Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Cevenol

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Total Reviews: 45

Figaro Lanvin by Lanvin

Figaro feels like a flanker to the original Monsieur Lanvin, much more so than the Monsieur Lanvin Vetyver which feels more like its own creation and less like a flanker. The three share the same MASSIVE civet, especially Vetyver which is stupid urinous (but delicious)
This one has an awesome cedar/woody heart where the sandalwood is in the original. There's also a touch of sweetness which I thought might be vanilla at first but now I wonder if it's not a facet of amber. Of course the cedar is nothing like a lot of today's "synthdar"lumberyard bombs, this is 60's subtle smoothness and understatement so it might feel too derivative of the original if you own and love it.
I love all of them.
12th January, 2019

Yardley Original by Yardley

Mysticman's review below is spot on.
Listed here from 1992 but there was one before it seems. It is aromatic and rather full but retains an Eau de Cologne feel, thanks to a big and beautiful Neroli top, it feels like a Cologne Russe really with the amber, it's also pretty short lived
Lovely
05th January, 2019 (last edited: 12th January, 2019)

Sport Fragrance by Etienne Aigner

Needless to say we are far away from today's or even twenty years ago's Sport fragrances.

I was hoping for an obscure gem at a very affordable price ...Not so sadly. Don't get me wrong it's a good citrus chypre nevertheless, opens with a fresh sour lemon, interesting and well done with good staying power, a note I had never encountered before that I suspect could be close to Monsieur Balmain that I've never smelt, obviously I could be wrong.
Unfortunately despite being interesting I can't shake associations with lemon cleaning products, particularly Paic citron a dishwashing liquid maybe familiar to europeans. That said I haven't smelled it either in 25 years so there's that too.
The fresh lemon stays present for almost two hours, then the scent is reminiscent of chypres such as Capucci pour Homme and Armani pour Homme. Less bitter than the former and with a drop of vanilla added, woodier as well.
It's been growing on me I've enjoyed it more and more on subsequent wears my initial expectations were too high is all.
29th December, 2018 (last edited: 30th December, 2018)
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Bugatti (original) by Etorre Bugatti

I find Purecaramel's Sauternes wine analogy apt and judicious.
Wonderfull scent
20th December, 2018

Monsieur Lanvin by Lanvin

Basically everything I love, great citrus/green tops, subtle flowers and a generous splash of civet, finally coalescing into one of the finest sandalwood shaving soap accord I've experienced so far this side of Rive Gauche pour homme.
Great
19th December, 2018 (last edited: 12th January, 2019)

Vetyverio Eau de Toilette by Diptyque

Entirely unsatisfactory as a vetiver centric fragrance as well as a scent. The vetiver somewhat hardly noticeable, generic fruity shampoo middle, boring cedar base and shockingly weak performance overall.
03rd December, 2018

Eau de Balenciaga Lavande by Balenciaga

Same ballpark as Ho Hang, more lavander and vanilla. There's a"warmer" feel to it from the carnation tonka vanilla and combined with lemon gives it a subtle "edible" feel . Good old school barbershop vibe. Ho Hang is a much better scent altogether but this scratches the same itch and will stretch my treasured bottles.
The bottle I have is after shave compared side by side with Ho Hang aftershave
01st December, 2018

Fougère d'Argent by Tom Ford

All I smell is woodyambers/norlimbanol/karmawood, call it agikalarshmood or whatever , smoother than the usuals but stll very much derivative . I don’t dig it.
Performance is tepid at best.
NO
29th November, 2018 (last edited: 30th November, 2018)

222 by Le Galion

Favorite sandalwood so far, “cracked” rough leather, smoke (restrained).
I love it. I have struggled to find a sandalwood for the collection, this will probably be it
29th November, 2018

Luna Rossa Carbon by Prada

This is just awful, why do I keep trying these things. Smells like.. I don’t know man...
16th November, 2018

Nobile Royalty by Alexander De Costa

Well yes it is 80% there compared to Nobile, but what is missing makes all the difference, it's like a botched reformulation harsher yes, flatter too...Nobile feels more nuanced, has more depth smoothness and originality, Royalty is noticeably less mossy and floral. There is the addition of a light tobacco that pulls it in the direction of Montana parfum d'Homme but ends up being not nearly as good either.
Not a replacement for Nobile for me and Montana is very good and can be had for peanuts. I would just go for that for now.
13th November, 2018

