Bermuda Cruise 2000....
A wonderful fragrance that I obtained onboard a cruise ship while sailing to Bermuda with my family. The packaging was novel at the time and made for easy and quick application.
Fresh apple and lime notes dominate the opening and rose/patchouli/vanilla/musk notes work in unison for a truly memorable dry down. Longevity and projection are outstanding at nearly 8-10 hours.
I've probably purchased about ten bottles of Dunhill Desire since that 2000 cruise and I have not noticed any discrepancies in quality. It's a very well crafted fragrance and considering the affordable price; it's pretty much a no brainer addition to your scent wardrobe if you want something fun but classy. A word of caution is to go easy on application, since this can be a monster if overapplied....
I really wasn't expecting much from this considering the extremely low cost that I obtained from a discounter; however I'm pleasantly surprised by the overall experience!
Grapefruit, black pepper and sandalwood are the most detectable notes to my nose, over a light bed of spicy lavender and a touch of vanilla. I can't say I detect rhubarb since I'm unfamiliar with that particular note. It's fresh and green whatever it is, and I mean that in a positive way.
The quality of Dunhill 51.3N is actually really good and the projection and longevity are excellent! I'm reminded of both Floris Santal and Coriolan Guerlain to a certain extent, as this too would make for an amazing business scent.
The glass bottle is also a keeper; which touts quite a heft and a machine drilled magnetic cap! Nice job, Dunhill!
Boucheron Pour Homme has been a mainstay in my fragrance wardrobe since 1991 and I've always relied on its sharp elegance to assure that I'm dressed for the occasion.
Many reviews have mentioned a reference to the classic Dior Eau Sauvage, and I cannot see it at all. Boucheron Pour Homme is much more akin to Chanel Pour Homme, Tiffany for Men, Coriolan by Guerlain and it even shares some similarities to Le 3e Homme de Caron.
According to Fragrantica:
Top notes are orange, lavender, mandarin orange, basil, lemon verbena, bergamot and lemon; middle notes are carnation, orris root, jasmine, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley and rose; base notes are sandalwood, tonka bean, amber, musk, benzoin, oakmoss, vetiver and incense.
Silage and longevity are outstanding in both the edt and edp versions, but do go easy on application since Boucheron Pour Homme can be a monster if overapplied. A formal, dry citrus woody aromatic masterpiece of the highest quality!
Sortilege by Le Galion is a high quality essence of femininity. Strikingly beautiful soft floral notes elevated to the surreal with the use of superb aldehydes over a base of fine musks, sharp woody notes and subtle fruits.
Created by the brilliant Paul Vacher in 1937, Sortilege soon became Le Galions signature perfume and was soon adopted by the American elite with great enthusiasm. In fact, Sortilege was the house fragrance for the famous Stork Club in NYC, who had their very own immense supply of specially packaged Sortilege perfume as giveaways to special guests. Many photographs still exist online of numerous celebrities with their "free" bottles of Sortilege perfume while dining at the Stork Club.
By today's standards it's a very old fashioned floral-aldehyde perfume that recalls a bygone era where women wore gloves and hats while out in public, lunched with other ladies, awaited a man to open the door, etc...
I have not tried the "Long Lost" version nor have I tried the newly relaunched Le Galion Sortilege. This review is based on several vintage bottles collected over the years from the 1940's, 1950's and 1960's which have marvelous longevity and is a testimony to the excellent quality of Le Galions perfumes and products.
Aggressively sharp and biting right from the start. Like an enthusiastic greyhound at the start of a race, as it madly dashes out of the gate. Alas this is not the winner. It mellows and tires before finishing, with noticeable baby powder notes in the dry-down. Projection and longevity are beyond belief, but after the first few hours you're fatigued from wearing.
This was my best friend from High Schools signature scent back in the 80's. It drove me crazy for some reason, and induced sneezing when applied. I tried on many occasions to wear (and understand) Monogram by Ralph Lauren to no avail.
Slightly sharp citrus bergamot/aldehyde ladened opening, very dry lavender, punjant incense, cyclamen, heliotrope over a mildly musky base with a touch of synthetic woods.
*Envision Helmut Lang Cologne and Gucci Rush for Men having a love child.....
This fragrance was advertised heavily in magazines and department store circulars, and the bonus gift with purchases were very lavish and generous. Free engraving on the bottles was virtually unheard of at the time!
