Perfume Reviews

Reviews by HouseOfPhlegethon

Total Reviews: 1269

Secret Teas and Spices : The Moon and I by Floraïku

Gorgeous, spiced tea notes. The type of tea notes I prefer, as I enjoy spices, not weak green tea notes. Slightly balsamic, with the addition of cedar. A pungent cedar... Becomes herbal as the balsamic accord is still present.

Eventually seems more herbal and aromatic. Serene, beautiful, yet simple.
18th February, 2020

Rake & Ruin by Beaufort London

Blast furnace of flavor. Burnt metal. Metal being welded. Fire, smoke, and heat. Freshly snipped conifer branches thrown into a roaring bonfire. Sneezy pepper bits. Carrots - I smell wild carrots.

It doesn't take too long before this calms down a bit. It becomes less intense. I still smell lots of conifer. Some other smoky herbal things move in. A hint of some little, powdery flowers in the background. There is so much going on here. It's a cauldron of aromatics, simmering in some warlock's kitchen. I'm smitten. If I were to splurge on another new bottle, it might be R & R.

It becomes more calm in time, with its relaxing herbal and aromatic flavors. Has less of a smoky ambiance... More wood later with touches of an amber accord. The ending is mellow and smooth. Love it!
16th February, 2020

Enigmatic Flowers : Cricket Song by Floraïku

A fine combination. A bergamot note, I can get on board with. The other notes compliment it well. a basic, floral-green scent. Fresh. Cool. As can be expected, with such minimal notes it is linear but in a friendly way. It makes me smile and makes me feel comforted.

Half an hour later it changes some. Not as strong; the magnolia develops. Becomes delicate. Very feminine.

Transforms into a creamy fragrance, like a fine, triple-milled, scented goat's milk soap.

A slight, honeyed sweetness much later, it continues with a creaminess with a velvety feel as well. A charming perfume.
12th February, 2020
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Green Tea Yuzu by Elizabeth Arden

Zesty, to start. Slightly harsh. Tea with lemon, no cream, no sugar. A little floral-like note creeps in.

Stays greenish, citrusy, with a then vague, tea note. It's missing something for me - pizazz. It seems unfinished.

Citrus hangs around. Still tea-laden but, linear. A smidgeon of musk and birch much later. Faint though. All fades in about three hours, for me. Would've liked more yuzu.
12th February, 2020

Aeon by Filigree Parfums

Earthy, damp, and oakmossy. Darkened lavender with touches of spice and herbal nuances. Deep, resinous patchouli, well-mixed with incense. Slight barnyard vibe underneath it all.

Becomes a bit less earthy and such; a tad more spicy. And, there is a touch of something sweet like floral honey. Overall, not as "old-dark-woody" as some of the others by this house.
12th February, 2020

L'Instant de Guerlain Eau de Noël Iris Millésime by Guerlain

Iris, with what I interpret as a chocolate ghost note. What a blend! Honeyed flowers and amber, create a gourmand accord, to my nose.

Iris, takes over with the other notes singing in the background.

The amber, honey-musk combo still remind me of something gourmand, like a sweet treat, even later. It's just delightful! It gets better with time. Worth sampling, if you can find it.
12th February, 2020

Iris Prima by Penhaligon's

Hard or old-fashioned, candy-sweet smell, like candy cigarettes. Slight green leaf note. Bergamot shows up, then jasmine. Not a whole lot of iris here - just little whiffs. There are some odd notes / moments here, I can't figure out. Anyway, this is flowery for awhile then it begins to fade.

...And fade, it does. The base is extremely pale. It falls flat. It's a blob of mixed notes that hazily doesn't go anywhere. It lacks ambition. More iris would've saved it, from mediocrity.
10th February, 2020

Rima XI by Carner Barcelona

An explosion of aromas, spices, sweet, and gentle savory goodness at first. A hint of something like beef bone marrow underneath.

A mish-mash of various more sweet aromas with a touch of nuttiness move in. Less strong now. Still, aromatic. Develops into a cola-like flavor. It's all almost a bit much. Eventually it begins to mellow and even out.

A warm, soft base with an amber accord; subtle, freshly axed wood log smells underneath. A 70's musk. Creamy vanilla.

