Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Sheik Yerbouti

Total Reviews: 4

Incident Diplomatique by Jovoy

I received a sample of this from a generous BNer last year and loved it from the first spray so after using every drop of my sample I had to buy a bottle and did so from the wonderful Jovoy in Mayfair.

I could imagine this fragrance is hard to appreciate for the uninitiated especially if normally used to fragrances with some sweetness. There is hardly any here...but be patient. It opens dry and you will quickly reach for a glass of water to rehydrate. The quality is not in question at any point of the development and this is actually the best combination of vetiver and patchouli I have come across to date. It has plenty of depth and breadth. The blend creates a wonderfully dusty ghost note and texture of cacao and there is a hint of orange citrus but blended in as part of the whole with no separation. This fragrance is really all about the Javanese and Haitian vetivers, all spicy and dark with a smidge of earthiness and the patchouli in a supporting but essential role. Very masculine although sold as unisex.

The fragrance feels serious and probably why the name Incident Diplomatique was chosen. Could imagine most wearers would use this in a formal or business setting but I happily wear this any which way I can and all year round.
Once into the drydown there is more of a woodsy amber quality with the sandalwood joining the party and bringing in some welcomed sweetness to lighten the mood. It also brings out more of the rich and opulent facets of this beautifully composed Eau de Parfum.

To subdue some of the initial dryness I usually spray under clothing to allow the oils to heat quicker and blend with my skin oils. 3 to 5 sprays is plenty for any situation with the oily consistency helping.

Having tried the entirety of Jovoy’s current lineup this is my unrivalled favourite easily edging out Private Label and Psychedelique.

Longevity is ample at over 12 hours on my skin with projection falling into that perfect aura goldilocks zone. I highly recommend this especially to lovers of all things vetiver.

A solid 10/10.

10th September, 2019

Rien Intense Incense by Etat Libre d'Orange

Whatever notes are in this are entirely and utterly smooshed by an enormous note of turpentine.

All it’s good for is cleaning paint brushes.

26th March, 2019

Mousse Illuminee by Rogue Perfumery

A few weeks back I was in search of a good solid classic fragrance with oodles of oakmoss in the style of those great Fougères and Chypres of the 80s but with a scent emphasis specifically on moss. Most of all I wanted something that had continued to develop creatively from the 80s down an imagined path of an unregulated fragrance industry and so would feel like a full-fat classic with a modern twist.

All Rogue Perfumery fragrance releases to date are Non-IFRA compliant so are as full-fat as you can get. Mousse Illuminee was all about a sweet resinous moss (in this instance treemoss). It was exactly what I had been searching for, so much so I was speechless for a good twelve minutes whilst I was in heaven and my mind was trying to deconstruct this magical scent.

How would I describe it? Imagine going for a walk on a clear night, through a green damp forest but with a silvery luminosity provided by a full moon overhead. That combined with the earthy scent of fallen logs and the foliage underfoot. Sweet, spicy and slightly floral with a herbal and resinous undertone I just couldn’t get enough of it. Rich frankincense and something akin to bay added to the already ethereal aroma to join this mystical moss.

Two sprays will last the day, project plenty and easily fill a room.

Rarely does something click so completely and I was so completely bowled over by it I bought Mousse Illuminee immediately after smelling it for the first time from a sample....I should have bought more. This is not only full bottle worthy but could effortlessly become someones signature scent. Absolutely stunning.
Bravo Rogue Perfumery, Bravo Manuel.
27th November, 2018
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Chic for Men by Carolina Herrera

I will start by saying I wore this fragrance continually from about 2006 until 2014. It has had at least 2 reformulations in that time, but I will not give this a bashing as this is an unfortunate reality of the industry and rarely have reformulations improved the scent or longevity. However there is a distinction in the original to the most recent formulation.

The original was a true masterpiece that could be compared to the original Dior Homme, Polo (Green) by Ralph Lauren or Dior Fahrenheit but without the stature afforded by the marketing campaigns of the largest designer houses.

It was a gorgeous warm oriental spicy slightly aquatic scent that opened with a fantastic short lived watermelon, bergamot and harsh pepper that quickly settled to a heart dominated by cardamom, musk and amber and dried down to an amazingly gorgeous tonka, musk, amber combo that I have yet to see rivalled by any fragrance since.

While there are certainly more complex frags than this, the scent was truly marvellous and enjoyed by men and women alike wherever it was worn - a serious favourite that was frequently complimented and adored.

Unfortunately as I mention above the fragrance underwent 2 separate reformulations which took the scent from a masterpiece of its day, which would easily rival the best formulation of YSLs La Nuit, to a weak diluted cousin that had its top notes eliminated almost entirely and its heart and base weakened not only in potency but sophistication.

If you are able to find an original bottle of this or even 1st reformulation (still with clear atomiser tube) grab it and enjoy. It would project at arms length for at least 4 hours and sillage was superb for at least 6. I would get 10 hours longevity from this and still get whiffs from outerwear for days afterward. The last incarnation of this with the black atomiser tube will leave you disappointed and wondering what the fuss was about and likely to have you leaving a negative reviews.

The masterpiece version was so versatile there was no time or place you wouldn't wear it except the most formal of occasions.

Chic for Men you are sorely missed. Carolina Herrera's best by a proverbial mile.
21st July, 2017