Why did it fail? I've always suspected that this fragrance was toxic. Don't ask me why, but there was something quite unsettling about wearing it, and a general feeling of discomfort with your breathing. Of course nobody will ever admit to that now (for fear of lawsuits), but at the time it was really mysterious how this disappeared from the marketplace so fast; especially knowing all the investment by RL and Warner-Lambert into the packaging and promotion of Monogram. I don't ever remember a fragrance disappearing from stores and being sent back to corporate after less then a three year run, without explanation nor going to a discount chain. Very odd....
I still have a few deluxe sample vials, and occasionally sniff them. I still sneeze and laugh at myself for trying again to like this after nearly thirty years. Some things in life just weren't meant to be....
Of all the fragrances that I own, Programme Homme by Lancôme draws the most compliments while wearing. My Mother absolutely adored this one on me and my entire staff follows me around like a lost puppy.
After having worn since it's launch back in 1987, I still don't completely understand it's powerful hold over others. The basic formula of lavender, geranium, carnation, jasmine, lemon over a oakmoss, laudanum, woody base is pretty much a standard classic woody fougere. The quality of ingredients and the masterful blending of composition is well above average fare and stands apart from a crowded perfume segment. Longevity is killer with 10+ hours with moderate to high silage, and this is obtained from a edt splash!
Why did this fail when it was so good?
Well, Lancôme launched an excellent men's grooming line called "Programme Homme" in 1987, and it was sold exclusively at finer department stores. This fragrance (of the same name) was launched with the new mens skincare products and was never intended to be sold behind any counter other than Lancômes. Despite advertisements in major men's magazines for both the fragrance and skincare line, most men never knew it existed since it was nestled in with the ladies cosmetics. It was sadly discontinued along with the excellent Programme Homme Skincare line around 1994.
A few years ago I stumbled on several boxes of vintage Programme Homme edt splash in an obscure perfume shop in Manhattan. The boxes were rather aged but the liquid inside was absolutely perfect! *Remember that in the '80s and early '90s the majority of mens fragrances were mostly splashes and the boxes did not have a cellophane wrapping.
If you are a fan of Chanel's Egoist, Sybaris by Puig or Le 3e Homme de Caron you should seek out a bottle of Programme Homme de Lancôme. I don't think you'll be disappointed.
This is another "old money" scent that recalls class and elegance. What sets GIT apart from the other 80's powerhouses is the use of Florentine Iris, a high quality Sandalwood from Mysore and real Ambergris extract; all masterfully blended in a rather simple formula. The Violet note adds just the right touch of sweetness and balances nicely with the touch of Lemon.
I can't say that this fragrance is particularly unisex as since I have never smelled this on a female. Green Irish Tweed has had many accolades over the years, but I've always purchased it because it's elegant and pretty much perfect for any occasion. Silage and longevity are outstanding as well they should be for the price of purchase.
I remember when in the late 1980's a new breed of men's fragrances were emerging. Aromatic aquatic fresh fougeres (AAFF) were led by New West, Cool Water and Eternity.
With this new class of fragrances, all of the previous traditional men's 80's powerhouse scents were considered old, heavy and suddenly out of style. The effect of these AAFF scents continues to this day and have been rigorously copied and campaigned by virtually every designer and fragrance house on this planet. Almost to the point of overkill in my opinion.
The extremely gifted Pierre Bourdon was the nose responsible for Cool Water. Just amazing that only seven years earlier he was also the creator of that 80's powerhouse Kouros; another fragrance the defined the earlier portion of that decade.
I like Cool Water but I'm also reminded that every guy back in the late 1980's and early 1990's wore this one to death, hence the neutral rating. Along with Eternity, you could not go anywhere in public without inhaling this from a stranger in a contained space. The subways, airports, malls, clubs and bars reeked of these AAFF variations for years to follow. It's almost as if in one fell "SWOOP", the dominance of New West/Cool Water/Eternity killed everything in its path between the years of 1988-1996. Gone were the heavy exotic creations like Patou pour Homme, Jean Desprez Versailles, Derby by Guerlain as manufacturers and fragrance houses rushed to join the AAFF bandwagon.
It's been mentioned numerous times by Basenotes reviewers that Cool Water is an "older guys scent", or perhaps what your "Uncle, Dad or Grand-Dad" wears. This makes me laugh, as perhaps all those "Club Kids" who wore Cool Water/Eternity back in the late 80's and 90's are now settled down with families and they are still sporting the same scent, refusing to let go.....
