Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Kitty2Shoes

Total Reviews: 113

Hermèssence Paprika Brasil by Hermès

Don't let the name fool you - this is iris and loads of it. Jean Claude Ellena said of it: “A tinctorial wood to colour fabrics red, ‘brasil wood’ gave its name to the country. With its power of suggestion, “bois de braise” sparked my imagination and I chose paprika to illustrate it. By mixing and matching, I recreated its scent, which is more secretive and discreet than its taste.”

The notes are pimento, clove, paprika, iris, green leaves, reseda, ember wood (aka Brazilwood or Pernambuco) and woody notes.

The name is incredibly misleading for most who might even want to give this a sniff. It's really more of an iris focused perfume that it's main variant is the peppercorn or paprika note. The dry down holds those woody notes firms, but they are soft and gentle and not solidly dominate. The iris is not overly powdery and it's ever so soft and satiny.

I found Paprika Brasil to be almost a dark horse among the Hermessences line. I went in not expecting to like it but it has soon become one of my favorites in the line.
18th January, 2019

1889 Moulin Rouge by Histoires de Parfums

Cake pan makeup, heavy rouge lipstick, sweat on mousseline de soie and crepe de chine, powder - tons of powder, tinge of cold cream. Well done.
15th January, 2019

Vert Pivoine by Histoires de Parfums

I'm going to wave my hand at the negative reviews here. I will give you one simple reason why: Vert Pivoine smells exactly like my bouquet on my wedding day.

I had a very simple wedding at the Marylebone town hall in London. My husband went to Selfridges to get me a small bouquet. He chose peonies surrounded by green herbals. I admit when I got the bouquet I hadn't thought much into peonies, but it smelled wonderful all together. The peonies were very light and having all the green herbals together made for a pleasant, but unique scent.

I've been in search of a perfume that captured that and I've found it in Vert Pivoine. Prior to finding this one I had come semi-close with Aqua Allegoria Pivoine Magnifica, which has more a citrus tone to it but was missing the 'green'.

Longevity is about four or so hours, but I find when applied in the folds of the arm or behind the neck I can catch whiffs of it for much longer.
13th January, 2019
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Vidi by Histoires de Parfums

Vidi opens up with an odd minty/fruity/watery number that for all it's worth is quite pleasing. The cucumber note pushes through after a few minutes and it's reminiscent of when spas throw a few cucumber slices in water with ice in those clear water spigots for patrons to 'hydrate' with. Eventually Vidi settles into soft woody notes. I wish the cardamom was strong, but it's not. Saffron and a tinge of vanilla are all I got.

Vidi is surprisingly long lasting. I got over 12 hours of wear from it, although it was mostly the blonde woods and musk scent.
12th January, 2019

This is Not a Blue Bottle 1.5 by Histoires de Parfums

I really like the concept of using all synthetics for a perfume, much as I found 4160 Tuesdays Alpha and Beta intriguing. This is my first sampling of the This is Not a Blue Bottle series, which is considered a 'Yang' perfume. Ozonic and slightly minerally, there is a touch of woody almost cedar notes to 1.5. From what I understand the Karismal Super is really methyl dihydrojasmonate (hedione), which is more a fixer or floral additive with some citrus and I admit it was hidden by the Ambroxan notes, which keep coming across to me as that cedar/wooden note.

1.5 was definitely not my style at all and the short time it was on my skin, about 3 hours, was honestly a blessing for my nose. My husband was unable to really detect 1.5 so this is best as a 'concept'. This does layer well with other perfumes (experiment at your own risk!) and helps boost certain notes or take some to the next level.
11th January, 2019

Veni by Histoires de Parfums

Interesting little number. I picked up a sample based on the listed notes of the perfume. What I anticipated is not what I got. I was expecting a woody gourmand and instead received a heavy cinnamon infused wooden shavings. I barely detected any of the cardamon at all, which was a shame.

Veni is not without happier notes - once the initial overload of cinnamon finally dissipated the saffron and guaiac lasted a good lengthy time, heavily leaning on the wood notes. Veni has some serious longevity, I will give it that. Eight hours after application my body heat was still sending out little waves of vanilla and wood.

Veni isn't bad, but it's not great either. If your a fan of woody notes and can stand the cinnamon that it's worth a go, however having been pumpkin spiced through the last couple of months, I was so over those notes.
10th January, 2019

Paris-Venise by Chanel

I like Paris-Venise as much as I do the Deauville in the same range. Goes on very bright and citrusy. Slowly develops into those green grassy notes and the interplay of the citrus and the grass was a pleasant surprise. Powdery notes are really really subtle and the best part was the dry down - lush amber and vanilla notes with still a hint of the citrus. Longevity was best out of the three with Paris-Venise.
06th January, 2019

Paris-Deauville by Chanel

I really enjoy the rose, jasmine and pettigrain notes on P-D. Very pleasant, hard to hate this one. The patchouli dry down isn't overwhelming and over all a night light Eaux from Pole. This one is silkier and smoother.
06th January, 2019

Paris-Biarritz by Chanel

Opening is like freshly grated citrus rind, very bitter. I didn't like the first 20 minutes of P-B, but it finally floated into metallic watery notes, very shiny and light grey. A good hour later light musk.

