Perfume Reviews

Reviews by StellaDiverFlynn

Total Reviews: 188

Honeymania by Body Shop

Honeymania opens with sweet honey. However, it soon dissipates into a soapy so-called wildflower scent. On me it tends to be a little unpleasantly synthetic and I can hardly detect honey any more once those wildflowers kick in.

The longevity is around 5 hours on me. The sillage is moderate and comparing to some of the one-note offerings from TBS, is actually quite good. I find the wildflower part does give out a bright and carefree feeling. However, it's really a Flowermania IMO. This is not where you should looking for a sticky sugary honey treat.
06th February, 2019

Vanille & Narcisse by L'Occitane

The opening of Vanille & Narcisse does have some black currants. It then soon evolves into a combination of vanilla, tonka beans and some yellow flowers, which strangely smells a little sour to me. Actually I'm not sure if I smell narcissus. The floral part slightly reminds of Lancôme Poême. Towards the end, with yellow flowers fading, the powdery vanilla and tonka beans combo also has some caramel-like aspect.

The longevity is around 7 hours on me. The sillage is moderate and manages to keep the intensity during the wearing. It's quite sweet and intense. Overdoing it will be tiring.
06th February, 2019

Mandragore Pourpre by Annick Goutal

Mandragore Pourpre, compared to the original Mandragore, opens much darker, earthier and spicier. The bergamot and the mint are still present throughout the development. But it's no longer as green and crisp as Mandragore. The anise and the pepper turn the whole composition into another deeper colour.

In the drydown, Mandragore Pourpre has a sweeter facet than the original edition. The amber and the myrhh give an oriental vibe. If sniffed closely, the heliotrope and the incense are also distinguishable.

Although Mandragore Pourpre has quite a different character from the orginal Mandragore, their connection is evident: the same elements they share are embodied in the same way. Interestingly, Mandragore Pourpre has the same ethereal texture as the origianl edition even it's significantly spicer, which makes it inoffensive while keeping it stand out. The fact that it's spicer and darker, also helps to keep its strength and its vivacity, contrary to the original Mandragore which tends to fall bland in the drydown.

The sillage is relatively close even sprayed liberally. The longevity is around 6 hours, which is ok for an EDT. I'd definitely recommend giving it a try. An interesting olfactory experience it shall be.
05th February, 2019
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Mandragore by Annick Goutal

This review is based on Eau de Toilette concentration.

The initial blast of Mandragore contains a lot of bergamot, very refreshing and energetic. The citrus soon hides away as a supporting role and reveals a combination of anise, mint and ginger. It's green, fresh, reviving, zesty and sparkling. I was overwhelmed by this phase as this combination of spices which is usually thick, actually delivers such an unusually translucent scent.

However, this phase doesn't hold up very long and it soon was taken over by a spicy and earthy scent. The spices are still the same as above, but no longer freshly picked. They're dried and their ultimate spiciness are sublimed. Interestingly the fragrance remains ethereal even at this stage.

Unfortunately, Mandragore turns bland and watery afterwards, and loses its vivacity and strength. It was soft at the beginning and now it stays extremely close to skin. It dies after about 4 or 5 hours on me, which is weak among those I tried from Annick Goutal.

Mandragore, in contrary to the prune bottle and the mysterious name, is actually green to my nose. I appreciate the aromatic and spicy stages towards the beginning very much. However, these interesting stages doesn't last long (about 1 hour) and the fragrance itself either, which implies frequent reapplication to me. I'm curious if EDP would suit me better.

Nontheless, this should not hold you back from trying it. This green aromatic fragrance, lasting or not, has a very interesting twist that can hardly be described, but to be experienced by oneself.
05th February, 2019

Paris by Yves Saint Laurent

Paris EDT opens slightly sharp. It's ozonic, aldehydic and soapy. It then gradually morphs into a smooth powdery flower bouquet. Rose, hiacynth, violet, mimosa, lily of the valley, jasmine and other flowers interlock with one another. I can hardly pick either one out of the bouquet. It has a floral-type of sweetness, and it smells perfume-y. It doesn't smell unpleasantly synthetic, but it certainly doesn't aim to smell like real flowers. It's an artifice, cleverly structrued and well refined. Glamourous as it is, Paris EDT is surprisingly airy to my nose. I didn't find myself wearing a heavy velvet coat. Instead, it wears like a gauzy aura gently hovering around me. I doubt if the EDP has the same texture, though.