This fragrance is lovely but, It isn't nearly as well-constructed as it could be. At times the notes seem to be all over the place. It exploded at first then it just fizzled. Still, I give it three stars.
10th February, 2020

Paris-Biarritz by Chanel

Aqua-fruit. Fresh. Not overly interesting on top. Kind of smells like a fruit juice made by some big, corporate conglomerate - something one might add wine to, to create a wine spritzer from decades ago.

Then, some white flower appears. A bit green, a tad garden-ish.

This is a somewhat dainty perfume. Never develops a crescendo. Remains rather linear as well. Pops of vetiver later, mingled with a pale musk. Borders on sporty or aquatic overall.

I expected more from Chanel for this one. Is it nice? Yes. Has it been done before? Probably. Gone in less than three hours...
05th February, 2020

Anonymity by Filigree Parfums

A marvelous blend of notes. A woodsy, forest breeze. Greenish and medicinal. Herbal. Nicely balanced florals. One of the best Green perfumes I've smelled in some time. Very crisp. Lavender grabs ahold of you in waves, but this is one of the few notes that really stands out for now.

Juniper rises, like the scent of a fine gin, without being boozy. The vaguest of hints of something sweet weaves in and out. Long-lasting and unique.
05th February, 2020

Mon Guerlain Eau de Parfum Intense by Guerlain

Intense at first - definitely. Big flowers. Rather boozy and darkly tropical, to start. Iris and rose stand out but, more like in the "background" of things.

Base rises and the note combo to me, resembles Tonka bean. I get a resinous, almost incense wave throughout the ending of this fragrance. There is a natural sweetness. Sugary woods. Dark vanilla. I enjoy this version of Mon Guerlain more than the original. It's kicked-up a bit more. More of an evening than day frag. More grown-up.

I get more vanilla later, and, it lasts awhile.
04th February, 2020

Green Tea Cherry Blossom by Elizabeth Arden

Not bad. Not exciting enough for me, though. I wanted more flower. Summery, or spring-like scent. Greenish. A slight bitterness. Teas, yes, to the nth degree. Slight, pencil-shavings wood thing.

Tea mellows. It stays greenish. Nothing offensive - a decent workplace frag. Non-sweet. Smells as if it was made, in a hurry, to capitalize on the whole Green Tea "franchise."
03rd February, 2020

Gabrielle Essence by Chanel

Girly fruits. Some sort of berries - red currents, maybe? Very juicy. Flowers begin pouring in after the fruit. Lots of orange blossom. It calms down. Mellows, less fruity. Other florals join in, stay the course. Nothing overly remarkable here, for my nose. Safe fragrance. Pedestrian.

A bit of sandalwood appears first, before the other base notes kick in. It's tamped down, with residual berry flavor-sweetness. Slight, vanilla later. Still, safe-mode, gift-like, for the non-connoisseur of perfumes. Nothing I'd buy in volume.
03rd February, 2020
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Myrrh & Tonka by Jo Malone London

Not much of a top, middle, or base here - Everything seems to come together all at once. It reminds me of a liqueur I've drank in the past. Seems a bit creamy to my nose so far. Nutty and resinous, too.

I get more Tonka later and it's of a cola or root beer vibe. This frag is linear, in a good way. It's sweet mostly. Moreover, it IS one of the best Tonka scents I've ever tried!
03rd February, 2020

Vanille Tonka by Nicolaï

An herbal, citrus opening that's not over-done with citrus. Just enough. It has a vague rubber tire vibe in the background. The latter of which passes quickly. (Maybe, it's just my nose smelling this.) A spicy mix with florals moves in, moments after spraying. Pepper and cinnamon pop; they are tingly in a way, effervescent. Orange flower and cinnamon marry well here.

Slowly the vanilla creeps up. It's a hard-candy vanilla, at times super sweet, blended with the other base notes. I get a kind of churchy incense, adding to the beauty here. Overall, a damn fine vanilla-centric fragrance.
03rd February, 2020

Shalimar Parfum de Toilette by Guerlain

Very citrusy on top. A slight bitterness to it. Some mustiness underneath. The flowers slowly ease up to meet the citrus. Just enough of each floral that neither overpower each other. Slightly greenish and stemmy. The slightest pops of powdery aspects. So far, so good.

