Perfume Reviews

Reviews by HouseOfPhlegethon

Total Reviews: 379

Paper Moon by Sixteen92

Review is for the oil. Very autumnal. The vanilla musk is mellow. Benzoin is not overdone. The peach blossom can be prominent at times. The base actually smells like hand-crafted paper, from the notes of oakmoss and ivy. Very different.
27th May, 2018

Angel: Le Gôut du Parfum - Sublimée de Poudre de Cacao Amer / The Taste of Fragrance - Magnified with Bitter Cocoa Powder by Thierry Mugler

Angel, amped up. A wonderful blast of chocolate that smells real to me. Some citrus and fruity sweetness. Glorious patchouli, vanilla, and a touch of caramel. Chocolate lasts throughout.
27th May, 2018

Eau de Réglisse by Caron

Not bad but, doesn't last on me. A blast of orange, basil, and lemon verbena on top gave this promise. I get no licorice whatsoever. A bit of patchouli in the middle; a bit of vanilla at the end. A good quickie for spring weather.
25th May, 2018
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Rose Sublime by Laurence Dumont

Rose dominated. Tinge of honey. Watery notes on top. Some shavings of wood here and there. More rose, on the bottom. Sillage is all rose. The other notes, are discernible closer to the skin. A good rose scent for spring and summer. Not overly heavy.
24th May, 2018

Dune by Christian Dior

From a vintage sample... Some aldehydes on top. Not too much. A touch of greenish-floral with some wood. The middle seemed dark and moody with sort of a waxy flower smell - jasmine, ylang, and rose were almost dirty; damp, like after a rain. Lovely base where I smell sandalwood, amber, a touch of patchouli, and an oakmoss-y accord. Dune is a safe fragrance; only a tiny bit daring.
22nd May, 2018

Eau d'Orange Verte by Hermès

Mine, is a vintage bottle of eau de cologne. It is a marvelous aromatic. Crisp, bright, and luscious citruses. Fun notes of mint and basil. Lavender that is just enough that it doesn't kill me. Lovely, earthy oakmoss on the bottom. This is one of those that, the more I wear it, the more I enjoy it.
20th May, 2018

Citrine by Nest

This is great, if you like watery notes, lotus, and woodsy notes. I'm not a huge lotus fan. A good spring or summer perfume. A more lemony note would have made this better. Unfortunately I got no lemon at all, from this.
18th May, 2018

Panda (original) by Zoologist Perfumes

Blissfully calming. A green I actually enjoy. Watery, in a way I can't describe. Tea notes I find genuine. Mimosa, that finally I "get"; that doesn't make me nauseated (because it is not starchy here). The flowers are ethereal as though they are dipped in dew, dried by a breeze. Musky moss finishes this, on my skin. I only wish it lasted a little longer.
18th May, 2018

À la Rose by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

A pretty rose perfume I will admit. I have others that are so much "more". I only get notes of rose, some vibe of magnolia, and a touch of musk at the base. Does not last long on my skin. Not exciting enough for me.
18th May, 2018

Norell by Norell

Vintage Norrell... A glorious, aromatic from days gone by. My formula is alive with galbanum, hyacinth, narcissus, coriander, and gardenia. The carnation isn't cranky; the jasmine isn't too dirty. There is a touch of cinnamon. The lily and rose smell old-fashioned. A smattering of cardamom, dark oakmoss, and tame vetiver round this out. I am depressed today and this makes me feel better. Reminds me of better times. Joyful times.
17th May, 2018

Another Oud by Juliette Has a Gun

Just another oud. I like ouds but, I have enough and have tried enough. I barely get a hint of fruit after inhaling so hard my eyes suck back into my head. Now all I taste, is oud. Too much ambroxan, also. Did I mention the oud?
17th May, 2018

Ambre 114 by Histoires de Parfums

Sweet, nutty in a candy way, dark, and moody. Love it! Chock full of patchouli, amber, benzoin, and vanilla.
16th May, 2018

Cabotine by Grès

Green at first, then flowery. Loads of tuberose and carnation. Slight wood and animalic vibe on the bottom. It is bright, crisp, and lovely for spring.
16th May, 2018
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Anyway by Juliette Has a Gun

Not much here. A bit of neroli on top, a tad jasmine in the middle, and light woody notes on the bottom. It did have a blast of ambroxan upon first application. That, faded rather quickly.
16th May, 2018

Bright Crystal by Versace

Aquatic floral. Lotus and peony dominate here. The base is weak with only a hint of wood. A good, quick, spritz-and-out-the-door fragrance. Summery.
14th May, 2018

GFF F by Gianfranco Ferré

A great, old oddball. This one blasted me at first with lavender, sage, and bergamot. Very strong wall of fragrance. The intensity fades away to softness. Dainty notes of violet, freesia, ylang ylang, rose, and a touch of cardamom. The base is light for me. I get some patchouli and vanilla but, not much else. At times, I think I get some honey, sandalwood, and Tonka but, they are very hard to pick out without inhaling deeply. Underrated perfume, in my opinion.
13th May, 2018

La Vaniglia by Bois 1920

The vanilla hits you immediately. I only get a hint of pepper of the top notes. Patchouli, ginger, and incense are definitely at play here, too. This is a resinous, woody, spicy vanilla. It softens with time to pure vanilla. Great longevity.
12th May, 2018

Figment Woman by Amouage

For the pepper, saffron, and gardenia notes I got a spicy sweetness. The middle became interesting with an earthy, floral, slightly metallic smell. The base is kind of starchy, with an almost minty vibe. Figment woman is decidedly different. Wearable but more artistic a perfume, in my mind.
10th May, 2018