However, I do find that Paris is from an era other than our current one. Paris is like some timeless icons such as Audrey Hepburn : people admire their elegance and beauty but one does not necessarily wear exactly the same way as they do in their times. I admire and respect them as an inspiration. I'd occasionally treat myself with a few spritzes of Paris EDT to be embraced by its grace.

By the way, Paris EDT has a moderate sillage on me even with a few spritzes, but it lasts a good 12 hours and survives a shower.
21st January, 2019

White Musk White Hot Summer by Body Shop

Contrary to the sunset-like summery bottle, White Musk White Hot Summer is actually a subtle powdery fragrance. The opening has quite a lot alcohol, with a hit of bergamot and violet. However, it soon settles down to a powdery combination of orris root and heliotrope. The carnation offers some spiciness to uplift the flowers. At the late drydown, there is also a soft creamy woody smell.

The sillage is close along the 5 hours' wearing. Considering the powdery texture, I'd prefer wearing it in spring and autumn. A versatile fragrance at a reasonable price.
21st January, 2019

Burberry Brit for Men by Burberry

After the initial few seconds of citrus opening, Burberry Brit for Men turns out to be peppery and extremely woody on me. Spices mixes very well with the woody notes. The ginger here is quite dry.

This first hour projects well and is the most masculine phase to my nose. Afterwards, some floral aspects start to mellow the scent down and eventually turn it into a powdery scent described by previous reviews. However, it's not overtly feminine, and I can't really tell the rose. During the transition, at certain point, it smells quite soapy and alike to the aldehyde in Miroir des Secrets to my nose.

Towards the final phase after about 5 hours, Brit for Men stays very close to skin and becomes a comforting scent prominent of tonka beans and musk, though the woods are always detectable.

The longevity in total can reach 10 hours and the average sillage is relatively close. Elegant, understated and without being pretentious. A versatile fragrance with attitude. This might not be THE gem in one's wardrobe but a total functional one.

21st January, 2019

Florabotanica by Balenciaga

The name of Florabotanica sums quite well how the perfume actually smells : flowers and green plants. Upon application, Florabotanica combines rose, carnation and some greenness. The rose is not overly sweet, but on the clean, fresh and green side. The carnation offers some bitterness. The mint contributes the greenness without giving out the chill cooling vibe like some sporty fragrances. During the wearing, I can also smell some white flowers like jasmine. However, it eventually returns to the initial combination and stays so firmly till the end.

The sillage is relatively close and the longevity is simply outstanding, 12h+. It's an understated and inoffensive scent with a steady structure. It certainly is not a masterpiece, but a well-made everyday fragrance for green floral lovers.

Edit: I recently tried Jardins d'Ecrivains Junky which features a very prominent cannabis note. Now I can also discern it in Florabotanica. However, here it only acts like a supporting role, lending an earthy vibe and preventing the fragrance becoming too clean, a very clever touch!
21st January, 2019

Chantal Thomass by Chantal Thomass

The opening of Chantal Thomass is peculiar, a lot of cherries, cranberries and raspberries, and most of all, a striking tomato scent! This combination to my nose smells exactly like dried cherry tomato, yummy and very delightful.

After about 3 hours, the fragrance settles down into a powdery floral skin scent while sandalwood and a light touch of pathouli preventing it falling bland. This phase reminds me of Givenchy Dahlia Noir. Both are chiffon-like understated scents.

The sillage is moderate during the opening then it mellows down into a skin scent and it can reach to 7 hours for longevity in a hot summer day. I think it's a clever fragrance, with a memorising opening and a comforting drydown. I wouldn't recommend blind buying it as the opening is quite a particular scent but it certainly worths a try!
21st January, 2019

Un Jardin Sur Le Toit by Hermès

The first 2 hours of Un Jardin sur le Toit is really pleasant. After the initial green opening, a red apple scent emerges out. Such a fresh, sweet and juicy scent that conjures the joy of life and nature. There is also some pear and green grass complimenting the charming apple. This phase is no doubt fruity, but absolutely not those syrupy candied ones, but a sincere and natural fruity scent.

