Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Xaterian Stormrage

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Total Reviews: 53

Tobacco Vanille by Tom Ford

I fall for this every time it touches my skin: the smell is so wonderfully seductive it reminds me why I fell in love with fragrances in the first place.

Intoxicating dark sweet opening, big opening of vanilla and big blasts of tobacco in equal measure. The large overture dies down rather quickly and becomes more subdued, woody-honey-chocolate backdrops dance around adding to the yin and yang of sweet and dark. Coffee-tonka comes out a bit as well in the base as it dries down. The sweetness of the vanilla dies out as time goes on and this becomes much closer to a gourmand

The common complaints:

1.) Some may find this a bit linear: it doesn't have the depth of more niche fragrances. However, it is perfectly blended and smells so smooth that in my eyes that this isn't a weakness. It does what it does, and it does it well: it's a scent of dark-sweet sensuality.

2.) The scent is too sweet and cloying: and I can understand this complaint during the initial blast. However, the sweetness very quickly dries out and that blast of sugary vanilla becomes something much, much darker almost instantly. For 95% of its life, this has a dark sweetness.

3.) Another slight, and the one I somewhat agree with, is that it has below average longevity: 2-3 hours on my skin of decent projection, then a skin scent for a few more.

The headliner of Tom Ford scents, a definitive staple of every fragrance lover. Perfect for any time, but best for cooler nights and formal occasions. Pure excellence.

9.5/10
21st March, 2019

Slow Explosions by Imaginary Authors

Polarizing. The first spray is very strong, lots of alcohol and immediately dies down into saffron and leather. It's a strange combination-the dry mustiness of the saffron pushes against dark leathery notes in a way that is jarring. There is some apple here, lots of medicinal benzoin. It's dark and moderately heavy, powdery with dark floral notes of rose as well.

It's well-blended and unique. It defies categories. Is it an Oriental? It doesn't have much sweetness and the saffron isn't traditional: it doesn't have a categorical spiciness, per-se. It has some floral notes but it certainly isn't a traditional Floral scent. It smells like something you would wear at a non-traditional formal gathering. Projection is below average to moderate, longevity is a few hours until a skin scent.

Overall, I don't find it a particularly pleasant scent, but it does feel like it's a labor of love that is quite well layered and has complexity: those layers are just a bit too combative with one another for me. Close to a thumbs up but...not quite there.

6.5/10
20th March, 2019

Blackbird by Olympic Orchids

This comes out of the gates crashing, a strong initial blast of raspberry. This isn't subdued raspberry by any means: it's aggressive, punctuated by a deep woody backdrop. The blackberry smell, while pleasant, does seem to overtake everything else. I'm getting very brief notes of leaves and florals but it's hard to sort anything out past that strong overripe bitter-fruity scent. It's encompassing, and creates a very straightforward experience.

This goes from incredible projection for the first hour to something much more subdued during hours 2-5. Unfortunately, I'm still not picking up much else during the drydown either. It doesn't have as much longevity as others that I've tried from the Olympic Orchids brand.

6/10
19th March, 2019
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Coco Extreme by Comptoir Sud Pacifique

I'm not sure I need to go into much detail here: it's a very linear coconut-almond scent. Very, very light on the first spray: like a light suntan spray or something of the sort. I bring that up because it smells like a gourmand tropical island spray. It gets (very) slightly darker as it dries down, a bit creamier, vanilla notes join in to make this a full-out night treat.

It's a very pleasant smell, just nondescript and without complexity but very usable on a summer's night. Not overly abrasive in its sweetness but it smells very generic. Projection is eh, not much beyond a skin scent...and it's an EdT so it only lasts a few hours. However, it's not particularly expensive and it could be very good for a June-July night out.

