Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Melbourne Man

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Total Reviews: 32

Selperniku by January Scent Project

Sunshine and warmth from a bottle.
This is something that you don't expect, and i certainly did not expect the green/citric opening from the petitgrain and lemon to beautifully counter-balance the creamier sweetness of the apricot and butter. My el-fresco continental breakfast never smelled so good or inviting.
For me this has 3 distinct phases that work and blend well with ine another; the longest being the sumptuous buttery apricot heart.
Cypress and Juniper berries help keep this from gourmand territory and guide this composition through its development to a creamy warm woody/tobacco base. The use of saltiness in this also gives it the illusion of an extended skin scent. Some of the best skin you will smell.
10 plus hours longevity and excellent projection and sillage.
Wearable year round but would shine in the warmth.
16th August, 2017

Baccarat Rouge 540 by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Opening for this is very pretty and you certainly get a sense of solidified burnt sugar, crushed back into granules.
And then to my nose, not much else happens here. It is certainly different, but the one thing that makes this a no for me is something in the base. I will have to guess it is the fir balsam. I am getting something stale and sour and not enjoying it at all.
The way this thing was hyped last year may have contributed to my disappointment here.
Tested from official MFK sample purchased on website.
09th August, 2017

White Sandalwood by Goldfield & Banks

On me, the dominant accord here are rose and saffron, with the Australian sandalwood providing a beautiful creamy base for this floral heart. I get very little if any spice and a light amber deep in the drydown to stop things from ever getting to heady.
The quality if evident here as it smells very natural and longevity/sillage exceptional.
It is unisex with a slight feminine lean. For those who like something like Chanel's Egoiste without the heavy spice, i would recommend.
07th August, 2017
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Harem Rose by Fort and Manlé

A lovely white musk infiltrates this pink rose-dominated beginning. You still get green stem and buds that have yet to bloom. This is more delicate to me than this house's over rose dominated fragrance, Charlatan.
Harem Rose evokes purity that will potentially be exploited and mature into what Charlatan is. Charlatan, the mature adult who has been there and done that, Harem Rose, the innocent about to lose their innocence.
This develops nicely into a light woodiness, and i pick up what might be cedar, in young spring-time forest. I also get something akin to unripened fruit here in the middle.
As lovely as this scent is, i couldn't see myself wanting to wear this more than wanting to smell it on someone else.
06th August, 2017

Maduro by Fort and Manlé

To think of Maduro as just another sweet tobacco fragrance would be doing it injustice.
This opens with the juiciest of red apple notes, and somehow along with sweet pineapple and cinnamon, manages to give the illusion of a chocolate accord.
All this might sound to sweet to some, but it is perfectly pitched to then develop into a fluid rosey beeswax. For my nose, it is very similar to the beeswax you can find in Antaeus. As it does in many compositions, the rose accompanies us to the final transition where vetiver and patchouli add a tinge of green to this fresh, damp tobacco.
It isn't the Pure Havane sweet tobacco and not Havana spicy tobacco. This is new and this is quite a beautiful, complex scent eith plenty of depth.
06th August, 2017

Mr. Bojnokopff's Purple Hat by Fort and Manlé

Quite unique and mysterious to me, so it seems to have met its brief. I initially mainly get oud and a very natural lavender here, just like i would smell if i was holding a fresh cut bouquet.
After this, the gaiac wood introduces a mild smoky accord which also evokes a slightly skanky leather. Hours later just when you thought chocolate and vanilla didn't get the invite, there they appearin the waft of still lingering smoke, like an illusion.
Definitely a very impressive scent that will probably reveal more character with subsequent wearings, so definitely a must to sample first.
05th August, 2017

Confessions of a Garden Gnome by Fort and Manlé

I was lucky enough to grow up living in places with gardens large enough for a boy and his siblings to have hours of imagined adventure; and memories that hide in your subconscious until something teases them out.
In this case the Fort and Manle's Confessions of a Garden Gnome has penetrated my mind through my nose.
In a single wearing, you get sensations of sunny late winters where stepping from shade to sunshine warms your skin by several degrees. It opens with a singing violet leaf that stays in a high register guiding you through the seasons.
You get white floral early spring bouquets and already you get a sense of the chameleonic nature of the fragrance. When florals subside it's time for the ambergris, musk and patchouli to take over and represent the cooler months of the year. The birch here is more dry bark than tar, and you can almost smell the carpet of wet fallen leaves that is laid on the brick pavement.
If this was a painting it would be a Monet study of the same thing at different times of the year.
One of the best things i have smelled.
04th August, 2017