However, once dried down, Un Jardin sur le Toit loses its vivacity and becomes a green and bitter skin scent which reminds me of the first two Jardins, as if the party comes to the end right after it had just started. It's not bad but it could have been more interesting.

The sillage is close and the longevity is around 4 to 5 hours. Although the apple in Un Jardin sur le Toit enchanted me, this remains my least favourite among the whole Jardin series.
14th January, 2019

Eau de Narcisse Bleu by Hermès

Contrary to what the name suggests, I get very few narcissus from Eau de Narcisse Bleu. It's very woody on me even to a spicy extent. This stage lasts about 3 hours max then turns into a bitter carrot skin scent quite similar to in Un Jardin sur le Nil for another 2 hours. Overall green and woody, a refreshing close-to-skin fragrance for spring and summer. However, I find it too expensive for such a sheer and linear fragrance.
14th January, 2019

Angel Eau De Toilette by Thierry Mugler

While wearing Angel EDT, I totally agree that it shares some similarities with Innocent and Angel La Rose, as bergamot and red berries have a similar masculine edge like in Innocent, and there is also some salty peppery characristics like in Angel La Rose.

The transition to the delicious praline is so smooth that I can't really figure out when it peeped out. The red berries are always there with some tartness to refresh the creamy praline. The patchouli can be felt but on my skin I don't find it that fierce like in EDP.

The sillage is relatively close and it lasts and lasts, almost 12 hours. It's definitely in the same line of Angel EDP and it's much cleaner and more understated. Although Angel EDT didn't really bring something entirely new, it's no doubt an adorable fragrance. It may not seem to be a necessary for someone who already owns several products of the Angel line, but for someone who's starting his adventure to explore Angel or Thierry Mugler universe, Angel EDT can serve well to open the magical gate.
14th January, 2019

White Musk Libertine by Body Shop

The opening of White Musk Libertine EDP seems to be out of balance. A lot of alcohol bursts out with overwhelming sweet honey, cream and rose. However, given a few minutes to allow it settle down, the balance among these ingredients is recovered. Although it's not an exact replica of turkish delight, this creamy compostion certainly has several characteristics of this delicious confectionary and vaguely reminds me of it. The scent doesn't evolve much afterwards, but simply fades away. And the musk is not very prominent on my skin. The sillage of EDP is close to skin and the longevity is about 6 hours.

The EDT concentration opens quite balanced like the EDP once settled down. However, it soon loses its strength and waters down. I thus largely prefer EDP once the opening has passed.
14th January, 2019
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Un Matin d'Orage Eau de Parfum by Annick Goutal

I was able to compare both the EDT and the latest EDP of Un Matin d'Orage side by side. These two concentrations are pretty similar in the opening: creamy dewy gardenia. The EDP feels a bit more intense and sweeter, but only slightly.

The major difference is in the drydown. The gardenia in the EDT gradually mellows into a soapy green ambiance, while in the EDP, it insteand becomes more luscious. The gardenia note in the EDP is still pretty similar to that in the EDT, but the tuberose nuance is also more detectable. Although I can't really discern amber, myrrh and vanilla, but they certainly add more heft to the gardenia. I would say the EDP is one step closer to those big florals from the same house, such as Songes and Passion, than the EDT.

On me, the gardenia in EDT gets lost in the green elements after about 4 to 5 hours, but in EDP it's more present even after 7 hours and the total longevity is almost 12 hours. The sillage of EDP is also moderate to heavy, espacially during the first 2 hours.

Personally, I still find the EDT suits best 'a stormy morning' with its brilliant dewy green elements accompanying the creamy gardenia, but its performance and the elusive gardenia do leave me desiring something more. If you happen to have similar feeling towards the EDT, you may want to try the lastest EDP version of Un Matin d'Orage.
12th January, 2019

Un Matin d'Orage Eau de Toilette by Annick Goutal

Un Matin d'Orage opens like a blooming gardenia under the rain. It's creamy and intense, as if it's enhanced by the rain. Some characteristics of jasmine and magnonlia can be detected though they never take the leading role of gardenia.