Longevity isn't that great, and this one will need to be refreshed often. Spraying on clothing and hair teases out more and if you like a good 5-8 sprays all over, it would work well. Not my favorite of the three Les Eauxs.
06th January, 2019

Boy Chanel by Chanel

Truly a remarkable gender neutral perfume. Bright citrus opening, heavy on the lavender at first, but mellows out slowly into a rose and orange blossom notes. Reminds me a bit of Murry and Lanman’s Florida Water with some rose thrown in. Boy reminds me of a dandy or pastel colored clothing or perhaps a white seersucker suit with a straw hat and ladies walking around with parasols. It harkens back to a imagined simpler time, a bit more genteel and pristine up to the nines.

31st December, 2018

Sycomore Eau de Parfum by Chanel

I had to spend a long good amount of time with Sycomore. The opening notes are brash and extremely off putting. I admit I was scared off my first smell test on the paper strip - astringent, headlong, sharp, very in your face about it. Coming back to it again, on the paper the woody notes are extremely prominent, still very edgy like freshly cut wood.

On my skin it's a very soft and velvety wood, nicely balsamic and very comforting. On my husband the juniper notes are more prominent and it truly does change and meld with whomever the wearer is. Sycamore is a clear winner in the eyes on my better half when he asks for another wear of it and perhaps it does appeal to the masculine nose more than the feminine.

Sycomore is another example of why perfumes on paper often deceive and are best tested on the skin. I also enjoy that each wearer bring different notes to the forefront.
31st December, 2018

31 rue Cambon Eau de Parfum by Chanel

Wonderful lush Chypre, or as perfumer Polge himself describes it as an “oakmoss-free chypre.” I've purchased 31 Rue Cambon in sample form three times now and I really should just splash out for a full bottle. It has easily won my heart above all the Les Exclusifs line up. This one is not for the shy or timid either. Notwithstanding the simple notes listed, 31 Rue Cambon is a complex fierce perfume and not so easily deciphered. I get hints of leather, musk, even a bit of sweat. 31 Rue Cambon has an odd habit of disappearing from my skin and popping back up. It's as though we go on a scent adventure together

After the first hour or two the dry down settles into this dirty patchouli, which I should hate, but vetiver and iris subdue and calm down the patchouli, almost relaxing it a bit. Near the end of the day there is a warm comforting radiance to it. I honestly find it hard to put into words, it's just a truly astonishing brilliant perfume.
31st December, 2018

No. 18 Eau de Parfum by Chanel

A strange number that lies somewhere between Egoiste and Bois de Iles. Wonderfully done ambrette, but I'm not a fan of the iris in this one, gets a bit too powdery for my tastes. For a fraction of the price I would prefer to reach for Egoiste and if I'm going to splurge I'd prefer to go with the Bois de Iles. But, that being said if your looking for BdI without the punch and looking for a tamed back masculine from Egoiste, No. 18 is a fine choice.

No. 18 can be worn equally well by both sexes in my view.
30th December, 2018
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1932 Eau de Parfum by Chanel

Flows along the wave of a typical Chanel perfume - woody aldehydes with florals. I get a heavy peak of lilac and carnation above all other florals. It's a much more brighter and lighter than others in the Les Exclusifs range. Later on as 1932 dries down it becomes more satiny, a bit more grown up and strangely a bit more green.
30th December, 2018

Gardénia Parfum by Chanel

This is for the Gardenia from the Les Exclusifs line.

This one packs a punch. A solid punch, enough to knock over a cynic of gardenias in perfume. I wanted to hate it before trying it. Gardenia is a happy and bright floral, a shining white light with butterflies flitting about in the air and a rainbow in air and probably a prancing unicorn for good measure thrown in. This is the Disney princess in perfume form. Extremely young and girly and fresh, so incredibly fresh with notes of honeysuckle, although none are listed, I still detect it. I should be singing a song about love outside while dancing around with birds flying in the space around me like Aurora from Sleeping Beauty.
29th December, 2018

La Pausa Eau de Parfum by Chanel

Woody powdery iris. Chanel states this is to be a contrast of the iris flower and a single note perfume. There is still lots of complex facets within La Pausa that are reveled upon each inhalation. Earthy and woody, yet light and powdery, but not throbbing headache inducing over the top powder scent as I get with L'Heure Bleue, but a softer, almost a finely milled setting powder feel to it.

