Perfume Reviews

Reviews by HouseOfPhlegethon

Total Reviews: 525

Kenzo Amour Make Me Fly by Kenzo

Plum and orange are fruity in a non-sickeningly sweet way. Cherry blossom appears soon after the top notes. Jasmine, close behind. Both flowers temper the fruitiness - tame it. I don't smell any magnolia. It is either well-blended or hard for me to pick out. Woody cedar and musky base. Not overly creative but, wearable. Not overly long-lasting, either.
23rd September, 2018

L'Ange Noir by Givenchy

Gorgeous almond and pink pepper opening. Very powdery - Face powdery powder. Flows into iris. Slightly earthy vibe comes along. The base is a bit darker with amber and Tonka bean. An almost cookie, biscotti smell. A dark, night angel, it is not.
23rd September, 2018

Reem Acra by Reem Acra

This one seems as though it was thrown together in a hurry. The top notes all merge together with the middle notes. One can pick out the individual notes if one tries. It's a kind of murky scent. Burnt sugar accord. The base doesn't wait to appear either. Amber, musk, and patchouli thrown together. Overall this is a dark and dreary perfume. Overdone. Eventually the whole thing mellows out. Reem Acra is like a strong thunderstorm that pushes its way through a valley. Eventually it dissipates - may even reveal a rainbow somewhere. Makes a better impression on the skin hours later.
23rd September, 2018
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Gold Rose Oudh by Tiziana Terenzi

Oudh, right off the bat. It overpowers this, for me. Patchouli, then an earthy, dirt undertone moves in. The rose is smothered for a time, then it shines. I get lots of pepper. The rose is kind of "dark" here. The base reveals a bit of sweetness with amber and woody sandalwood. Gold Rose Oudh reminds me of quite a few other perfumes I've either sampled or I currently own.
23rd September, 2018

Écusson by Long Lost Perfume

I have a vintage bottle by Jean D'albret. The aldehydes on top are "dark". The citrus note(s) are long gone. Slight bit of cassis and iris are present, if I inhale deeply. In the heart (which reveals itself rather quickly) I get carnation, dirty jasmine, rose, and mild geranium. Ylang Ylang shows up later. The base smolders with vetiver, sandalwood, oakmoss, and vanilla. The jasmine lingers until the end.

I owned a bottle of this in the late 80's. It pretty much smells as I remember it. This is a colder weather perfume with a vibe reminiscent of others released in the 70's and 80's [or before]. Old style, ladylike, timeless.
23rd September, 2018

No. 5 Eau de Toilette by Chanel

The aldehydes here are sickening. They are starchy, sweet, "not right", for me and my love of aldehydes. The thing is, if I only use one or two sprays I like this - any more than that, I get physically ill.

I smell no ylang or neroli on top. I get some jasmine and muguet in the middle. They are there but muddled, suffocated. I get no rose at all. A touch of iris later on. Has a light base in which I smell vanilla, sandalwood, and amber which sweetens this whole mess up for me to enjoy it more.

I say stay with pure perfume or the edp. Avoid the edt.
23rd September, 2018

Vent Vert (new) by Pierre Balmain

I never smelled this before so, I don't know how much it has changed. I have the bottle with the "golf ball" cap.

I enjoy this. I'm not a huge fan of greenish-florals, either. At first I get basil, lime, green notes, some fruit - all settling down together. Copious amounts of freesia kick in. A flower I am not always keen on. Here, it's friendly. Then notes of hyacinth and jasmine take over. Lily of the valley and rose then add to the bouquet. Finally, a gentle base of amber, oakmoss, musk, and sandalwood. Lively fragrance with some summery refreshment.
23rd September, 2018

L'Air du Temps by Nina Ricci

I love this, for nostalgic reasons. I also happen to think this is very beautiful, in an old-fashioned way. Crisp, champagne-like opening. Notes of bergamot, peach, neroli, and carnation. The latter not too bitter. The middle is well-mixed. So much so, it is hard for me to pick out more individual notes. Jasmine, rose, and clove stand out the most. The base is blended well, too.

L'air du Temps is one of those classic perfumes that may be out of style but, will always have a place on my bedroom "dresser". It is a reminder of my youth - simpler, happier times.
23rd September, 2018

M.O.U.S.S.E II by Oliver & Co.

