Perfume Reviews

Reviews by HouseOfPhlegethon

Total Reviews: 762

Mississippi Medicine by D.S. & Durga

Top notes are a fresh breeze. Red cedar and white spruce are center stage. Violet isn't stomped on by the wood - I can detect it well. The top notes here are just plain Good!

The middle is just as good. Great, in fact. Pine, cypress breeze. Earthy, cool. I'm at a loss for words for this one. This is the "pine-y" scent I have been searching for. It's outdoorsy. One of the better masculine scents I've sampled in awhile.

The base isn't mean, angry, or nasty. The birch tar, incense, and cade are polite. A good core base. M.M. works on me, works, for my psyche. Comforting.

15th January, 2019

Doe in the Snow by 4160 Tuesdays

Cool, crisp fruit on the top actually reminds me sun shining after a nice, deep snowfall; Diamond sparkles reflecting off the powdery top coating of snow. I tried this perfume last year - I didn't appreciate as much as I do now. I love it this time around. I believe all the sampling I've done in the last year as made me more aware of notes, character, and nuances.

I get a damp note, an even colder vibe as this progresses. The rose and jasmine are as one. They are flowery but, restrained. I really don't notice any woods here. I am reminded of a perfume I once tried by Regimes de Fleurs called Dove Grey.

Much later I get a gentle base. A bit mossy with a smidge of tea. A faint note of something resinous. Doe In The Snow goes on my wish list. It's very evocative.
15th January, 2019

La Danza delle Libellule by Nobile 1942

Sweet delights! Bergamot and crisp, autumn apple right from the start. Tart accord moves in, from the bergamot. Cinnamon and vanilla notes follow. These notes begin to resemble a white flower, to me. The cedar rising, may be the culprit, the mystery, creating this floral accord. The apple and vanilla remain strong. A hint of coconut gives this an almost Yankee Candle vibe. Cedar & bergamot remain, close to the skin. This is just a happy fragrance. Nothing notably bad I can say about it.
15th January, 2019
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Tihota by Indult

This, is a mighty fine vanilla perfume. It's piercing without being annoyingly artificial as some vanilla fragrances can be. Musk, keeps it in check, keeps it interesting.
15th January, 2019

Banana Flambée by Demeter Fragrance Library

Cooked bananas. Lots of boozy, buttery goodness. Not overly sweet to me. Dark rum and dark brown sugar. Perhaps a little over-cooked. A definite caramelized thing going on here. There is a bit of nuttiness, too. After awhile it reminds me of starch - banana bread perhaps. A slight amber accord much later.

I could wear this all year long. I don't think it fits any particular season. I would not wear this to work. It might make coworker's stomachs growl.
14th January, 2019

Momenti : Una Tira l'Altra by Hilde Soliani Profumi

Cherry coke. Big juicy cherries. I smell Tonka. I smell an almond-like note that isn't bitter at all. Some buzzy vanilla, also. This is one of the better cherry perfumes I've tried. Not too fruity-gourmand. I swear I smell either sandalwood or a woody-amber note.

Cherry-almond-heliotrope seem to be what my brain interprets as I wear this. There is something more here that I can't put my finger on. Mystery note. Boozy. Yes, there is booziness... The fizziness, liquor smell calms later, as the cherry remains.
14th January, 2019

Vaniglia del Madagascar by Farmacia SS. Annunziata

Sugared lemon & vanilla straight away. Light flowers. A heliotrope vibe. Iris or violet - hard to tell which. Happy little blooms. Light-colored amber note. Exotic, stronger vanilla. Very simple, easy-going scent. I wouldn't really call this a gourmand - just vanilla-centric.
14th January, 2019

Flambeau by Fabergé

I got my hands on a bottle of this for cheap.

Torchy indeed! Big notes on top are lily of the valley, rose, jasmine, narcissus, orris, and a walloping amount of spice. For an old bottle this stuff is just fine. The top and middle notes are married well. I suppose this chypre floral could be labeled an "old lady" perfume, as it was released in the 50's.