This strong gardenia phase lasts around 2 hours then gradually mellows. It seems to be linear. However, it takes a twist after about 5 hours as it becomes soapy and green. There is also some ginger-like spiciness that tickles the nose. This sort of humid spicy feeling matches the name perfectly.

The sillage is moderate especially during the opening. The longevity is around 7 hours. Usually I'm not very fan of Annick Goutal's floral offerings. But Un Matin d'Orage turns out quite pleasant to my nose. Moreover, it has some green aspects that I also find in some of their aromatic offerings and I'm quite fond of. A lovely green floral fragrance perfect for spring and summer!
12th January, 2019

Passage d'Enfer by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Passage d'enfer is an almost pure incense fragrance to my nose. There is a light touch of flower to fresh up the scent, some woody notes and some musk. But they all serve to complement the incense. The scent doesn't change much during the wearing, juste a bit more woody while gradually fading. The sillage is close and it lasted at least 6 hours on me.

The incense in Passage d'enfer is actually quite impressive. It's so realistic that it immediately makes me think of Chinese temples. Due to this fact, to me it's more an ambiance fragrance than an actual perfume that I'd wear in person. But it worths trying especially for incense fans.
12th January, 2019

Piment Brûlant by L'Artisan Parfumeur

While checking the notes listed in Piment Brûlant, the savoury dark chocolate spiced up by chili pepper immediately pops into my head. Unfortunately, on me the chocolate never manages to peep out. Upon application, it smells spicy, green and crisp, like many have pointed out, the freshly cut green bell pepper. I can hardly get other notes suggested. After about 4 hours, it evolves towards red chili pepper but overall it remains the same cold spicy tone which is a similar ambiance that I got from Un Jardin après la Mousson.

The sillage is close to skin. The longevity is at least 6 hours. A very interesting olfactory exprience though not exactly what I expected. It's actually a versatile fragrance, fresh enough for summer, spicy enough for winter. However, it lacks something sensual to evoke a 'love' for the scent itself. I'd love to get a small bottle for my collection, but a 100ml bottle just seems an eternity to me.
10th January, 2019

White Musk by Body Shop

This review is based on Perfume Oil concentration. When I tried the three concentration in store, the EDT and EDP turned out both to be harsh. But the PO concentration is another story.

Overall the perfume oil of White Musk doesn't change much. Upon application, it's a rich and fluffy musky scent decorated by various floral notes. The combination actually makes me think of some rice-themed fragrances. The floral notes are smooth and well blended. I could only identify the slightly smoky lily.

I wouldn't define White Musk as clean, as it has some earthy and dank characteristics while evolving, but more like a wet forest floor and far from being animalic. Towards the end, it becomes a little sweeter, as if amber and vanilla finally reveal themselves, but still remains a comforting skin scent.

The sillage of perfume oil is very close to skin, but at the same time stays solidly for almost 12 hours. It's a scent that I'd really associate with a cashmere puller due to its fluffy and comforting feeling and it will fit numerous occasions almost all year round except for hot summer days IMO. I highly recommend the perfume oil concentration for its high quality and affordable price.
10th January, 2019

Flash by Jimmy Choo

Jimmy Choo Flash opens with a strange strawberry scent, not the real juicy one, nor the strawberry flavour one, very difficult to define. I was initially curious if the strawberry will play along with the white flowers. However, this fruity opening soon dissipates and leaves no trace on the then-coming strong white flower scent, which is quite similar to Jesus Del Pozo In White to my nose.

This white flower blossom stage lasts about 2 or 3 hours. It then dries down into a gentle floral-musky scent, very soothing and feminine, which is also my favourite part in Flash.

The sillage is moderate and the longevity is at least 8 hours. However, I don't think I'll buy it any time soon as the white flower stage is just too similar to In White, though the drydown is lovely.
10th January, 2019

Jimmy Choo by Jimmy Choo

After a fruity opening of a few minutes, with the entrance of toffee and patchouli, Jimmy Choo did make think of Van Cleef & Arpels Oriens. While I was not very fond of the floured raspberry in Oriens, Jimmy Choo's pear and mandarin manage to show a more juicy aspect.

Then the fragrance evolves into its own path. The toffee becomes richer, more creamy, thus makes the whole scent sweeter, while the fruits tend to give out more tartness, somehow manage to keep the balance between the conflicts.

