Perfume Reviews

Reviews by the blood on 530 27

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Total Reviews: 26

Ormonde Woman by Ormonde Jayne

I remember smelling the tester in store, it has a somewhat sweet green grass note on top. Not as ethereal as Apsu, and sometimes I can't perceive it at all.

Back home, it then fell to the very peppery woody heart (black hemlock?). Except that, it has an oily facet. If you've smelled violet leaf essential oil, you'll know what I'm talking about. Sometimes it has a dry-tea leaves scent.

The opening sweetness didn't disappear completely, it's lurking somewhere in the background. In the meantime, the main note is still a bit sour and astringent, as you can imagine from a dry cedar base. It even turns to the slightly bitter side after dry-down.

18th October, 2017

Mitsouko by Guerlain

I read another fragrantica review about Guerlains, which propose an explaination why this truly legendary brand not as popular as it was: they're not those over-the-counter 5-minutes-fame perfumes, they're mean to be take-home and appreciated in a longer time frame. Most people don't have the patience now.

Now that I've experienced mitsouko, I can't agree more with this review.

First time I tried mitsouko at counter, the sales person burst into laugh when they saw the grimace I made: the opening is a bit off-putting. It has a rather medicinal note which appears in a lot of old Guerlains, and I still don't know what caused it. I also get that inky/wet oakmoss tone on top. The rest of it is soft-fresh spice smell, not sweet, not warm, not harsh.

I just let it sit on my arms and went home, planning to scrub it off as soon as I can. By one accident sniff I was captured: it turns into something divine. The only note I can pick out is peach, not in a realistic way——frankly speaking, a lot of realistic peach only make me feel they tried too hard——but rather...lazy and comforting, not unlike a beauty lies blithely on the bed of aforementioned spicy accords, as if she did not know how charming she is.

So Guerlain teachs me a lesson: never judge a perfume by its opening, especially old classics like mitsouko.
18th October, 2017

Portrait of a Lady by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Every time I tried it on I get different ideas. This perfume is a Rubik's cube, my dumb brain can only work out one face at a time.

The most current version I got is: vivid rose blast at opening, accompanied by something strongly reminiscent of oud(incense?), with some sort of spicy animalistic undertone. A panther hide in rose bushes. If I get close enough, there is a soothing aspect of aldehyde.

The rose, thankfully, doesn't have the indolic feel as in Une Rose, possibly due to some fruity softener that I couldn't tell. My skin stays a battlefield between army of red rose and slightly pungent musk. After an hour or so, rose is utterly defeated and the musk decimated, a vast land of patchouli finally reveal itself.

If it really is a portrait of a certain lady, then it's the portrait of Rebecca, the devious and charming mistress of Manderley.
18th October, 2017
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Noir Epices by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

I'll admit the opening is synthetic, but quite pleasant. In fact it almost has certain "mystique" in it, bear a resemblance to the opening of Ile Pourpre. I've also noticed certain aldehyde facet, not prominent, just in supporting role.

Then it just transitioned to the spice heart. I usually detected a rather "savory" or "flesh-like" aspect in warm spices, still yet to identify what it is. It also has a dry smoky note in it. if the smoke and flesh reach a balance, it will be a.......fantastic bacon accord.

The final stage has a usual...plastic feeling, subtle, but still there.
30th September, 2017

Mémoires de Mustique by Eight & Bob

There gotta be something wrong with their sample sets. I get two samples of this from two reliable sources, and both smell, consistently, rusty, fishy(literally), and with an unmistakably Chinese sauerkraut tone. Perhaps it's gonna have a different base, but I don't have the stomach to wait for the dry-down.
08th September, 2017

Cap d'Antibes by Eight & Bob

Mediocre.

Not a green woody as the note table suggests. It quickly dries down to your regular sweet warm base of department store perfumes.
08th September, 2017

Superstitious by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Aldehydic. Aldehydic to the point that it's almost medicinal. In my opinion, this amount of aldehyde usually spells "paranoia".

I guess it's intended to be a modern take on floral aldehydes notes, but I don't get much floral, except for a shadow like sourness lurking somewhere in that dazzling aldehydes mess.