The more I wear this, the more I enjoy it. Cool. Medicinal in an expensive, facial astringent way. Woody and spiced. Greenish lavender. Breezy aldehydes. A tad sweet. Slight aquatic note on the tail end.
23rd September, 2018

Musc by Réminiscence

Somewhat gourmand in style with well-mixed ylang ylang, almond, Tonka bean, and amber. floral and powdery. Dry. Light. Mellow musk base. Doesn't last very long.
23rd September, 2018

No. 5 by Chanel

The aldehydes are "crisp". Faint, but there, notes of citrus and neroli. Thankfully, the heart notes come quick enough. For some reason I don't care for the aldehydes in this. I used to. I used to love this perfume. However, I haven't worn this in over 21 years. I am thinking it must have changed.

I smell the jasmine, rose, ylang ylang, and lily of the valley in the heart. Later, a peak of iris that adds a powdery-ness. This redeems No. 5 for me, as I was beginning to feel very disappointed. The base reveals some amber, patchouli, musk, civet, and vanilla. Civet isn't too strong here, to my nose.

The eau de parfum version IS much better than the EDT. I'll finish my decant of the edp. A full bottle will not be on my radar. I had loved this at one time - perhaps it was because my father would always give me a bottle for special occasions and I associate No. 5 with those lovely memories.
23rd September, 2018

Rose Silk by Unknown

Very minimal floral fragrance. Wears close to the skin. Equal parts magnolia and rose. Delicate.
21st September, 2018

Lampblack by Bruno Fazzolari

Ominous orange and grapefruit. Warm and cool at the same time, this scent is - which of course, makes no sense. Perhaps the pepper has something to do with it. Lampblack turns earthy, like the smell of the coal region here in Pennsylvania, after some serious rainfall. The cypriol may be adding to this vibe. This is a pretty interesting fragrance as it develops.

It is definitely more masculine than femme. I'd wear it if I had more of it. I digress.

Benzoin and vetiver add some charm later on. The sum of its parts remind me of something overly industrial. A 55 gallon drum full of discarded amounts of petrol, creosote, carburetor cleaner, rubber cement, and heating oil. I dig it.
20th September, 2018
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Angel Etoile des Rêves by Thierry Mugler

Praline, vanilla, patchouli, and musk, equal an amber-ish, smoky sweet aroma like a dessert liqueur. I think this is sweeter than original Angel. If there is bergamot in here I sure can't tell - must be mixed or hiding somewhere. Lots of patchouli as it dries down. I enjoy the original angel more.
20th September, 2018

J'ai Osé by J'ai Osé

Slightly smoky-spicy sweet beginning with peach, coriander, and bergamot. Slightly dirty jasmine. Other middle notes are all well-blended together. The vetiver is bright, pops. Sandalwood is prominent. Dark mossy base with earthy tones. Olibanum? Present! Overall, this is very old school. Not overly sweet at all. This also exposes a touch of amber and musk in the base, hours later. Smooth finish.
20th September, 2018

Billionaire Boyfriend by Boyfriend

Chock full of jasmine and orchid. Thick, like cake frosting. Creamy. Good amount of gardenia. Amber on the bottom. Nothing overly special here, for me. It's a "nice" perfume.
20th September, 2018

Ormonde Woman by Ormonde Jayne

Sweet, feminine top notes - not fruity sweet, mind you. Cardamom, touch of coriander, sweet grass, fresh hemlock, gentle violet, and jasmine. The base reveals some amber and a touch of sandalwood. Unfortunately, this fades way too quickly, for me.
20th September, 2018

Chinchilla by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

Very animalic. Slight "barnyard" scent. Strong carnation. Some beeswax, honey, and slight gardenia emerge. Hint of cinnamon. It's all about the "animals" here: hyrax, castoreum, civet, and musk notes. Tames down with time. Lovely perfume for special occasions or events where you want to be noticed, for your animal magnetism. Wink, wink. I couldn't wear this every day - that is for certain.
20th September, 2018

Bass Solo by The Vagabond Prince

A dreamy opening with ginger, lime, and cardamom. A touch of saffron. Well-blended lavender and cedar. Milky fig - just a touch. Later, comes birch tar, sandalwood, and amber. Even later, a smoky blend of musk, opoponax, and patchouli. Overall this is masculine for sure but, could be worn by women who enjoy smoldering-styled scents.
20th September, 2018