Oud Wood by Tom Ford

There is almost a suede-ish opening to Oud Wood, but from there it quickly transitions to beautifully polished daek wood like you would find in some kind of old library or study.
It is clean oud wood, i don't find anything "dirty" here, but what i do find is age. This scent feels like it was discovered in a flacon hidden away for centuries and over that time all the ingredients blended together that you can no longer distinguish individual notes, or maybe it is vecause i have a poorly developed nose.
The vetiver, cardamom and amber actually lend a sense of airyness to this that prevents it from getting heavy and i dont really get much sichuan pepper or vanilla. It is an ancient, distinguished scent and in my opinion the best in the private blend series.

31st July, 2017

L'Air du Desert Marocain by Tauer



This is the best you can hope for in a fragrance that evokes an imagined memory.
Beautiful petitgrain/lavender opening dressed down by the cumin morphing into a resinous jasmine accord.
Suddenly it gets spicy/dusty dry like you have left the oasis and are now smack bang in the desert proper.
The oakmoss cedar patchouli base is like the beautiful haunting soundtrack of a cinematic masterwork. There are no individual starring performers here but the greatest ensemble cast gathered together making this fragrance/film the epic masterpiece it is.
This is ever changing and evolving during its development but always maintains its continuity. Enigmatic, enchanting and exciting.
10/10
19th July, 2017

M7 Oud Absolu by Yves Saint Laurent

Only ever tried this iteration of M7 so i have no refernce re original.
This is one of the best smelling oud-dominant designers on the market. I especially love how the citrus-sweetish, chinotto opening develops into a patchouli/oud cooling middle. The trick is that it opens warm and develops to almost a cool minty patch within the first hour.
This i think makes it not just a cold weather scent, but wearable in most spring weather.
Eventually it transitions to a lovely syrupy, myrhh and oud combination.
It is a beautifully composed scent given the minimal accords used.
The one let down on my skin, is that i am luck to get 6 hours maximum longevity. Thus sits close to skin from the outset, and i find myself craving to get wafts of it as the day progresses.
At this point, i'll keep it in my colection because it lasts long enough for evening wear, and reasonably priced enough that i am not going to be stingy with sprays.

Scent: 8.5/10
Performance: 5/10
03rd July, 2017

Tom Ford Noir Extreme by Tom Ford

I find it difficult to describe this fragrance.
A couple of hours into wearing it i am wrapped in the warmth of the amber and vanilla, but it 's the opening that i wish would stick around.
Saffron, nutmeg and cardamomis such a lovely smooth spiciness rather than the alternative of a sharp citrus/peppery opening, and i think that is what this fragrance is boiled down to. Smoothness. It goes on like a warm, gooey, exotic dessert but never going too overboard on gourman elements. Perfect balance of oriental and gourmand.
Good longevity, enough projection (this is a proven compliment getter) and great for cold nights.
29th May, 2017

Bois du Portugal by Creed

When you break it down, this is a very simple fragrance when it comes to note breakdowns.
A bergamot that is the right balance of biterness and sweetness opens this up and almost works like your first coffee of the day in awakening your senses.
This citrus transitio s and blends perfectly with the always soothing lavender in the heart. What the lavender seems to do is carry the bergamot with it until we get to the sublime drydown of one of Creed's best. Cedar and creamy sandalwood dominate the base, all the while keeping remnants of the opening, and i think the ambergris is the thing binding it all together.
There are other fragrances in this general theme but here the ingredients smell like quality, and it's all blended beautifully while still picking out individual notes.
3 sprays maximum for this because i get 1w hours longevity very easily and it projects a few good feet for a couple of hours at least.
Not the most versatile, but i enjoyed it every single time.
28th May, 2017

Portraits : The Tragedy of Lord George by Penhaligon's

Tragedy of Lord George is one of Penhaligon’s Portrait Series released 2016.

$268 AUD can get you a 75 ml bottle of this. That is one of the better prices I’ve seen quoted.

Listed notes are brandy, amber (ambroxan), woody notes and tonka bean. Other sites also list shaving cream, which I do pick up.

I was keen to smell this because of the brandy, but boy was it a fleeting whiff in the opening. Brandy for about 30 seconds and then straight into a heart of, well, shaving cream. Not even really classy smelling shaving cream of the Rive Gauche variety, but cheap shaving cream. I got no real wood notes and now in the dry down all I get is a sickly, plasticky ambroxan and tonka puddle.