Now comes to think it, I understand why it's called "superstitious". It does give out a neurotic vibe.
30th August, 2017

Apsu by Ulrich Lang

The greenest of all green.

When coming to fresh/green notes, we've all heard enough shitty cliches, only this time, those cliches are true: morning dew on fresh cut lawn. Unlike so many other "green" notes, it is NOT astringent, NOT cloying, NOT sour. Perhaps this is due to the right plays of calone and GLVs?

Then I get a ghost-like bitterness when it dries down, just to the right amount.

Too bad its silage is weak as dying men's breath, longevity short as meteor star. I'll have to bathe it to get stronger smell.
30th August, 2017

Une Rose by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

A rose is a rose is a rose is a rose is a rose is a rose is a rose is a rose is a rose is a rose.

Really, I can repeat it a thousand time, so does this perfume. It's not just "une" rose, it's the universals of roses.

Except that overwhelming sweetness——but not unpleasant——I also get a heady indolic scent. It's strong enough to hallucinate you: everything is tinted rosy after one spray.
30th August, 2017

De Profundis by Serge Lutens

I used to worship this perfume. It's my pseudo-signature scent for now.

However, I do wish they can take that cloying smell away -- that ubiquitous dry fruits scents in a lot of Serge Lutens perfumes.

What's left, is abyss. It's dark soil, but not those typical vetiver scent: it doesn't give out even one hint of warmth. So It's fair to say this perfume is cold, but just the opposite of those light/transparent citruse/mint notes.

It's wild chrysanthemum growing in graveyard. (and with Winnie the Pooh running around with honey pots......Ugh!)
30th August, 2017

L'Eau d'Hiver by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

It's as lovely as a warm nap in winter days.

I fell in love with the name immediately.

For the scent itself, it's the good type of powdery. The iris and heliotrope are puffy here, the lightness possibly owing to a hint of citrus notes. As it dries down, a slight honey note joins in, dimming down the whole perfume a little. The musky undertone then keeps you warm like feather pillow.
30th August, 2017

Muscs Koublaï Khän by Serge Lutens

Smells like sexual harassment.
30th August, 2017

Imperial Tea by By Kilian

Pro: finally a true tea smell.

It's photo-realistic jasmine tea fragrance, with reasonable sillage & longevity, not those f*ing citrus or white floral or spicy fake tea. I mean, seriously, if you advertise for a tea perfume, you better f*ing put tea in it.


Con: There is nothing else. Not too much depth. In fact, none at all.

Frankly speaking, I'd expect Demeter make this type of scent (linear, realistic).
30th August, 2017
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Duro by Nasomatto

This is my favorite men's perfume so far. It smells...reliable.

It opens with warm patchouli, then a bitter smoky notes jump out in the middle, quickly disappears, gradually turns into compound woody notes, with a slightest hint of musky.

Long lasting, low project.

P.S. Monsieur by Frederic Malle is another male perfume I wear.

Interesting enough, these two has similar vibe, but develop in exact opposite direction.

Monsieur has a somewhat dry, austere woody beginning, but gradually falls to a bed of comfortable patchouli; whereas Duro start with a softer notes, which is slightly on the sweet side, and eventually transitions to multi-layered woods.
30th August, 2017

Sacred Wood by By Kilian

I suggest you only buy it for educational purpose: it's bitter sandalwood, and you'll never forget what sandalwood smell like after this. The smell itself is not unpleasant ...but that's all there is.

Even if I bathe in it, it still wouldn't have much project. So anyone looking for a subtle, keep-it-to-yourself smell...well, don't buy this, try Nassomatto.
30th August, 2017

Boy Chanel by Chanel

The lavender take a lead in the beginning, on a bed of ... muddy, oily heliotrope, and warm spices (anise?).

You sensed something sharp, something high pitched, waiting in the next corner. It settles in after a couple of minutes, smells like rusty geranium.

Then the sweetness come into play: the vanillas, the Tonka beans, you name it. For me, this is closing time.

Oh of course, don't forget that soapy aldehyde, lurking somewhere all the time. Sometimes I feel it's haunting in every chanel I've tried.
30th August, 2017

Déjà Le Printemps (new) by Oriza L. Legrand

If I didn't smell APSU by Ulrich Lang, I'd say this is a good grass notes.

