Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Constantine

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Total Reviews: 213

Lagerfeld Classic by Lagerfeld

This is a dinosaur albeit a benign and benevolent one. A nice example of old fashioned barbour shop spice, bergamot, nutmeg and aldehydes. However except for those in whom it awakens pleasant memories this really has no place today unless its supporting a period cast of The Professionals or The Sweeny or even Minder.
Ok I have upgraded from a thumbs down to neutral out of respect for history! After all history repeats itself.
22nd January, 2020

Sicilian Wood by Tom Daxon

This is a much better version of the already very nice Hermes tres fraiche. I don't like citrus but this manifests itself not as overt citrus but as freshness tinged with citrus , a touch of rind and cedar beefing it up and then delivers itself with perfect zero gravity ie effortlessly through your olfactory passages to your sense organs of pleasure so its an experience of enlightenment rather than one of ingredients.
But.
After two hours its gone, in fact majorly on the way out after 1 hour. My favourite aftershave Fine Accoutrements Fine Fresh Vetiver lasts half as long at a fraction of the price. Same problem with Hermes.
And therefore not FBW.
Shame.

Fragrance: 8/10 its stunning.
Projection: 7/10
Longevity: 5.5/10
22nd January, 2020

Ore by Slumberhouse

What a disappointment after reading all the glowing reviews. This smells like cheap chocolate drink powder. Milk chocolate at that. It's not a particularly pleasant smell either.
I think people would find Dan Gilbert's Ted talk on the Surprising Science of Happiness interesting. In short : Once you make a choice and you minimise further options you get to like your choice more. Maybe this is so expensive that once people buy it they can't afford anything else. That can be the only explanation. In fact I am liking it more already!

Fragrance: 4.5/10
Projection: 8/10
Lonvevity: 9/10
13th January, 2020
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Bonheur by Bortnikoff

This is a very expensive way to smell of Cardamon sugar and vetiver.
Smelling it through my shirt, It reminds me of some really delicious cookies that my grandmother used to make.
It is a lovely smell?
Yes.
Do I want to smell like this?
No.
Could a lady pull this off?
Maybe.
11th January, 2020

Archetipo by Mendittorosa

Very nice. The best freshy I have tried.
Minty aquatic, fir, touch of incense and a hint of pepper the latter two gaining slightly in strength in dry down.
Fresh with some depth and bite.
Spectacular.
Full bottle worthy and those of you who see my reviews know I do not say this lightly.

Fragrance: 8.5/10
Projection: 7.5/10
Longevity: 7.5/10
08th January, 2020

Silver Musk by Nasomatto

I agree with some of the reviewers here.
Spray this on and you will smell like freshly laundered hotel sheets and as such you will smell oddly fresh, inexpensive, with a very common scent. I am sure some linen style air fresheners come close. There is a tiny bite of musk if you listen carefully. It does last however.
Why would you want to pay £40 per 10ml to smell like this ?
Not me.

Fragrance: 6/10
Projection: 7/10
Longevity: 8/10
05th January, 2020

Terroni by Orto Parisi

This is apparently the biggest seller for Orto Parisi in Harrods.
So its a crowd pleaser. The manager eulogised over the dry down. A creamy Sandalwood. So I gave my arm 3 good sprays and sauntered off to the Stephane Humbert Counter - in short I found nothing of interest there with the exception of Black Gemstone which they had run out of suggesting that is their own crowd pleaser . Back to Orti Parisi:
It opens smoky spicy and almost sweet and a touch of incense. In fact not bad at all. Very versatile. Day time, night time, cold weather, and a tiny spray for warm weather. Was this truly going to be a purchase?
Unfortunately there as a dry down. The smoke and incense left and all you were left with was a bland creamy sandalwood.
I think this is what is called a phantom fragrance: Its all in the opening so that punters at the perfume counter will spray it , sniff it, want it and buy it only to take it home and found out they have been conned.
I would not have minded creamy sandalwood with depth, maybe some spice and lurking whisps of smoke to prevent you feeling that you are looking into an empty box where once was your fragrance. But then it would not be a phantom fragrance.