1989 Nassau, Bahamas vacation....
Shopping along Bay Steet I stumble upon a perfume shop that contains scented treasures from foreign lands that one can only dream about. Inside the rich mahogany cases are designer fragrances that I have never heard about, and one unusually beautiful bottle is calling my name. It's Montana Parfum d' Homme and its scent is as exhilarating as the bottle itself.
Dry, exotic, spicy, leathery, potent; it's a most unique fragrance that I will never forget "when and where" I was when purchased. A time capsule moment in my life!
Now 28 years later, I still love and wear PdH. The quality and projection of this scent is rarely matched by anything else in the marketplace. The closest relative is Havana by Aramis, and although very similar; Parfum d' Homme is much richer and more complex. Like the island where purchased!
Sadly I have heard that PdH is now discontinued. This really doesn't surprise me since everything else that I really enjoy and love is now a fleeting memory and a brief review on a website. I'll have to "stockpile" a few extra bottles while I can, and although "Parfum d' Homme Light" is similarly nice and readily available online; it's lacking the original depth that made Montana PdH the standout of uniqueness back in 1989.
One of the great beauties of the early 1980's that defines elegance, reserve and understatement.
The bright citrus opening leads into a very complex heart filled with dry herbs and spicy florals, while the refined woody base mixes with leather, moss and amber fighting for dominance. I've always detected a somewhat dry tobacco in Versailles pour Homme, although there is no reference to this being verified.
One of the joys of wearing this well crafted elusive scent is that it's so rare and unknown that you'll be the only person in the room who is wearing Versailles pour Homme. An exclusive to you and you alone, especially now that it's been long discontinued.
I have always enjoyed wearing VPH with suits for business and formal. When it was discontinued in the late 80's I bought a surplus of various bottles that I safely stored away. Now 20+ years later, I'm down to about two bottles that I use very sparingly.
Alternatively I have found that Tiffany for Men and Corolian by Guerlain are the closest relatives to Versailles pour Homme, and they all share that dry, reserved masculine elegance. A reflection scent of a time when men dressed to impress and their selection of a fragrance was just as important as choosing the proper tie or the right pair of shoes. Sigh.....
I have been wearing Antaeus for nearly 36 years and it still remains in my Top Ten Favorites.
This is one of the original 80's powerhouses that (for me) defined a generation; along with Patou Pour Homme, Kouros, JHL, Versailles, Polo, etc.....
After all these years Antaeus remains boozy, leathery and it downright reeks of old money and sex! It's certainly a fragrance that wears you and makes absolutely NO apologies about it.
I reserve wearing Antaeus now for special occasions, and most recently wore it to a very formal wedding. I had forgotten how powerful the projection of this is, and was accosted by various partygoers (of both sexes) all evening; telling me how incredible I smell.
While the IFRA guidelines have affected many fragrance houses and reduced many scents to a pale shell of what once was, the current formulation of Antaeus is still quite good. A bit lighter and a tad more floral then before, but still utterly beautiful and downright sexy. It still reminds me of old money.....
This has been around for ages and is readily available at most US drugstores for a relatively low price. Non offensive, clean, crisp and linear. Stays close to the skin with a very soft projection. Alyssa Ashley Musk is unisex, but has a tendency towards the feminine with a slightly artificial powdery floral note. The opening is perhaps my favorite part of the experience and I'm reminded slightly of vintage 'My Sin Eau de Lanvin', which is LOADED with various musks, although of much richer quality. It's an 'okay' scent, but not outstanding in any perticular way......
Oh how we do admire the House of Guerlain. So much so that we continue to fill their coffers with our hard earned money, just so that we can be rewarded with a fleeting half hour of fragrance bliss. Many of their landmark scents from yesteryear continue to be produced; alas in a much weaker filtration and modified format. A tease of what once was, that you cannot have.
Vol de Nuit is a stunning creation by Jacques Guerlain from 1933. Soft, powdery, mossy-green, slightly soapy and mildly spicy. Not dissimilar to Jicky, MdeM and Shalimar. The "Guerlinade" is clearly evident and is most enjoyable. Albeit too dissipatingly brief.
Sadly the current EDT is so weak that it seems a pity to even bother wasting your money on purchasing. It teases and taunts you for less than a hour and then poof, it's gone. Blame the IFRA and the greedy accountants at LVMH for this one. Bottled water is quite popular, no?
