Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Carboytony

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Total Reviews: 78

This is Not a Blue Bottle 1.3 by Histoires de Parfums

This is one of my top 5 fragrances. This little bottle has been in every vacation and business trip I've gone on in the past three years.

An opening salvo of juicy, lustful blood orange is made carnal - pornographic even - by saffron, itself exotic, wanton and growling. This duo is joined by a sweet, best heady rose note. Leather and patchouli, the bad girls and dirty boys of the fragrance world are your bed partners in the base notes. To me, this is an indolic fragrance, inherently lascivious, powerful, seductive and inviting.

I've heard people say it's not office friendly. Pshaw! Flaunt it, love it, ooze sex, after all, sans l'amour il n'y a que la mort.
13th May, 2020

Onycha (A Solstice Scent) by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

A stunning incense fragrance, it smells golden to me, if that makes sense. There is this beautiful hint of salt to it as well. Dirty and leathery landanum in the base.

Another new favorite from Dawn!
11th May, 2020

Dzongkha by L'Artisan Parfumeur

I'm not normally one for Iris scents, they don't fit well with my skin chemistry. This is an exception, the leather accord slays some of the misbehaviors of the Iris.

On my skin, it's definitely leather (suede to my nose) and Iris heavy, and it's a beautiful match. Sweet and floral lychee as well as peony come into focus, lightly, every now and then. An Eastern Incense smokily floats in the background, with hints of spiced chai - nuances of cardamom. Papyrus and vetiver, sharp and grassy escort you to the dregs of this fragrance.

Duchaufour is one of my, if not my favorite perfumer.
11th May, 2020
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Become the Shaman by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

This was created for Cafleurebon in 2017 as part of Project Talisman for the 7th Anniversary of the blog. The perfumes from the project are more pertinent now than ever.

Dawn used the animist and nature-based faiths of the indigenous Americans - North, South and Central - to create this amazing fragrance.

This is the best Palo Santo perfume I've ever smelled!

The top notes provide a sharp, green, true-to-life Milkweed accord, which takes me back to my childhood, breaking apart the Milkweed stalks to see the creamy, gummy "milk" inside. Then we move on to the ancient cleansing scent of Palo Santo, holy wood. It's creamy and smoky, purifying, cleansing and powerful. Hints of Copal and Guaiacwood accent the Palo Santo. Drydown further reveals wisps of tobacco, cedar and tonka. A little sweet, a little different wood texture.

A remarkable fragrance and I love it.
11th May, 2020

Silver Sky by Alkemia Apothecary and Perfumery

This scent is part of the 2020 Spring Awakening Collection

This is the smell of a rainy spring day, the early and mid spring flowers abloom. A wonderful light, musky, and sightly salty rain accord marries with the intoxicating May Day scent of Muguet (Lily-of-the-Valley), lush Green Galbanum and softly sharp daffodil (Narcissus). Nuances of most heavenly Silver Needle Tea (BaihaobYinzhen) lurk politely and ravishingly in the background. An amberish cedar reveals itself in the drydown.
09th May, 2020

White Queen by 4160 Tuesdays

This fragrance is like a symphony of smoothy, velvet lactones. It's creamy, dare I even say buttery? A very rich-yet-not-sweet whipped cream with hints of grapefruit and raspberry leaf comprise the bulk of the top and middle notes on my skin. Jasmine and labdanum are also visitors in the middle and base notes.
07th May, 2020

Colonia Intensa Oud/ Colonia Oud by Acqua di Parma

This isn't quite that loud of an Oud, but it works for me.

This isn't a fetid oud, but a refined one. Still oudtastic, it starts with a bright glimpse of Italian Citrus, fresh and tasty. A leathery oud arrives, trumpeted on the wings of coriander and Amyris Wood. Patchouli and musk in the base add even more voluptuous dirtiness, but elegantly.
07th May, 2020

Sensei by Piotr Czarnecki

I get what can be interpreted as a chocolate vibe from this. But it's really the beauty of the deliciously inebriating whiskey, mixing with the sweet leafy tobacco, spices and the jolting java note of coffee beans. Into the drydown Piotr adds another warming note: amber. This rich amber is mated with myrrh, labdanum and musk to provide a warm blanket of base notes.
07th May, 2020

Bluegrass by EastWest Bottlers

Moss and field grass (not the type that's growing in your lawns) make up the bulk of this scent. A mere hint of amber and a spicy pepper note make up the remainder of this. The effect is a beautiful, light, slightly aquatic fragrance. This comes as a splash cologne only, though I'd decant to an atomizer.
07th May, 2020