This scent is bright red lips, black leather pumps, black sheep's wool coat with a leopard-print collar, and most definitely short, black gloves with a thick, black top-handled bag. It's a romantic-comedy from the early 1960's.

Flambeau is actually a Faberge I had never heard of or seen before. I had no expectations. No one note really stands out prominently. The base becomes more sultry as I detect vetiver and oakmoss. There is a blend of subtle amber, sandalwood, and a touch of non-sickly sweet vanilla settling in much later.
14th January, 2019

Luctor et Emergo by People of the Labyrinths

Sweet grass. Fresh mown hay. Vanilla wax candle. Almond milk. Cherry note dances and bounces around all over the place. The cherry isn't super sweet nor is it sour. There are wood notes that seem to keep it in check. Woody notes are not aggressive. They are like oak or maple or at least something other than cedar.

Later the cherry and almond fuse. I want to state that they smell to me like marzipan but, not quite. Someone mentioned Play-Doh. I don't recall how that smells - it's been too long. Anyhow, the latter accord seems fuzzy or blurred, rather meditative, too. Full bottle worthy, for me.
12th January, 2019

Prada Olfactories : Pink Flamingos by Prada

Big rose right away. I smell bergamot, too. I get a hint of plastic. The iris is strong, almost sharp. I get a little cherry fruit smell. And, a hint of violet.

Rose? Rose is the star here! She is bold. Not sweet at all. PF tames into a powdery scent much later. 3 stars.
12th January, 2019

Sunshine & Pancakes by 4160 Tuesdays

I purchased a decant of this as a blind buy. I'm glad I did.

Refreshing citrus & sandalwood. A rosy, wood smell. Fresh, blooming jasmine. This perfume is much brighter on top than I expected. The lemon really pops. It is an almost citrus soda accord. It becomes tart for me, tangy even. The jasmine becomes "tart" as well.

Honey and musk creep in later. Neither are sickly sweet. They are together, a more natural-smelling blend. I detect no vanilla at all in the middle. S&P sparkles even more later, with benzoin making itself known.

There it is now, the vanilla in the base, which is spicy, as it smells close to the skin. This perfume just gets better as time passes. Lovely and intriguing and long-lasting. Honey note stays the longest. It does smell like pancakes long after the top and heart notes fade.
12th January, 2019

Vinyle by Yves Saint Laurent

Such rosy, pink pepper! Bergamot, immortelle, and myrrh. What's not to love? Everything on top and in the middle, reminds me of cognac. If this perfume was to be the idea of vinyl, then it is well done. It has a molasses sweetness with a wood-smoke note layered over and under. The resins & vanilla in the base are comforting, warm, very rich. A well done perfume from a designer house. 4.5 stars.
12th January, 2019

Vanille Banane by Comptoir Sud Pacifique

Yes, I agree about the reminder of runts candies mentioned below. The top is a delicious orange & banana blend at first. Whipped cream note follows.

In the heart, so to speak, the hi-fructose accord backs off some. Turns more vanillic. No green notes do I smell. The base continues with vanilla and a slight rum smell. Overall, a good vanilla for warmer months. I wish the banana lasted longer.
11th January, 2019
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Leopard by Sarah Baker Perfumes

Big notes of incense. Cracked pepper. Darkish cardamom. Deep patchouli. Labdanum and castoreum too, are here at the beginning. Leopard is rich and heavy. There is a pop of dark rose.

I love the galbanum here. It mingles well with the other notes. It combines with sandalwood and vetiver. Leopard reminds me of the 80's or early 90's offerings of that time period. A powerhouse, one could say. It's loud and kind of skanky. It's mid-town call-girl meets Madonna. The cetalox just wows me here!

Leopard slowly mellows with notes of beeswax, cashmeran, and a gentle 70's style musk flavor. It becomes soft, almost creamy, furry. Deeply inhaled, there is still some skank. I always enjoy a good skank and I haven't sampled enough of them lately.