Hopefully I'll live to see a lasting EDP version of Vol de Nuit as well as others from Guerlain. I'm growing tired of being teased....
Vile artificial headache in a bottle. One of only three fragrances that have ever induced immediate nauseous reactions on me. More power to you if you can pull this one off, but alas I'll admire the bottle from afar.
This was once a well kept secret that only those in the know were aware of. A wonderful surge of refreshing citrus, herbs and soft woods to awaken the senses are contained inside a lovely minimalist bottle. The sunny yellow packaging is handmade and adds to the luxury experience. This original Colonia never gets tiresome and considering its approaching its 101st Birthday, it's truly a must have in any fragrance wardrobe.
Having worn the original ADP Colonia for ages, I had high expectations for ADP Colonia Assoluta. It's a quality scent that is very well blended, and the heart of the original is expanded upon here; although it is more floral. Personally I find this a tad shrilling for me, and although nice, I'll stick with the timeless classic original. I adore musky, dusty rooms....
A luxurious tropical treat for the senses! Close your eyes and inhale, as you are transported to your favorite Caribbean hideaway. Rich blend of refreshing lime, coconut, rum over a soft bed of sweet musk. Lovely yet very fleeting. Like a dream vacation, it's over all too soon....
I've always liked the Van Cleef & Arpels fragrance line and I got really excited reading all of the positive reviews here for 'Midnight in Paris'; so much so that I sought out a bottle of the eau de toilette for my personal collection. The fragrance notes listed above come across as a win, WIN! What could go wrong with this fragrance; especially accompanied with such a great bottle?
Well....I do not get any of these listed notes except for incense. I also detect: Lavender, Black Pepper, Licorice, and a very heavy dose of Vanilla. To me it seems to be missing something? Perhaps a dash of Sandalwood and a splash of Juniper might help? Overall it's a nice scent, but not a great scent. Vaguely familiar as since this has been overdone for years (*see Zut de Schiaparelli). Did VCA approach Oliver Polge and ask for a formula that was ready for the market immediately, because they have this amazing bottle that's waiting? It seems like that's the case, and the fragrance here is an afterthought compared to the packaging.
I lived through the 70's, 80's, 90's and 00's without even owning a bottle of Azzaro Pour Homme.
Tested numerous times and always came to the same conclusion of mediocrity. It's a generic non-offensive scent that actually smells nicer on others. *I once had a very young client back in the 80's that was on deaths door, and he smelled divine wearing A.P.H. It's a memory that will forever be imbedded in my mind; to look that bad but to smell that great!.....
From all the positive reviews here on Basenotes, and the fragrance notes listed above; I decided to purchase a bottle and thoroughly wear test. It's nice but linear. I can't say that it's great, nor can I say this is a milestone in men's perfumery. I can say that Azzaro is an affordable fragrance that's wildly available to the masses, and those that enjoy it are passionate about it. I just need more 'oomph' personally for my tastes.....
I've always enjoyed wearing Moustache by Rochas. It's light but fizzy. Nostalgic yet minimalistically modern. I'm sure that the Roudnitska's have added aldehydes, since it sparkles brilliantly and tickles the senses. Mutated fruits, mild citrus, underlining moss, touch of pine. Goes great as a sporty outdoor casual fragrance. Not appreciated by everyone, but perhaps admired more by the barbershop genre. Prelude to Roudnitska's masterpiece Eau Sauvage.....
Seaside holiday affair. Crisp linens, espadrilles, mild sunburn. Slight breeze from the ocean as you sip an overpriced Campari and orange juice whilst listening to the evening combo band playing. Faint aroma of ripe watermelon and sandy beaches. The yacht is ready and waiting, alas it's not your vessel. Until next Summer....
In a blind test I would swear this was a Creed perfume!
Maybe "Silver Irish Himalayan Tweed Mountain"? All the notes are there!
Surprisingly good for a celebrity fragrance and good value for the money, although the longevity is a tad on the weak side....
I rarely dislike any fragrance within the first few minutes, but alas this one was an immediate scrubber. I wanted to love this one, and the citrus family is my preferred fragrance family, but it just made me violently ill. I will never forget the face of the poor sales attendant at Bergdorfs as she escorted me to the gents! Embarrassing yes, but thank goodness I tried this before ordering blind as per my usual habit.
This basic formula has been done to the point of overkill by many other houses, but somehow Givenchy has managed to make it more wearable. It's fresh without being cloying and somehow stays sharply upscale in quality. I don't see the particular need for many aromatic aquatics in my wardrobe, but I certainly would grab for the Givenchy Gentleman Only over the others in this market saturated family.