6/10
19th March, 2019

Dodo by Zoologist Perfumes

A musky-fruit (lemon and lime, raspberry) combination for the first few minutes. This is a very nontraditional foguere, exactly what I'd expect from the Zoologist line. Rich, sweet at first but it's balanced out by the woodsy-oak base. Bears some (a lot?) of resemblance to Hummingbird-not quite as floral or as dark as Hummingbird, and more green than Hummingbird, but there are similarities in their composition. Rose and patchouli darken the notes out as a whole as the frag matures. This really shines as it begins to dry down...holy hell: I can picture myself on vacation, lying on a beach with lush fruit all around. The density that was there on initial sprays grows as it reaches its middle stages. The raspberry disappears a bit more but the lime stays steady and strong, adding a lovely tartness to the scent throughout until it dies down.

Projection is above average, longevity is very good. Complex, almost mysterious in its cacophony of notes: it's so well blended I hope this never goes extinct. I swore I wasn't going to buy another full bottle for awhile, I have so many unworn scents but this so, so good I can't avoid it with spring coming up.

9.5/10
18th March, 2019

Green Irish Tweed by Creed

This is a throwback: my very first cologne purchase, from a Roundy's grocery store in Wisconsin, was Cool Water. I remember it distinctly because I enjoyed its crisp aquatic smell. I would have to do test side-by-side to differentiate the nuances the two (which will never happen) as it has been many years since I've put it on. But if memory serves (which it only rarely does), this is very similar.

Pure greenery at the first spray: lots of iris, lemon from the start. A bit of background spice and amber as it starts to dry down. This is more flash than substance for me: very linear and unexciting. For the price, there isn't much unique or interesting here: perhaps this is the price for a fragrance so popular that its generic ripoff becomes a mass-market staple. Perhaps this is my personal experience but it smells very...1990's. It's a temporally fixed and, as such, it smells dated. Didn't I read somewhere that this is Clint Eastwood's favorite cologne? Sounds about right. During the dry down, and for me it dries down rather quickly, I get more citrusy-wood and rainwater. It's fresh, but the iris and violet give it a bit of density that I don't particularly care for-but others may.

3-4 ounces of this are $170-190. I would never pay that, there's nothing here that invokes anything of interest to me. Furthermore, it doesn't last all that long (3-4 hours) and never evolves into anything other than what it is from the get-go. It's a smooth enough blend that doesn't take me to the places I hope to go.

5.5-6/10
18th March, 2019

Beaver (2016) by Zoologist Perfumes

Bright and crisp, damp air and wood: this may be Zoologist's most exact embodiment of the spirit animal behind their fragrance. The musk is gently in the background, very light: the smell of vegetation is everywhere. It's transformative as if your consciousness in a pond or river. Upon first application, it's reserved but strong: sharp mineral notes of lilac and waterlily. On the drydown, leather comes out along with amber. It only makes it a bit darker, but the overall impression is one of lightness: no small feat for a scent with leather as many fragrances want to hit you over the head with their leathery vibes. Not altogether unlike its sibling fragrance Dragonfly, but with woody-resins. Of the two, I prefer this. I think, maybe it's recency bias. But this is so freakin good.

Zoologist has another wonderful scent here. This is a definite contender for a go-to springtime scent: there are so many fun nooks and crannies to their scents, depths and complexity that other houses could take a chapter from. Projection is light to moderate, longevity is 4-5 hours. Really good and a strong recommendation to purchase a full bottle...as I have!

9/10
16th March, 2019

Perry Ellis Oud : Black Vanilla Absolute by Perry Ellis

The opening is really stringent: when ClaireV said it's pure alcohol she wasn't kidding. It's rubbing alcohol for the first minute. After that, it settles into a synthetic oud that is...oddly pleasant. Is it a refined scent? No, it is not. There are no layers of complexity here that deserve unearthing. But I do find it to be gently, sweetly dark and kind of...appealing. Strange enough. It's the best part of the fragrance.

Powdery woody scent with notes of vanilla are gently dispersed throughout. The vanilla scent is fine...when you get it: but it's barely enough to pick up as it dries down. C'mon! If you're going to be a generic vanilla fragrance, at least throw with some heat. I got this on a recommendation from someone who called it an "underrated" vanilla scent: I'm finding this to be anything but the case.