I'd say this version of Shalimar seems a bit "thinner" than edp or edt. Not weak - just lighter, maybe? Can't think of a proper description at the moment. No doubt this is the queen, Shalimar. It transitions slowly into its familiar, base note combo, so rich, heady, soothing, and timeless.

The biggest difference between this and the other formulas is, the bigger blast of citrus in the beginning. And, as usual for Shalimar, it is very long-lasting.
29th January, 2020

D. D. and E. by Filigree Parfums

Dark flowers. Very dirty. Almost too indolic for me, in the beginning... Give it time, and it begins to lighten up a bit. The dirtiness decreases, becomes honeyed without being overtly sweet. A bit of creaminess exists, as well.

Rose and osmanthus voices stand out overall. Not too loud. Later, it turns gentle, with a greenish-floral vibe that lasts about four to five hours.

27th January, 2020

Paris-Riviera by Chanel

Ultra fresh and clean. Sparkling. Fruity hints that aren't over-done. Has a kind of balsamic-buzzy garden smell or flower shop vibe. Very nice! Excellent Neroli note in this one! I'm not always a fan of neroli either. A great fresh-floral perfume thus far.

Lovely too, is the base. Not overly loud, and it marries well with the middle notes. Well made! Four stars.
26th January, 2020

Alioth by Filigree Parfums

Smooth tobacco - not overly smoked or pungent. Tea, with a touch of sugar. Sweet, reefer smell. Churchy, sweet incense like it's honeyed or something along those lines. A good blend so far.

I find most of Filigree's fragrances to lean more masculine than unisex, of the ones I've sampled thus far. This one, is no exception. Alioth is very pleasant, mild even. It's a kind of dark green thing, with a well-behaved tobacco. The tea note is very nice, with lots of depth. I normally dislike Earl Gray. Not here.

I give this 3 and a half stars.
24th January, 2020

Eperdu by Filigree Parfums

This one is a different offering from this "house", as it doesn't have the usual, smoky-tobacco wood thing going on. It does have a lightly smoked, spiced thing but, it is mainly citrus. Slightly bitter. The citrus here is very different. It's a little boozy and it is mashed up with lots of vetiver. A hint of rosiness lurks about.

Eperdu becomes a citrus-green scent overall, with a bit of resin in the end. A maverick take on the usual citrus blends available. Wearable any time of the year, I'm sure.
22nd January, 2020

Le Vestiaire des Parfums : Velours by Yves Saint Laurent

Medium-dark, fuzzy iris bomb, with tea flowing in and out. a resinous vibe moves in and out as well. Very dry for awhile. Somewhat boozy and peppery later on.

A linear fragrance IMO - it does take on a strange, candy-like accord. Must be the vanilla and amber accord that wrestles with the iris. Velours is a bit different than other iris-centric frags. Can come on strong, especially in the beginning. Three stars.
22nd January, 2020

Tubéreuse Vertigineuse by Molinard

Fizzy, boozy fruit opening. Tuberose immediately jumps in. This perfume is intense, with only two little sprays. It's dirty as h*ll, from the florals. The coconut vibe bubbles up, like champagne bubbles rise and fall.

At times I am reminded of powdered, laundry detergent. Not a bad thing - it's just noticeable. At times it also seems damp. The tuberose and jasmine remain dirty for quite some time but, tuberose is the star here absolutely.

Later, this reminds me of Suntanglam by SP Parfums in some ways... The heart softens a bit. The base mixes in. Less indole - becomes more beautiful, refined. Resinous and balsamic woods, married with the flowers make this concoction special. Little pops of soft musk move in. This, is one of the more unusual tuberose perfumes I've tried. The coconut lingers and wanders in and out all through wearing this.

Long-lasting. Tuberose continues on...
21st January, 2020

Gunet by Filigree Parfums

Deep wood. Resinous. Almost an ebony wood soaked, with tobacco-juice accord. Like chewing tobacco spit juice. Intensely dark at first. A slight bitterness. Damp as all hell.