Afterwards, it doesn't change too much, a little bit more chocolate-y, and slowly fades away. The sillage is moderate and the longevity is at least 8 hours. Well, it fits in the recent trend of fruit+candy+patchouli, but it somehow manages to make its way out of the mass. Worths a try, but it still requires a sweet nose. In some stage it's very sweet, beware!
10th January, 2019

Un Jardin en Méditerranée by Hermès

When Un Jardin en Méditerranée hit the skin, I immediately thought of pine, like what I had encountered in Annick Goutal's Ninféo Mio, which seems to be the fig leaf note that tricked me. I don't get much citrus. It's not aquatic to me, either. It has woodsy and aromatic caracters to my nose, green without sharpness. After about 3 or 4 hours, some creamy fig sweetness surfaces, but never overpowers the woods and aromatic plants. I also get a whiff of rich creamy pistachio at some moments, but it's very subtle.

The sillage is close, but it stays solidly on my skin for about 6 hours, which is really not bad for an EDT in such a hot summer day. While Ninféo Mio has a similar theme but has a lot of other stuff going on, Un Jardin en Méditerranée remains firmly to the fig tree theme and clean. A sort of pick-me-up fragrance, but with excellent quality and interesting caracters.
08th January, 2019

Bois Farine by L'Artisan Parfumeur

The opening of Bois Fariné definitely reminds me of some bread or cakes that I smelt before. I don't think it smells like peanut butter or nutella on me. I just can't put my finger on it! (What on earth is it? It's driving me crazy! Grrrrrr....... =A=)

After about 3 or 4 hours, the benzoin loses its power on the fragrance. The sandalwoods and other woodsy notes become more prominent. The scent also turns slightly sour on me. The powdery aspect is noticeable but not aggressive.

The sillage is soft but the scent stays solid along the wearing. The longevity is around 6 hours on me. Actually, Bois Fariné doesn't evoke much emotion to me. I'm attracted by the scent itself as it smells just so interesting and addictive. It definitely worths at least a try!
08th January, 2019

Thé Pour un Été by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Thé pour un Été opens with a very comfortable citrus scent then moves to a combination of green tea and jasmin. The jasmin has a slightly smokey earthy vibe like the real ones. The drydown is a gentle sweet mint scent on me. A pleasant and soothing fragrance. However, it doesn't stay long on me. The tea and jasmin phase has a soft sillage and lasts about 2 or 3 hours max then comes the drydown extremely close to skin. To smell it at this time I have no choice but stick my nose on my arm. I thus suggest testing before you buy to see if it lasts on you, though I think there are still other intereting and cheaper green tea scents out there.
08th January, 2019

Insolence Eau de Parfum by Guerlain

Insolence EDP's opening is a very powdery iris to my nose. And if sprayed heavily, it actually reminded me of iris in Shalimar Parfum Initial.

This extremely powdery phase lasted around 1 hour on me and then the violet becomes more and more clear, finally takes over the whole scent. It's sweet violet decorated by powdery iris and a small amount of red berries to give the flowers a kick.

Some perfumes sit close but maintain an intensity, like a velvet covered on skin, while some are like a fog surrounding the skin, but difficult to discern a shape, for exemple Kenzo Flower, and here, Insolence EDP.

The tonka beans and woodsy notes are subtle and the scent doesn't evolve too much while slowly fading away. The sillage is moderate on me and the longevity is at least 8 hours.

I tried it several times and honestly, during the first time, I liked it but was not impressed. However, the more I try, the more I like it. The name 'Insolence' is so well chosen for this series. The fragrance is sweet and well blended, but the same time it leaves out an unconstrainted confidence of its beauty. Definitely worths a try, though it'd better to prepare for its powdery texture.
07th January, 2019

Miss Dior Chérie (original) by Christian Dior

Miss Dior Cherie opens with a slightly soapy fruity scent, featuring pineapple, cherries, and a lot of strawberries. To me, it's essentially a strawberry fragrance. For the first 4 hours, the strawberries smell boozy and volatile, not the fresh juicy ones that every young girls can taste, but more like cocktail that requires a certain age to be able to drink.