All in all, this would be a very middling, run of the mill vanilla scent if it had some engine under the hood: the worst part is that there's very little projection at all, with moderate skin-scent longevity. The cost is cheap, the quality is cheap and....well, you get the gist.

4/10
16th March, 2019

Tyrannosaurus Rex by Zoologist Perfumes

Powerful peppery leather to start with: primally aggressive on first spray. Someone needs to domesticate this T-Rex for the first 45 minutes, it's too assertive on release and the only notes I can detect are leather, smoke and pepper. Very prehistoric in the way it asserts itself.

The drydown becomes much more relaxed: I begin to detect sweetness in vanilla and jasmine, along with dark rose florals. It balances it out as the smoke dissipates and the leather begins to smooth out. It makes the overall fragrance a lot more pleasant and enjoyable to wear while it slowly dies out.

This is very, very masculine: hyper-aggressive and very strong and smokey. Not a rich smoke, but a pure one: like liquid smoke in a bottle. The scent of pure smoke seems to be the du jour lately, in products from lines such as Kerosene and Imaginary Authors. For me, I find it mostly off-putting and here I find it nearly abrasive with the other notes.

Projection is very strong and longevity is above average: 8 hours on my skin (2-3 with strong projection) and counting. It's certainly a daring scent, I wouldn't expect anything less from Zoologist. If you're a huge leather-smoke enthusiast, go for it. For me, it's just too much beast to handle for the first 1/3 of the wear.

6.5/10
16th March, 2019

Camel by Zoologist Perfumes

Lots of balsamic dates and resin, powder and spices. Smells like Arabic sensuality, it's intoxicating. Like all Zoologist fragrances, it does a fine job invoking the image of the animal it is modeled after: hot and dry, steady and reliable. I say that with some reservation, as I find this to be the safest of the Zoologist I've smelled so far, and not necessarily in a good way. The drydown makes it a bit of a sweeter scent, tonka and vanilla rising to meet the top notes.

This is very unisex: I find it dry and woody enough to be considered masculine, while sweet and sensual enough to be feminine. The longevity is OK (5-6 hours, 2 hours as a skin scent) and the projection is just OK as well: below average for the line.

The bar is very high for Zoologist given their history, and I do believe this scent hits the mark: if you are expecting daring with this, however, you may be disappointed. The definition of a good "date night" scent, perfect for any occasion.

8.5/10

15th March, 2019

Lalique pour Homme Lion / Lalique pour Homme by Lalique

Lots of synthetic grapefruit and lavender-there's an uneasy undertone of cheapness to this, it's too artificial and grating for me from the get-go. There does appear to be some creaminess underneath but it's covered up by the cloying top notes. Dries down a bit and you get bit of wood, resin and a little bit of lavender-it's a bit all over the place and hard to pin down in the worst possible ways. It's a very powdery scent as well: it smells dated, much older than its actual birth. This is also in the worst possible way.

I didn't get anything outstanding about either the projection (which was light) or the longevity (3-4 hours, 2 hours as a pure skin scent). It's leaning masculine but with the variety of ways it can be interpreted, I'm sure any man/woman/cat/plant could wear it and smell...nondescript. Not expensive but why bother purchasing?

5.5/10
14th March, 2019

Méharées by L'Erbolario

Very smooth off the start: lots of creamy vanilla, cinnamon and bergamont. Hints of powder, tonka: slightly synthetic but only underneath the surface. I'm shocked this cost me so little.

The drydown adds dark rose and increases the smell the metallic undertone of the fragrance in a not entirely pleasant way. Unisex, projection is average to below average and longevity is about 3-4 hours on my skin. This scent is very intoxicating, if a bit straightforward. More suited for winter months and formal occasions.