I'm remided of Cefiro and/or Limes by Floris. Light but substantial. Longevity is good and silliage is above average. Musk base is a bonus. Quality fresh scent perfect for just about any occasion. Excellent packaging as per usual Dior standards. I can see this worn on a hot Summer night on the islands while drinking a mojito!
Why have I waited 30 years to try this gem? I suppose logistics has a part in this as since I live about 50 miles away from the metropolitan cities that stock Lapidus products. I've also stereotyped this because the bottle is very similar to Balenciaga Pour Homme, of which I'm not a big fan.
Anyways, my first impression is VERY favorable! I'm reminded of red fruit punch Kool-Aid and Yves Saint Laurents Kouros. It's a wonderful mix and quite surprising! The pineapple, honey, rose and sandalwood make for a thoroughly enjoyable scent and on me it's very refreshing!
I'm looking forward to wearing this one much more going forward! At $17.00 USD for a 3.3 oz EDT spray, you really can't lose....
When this first came out, I was but a bored 10 year old, killing time until my Mother and Sisters got finished in the fitting room. Stupid old dresses. Anyways, I remember standing at the Halston counter at Strawbridge & Clothier department store and the kind lady attendant allowed me to sample the fragrances. Z-14 was absolutely amazing with its bold burst of lemon and cedar woods; however 1-12 was just as breathtaking with its burst of green notes and soft, powdery musks. The bottles were out of this world and to a young lad, it was like holding the holy grail! (*Back then Z-14s bottle was brown glass and 1-12s bottle was black/dark purple glass.)
I couldn't decide then which one was better and nearly 40 years later, I still cannot pick one over the other. They're both different with 1-12 being softer and more elegant while Z-14 is bold, daring and sporty. Two good friends!
I still wear both 1-12 and Z-14 in constant rotation from my fragrance wardrobe. Regretfully, Z-14 has suffered over time with reformulations. While still a hauntingly beautiful composition, it lacks the longevity and depth it once had back in the late 70's and early 80's. I suspect mostly less oakmoss and musks due to restrictions and perhaps the accountants under pressure to cut costs. Still great value for the money, though. I have heard that Halston himself could not choose between the two scents, so he launched both. I'm just glad that he did!
28th December, 2016 (last edited: 12th February, 2017)
In my world of all things bright and beautiful, I have been wearing Le 3me Homme since it came out in those gorgeous tall splash bottles back in 1985. It has been my signature scent for thirty-one years, and despite being a scent whore, I always come back to this particular fragrance. Understated elegance perfectly suited for any occasion and always appropriate. Perhaps a touch too perfect, but that's part of its charm. I have yet to find another men's fragrance like this one that balances floral, fougere and aromatic all together. It's really a masterpiece as far as I'm concerned. I'm saving a few carefully unopened vintage bottles (loads of rich oakmoss) with explicit instructions in my will that I am to be bathed head-toe in Le 3me Homme de Caron when I "go". They'll smell me for an eternity, but you can't deny me a last request now can you?
28th December, 2016 (last edited: 01st January, 2017)
Has it really been 16 years since L'Anarchiste first came to market? Wow, time does more on!"
This wins the award for most beautiful packaging. The original black box with the impressive copper bottle is truly special and it reeks of quality! I purchased a few as gifts
just because of the packaging!
The fragrance is really good too, and the unique blend of orange, menthol and vetiver set it apart from commonplace. I find L'Anarchiste very modern and somewhat futuristic due to the metallic note which is surprising yet pleasant to my senses.
I haven't tried the new Fraysse reformation and I'm not sure that I want to. Sometimes it's best to remember great things as they were and leave it at that.
Vincent Marcello was a very busy boy in the mid-late 70's and early 80's! The genetic fingerprint in his work is clearly apparent with Caron Yatagan, Halston Z-14 and Phileas by Nina Ricci. Of the three, the Halston is the easiest to wear, but the Yatagan is the most unique. All are well crafted with excellent projection and longevity.
Pine needles, woodworm, castoreum and tons of styrax set this into a frenzy of carnal delight. *Visions of ticked-off lumberjacks tying you naked to a tree in a damp, cold pine forest come to mind. Sorta exposed for the world to see (and smell)!
Yatagan is exceedingly strange and oddly exhilarating both at once. Just don't wear this one to church!