Perfume Reviews

Reviews by HouseOfPhlegethon

Total Reviews: 627

Encens Chembur by Byredo

Citrus and elemi on top. Leans more towards elemi. Nutmeg and ginger show up, although the latter is slight. Dark incense. Later, a musk and a touch of labdanum. Something skanky here. Some amber, too.

Not much going on here. I think it's rather dull.
20th November, 2018

Jardins de Bagatelle by Guerlain

Dominant tuberose. Also on top, aldehydes, jasmine, and some citrus. JdB has always started out big and bold IMO. It is a loud floral.

The middle reveals gardenia, lily of the valley, rose, and narcissus. Tuberose of course, still stands out tremendously. Greenish, starchiness a bit later, underneath. The base reveals patchouli, musk, and Neroli. Yes, tuberose lasts throughout. And if you don't like "tubey" you won't like this.
20th November, 2018

Iranzol by Bruno Acampora

Big spice-bomb opening. Patchouli, spices, and resin hit me first. Big galbanum note. Jasmine and rose bounce around. Vanilla and amber do the same. The whole thing turns "green" after awhile, with the spiciness lurking underneath. I get something musky, almost animal-like.

This one is fairly unusual. It reminds me of the color Dark Brown for some reason. It is a combination of an Oriental and a Middle Eastern scent.
20th November, 2018
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Simply Belle by Exceptional

Vague peach and orange on top. I agree with others on the soapiness of this fragrance. Jasmine and Muguet show up, seemingly chasing away some of the soap accord. Faint water lily. Faint musk on the base.

Pretty lame creation. No creativity, I'm afraid. Probably good for spraying sheets but, that's about it.
20th November, 2018

Cabaret by Grès

Beautiful opening with a blend of rose, lily of the valley, and peony. Becomes soapy. Not much LOTV stays - the rose and peony stay strong. Patchouli stands out, in the heart. A little violet appears. Smooth base of musk, incense, amber, and a touch of sandalwood. Pretty!
20th November, 2018

Bijou Romantique by Etat Libre d'Orange

Bergamot, tart lemon, pink pepper, ylang, with a high note of iris, right from the start. Turns bitter. I think the sage and vetiver clash here, for my nose. Bitterness fades. A touch of coconut and more iris develop. Vetiver becomes fresher, on its own. Vanilla and benzoin create an ambery base.

3 stars.
20th November, 2018

Really Most Sincerely Dead by Sixteen92

Gourmand. Breakfast cereal accord. Then I smell dried, flaked coconut that has been toasted. Sweetened milk with a vanilla undertone. Cookie smell begins. I get a slight licorice note that seems to hover above my skin. Darker, boozy, honey later on. spicier, too. Good winter holiday scent.
20th November, 2018

Tai Winds by Avon

70's flashback. I remember some adult males wearing this. My father may have had this - I don't remember. I sure don't remember the shape of the original bottle. I have a different style.

Anyway, great green notes, "old" lavender, and spiciness. Some Tonka, some oakmoss. I consider this cologne to be fairly refreshing. Although it was marketed for men, it isn't too manly on my skin. It really "shines" in warmer weather. Because my bottle is so old, it may explain why this doesn't last very long for me. Reapplications often are necessary.
19th November, 2018

Immortelle Tribal by Givenchy

Honey sweet.
Schnapps accord.
Big, fat fig leaf.
Immense immortelle with a toasted, caramelized flavor.
Thick, dripping syrup bordering on sickly sweetness.
Cloying - I am in love in spite of myself.

A sweet fragrance with some maturity.
If you detest immortelle, you surely must steer clear of this [inserts evil grin.]
Muted sandalwood, much later.
19th November, 2018

1876 Mata Hari by Histoires de Parfums

Citrus, slight sweetness, rose, powdery iris, violet, cumin, cinnamon, and carnation grab me, on the top end of this fragrance. The top and heart notes all at the same time, I've experienced this phenomenon before.

