Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Jay-Lux'eau

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Total Reviews: 32

Aqua Universalis by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Slightly gourmand from the bergamot lily combo.

That's probably only the case if you're familiar with a central European candy called guimauve bergamote. That's also true for Petit Matin by the way and others in the MFK line.

I mean come on Francis, you're selling at double sometimes over triple the price of non-niche designer retail products and then make multiple products smell like guimauves bergamotes? Really?

What else to say about this one... Musky woods base yes, gives the wearer a clean and pleasant smell. If that smell is worth 155 USD/70ml though... No it's not!
27th August, 2019

Lalique pour Homme Lion / Lalique pour Homme by Lalique

It's a classic smelling fragrance. I have the EdP but I read here that it should be similar to the EdT, only more performant.

I would never have guessed that it has that many notes in it as are described here. You need to imagine it way simpler than that. I've owned this for over 15 years and it hasn't change one bit.

To sum it up it's a classy, animalic base of musk with hedione. Mandarin? Grapefruit? Nope, citrus maybe, slightly metallic as it's from hedione. And hedione jasmine.



22nd August, 2019

The One Sport by Dolce & Gabbana

Fresh aquatic that sadly has a vinegar like smell somewhere in the background. It's not prominent but I didn't like it.

This was on skin as well as on a test strip and from the bottle nozzle. I tried it in a perfume store.
06th August, 2019
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Le Mâle In The Navy by Jean Paul Gaultier

Forgettable flanker even though it does deliver. And that's coming from a real Le Male fan.

The Le Male DNA is only slightly present in here in the form of the mint, vanilla and possible other similarities in the marine accord used (e.g. lavender).

However, Le Male in the Navy is a very appropriate flanker as it's well positioned in the current market craze of marine meets ambergris/ambroxan but there are better alternatives.

06th August, 2019

La Nuit de L'Homme by Yves Saint Laurent

It's pleasant. I mean how can it not be. A coumarin sweetness and aromatic cedarwood. The top notes fade fast though so La Nuit de l'Homme in the end is mainly about the coumarin and wood. Some amber too.

However, it will not differ that much from any other lower ranking EdT that packs the same notes. We used to have a fragrance from Garnier here that was close to this but it's been discontinued for over a decade. Maybe YSL bought it?

If anything, going by the scent alone then price wise it should sit just slightly above the highest priced (non-designer) drugstore fragrances (Garnier, Daniel Hechter and the likes). I say above, because it does still come from YSL. But it's priced at 70EUR/80USD here for 100ml?

That's too expensive for this tier of scent. There is for example a fragrance from another Yves (Rocher) that has similar notes but sells for 50'ish USD/100ml. It's been a while since I've smelled it though but I remember it was going for around 20 USD even 10-15 years ago.

05th August, 2019

Obsessed for Men by Calvin Klein

At first smells like a more peary version of Ultra Male. You get pear, patchouli and that blackness of vanilla.

There pear note is potent in here even though it's not listed. It's also not that nice unfortunately when you focus on it. As opposed to how it's done in Gaultier's Ultra Male.

More bad news: Obsessed has a big lack of foundation in the drydown. Patchouli and Black Vanilla just disappear. The base is exclusively Blonde Leather to me. Not a bad note but there's absolutely nothing backing it up.

So all in all it's not that good and it's not that cheap either.

05th August, 2019

Spicebomb by Viktor & Rolf

Fresh and fruity at first. The opening is very nice which is a rarity for me. You get the Bergamot but also a tropicalness that keeps you coming back for more.

Gets spicy further on in a nice way. Then out come the basenotes when the spicyness starts mellowing down. Do note that it doesn't have any real (dirty) Leather which may disappoint some but I can live with it.

In the drydown the Elemi is the strongest. It's piney but not lemony (as opposed to i.e. MFK Amyris Homme). Second strongest note is a light, blonde Tobacco. Still that doesn't explain this sweetness that's present and which I thought was Tonka Bean but since it's not listed it may come from an accord they use for the leather note, one that definitely doesn't contain oakmoss.

It might actually be the same leather accord that Zara uses in its Gourmand Leather. That would explain the lack of (dirty) Leather in it.
05th August, 2019

Wow! by Joop!