7.5/10
13th March, 2019

H.M. by Hanae Mori

A powerful citrus opening, very sweet and creamy. Amazed this is strictly listed as a cologne and not a unisex fragrance. As it starts to dry down, you call smell the lavender and light vanilla come to the forefront. The lemon is a bit overpowering but calms down rather quickly to a quirky, upbeat spring-summer scent. Likely too sugary for some but it's well-blended. The drydown is the best part: cedar-woody notes come out and balance out the notes, as well as touches of chocolate to make an offbeat gourmand.

Projection is average after the aggressive opening, and longevity is good (4-5 hours) on my skin for the price: very affordable and with surprising depth.

7/10
13th March, 2019
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Salamanca by Olympic Orchids

Lots of leather and hay here: oof, is this strong from the get-go. It's a refined, natural leather but it is a POWERFUL leather scent. It's almost all I pick up for the first few minutes, a musky leather that I imagine is coming from the labdanum.

I'm picking up the smoke smell from the opoponax on first blast. This is dry, a bit powdery, and very powerful. This is more assertive than my liking, and I like a strong scent. It runs very masculine in my opinion, like a subdued bravado: I could see a woman wearing it if they like a more sophisticated leather.

The drydown brings out the sweetness from the opoponax and vetiver (minus much lemongrass). This scent projects above average and lasts above average (6-7 hours on my skin).

I don't love leather scents, but this is one of the best I've smelled to date. Very good, a sophisticated dark leather with complex notes and a light, sweet drydown to contrast. A bit aggressive from the get-go for my tastes but an excellent purchase.

8.5/10



12th March, 2019

Sonnet XVII by Olympic Orchids

This scent opens with a light yet strong musk, citrus and oakmoss. A rainwater-mineral floral, powdery with a woody backdrop. It's a vintage scent, inspired by the beautiful poem written by Pablo Neruda.

Orchid and amber come through after the first 15 minutes: the drydown increases the heaviness of the powder and also brings out a bit of spice from what smells like pepper. It leans heavily feminine, a soft scent: longevity is average (4 hours) and projection is light.

I find the notes muddled and overlapping: I believe this was likely the intention, to make it hard to pin down give its thematic relation to Neruda's poetry. For me, it also gives the scent a lack of definition. It has many notes listed but I don't find them telling a cohesive story: nor do I find it particularly interesting.

6.5/10
10th March, 2019

Mardi Gras by Olympic Orchids

Oooh. Musk, citrus and powdery soft vanilla come out in an intoxicating opening. On the surface, there's a light-heartedness to this fragrance: orange blossom and florals and an airy, celebratory sweetness. But lurking in the background, that animalistic civet and incense: darker avenues in the backdrop await underneath. Like breathtaking Bat, Ellen Covey has a complex multilayered scent that's a two sided coin: a regal traditional Oriental fragrance combined with dark, raw notes in the base. As it begins to dry down, the neroli comes forward with the orange to brighten it a bit as the party reaches its climax and masks are unveiled, with dark dry woody notes remaining throughout.

The longevity on this is good: 6-7 hours. The projection on this is above average as well. I'm not usually a fan of the family of powdery Orientals, but to limit this fragrance to such a compartmentalized definition would not do it the justice it deserves. Perfectly unisex and perfect for just about any occasion. So good.

9/10
09th March, 2019

Sartorial by Penhaligon's

A pastiche barbershop foguere through and through. A combination of natural lavender and oakmoss with green synthetic aldehydes and a spicy backdrop of pepper and cardamom. Given the "everything but the kitchen sink" notes listed, you would think this would be a bit of a mess: instead, the scent is much more linear and straightforward. As it dries down, the spiciness intensifies and the leather comes forward, with very gentle notes of honey and powdery vanilla.

Eau de Toilette fragrances are generally not my thing: the scent is far short-lived for me to enjoy. However, I find that they can be much sharper, more jagged and exciting while they are around. This is the case with Satorial: it doesn't project much and the longevity is 4-5 hours (2-3 as a skin scent) but it does have a lot of interesting bite.

It's a masculine scent, more retrograde than modern. I find this to be good for what it is: at $35 for 1 ounce bottle it should be in the collection of anyone who enjoys an interesting take on a barbershop scent. It's shockingly straightforward and a bit weak but it's a very nice ride while it lasts.