Dirty Velvet by Vilhelm Parfumerie

Opening with a quick burst of sweet, decadent Honey Pomelo, this quickly transitions to lush notes of ripe, fresh fig. Light and delicate, it's bolstered by the sharp notes of Vetiver, which mingles quite well with it. Add in a sprinkle of salt and some warm leafy tobacco and you've got the the drydown right into the creamy notes of sandalwood at the base.
07th May, 2020

Clash : Chlorophyll Gardenia by Comme des Garçons

I really love this, it's green, then floral, then ozonic, then a merger, then individual notes again. It is a clash, but the notes work so, so well together!
The crisp green notes include a bit of spearmint and some glorious galbanum. The Gardenia is equally prominent, followed by an ozonic high.
07th May, 2020

Salvia Sclarea by Tom Daxon

I tried this back in late 2016 and loved it, put it on my wishlist, but I hadn't smelled it since, and my tastes have been honed.

It's still absolutely wonderful. Salvia Sclarea Is the Latin name for Clary Sage, and this perfume provides a wonderful bracing dose of it. There is a green note, reminiscent of grass with violet leaf running through this as well (both are listed notes), adding a wonderful textural facet. Elemi wafts through as well, and with the musks and Cashmeran gives you an almost nutmeg-like note, warm and spicy.
07th May, 2020

Mokhalat Dubai by Al Rehab

This is a perfume oil and how! On my skin it's a rose bomb, Damascus Rose, with hints of oud - very light hints, peppery spices and a bit of a cedar note. It's definitely a rosey pick-me-up.
07th May, 2020
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Voile d’Encens by Motif Olfactif

This is a sweet, smokey incense fragrance. Notes of pear and rhubarb add a bit of fruity sweetness to the potent aromatics of olibanum (frankincense). Rhubarb also adds in a bit of tartness, and pairs well with the woody sharp notes of vetiver and oak. A lovely rose note comes on faintly in the drydown, adding a but of floral sweetness. Elemi is an event element in this which adds more olfactory beauty to this wonderful fragrance.
07th May, 2020

Eau de Mandarine Ambrée by Hermès

This is a beautiful warm Mandarin Orange scent. I wouldn't describe it as a juicy fragrance, it's drier, more like a fresh Mandarin, hanging ripened on the branch and with the woody and leafy nuances. The amber is pronounced on my skin and pairs really, really well with this. It adds warmth and softens the sweetness and sharpness of the Mandarin. The Passionfruit lends it's presence in the drydown, exotic, sweet and fruity.

Spray it on your clothing to get added longevity.
07th May, 2020

De Toma à Zouma by Motif Olfactif

On my skim I'm pushing something very, very animalic, but that's my weird skin, so I'll discount the and describe the best that I can.

This scent is freshly ground coffee beans, complimented by the warm, gourmand notes of cardamom, nutmeg, cocoa, and vanilla. It's like a coffee chai! Benzoin is also very prominent for me, it adds a brisk, sharp note, a nice contrast to the gourmand notes.
07th May, 2020

Over The Chocolate Shop - Dark Cherry & Almond by 4160 Tuesdays

The luscious divine scent of cocoa, with hints of coffee, hazelnut, and vanilla is enhanced with the seductive sweetness of Dark Cherry, and the slight sweet bitterness of almond.
07th May, 2020

Nectar Boisé by Motif Olfactif

This is a delicious spring and summer scent.

On my skin I pick up ionones in the opening, as well as what seem like floral notes. Then as we drydown luscious ripe fruits pervade, tropical fruits and some berries are what I get. These sweet fruits mingle with creamy sandalwood, giving this a beautiful warmth. In the base notes the sandalwood is really alive, accompanied by grassy vetiver, dark landanum and hints of Tolu Balsam
07th May, 2020

Terra by Vince Camuto

This is what I'd call a warm woody fragrance. I get a good dose of citrus in the top notes and into the drydown. Hints of rhubarb shimmer through, and then sandalwood and tonka take the stage. Vanilla embraces those notes to add a touch of sweet warmth to it and help your it all up.
07th May, 2020

Noir de Noir by Tom Ford

This definitely has the TF DNA in it, there's a certain je ne sais quoi about the TF scents, but you can definitely tell that they're family.

On my skin this is a sweet rose, almost fruity in scent feel. I get a good dose of leathery saffron and slighter nuances of entrancing oud as we get deeper into the drydown. Truffle adds a bit of earthiness as does the hints of patchouli that emerge towards the base. Oakmoss resides at the base and helps pull the strings on this fragrance to hold it together.
07th May, 2020

Métal Hurlant by Pierre Guillaume

This is one of my best blind buys. I just adore this, though I can see why a lot of people say it's not for them.