The powdery accord lingers a bit then takes on a smoky amber vibe. It mysteriously smells like an incense or patchouli. The cumin here is not overdone. Sandalwood makes its presence known, as well as musk and vanilla.

I don't think Mata Hari is an overly creative fragrance. I do thoroughly enjoy its onrush of notes. It is easy to wear and very feminine, to me.

I get more of a powdery and sweet essence as it wears on.
19th November, 2018

I Be The Witch Of The Wood by Sixteen92

Wheat and straw, for more rural, childhood memories. Baked bread. Starch notes. A slight apple pancake smell. A touch of smoke. Unfortunately, I don't really smell anything more.
19th November, 2018


Big berry fruit on top. Girly. Tart strawberry. Jasmine & lily of the valley move in next. I get a peach vibe briefly. Strong orris root that is bitter. No rose but, I do smell violet. The "girliness" of this perfume doesn't last, in the teen-fruit bomb sense. More of a "mature" fruit thing. Violet begins to soften as musk appears. Soft strawberry lurks still. Good summer scent.
17th November, 2018

Lakmé by Filigree Parfums

Very unusual, when first sprayed. Lychee, peppercorn, orange blossom, and rose - all together, seem dark. Seems musty. Slight bit of a booze accord. Smells "old school" 70's. Underneath, something smells of old paper.

Dirty jasmine rises. It is blended with a rich, earthy musk. There is an almost old, wood furniture odor - an antique whose surface hasn't been properly dusted or waxed in years. This is dark, sultry, and a throwback to another time, not too long ago.

17th November, 2018
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Collection Grands Crus : Assam of India by Berdoues

No gimmicks.
Fresh-squeezed lemon juice.
Grate of zest.
Soapy note, next.
Fragrant, warm cup of tea - unsweetened.
Sandalwood seems effervescent to me.
Easy to wear.
Good juice.
17th November, 2018

Vetiver by Guerlain

Excellent citrus on top.
Great lemon.
Humble Neroli.
Touch of coriander.
Good, solid vetiver. Whiff of tobacco. Smattering of spices. This one's been on my radar for years. Thanks to a buddy here, I received a sample to try. As a chick, I can easily wear this and be comfortable about it.

I get a slight bell pepper note, much later on.
17th November, 2018

Gilded Fox by Pinrose

Massive chocolate dessert. Very strong and dominating note of cacao. I'm enjoying it. A shot of rum is here underneath. A teaspoon full of buttery flavor later on. The chocolate remains a long time but, eventually a bit of green & wood develops under it all. This, is one of the better "chocolate" perfumes I've tried.
17th November, 2018

Bois d'Ascèse by Naomi Goodsir

Tobacco right from the start.
Cigar tobacco.
Whiskey, on the rocks.
Ultra light cinnamon.
Something dark underneath; woody, smoky, incense-like.
Mostly, I smell tobacco.
17th November, 2018

Niki de Saint Phalle by Niki de Saint Phalle

Big, green notes.
Slight sharpness.
Touch of fruit.
Has that big, 80's vibe.
I've owned NDSP many times before. I'd forgotten how the notes played out. The heart notes are what I look forward to. The carnation here is delightful - not too bitter. Patchouli, jasmine, ylang ylang, and old rose sidle up. Rose sings louder, but with Artemisia chanting in the distance.

