Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Juxtapozbliss

Total Reviews: 32

Arielle Shoshana Eau de Parfum by Arielle Shoshana

Dry. A hint of metal. The floral backdrop is subdued. Opening is mildly sweet passion fruit, very realistic. A dry saffron kicks in. Gentle sandalwood. Hints of the saffron continue behind. Very little amber. Long tail base I get melon and passion fruit with a hint of saffron. Very nice but definitely skews feminine to me.
23rd April, 2019

L’Heure Exquise by Bortnikoff

Petrol oud with cocao flare in the opening. Oily and rich. Some bitter florals enter against bone dry incense. Then a tart, balsamic fruit comes through--the neroli and bergamot. The drydown maintains a strong metallic oud. I feel like this is a colognoisseur type of fragrance rather than a mainstream fragrance. I can see how some might find it distasteful, but I'm quite enjoying it. The silage seems to be modest so I don't think it would bother anyone around me. True oud can be controversial and this seems quite authentic.
02nd April, 2019

Collection Notes de Fond : Cèdre-Iris by Affinessence

It opens with warm cedar wood shavings, a bit medicinal, as if they've been rubbed with menthol. Then the vanilla rises followed by a hint of caramel and spice over the woody base. Something one might wear to conjure up a glamping experience. Outdoorsy for the lux set.
27th February, 2019
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Collection Notes de Fond : Patchouli-Oud by Affinessence

Opens with black pepper and flat patchouli. Then it shifts to a more herbal and brackish mid period. Closes with grassy notes and some modestly spicy oud. The long tail reminds me of Bracken Man.
27th February, 2019

Collection Notes de Fond : Vanille-Benjoin by Affinessence

A medicinal vibe. It's subtle, not too strong, that must be the benzoin with a slightly resinous quality. But that quickly faded to a dusky vanilla. Mildly sweet. Slightly butterscotch. For me, it made the vanilla a tad sickly, not enjoyable.
27th February, 2019

Collection Notes de Fond : Santal-Basmati by Affinessence

Warm cooked rice and very little else.
27th February, 2019

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Epicene Gamma / Nicolas Beaulieu by IFF

A green fresh opening. Geranium. Not grassy. No spice initially. Hint of the clary sage. A sprinkling of pepper dances in to continue the energy. It's a nostril flaring scent. Crisp and sharp in a good way. Reminds me of Eau de Rochas Homme but without the citrus. I did not get any leather from it.
17th May, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Fanny Bal by IFF

Opens with a chewy cocao, and yes ground hazelnuts. the combination does remind me of Nutella. It turns a bit powdery fairly quickly for me and vanilla weaves in. Something resinous enters, I get a slightly rubbery labdanum. It's as if an eraser were erasing the cocoa. I get a dusting of the resin over the vanilla. Then something like a sweet or candied wood comes in while the dry herbal resin remains. I realized the candied wood reminded me of fig. The card on this fragrance claims some floral notes and other elements that I could not catch here...possibly just my lack of nasal sophistication. Regardless of that, this was quite nice! I could easily see wearing this.
17th May, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Juliette Karagueuzoglou by IFF

This one did an unusual dance between notes for me. It opened with a dry powdered, natural smelling cocoa, not particularly sweet. Soon, the incense came up strong from the background, and the cocoa receded. The slightly humid incense was actually a nice complement to the dry cocoa. Then as the two notes began to simmer together, with the cocoa becoming stronger again, the blend became definitely more like chocolate than cocoa. As they merged, the incense shimmered in the background and reminded me of mint. The based landed on a mint chocolate accord that was, however, not as sweet as is sounds.
17th May, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Sophie Labbé by IFF

The Labbé scent has a nice longevity and a very pleasing drydown. It opens with a citric elemi, very fresh, that reminded me of Eau Sauvage Parfum. Despite the write-up on this one saying that she didn't use any citrus, the elemi itself has a strong citrus presence like pressed lemon rind. Interwoven with the elemi is a crisp ginger note. In the mid-period, the fragrance turned slightly chalky or powdery and introduced notes of bergamot. The bergamot was on the sweeter side, but soon after hints of spice came in that I thought were close to cloves (the write-up indicates pink pepper...that's must be what read as cloves to me.) The skin scent drydown had a long tail, becoming sweeter and smoother over time. It was like a lavender/bergamot creamsicle with hints of sweet cloves. Very nice.
17th May, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Jean-Christophe Herault by IFF