7/10
09th March, 2019

Italian Cypress by Tom Ford

This should never have been discontinued. Citrus with basil and lots of cypresses, a very clean woodsy scent with slight powder and mint in the backdrop. The definition of a fougere through and through, almost intensely strong and straightforward from first application. This is a scent that is trying to say something sensual when being let out of the bottle, a dark green force of sophistication. Projection is moderate and longevity is about 6 hours: it's a stylized workplace scent. Grey Vetiver is for the straightforward, run of the mill office worker: Italian Cypress is for the assertive male in management who has aspirations of ownership.

Drydown brings out the powder and herbal scent, becoming much more relaxed as it slowly dies down to a skin scent. Too expensive, like everything Tom Ford, but this is the private line scent you want for the workplace.

8/10
08th March, 2019 (last edited: 16th March, 2019)

La Nuit de L'Homme by Yves Saint Laurent

A lot of lavender and bergamont, a jagged yet not unpleasant opening. Strong citrus and amber as well, with lots of woodsy-cedar waiting in the background to round it out. A bit thick, too syrupy-sweet on the opening: artificial and synthetic, not for everyone.

As it dries down, it becomes more earthly, organic: a more lush vetiver. I enjoy the drydown and wish it projected more. Speaking of, the overall projection is above average, more than an arm's length and the longevity is a bit below average: 3-4 hours until it's a complete skin scent.

This scent is a young man's game: it's strong and assertive, trying to make a point and letting everyone know. Overall, I like the scent but the heaviness of its citrusy overtones and the overall synthetic nature of it makes me shy away from constant use.

6.5/10
08th March, 2019

Café Tonka by Laurence Dumont

Creamy, sugary tonka comes out from the start and takes the lead throughout: the scent itself is strong but airy for the first hour or two. Light spice in the background, hardly noticeable but adding a little bit of depth to what otherwise amounts to a very straightforward scent. There's much more vanilla tonka here than dark coffee-it's confectionary, a richer expresso. I love a nice gourmand, but this is too light and too nondescript for me: and that is coming from someone who, as my wife says, likes their coffee "froofy" (lots of sweet things). As it dries down, it becomes nothing more than a sugary skin scent.

I do enjoy the first few sprays, but with below average projection (a skin scent for nearly the entire duration) and longevity (4 hours, 2 of which are nothing more than a skin scent), this is hard to recommend. Unisex, leaning possibly a bit feminine but almost right down the line because it is a fairly bland scent. Not very expensive, so nothing lost.

5.5-6/10
08th March, 2019

Chergui by Serge Lutens

I need to expand my Serge Lutens collection. The opening of this is exquisite: light honey and whiskey notes coupled with rose, hay, and amber: a hint of powder but not enough to make it a primary element. Tobacco and hay come through more after the first 15 minutes, well-blended. It's gently sweet and light: I could wear this at any and all occasions. It is, unfortunately, a bit ephemeral: there is light to moderate projection and the sillage is 4ish hours. As the drydown occurs, it becomes lighter, straightforward/linear: hay and amber take the stage until the scent is gone altogether.

This is very good: unisex, leaning a touch masculine. For $55 dollars for 1.7 ounces, it's a wonderful scent that works in both formal and informal settings.

8.5/10

07th March, 2019

A*Men Pure Malt by Thierry Mugler

A very boozy-wheat opening with a backbone of citrus and fruit. A very linear scent, it doesn't seem to change much from first spray to the middle notes. This doesn't project as well as its brother flanker (Pure Tonka) nor do I find it as interesting. Projection is light to moderate on my skin, I'm just not getting any life out of this. Sillage is 5-6 hours but a good deal of that is it sitting as a skin scent. Elements of tonka and coffee come out in the dry-down, but not enough to do much to improve it overall, nor do they add any much-needed depth.

Simply too straightforward and not enough lasting power for me to recommend in any way.

