smell like,"and I rubbed it on my chest, then my jaw line and wrists.

Okay, back to the real world. Seriously though, I'm thankful that Grungevig introduced me to it, and that SMN makes this wonderful fragrance. I will now enjoy it for as long as it is produced. Bravisimo!
24th February, 2018

L'Homme by Yves Saint Laurent

YSL L'Homme smells like a lot of other designer men's fragrances...but, I still like it. It's smooth and doesn't have a chemistry set edge to it. It feels like a good designer men's fragrance, not like it's the imitation of a good designer men's fragrance if that makes any sense. The tonka and violet are dominant notes in this frag in my opinion, and give this a decent barbershop vibe that I enjoy. It's got a slightly dirtier edge than some of my very favorite barbershop frags, possibly from the ginger note? I have a nice sample that should last me a while, but I would consider a full bottle depending on price.
25th January, 2018

Beach Hut Man by Amouage

Mmm...this has the nicest fresh mint leaf opening I've found yet! It is crisp and beautiful...just like crushing the mint leaf under your nose! As time passes, Beach Hut Man takes on a sweet boozy aspect that smells nice. It has a touch of the "dryer sheet" synthetic aspect I find in Saville Row by Richard James, but I love SR, and I'm enjoying Beach Hut Man as well. About the name though...why Beach Hut Man? This smells nothing like any beach I've ever been on. What is does is bring another nice fresh fragrance on to my wish list. I'll be waiting until this comes down in price before purchasing though.
16th January, 2018

Replica At the Barber's by Martin Margiela

This is amazing! This smells EXACTLY like a trip to the barbershop smelled when I was a boy. I've been trying a lot of barbershop fragrances, and while my favorite one so far has been Invasion Barbare by Parfums MDCI, Replica at the Barber's by Martin Margiela smells the most like my barbershop experiences over the years. This is such an enjoyable fragrance experience for me. It's transported me back to my Dad taking me to the barbershop as a kid. I'm so grateful I tried this fragrance...two thumbs way up!
09th January, 2018

Tom Ford Noir Anthracite by Tom Ford

Updated Review:

Wore this again today, and it smells really nice. Very green, but with the mineralic edge of anthracite, which is very dense coal. I'd take this lump of coal in my sock every year if Santa chose to bring it to me! Afraid I'm going to need the full bottle treatment! This is a big thumbs up for me!


I like it. But, it's different than I was expecting. I had heard several people say this was a tribute to oakmoss, and if you liked the original Polo, you'd like TF Noir Anthracite. Well...this reminds me more of Bulgari Black than it does Polo. However, that is a first impression, and I need to wear Anthracite several more times before I get a good feel. I also need to revisit Bulgari Black, because it's been a while and I may be way off. TFNA does have a black charcoal vibe that reminded me of the rubber note of BB. I'm going to compare them because i know that there will probably be more differences than similarities.
07th January, 2018 (last edited: 13th January, 2018)