Evelyn Rose by Crabtree & Evelyn

I wanted to love this, as rose perfumes, are one of my favorite styles. Not this one - it reminds me too much of The Perfumer's Workshop Tea Rose - which I never liked that much. Evelyn Rose is just too sharp, too bitter for my taste. The rose, peony, peach, and green notes are too much. Too deafening. Eventually I smell amber on the base but, the other notes are still strong.
20th September, 2018

America One 31 by Krigler

This is pleasant enough with its orange, pepper, neroli, cedar, and vetiver. I don't really smell any cumin per se but I do think this is a bit spicy. It's green and fresh. The notes seem to bounce to and fro revealing themselves at different times. This reminds me of an old-fashioned, men's after shave lotion. I love the vetiver in this. Nice fragrance.
20th September, 2018

Aqua Allegoria Anisia Bella by Guerlain

Ultra light fragrance on my skin. Light orange. Very light licorice smell. Light everything, really. The basil and tea notes are noticeable at least. This is basically a summery fresh perfume. Nothing jumps out for me. Gentle wood base.
20th September, 2018

Fleurs d'Ombre Violette-Menthe by Jean-Charles Brosseau

Melon, mint, and bergamot on top. It's almost a musty mix. A dusty violet appears in the middle. It marries itself with other flower notes. Peony seems to hover over the other flowers here. This perfume smells very old-fashioned like something from the distant past. Almost Edwardian or Victorian. It's demure. There is a rose here. It is bitter like the roses I knew growing up on a farm; some sort of wild rose odor. There is a touch of woodiness and musk on the base.
20th September, 2018

F by Ferragamo by Salvatore Ferragamo

Sweet orange blossom on top. Big jasmine bouquet that becomes sweeter in the middle. The rose however, is smothered by all the sweetness. I find it uplifting overall. It smells cheap - I kind of really love that about it. It's kitsch in a bottle.
12th September, 2018 (last edited: 18th September, 2018)

New York Intense by Nicolaï

Fresh, bright citrus opening. A smidge of petitgrain and thyme leaves. Lavender creeps in slowly. I smell red pepper. It's too funky for me. It is actually stronger than the black pepper note. Has a sweet patchouli, cedar, and vanilla base. A touch of leather, too. I love the base of this one.

Overall, I can't pull off wearing this masculine, like some others I've tried. Though I would probably like this on a man.
12th September, 2018

Mugler Cologne Come Together by Thierry Mugler

Meh. A soapy mix of bergamot, neroli, petitgrain, and a hint of orange flower. Summery. Not too heavy. Not too impressive.
12th September, 2018

Beyond Love by By Kilian

Coconut & jasmine suntan lotion beginning. Add some big ol' tuberose. The tuberose is quite lovely but, then I am biased as I love the stuff. [that wasn't always so.] I get a little green in here, too. A bright something or other. The tubey mellows out in a way I can't describe. This has a smooth ambery-musk base. Overall this is very good "use" of tuberose and I was rather surprised.
12th September, 2018

Aqua Allegoria Bergamote Calabria by Guerlain

Juicy bergamot, bright petitgrain, and green leaves that are kind of sweet. Add some ginger. Touch of cardamom. Sweet vanilla & musk base. Work safe frag.
12th September, 2018

La Colonia by Oliver & Co.

A mix of sandalwood & greenish cedar. Add some bright, freshly chopped dill. Vague green pepper which becomes stronger (add bacon, some squash, and you've got a nice little meal started). I then get a squeeze of bergamot sprinkled over lily of the valley. The jasmine smells brown, as thought it is beginning to rot. I smell ozone later. It remind me of window cleaner.

It is creative but, I cannot wear this one.
12th September, 2018

Bull's Blood by Imaginary Authors

Big slap in the face with patchouli and rose, at first. The top, of the middle has a slight burnt tire smell that turns into a sweaty, human body accord. Then, an iron-y, metallic vibe - maybe from the costus root? This, dispels slowly, mellowing out. The base is musky but, I swear I smell an iris or violet note as this dries down into something kind of powdery. The sweetness of patchouli returns. Long-lasting on my skin.

I enjoy this one. It is creepy and sexy at the same time.
12th September, 2018