Iquitos by Alain Delon

I get Doll's head and rose scented carpet powder cleaner...but in a really really good way!
It's giving me serious 80's flashbacks as a masculine counterpart to the big roses (Diva, Coco etc..) my five fabulous aunties would baths in at the time.
23rd October, 2018 (last edited: 05th November, 2018)

Jazz Prestige by Yves Saint Laurent

I approached Prestige with some trepidation, I'm not a fan of 90's fresh fougeres, particularly ozonic,aquatic, fruity "fresh" ones such as Live Jazz for example and I passed over quite a few opportunities to have it join the collection because of that. Thankfully no aqua here and I really enjoyed a test run of Prestige. What we have here is a fougere that was way ahead of its time as it is not at all dissimilar in feel to the kind that's been put out for a number of years by niche houses such as L'Art de la Guerre or Fou d'Absinthe, pretty successful attempts to modernize the ol' fougere with different uncommon top notes and moss replacement. But what makes this a real winner for me is that the playful notes are grounded in now banned true naturals in the base something that has always been a let down for me in the two previously mentioned scents for example.
A real winner and I'm quite happy to have found it at a very affordable price considering the absurd prices it commands on the secondary market .
23rd October, 2018
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Moschino pour Homme by Moschino

Indeed a wonderful chypre, I only wore Bel Ami vintage twice but I didn't get any overwhelming similarities. What makes this unique to me is the shock full amount of resins and amber which gives Moschino a middle eastern meets classical european vibe and hence the occasional oriental references that pop up here and there,
I love it best on the coldest days of the year, where the resins shine and balms.
It has crept up in price on secondary market but it can still be found at decent prices with a little digging.
When I get to trimming the collection this will stay for sure.
08th October, 2018

Bleu de Chanel Parfum by Chanel

For sure my favorite of the three, which is not saying much since I dislike both the edt and edp. It opens with a very natural grapefruit, already I should be turned off, not big on grapefruit especially since it's been so played out for a number of years most often quite cheaply, but here Chanel quality nothing to complain about. Soon the lavender gets upfront with the same drugstore aftershave gone upscale (as Zealot observes) as can be found in MFK Masculin Pluriel, at this stage they smell quite similar from what I can remember. After a couple hours I get more sandalwood and vetiver a la Sycomore. Where is the Bleu you might ask? It hovers above and along quite pleasantly, stripped of its most obnoxious traits (woody ambers overdose) for old school dudes such as myself
I like Masculin Pluriel and love Sycomore and I enjoyed Bleu Parfum, not quite sold though, it's available in 50 so I might plonk the 100.
01st October, 2018

Ferrari Leather Essence by Ferrari

Good stuff , and for the price an excellent deal, I get more spices then leather really. Cinnamon, cloves.
The sweetness is under control as well.
Egoist and Carven Homme come to mind.
15th September, 2018

Insensé by Givenchy

Insense is a very frustrating fragrance to me. It has one of the best openings ever, a fantastic lily of the valley note, (one of my favorite flower that kept me entranced as a kid and now) which combined with the aldehydes and the coniferous notes makes a highly original, satisfying experience. Add to that the mastic (lentiscus) another delightful scented memory from growing up in the south of France, and I just love it. For a couple of hours... After which It just starts to feel grating and three hours in I just HAVE to have it off. It makes me feel just about sick.
It’s also very potent so even minimal application tend to yield the same result.
The very best and very worst in the same scent, something unique to Insense in my limited experience.
04th September, 2018

Grand Soir by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Stomach turning, synth wood overdose made worst combined with sugar sweet overload whatever amber could have been sunked and drowned.
26th August, 2018

Eau Sauvage by Christian Dior

THE icon of male french perfumery, whether you enjoy it or not, many have exhorted its beauty here and elsewhere and I won't add to it.
It's a french cultural institution, sitting at number 4 in sales as I'm writing this (2018), behind Bleu, Sauvage and Terre, it says a lot considering its 1966 launch that it's still this popular having survived and thrived through the power 80's, ghastly ozonic 90's, and the current "blue" chemical spill aka spiky """woods""". It can still be smelled everywhere in France, in the subway, in line at the boulangerie etc.. I sincerely hope it'll still be in the top 5, 50 years from now sitting right under whatever the ' parfums du jour' are
Vive Eau Sauvage
16th August, 2018