This was very disappointing from a house that I keep wanting to like, but apart from a couple of fragrances, has continued to disappoint.

Don’t let the impressive looking bottle and cap fool you, I think it’s meant to be a distraction from how cheap this fragrance actually smells.
16th May, 2017
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Millésime Impérial by Creed


Melbourne man
This one has been a sleeper for me.
First wears i didn't really notice it and thought i'd finish my decant and be done with MI.
But with each time i've worn it, the fragrance has revealed aspects of itself (that or probably my nose has developed ;)). Regardless, for me this is now an essential warm weather fragrance for me. Not for others though, because projection is not strong, but sometimes you want the fragrance to yourself.
Beautiful, exotic fruit blended with the right amount of mediterranean sea water and then thatdrydown. One of the loveliest clean musky drydowns i have in my collection.
My second favourite Creed behind GIT.
19th April, 2017

Grey Vetiver by Tom Ford

Grey Vetiver Eau de Parfum

This is a cool, mysterious, citrus-spicy wood.
It opens up with a boisterous lemon note, but as implied by the name, vetiver is the guest of honour at this party.
If we equate shades with temperature and determine that white is cold and black is hot; the ‘grey’ in the title is a perfect pitch for this fragrance.
The citrus, orrisroot, nutmeg and pimento provide the refreshments for the party; while the woods, oak moss and amber bring the warmth.
What you’re left with is a finely balanced fragrance that never becomes screechy or overpowering. This is why it’s perfect for both power dressing at the office or a casual weekend get-together. This can also work in a huge range of weather conditions, dressed up or dressed down. It will adapt to you.
One of the best warmer weather fragrances from Tom Ford; including the blue-bottled private blends.
This has layers if you get to know it.
One of the best introductions to vetiver.
28th March, 2017

Stash by Sarah Jessica Parker


I am only testing this on the back of my hand and don't have the other fragrance at hand to compare, but for some reason this brings Chanel's Egoiste to mind. Even if i later realise that it's nothing alike, i like this a very lot. Even though no sandalwood is listed, i get a nice creamy one about 30 minutes in, along with with the leather tip of a riding crop and a touch of booze thrown in. Great value for money at the moment ans the best celebrity scent i have smelled.
02nd March, 2017

Desert Rosewood by Goldfield & Banks

One of 4 fragrances from this new Australian house.
Desert Rosewood opens up with a burst of boozy amber and quickly settles into woody vanilla vibe.
But what i really like about this is that it is a dry sweetness, probably assisted by the cardamom note.
After about an hour this has settled nicely on the benzoin and rosewood base all the while with a hint of sharpness from something, maybe the listed mandarin and cardamom notes hanging around.
It may have been because i was sniffing them both the night before, but this is almost what you would get if a fragrance had the same bloodlines as both Chergui and L'air du desert Marocain. It certainly has the dry desert air vibe with a touch of sweetness.
4.5 out of 5
30th January, 2017

Philosykos by Diptyque

Firstly, this review is based on only a few wearings and now that my small sample is finished i really want to decide if i get more. At this point it's in the i don't really care if i wear this again.
The verdict is really more based on the fact that i do appear to be indifferent to the fig note because there is certainly a great representation of fig here.
The other big (and important) factor for me is that it is just a tad weak and performance is not enough for me to invest in this. I am wearing the edt and not even sure if there is an edp version, but still.
Others obviously love it and i definitely don't hate it. Just don't want it.
22nd January, 2017

Green Irish Tweed by Creed

I have gone from really really liking GIT to absolutely loving GIT.
For my nose, this scent has it all; lovely, evocative opening; green, sensual mids and almost a warm, sexy base.
I know that this is supposed to evoke green fields (doesn't need to be Ireland either), but what it conjurs for me is my boyhood summer days spent lying on the lush lawns of our local suburban swimming pool. Great fragrances reach into our subconscious and remind us of things that we thought were only imagined, but actually experienced.
I have received a compliment from someone 6 feet away, 6 hours into a wear, so sillage is there. I smell it on me after 10 hours.
Best thing is that it's versatile and i would wear this in any weather, for any occasion.
Icon.
19th January, 2017 (last edited: 13th March, 2017)

$CAM by Xyrena

I get nothing.
31st December, 2016

Virgin Island Water by Creed

Such an evocative scent.
Beautifully blended in a way that doesnt create a mess. You pick up the lime, transition to cocunut rum and then the rest of the dry dowwn is a day dream.
If only this could last longer so i could get wafts of paradise in my nostrils all day.
Overall 8/10
Longevity 4/10
20th November, 2016