Not one I would wear, but I can appreciate how simple, yet how complex this one is.
29th December, 2018

Jersey Eau de Parfum by Chanel

Light musky floral that has a great dry down base to it - almost chocolatey or dusty cocoa. The opening grass notes thankfully don't last too long before Jersey lingers around a wonderful floral melody. Much like I'm finding with other perfumes from the Les Exclusifs line, the best parts shine after a good hour after initial application.
29th December, 2018

Bel Respiro Eau de Parfum by Chanel

Nice and soft, green and floral plays nice together. Daffodil notes saunter up after a good hour of wear. Agree with Bavard that Bel Respiro would be a well chosen intro to a major house perfume as it's light and can't find a single fault. Hard to overspray with this one. Longevity is the only issue in terms of projection, but Bel Respiro still clung tightly to the skin.
29th December, 2018

Beige Eau de Parfum by Chanel

Beige lives up to it's namesake, almost a neutral palette of simple not quite there notes and slowly transforms into a spirited collection of honeyed white florals. Beige takes a while from application to open up and show it's true colors and best applied onto the skin rather than paper to test. I'm kicking myself for not buying a full bottle at duty free when I had the chance. Wonderfully understated, substantial yet soft.
29th December, 2018

Acqua di Giò Absolu by Giorgio Armani

Longevity was not the strong suit of Aqua di Gio Absolu. What I could get out of the 2 hours of wear before it disappeared on my skin was a generic aquatic/marine and wet docks vibe. It's not bad, on the contrary, but nothing special made it stand out either.
28th December, 2018

Y Eau de Parfum by Yves Saint Laurent

Sage and a bit of fruity top, apple notes are extremely juicy. Very clean and aquatic. Much better than the EdT, soft and sharp at the same time and very pleasing scent. Juniper notes give it a small batch gin company vibe here and there.
28th December, 2018

Cuir de Russie Parfum by Chanel

On paper - wonderful floral leather. Everything everyone has written about it came billowing in my nostrils.

On my skin - deep floral leather with an overtone of excrement. I honestly don't know why, but it does. I can't wear it. I tried on different days, same results.

Therefore I will give it the benefit of the doubt and stick in the middle.

Lesson learned - always test on the skin before you do a full buy, especially for this price point.
28th December, 2018

Mr. Burberry Eau de Parfum by Burberry

Much nicer and more rooted that the original Mr. Burberry EdT. Excellent balance of spice and citrus. Bit and bobs of herbal notes come in and out, none overwhelming. Excellent purchase for a mall scent or even TJ Maxx find (where I found mine). Not necessarily just for guys only, smells fab on my skin too.
28th December, 2018

Hermessence Iris Ukiyoé by Hermès

Nice and soft iris notes. Just like there are variations for roses, so to for the iris. This one is close to a light violet smell and reminds me of a certain area of the horticultural garden I used to visit with all the blooms laid out. There is no powdery notes here - very light, very airy and what I've come to except out of the Hermessence line in general and I kick myself for not picking up a bottle of this or even trying it earlier due to the name of the perfume. The rose in this one isn't overwhelming here

Settles to a citrus white floral and bits of aquatic notes. Hugs the skin in a gentle way.
21st December, 2018

Interlude Man by Amouage

Thick, sticky, resinous leather. Reminds me of the leather seats of older cars in which you just can't get a certain smell out of because it's been aged with it. After a few hours the incense in Interlude reminds me of the massive amounts of incense from church services (black frankincense resin, gold frankincense resin, styrax scented oil, maybe some myrrh).

The dry down at the end of the day, what is left on my skin before bed, is lovely, however I don't want to wait 8 plus hours to get there.
21st December, 2018

Vodka on the Rocks by By Kilian

I'm truly mixed. Opening is like receiving a tall glass of vodka and tonic on ice - the cool and crisp bubbly bit with some garnish on the rim of the glass. After the dry down it reminds me a bit of 4160 Tuesday's Beta perfume - a bit of something or a bit of nothing depending on how your nose catches the scent. Good longevity that shifts into a marine/aqueous accord, but I can think of at least three other aqueous perfumes with similar notes I'd prefer to wear instead and for half the price.

Great for an office scent for both men and women who want something that won't offend, or only be noticed in the close confines of an elevator, then this is a great choice because it can be barely detectable at times.
21st December, 2018

Volutes Eau de Parfum by Diptyque

Has an odd minty opening for me that settles into a honeyed smoke almost incense like. Powdery tobacco at the base. The odd mix of tobacco, honey, and powder surprised me that it melded so well together.
19th December, 2018

Hermèssence Santal Massoïa by Hermès

Bright and green figgy opening that settles into strips of freshly peeled bark. Solid woody base with atmospheric qualities.

Plainly put - I did not like Santal Massoia upon first spray/opening. Fig has to really wow me over, and Santal Massoia blows me out of the water. Don't dismiss this one at first sniff, wear it for a while and the skies will part after a good 15 or so minutes of wear. Take the time to allow this one to show you how great it can be. I agree this is one of the best in the Hermessences line.
19th December, 2018

Quel Amour! by Annick Goutal

Lush, noshy floral. I detect a varied array of white, blue, and purple florals which borders on soapy at times. Fruity bits and bobs float in after a good long dry down. Sadly this is just not for me, but it's a well done bright and vivid floral.
19th December, 2018

Citrus by L'Erbolario

Citrus fruit and peel on steroids. Bitter and piercing.
19th December, 2018