Darkness lingers on into the next half hour. Masculine? Or torture? I am undecided. I believe this one may be hard to pull off for either sex, except as a novelty, artsy, shock scent thus far...

Besides the tobacco juice, wood thing, there is a drop or two of something urine-like in the backdrop / background, close to the skin. And, an almost burnt cocoa shell thing as well, in time.

The intensity of this frag mellows somewhat in the next hour and a half. It is a smoky entity. Best for cold weather for wearing, or sampling. It can be rather linear for most of the ride.

Give it some time and one can sniff some minute vanilla and Tonka and strangled myrrh. A kind of lop-sided fragrance at times.

Many hours later it all mellows softly, exhibits some sweet characteristics, displaying less smoke sh*t, and it gives a bit more sweetness from increased myrrh beauty. Still, I'm not a major fan of Gunet.

15th January, 2020

Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert by Bulgari

An almost boozy, gin-like, citrus opening. Reminds me an Hermes I've tried.

Hints of spice. The top mellows, with coriander carrying through the heart. The florals seem rather delicate.

The base is well-mixed. It's somewhat half creamy and half waxy. Light green tinge to it as well. Not an overly strong fragrance. A decent, warm weather, workday perfume.

15th January, 2020

Aurelia by Filigree Parfums

Dark, almost black rose, with tons of spicy, wintry cloves. Fruit (accord) as if soaked in brandy. Long-steeped tea, without sugar or cream. Musty florals. The whole thing morphs into a combo platter of dark flowers, big clove yet, and a resinous / balsamic blend that stays for quite some time.

Louder ylang ylang rises up later, and still the cloves remain and seem to dominate. Becomes more flower-oriented in time. A lovely, all around, cool month perfume. Amber-ish much later on. One of the better ones by Filigree.
15th January, 2020

Sound & Fog by Filigree Parfums

Intense tobacco at first encounter. Licorice gently flows in. It comes and goes. A ground coffee vibe appears. Old, wood log smell, like one that has laid around outdoors for months. A bit of salty sea.

Later, little hints of sweetness are more prevalent. It tames the outdoorsy accord. The tobacco note takes on a sweet pipe-style.

It all mellows quite a bit later, becomes much smoother and more refined. One of the more "gentle" fragrances from this maker.
14th January, 2020

English Daisy by Yardley

Fresh and green. Not too much apple - just enough. It's a green apple, to me. Garden flowers, also greenish, without any sugary stuff. Tinge of bitterness. This, is an all summer-long fragrance. All bright and sunny. Gentle base, with mild wood and skin musk. Not overly long-lasting but, a nice work-safe perfume.
10th January, 2020

Green Tea by Elizabeth Arden

Mid-range bitterness to start. Mixed, squeezed, almost Real citrus. Not bad so far. I'm sure it is better, in hot weather[?]. Sometimes, heat ruins things. Anyway, the bitterness eventually fades, citrus rules, flowers move in. I only get a touch of tea. Nothing overly amazing or exceptional here.

The florals increase for me later; becomes prettier. Has a light, mellow base. Soft and musky with hints of a fresh garden. Not great for longevity. In the end - not too bad.
10th January, 2020

Lagerfeld Classic by Lagerfeld

A classic, indeed. A spicy, slightly citrus-y, aldehydic opening. Old school - what's not to love here in the beginning?

The top notes merge into the heart, with a well-mixed crowd of notes. Hints of old flowers. They are gentlemen-like. Buzzy tobacco and woodsy things. Near perfection.

In time I get a big tarragon note, mixing with increased tobacco. There is a good, solid retro base at work here. Classic 70's but, not overly dated. Not too much of an amber-accord, it's more woody, darkish, and resinous, in a somewhat balsam way. The oak and opoponax are divine. Overall this is a great one, I think tending towards unisex.
10th January, 2020

Iris by Yardley

I'm a huge fan of iris. I never seem to get enough. Yardley's version does not disappoint. Dusty, powdery. Gentle, very demure. There is "something" underneath I can't identify - a tiny, musky, green thing, that lies on the skin. This fragrance is never loud. It lasts about 2 to three hours on me. It's inexpensive enough one can apply often. A good example of an iris perfume.
02nd January, 2020