I was not able to pick caramel or popcorn note distinctively. But I assume that they contributed in the strawberry jam feeling after about 6 hours of wearing. The flowers are difficult to perceive on me. The patchouli is not very evident either, but it certainly helps adding depth to the playful strawberry.

The longevity is excellent. After 12 hours I can still the amber base. The sillage is good in the first 4 or 5 hours then stays close to skin until the end. Bright, playful and full of delight, it definitely worths a try. But beware, it's quite sweet though, plus the volatile texture, you may not want to overapply.
06th January, 2019

La Petite Robe Noire Eau de Parfum by Guerlain

The initial blast of La Petite Robe Noire is a very tart cherry scent, which distinguishes itself from other common sweet cherry fragrances. Licorice is also detectable at this very first stage of LPRN, which did make me think of Lolita Lempicka. However, while LL develops into a more powdery scent, LPRN evolves into another direction.

While the initial strong sour cherry mellows, red berries and almonds also come into the scene. Patchouli pops out here or there with a hint of earthiness, but in an understated way. Soon the scent transforms into a sort of candied rose, quite like LPRN EDT. While EDT is bright and sparkling with fresh crisp apple, EDP is just a little bit darker, richer, but nowhere near being gothic or femme fatale.

The final stage marks the return of cherry and its dance with vanilla, tonka and gentle licorice, smooth like a light cream, and slowly fades away.

The sillage is strong at first but soft during the drydown. The longevity is pretty good for around 10h. To me, LPRN is a playful and girly fragrance with good quality, not too complex to spoil the fun, but still with some depth preventing from being childish.

I like it, but still am skeptical for a full bottle purchase as personally I don't see myself wearing it too often. The price tag certainly doesn't help. I think it might sit on my 'want list' for quite a while.
06th January, 2019

Thunderstorm by Demeter Fragrance Library

The initial blast of Thunderstorm is a strong ozone scent. Though it has a shadow of the smell before a thunderstorm, it's actually too strong to be realistic at the beginning. The scent then gradually mellows into a mixture of green grass with drops and dirts, muds dipping in water, as if the rain has already finished. This aroma of after-rain slowly fades away during about the 5-hour wear. Althought it's not a conventional perfume, I find it pretty wearable and refreshing for a hot summer day. A very interesting olfactory experience to try.
03rd January, 2019

Fleur de Corail / Coral Flower by Lolita Lempicka

I didn't get much citrus opening with Coral Flower. It started almost directly with frangipani and amber. I didn't manage to relate the fragrance with sea like other reviewers do. But if sniff closer, I was able to detect a slight salty note. There is also a smoky texture that reminds me of Lush Lust and Annick Goutal Songes, which I assume is a particular interpretation of white flowers, and unfortunately is not my favourite way.

Overall it's a warm fragrance to my nose. I'd prefer wearing in spring and autumn, though it'd be a interesting choice in a summer evening or even in the day for oriental fans. The sillage for the first hours is relatively strong, but after 3 or 4 hours it becomes close to skin while remaining a certain intensity. The longevity is 7h at least. Though not really my cup of tea, it's still a fragrance of quality.
03rd January, 2019

FlowerbyKenzo Summer 2011 by Kenzo

Flower Summer 2011 meets the skin with a soft litchi scent blended with mandarin. The litchi here doesn't smell like the fresh juicy one in Madly EDT, but a rippen litchi because of the tartness brought in by mandarin. Soon the unmistakable incense-like Flower sharpness comes out along with violet and musk. However, it stays very soft and close to skin. I don't find it particularly powdery either. Those who were a little scared of the sharpness and powdery texture of the original might still be able to like it. The longevity reaches around 5 hours. A tender fragrance for spring and summer, there is no doubt, though there are also other interesting choices in the same floral-fruity category.
03rd January, 2019

Sables by Annick Goutal

Sables doesn't evolve much on me. I get a smoky and warm mixture of immortelle, amber, cinnamon and sandalwood. Though in the end I decided that Sables is not what I would personally wear, I'm very impressed throughout the wearing. It has a sweet aspect but at the same time it's very masculine to my nose. I don't know why but the image evoked by Sables in my head is muscles and a mature man, lol. The longevity is around 10 hours and the sillage is good, one spray and I got a whiff or another frequently. Definitely a wonderful fragrance to at least give a try.
03rd January, 2019