Y by Yves Saint Laurent

I had a miniature bottle of this a long time ago. I recently obtained a vintage sample from purecaramel. I honestly don't remember this one from back then. This is mellow, in my opinion. I'm diggin' the honeysuckle, galbanum, and jasmine here. There is a very light sweetness now and then. The base is woody, earthy, and animalic. Not loud but subtle; lays close to the skin.
08th May, 2018

1000 by Jean Patou

After decades of perfume exploration I am finally experiencing 1000. It is, how I imagined it would be - beautiful. I cannot report anything bad about this. It is refined. I am wearing vintage so, I know not what the modern concoction is "made of". It is a deep floral. Almost dark. Jasmine, muguet, rose, and geranium are very well blended here. I particularly enjoy the osmanthus here. This is a "must try" for everyone.
07th May, 2018

Angélique Encens by Creed

Very interesting fragrance. Musty. Earthy. Funerary, dark floral. Somewhat sultry, in a vintage way. Sweetness drifts in and out. Call me crazy but, I get a waft of York Peppermint Patty smell now and then.

Delightful amber/vanilla presence hours later. A monster for sillage. The base reminds of Amber 114 by Histoires de Parfums. A bottle of this just sold on ebay today, for $1,025. I will admit this turned out to be a beautiful perfume and I'm glad I had a tiny sample to try it. However, I don't think it warrants That high a price...

06th May, 2018

Camel by Zoologist Perfumes

Dry, muted sweetness, dusty, resinous, warm. Not too loud. Not too tame. What stands out the most for me are dates, rose, olibanum, amber, jasmine, myrrh, incense, cedar, and a hint of cinnamon.

The base becomes a calming blend of musk, Tonka bean, and vanilla - it is all sweet on me. At times I get a hint of either oud or civet. I cannot discern.

This reminds me of Ford's Sahara Noir but, not as harsh or shrill. And, of course the sweeter side of desert heat. Fantastic!
06th May, 2018

Hummingbird by Zoologist Perfumes

This one is definitely feminine. I smell lilac, muguet, a touch of pear, rose, and a little violet leaf for the top notes. The lilac carries over into the middle where I smell honeysuckle, mimosa, and ylang ylang. Lilac is very dominate in this perfume. I love lilac so I am not disappointed. The base notes are puzzling as I don't get many of them. I smell a whipped, creamy musk which is delicious. My take on Hummingbird is that it is light, airy, and screams of spring. I love it!
05th May, 2018

Diorella by Christian Dior

Not much else positive to add that hasn't already been stated. A buddy sent me a sample of some vintage juice. I got a nice blast of bright green and slightly sweet notes on top. The middle is rich with flowers and a touch of vetiver. I could really detect carnation. The base is mild with more rose than anything else. It is definitely "70's" in its style.
04th May, 2018

Oud Ispahan by Christian Dior

A familiar, yet beloved combination for me. I always enjoy smelling and wearing Oud, rose, labdanum, sandalwood, and patchouli in any incarnation. This one in particular isn't screechy. I think it's well balanced. The base has a tad sweetness to it.

I won't purchase a FB but, I will enjoy the small decant I have.
03rd May, 2018

Grand Siècle Intense 7.1 by Parfumerie Generale

Fresh, juicy, sparkling top notes of bergamot, petitgrain, orange, mint, and vetiver. Then... it... just.................................................disappears.

No end of the middle, or base to speak of. I would have liked to enjoy some tobacco or hay but, just Nothing else appears. My husband could smell nothing more either. Oh, well!
03rd May, 2018

Dior Addict by Christian Dior

2014 version... Boozy at first. Slight greenish orange. Creamy vanilla at the end.

The vanilla had a slight burnt feel to it at first. It mellowed out nicely.

Overall, a nice fragrance. Not extraordinary but, nice.
03rd May, 2018

Vento nel Vento by Bois 1920

Ah! This is divine. One of my favorite types of perfume. This is the fourth Bois 1920 I've tried. So far, this House never disappoints.

The only notes I don't detect are peony and sandalwood. Perhaps because they are so well blended. Slight powdery feel on top. Sharp, dry incense-y accord, in the middle. A smattering of skank. Slight candy-ish smell in the middle also. The base is delightfully resinous with an almost vanilla-like accord.

The first few times I wore this it reminded me a lot of Relativamente Rosso. The more I studied and lived in it, the more I discovered the differences. True love...

02nd May, 2018

On the Wind by Bourjois

This is a great, old-fashioned floral oriental fragrance. Slight bit of aldehydes, some incense, rose, citrus notes, jasmine, gentle geranium, and a touch of vanilla.

It is slightly powdery on top. Some sweetness in the middle. Because my bottle is old, it doesn't have much for longevity. Overall, the notes that last longest are the rose, geranium, and incense. It is worth a try, if you can find a bottle.
02nd May, 2018

No Regrets by Alexandra de Markoff

The top notes are a blast of galbanum, osmanthus, and ylang. Tuberose knocks them out of the way shortly afterwards. Notes of orange blossom, lily, gardenia are there, too. Those notes seem to surround the tuberose but, Miss Tuberose always lets you know who is boss. It takes some time for the middle notes to settle down. The tolu balsam, musk, and oakmoss run the end of the show.

Dirty floral.
Slight metallic note (from somewhere).
Burnt sweetness.

That sums up No Regrets up, for me. I have no regrets blind buying this one!

P.S. FWIW, the label on my bottle reads No Regrets In Life, First Edition...
02nd May, 2018