Packs a punch at first from the cardamom/geranium/violet combo. Not sweet at all at that stage and very forgettable, classical smelling.

The drydown is better but at the same time a bit uninspiring, plain. You see, in the end it becomes a sweet tonka and cashmeran mix. 2 notes. Top and hearts notes really disappear completely.
05th August, 2019

Joop! Homme by Joop!

Has a new bottle meanwhile that blends in with the competition, what's inside however has remained the same I'm guessing.

I like a bit of controversy but I can't bring myself to like this one. It is difficult to dissect but here's my analysis: very strong peppery patchouli meets very sweet honeysuckle.

All the rest are background notes to me but combined they give an incensy vibe which patchouli and honeysuckle are sitting on top of.

Honestly, it can't be worn anywhere but in the comfort of your own home and for experimental purposes. Actually, you could mistake this for an interior perfume!
05th August, 2019

Prada L'Homme by Prada

Peppery, soapy, fresh edT. No pepper listed so that must be some spicy patchouli. Classic Italian. Expected more soapiness and uniqueness to make it compete with the Gaultier line.
05th August, 2019

Sauvage Eau de Parfum by Christian Dior

The regular Sauvage beats this newer one in my opinion.

Sauvage EdP is a less sharp, more mellow, blunted version of Sauvage EdT. It makes it more gourmand as well which will please a lot of folks. That's the anise in front riding on a faint vanilla.

The fragrance is not loud at all unlike what some people mention. The pepper isn't noticeably there, neither is the nutmeg.

The anise is though and it lingers on for ages which is a nice modificition but I would have like other notes in stead as I'm not that into anise. Maybe vanilla, tonka bean and a hint of some tropical fruit would've done it for me.

The anise covers the DNA of Sauvage EdT as if it were a blanket. Nevertheless, Sauvage EdP's longevity is better than the EdT. So despite some minuses, I wil not rate it lower than the EdT, but also neutral.

05th August, 2019

Sauvage by Christian Dior

Clean scent, has the aquatic attitude but not from calone or the likes, it's coming mainly from the geranium and lavender. But fortunately not overdone as is the case in Versace Eros for example.

Geranium/geraniol and Ambroxan are the main notes of Sauvage. The rest helps to add to the nice marine boucquet which is fresh rather than spicy but there is that small amount of spice backing it up.

Not bad at all but not in line with all the hype and marketing. It could easily have been made to be more versatile or complicated, pushing it to 'positive' territory for me.

As is however, I'm neutral. I do like the novelty though of its usage of Ambroxan, which is pleasant.
05th August, 2019

Invictus by Paco Rabanne

This is quite good. The animalicness in here(ambergris, oakmoss) is done in such a raffined and subtle way that it just gives a whole new dimension to aquatics, which is laudable.

It's a initially fresh and fruity aquatic that's tweaked to something you can't really put in normal aquatic/marine territory anymore. I was gonna rate it neutral but I think this might be one of those that will be praised for its innovativity in the distant future.

ps: do not go by clones even if they list the exact same notes. Because the ones I've smelled are nowhere near the original, they tend to use very animalic smelling stuff that's horrible when paired with a marine accord.
02nd August, 2019 (last edited: 05th August, 2019)
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Aqua Vitae by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Smells like a more modern, less harsh, less animalic take on Lalique pour Homme.

What some describe as metallic is the hedione that's in here in its racemic form. To me it smells like a synthetic citrus with a clean muskiness, florals that don't come from actual flowers, some rubbing alcohol, and a slight metallicness.

Thanks to Aqua Vitae I now recognize that it's also hedione that's in Lalique pour Homme even though that one doesn't explicitly list it but lists jasmine and citrus in stead. Which hedione can all mimic.

The ingredients are all very subtle and smooth as only Kurkdjian does it. Only disappointment once again is that he's so keen on classical perfumery for his own house, disregarding contemporary except to tweak classical into something that's easier to wear. At least for as far as I've sampled his MFK line.



26th July, 2019

Aqua Celestia by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Big disappointment. The opening makes you think it might be the interesting niche mix you would expect but with the top notes gone in seconds it's just not the case. And what I feared became true.