Much later the notes all seem to mesh, marry, and meld to the skin. Rose and patchouli are the ones that stand out and yet, the skankyness remains. A good example of an oldie-newbie, oxymoron fragrance.
11th January, 2019

Prakt by Svensk Parfym

Greenish, black current. Fresh, delightful, almost autumnal fruit. No sweetness. Crisp. Well combined berries, apple, and rhubarb. Slight spice to the apple wood.

There is an outdoorsy aspect to Prakt. A rain event. Watery but, not aquatic. It's more like lake water. A lake with a calm shoreline. I enjoy this one. It's different without being weird. It remains "light green", fruit is pale later, wateriness subsides.
11th January, 2019

Vanille Coco by Comptoir Sud Pacifique

Milkshake accord. A slight chocolate note. Nuttiness. Definite coconut. Suntan oil / lotion accord. Something, a smell here, I can't name. It's almost a smoky note. Coconut shells smoldering over an open fire. Yes, I know, that seems stupid but, it's what I smell. It may be heliotropin taking on an almond or hay smell, that's vexing my nose. Vanilla seems to hover in its own layer.

I enjoy how VC starts; the middle is fine; the base to me is reminiscent of chocolate milk. Coconut, vanilla-laden, chocolate milk. I'll revisit this a few more times as this intrigues me...
11th January, 2019

En by Svensk Parfym

Winter in a bottle. Fresh cut pinewood. Macerated berries of juniper. Slats of juniper wood. Breezy, cool scent. A bit of spicy black pepper mixed with tobacco. It's a mild tobacco, like, just the leaves. It's almost as if they are still damp, drying and hanging in the shed. There is saltiness here, too. Damp, earthy moss accord. Everything fades to a faint, almost woody cigar leaf note. Faint sweetness. Juniper remains. Unisex.
09th January, 2019

Mugler Cologne Love You All by Thierry Mugler

Grapefruit. Big and juicy. I smell a lot of it. Then an apple-like essence. Eglantine perhaps? I get a sweet, candy-like wood underneath. Overall it is fresh and clean and summery. 2.75 stars.
09th January, 2019

M.O.U.S.S.E by Oliver & Co.

Buzz. Buzz. Buzz. Funky buzz. I like it. Weird, soily, rotted. Vaguely reminds me of one of the Krylon fixative sprays I use for art, only not as "sweet". Old wood. Squashed spice. Dried-up lavender. Unisex hairspray odor. It's got green undertones, a mossy-ness. Something here I can't pinpoint, that I dig. 3 1/2 stars.
09th January, 2019

Moon Dance by Juliette Has a Gun

Odd, almost medicinal opening with its bergamot and violet. Quickly sweetens. It becomes velvety with its heart notes. Nothing loud here. Light, summery flowers. Musky base that reads ordinary. Too pricey, for what it is. Barely three stars.
08th January, 2019

Les Absolus d'Annick Goutal : 1001 Ouds by Annick Goutal

Fresh ground black pepper and papery papyrus to start. Black myrrh, with an incense vibe. Smooth but light "oud". Black-colored rose. Buzzy woods.

As it settles there is a hint of sweetness, like amber. The woodiness settles, lies beneath the surface. It is gentle. The sweetness increases - it's myrrh and rose, I'm guessing, that creates this accord of sweet. Still, the wood lies beneath hours later. A great wintery, unisex fragrance. One of the nicer Goutals I've tried. It's not complicated. It is easy to wear. But no, not a true "oud" perfume by any means.
08th January, 2019

Earth Mother by Dame Perfumery

Odd top notes. Sour & sweet. Dirty jasmine in the heart. Moderate galbanum note. It's an outdoorsy scent so far. It's like a bag of herbs a medicine man might wear around his neck. The lemon appears in the heart - not in the top note array. Lily of the valley takes over, stomping over the galbanum, making a slightly brighter floral in the middle.

Sandalwood stands out in the base. Patchouli lumbers in later. EM remains outdoorsy, earthy, and herbal throughout. Three stars.
08th January, 2019

Hypnotic Poison Eau de Toilette by Christian Dior

Sweet almond; almost cherry-like accord. Slight cookie spice. Booze-like. Sweet jasmine note. Sweet woody note. Spicy vanilla musk. Girly-girl.