Vetyver Lanvin (original) by Lanvin

Heartbreakingly beautiful. . Opens hesperedic with a LOT of civet that takes no prisoners. Give it 5 mn and let the symphony begin ( just as Rbaker below describes better than I could once again, a fine nose) or rather the Orchestre de Chambre's Suite, since there is no bombast. A citrus chypre like scent of the highest quality, where vetiver takes center stage.
03rd August, 2018 (last edited: 08th August, 2018)

Mont St Michel Eau de Cologne L'Originale by Mont St Michel

The smell of France in the 80's...of workers on their Sunday best, farmers, school teachers, masons and lunch ladies.
Memories flooded back..just a nice EDC, a staple of French toilette.
Not something I can wear, associated with provincial France, middle school dormitories, 30 a room, old school.
If you want to smell or smell like "vieille France."
02nd August, 2018

Ho Hang by Balenciaga

Essentially to me an old school barbershop fougere, arching back to Clubman's or Canoe's powderyness, top notch ingredients and blending, refined and understated, it is a wonderful traditional men's "cologne".
Classical perfumery at its best.

As an anecdote and according to one old Balenciaga ad it was also sold as unisex beating Chanel Boy which it resembles by 45 years.
30th July, 2018

Uomo by Salvatore Ferragamo

Extremely nasty modern hodgepodge aggregate of the worst designer modern masculine synthetic aromchems tendencies of the moment.
Avoid at all costs.
To be noted I’m a moss, cat’s arse and beaver sack type ..
25th July, 2018

Encre Noire by Lalique

Too much Iso for me. I can see the appeal though.
Sycomore is in another league altogether
14th July, 2018

Black Jeans by Versace

Good barbershop fougere of the "nugere" type. Not much longevity. Rive Gauche or Sartorial do it better in my opinion.
01st July, 2018

Bal à Versailles by Jean Desprez

I own a 70's bath oil, that I dab as one would extrait and it is superb, great evolution, the flowers, the powder, resins, vanilla, leather all is of great quality, deep and airy a the same time, shimmering , it lasts forever and even gets more intense in the first few hours. But what anchors, enhances and sublimes is the civet.
Eye rollingly scentual with sex
29th June, 2018

Arpège pour Homme by Lanvin

I had high expectations for this from the many good reviews, but the arsh synth woods killed it for me in a hurry, I have very little tolerance for them, I'm part of a minority in that regard (otherwise they wouldn't infest just about everything nowadays).
The dry down is pretty good. For that sweet vanilla masculine of that time I go for L'instant which is truly great
29th June, 2018

Gianfranco Ferré for Man by Gianfranco Ferré

As others have noted the opening is quite unsettling to me as well, sharp citus (petigrain, bergamotte?) and a coniferous aspect (fir?) that I find a bit jarring. I do like sharp citrus tops such as in R de Capucci or Nobile but here it doesn't work for me. However and fortunately it gets better and better in it's evolution, a beautiful leather chypre soon emerges that can hold its own with the best of them.
Past the tops, GFM is excellent and will be in regular rotation, it offers some of the best elements of the genre in a "generic" kind of way, without some of the more unique aspects that makes others of its classe more unique (Maxim's, Macassar, Moschino for example) and that makes it an easy reach.
It also has the added benefit that it seems to be an easy and affordable vintage find.
.

25th June, 2018

Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent

In vintage, possibly the greatest achievement in male perfumery of all time.
Seriouslish
23rd June, 2018

Capucci pour Homme by Roberto Capucci

Very good, a more bitter aromatic/ herbal Eau Sauvage / Monsieur de Givenchy, closer to Givenchy actually. I own both but this is sufficiently different to join the collection, I am a big fan of the genre though.
More Mediterranean and rugged than both, where Givenchy and Dior are dapper Parisians, Capucci is a stylish Napolitano. Great moss too.
Edit, actually closer still to Armani pour Homme which falls in line with that Iralian analogy
22nd June, 2018 (last edited: 02nd September, 2018)