A certain plant note potently prevails: Mimosa. I've never smelled it before, but it's obnoxious to me. Meanwhile in the background: a mojito made with rubbing alcohol in stead of drinking alcohol.

It's awful. Ended up washing it off.

Maybe for a woman who specifically likes Mimosa. Other than that Aqua Celestia just has no place in perfumery.

16th July, 2019 (last edited: 30th July, 2019)

Jimmy Choo Man Ice by Jimmy Choo

There's definitely similarity to Tommy by Hilfiger but this is fresher, less complex and more of a mass appealing scent.

The main notes for me are lemon (cedrat), musk, moss, wood and vetiver. The base is not at all leathery just for the record. I'm saying that because musk and moss are listed but these are very light and clean. I get why they named it Man Ice.

It's a safe scent that's constant from the beginning onwards and will please many.
01st July, 2019 (last edited: 30th July, 2019)

Jaguar Classic Black by Jaguar

Not a black scent as the bottle would have you expect.

The main note is the marine accord. Other than some musk I can't make out much else. I liked it when applied on a test strip, it remained a constant, mature aquatic.

On skin however it's a different story for me. Fades away very fast. And more concerningly, before fading away it started smelling sour which was very unpleasant.
01st July, 2019

Tabac Original by Mäurer & Wirtz

Tabac is old school. Not bad but gives off a too-much-ingredients vibe. To me similar to potpourri, baby powder or skin cream. Lanvin does this too with Arpège but somehow that gets away with it in the feminine spectrum.

The pepper and muskiness that do surface save it.

I rate it neutral in this day and age yet it does particularly suit men aged 50+ going for classical. Which is also Tabac's main client base. Would rate it neutral to positive for them.
16th June, 2019 (last edited: 16th July, 2019)

Lee Cooper RDLC for Men by Lee Cooper

Unique bottle I must say. The fragrance however is in the sports brand EdT tier but priced higher.

Which is overpriced for a sweet + synthetic fragrance.



16th June, 2019

Black Soul by Ted Lapidus

A sweet Paco 1 Million like base but done in a more natural smelling way.

Comes across more mature thanks to that as well as the added spices and how prominent they are. Too pungent at first in fact but they get better once settled.

Let's say that if 1 Million never existed and this would've had marketing like 1 Million, it could have gotten similar acclaim.

As is, it would need to either be A: less sweet or B: priced lower to win me over(35 EUR here at the moment).
16th June, 2019

Pour Un Homme by Caron

Sharp and sour green herb mixture and vetiver is the opening. I get lemongrass too, not lemon and the other listed citrus fruit.

Lily of the valley and a faint, struggling lavender from the combination with the heart notes. Didn't wait for it to develop further.
16th June, 2019

Grand Soir by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

This is a projection monster. Fills up a house immediately with 1 spray, even if applied at very close range. The opening is actually to be avoided because of how strong it is. For me personally also because it's super classical at first. Reminds me a lot of a classic Lalique.

It has a predominant incense like note. I think it's the labdanum. Amber is the second most prevalent note. You would never expect vanilla to be able to still pop up but it does. Maybe it's added in the benzoin and it's because of that. As a whole, my initial thoughts were that the scent would just be out of place everywhere.

I should have paid more attention to the label though: Grand Soir. Indeed that's where it would fit in and could shine: A theatre, a packed classy restaurant or a classical concert. As the fragrance developed it grew on me.

Apply wisely.

12th June, 2019

Adidas Extreme Power Special Edition by Adidas

Not bad for a cheap EdT. Would rate it positive even if we were rating within that segment only here. Quite elaborate too. Not your average sports brand scent. It's that rare find you come across when trying hard to find cheap gold in your local drugstore.

Youthly, sweet, fresh, sporty, soapy. Pale woods in the background and up front is an unusual, non gourmand sweetness that keeps dominating. Maybe it's the Galbanum partnering with Coumarin.

It by far beats all their other fragrances I've tried (Dynamic Pulse, Ice Dive, Team Force, ...). Warning: it does get synthetic if you focus on it, probably some notes or accord Adidas uses.

Over here it mostly got discontinued a couple of years ago. I wonder why.

11th June, 2019

Petit Matin by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

The main opening note is orange blossom. Plus a vague Lily of the valley.