5/10
07th March, 2019

L'Air du Desert Marocain by Tauer

A light smoke opening, incense and spice on first application: the scent is very light, very airy. Woody-powdery notes come in the background after 10 minutes, hard to detect at first but become more prominent as time goes on. I'm really not getting much projection: unless I'm actively looking for the scent, I can barely detect its presence. I added extra application to make sure I It does last awhile as a purely skin scent, however: a solid 7-8 hours.

It's more masculine than feminine: enjoyable and well blended, but it lacks any projection on my skin. Very expensive, for me it's not worth it but I could see wearing it on cooler spring days. The cedar and vetiver basenotes are very good, a delicate spiciness: but there isn't enough, for me, to justify a full bottle purchase.

6/10
06th March, 2019

Aoud Melody by Montale

One of the better offerings from Montale that I've sampled, although it still comes some of the blemishes that are to be expected from the line. The metallic-synthetic burst on initial spray here is toned down compared to their other offerings, although it's still prevalent. Amber, rose and leather are well-rounded as top notes. The leather is powdery and pleasant, just a bit artificial. Oud is a component, obviously given the name, but it's not dark. This fragrance would be fine on cooler spring and fall days, as well as in winter months. Given the heavy-handed nature of their fragrances, I find this one light and soft.

The drydown brings out cloves and incense, as well as slightly floral notes such as jasmine: this is the most sophisticated fragrance I have smelled from the company. It's well named and, overall, well done. The longevity is good (6-7 hours), although the projection is a bit light.

7-7.5/10
06th March, 2019

Red Aoud by Montale

I find something very offputting about the first stage of Montale's fragrances: the initial sprays are so synthetic, harsh and abrasive that it discolors the entire experience. It's very unenjoyable. Nowhere in the line is there a bigger offender than Red Aoud. The opening metallic blast (Iso-E-Super?) overshadows everything for a solid 15-30 minutes, and ultimately it dries down to a more enjoyable chocolate-dark floral combination. I don't find there to be anything special about the drydown, it's very typical of a chocolate-rose combination scent, which can be found in any line without the wretched opening. Speaking of, that metallic scent doesn't completely disappear at any point: it lingers on as a note concurrent with the powdery-rose overtones.

It projects plenty (above average), although longevity is nothing special: 4 hours tops on my skin. Rumors of days-long lasting power don't ring true for me, speaking perhaps to a reformulation. Who knows. Thankfully, I can wash it off of my skin. Leans masculine overall.

Rather expensive for something that smells remarkably cheap: save your money for better things.

4/10
05th March, 2019 (last edited: 06th March, 2019)

L'Art et la Matière : Tonka Impériale by Guerlain

A delicate blend of tonka and almond, it seems almost paradoxical to have such a subdued opening with such a creamy, rich gourmand. Florals sit politely in the backdrop in a haze of light, powdery airiness. It's slightly woodsy as well, adding depth and complexity. Very well blended, the drydown (after about an hour) becomes sweeter, more luscious: light jasmine-amber scents come more to the forefront.

Long lasting, I'm getting a solid 7-8 hours on my skin. The projection is very light: it's largely a skin scent throughout. I find it to be very unisex, the epitome of it actually. The price for this scent is steep: it's hard to give a strong recommendation at hundreds of dollars for a bottle, but it is very good. Perfect, in my opinion, for all seasons: in the winter coolness and the summer breezes. Buy some if you have the financial means to do so.

7.5-8/10
05th March, 2019

18.21 Sweet Tobacco by 18.21 Man Made

18.21 opens up sweet and dark: red wine and honey, with bits of citrus and, as the name suggests, a good amount of tobacco. Tobacco and honey take the lead on for the first few minutes: however, powdery-woodsy notes balance it out to make sure it doesn't come across as cloying at any point. Tonka helps round it out even further: it's very well-blended. The drydown doesn't add much to the equation: the red-wine scent becomes more prominent, as does its powdery base, as the honey evaporates. I find it a bit less pleasant as time progresses, becoming a bit too boozy for my tastes as the other notes dissipate. Dries down to a skin scent in about 4-5 hours.