The base is light - a skin scent. A Combo of sandalwood, amber, and musk.
17th November, 2018

Vanille by L'Aromarine

Smells like vanilla extract - the stuff used for baking cakes and such. Realistic, pretty much. Basic. Straight forward. Yummy. 'Nuff said.
11th November, 2018

Balenciaga Paris by Balenciaga

Floral and woody.
Touch of bitterness.
Greenish carnation.
Patchouli and cedar are smashed together.
Then, the patchouli begins to shine on its own.
Violet appears. Not too powdery. Not sweet either. It is a pretty room filled with many bouquets of heirloom blooms. It isn't ultra-feminine but, feminine enough for a lady of any age.
11th November, 2018

Visa by Robert Piguet

Sweet & slightly sour fruit opening.
Orange blossom & ylang ylang appear.
No rose yet.
Lovely immortelle.
Vanilla present.
Later - patchouli, benzoin, and vetiver.
Still no rose.
Overall, kind of a gentle sweetness like others I own.
Surprise! Way later it resembles cinnamon. Hmm.
11th November, 2018

Fragile Violet by Eric Buterbaugh Florals

Has kind of a bitter opening with the Mandarin and tea. The lotus and wisteria crowd right in the mix. Bitterness recedes. I get violet leaf. The lotus is strong, for me.

Cedar, amber, and musk base is pleasant. Not too woody. Not sweet. Overall this perfume is "okay" for everyday casual wear. Not what I expected from its name.
11th November, 2018

El Born by Carner Barcelona

Tuned up notes of citrus, boisterous angelica, gooey honey, and super-massive vanilla. Very rich. A spray or two will do ya. Middle becomes a bit smoky, dirty, with benzoin and jasmine. I get some fig - not too much. Strong sandalwood later. Vanilla mellows. Balsam and musk arrive. Assertive and not for everyone.
11th November, 2018

We Are The Weirdos, Mister by Sixteen92

Dark, smoky, something like incense.
Starchy note.
Something burning or smoldering or both.
Tricky, tricky blend this is.
Musk-like vibe underneath, lurks.
Resinous undertones, too - reminds me of opoponax brew.
Creepily beautiful.
11th November, 2018

Formula 86 by Sixteen92

Smells of the farmer's fields in summer, from my youth. Rice powder and sugar cane notes create a whirlwind of throwback memories, of childhood days. Happier times. Naïve times. Of course, the odors here are much stronger than how those fields and crops really smelled. Who cares. I love this!

Warm caramel comes next, with Tonka bean close behind. Becomes darker. Cooked, caramelized sugar with chocolate lurking underneath.

The smell of hay comes forth, hovering, as if blowing about on a warm breeze. Much later, it smells like coffee. This one, is a masterpiece!
11th November, 2018

Intense Cafe by Montale

Mysterious floral top notes. Some sweet, softness here - maybe iris or violet. Coffee and rose work well together. Rich, delicious amber, vanilla, and musk.
One of the least intense or overpowering Montales I've tried. Good enough to drink!
11th November, 2018

Absolutely Vital by Diana Vreeland

Lovely red rose & jasmine first. A layer of Orientalized myrrh and opoponax.
Nut-like accord.
Smooth sandalwood.
The vanilla is tucked away here, mingled with everything else. No overt sweetness in the middle.
Vanilla appears louder, much later, in the base.
11th November, 2018

Arso by Profumum

Brief incense.
Tons of leather.
Underneath I find resin. Later, a dark warm mix of cedar and pine. Becomes smooth; leather returns, sueded.
11th November, 2018

Nirvana Black by Elizabeth and James

Strong sandalwood.
Dusty violet.
Not overly sweet vanilla.
It all comes together as something, not quite boozy.
This fragrance is actually hard for me to describe. It becomes powdery and woody at the same time.
I enjoy it - I just can't create a better description.
11th November, 2018

Safari by Ralph Lauren

Bold and "retro". Big opening notes of orange, marigold, Mandarin, galbanum, and narcissus. Then, some hyacinth. Safari is complex, for the most part. The first few moments almost resemble aldehydes, for me. The middle notes are as well-blended as the top. I can pick out jasmine and rose when deeply inhaled. The middle is slightly more bitter. Galbanum lingers here.

The base reveals sandalwood, amber, patchouli, and a touch of cedar. Overall this fragrance is a Big fragrance. It is assertive - not for wallflowers. I'm glad I got to try this, thanks to a fellow b-noter.
10th November, 2018