Fragrance: 7.75 in the opening for about 30 minutes. Then 5.5/10 for 2 hours.
Projection: 7.5/10
Longevity: 7/10

PS: Judging from another reviewer who commented that this is potent juice it looks like Orto Parisi has been subjected to the disgraceful watering down most of the Nasomatto range has been destroyed by. Nasomatto Pardon was a rare masterpiece. Now it is a thin crumbling mask. I am too upset for further metaphor.
05th January, 2020

Taklamakan by Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777

Well well. I never thought that I would smell anything more potent than Nasomatto's Absinth but here we are at Harrod's Stephane Humbert counter today. Three good sprays on the arm.
This is a beast of spicy oud resin amber and something a bit off putting, reminding me of an unpleasant smelling and intimate bodily part although after a couple of hours this largely settled. I really cannot imagine any possible scenario where this would be servicable. It made Nasomatto's Absinth look mild and meek in comparison but in reality it left me appreciating Nasomatto's smoothness refinement warmth and depth even more.
I think at this price there must be an Emperor's New Clothes effect with Cognoscenti delving into their imaginations and wishful thinking . So far I have smelt 3 of S H's creations and none really smell especially pleasant. The least offensive and even mildly interesting being Mortal Skin.
This gets a neutral because of the dry down otherwise it would be a hopeless thumbs down and off with its head.

Fragrance: 6.75 --in the drydown/10
Projection: Beast mode
Longevity: Best mode.
05th January, 2020

Mortal Skin by Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777

This is one for the loquacious connoisseurs.
This is a nice office fragrance. It comes across slightly effeminate early to mid, amber vanilla becoming increasingly peppery with sandalwood and settling close to the skin. That's it.
Now , of course, if you look at the notes, you start thinking, wow! Of course! I can smell blackberry, iris, Myrrh, musk, how clever, I can really appreciate this.
However in the real world that is not what you will be thinking. In fact instead you will be crying with the knowledge you could smell a lot better for a lot less.
This is one for the Tate Gallery for the cognoscenti to admire in their own time at their own expense.
I have Nasomatto's Absinth on my other arm. Now you're talking! Expensive but unique great sillage and longevity and gives simple souls pleasure.

Fragrance: 4/10 considering the expense. Otherwise 6.5/10 at face value.
Projection: 6/10
Longevity: 8/10
04th January, 2020

Black Afgano by Nasomatto

Although there have been several searingly sad and needless casualties of Nasomatto's recent reformulations - read that as drastic dilutions (in Pardon's case almost to homeopathic proportions) there are two survivors.
The fabulous Absinth seems untouched and Afgano has been diluted into socially acceptable levels.
It is no longer unbelievably potent but is solid so that you can maintain a certain anonymity with one gentle well placed spray giving you a well behaved little halo of fragrance. One can finally and incredibly use the term 'subtle' with this fragrance unless you go for 2-3 sprays.
You can still smell the ahem 'herbal' component but its nicely blended in. At no point did I get the munchies! Green woody resin incense all combine to a sum greater than its parts.
Black Afgano is seemingly so important to the Nasomatto range that a lot of the spin off brand Orto Parisi from the accounts of other reviewers seems to use variants of Black Afgano as bases for its own fragrances.
It is also fairly linear and lasts for several hours.
I personally am not entirely sure about the herbal component and perhaps it just conjures up pictures of students pulling out little wraps of erm resinous herb and quite frankly at these prices this is not the best association.
That said it is what it is which is pleasant, comforting, relatively unique and certainly worth a sniff on your fragrance journey although I doubt this will be your final destination.

Fragrance: 7/10
Projection:7.5/10
Longevity: 8/10
02nd January, 2020

Baraonda by Nasomatto

Does anyone have an old pre reformulation sample they would like to sell?

Another disaster of the disgraceful Nasomatto watering down reformulation.
This is not strong at all now. You can see vestiges of brilliance. You still have all the notes , whisky woods rose musk beautifully blended and not sweet but its now horrifically emasculated. It is with great sadness I write this because unless this is reversed Nasomatto as a brand are defunct. I wonder whether a competitor bought them out and they are just raping customers of money until they run the brand into the ground. Duro and Pardon have suffered the same ignominious fate. Pardon and Duro are now even weaker than Baraonda. You can hardly smell Pardon after 15 minutes. In fact without specifically putting a warning on each reformulated bottle I wonder whether this is fraudulent. Any solicitors reading this please advise. I just bought a bottle of Pardon and quite frankly my tears have more scent in them.