Must be the May chang (Litsea cubeba). 20 minutes in, it's this note that overtakes the orange blossom. It's like a citrusy lily of the valley.

A little bit of very refined musk at the base. There's a slight freshness throughout from the remaining notes, which is the only role they play.

Well put together but for me this one is a negative for men unfortunately. And I'm definitely not a typical 'black' fragrance fan saying that. Petit Matin doesn't just go towards feminine to land in unisex, it's in feminine territory to me. Less so after several hours but still.

On a woman, I would rate it neutral.
10th June, 2019 (last edited: 11th June, 2019)

Encre Noire by Lalique

The initial blast is very ethereal. It becomes less offensive but it stays put. Not like the usual perfumer's alcohol that still has to evaporate. It's more like a whiff of a VOC with hidden in there the wood notes of this fragrance.

I see now that it's probably the combination of Cypress, Cashmere wood and Bourbon Vetiver.

Hours later it still has this working with wood and turpentine feel to it for me.
10th June, 2019

Lanvin L'Homme Sport by Lanvin

Better than the original, obnoxious Lanvin l'Homme. Softer and not as much pepper with a more suitable base therefore much easier to wear.

Nice lemon scent on top that either is or comes across as real lemon.

Good casual fragrance. Not bad but not exceptional at the same time.
10th June, 2019

Eros by Versace

Tried it in a store after seeing it being hyped by youtubers recently.

It's a good aquatic but in a way it's sort of like a glorified Axe/Lynx product. You know, the blue/marine/aquatic ones like Marine, Apollo and Click. Eros is a lot like the shower gels of aforementioned. Which is not a bad scent and back in my teens I always thought Axe's shower gels actually smell better than their body spray counterparts.

That's what Versace Eros is to me, a very good aquatic shower gel scent (although done more naturally) with the longevity of an EdT. Would have loved this as a youngster in the late 90's but it smells dated now.

Need to mention this one's stingy on the Ambroxan to me, keeping it from entering that Sauvage and Invictus vibe that's currently marketed as being the best and most modern way to smell.

Minty and aquatic, barely perceivable leather. Coumarin and geraniol like Axe/lynx only not as much of it.
09th June, 2019 (last edited: 16th June, 2019)

Acqua di Giò Profumo by Giorgio Armani

Compared to the original:

Less clingy but still lingers on for ages after applying. More citrusy but that initial blast thereof comes across very synthetic. To the point where it even gets a cheap lemon air freshener vibe for a while. Luckily this dies down in about a half an hour.

The end result is a better, fresher version. Think of the original Acqua di Gio but with a tad of fresh, rubbed herbs and lemon(grass) mixed in. Maybe it's the combination of the sage, incense and bergamot?

Would've left a positive rating but I can't because of the overpowering synthetic citrus smell at first. Afterwards, it is however better than the original to me!
09th June, 2019

Arpège by Lanvin

Blind bought this as a gift, based on the impressive list of notes here on Basenotes.

Was told it smells like a mix of Moschino (Moschino) and Chanel No.5.

Judging by the notes of all 3, this seemed right but I was fearful of it resembling Chanel No.5.

Upon smelling it myself I was pleasantly surprised that it didn't. And was able to confirm for myself that it's due to its absence of civet.

Not a fan of classic fragrances like this one and Moschino because they're quite elaborate causing me to get a too-much-ingredients vibe from them rather than being able to identify the individual notes. They also remind me of some perfumed powders, skin creams and balms I smelled as a kid. So not modern at all, but still, I can appreciate this one for what it is.
02nd February, 2019 (last edited: 16th July, 2019)

Lanvin L'Homme by Lanvin

Blind buy. The aquaticness in it is OK but as a whole it's too orangy and at the same time too spicy.

The intense blasts of pepper are off putting.

Even if this would be toned down, it would lack the citrus that suits this genre of fragrances. The more recent 'Lanvin l'Homme Sport' is better in this regard.

Other than that this one's just too rough of a mixture.

The notes are too contrasting and there's nothing there too make them blend in with eachother better. I don't get any vanilla nor lavender at all nor could it have saved it. Not for me, more for those with a love for pungent. Or those with crude taste.

The 'Sport' version is more mellow and a bit better all round.
02nd February, 2019