Opens with a very straightforward sweet rum. Becomes slightly bitter rum with spices emerging and a literal alcohol scent. Almost rubbing alcohol. A little black pepper, perhaps hint of cloves. Evolves to hints of cherry and orange, not quite candy but mildly sweet as the alcohol fades. This ran out on me a little too quickly for my taste.
17th May, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Anne Flipo by IFF

This is the most well-composed scent to me of all those I've tried in this kit, if a thematically focused scent. The focus is woods, but there are enough layers to make it feel satisfying and full. It opens with mildly spicy woods. I'm not quite educated enough on oakmoss, but I believe this spiciness is from an oakmoss accord because it didn't remind me of pepper or cloves. There was a subtle sharpness woven into the dry woody texture. Over time then, this became creamier with tonka, not quite caramel smooth. The tonka bean notes almost became fruity for me in the mid-period but only gently. An apple note like apple wood or apple juice even. In the long tail, this resolved into a smooth creamy sandalwood scent.
17th May, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Caroline Dumur by IFF

This scent was an experiment to create a rich, believable carnation accord, which is a particularly tricky note to accurately represent. Apparently, carnation isn't (can't be?) naturally extracted so it is instead typically represented in perfumes by combining rose with eugenol. I ran into this issue recently when I sampled Vetiverus from Oliver & Co, and I couldn't for the life of me understand why it had such a potent herbal note to it that I identified as cloves. Cloves were not listed as a note but with a little further research I found that eugenol can present as cloves. So for anyone whose nose is more sensitive to eugenol, the two elements won't combine properly to produce carnation. That made it particularly impressive that Dumur produced such a believable carnation here. She put together a cocktail of floral elements and spices to produce what to my nose was a wholly accurate carnation scent. It was like having a corsage of carnation on my wrist. Not that I’ve ever had a corsage of carnation on my wrist. Well, now it's like I have had a corsage of carnation on my wrist so I can't say that any longer. The carnation had a nice longevity with little variation over time but still impressive nonetheless.
17th May, 2018
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Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Loc Dong by IFF

I found this to be a muted fragrance. Four sprays on each wrist didn't give me much power. There were only two periods for me, the first was a slightly sour butter. Thick and cloudy. Later, there was a transformation to an unidentifiable (by me) fruit and vague green. I disliked the opening, but the base was pleasant enough. Dong claims in his writeup to be representing the seven cardinal sins of perfumers, but I found this nowhere near dramatic enough to carry that metaphor.
17th May, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Alexis Dadier by IFF

Opens with a very strong almond scent and wet rice. Like sautéing slivers of almond with rice. The rice morphs into a soft pasta scent, like overcooked noodles. This smells almost exactly like what is called the "sand accord" in Byredo's Oliver Peoples scent. After about fifteen minutes, I get a whiff of sweet raisins. In a half hour, something dry and musky. Instead of almonds, I'm getting chestnuts now. And then strangely, in the drydown, a layer of something greasy comes to the fore. I was brought to mind the juice from a cooked chicken. Some sort of oil from cooking meat but not the scent of the meat itself. It sounds gross, but overall I was actually neutral on it. Didn't like it but didn't hate it either. The description claims to be mashing up four distinct accords, but the only one that my nose was able to distinguish was the almond.
17th May, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Julien Rasquinet by IFF

I've never smelled myrrh before so this was new to me. It lay between incense and musk. Very dry. like the Sonoran desert. Almost animalic but not quite. A very meaty herb. This scent became addictive to me, and I smelled my wrist repeatedly. Hints of licorice emerged, black licorice. Overall, this fragrance was mossy, rich and staid. Not much evolution, but it smelled high quality.
17th May, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Bruno Jovanovic by IFF