However, when compare these two hand by hand, I realize deja is not a cut-grass note, but definitely something else, very fresh and realistic:

This is a photo-realistic fresh SOY-BEAN MILK note! Non-sweetened!

Kudos to Oriza, this scent truly is one of the kind: where else can I find $200 a bottle of soy bean milk perfume, right?
30th August, 2017

Aperture by Ulrich Lang

Pee. Pungent pee. Pungent pee in filthy public toilet.

That's just what the opening feel like. The rest of it, is not that anti-human, but honestly, with that opening...I don't have the courage to enjoy the rest of it.
30th August, 2017

Une Fleur de Cassie by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

DO NOT be fooled by that demure, powdery openning. It turns into a beast after drying down. I honestly wonder why they didn't put "musk" in the note.

Really, a little warning would be helpful: I feel like I'm about to marry lady Sansa, then find the Hound waiting for me at altar.
30th August, 2017

X for Women by Clive Christian

Awfully rich smell, both literally and figuratively.
30th August, 2017

V for Women by Clive Christian

It's hard to tell which note is which, but let's try.

At the beginning, I get something cold balsamic (olibanum?). The (supposedly) oak moss reeks of a definitely inky, wet tobacco leaves note, as if someone forgotten their cigarette in a moist basement. The indole manifest the presence of white flowers--I can't tell which, but I'm sure it doesn't have even a slightest hint of sweetness. After the inky oak moss tide calms down, a woody patchouli land gradually reveals itself.

I then sprayed it on a testing paper profusely. On paper it's somewhat more pleasant. The wet tobacco is not so intrusive, I get something cold and deep, as if walking under the shade of a 100 years tree. After half a day, only the base left on the testing paper: its a balanced warm scent, with patchouli and labdanum etc.
29th August, 2017

Accord Oud by Byredo

The kind of powdery perfume that suits a 18s monarch.

In fact, the oud is not the protagonist; it's only here to lay the foundation for iris. The leather is closer to suede, accentuating the soft side of the powdery notes. With the aids of these substantial notes, the usual feminine iris become unexpectedly powerful.
29th August, 2017

Après L'ondée by Guerlain

A solid, multi-layered powdery scent. I've got sweet creamy violet, lower-pitch orris, an oily/muddy/spicy heliotrope, and some subtle mimosa tone.

All of which is accompanied by high-pitched, chilly medicinal disinfectant notes, close to galbanum but not quite so. Styrax maybe? I honestly wonder why they put such note there.

Since I don't know any french, I don't get the rain/water/moisture suggested by the name. It's fairly dry to me. If I stretch a bit, perhaps that medicinal note is mean to represent the soil after rain?
29th August, 2017

En Passant by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Personally I'd like to put these three FM floral perfume in one family:

En Passant, Eau de Magnolia, Carnal flower.

En Passant is that innocent young sister, simple, linear, transparent.

Eau de Magnolia is the educated older sister, much more refined, an impeccable sweet young lady.

Carnal Flower is their femme fatale mother (let's assume femme fatale also have kids, for whatever reason), who probably murdered their father and inherit his fortune: sensual, attractive, deep, full of unexpected turn.
24th July, 2017

Jardenia by JAR

Heavily-indoled gardenias, so heavy you can almost feel it's sticky weight on your wrist. But there's still a ghost like greenness, haunting there for first couples of minutes. The animalistic aspect of gardenias reveals itself at very beginning, and getting more obvious after one hour, as the sweetness fading away.

Unsurprisingly, after about four hours, what's left is dusty musky scent. The flowers are gone, then dead bodies buried underneath reveal themselves.
24th July, 2017

Jarling by JAR

Liquid happiness.

Heliotrope and almond blast first, and sweet soft mimosa come in. Then it stays that way for hours and hours.

Then the almond half of heliotrope start to dominate over its puffy sweetness. A hint of...soapy notes(???) appears sporadically. I think this is the end.

Now in retrospect, I suspect it's a high quality linear notes with multi facets.
24th July, 2017