Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Cauda Pavonis

Total Reviews: 9

Panda (2017) by Zoologist Perfumes

Fruity aquatic. Fairly pedestrian; my least favorite so far from this house. Even with that it's still head and shoulders above most pedestrian fragrances. I guess this is supposed a Panda eating an apple in a flower filled bamboo forest?? Clean and green, with a zippy tartness from the green apple. Cool and airy. Very Japanese in style, by which I mean this is the kind of fragrance Japanese companies use in their soap/ deodorant/ personal grooming products. It also reminds me of those 90's "fresh" fragrances. Panda is actually quite pleasant and likeable, just boring. It's happy and uplifting though, and if that's what you want you could do far worse.
28th December, 2017

Not a Perfume by Juliette Has a Gun

Not a Perfume is a kind of non existent perfume - I only really get a musky, detergenty notion of a perfume, as if it's a part of a perfume rather than the whole thing. I'm kind of conflicted here; On the one hand, it feels like a cheap publicity stunt. On the other, I find that I keep trying to smell it after spraying. It's a typical JHaG "transparent" and inoffensive little thing... and yet, unlike with other JHaG fragrances, I keep coming back to it. I can't say I like it (not that I dislike it either - that's the problem, it doesn't feel like there's a "there" there) but I can't stop sniffing at it. Don't be surprised if you love it or hate it but this is the first JHaG fragrance that I think should be tried.
03rd June, 2016

Sa Majesté la Rose by Serge Lutens

Opens as a beautiful, natural tea rose; tart with a touch of powder and fruitiness. A pure, almost transparent rose. Clean and intense, green with a touch of pepper far in the background. Something about it reminds me of clean, white laundry blowing in a breeze. An early summer rose rising out of cool grass. Sillage is good - I don't normally get comments on my perfumes but my co-worker noticed it... and asked what it was she liked it so much. Pretty linear, although well into the drydown the green became more intense and a tad musty. Not particularly complex or interesting but a well structured, natural rose soliflore. Pure but elegant and refined.
28th April, 2016
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1740 Marquis de Sade by Histoires de Parfums

Smoky, flower burst in opening immediately becomes leather, sweet pipe tobacco, sandalwood, and rum. Really lovely - I love leather and I love tobacco and they're done beautifully here - but not very nasty. This smells like the refined room of a gentleman of great taste and wealth. Agree with a previous commenter that this is Mr. Darcy more than the Marquis. After a while I get a spices and burnt sugar along with a bit of soap. As it dries down a spicy fruit compote note starts to develop; jammy but not overly sweet - the leather's disappeared somewhere, sadly. Pretty big sillage; as usual, I overdid it because I'm used to niche fragrances tending to be pretty quiet but this is so gorgeous that I don't even care. It does quiet down after an hour, though. A big, beautiful, expansive perfume; confident without being brash, rich but not flashy. Uplifting and comforting in equal measure.
27th April, 2016

Vitriol d'Oeillet by Serge Lutens

A cool, intense violet; hints of powder and blueberry (a cool colored berry). Sweet. Even though it's cool there's a vanilla note in there. Little old lady wearing powder and violet perfume. Very interesting fragrance - there's something that almost itches the nose (the pepper?), slightly off-putting but unusual and fascinating. Dries down to soft, spicy powder - it warms up a touch but still on the cool side. Long lasting but in about 2 hours fades until only detectable on being very close to the wrist.
16th March, 2016

Carnal Flower by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Potent, heady jasmine opening. Immediately calms down into flowery aldehyde (tuberose? green?). Neroli/orange blossom. Like actual fresh cut flowers from the greenness. Drydown pretty linear; aldehyde-like note softens a bit, more of a soft floral, but basically the same. Further drydown still fairly linear but a bit more of the green. After a couple of hours it's pretty faint but still present.
16th March, 2016

Jubilation XXV by Amouage

High, cool, clean opening with hint of fruity/spicy sweetness underneath. Sharp note of frankincense. Then still prominent sweetness tempered by dry woodiness and something mossy and green deep within the scent (oakmoss?). As it dries down the fougere comes to the foreground until it's very oakmossy with dry woods.
16th March, 2016

Aedes de Venustas (new) by Aedes de Venustas

Light, green, and fruity, but a delicate, watery fruit (starfruit?). A high, tart, almost pine-y smell in the background of opening. A touch of ginger in there somewhere. A hint of very light musk underneath (vetiver?). Vetiver comes more to the front during drydown - very green, garden-y smell (tomato leaves?) A nice summer fragrance.
16th March, 2016

Portrait of a Lady by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Delicate green fruity floral opening, lightly powdery. Sweet, powdery, and restrained. Rose and patchouli in elegant harmony - old fashioned scent. Reminds me of lilac. Eastern Orthodox church incense. Sophisticated but grounded - mature. It's lightness and elegance brings Japanese perfume to mind. As it dries down the incense comes more to the fore with a bit of a dirty, earthy note (like a centuries old Buddhist temple) in the background. Dries down after a couple of hours to a pale, earthy floral.
16th March, 2016