Too upset to even complete with my normal rating system.
31st December, 2019

Overture by Amouage

This is a flaccid disappointment.
It is fairly linear and unexciting paradoxically moderate sillage but heavy. Wax and amber with minimal cognac. Sandalwood is definitely in the base and this with amber lasts the longest. I would normally have given this a neutral but to make it one of the most expensive Amouages with the least notes leaves the joke on us. Who do they think they are? Picasso?
Now that is my male perception. Could it be a compliment getter ? I hear you ask?
Well I am fit and was surrounded by pretty girls in the hot Yoga class and not one comment.
Enough said. Disaster on every front.
It reminds me of an inferior version of Roja's enigma which itself to my nose is fairly uninspiring and conjures up images of well dressed old men.

Fragrance: 6.75/10 -well its not a scrubber but at this price I would throw the brush at the bottle
Projection: 7.5/10
Longevity: 8.5/10 it even survived a heavy sweat and shower which actually improved it!
29th December, 2019

Absinth by Nasomatto

My first sniff of this was in the summer when I was looking for a non citrus non aquatic freshy which ended up being Creed Viking. I perchance came across my sample bottle on Christmas Day and smelt it again.
Excellent.
This is a backbone of wormwood round which vetiver and dark green notes have grown like vines feeding off it and morphing and fermenting into its character.

Without having smelt or tasted absinth this feels like the smell of a concentrated liqueur or more accurately the inside of an aged oak barrel reminiscent of craftsmanship of a bygone era where it has been stored for decades accruing ridiculous monetary value over which connoisseurs dote , holding fine cut crystal glasses filled with priceless liquid up to the light, sniffing, tasting, swilling, discussing.
This is what Nasomatto has bottled for us.
Rich without the over heavy musk of houses like Amouage. Incidentally imagine a sharp Interlude Man without the thick musky oudy treackle which gives it so much body it struggles to get up your nose.
This is not to say Absinth is not heavy but it is smooooooth as well as potent and delivers its punch dead centre to your olfactory senses not stopping there but going forwards into the depths of your soul.
It juxtaposes sweetness and sharpness and makes it suitable for daily wear rather than just evening that alot of Amouages are including Journey Man which used to be a favourite of mine but I tired of it because of its silken sweetness.
Absinth lasts several hours on my skin and it gives me pleasure without suffering olfactory fatigue that many strong scents cause.
Is that not a sign of true mastery, making it look easy?
Who is this for? Confident strong men who make a clean sharp statement. This is so good it will give you confidence and as they say you can fake it till you make it.


Fragrance: 8.5/10
Projection: 8/10
Longevity: 8/10


26th December, 2019
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Knize Ten by Knize

The reason this gets a neutral rather than a thumbs down is that it is in-offensive, in fact it smells clean but not really something I particularly like.
This is a cross between barbershop and an astringent soapy vibe.
In fact it is a more potent masculine version of Amouage Myths Man which comes across as distressingly metrosexual considering you get both men and womens' versions!

Fragrance: 6.5/10
Projection: 7.5/10
Longevity: 7.5/10
23rd December, 2019

Single Malt by By Kilian

This is indeed a Whiskey scent.
If you spray it on your neck you will walk around being aware of this subtle delicious smell. Its linear in this respect for a good 3 hours. However. If you put your nose close to your skin where of course you hope your partner's nose will be you get this skanky urinal vibe. Not pleasant at all.
Maybe that gives it the power to project and enjoy at a distance rather like an impressionist painting.

Imagine the scene though where you get a compliment and someone says wow what are you wearing and they lean forward to savour the smell and you've lost before you've even said a word! There is no coming back from that. So null points in fact penalty points for teasing us with a would be masterpiece.

Fragrance: 8/10 at a distance. But real life is different.
Projection: 8/10
Longevity: 7.75/10

Such a shame:
This really gets the projection right. You could pull it off day or evening as opposed to Frank Muller's excellent Conquistador which is a delicious Cognac scent but strictly evening only. I went to the gym and after a while it was so strong (one spray!!) it began to annoy me. That said spray it under your clothes and its more subtle.
21st December, 2019

Santal Nabataea by Mona di Orio

I agree with Purecaramel 100%.