The almond with its marzipan-like accord, lasts for quite some time. That, is a lovely aspect. A definite gourmand perfume, in my mind. Not what I expected. I prefer the original Poison.
07th January, 2019

Encens Flamboyant by Annick Goutal

Mild incense. Sweetened pepper. Cardamom seems as if its close to the skin. Light sage, nutmeg, and fir. These are first impressions, discoveries. Later, it's all incense and fir mixed. Not an overly aggressive scent, which is what I was hoping for here. I expected a bit more fir and a stronger incense smell. I'll give it 3 stars.
07th January, 2019

Égoïste / L'Égoïste by Chanel

Sharp, tangy top notes. Very tart tangerine. A very interesting heart with its spicy rose. Not too masculine, that I would think this was unisex. The rose here, is divine. Kind of dark - not sweetened at all. The base is well-balanced; just the perfect mix of sandalwood, vanilla, and ambrette, and the rose is still hovering about. Later, the rose fades, leaving a base that seems now, more masculine. A great Chanel!
07th January, 2019

Doped Tuberose by Dr. Gritti

It's got that 70's / 80's vibe right from the start. Lavender spiked with citrus that doesn't smell fruity. It is more like champagne-aldehydes. The tuberose & jasmine blend is quite different here. It's greener, starchy, almost reminds me of geranium flowers. This is no ordinary floral heart. It's decidedly unisex.

The flowers become smothered. Incense seems to drown whatever sweetness there could have been within the floral heart. It's earthy, stemmy.

The starchiness ramps up, deepening, in the base. After time, it does subside as the patchouli, benzoin, and cedar kick in. If it weren't for the starch crap accosting me, I would have enjoyed this more.
04th January, 2019

Bittersweet No. 83 by Tokyo Milk

Starchy chocolate dessert. Smells like cake batter for sure. I smell a touch of vanilla and a touch of honey. Buttery, too. Fatty animal musk. I can't "find" any osmanthus here. Great gourmand nonetheless.
04th January, 2019

Le Vestiaire des Parfums : Trench by Yves Saint Laurent

Sweet & sour citrus. Fresh fig. Citrusy Neroli; it's just right, not too strong. The fig lingers into the heart. The iris is light, kind of overpowered by the fig and Neroli, unfortunately. Strong nutty, amber-ish wood base.
04th January, 2019

Noa Noa by Otto Kern

Overall this one is a well-blended, grand old school, chypre floral with a woody aromatic sideshow within. A multiple personality creation with a kitchen-sink list of notes that smacks of excellence.

The top notes are muddled and squeezed into a potion of minted orange, sweetened galbanum, a trickery of citrus. There is the barest of lipstick accord that seems to almost not want to be recognized.

The heart reveals a similar ghost of a face powder accord. No note here truly wants to be singled out. Noa Noa is a melodic choir of voices. Flowers and resins and wood sing for a higher purpose. They enchant. The only voices that pause for a solo are heliotrope and rose, as in a rendition of Canzonetta sull' aria. One must stop to take notice, this brief appearance.

The base retains a smooth, lighter sweetness with its notes. One can notice Tonka, benzoin, and vanilla as the culprit for that sweet. Light also, are its musk and oakmoss. There is no doubt NN is a woman's perfume. It's an exceptional creation from the 90's.
04th January, 2019

Tubéreuse 2 La Virginale by Histoires de Parfums

Slight fruit mixed with tuberose to start. Followed closely by a big jasmine note. There is a kind of rummy, tropical thing going on in the heart. It's like the tropics on an overcast, rainy day. And then, tuberose takes over in a large way again. A bit more earthy or greenish maybe.

This becomes more fragrant, sweeter, as it goes along. It's the patchouli, vanilla, and musk that seem to add an almost incense feel. Tropical meets far eastern countryside. The wood notes are subdued. The final phase of tuberose here seems buzzy or gritty. Sweet vanilla & tuberose stay long - stay for hours. A remarkable display of tuberose, this one.
04th January, 2019