A floral opening. A bit of rose there, not sure what else, possibly hibiscus. In the background I get hints of cool ocean water. Gentle white musk enters and closes this as the base. A pleasant scent if not very inspired.
17th May, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Domitille Michalon Bertier by IFF

Opens with a gentle tobacco leaf note and a hint of musk. Light vanilla enters and soon after, a very easy user-friendly civet. The base evolved to an almost powdery musk and tonka bean, one step away from creamy. I liked it but it was not challenging enough to be a new take on musk and tobacco or an animalic. It was very relaxed, which is fine but I expected something edgier.
17th May, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Dominique Ropion by IFF

Leads with honey and notes of saffron and ginger behind. Then I sensed a tart grape emerge, slightly sour. Became more plummy than grape and then became even more fruity. The fruit took over and had legs. This is supposed to have an Egyptian theme, but it didn't come across that way to me mainly because the fruit became overpowering.
17th May, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Nelly Hachem-Ruiz by IFF

A delicious gourmand that reminded me of a pina colada! It opened with a cozy coconut. Something floral in the background, which could have been heliotrope. It became creamy, as in more of a "cream note" rather than overall creamy texture balanced by a slightly musky, dirty patchouli. I got notes of nutmeg as well. A very friendly, likable scent.
17th May, 2018

Vetiverus by Oliver & Co.

Oliver and Co's Vetiverus is a potent Vetiver. It rides in medicinal and herbal...the first night that I tried a sample, my nose was a little bit stuffy, and I couldn't quite place the herb until I tried it the next day. It was absolutely clove! But mysteriously, clove is not listed as one of the notes so I did some research. Turns out that concentrated carnation can smell like cloves because carnation (Dianthus caryophyllata) contains eugenol, the same scent molecule found in the oil of clove. Very interesting.

For me, the medicinal quality opens Vetiverus, but then recedes to be replaced by a sharp vetiver over thick ambergris. Very rich. A slightly bitter floral enters that has the tonality of osmanthus pollen interwoven with a more true carnation note. In the mid-period, hints of orange came through the powder and the vetiver/ambergris became mildly salty. In the close, the clove shows through again, leaving a strong herbal base. Quite a unique scent, but I wasn't as taken with it as Vaninger. This is a house to watch.
19th April, 2018

Vaninger by Oliver & Co.

Vaninger sparkles like champagne in the opening with a hint of grapefruit and lemon. I was worried the ginger might be too strong for me, because I'm not a fan of ginger in food, but it primarily carries the effervescent quality in the opening and then as the scent evolves it becomes a candied ginger. During the mid-period, an herbal note comes to the fore (which must be the turmeric note listed), briefly something sour that dances in and out and then the fruit transforms from the opening citrus to a deeper fruit that to my nose was plum although it seems to be listed in the notes as kumquat. After the ginger transforms to a sweeter candied ginger note, the base opens up to a gentle white musk or cashmeran at the end.

Vaninger is a delightful, energizing fragrance that took me on a unique journey.
17th April, 2018

Profumo e Gusto in Libertà : CAaastagna_saalaaata by Hilde Soliani Profumi

Almost but not quite gourmand. It's subverted just slightly from gourmand...painting an almost fantastical scene in my mind rather than food notes. I find all the elements weave around me, constantly evocative rather than evolving over time. The roasted chestnut is clear and natural to me, nothing artificial.

Wearing CAaastagna_saalaaata gives me the sensation that I'm walking by a roasted chestnut vendor set up on the beach in a cove of the Mediterranean; the chestnuts are fresh, not fully roasted yet, not burnt or dark. The ocean is gently briny and the air is warm. The vendor salts the chestnuts with sea salt as I walk past. I can feel the sand between my toes and don't want to leave this moment.