This is a light fresh leaning to the masculine scent full of depth and nuance but without making a song and dance about it. Subtle and confident. Unique. Fairly linear and difficult to pick out individual notes . The sum is really greater than the parts. If you force me: blackcurrent leaf, oleander, sandalwood, sandstone and yes maybe vetyver. A really interesting scent. Invigorating and relaxing.
Such a quantum leap from the awful Vetyver by MdO I also reviewed today.

Scent: 8/10
Projection: 7.5/10
Longevity: 7.5/10
20th December, 2019

Les Nombres d'Or : Vetyver by Mona di Orio

I agree 100% with James1051.

For me the Floral makes this way too effeminate and also slightly cloying which comes in wafts. To charge so much for a Vetyver where I could not really make much out is playing loose and fast with poetic license and our wallets.
I also received a sample of Santal Nabataea in the post as well. Now you're talking!

Fragrance: 6.75/10
Projection: 7/10
Longevity: 7/10
20th December, 2019

Myths Man by Amouage

All I get is Chrysanthemum with a trace of ashes. Initially I was in two minds. Its actually a fresh fragrance with a bit of body to it but at one point I forgot I was wearing it then something started getting up my nose. It projects and lasts!
Can't be having that!

Fragrance: 6.75/10
Projection: 7.5/10
Longevity: 8/10
18th December, 2019

Anubis by Papillon Artisan Perfumes

This is a simple subtle honey and chocolaty woody scent, good longevity but stays quite close to the skin. If you like this kind of thing then it is outstanding. Not for me though.

Scent: 7/10
Projection: 6/10
Longevity: 7.5/10
16th December, 2019

Cap d'Antibes by Eight & Bob

If you want to smell of smoky peppery mandarin then this is it and its done very well indeed. It's fresher the further you are away and gets darker with increasing nasal proximity. I personally don't.

Fragrance: 7/10
Projection: 7.5/10
Longevity: 7/10
25th November, 2019

Nuit de Megève by Eight & Bob

This is coffee chocolate and musk with a few threads of tobacco and maybe vetiver. They are mixed so well that no single note dominates the character of the scent. It is fairly linear apart from a very transient bright opening.
This comes across as very well blended and smooth. Masculine yet subtle. A man who is confident in his identity and power and has no need to prove it.
It's message is subtle but clear and as such is very versatile. It could easily be a signature scent.
Well done Eight and Bob.

Fragrance: 8/10
Projection: 7.5/10
Longevity: 7/10
25th November, 2019

Rose & Cuir by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

This is a God awful heavily feminine cloying fragrance.
Leather and rose in the most wince inducing combination you can imagine. It starts off a bit too sharp so you think 'Phew, let's see if it settles maybe some room for a more subtle leather woody dry down'. Not a bit of it. Just becomes more dandy and drier.
There are some of us who would call it a work of art. One basenotes reviewer of new perfumes described it as his favourite FM ever. For me that goes Angeliques Sous La Plui and above that in the number 1 slot : French Lover.
However I have worked out how I can hold my head high if anyone mentions Rose and Cuir being a FM creation and say, don't be ridiculous its a female fragrance. If you like this kind of thing Boudicea the Victorious do their own much nicer one which is more subtle and frankly less offensive.

Fragrance: 4/10
Projection: 6/10
Longevity: 7/10
13th November, 2019

Ptah (new) by Ciro

Unusual for me to give two consecutive thumbs up but boy is this one good (the previous was Pavillion Rouge by Jovoy).
This has depth and freshness. It is fairly linear with a typical opening fizz. You can literally stroll round the notes. Bergamot , sage , ginger and take time to savour each one then take a step back and see the dots merge into a beautiful painting. Incense, Vetiver, Tonka , Leather are also there becoming increasingly powdery over time.Your senses pingpong between the greeness and the sweet incense.
But.
But.
Something is putting me off slightly, whether it is the Sage or Orris. I am not sure.
It is time to graduate to field testing!
Whatever the outcome I highly recommend trying this one out.