Longevity is good (5-6 hours) and projection is moderate to good. It is similar to A*Men and its flankers, although I think I prefer this to any of those offerings. If you like sweet tobacco, this should be in your collection. Even if you do not, it should be at $60-65 for 3.4 ounces for value alone.

7.5-8/10
05th March, 2019

Tom Ford Noir Extreme by Tom Ford

This is as good as many of what I've tried in his private blend at twice the price. Strong, sensual vanilla with a powdery-woody background-cardamom and nutmeg combine to make this a lovely gourmand. After the first few minutes, the florals slowly rise to the stage: light rose, jasmine and bits of amber come to combine to make this one of the more complex Tom Ford scents. The drydown, sadly, comes quick: I only get a few hours of moderate projection and sillage is 4-5 hours, tops. The scent becomes decidedly less complex by the end, the florals disappear to just vanilla and amber and then it disappears.

Hyperstylized, as all Tom Ford scents are, this seems perfect for a romantic date night. Very unisex, any man or woman would be able to pull this off. I like this a great deal, one of my favorites from the line: a non-traditional (hard to say that phrase with Tom Ford) gourmand with, sadly, very typical performance from the line.

7.5-8/10
04th March, 2019

Aramis by Aramis

This is a review for the concentree version.

Amber, citrus and florals come out from the start: a light musk overhangs it all. Aldehydes for days. I think this may be the antithesis of a chypre. A natural leather comes through as but not at the forefront: it's mixed in well. I wouldn't call this a leather-prominent scent, it's lighter than that with bits of sweetness. Still, it's a masculine scent: no doubt about it. While it may have citrus in it, there's too much musk lurking around to consider it even unisex. While this may have been popular in the 1970s and 80s, I wouldn't consider it a relic. Do I find it oudated? No: however, I am not sure what an ideal time for it would be. A springtime walk with a significant other? Maybe, but it's a bit aggressive. Going to an outdoor sporting event? Just don't spray too much of it and piss everyone off around you. It's got the potential to be VERY cloying with overuse.

Projection is above average but not nuclear by any means. Sillage is...not great. 4-5 hours for me and then there's almost nothing left but an almost...Mountain Dew...scent? I do wish I got more sillage out of it (Concentree doesn't boost the sillage for me), but I paid only 35 dollars for a 3 ounce bottle at the time of writing the interview so I don't expect miracles.

Ultimately it's a good herbal chypre that can be cheaply purchased albeit with some flaws. At the very least, get a small bottle of this, my fellow parfumer: inhale a part of the olfactory pantheon and a uniquely historical scent that brought us here.

7/10
04th March, 2019

Bat by Zoologist Perfumes

Designed by Ellen Covey, this scent is....it's just remarkable. Truly, whenever I examine it I'm at a loss for words.

Initial smells of dark, damp earth mixed with overripe fruit, headlined by banana: it somehow manages to be stringent and demanding yet light. The tartness of the musk and fruit are mellowed by the faint smell of fig in the background. It's such a demanding scent, something modern and incredibly unique. Zoologist always attempts to capture the spirit of an animal in their scent, and nowhere is it done any better than with bat: an animal many fear, dark and elusive, musky yet delicate. The drydown takes the edge off the musk and brings to the forefront the smell of ripe fruits and vetiver. It goes from demanding to alluring in the space of several hours, and I like both stages equally.

Conventional fragrance abounds: it is rare that I get to smell something that stands apart so uniquely from its competitors that I am taken aback. This is truly the case with Bat: I have never smelled anything like it. It's a very modern, very strong scent that should be in anyone's wardrobe that is daring enough to try it. For a powerful man or woman.

Strong sillage and longevity. People can smell it on you, I had many people throughout my day asking what I was wearing. The longevity is in the realm of 8 hours, which is very long on my skin.

True excellence.

10/10
03rd March, 2019 (last edited: 06th March, 2019)