Cedrat Boise by Mancera

For me, it's the sandalwood and jasmine notes that star after the initial, very pleasant citrus opening. I get very good performance from this and it's the type of scent i look forward to wearing when the occasion and mood suits.
After several wears of this, it is definitely a keeper in my collection and if it was a choice between a bottle of this or a bottle of Aventus, it's this.
19th November, 2016 (last edited: 29th January, 2017)

A*Men Pure Malt by Thierry Mugler

Of all the booze dominated fragrances i have tried, this is still my favourite boozy accord.
Such a seductive opening that transitions into honey-fruit heart. You would think that this could get cloyingly sweet, but the woods and the cool, musty peat accord add the right level of bitterness, just like you experience drinking a neat whiskey.
This has at least 10 hours lonhevity on me and heven garnered a compliment agter having worn for 8 hours and anosmia kicking in.
For mine the best of the amen flankers and already a legend.
14th November, 2016 (last edited: 16th June, 2017)

Uomo by Salvatore Ferragamo

Very interesting in a good way.
This morning i sprayed this on and walk out of the room. The spice was prominent on opening but quickly transitioned to this tiramisu note (more to me like the coffee liqueur you would find in a tiramisu) and i would definitely put this in gourmand territory.
Shortly after, i walked in to the room where i had sprayed this and could still pick up the bright ope i g in the air. On my skin it had settled down to a lovely sweetness.
Seven hours later, this is basically a skin scent now and the predominant thing i pick up is a faint lipstick iris reminiscent of Dior homme.
Just a lovely scent.
13th November, 2016 (last edited: 16th November, 2016)

Acqua di Giò Profumo by Giorgio Armani

Right now my rating for this fragrance is a neutral because it seems that I need to be in the right mood to enjoy it. This is my 3rd full wearing and previously I have enjoyed it. Today for the first time, I am picking up on the geranium and finding it really annoying. Geranium is something that I have never like the smell of, but I just haven't noticed it here before.
longevity is 6/10
projection is 5/10
11th November, 2016

Invictus by Paco Rabanne

Right now i have to give this a neutral review. This is mainly because of the fact that i don't mind wearing this in the right mood/ occasion, but as my nose develops, i really long for a scent to develop and surprise me as it wears. This does none of that. As has veen noted by others, it is very difficult to actually pock individual notes out here. I know it's sweet and i do pick up that faint bubble gum, but it really is hard to tell what this smells like.
05th November, 2016

Individuel by Montblanc

Thumbs up just for pure value. It is a really pleasant, inoffensive scent.
However, I do find Individuel to be a very 2 dimensional fragrance that stays linear and doesn't develop on different wearings like other, more complex fragrances.
It is a fruity opening which I guess is raspberry note. I almost wish the very faint dark chocolate accord was a little more amplified. This then settles down into a lovely skin scent, which is great for warm nights, spring days, casual occasions and the office.

My other issue with this fragrance, as I get older is that every time I wear it, it feels more and more like a younger man's scent.
03rd November, 2016 (last edited: 22nd May, 2017)

Terre d'Hermès by Hermès

My biggest compliment getter so far.
This is fresh, long lasting, dirty, stimulating and I haven't smelled anything quite like it in my relatively short time exploring fragrances.
People have complimented the vetiver note in the dry down and my wife has definitely picked up the pepper.
For me, the dominant notes are the flint and then the benzoin and cedarwood. The citrus opening for me is fleeting.
Great longevity and I can see myself wearing this all year round adjusting the sprays accordingly.
9/10.
02nd November, 2016

Tobacco Vanille by Tom Ford

I have now worn this a few times and my relatively inexperienced nose picks up something new each time.
Today, the clove note (although not listed)was very prominent.
I do really like this fragrance, but this is very easy to over-spray, and definitely works better in cooler weather.
01st November, 2016 (last edited: 02nd November, 2016)

Sauvage by Christian Dior

I have now worn Sauvage enough times to know that I like it, a lot.
To me the citrus-y opening is really pleasing and quite masculine. As it dries down, this really begins to remind me of Terr d'hermes, the vetiver note I think. I love TdH and also enjoy this.
I can see how this scent is polarising, but at the end of the day, with enough time, I like wearing it and I feel good wearing it. For me that is all that counts.
31st October, 2016