Fragrance: 7-8/10 pending field tests.
Projection: 7.5/10
Longevity: 8/10
13th November, 2019

Pavillon Rouge by Jovoy

Masculine not unisex. This is the best way of smelling like wearable whisky with a hint of freshness without being too boozy or
smelling of stale alcohol . Don't get the tea unless thats the freshness part . The faintest vanilla comes in later.
Unexpectedly nice but this is a bit of a one trick pony ie no backbone to give it depth and or longevity. Shame projection and longevity are exponentially worse in that order.
I am going to field test this and report back.

Fragrance: 7.75/10 lost marks for complexity and imagination
Projection: 7/10
Longevity: 6/10
13th November, 2019

Portrayal Man by Amouage

A scrubber.
The worst Amouage to date. What a shame. An effeminate chypre with a balsamic twist to the opening.
Enough said.
I received a decant of Davidoff Silver Shadow Altitude at the same time and prefer that. A lot more.

Fragrance: 6.5/10
Projection: 7.5/10
Longevity: 7.5/10
06th November, 2019

Beloved Man by Amouage

The thumbs up is as a result of my maturation on this forum showing my ability to appreciate something that is done very very well despite the fact I would not buy it. This is probably the best barber shop fragrance I have smelt. Deliciously refined and subtle which is unusual for Amouage quickly becoming slightly powdery and edgy, although back on form it projects and lasts well although bear in mind this is not beast mode, this is finesse. The edginess keeps it in the realm of day wear.
Sean Connery in polished brogues and a bowler hat springs to mind.
That said I have bought another decant maybe there is still room for further maturation.
If you want one for day and evening wear then Memoir Man is the way to go but this is beast mode. You can easily avoid the brutal mustiness described in another review by keeping it to ONE spray only. Two will get you noticed and three will clear the room.

Fragrance: 8/10
Projection: 8/10
Longevity: 8/10
20th October, 2019

Risqué pour Homme by Roja Dove

I thought long and hard about this one. It's almost there. I want to love it. But its just too feminine and sweet. There I've said it. Peach and incense. Projects strongly for a couple of hours, lasts 5-6 hours. Smells great on my wife, conversely no one likes it on me. Enough said.

Fragrance: 6/10 pour homme but if this were the femme version 7.75/10
Projection: 8/10
Longevity: 7.5/10
20th October, 2019

Oligarch by Roja Dove

This is just another darkish earthy orange cologne, just Roja's risibly expensive effort.
The true connoisseurs who meet secretly behind locked doors and try to out speak each other about their current object de nez and can detect exactly what post code an orange tree grew and when it was harvested may detect some subtleties here but they are not the ones likely to be able to afford this.
Stick with Cartier declaration or Hermes intense vetiver.
03rd October, 2019

Sharif by AbdesSalaam Attar Profumo

I do not know whether there are batch variations, but in the absence of samples I blind bought a bottle of this based on the reviews of fellow members. Where else do you get 100% love? Its unconditional acceptance, the secret of relationships. But. Only if its possible to accept.
This is basically marzipan. That's it. A couple of other whiffs circle in and out aaaaalmost making it masculine eg leather and woods but whiffs are fleeting and its a loosing battle. It is marzipan that is the indestructible presence. Phew.
If you like masculine and don't want to smell like an oriental spice box then my two favourites are:
Oakmoss: quintessentially woody masculine
Gringo: Masculine oriental and surprisingly fresh.
Honourable mention goes to: Seawood: the equivalent of Amouage Beach Hut Man.

Fragrance: 6.5/10
Projection: 7.5/20
Longevity: 8/10
28th September, 2019

Persona by AbdesSalaam Attar Profumo

This has been compared to the excellent Oakmoss and I can see why. Persona is gentler without that sharp Oakmoss hit and is simply a very nice woody oriental. And it lasts. Just when you think its worn off any hint of physical activity and it re ignites as if you just dabbed it on.
This is a solid 7.75/10. If only it had a bit more of a twist to it as it does run linear without that much complexity, something to be a yin to the woody yang this would have gone to 8.5. This is really what stops it becoming a signature fragrance. It is why I trounced poor old Tom Ford's Oud Wood. Persona is several orders of magnitude better than that frigid offering.

Fragrance: 7.75/10
Projection: 8/10
Longevity: 8.5/10
23rd September, 2019