Friendly and accessible, CAaastagna_saalaaata manages to be creative and unexpected yet feel like an organic combination. It's a sign of how good it is when you think, how come no one thought of this before?
19th October, 2017

Oliver Peoples by Byredo

I find Oliver Peoples a very weak fragrance on my skin. More of a skin-scent EDT than an EDP in potency. Not bad for work, but I sprayed twice on each wrist and twice on my neck and an hour and 45 mins later I can barely catch anything. That being said, it's a pleasant enough scent. Fresh juniper is by far the clearest note, with a hint of sweetness that could be the iris. Following that I do detect what they call the "warm sand accord" but for me, this warm sand is more like buttery pasta. Not unpleasant but not particularly sophisticated either. It's such a modest fragrance that it's inoffensive to a fault.
08th August, 2017

Boccanera by Orto Parisi

Boccanera is a cold weather fragrance and with the cold snap here in Chicago it was the perfect day to return to it. I can say, without hesitation, that I love this cologne. Admittedly it's a bit of a mélange, with no clear notes that stand out. Some might call that a muddle. Don't care. It's my kind of muddle.

It's a warm scent, rich and sexy. The scent tree above (sweet notes and spices) are not accurate to my nose. I get very little spice from it. Is it gourmand? Perhaps partially but not absolutely. On the gourmand side, I detect hints of dark coffee and walnut oil but only modest sweetness. At times, I taste bitter chocolate distantly. The light sweetness is tempered by an almost animalic musk, something dusky. Not smoke but a hint of charred wood.

All these notes weave together to create a rich, comforting scent with good longevity and modest sillage. Just about perfect.
26th June, 2017 (last edited: 27th June, 2017)

Cuir Cordoba by Keiko Mecheri

This is a charming, sophisticated scent. The suede accord intertwines with the black violet over a bed of sandalwood in the background. Suede is exactly right here, not leather. It's smooth and silky, fresh and almost but not quite creamy. Sillage and longevity are moderate, making this a perfect scent for spring or summer. Very happy that I picked this up.
14th June, 2017 (last edited: 27th June, 2017)

White Peacock Lily by D.S. & Durga

I tried a sample of this, and it's really quite beautiful. Six hours later and I can still catch it off my wrist. This fragrance is smooth and natural. No hint of anything chemical or artificial. It is strongly floral with the mix of oleander, lily and violet, and the result here is a gentle bouquet of notes unified by a creamy texture. I don't catch any grapefruit but a bare hint of the vanilla. The notes are tinted with a fog, a slightly cool overtone. Overall, the simplest description is a rich, creamy floral that manages to avoid being too sweet. A great fragrance for spring into early summer.

It feels more feminine than masculine to me, but I think you'll find it addictive no matter who you are.

18th April, 2017 (last edited: 27th June, 2017)

Blackmusk by Mad et Len

If you twisted my arm and insisted upon identifying my signature scent, Blackmusk would be my instinctive choice. It opens with a gentle, almost animalic musk interwoven with a hint of creamy chocolate. It's rich but not cloying or domineering. Entering in the mid period, a heart of fruit and spice builds. I get glimpses of fresh green apple beside a soft pepper note cushioned within the musk. By the long tail, the scent evolves with notes of sweet herbal vegetation without relinquishing the musk, evoking in me the olfactory sensation of a musty old garden that belongs to former, aging royalty with thick rotting vegetation and a fire crackling off in the distance. Decidedly masculine and warm, Blackmusk is a favorite and deserves more attention.
28th February, 2017 (last edited: 28th June, 2017)

Cuirs by Carner Barcelona

I received a sample this week, Cuirs being one of the recommended winter scents of the month from Olfactif. It had a repellant quality on my skin...the resin must have interacted with my body chemistry because I smelled glue. It was disgusting.
14th December, 2016 (last edited: 27th June, 2017)

Salvia Sclarea by Tom Daxon

I do love this fragrance. I find the sillage and longevity to be very modest hence the lower rating. Especially at this price point. But it is perfect for work as it's more of a skin scent. It's a refreshing scent for mornings with freshly cut grass and sage touched by hints of bergamot. It's very bright, fresh and natural. Unfortunately, it only seems to last a couple hours, your mileage may vary.
14th November, 2016 (last edited: 27th June, 2017)