I could try and break down the accords Pierre created into individual materials or notes I detect. But I'm not going to - it's much more fun to tell you what I really get, what he wanted to convey.

This was created to evoke riding a Harley through the Arizona desert. I'm not a bike guy, but I am car guy, so we're going to pretend it's a '65 Impala with the Caprice package instead.

This opens strong, it's in your face Detroit muscle. To me it's a big gasoline (petrol) vibe, slightly floral, slightly plasticky, but altogether heart-racing. You can hear that big V8 idling, ready to hit the road. It's freshly washed and waxed steel - the hood (bonnet) hot from both the beast within and the pounding desert sun, waves of refraction rising from it, menacing, dangerous. It's the chrome, glistening in the heat, its metallic majesty tingling the nose, mixing with the intoxicating exhaust, as beautiful and deadly as Belladona blossoms. It's the leather - animalic, sexy, powerful, hormonal. It's the tires, the plastics in the interior, adding to that repulsive yet irrestible petroleum note.
07th May, 2020

Freak by Illamasqua

This is a soft-spoken yet powerful floral, dark with mystery and best-unspoken deeds. Black Davana, Datura, Poison Hemlock, Belladona with an incense base.
07th May, 2020

Eternity Flame for Men by Calvin Klein

On my skin, this has the distinct Eternity DNA that runs through the line. It's a leather note scent, enhanced by sweet, sharp pineapple in the top notes, herbal rosemary in the middle and dark, deep labdanum in the base.
07th May, 2020

Le Parfum d'Ida by Neil Morris Fragrances

Le Parfum d'Ida by Neil Morris as a tribute to his good friend and muse (and one hell of an awesome human) Ida Meister

Oh my goodness, where to begin. Another masterpiece by Neil. The perfume is as beautiful as it's namesake.

Opening notes of blackberry and elemi are made to pop with aldehydes and hints of clove. They transition you into a heady floral heart with Geranium, Gardenia, Hyacinth, Narcissus and Ylang Ylang. Oh the florals, so intense, so alive! The base is stunning as well: Resinous myrrh, beautiful Russian Leather, the ionones of Orris enhanced with the beautiful dirtiness of Civet.

Simply amazing and a true work of art.
07th May, 2020

Paradis Provence by Shalini

What an absolutely beautiful perfume! The warm sensuous floral notes of Orange Blossom are accented with slight touches of Jasmine. There is a most delightful Olive Tree note, woody but mellow and airy. Lavender plays in the background with Sunflower and fresh Thyme.

An enchanting, intoxicating fragrance. A trip to Nice in a bottle.
07th May, 2020

2020 The Year of the Sugar Mouse by 4160 Tuesdays

Sugary sweetness à la Cinder Toffee, warm, delicious; spicy aromatic saffron (one of my favorite notes ever); sweet, juicy exotic blood orange. Lovely and delicious. I can't stop smelling my wrists. I also want cinder toffee now haha
07th May, 2020

Oud Octavo by Prosody

To me, this is a very light oud, with Patchouli being more prominent.
A brief rush of Bergamot greets you in the top note, quickly moving into a carousel of patchouli, olibanum, labdanum, and cedar. All beautifully executed. Nuances of coconut add hints of sweetness every now and then. Oud, ever so slight, is ever permeating.
07th May, 2020

Soliflore Ginger Lily by Dame Perfumery

This is such a tremendously gorgeous Lily. It's a powerhouse that will envelope you in the heady scents of a Ginger Lily opening. This unfolds beautifully and has a bit of a Honeysuckle now in the drydown. It's definitely a favorite and I had to buy a bottle the minute I tried my sample.
07th May, 2020

Winter Green by Dasein

This is a perfect winter night scent. Bracing, fresh wild mint is the prominent note on my skin. The smell of Christmas - Evergreen, stays close to the skin but wafts out every so often to remind you of its beauty. Pink peppercorn adds a zesty perk to this, while Pomelo zest as a sweet/tart tang. Light notes of Jasmine Sambac come into view in the drydown with the warm notes of beeswax.
07th May, 2020

Psychedelic Luau by Neil Morris Fragrances

Well Aloha, a Hawaiian party in a bottle!

You're invited to the party by sharp green notes, contrasted with sweet ripe bananas and tart lime and red currant. These notes transition into creamy white flowers, lactones and florals - Gardenia, Carnation, hints of Tuberose. An ozonic ocean, rather a seaside note embraces this fragrance, adding a lift and sparkle unto it. Pineapple and Guava notes waft about, enticing you to take a bite of their exotic splendor. At the base sits the psychedelic patchouli, along with powdery musks.
07th May, 2020